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I appreciate you sharing your tips. Next time I get the machine out I’ll try them. I’m currently using .02 PETG vivak material. Next time I’ll try to buy a thinner material.

Thanks for watching 👍

That’s a great printer! Enjoy the journey👍

Thanks for watching my Aussie bud👍

@ScaleModelExperiment you're welcome James, cool to see these Scales printed, fantastic information, enjoy your weekend 🍻 🇦🇺 🦘

@MetalMania3DTV-TAS-AUS I’m fighting a flu this weekend so I hope to get a video out next week. 😞

@ScaleModelExperiment oh James that's no good at all, wishing you a speedy recovery 🙏 don't pressure yourself to do a video, I'm happy to watch no matter what time it comes out, all the best Cheers KC 🍻🇦🇺🦘🪃🏔

None at all. I use water wash because the smell of IPA makes my nose go crazy.

I’m so glad to help. Plan to waste a bottle of resin in your first week figuring it out. Make sure to be safe as the resin is not good to breathe or touch.

@ScaleModelExperiment Absolutely. I appreciate you so much. Thank you, again!

Correct I use a .02 PETG Film in the vacuum former. I do use canopy glue but did not this time. Probably should have…

Hi Walt, I only use water wash resins because the smell of IPA makes my nose go crazy. Elegoo sent me their detergent to try out and it works amazing and smells nice.

Thanks for watching, I appreciate your support 👍

Print both the full engine and in pieces so you know how to fit it all inside the engine bay. I suggest replacing the drive shafts with styrene rod as well. They were a little short.

@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks. I can modify the .stl files for the drive shafts as needed so that shouldn't be a problem.

That is the trade off. You CAN print parts low to the build plate to reduce waste at the expense of parts that have print lines all over them. That’s why I angle and lift the parts to reduce prep time.

Thank you so much Manny!👍

@@ScaleModelExperiment Your welcome!!

Thanks so much for watching. I appreciate your support👍

Hi Stephen, thats very cool that your dad had one. You can print one and make a replica of his car. Thanks for watching and leaving me a comment.

Cool, it was a fun project. Enjoy your journey Paolo👍

Thanks for the tip on the vacuum former. The Miata is from a designer named tuner kits.

You have to create the supports yourself for this model. I’ve done a few videos on how to create supports and how to angle pieces.

That’s a huge print! What size printer do you use?

@thanks! I break the large components into sections that are assembled post print using alignment holes inserted during the slicing operation. Short lengths of styrene rod are then inserted into the holes and serve as alignment locators for the mating parts. I run a Bambu P1S for the fdm prints and a Saturn 3 Ultra for things like the grille, dashboard, lenses, etc. The windows are typically cut out of clear sheet with a small cnc and the curved glass is vacuum formed. It’s so great having tools available to us at an obtainable cost, what a time to be alive lol

@@nuge74 I’ll say! You do have it all figured out!

@@ScaleModelExperiment lol I’ve had my share of head scratching moments and failures😁 Lots of fun though and a great hobby. All the best!

@nuge74 that’s the right attitude. Figure it out! I’m actually glad I started with the 4k machine. I wouldn’t have appreciated the 12k machine.

Here is a link to the files: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/ferrari-sf90-xx

That was a fun project to take on. I complained most of the time but I’m happy with the way it turned out. Thanks for watching 👍

What a guy! I’m sure Andrey appreciates your support. I have my share of his files as well.

Thanks so much for watching. I don’t edit files so I don’t know what the thickness is. I have however taken risks with some designers only to get paper thin models that print badly.

​@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks for that. Yes, I think minimum should be 1mm. I model in CAD 1:1 and know scaling down does not necessarily work. You have to artificially thicken your models. It is a balance. But yours look great.

For sure! The Ferrari purists went crazy when it came out.

Yes, I agree but that’s the price we pay for resin printing.

Chitubox 2.2 doesn’t have an antialiasing feature. I think it does a decent job of hiding layer lines. I started with a 4k machine so everything with my 12k machine is no big deal to sand.

@@ScaleModelExperiment Resolution is not that important, pixel size matters in these cases, i know sanding fixes the issues, but if you get some bad layer lines in hard places to reach AA might be better. Try using Lychee

That’s a great car! Good luck with your project, thanks for watching 👍

Thanks again bud 👍

Thanks bud 👍

I used Elegoo 8k space grey water washable resin to print the bodies.

I totally understand. I did not rescale the files at all. That is the way they were given to me. I do agree that files designed for smaller prints achieve better results. The Kei truck I printed will eventually be upsized to 1/24 for printing. I did not consider changing the layer height when printing smaller. I left it alone at .025. Thanks for watching and leaving me the tips.

For this video I used Elegoo 8k space grey water wash resin. I printed the parts at .025 layer height with 2.4 second exposure time. Your exposure may vary depending on your environment and printer. I recommend running a test verification print. Thanks for watching👍

@@ScaleModelExperimentthanks !

That’s a tough question. I’ve seen others get fabulous results using TS13 over decals. I’ve also seen horror shows. I use 2k urethane automotive clear over decals because it doesn’t shrink or attack decals. If you are GOOD with a rattle can you can apply over decals. Otherwise If you are a beginner don’t risk it.

​@@ScaleModelExperimentthanks for the tip. I'll experiment on some spare decals and paint. I'm in the process of finishing up a Revell '40 Ford Convertible street rod.

@johnclemans7802 sounds like a cool project. Best of luck👍

I could make a video of just that… taking parts off 😂

For people that suffer from misophonia it's an unbearable noise. I had to skip that whole section of the video. I love the prints though, keep up the great work!

@ sorry about that! I had no idea.

@@ScaleModelExperiment No, I'm sorry to bring it up. It's just a common thing on RUclips, ASMR seems to have taken over

It’s somewhere next to my mirror that I lost from the kei truck 😂

Thanks Karl! The Mustang and Kei truck are also scalable to 1/24 scale when i want to print them.

Yes, they are handy for removing supports. Thanks for watching👍

Or stocking stuffers😁

Get outta here! Break open that box and print something! You’ll be hooked.

Thanks for watching William👍

Hi Oliver! I have long skinny fingers so yes they are very small.😂 I’m printing your special model now.

Thanks so much Brett, I am enjoying the journey and bringing you all along for the ride.

That’s a good point. I washed and let the Mustang pieces dry before taking them off the supports.

A 2mm car? Wow! That’s tiny!

Thanks for watching Travis 👍

I have Andrey’s 72 RR files. Hmmm good luck with your print bud👍

Here’s the thing Ray, I can tweak my settings to make the cars even more sharp. It’s a rabbit hole for sure. But, that comes at the expense of build time.

@@ScaleModelExperiment ??? But you got the same scale in better detail as you went along (and using a different software site). Are you saying you changed settings on those to make detail better, not that the software provider did a better job?

@ you’re absolutely correct, I changed nothing except the files I was printing. One designer was more detail than the other. Not knocking anyone, but one was designed for a larger scale and simplified for 1/64, other was designed for 1/64. Now I do plan to print the Kei truck in 1/24 someday. It may seem basic at that scale.

Let’s not get carried away😂 z scale is microscopic

Thanks so much for watching, glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks so much for watching, glad you enjoyed it.