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Great video showing your progress bro

Pays to have good friends…and neighbors

What gas and what wire are you using? Seems like you’re under currenting your welds to prevent burn through. Thinner wire will allow you to weld thinner metal easier, some gases like argon\co2 mix will help too. And I see some else has also mentioned a heat sink. If you have compressed air, cool the metal down between welds. Residual heat gives you less work time before burn through.

Love the reorientation makes it easier to work on! Definitely do a rebuild or service on the carbs, clean up the dist, file the points and static time the dist after freeing the engine. Don’t forget to check the valve adjustment.

I beat you didn't know those solid wheels are tube also the centers are riveted on the rim so they will leak around the rivets so Thay are not tubeless.

I’m envious of your lift!

I have been looking at a 4 post lift and was wondering how tall are the post's and is it 220 or 110 to run the pump? Looks allot better!

looks like much improved work environment! Haha... never expect it to be eezy... always wait for a complication and you'll be rarely disappointed LOL

Keep going Man... only way to get there ;-)

What you are welding is very thin, and trust me there are millions of worse welders :-). Your fabrication is really coming along! A thick chunk of copper backer will help you chase down those holes.

Practice makes perfect!

Good to see some progress! Keep it up! And the welds look fine! Sheet metal is dificult.... and that's why they make grinders and flap disks.

JP, Pick the holes that are in the best shape on the fire wall and hopefully the same holes in the trans cover to determine the floor height. Trust the firewall and the trans cover. If the floor is too high the trans cover will not bolt up to the fire wall and then you can decide which way to go. I did all the repairs to my trans cover, bolted it to the fire wall so all the holes were correct and all the bolts were in the fire wall before fitting and adjusting floor pans to match the trans tunnel. Yes it is very time consuming to get everything lined up but also very rewarding to be able to install the trans tunnel bolts by hand with little effort. Good luck , Welding gets better the more you do it. Your welding machine setup is key to how easy or hard the welding process will be for you. Frank

Great video!! I got to meet Cheftush and Ilen at the 6 pack trials last year! He's a great guy!!

Hey JP... At this point in time I don't think there is a right... I would personally adjust the tunnel cover to fit the floors you have rather than the other way around. Hope this is what you were asking. Mike

Brace brace brace pre weld, so many early TR 's with less than straight chassis.

Hey JP, good stuff! I as well am learning. Do you have a supplier for the front bracket shown at 1:20. I cannot find that part anywhere except REP 421 from TRF. Thanks Bill

Looking good! If you get a big chunk of copper clamped behind those thin welds it'll be a lot less likely to burn through. Not sure if that is what you were talking about with a heat sink.

Yeah, I don’t think that dent is normal…

I have the same repair to do... hang in there and keep plugging, or seaming, or butting, whatever it takes ;-)

I like the way you fill the holes…. It’s nice

Making progress. Not sure about the dent by the hand brake. Use your shrinker to get the edge profile. It is amazing how much you can shrink and produce that profile.

ya I my tunnel is up in the attic I have been ignoring it and I know I have welding to do on it also.

You have nice hands

He's back! Glad to see you back at it, JP. As for the fender mounts, I'd dry fit the fender to see how it aligns. If the sill hasn't been replaced, I'd be very hesitant to move anything. I'm sure the cars were built on jigs to make sure all that kind of stuff lined up. Good luck and build momentum!

Good to see you back at it. I bet you left and right were never the same. Check your tape template to your other car. Bet you a quarter you see the same thing.

your not the only one been not posting I have been spending WAY to much time in and out of the hospital and trying to recover so most of the winter I couldn't go in to my shop and play and now work will restart soon and I still am not 100 percent. will have to do a update myself.

Good to see you back on the TR. The wing does not mount to those holes. There is a plate that has a rubber seal that is meant to keep stuff out of the gap between the wing and kick panel. I can send you photos of the part. David

Glad I'm not the only one who took time off. Hard to get motivated.

Good to see you back in the car. I need to get back to mine soon..right now I’m doing a bit of a garage makeover.

I built HAWAIICJ's rear hub puller to service my TR-4. It has now pulled 4 hubs with relative ease and no damage to the hub. We owe Dave a huge THANK YOU for sharing his design!

Still getting caught up. Get the "59 down, get it running and driving. Nothing special, you don't have to do a full restoration on it. If there's some rust, leave it alone. If it isn't a safety issue, leave it alone. Go to some shows, Cars & Coffee etc. Enjoy driving it. Any time you need a break from the '58, take the '59 out. Once the '58 is done, sell the '59 and recoup some of your money.

Here's what's going to happen. Once you have both new shocks installed, you will find the old ones in a box hiding behind something else. Happened to me twice last week. I'm working on a different car but the process is the same. Just found your channel a few days ago and am catching up. I'd like to do a TR-3 one day.

when old lights smoke on the inside they are not long to live.

good looking headlights... baby steps add up!

You go dad!

They look good.. nice and shiny. 😁

Those look good.

Hi J.P. , any progress is good progress. My car is stalled so I can add to my shop space. When my old work shut down I inherited some additional equipment and had to use my shop space to store it and now it is time to get more space so I can get back to working on my car. Thanks for the video update. Frank

I don't mind the boring stuff... Cheers

Those are good pumps JP.

Keep your shiny bits to yourself

Plug might be a different heat range. Not an issue there is plenty of room in the chamber.

Looking forward to the noise!

For your initial start up I would hook a wire from the battery straight to the coil and use the button on the starter solenoid to crank it. That eliminates any other wiring issues you may have. Use a crocodile clip at the battery so it is easy to disconnect the coil. Have you cleaned the float bowls and freed the float needles? Good luck

Turning over is half the battle. Cheers

Nice to see you back, John.

How do you eat an elephant?... one bite at a time.. 😁 Keep at it. Cheers

The bundle of wires you pointed to on both sides are Head lights, side lights, indicators and horn wires. Hot wire the coil to do your test run that way you are not fighting any wiring issues.

Fire that bad boy up!