- Видео 82
- Просмотров 38 410
Mac's TR3 Revival
США
Добавлен 25 май 2006
Description
ABOUT ME:
Hi! I am JP from Mac's Tr3 revival. This is my attempt at a resurrection of a little British car. The car is a 1958 Triumph Tr3 that was purchased by my late father in law Mac. He was a naval aviator and a civil service employee for nearly 60 years. The car had been disassembled to update and make it roadworthy back in the early 1980s. I took over the project and really knew nothing about car restoration, but here we go....
UPLOADS:
Learning as I go
SUPPORT
www.patreon.com/Tr3Revival
Видео
1958 Triumph Tr3 moving stuff around for better access
Просмотров 4385 месяцев назад
Shop projects and getting organized for car work
1958 Triumph Tr3 Almost Broke my leg
Просмотров 688Год назад
Working in the air assessing the blue car
1958 Triumph TR3 inner fender continued
Просмотров 3192 года назад
1958 Triumph TR3 inner fender continued
1958 Triumph Tr3 making sure the metal is clean
Просмотров 6402 года назад
1958 Triumph Tr3 making sure the metal is clean
1958 Triumph Tr3 Getting over my fear of metal work
Просмотров 4092 года назад
1958 Triumph Tr3 Getting over my fear of metal work
1958 Triumph Tr3 Wiper Motor Finale, ummm nope
Просмотров 4262 года назад
1958 Triumph Tr3 Wiper Motor Finale, ummm nope
1958 Triumph Tr3 trying to get things done but ….
Просмотров 1462 года назад
1958 Triumph Tr3 trying to get things done but ….
1958 Triumph Tr3 Finally got it down
Просмотров 2,3 тыс.2 года назад
1958 Triumph Tr3 Finally got it down
1958 Triumph Tr3 reuniting the frame and Body….. well almost
Просмотров 2322 года назад
1958 Triumph Tr3 reuniting the frame and Body….. well almost
1958 Triumph Tr3 Grease, Parts and question for the group
Просмотров 6332 года назад
1958 Triumph Tr3 Grease, Parts and question for the group
did you watch my video's on just that job ?
@@mikestrang6229 yeah but that doesn’t mean I have your ability! How are you
@@pucman1 🤣sorry for putting you on a pedestal 😜been better spent most of this year sick and in the hospital
Howdy! My advice for that repair piece is to make it 1/4” bigger on the weld sides clamp in place then scribe away. Use a thin sharpie and then cut. Trim so most of the thin line is gone and the you have enough gap to MIG at a reasonably low amperage. If you were to TIG you would leave all the line and file to closest fit. Thats it. 😂. Good luck!
@@mikeg5877 thx so much….So on another channel I saw a method I may try for the other side!
@@pucman1I do pretty much the same as Mike. Once is close, I’ll just have a grinder with a flap dish or a die grinder handy and trim as require d to fit right next to the car so I don’t have to go back to the bench.
@ thx tush I was tired and the back had given up for the day
Hey Mac. Been watching you from the start. I'm restoring a 1960 TR3 that's been in my family for 52 years. So I ran into the same issue with cutting out and making patches and was lucky enough to found a channel called Fitzees Fabrication. He shows in great detail how cuts in patch work and after spending a little using his methods patch repairs are fairly simple now. Best of luck. Do you have some contact information? I could share some pics of my restoration so far if you're interested. Keep up the good work!
@@shaunbarney9410 cool main page take the @put it after the name, then Gmail behind
To remove the pulley you first need to remove the large bolt in the center. I believe it needs a 1-1/8 socket. Use an impact wrench to remove it. That bolt goes into the front of the crankshaft and holds the pulley and fan extension in place.
Thanks I will give it a try!
Dang... that paddles gonna move some metal! It was quick, but I don't think that pulley will come off without first removing that pointy bolt that threads through the snout into the crank. This is the bolt your hand crank engages with... Keep plugging!
@@mikeg5877 guess I will have to look that up
Any time you are working in the garage is positive time. I am planning a little time during Christmas to finish up a few parts projects I have started before I start anything else. Frank
@@frankcanale3467 have to burn some time off hours so I’ll be out there! Send updates
Hey there stranger. Good to see you back out in the garage.
@@cheftush trying to make that cheftush level of organization ! IYKYK
How longs that engine been sitting? I'd take the spark plugs out and inspect the bores if possible. Spray some lubrication in there, a bit of engine oil won't hurt. Then I'd fill up a new oil filter, and the oil pan and turn it on the start until you have oil pressure. Then move onto the distributor to see if you have spark. Then it's fun time with carburettors, fuel pressure, seals and what not...
