I notice you used a wooden clothes peg for a clamp. I too use it like you have, but also modify it; to create a different clamp. I disassemble the peg and reverse the two halves, having both flat surfaces back to back, still using the same spring. This modified clamp will enable you to hold together parts that require flat jaws. Give it a go. Love you video by the way. Thank you.
Nice tutorial on what glues to use on what parts! I use fairly the same array of glues. Instead of canopy glue, I use 'no-sew fabric' glue. A 4 oz bottle costs about 2 dollars at the old hobby of lobbies. It's very strong, dries quick & crystal clear and works on polystyrene and resin (3d 0 parts. I use it for items that attach to the body at final assembly and for assembling 'mock-ups'. When you want to disassemble the mock-up, simply put the assembly in hot water for about an hour....it will simply fall apart.
Thanks for the alternative to the white glue. I wish I knew that PVA glue was an option 20 years ago. I made a mess out of a lot of projects back then.
I have two questions re the glue you use… first is your preferred “white glue” for mock ups… I’ve tried the standard Elmers and it simply does not bond in any reasonable time… second is the dreaded window installation. Keep them coming!
The bottle of Elmer’s that I have is OLD so it is probably thicker than new bottles. I should buy another bottle and leave the top off😂. The Tamiya craft bond is a good white glue as well as the Cemedine rhinestone adhesive. Both water based so you can remove any excess.
Hi James, Great video, good information! FYI another way to use clear glue-like Canopy Glue and Testers Clear parts cement is on Dashboard Instruments. After you apply the decals and they dry try putting a drop of clear glue on each one. After it dries (Clear) it looks like they are covered with glass. Regards!
Thank you Ronald, I also have the original version. This one was easier in that I didn’t have to paint it but also challenging to keep it clean while building. I appreciate your support 👍
That's awesome James. Thanks for sharing this information with us all. Now I have a much better understanding of the type of glues we can use in our hobby. To be honest, I had never heard of Cemedine before and looking at you use it, now I want it! Well done, both for the tutorial and for the Mercedes build too. Looks amazing.
I use the Cemedine often with PE parts. It allows time to reposition dries clear and is easily cleaned up. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel my friend 👍
Been trying to get the Tamiya craft bond from my supplier here in Canada and nothing yet. 😢 Been wanting to give that one a try for some time. Great breakdown on what to use and where! Thanks.
Great video James. The Mercedes is beautiful. I use a lot of Tamiya thin and super glue. Since watching your videos, I have started using PVA glue in my buildup kits. Works like a charm, thanks. I do need to get some of that Tamiya craft glue.👍👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment hey James. I picked up some Alene’s clear tacky glue and their PVA wood glue. They both seem to hold very well, and the clear tacky gel dries very clear and their wood glue is sandable. I haven’t tried yet, but I was thinking joint filler🤷🏻♂️. I’ve seen the Tamiya craft bond, just haven’t found any yet. Like models and paint, can’t have too many glues.😁
Thanks for watching Horton, a lot of people use the mod Podge, I think I need to try it. Mr cement is just like the Tamiya I use. I feel that the testors window stuff gets clogged easily and is too thin for my liking. But, if it works for you then keep on using it.
I use MEK to bond plastic. It works just like the Tamiya hobby glues, but when bought in a quart, it is a much more economical product. Some don't like the odor, but to me is no worse than the hobby glues. A quart works out at about 32 cents an ounce where as the hobby glues are about $4 an ounce!!! I transfer from the quart to a cleaned out nail polish bottle with the built in brush.
I used to use it when I was a bench mechanic in the 80's, I would get a headache every morning when I opened the container- but it would go away in about 5 mins ( it's now outlawed IN CA, because they say it might cause cancer)
I did use the superglue to attach the smoked chassis plate to the space frame. It had definite connection points and was hidden. I don’t use SG very often because if you make a mistake you can’t fix it.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Have a huge collection of Tamiya F1 cars love them all. Hope my wife doesn’t throw them away when I pass. I am 60 so trying to figure out what I want to finish.
Hi Neil, I think that canopy is thinner than TCG, but both hold about the same. Both set up quickly and hold strong after curing. TCG is easier to apply because of the applicator.
Awesome video as always James... 👏 Surprised you did not mention Mod-Podge. I use it all the time holds real good when gluing chrome to paint and of course you just wipe it off... Lol LLAP 🖖
@@ScaleModelExperiment You should give it a try. I also use it to hold headlight and tail light lens in, hold the led bulbs in place when I light the headlights, I fill the dash gauges so they look like they have lens, I glue my glass in with it also. I do believe you could build a kit with it... Lol 🖖
Hey James. I have a question. The Tamiya thin glue. Does it take a very long time to set up on painted services? I have a lot of problems with a lot of the glues. They just won't glue the part together. It is so frustrating. Pieces fall off of the model. Thanks a lot for the great info.
