Clear Parts and Vacuum Forming a Complete Idiot’s Guide to 3d Resin printing
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Welcome back to the 3rd installment related to resin 3d printing. In this episode I'll print some headlights and tail lights using the resin printer and clear resin. I'll also print some bucks for forming windshields with a vacuum former.
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If you are interested in 3D Printing resin model car parts, I’ve done other videos:
Complete Idiot's Guide to 3d Resin Printing - Step by Step Chitubox Elegoo Saturn 4
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Complete Idiot’s Guide to 3d Resin Printing Model Car Bodies Chitubox Elegoo Saturn 4
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Very informative James! Just a thought……when I create window bucks for my designs, I create them with no less than 2.5mm’s thickness to withstand the forces of the machine.
It looks like they were a bit thinner than that, not to mention the hot material coming down on it may weaken it a tad at that point of force.
Yes……I’ve recommended to folks vacuforming that to be sure you have PLENTY of PETG or Vivak around.
It can take several tries or more until you get a good piece, as there’s a lot of variables taking place that can affect how it will come out.
Heat, thickness of the object, force of the machine, thickness of the plastic……all play a role.
Thanks again for the great video James! I’m sure it’s gonna help a bunch of folks. 👍🏾
I’ll be printing more bucks and trying to form more soon.
I'm new to your channel. Thank you for your "live" presentations. Seeing the "how to" in simple terms and watching a failure or two sure does open my eyes and certainly will avoid me many frustrations I may encounter. Again, thank you, and keep up sup[plying us laymen with great videos!
Thanks for watching and joining the channel DC. I hope that you enjoy your stay.
Make some tiny holes around the perimeter of the window shape to allow more air to get sucked out faster...maybe 3/32 diameter holes.
Thank you Lindsey, I appreciate you man!
I've never used a vacuum former before. But I was thinking maybe you could just skip the heating element. Clamp the plastic sheet down on your molds and turn on the vacuum table. Then, use a heat gun to slowly heat the clear plastic sheet. It might give you more control. Just a thought. Only recently found your channel and have really been enjoying your videos.
That’s a good idea too for more control of the heat. Welcome to the channel, I appreciate your support.
Hi James, Good start, I think your petg is way too hot the other problem is that you have undercuts under your windshields that's why it's catching and breaking.
For a simple shape like that you can warm the sheet lightly and pull-it without the vacuum, it will avoid the resin from melting (stains on your windshield).
The reason I made the windshields on a base like that is to avoid the wrinkles, are they at the right scale? The clear resin parts look great, way better than I was expecting (lines, bubbles,...).👋🏻
Thanks again Yves for your help. I’ll be trying again this week.
My clear sheet vac experience is nil. Except to say that I've never successfully polished imperfections from the finished product! But I have had good luck polishing 3D clear parts. I sand back any imperfections with 1500 and hit it with Novus 2. A nice flat surface reflection looks more realistic than X22 in my view.
I like the look of the thin sheet windows better than kit plastic so I’ll be using it. As for headlights and tail lights they will be fine with clear on top.
James! I have no ideas on how to better your experiments. You're way ahead of the game and us viewers learn a TON from you by watching your channel!!! If you ask me, I think your vacu forming windows looks fantastic after a bit of polishing with Novus. I understand your disappointment but like you said , this is the Scale Model Experiment and I can clearly see you're getting much better after trying several times doing these windows. Keep up the good work on your channel!
Thank you Ray, I’ll keep doing my experiments till I figure it all out. I appreciate your support bud 👍
Well said Ray ❤🇦🇺🍻🦘
@MetalMania3DTV-TAS-AUS thanks MM👍
@ScaleModelExperiment you're welcome James 😊 🙏 🤗
320 to 4000 is a huge jump in grit…to eliminate those scratches left by the 320 you need to use several intermediate grits between 320 and 4000. 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 should do the trick.
Thanks Forrest. I firmly believe that the window bucks don’t need to be any smother than maybe 800 grit. Now I know…
Alot of aircraft modelers dip their canopies in future floor wax an helps them be crystal clear. I would try that before tamiya clear. Looks good though. As for the vacuum forming I think having the window bucks still on the 3d supports is causing the clear plastic to be drawn down and gripping near those supports thus not "letting go". Is there any way to put the window bucks onto a solid base?