@@toxaq it had been sitting for a while, previously my video shows my getting it to spin over, I have rebuilt the distributor cap and wires, just need to add oil, hook it up to spark and see what I have….missing the ground strap, or so it appears
@@pucman1 Newly subscribed so might have to take a look back through your vids. Just got my 6 firing after sitting 20 years!
@ thanks for the sub!
Your friend does good work. They seem more substantial than the stamped pieces I have.
@@johnsmith-js9nv yes I agree 100 %
Loose wire on the solenoid, apply 12v to wire and ground to the body to see if solenoid works. Bottom looks good!
@@davidplummer2477 thanks dave
Happy to see you back at it! Nice OD.
@@roundtailrestoration thx waiting for your updates too
Yup... A-type OD... congrats... you should have a switch in the cockpit
Guess i need to research it a bit
Hi JP, it all has to get done. cleaning the frame will definitely make trouble shooting easier to spot problems.( not that it will be easy) Keep moving forward. Frank
Thx, getting back in the swing of things
Just keep it steady JP. Do the jobs you want to do or it will become a chore. Admire the work you do in the space you have like the chef. I only have a single garage in the uk and would love more space. Don’t forget - don’t take a step back to admire your work when working on the lift !!
Yep I pay attention up there for sure, some controlled chaos is a fine line for me…. Thx
Great video showing your progress bro
Trying to get back in the groove thx
Pays to have good friends…and neighbors
Absolutely and on short notice as well
What gas and what wire are you using? Seems like you’re under currenting your welds to prevent burn through. Thinner wire will allow you to weld thinner metal easier, some gases like argon\co2 mix will help too. And I see some else has also mentioned a heat sink. If you have compressed air, cool the metal down between welds. Residual heat gives you less work time before burn through.
75/25 gas and .024 wire, thx for the tips, I just need to put in more time on it for sure
@@pucman1 sounds like you're set up right and just some more time will help. I did a weekend course at a local technical college 20 something years ago which unlocked a lot of things for me.
Love the reorientation makes it easier to work on! Definitely do a rebuild or service on the carbs, clean up the dist, file the points and static time the dist after freeing the engine. Don’t forget to check the valve adjustment.
Thx Dave for the info, how are you doing?
I beat you didn't know those solid wheels are tube also the centers are riveted on the rim so they will leak around the rivets so Thay are not tubeless.
Really I did not know that! How is your project coming along?
@@pucman1 just got back out of hospital again I had to have surgery on my leg.
Well hope that is it for you Mike, ready to see you get back on it
I’m envious of your lift!
Wasn’t sure but if you saw the video I had to do a little maintenance on a safety lock before it would come down
@@pucman1 yeah, I saw it tip to one side. Scarey.
I have been looking at a 4 post lift and was wondering how tall are the post's and is it 220 or 110 to run the pump? Looks allot better!
7 feet 6 inches and runs off 110 volt plus air compressor to release the relocks
@@pucman1cool thank you! I will be looking into them.
Good luck
I got a 4 post from Wildfire lifts. Very pleased with it.
looks like much improved work environment! Haha... never expect it to be eezy... always wait for a complication and you'll be rarely disappointed LOL
@@mikeg5877 trying to get it more workable…. Thx for the comments
Keep going Man... only way to get there ;-)
Thx Mike
What you are welding is very thin, and trust me there are millions of worse welders :-). Your fabrication is really coming along! A thick chunk of copper backer will help you chase down those holes.
Thx Scott it is frustrating
Practice makes perfect!
@@cheftush trying to stay motivated, it would sure help if the masters were working on 3’s as well hint hint
Good to see some progress! Keep it up! And the welds look fine! Sheet metal is dificult.... and that's why they make grinders and flap disks.
@@alanm.4298 thx I do keep trying for sure…. If it holds long enough to put carpet over the top, that’ll work for me!
JP, Pick the holes that are in the best shape on the fire wall and hopefully the same holes in the trans cover to determine the floor height. Trust the firewall and the trans cover. If the floor is too high the trans cover will not bolt up to the fire wall and then you can decide which way to go. I did all the repairs to my trans cover, bolted it to the fire wall so all the holes were correct and all the bolts were in the fire wall before fitting and adjusting floor pans to match the trans tunnel. Yes it is very time consuming to get everything lined up but also very rewarding to be able to install the trans tunnel bolts by hand with little effort. Good luck , Welding gets better the more you do it. Your welding machine setup is key to how easy or hard the welding process will be for you. Frank
Still plugging away, thanks for the encouraging words Frank. When are you getting back on your project?