I’m interested to learn your technique James. When using the extra thin are you holding the glue applicator to the joint for a second to allow the glue to make contact and flow into the joint? Could your paint be too thick? I demonstrated using extra thin on painted and unpainted parts in the video.
Hi Greg, I’ve also stuck my finger to the side of a model while using superglue. Problem with using it is there is no coming back if you make a mistake. White glue is more forgiving.
@@ScaleModelExperiment maxi gives u time to move it around and I have pulled pieces off many times when I needed to. It’s been good to me. I use a tooth pick to apply
I left a link in the video description for rhinestone adhesive which is what Cemedine is. In the video I used a glue called Cemedine which I bought in Japan. I found a reasonable alternative here in the USA. It can be purchased on Amazon here: a.co/d/7eXAJq1
Where would Mod Podge, available at craft stores, and Testor's tube glue, available at Hobby Lobby, stand in relation to the glues you discuss in this video, James? That clear body model looks interesting. I'm told Mod Podge is great for installing clear windows in models because it doesn't fog. True? Untrue? Would there be issues using it on that clear model? I have 55 year old models I built using Testor's, including putting together painted engine parts, and chrome parts to painted surfaces, that are still bonded. (I was careful to wipe off any excess glue, so the paint shows no effects from the glue --- although I never ever used metallics on engines back then, so that could make a difference now if I restart building kits and use Testor's). Interesting video, I like hearing your opinions because I'm certain you have plenty of recent experience with the hobby. It bothers me when I hear modelers on other channels categorically say it's impossible to glue together parts that are painted or chromed and they must be stripped to bare plastic first, since MY past experience has proven otherwise, and your comments here seem to back me up.
Hi Ray, I will ask the audience to chime in on Mod Podge. I’m pretty sure it is a thick type white glue, does not fog chrome or clear parts and dries clear. Testors tube glue is a no no for anyone serious about building models. Too many things go wrong with it. The strings get all over the place, it is very strong and doesn’t dry very quickly.
CA glue didn’t get much comment. It comes in various thicknesses and there are accelerators. BSI has a non fogging CA. When and where do you actually use CA?
Hi Bob, I did neglect the superglue. I used it to attach the clear chassis pan to the space frame because it had secure mounting pins and the chassis was already smoked clear. I try not to use superglue because it doesn’t allow much time to reposition and there’s no chance of cleanup if you have a mishap.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I’m building a 1950 Olds and I have simulated hood hinges which hold the hood in position with mini magnets. The hinges are also held in place with mini magnets which when removed allow the hood to be in the closed position. Since I had a lot of metal to metal contact and metal to plastic contact I felt that super glue gel was about my only option because of the bond strength needed. Since I am a retired dentist I also used flowable dental resin which is cured by a battery operated intraoral UV curing light. It has about the same bond strength as CA but you have unlimited working time until you expose it to the UV light then it is rock hard in about 30 seconds of exposure.
Hi, strange question. My mother bought a few cheap fake lego building kits of holiday stuff at walmart and I was searching online for glue to use for them and your video came up with one of my searches. Would the advice in this video work for those also? They are plastic kits still, so maybe? I wanted to help make them last for her.
Hi JD, yes I do like using the Tamiya craft bond. Be warned though it’s a strong hold when cured. Don’t use it for white glue mockups. I need more bottle caps 🍻
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thank you so much for your answer. I already built 2 300SL plus a naked chassis massively improved, and looking at your vidéo, I plan to build a fourth one
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank You! This tutorial cleared up 3 problems: gluing clear glass/headlight lenses, painted to painted surfaces & painted to chrome surfaces. Again, thank you!
I’m so glad that the video I created helped you out.😎 Thanks for watching 👍
I notice you used a wooden clothes peg for a clamp. I too use it like you have, but also modify it; to create a different clamp. I disassemble the peg and reverse the two halves, having both flat surfaces back to back, still using the same spring. This modified clamp will enable you to hold together parts that require flat jaws. Give it a go. Love you video by the way. Thank you.
Thank you for the tip. I’ll give it a try👍
Nice tutorial on what glues to use on what parts! I use fairly the same array of glues. Instead of canopy glue, I use 'no-sew fabric' glue. A 4 oz bottle costs about 2 dollars at the old hobby of lobbies. It's very strong, dries quick & crystal clear and works on polystyrene and resin (3d 0 parts. I use it for items that attach to the body at final assembly and for assembling 'mock-ups'. When you want to disassemble the mock-up, simply put the assembly in hot water for about an hour....it will simply fall apart.
