Trouble with decals? Try this! A Tutorial with Miniature Decals
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- This is a very special episode. My channel sponsor Miniature Decals and I worked together to bring you this decal tutorial on how to apply decals over a complex surface. Please watch WenBin Sun explain the process he goes through to coerce the decal into place. I learned a lot of tips from the video and I hope that you do too.
For the RUclips Algorithm: Scale Model car decal 1/24 Hatsune Miku Goodsmile Racing Fujimi Tamiya Hasegawa Aoshima Revell AMT Mobeus HPI Luka A4 Mokei Plamo
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Thanks everyone, I'll be back next week with more progress on the PZY Ferrari SP3 project.
James
Nice tutorial, thanks a lot. But there is one point I will warn about. That is when he "remoistens" the decal with plain water from the tray. It does not mean so much on this model, as it is white, but if the model was black, there is a risk that it would create "silvering" under the decal, or in worst case the decal will lift off, when drying, because You actually wash the glue off the decal, with the plain water. I recommend the use of Microscales Micro-Set (the blue) as "remoistener", it also act as sort of additional glue, without damaging the decal. It is my experience as a decal manufacturer for over 40 years, I have learnt this tip.
Thanks for the tip Nils. Tell me more about the decals you were involved with. You have my interest. I appreciate your support👍
Decals are my favorite part of the building process. Great Video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Mike! I’m glad that you enjoyed it. Decals, polishing and PE are challenging to me so I don’t mind doing them.
Interesting how little time the decal is in the water.
I found that interesting as well. I let mine sit for 5 seconds then lay it out on the workbench.
Hi James, it's a great technique but only if the decals are great quality. As Sun WenBin mentioned I had troubles with Tamiya decals breaking under their own weight, the kit was a little bit old (Ferrari F1 2001) but not as old as some I used from the 70's and that were still working.
I think that the hardest I applied was big decals on motorcycle tanks, a stiff compound curve, often lining-up with stripes on the sides.
A good training is NASCAR decals, the models are cheap but the decals are gigantic and of mediocre quality, hard (for me) to apply flawlessly around the body, so I think that after that, you're ready for anything.👋🏻
That’s a good point you’re making. I do use a lot of new decals on my builds. I should do an old set on the channel because the process is definitely different.
Great tutorial by WenBin Sun, I'm sure this will be helpful when I do my next racing car project 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for watching Karl, we all have different ways to do decals but I still think we can all learn from each other.
Very cool, always something to learn. I myself have never used the cotton swabs but certainly use the brush technique. It is specially good when pushing those decals into those panel lines. Certainly not a very easy decal to lay down. Patience is a virtue here.....
Thanks for watching and sharing your technique as well Marcos. We all can learn from each other which makes this community the best ever! 👍
Great video James. Surprised he wasn’t using mr mark setter or softer. But I’m definitely trying the heat gun next time.
Thank you for watching Big Chef, I really think that the heat is better than solvent. I’m still learning too 👍
Thanks, James, a great video and a carmarning demonstration on decals. Every builder has a shelf of started but not comple5ed models. I have a Fujimi Mercedes SLS GT3 Goodsmile raceing with abandoned decals that cracked up as I worked on it. Years later, armed with more experience and another very expensive set of Fujimi supplied decals, I gave it another try. Yes, I still needed to slice it over the rear arches and always using warm water and a hair dryer, but again, It split and broke up. So it wasn't my technique. It was the decals.
So my question is, who makes these replacement decals? You mentioned they were silk screened.
Kind regards Dave Porter London.
Hi David, Miniature decals does the SLS GT3 decals as well. Join the Facebook group and send WenBin a message to get a price. His stuff is far superior to the original 💩 decals. Thanks for watching👍
I found this video just in time, I’m working on a Tamiya Lotus 107B kit from the 90’s right now, and the decals are giving me a hard time. It appears that he uses just water, no dish soap in it. Even though his decals seem to be extremely forgiving, the first part of this video should help a lot. Thanks!
Correct, no dish soap. His brand of decals are very malleable and easier to stretch. I’m a fan! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment👍
😂😂Atomic bomb indeed. It will destry decals if you arenot careful with it.
That’s what I’ve experienced when I use it. That’s last resort to break out that stuff. Thanks for watching Spencer👍
What a great video. Thank you and WenBin for sharing the techniques. I have a decaling project coming up this week that I'll apply some of these methods to.
You’re so welcome Wayne, thank you for watching👍
Great video! I also would be interested in acquiring one of those brushes if you have any idea where I might start looking. Thx. Stephen
I’ll let you know what I find brush wise. Thanks for watching, I’m glad that you enjoyed the video.
Does Ben have a youtube channel. He's amazing!
He actually does. youtube.com/@bingun2013?si=kuTT4R03znu3Vf8C
Super great information. When I put the decal on the 68 charger air cleaner decal I can't ever get it to sit right
I know exactly what you mean. The curves go down slope in all directions. Maybe fasten the middle and try to stretch the decal slowly outwards.