@@pucman1 I have a couple of minor TR3 projects that I am working on that are what I consider fun and need to get a few other TR3 projects that I started finish up before I get back working on welding the floor pans in. I am very happy with the way they fit but still feel it is too early to start welding til I can check front wing fit so I am confident with A post placement. Still waiting on storage container to expand shop space. That is my main problem to moving forward. Frank
Great video!! I got to meet Cheftush and Ilen at the 6 pack trials last year! He's a great guy!!
Lots of knowledge packed in there for sure, and he is a talker too
Hey JP... At this point in time I don't think there is a right... I would personally adjust the tunnel cover to fit the floors you have rather than the other way around. Hope this is what you were asking. Mike
Yep spot on…just trying to get things moving forward. Thx
I was just looking at the three covers I have in stock and ALL of them need some sort of repair so I’ll be doing the same soon!
@@cheftush hopefully you will be quicker than me
@@cheftush haha. Same. I have two is various states of rusting. All exactly where your problems are JP.
I’d fit the tunnel to the car- Floor, bulk head etc
Brace brace brace pre weld, so many early TR 's with less than straight chassis.
Yep guess when i get it mounted again i will know!
Hey JP, good stuff! I as well am learning. Do you have a supplier for the front bracket shown at 1:20. I cannot find that part anywhere except REP 421 from TRF. Thanks Bill
Nope it was a gift from one of the fabricators whom is following along with my work. Sorry
Looking good! If you get a big chunk of copper clamped behind those thin welds it'll be a lot less likely to burn through. Not sure if that is what you were talking about with a heat sink.
Thx, I was trying that, I think I need to go a little higher to get to thicker metal to tie in to…
Yeah, I don’t think that dent is normal…
Thx … you would probably know! 😂
I have the same repair to do... hang in there and keep plugging, or seaming, or butting, whatever it takes ;-)
Yep I am back in, so be prepared for slow and painful videos….😂
@@pucman1 i have made many so know them when i see them 😎
I like the way you fill the holes…. It’s nice
I try what can I say, didn’t blow it up though
Making progress. Not sure about the dent by the hand brake. Use your shrinker to get the edge profile. It is amazing how much you can shrink and produce that profile.
I will be there soon just keep hollering at the videos I’ll learn
ya I my tunnel is up in the attic I have been ignoring it and I know I have welding to do on it also.
Jump on in there Mike when you can
You have nice hands
Hahah you just miss me….
He's back! Glad to see you back at it, JP. As for the fender mounts, I'd dry fit the fender to see how it aligns. If the sill hasn't been replaced, I'd be very hesitant to move anything. I'm sure the cars were built on jigs to make sure all that kind of stuff lined up. Good luck and build momentum!
Thanks Chris I will bring down the fenders soon and see what the dry fit brings ….
Good to see you back at it. I bet you left and right were never the same. Check your tape template to your other car. Bet you a quarter you see the same thing.
I hope so, I guess when I get to fitting those up I will know for sure
your not the only one been not posting I have been spending WAY to much time in and out of the hospital and trying to recover so most of the winter I couldn't go in to my shop and play and now work will restart soon and I still am not 100 percent. will have to do a update myself.
Yep I was wondering, hope you are on the mend Mike
Good to see you back on the TR. The wing does not mount to those holes. There is a plate that has a rubber seal that is meant to keep stuff out of the gap between the wing and kick panel. I can send you photos of the part. David
Good to know I think I have that part. Guess I will see if it fits?
Glad I'm not the only one who took time off. Hard to get motivated.
Alright well hold me to the fire about getting sh$t done
Good to see you back in the car. I need to get back to mine soon..right now I’m doing a bit of a garage makeover.
I built HAWAIICJ's rear hub puller to service my TR-4. It has now pulled 4 hubs with relative ease and no damage to the hub. We owe Dave a huge THANK YOU for sharing his design!
No doubt but as an added bonus, getting him to show you first hand how it works…..
Still getting caught up. Get the "59 down, get it running and driving. Nothing special, you don't have to do a full restoration on it. If there's some rust, leave it alone. If it isn't a safety issue, leave it alone. Go to some shows, Cars & Coffee etc. Enjoy driving it. Any time you need a break from the '58, take the '59 out. Once the '58 is done, sell the '59 and recoup some of your money.
Thanks so much for the information, not sure why this didn’t show up until now but great to get your take on it!
Here's what's going to happen. Once you have both new shocks installed, you will find the old ones in a box hiding behind something else. Happened to me twice last week. I'm working on a different car but the process is the same. Just found your channel a few days ago and am catching up. I'd like to do a TR-3 one day.
I did exactly that!
when old lights smoke on the inside they are not long to live.
Mike buddy where you been? Looking for your updates too
good looking headlights... baby steps add up!
I keep thinking that, boxes are getting packed for sure
You go dad!
One day