Thanks for the alternative to the white glue. I wish I knew that PVA glue was an option 20 years ago. I made a mess out of a lot of projects back then.
I have two questions re the glue you use… first is your preferred “white glue” for mock ups… I’ve tried the standard Elmers and it simply does not bond in any reasonable time… second is the dreaded window installation. Keep them coming!
The bottle of Elmer’s that I have is OLD so it is probably thicker than new bottles. I should buy another bottle and leave the top off😂. The Tamiya craft bond is a good white glue as well as the Cemedine rhinestone adhesive. Both water based so you can remove any excess.
Hi James, Great video, good information! FYI another way to use clear glue-like Canopy Glue and Testers Clear parts cement is on Dashboard Instruments. After you apply the decals and they dry try putting a drop of clear glue on each one. After it dries (Clear) it looks like they are covered with glass. Regards!
Thanks so much for watching 👍 that’s a good tip for the gauges, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the information on glues. The Mercedes clear version is cool. I have the other version in my stash to build.
Thank you Ronald, I also have the original version. This one was easier in that I didn’t have to paint it but also challenging to keep it clean while building. I appreciate your support 👍
Outstanding video and presentation.
Thank you.
Thank you so much AP, I appreciate you watching and leaving me a comment 👍
Good demonstration of using multiple tools (glue in this case) for a specific task. Great job James!
Thank you for watching Don, I wish someone would have shown me this video 20 years ago😂
That's awesome James. Thanks for sharing this information with us all. Now I have a much better understanding of the type of glues we can use in our hobby. To be honest, I had never heard of Cemedine before and looking at you use it, now I want it! Well done, both for the tutorial and for the Mercedes build too. Looks amazing.
I use the Cemedine often with PE parts. It allows time to reposition dries clear and is easily cleaned up. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel my friend 👍
Thanks James for this exc3llent tutorial on the different glue and bonding agents. The Mercedes looks awesome!!!
Hi Chris, thanks for checking out the video. I’m glad that you enjoyed it. 👍
Been trying to get the Tamiya craft bond from my supplier here in Canada and nothing yet. 😢 Been wanting to give that one a try for some time. Great breakdown on what to use and where! Thanks.
Interesting that you can’t get it Spencer? I hope you can find another supplier. It’s good stuff! Thanks for your support my friend👍
Very interesting. Thank you.
@@richardweiner6815 of course Richard, I’m glad to help👍
This is a great information! I have a limited edition Dale Earnhardt Sr. Nascar kit that has a clear body
Perfect, I’m glad to help!
Another great video James. Hope you’re still considering the Resin 101 video !
Hi Thomas, yes the next project is a resin kit. Stay tuned! Thanks for watching👍
Thank you for the info on types of glues.
Thanks for watching Fordman! I appreciate you man!
That was a great glue class, the kit was awesome also. Thanks.
Thanks for watching Dale, I appreciate your support👍
Nice informative video. I’m going to have to get some help of the Tamiya craft glue. Thanks for sharing.
It’s good stuff Michael. Safe and reliable to use for assembly. Thanks for your continued support my friend👍
Great video James. The Mercedes is beautiful. I use a lot of Tamiya thin and super glue. Since watching your videos, I have started using PVA glue in my buildup kits. Works like a charm, thanks. I do need to get some of that Tamiya craft glue.👍👍
Hi Big Chef, what PVA glue do you like using? I’m glad to help spread the word about trying new techniques.
@@ScaleModelExperiment hey James. I picked up some Alene’s clear tacky glue and their PVA wood glue. They both seem to hold very well, and the clear tacky gel dries very clear and their wood glue is sandable. I haven’t tried yet, but I was thinking joint filler🤷🏻♂️. I’ve seen the Tamiya craft bond, just haven’t found any yet. Like models and paint, can’t have too many glues.😁
@bigchef2112 that’s the truth! Good tools make life easier.
Interesting i normally use Mr cement thin and thick and for glass I use the testors widow maker glue or mod Podge
Thanks for watching Horton, a lot of people use the mod Podge, I think I need to try it. Mr cement is just like the Tamiya I use. I feel that the testors window stuff gets clogged easily and is too thin for my liking. But, if it works for you then keep on using it.
Clean build 👍
Thank you Stig! I appreciate your support 👍
I use MEK to bond plastic. It works just like the Tamiya hobby glues, but when bought in a quart, it is a much more economical product. Some don't like the odor, but to me is no worse than the hobby glues. A quart works out at about 32 cents an ounce where as the hobby glues are about $4 an ounce!!! I transfer from the quart to a cleaned out nail polish bottle with the built in brush.