Hi Dean, I’ll have to call in a favor to model the bucks the way you said. I don’t have the experience in Blender to do that (yet).
I have learned so much again after this video.. thank you so much! I need to get myself some Tamiya X-22 & I hope to find some thin PET plates that are so thin & have a removable layer
Thanks for watching Lorenzo, I bought the PET .02 from eBay. It was pre cut to fit in the machine. Kinda pricey but worth it.
Hola, yo fabrico comercialmente autos a escala y utilizo un método similar al tuyo para hacer los vidrios.
Prueba de cortar el vidrio con el cutter sobre el molde antes de sacarlo, para que el esfuerzo no rompa el molde.
Toca suavemente el transparente por la parte inferior. Cuando lo sientas blando (elástico) es el punto óptimo para hacer el vacuum.
Muchas gracias por tu ayuda. Aprecio que hayas visto y compartido. Probaré tu técnica la próxima vez que haga el vacío.
The first mold is the correct one, the only thing missing is the air passages for the vacuum, the more you have the better, the second one is bad for a reason, the piece to be made will hug underneath, for that reason it was difficult to remove, no and it needs to be a tall piece, it has to be well ventilated
Good tips there. I’ll make more bucks and try again.
Interesting how you can dip them in X22 to make them clear. I've thought about vacuum forming but had no clue on how to go about it. Looks like there's a learning curve. Thanks for sharing
Hey Mike, I’m an idiot so I had to try it. Haha. I’ve dipped parts before and it fills the imperfections to therefore making them clear again.
Nice video James. Clear resin parts can be a pain. For my clear resin parts I spray them with Mr. Hobby GX112 uv cut clear. Not only does it return the clear finish the UV blocker helps prevent yellowing over time. Every time I see someone vacuum form it seems like an ordeal.
Hi JH, I’ll be dipping them. Maybe I could thin some Mr hobby into a cup for dipping.😁
@@ScaleModelExperiment Aircraft modellers have been dipping their canopies in Future floor polish for decades to improve clarity. Works really good in that genre.
I hope you do a follow up on vacuum forming windows. I might also suggest a bit of a review of the printing equipment and supplies you are using. So glad you’re sticking with your information/educational based format. So many of the other channels have moved away from this style. I’m completely engrossed in your advanced tools and techniques!
Hi Steve, I will be returning back to vacuum forming later. I have a tight deadline with this project so I need to spend my time wisely. I appreciate your support of the channel. I’m always trying new stuff to see if it works better. 👍
That is the number one question with everyone as far as 3D printed models. What about the windows? @@ScaleModelExperiment
Great job. But I think your front and back windows are too close.
You may be right. I have plenty of space on the former. I’ll do more bucks soon.
Awesome video James! Always great to learn about new techniques in the hobby.👍
Thanks so much Fordman! I appreciate your support 👍
If you do such idiot guide, you should show it how to make it right. Never touch uncured resin, safety aspect wasn't mentioned. You touch the same display with your bare hands that you later touch with your gloves, that's pointless. Use a proper respirator, ventilation system (Printer inside a grow tent for ex.) and never touch anything related to the printing process with bare hands but also not do it barefoot, wtf?!. It's contaminated. I guess you don't want any type of cancer or skin irritation. And you should look for options to improve your workflow of the process because you take many unnecessary risks while removing the print from the bed. Spills or ram the spatula into the artery that some people already experienced. There are many ways to improve it to make it more comfortable. Like doing the removal inside a big box for ex. Also don't sand resin prints without a mask. At least avoid to breath it.
And for Vaccuum forming, you could that also with a DIY wooden frame build inside an old not other way used (not for food) Oven then for this to make that. And to avoid failures, vaccumforming hates sharp angles. Bevel the object. That Box models that Yves made for you are the type of design you want to have. Also you printed your two windows too close together. They need to be further away from each other in order to create a proper vacuum around the object. Also, the deeper your model is, the more likely you will have problems to suck the air onto the object. So what people normally do there is to put some small tiny holes into the object where the air can get sucked through. These holes normally get made at the problem areas such as corners. But for you windows, i think it doesn't need that. But it can help. Also you didn't seemed to let the part cool down. The plastic is still hot and still somewhat soft and might get distorted if you remove it too quickly. Just read up on vaccum forming guides. It's very easy basically. Reading up on that could have made you a way better first experience.
