To basically get it started, gravity feed the carbs from a gas can on the w/s. Inspect, test and file the points. Inspect or replace the plugs, adjust the valves. You might need to free and regasket the carbs, SU the piston sticks in the bell, Strombergs the diaphragm rots. Jump wire the coil to power the ignition. Jump wire the solenoid to start it.
Hey JP, good stuff! I as well am learning. Do you have a supplier for the front bracket shown at 1:20. I cannot find that part anywhere except REP 421 from TRF. Thanks Bill
2 to 4 lb is what I have been told. What is wrong with the mechanical pump? To just start it run a hot wire to the coil and use the button on the solenoid. Good luck.
When you pull out the old spark plugs, spray a little Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder. Turn over the engine by hand a few rotations with the plugs out (no compression, makes it easier) to disteibute the oil on the cylinder walls and around the piston rings. Yes, this oil will burn off when the car is started. This is just to loosen up anything that might be stuck from sitting and provide some lube in there during the initial cranking. If possible, later before actually starting it up disconnect the coil and crank with the starter until you get oil pressure. Hopefully about 30 lb. This requires a reasonably healthy starter. I agree that minimal fuel pressure is needed... no more than 4 lb. And, in fact, can be done just by gravity feed from a fuel container sitting above the car. No need for a working pump, since you're not driving the car anywhere at this point. Oh, and be sure the gearbox has fresh oil in it too. Even in neutral, the gears will be meshing and turning in there once the engine is running. Gearbox oils need to be sulphur free. There are some brass bits in there it will damage. Redline makes a gear oil that's good... MT90, if I recall correctly.
QAnother person to watch is coldwar motors in alberta Take a look at the series he did on his 1960 fury from patch panels to straightening stainless trim He does a lot of metal work very well
2-3 lbs max on the fuel pressure. Yep, I’m having fun with the TR4. Maybe just get it running and do all the safety stuff…whatever you do, don’t give up!
Hey, JP. Glad to see you're back at it (and thanks for the shoutout). One of my first videos was me starting the Spitfire motor for the first time. Very basic setup. Battery, plastic fuel can (should be above or even with level of fuel pump so it doesn't have to struggle), and the most basic ignition setup. I didn't care about the charging system, though I had the belt connected to the generator (it didn't work). I can give you more details via email, but I just used the wiring diagram and did a very basic electrical setup to give me starting current and then ignition. About it. Here's that video, for what it's worth: ruclips.net/video/2jB7vs1tIXg/видео.html. Oh, and I had a cheap-o HF oil pressure gauge hooked in where the oil pressure sender was. This was a full rebuild, so I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to wipe all my bearings. In your case, without the rebuild, might not be necessary.
Still getting caught up. Get the "59 down, get it running and driving. Nothing special, you don't have to do a full restoration on it. If there's some rust, leave it alone. If it isn't a safety issue, leave it alone. Go to some shows, Cars & Coffee etc. Enjoy driving it. Any time you need a break from the '58, take the '59 out. Once the '58 is done, sell the '59 and recoup some of your money.
You watch all the best guys on RUclips. Don’t lose faith just remember, one piece at a time. Good luck my friend.
I keep trying to up my game so i have to watch people more talented than myself.....
I don't have any constructive advice but I'll be watching your progress. I love the TR3s. Cheers
Thanks I hope to get back on track. Life throws up obstacles, need to navigate around them quicker!
To basically get it started, gravity feed the carbs from a gas can on the w/s. Inspect, test and file the points. Inspect or replace the plugs, adjust the valves. You might need to free and regasket the carbs, SU the piston sticks in the bell, Strombergs the diaphragm rots. Jump wire the coil to power the ignition. Jump wire the solenoid to start it.
Maybe when i get a bit closer, you can swing by for a beverage!
Hey JP, good stuff! I as well am learning. Do you have a supplier for the front bracket shown at 1:20. I cannot find that part anywhere except REP 421 from TRF. Thanks Bill
Nope it was a gift from one of the fabricators whom is following along with my work. Sorry
2 to 4 lb is what I have been told. What is wrong with the mechanical pump? To just start it run a hot wire to the coil and use the button on the solenoid. Good luck.
Just didn't want to run any old gas through and replace lines and such yet
@@pucman1 Temporary line from the pump to a gas can. Take the float bowls off the carbs to clean out the gunk and free up the float needles.
When you pull out the old spark plugs, spray a little Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder. Turn over the engine by hand a few rotations with the plugs out (no compression, makes it easier) to disteibute the oil on the cylinder walls and around the piston rings. Yes, this oil will burn off when the car is started. This is just to loosen up anything that might be stuck from sitting and provide some lube in there during the initial cranking.
If possible, later before actually starting it up disconnect the coil and crank with the starter until you get oil pressure. Hopefully about 30 lb. This requires a reasonably healthy starter.
I agree that minimal fuel pressure is needed... no more than 4 lb. And, in fact, can be done just by gravity feed from a fuel container sitting above the car. No need for a working pump, since you're not driving the car anywhere at this point.
Oh, and be sure the gearbox has fresh oil in it too. Even in neutral, the gears will be meshing and turning in there once the engine is running.
Gearbox oils need to be sulphur free. There are some brass bits in there it will damage. Redline makes a gear oil that's good... MT90, if I recall correctly.
@@alanm.4298 Thanks for all the information
@@fnduck8642 thx so much for all the info and options…. I’ll get there eventually
QAnother person to watch is coldwar motors in alberta Take a look at the series he did on his 1960 fury from patch panels to straightening stainless trim He does a lot of metal work very well
Thanks for the heads up, I will check it out
2-3 lbs max on the fuel pressure. Yep, I’m having fun with the TR4. Maybe just get it running and do all the safety stuff…whatever you do, don’t give up!
Thanks i cant wait to see the video from the Trials, I would drive up but it is a little far for a one day trip.....plus i would need a car
I know a guy that can cut keys… he’s kinda a dingus but he can get the job done
At least he doesn’t drive a Subaru !!
Hey, JP. Glad to see you're back at it (and thanks for the shoutout). One of my first videos was me starting the Spitfire motor for the first time. Very basic setup. Battery, plastic fuel can (should be above or even with level of fuel pump so it doesn't have to struggle), and the most basic ignition setup. I didn't care about the charging system, though I had the belt connected to the generator (it didn't work). I can give you more details via email, but I just used the wiring diagram and did a very basic electrical setup to give me starting current and then ignition. About it. Here's that video, for what it's worth: ruclips.net/video/2jB7vs1tIXg/видео.html. Oh, and I had a cheap-o HF oil pressure gauge hooked in where the oil pressure sender was. This was a full rebuild, so I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to wipe all my bearings. In your case, without the rebuild, might not be necessary.
Thanks I will check it out
Still getting caught up. Get the "59 down, get it running and driving. Nothing special, you don't have to do a full restoration on it. If there's some rust, leave it alone. If it isn't a safety issue, leave it alone. Go to some shows, Cars & Coffee etc. Enjoy driving it. Any time you need a break from the '58, take the '59 out. Once the '58 is done, sell the '59 and recoup some of your money.
Thanks so much for the information, not sure why this didn’t show up until now but great to get your take on it!