I’ve heard of using MEK. Never tried it myself. Sounds like a good alternative.
I used to use it when I was a bench mechanic in the 80's, I would get a headache every morning when I opened the container- but it would go away in about 5 mins ( it's now outlawed IN CA, because they say it might cause cancer)
@@robertmann7277 2 part epoxy does the same thing to me. It’s nasty stuff! I only use it now for gauges to have a shiny bubble over them.
@@ScaleModelExperiment would Elmer's Glue do the same thing?
@robertmann7277 Elmer’s is too weak of a glue joint in my opinion. I use it for white glue reviews only.
Nice, however you can still see all glass /plastic glues after they dry. just not very well???
Correct, they are well concealed. I tried to use transparent glues on anything that would be seen through the body.
Thank you for the great video James. Very informative! Do you ever use super glue?
I did use the superglue to attach the smoked chassis plate to the space frame. It had definite connection points and was hidden. I don’t use SG very often because if you make a mistake you can’t fix it.
Kool model , clear. 😃good information .
Thanks for watching Dannie, I appreciate the support 👍
Thanks for the information on glues. 👌👌👌👌
Absolutely Eric, my pleasure! Thanks for watching and leaving me a comment👍
I almost always learn something useful from your video's.
Thank you
Thank you Terry, I am so happy to help the community 👍
Wow she looks amazing awesome job
Thank you Travis, I appreciate your support 👍
Great video James. Lots of good info.
Thanks so much for watching, I’m glad that you enjoyed the video 👍
Very helpful! Some more products I need to add to my stash. ✌🏼
Thank you for watching Michael, I appreciate the support👍
Great information. I have a better understanding of adhesive now
Awesome Carl, I’m so glad to help👍
Cool model. I ordered some Tamiya craft glue.
Thanks for watching👍 I like it because it’s easy to use and cleans up easily.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I am a Tamiya nut and want everything Tamiya.Look forward to watching more of your videos.RC
@@outfield1988 my friends make fun of me for buying everything Tamiya 🤣.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Tamiya and Dewalt our my favorite brands. Anything with the Tamiya name is gold to me.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Have a huge collection of Tamiya F1 cars love them all. Hope my wife doesn’t throw them away when I pass. I am 60 so trying to figure out what I want to finish.
Very informative. Thank you! Am I correct to understand that Tamiya Craft Glue is stronger than Canopy Glue?
Hi Neil, I think that canopy is thinner than TCG, but both hold about the same. Both set up quickly and hold strong after curing. TCG is easier to apply because of the applicator.
Thanks so much for sharing this! Is the Tamiya craft bond and canopy both a PVA glue?
Hi Jimmy, yes it is a PVA type glue. I’m glad to help out the community 👍
Awesome video as always James... 👏 Surprised you did not mention Mod-Podge. I use it all the time holds real good when gluing chrome to paint and of course you just wipe it off... Lol
LLAP 🖖
I’ve never tried Mod Podge but your aren’t the first to mention it. I’ll have to look into it. Thanks for watching Bruce👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment You should give it a try. I also use it to hold headlight and tail light lens in, hold the led bulbs in place when I light the headlights, I fill the dash gauges so they look like they have lens, I glue my glass in with it also. I do believe you could build a kit with it... Lol 🖖
Awesome video James ❤😊
Thank you sir!
Thanks again for a helpfull video!
Of course, my pleasure! Thanks for watching👍
This video has been so helpful for me, I feel much more confident now gluing parts together. Thank you!
Of course! Thank you for watching. It’s my pleasure to help the community.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching Rick, I appreciate your support 👍
Good stuff. Come to think of it, my using a heat gun for the same purpose is quite crazy. XD
Using a heat gun for? Joining parts? Yes that’s crazy!
@@ScaleModelExperiment Yes! But mostly for joints invisible after finished, or for junk car projects where I can be messy. :P
@dvdw_graphics_crafts that’s insane!
Hey James. I have a question. The Tamiya thin glue. Does it take a very long time to set up on painted services? I have a lot of problems with a lot of the glues. They just won't glue the part together. It is so frustrating. Pieces fall off of the model. Thanks a lot for the great info.
I’m interested to learn your technique James. When using the extra thin are you holding the glue applicator to the joint for a second to allow the glue to make contact and flow into the joint? Could your paint be too thick? I demonstrated using extra thin on painted and unpainted parts in the video.