The safety aspect should not be undermined. If you make a video like this and it is for beginners, you shouldn't be one yourself. Because there are lots of people who watch a video like this and copy everything exactly as it is without doing any further research themselves to see whether it is the right way to do it, because people as viewers put a lot of trust in their favourite creators that is often not questioned. And unfortunately this leads to people being very careless with resin printers, even though we should expect personal responsibility. But innocent people also get dragged into it. For example, when resin is flushed down the sink and groundwater is poisoned. Or that just because resin doesn't smell doesn't mean you should breathe it in. Just like being washable with water is automatically harmless to your health. It just makes the printing process cheaper, nothing else.
But anyway, you are the first one on the internet as it seems who made several ideas i had into my mind into reality. So it's not like i didn't enjoyed. So i am really happy to see more from you! 👍
Print a reverse mold for it to help the forming process so you can use less air pressure and less heat.
Interesting 🤔 I may have to try that.
I'm grateful that you're putting yourself through this! lol
Hehe, thank you JD! I’ll figure it all out and let you all know how I did it.
Another awesome video, James. I've always been curious about vacuum forming.
Couple of questions for ya.
1). Where did you get your machine?
2). What kind of sanding sponges are those you're using?
The vacuum former I have belongs to a friend. He let me borrow it. The sanding sponges are godhand brand and can be purchased on Amazon.
@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks, James. I'm a sucker for tools & gadgets.
@@ghrobbs me too! Lots more experiments to come!
Maybe you need to create an angled wall around your buck, so the clear plastic will not get stuck around the edges
I have to agree with you here. From what I have seen, the vacuum can pull the soft plastic under the lip, as seen here and make it really hard to remove the buck without damage. This is awesome to see windows done like this and again is another huge progression in the world of 3D printing.
Pretty cool gear to have! Very handy :D
Thanks DVDW, as soon as I figure it all out😎
Great video James. I’m trying to print glass today too. After washing I let dry, then I dipped. Ack in resin. At. It looked good, then I cured it for 1 minutes and it came out about 60%, but showed print lines. My next batch I’m going to sand glass after curing, then I’m going to try clear spray on 1 piece and future polish on the other. I like the way you’re making your bucks. I’m going to set that up tonight and try making bucks for my vacu form machine. I keep getting small bubbles or the haze you got as well. Some day………..👍👍
Hi Big Chief, I have been getting a lot of good feedback from the video. The bucks that I was using may not work because the vacuum is pulling under the lip. I will try the other bucks with less heat to see if I can do better. It’s all a SME 😁
This is definitely something I want to get into not only for my model building hobby but my sons Dungeon and Dragons gameplay. My question is can the parts be cured while still attached to the supports or is removing them before curing just a personalpreference? I've ordered parts from several different retailers and some come already removed and some come still on the supports. Great video by the way.
Hi BlownMouse, yes parts can be cured on supports. It’s my preference to remove them before because they have some flex to them making it easier to remove them. It’s a great hobby to get into. Enjoy it!
Thanks for the video and kudos. One thing about vacuforming is to make sure you have no undercuts on your buck. The shape your viewer sent you is a far better approach. Any undercuts you have (all that lip and raft space below) will draw the plastic in around your buck and make it difficult to remove, as you experienced. You want a pretty good draft angle on your shoulder around the face of the buck, so that the buck contacts the hot plastic first, and plenty of vacuum air flow around it from that draft angle allows it to pull tight to the top. Sharp corners or height differences will also make it harder to get a good pull, or sometimes to close suction route over a part... but you shouldn't run into that unless you start doing some pretty out there bubble window retro future cars, lol. Keep having fun!
Thanks so much for the information. I’ll be trying again with the different buck soon.
Hi. You need to use the other bucks. The reason you had problems is the lip of the window's. You can't have any place the plastic can catch on. Or you'll have to cut the window out to remove it. Great videos, I'm new to 3d printing and I'm enjoying them.
