Hi JP, David beat me to the auto park answer. I would patch the battery box if the bottom is sound. There is a tremendous amount of spot welds to drill out to remove the battery box as well as cutting the firewall to get the top lip back under the scuttle then weld it back in place, a lot of work. You can use a battery charger to test your wiper motor once you get it back together. I have recently tried the Syl Glide and like Chef Tush have come to find many uses for it, a good product. Great for rubber parts that need lubrication. Frank
that coil of wire is coated its fine and the wire you are fixing is for the park. I cleaned my wiper motor and in 1955 there was no park and only one speed. that cap moves so you can adjust where it parks.
Be sure to replace the brushes BEFORE they wear down to the holder,...otherwise the hard metal edges of the holder will grind into the commutator (?)....The wipers will continue to work as it destroys the parts....I snapped a small plastic tube over the brushes holder spring so it cannot close enough to do such damage....(self explanatory when you look at it) ....My wire is frayed, so that job's coming up,...haha
The 130 degrees is the sweep the wipers make. They change the location of the pin on the gear to change the sweep. The non conductive area is the auto park position. By adjusting the location of the non conductive area you can change the park position. Is that wear on the fixed armature plates?
Hi JP. I had to replace my park wire, too. Soldering to the cap sucks because the tab is thick. Takes a lot of heat to get the solder to flow. I did a video on my rebuild if you're interested ruclips.net/video/MjF4xnXnhd8/видео.html
Making progress my friend. I replaced the battery box on my 3 and it takes a little time but we’ll worth it in the end.
Thanks Mike
Hi JP, David beat me to the auto park answer. I would patch the battery box if the bottom is sound. There is a tremendous amount of spot welds to drill out to remove the battery box as well as cutting the firewall to get the top lip back under the scuttle then weld it back in place, a lot of work. You can use a battery charger to test your wiper motor once you get it back together. I have recently tried the Syl Glide and like Chef Tush have come to find many uses for it, a good product. Great for rubber parts that need lubrication. Frank
Thanks Frank unfortunately it did not work....
that coil of wire is coated its fine and the wire you are fixing is for the park. I cleaned my wiper motor and in 1955 there was no park and only one speed. that cap moves so you can adjust where it parks.
So much to learn on these parts
The red wire wasn’t wrapped on mine. I used synthetic grease ( syl glyde) in my motor.
So no insulation inside the box…. Wow
Be sure to replace the brushes BEFORE they wear down to the holder,...otherwise the hard metal edges of the holder will grind into the commutator (?)....The wipers will continue to work as it destroys the parts....I snapped a small plastic tube over the brushes holder spring so it cannot close enough to do such damage....(self explanatory when you look at it) ....My wire is frayed, so that job's coming up,...haha
Good thought but I figure it won’t be in the rain that much now….
The 130 degrees is the sweep the wipers make. They change the location of the pin on the gear to change the sweep.
The non conductive area is the auto park position. By adjusting the location of the non conductive area you can change the park position.
Is that wear on the fixed armature plates?
Thanks for all the info and yes there is some wear…Didn’t think it was that bad though
Oh yeah, if the bottom of that box is solid, I’d just patch it!
Might have to switch it up a bit and try it
I would repair (not replace) the battery box if there is good metal down below...
Might be easier than electrical work
Hi JP. I had to replace my park wire, too. Soldering to the cap sucks because the tab is thick. Takes a lot of heat to get the solder to flow. I did a video on my rebuild if you're interested ruclips.net/video/MjF4xnXnhd8/видео.html
Good job on your repair....at least it worked