James, Which white paint do you use on the body ?
This was WenBin doing this video. I use Tamiya acrylic gloss white cut 1:1 with Mr hobby leveling thinner and airbrushed with 2 light coats to get the body white.
Another great video. What kind of brush is that?
Hi Greg, I asked WenBin and he replied that it is a shaper brush from an Art store. Thanks for watching!
A4e these decals in the conventional sense or vinyl using water like the big boys use on real cars?
Hi Gary, these are silk screen printed water slide decals just better quality than what comes in American kits. WenBin designs them and has them printed in China.
Killer video, James! I, for sure, am going to try the hair dryer! I use micro sol if it is difficult to lay down. I agree on cotton swabs. I learned the brush technique a while back. I have been doing that. And I told you all ready about my coffee cup warmer idea i want to try to keep the water warm. Ugggg decals and clear just decals period 😆 it's a gamble like rolling dice!!! I have tried just brushing micro sol on the back of the decal no water at all. And it works!! Alot of military builders use no water at all because of rivet detail.
Hey Tim, yes the coffee warmer is a good idea. I don’t recommend putting sol on decals directly. It makes them too fragile to handle or adjust.
No, the video I watched. they cut the decal out of the sheet, wet a brush with micro sol and paint the back of the decal with it, and wait for it to slide off the paper. I have tried it, and it works. I'll try to find the link for the video
@@timstuper thanks bud
Very cool James ❤😊
Thanks brother❤️
other tutorial talking mixing 70% white vinegar 30% water, instead those softer like Mr Mark, is it really ok ? for injekted decals with a clear coat, isn't vinegar to agressive ?
It really depends on the decal company. Sorry I can’t comment on whether vinegar works or not. I’m trying to get away from using any solvents at all like my friend WenBin does, just heat and a brush.
@@ScaleModelExperiment i will try using same method, looks definitly much accurate, i need to try on wasted kits just to practice first.
Your previous video was also helpful, you needed a bit longer but your method is imo safer for modelism starters like me
Patience and time is the key to decals. Keep working with them and don’t get in a hurry.
Great video James and WenBin Were you able to find out if the brush he uses is a special type or brand. I'd like to try this technique on my next build.
Cheers Allan from Australia.
Hi Allan, I did talk with WenBin about the brushes he uses. He said to go to an art store instead of looking for a model car specific version. I’ll check out my local store to see what I can find.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks James. I also had a look around and in one of WenBin's videos the brush details are visible as 3/8 size which is an artists brush with a slanted shape, but seems to me that anything similar with about 1/3 inch width would probably do the job. ?Just not sure how stiff it would need to be but i/ guess not too hard bristles. Thanks for your efforts cheers
@@allanlowe9346 great, I’m glad you found the answer. Let me know what you find.
Were your ears burning today? A group of us at the IPMS show in Fremont were talking about your amazing decal work.
Was that you? I was wondering… lol. Thanks for watching the video, this wasn’t me doing decals but I’m trying to learn a better way.
@ScaleModelExperiment There was a British gentleman that was I was chatting with and we were talking about decals. He's doing a red and black Audi R8 race car. He said you just paint the body white and everything else is decals.
@JDsHouseofHobbies oh man, that sounds like a good project!
Awesome video
Thanks for watching Travis 👍
❤
Thank you Terry!
Thanks for this, James! When you asked for suggestions for how-to’s, I was going to suggest decaling.
Thanks for watching Rick, I plan to do another showing the way that I do them as well.
I can’t believe how brutal he is with the decals, I would have done what you said you’d do during the video as well.
I use a water brush to help remove water etc from under the decal but obviously it’s wet and not dry like he used, I would be interested in what type of brush he uses.
I have been lucky enough to obtain a few of his decal sets and this video has been very insightful about the quality of them.
Thanks for sharing
I’ll find out where to get those brushes as I want some also. Thanks for watching, I appreciate your support 👍
This was very interesting to watch him NOT use set and softer. As far as using a hair dryer, the first time i learned to bigger decals, the person showed to use a heat gun. So thats what i have and thats the way ive always done it. Ive actually used the heat gun on my real car to lay down some pretty big pieces of vinyl and its pretty much the same technique. Using a light soapy mix to spray underneath the vinyl and heating it up with the heat gun.
Interesting to use a real heat gun with model cars. I imagine for very brief moments.
@@ScaleModelExperiment well it has a couple different settings on it, so it's nowhere near as bad as you would think. It has a heat and speed setting.
@barebonesgarage7624 gotcha, I’ll stick with my hair dryer.
@@ScaleModelExperiment lol I hear ya!
Love ur videos btw! Watch them all the time now.
Thanks for the tip. Always good to see how others apply decals.👍
I totally agree. I watch a lot of Japanese and Chinese model channels for tips and tools. It seems that they have a bigger variety of tools, paints etc than we do in the US.
Very interesting on that Thanks again for sharing that
Thanks for watching GB, I’m glad that you enjoyed it.