Thanks for watching Dave, I’m not new to printing but I’m still learning. I’ll print more bucks and try again👍
Thank you James for sharing your experience,the success and even the failure.
Keep up with the great work interesting to follow 👍
Hi Ronny, thanks for watching. It’s all about the experiment man! 😁
Oh James, you are nailing this. Way to go!!
I would love to see more about the modelling of the bucks for the windows. I would also like to see a more in depth of your attempts on the vacuum forming of these windows. What I absolutely love is that you are showing when it is failing, not just everything coming out perfect. Watching this really helps appreciate when things do not always go perfect.
regarding the bucks, you will need sloped solid rafts, I would be interested to watch you model this, or watch you learn to do this.
Thanks for enjoying my misfortunes 😁. I agree, it needs to be shown that I am not an expert and overcoming problems is actually fun. I’ll get back to windows in the future. I’ll be posting the first part of the build hopefully this weekend.
Another awesome informative video James, love ya work 👌🍻🇦🇺🦘🍻🍻🇦🇺
Thanks so much for your continued support MM❤️
I meant to say in my last response, I have watched so many vacuum forming videos in the past, and they mention the small bubbles/dots in the PET are because there is some moisture in the sheets. Dry the sheets in the oven for an hour on very low heat. This will make the sheets crystal clear when forming. The stains are from the moisture.
Interesting, the sheets were in the house for a year and I took the protective covers off just before I put them in the machine. I think I over heated them next time I’ll heat them very quickly and pull vacuum to see what happens. I’ll also watch other people’s videos.
Great job 👍🏿
Thank you!
I think Paul Budzik has done some really good videos/articles on vacuum forming clear parts. I think he uses thicker clear acrylic, much stronger and polishes out really well.
Thanks Allan, I’ll look that up.
@@ScaleModelExperiment This one in particular is what I found and really informative. Notice that he switches on his vacuum well after the plastic has been pulled down over the buck. Also notice the stainless wire sheet he uses over the plastic to dissipate the heat to the plastic.
James, I will try buy one of those small dental vacuum formers that you have borrowed, they look reasonably priced. I have a much larger vacuum former machine which I find unnecessarily too big.
This is the video in reference. I assume you have found the same one.
ruclips.net/video/e7RkwCerPPA/видео.htmlsi=VXTVWXmrDTXHubSv
Try and use the plastic from a two liter soda pop bottle
That’s a good idea if you have a crystal clear scratch free bottle.
Try and use the part under the label. Cut the plastic to the size of your vacuum forming machine.
Then try, if
You have any scratches. You can use quick shine on the new formed glass
@@andrewredmon7080 gotcha!
Very nice.
Thank you for watching and commenting Marcelo👍
I am curious, do you find a preference with the vacuum windows over the printed ones? I would assume the printed windshields are meant to fit really well in the spaces provided so why not just print the window peices in clear? I love the thinness of the vacuformed ones but it also kind of feels low tech, like going back to garage resin kits.
No, you will NOT get them as clear as a good vacuformed piece. It can be pure hell to get rid of the resolution lines, divot marks of the supports……all kinds of hassle to polish the glass clear…..AND you run the risk of breaking the glass due to it being more brittle.
Vacuforming can take a number of tries before you get a good one……it’s taken me sometimes half a dozen tries before I get glass I can be happy with.
Oh great you already did it haha
Glad you found it 👍 make sure to check out the interior and body videos too 😁
@@ScaleModelExperiment great stuff, thank you for share
@ekimba of course! My pleasure 👍
I was really hopeful you were going to show a successful method to create windshields for the resin car bodies. This single issue is what’s holding me back from downloading and printing some of the awesome bodies out there. Commercially available resin bodies are usually based on existing kits and you can use windshields and other parts from a donor kit, not an option for the stl “kits” I would assume. Couple things came to mind while watching your attempts. Possibly use slightly thicker sheet to eliminate some of the waviness?? Also, I’m thinking the solid forming bucks are definitely the way to go. They’d surely make removal of the clear film much much easier.
There have been a lot of suggestions from the audience to help. Making the bucks solid to heating the plastic less. It’ll take some practice but I’ll figure it out and share my findings.
@@ScaleModelExperiment awesome !!! I’ll stay tuned 😀😀