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I got rid of this machine probably 3 years ago and am currently running a Crossfire XR. I don't believe I have the wiring diagram anymore, but Langmuir sells an upgrade kit for the original table that is quite cost-effective...

@@joshuazimmerman8631 Thank you 🙏

The controller does not have 32 buttons so in JoyToKey, button 32 is a virtual button that I get to define as a left mouse click at a certain coordinate. Because it is a virtual button I can assign it to be called from several different physical buttons on my controller without reprogramming the mouse click coordinates. One of the things I missed in my video is showing how to right click on the button field and choosing different things to put in the box...

@@joshuazimmerman8631, Thank you, I did just find the Right click/ scroll to buttons, and find the button

I need to find a moment to do this....

@@joshuazimmerman8631, please, I have the controller in my Amazon cart, but im afraid I wouldnt be able to get it going, haha. what program did you use? anti micro mapper?

@@mattglandorf9600 The program is called Joy to Key

I did find that one, I sprung for the controller, and ive started mapping the basics buttons, I have no idea how you did the Jog speed, home or zero, go to last zero, or close the dialog box

@@mattglandorf9600 I sat down to make a video of this this evening and then promptly got completely distracted.... I'll make one soon...🫣

This video was on my OG Crossfire 2 x 2... When I upgraded to the Crossfire Pro, I no longer needed the sensor holder because it came with IHS and torch height control. The machine in this video still has the sensor holders on it...

@@joshuazimmerman8631 Thanks for the reply. I am in the process of making one, I posted a video of the holder that i plasma cut today.

Yes, it would work on your PRO just the same....

It's not extremely difficult... I started by just programming a few shortcuts and then realized that it would be capable of so much more. There's a little bit of trial and error involved. Maybe I should do another video where I show how I did it?

@@joshuazimmerman8631 I would like to see that.

I'd also like to see a video of this as well. Definitely would like to be able to zero all axes, go to xy zero, and one button stop/start.

This machine has been in continuous service and used nearly every day since this video was uploaded. In that time frame, I have never replaced a gantry bearing or had one go bad on me. It is my opinion that the people that have gantry bearings fail, have the bearings drawn up too tight to the rail and don't allow for the inconsistencies of the tube. This table works as good today as the day this video was recorded. Absolutely no complaints!

@@joshuazimmerman8631 awsome, rank you!!! I have one on the way, so I was curious

The question is why not? 😁

My Crossfire Pro still works hard everyday... Impressive machines for the money...

Yes I still have the very machine in this video. It runs everyday.

Looking to get my a table. Traveling is getting old. Plus me and the wife have a retail buzz already. I can add to it with plasma cutting.

1/2" I typically run at 45 inches per minute. A 65 would be a bit slower than that.

@@joshuazimmerman8631 my hypertherm book calls for 30ipm , but i'm not getting that. If i cut that fast, it doesn't cut completely thru at times. Could i also ask your kerf width your running? thanks

@@georgejenkins3240 My kerf on 1/2" is .084". If you are struggling with cutting the whole way through I would make sure that your ground is very good and your cut height is not too high. I like my cut height at .055"

@@joshuazimmerman8631 thanks, my kerf is set the same, but i'll have to check the height.

It is free floating....

AR500 generally runs at least 2X the cost of A36 plate. It can be as high as 3X. The quick checking I just did comes out closer to 3X currently...

I ran the program with old consumables first to pierce all the places and then I put in new consumables and re-ran the program with almost no pierce delay since the holes were already there. Probably a MAG drill would be a better idea if you knew exactly every place it was going to pierce.... But typically I have old consumables laying around that work pretty well as sacrificial items for this type of job.

@@joshuazimmerman8631 Thanks! I guess you can program the torch to stop after piercing?

@@johnw4590 I would just manually pause the program, clean the dross off the top, and then resume the program at the next pierce point.

I just used a small cordless Milwaukee die grinder with a carbide bit. Very controllable and made short work of it...

​@@joshuazimmerman8631 Thanks a lot. I had to look up the tool, never heard of it. I want to copy you because your panel cut out is so professional. I would guess you have looked at just about every way to cut holes in 16 gauge metal. I have been looking at the Versa Drive step bit cutters that use an impact wrench. Which might be great for parts of the panel you can't set on the CNC table. And the power knockout set by Milwaukee (forcelogic) I will keep coming back to this video it is that good.

Also Milwaukee has some impact hole saws that I watched a video on.

Yeah I've had complaints about the sound... I'm definitely not a videographer and don't have the proper tools for the job...😁 I just filmed this on a Pixel smartphone... Maybe one day I should get a GoPro...

@@joshuazimmerman8631 thanks

I have personally used the 45 XP and it is an amazing machine for its size!

@@joshuazimmerman8631 Thanks

I have since moved up to a Langmuir Crossfire Pro with THC. I'm still using the same plasma though. And yes I would still recommend this setup. It lives in a pretty harsh environment and doesn't get much love and it has never let us down.

@@joshuazimmerman8631 I watched like 20 more of your videos, and eventually saw that in the comments. Thanks for the content, very nice work.

@@KMLTimesTwo I would definitely do more videos I would have the time. I actually have the new XR table in a crate just waiting to be assembled...

The second power supply was to provide 24 volt DC for control power for the probes. As far as the position of the dip switches on the stepper driver, it's been too long ago and I don't have that machine in the shop anymore so I don't know with certainty, but if my memory serves me correctly I don't remember messing with them...

Loud shop environments can be challenging, especially if you're sharing it with other people...

Yes, the FineCut consumables at 45 amps do very little damage to the paint..

With a Hypertherm 85, you should be able to set your pierce delay around one second on half inch steel... I'm glad you like the videos, I just don't have very much time to make more....

I vary my lead-ins and lead outs depending on my hole size. Typically I like a small radius to get similar effect as an over cut....

I always run 85 amps unless I'm doing very thin material or using fine cut consumables. As far as air flow, shop air is at 120 PSI and I let the internal regulator of the Hypertherm 85 take care of the rest.

No, the 45 XP is a very capable machine. The 85s advantage is only in thick metals. We cut mostly half inch and up so a 45 would be a bit underpowered...

@@joshuazimmerman8631 Perfect, thanks for the reply! I am looking for the highest precision I can get to cut aluminum instrument panels.

Yes, it's the largest plasma available for 240v single phase.

Yes I have many different stencil fonts installed on my computer and if you pay attention to the type of font, they will show up in Fusion 360. The font you see here doesn't have any manual bridging done...

@@joshuazimmerman8631 I assume these are downloaded in addition to the default fonts on 360.....or am I just not seeing them in the font library?

@@Welder6131 Yes I scoured the internet for free stencil type fonts that I could download and install on my Windows machine. It seemed that, for every three that I would find, two were unusable or otherwise did not work. The type of stencil lettering I'm really after just needs to be very legible from a long distance, so all the drippy, droopy, curvy, artsy stuff doesn't work all that well for my needs.

In my opinion, they are absolutely worth it for lettering and so forth. They can only be used at 45 amps max, and a maximum material thickness of 10 or 11 gauge. I use them whenever I can.

@@joshuazimmerman8631 Good to know, i see a lot of people using them for art, signs, etc but never truly knew if they did that well of a job compared to standard electode and tips. I appriciate your videos on the Langmuir and hypertherm, they are by far the best on YT.