Only use BSI maxi and gold plus. Glue the paint pieces. Never had a piece un glue in 2 years.
Hi Greg, I’ve also stuck my finger to the side of a model while using superglue. Problem with using it is there is no coming back if you make a mistake. White glue is more forgiving.
@@ScaleModelExperiment maxi gives u time to move it around and I have pulled pieces off many times when I needed to. It’s been good to me. I use a tooth pick to apply
Many choices out there which makes the hobby great. Great video
So the cremadine adhesive...what one on amazon is the same as you show?
I left a link in the video description for rhinestone adhesive which is what Cemedine is. In the video I used a glue called Cemedine which I bought in Japan. I found a reasonable alternative here in the USA. It can be purchased on Amazon here:
a.co/d/7eXAJq1
Where would Mod Podge, available at craft stores, and Testor's tube glue, available at Hobby Lobby, stand in relation to the glues you discuss in this video, James?
That clear body model looks interesting. I'm told Mod Podge is great for installing clear windows in models because it doesn't fog. True? Untrue? Would there be issues using it on that clear model?
I have 55 year old models I built using Testor's, including putting together painted engine parts, and chrome parts to painted surfaces, that are still bonded. (I was careful to wipe off any excess glue, so the paint shows no effects from the glue --- although I never ever used metallics on engines back then, so that could make a difference now if I restart building kits and use Testor's).
Interesting video, I like hearing your opinions because I'm certain you have plenty of recent experience with the hobby. It bothers me when I hear modelers on other channels categorically say it's impossible to glue together parts that are painted or chromed and they must be stripped to bare plastic first, since MY past experience has proven otherwise, and your comments here seem to back me up.
Hi Ray, I will ask the audience to chime in on Mod Podge. I’m pretty sure it is a thick type white glue, does not fog chrome or clear parts and dries clear. Testors tube glue is a no no for anyone serious about building models. Too many things go wrong with it. The strings get all over the place, it is very strong and doesn’t dry very quickly.
Mod Podge is great for clear parts. I use it frequently. The only negative is a slow dry time
@@ScaleModelExperiment yes, I used to wipe off excess Testor's, but never had any issue with drying time in those days. Has it changed formula?
Is the TAMIYA craft bond stronger than regular white glue?
Hi EH, yes I would say it is stronger and sets up faster. Thanks for watching 👍
CA glue didn’t get much comment. It comes in various thicknesses and there are accelerators. BSI has a non fogging CA. When and where do you actually use CA?
Hi Bob, I did neglect the superglue. I used it to attach the clear chassis pan to the space frame because it had secure mounting pins and the chassis was already smoked clear. I try not to use superglue because it doesn’t allow much time to reposition and there’s no chance of cleanup if you have a mishap.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I’m building a 1950 Olds and I have simulated hood hinges which hold the hood in position with mini magnets. The hinges are also held in place with mini magnets which when removed allow the hood to be in the closed position. Since I had a lot of metal to metal contact and metal to plastic contact I felt that super glue gel was about my only option because of the bond strength needed. Since I am a retired dentist I also used flowable dental resin which is cured by a battery operated intraoral UV curing light. It has about the same bond strength as CA but you have unlimited working time until you expose it to the UV light then it is rock hard in about 30 seconds of exposure.
@@bobread5772 that sounds like next level glue Bob!
Use a small brush instead of that silly tiny aplicator. Makes accesing those tiny spots not at all a problem. Barely an inconvenience.
Thanks for the tip. Do you clean the brush afterwards or just dedicate a brush to glue?
@@ScaleModelExperiment dedicated brush. The little white testors throw away ones work great.
Mercedes looks awesome
Thank you Greg! I appreciate you watching👍
Hi, strange question. My mother bought a few cheap fake lego building kits of holiday stuff at walmart and I was searching online for glue to use for them and your video came up with one of my searches. Would the advice in this video work for those also? They are plastic kits still, so maybe? I wanted to help make them last for her.
I’m not sure the type of plastic so I can’t recommend a solvent glue. A water based or superglue would work.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I'll look into those! thanks!
I'll have to look into the Tamiya Craft Glue. And, I stole your idea of using bottlecaps for holding paint and cement,
Hi JD, yes I do like using the Tamiya craft bond. Be warned though it’s a strong hold when cured. Don’t use it for white glue mockups. I need more bottle caps 🍻
Hi. Where did you get this transparent Mercedes-Benz 300 SL body?
Tamiya just issued this as a new kit this month. It should be in stores soon. I received an early version from my sponsor Upscale Hobbies.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thank you so much for your answer. I already built 2 300SL plus a naked chassis massively improved, and looking at your vidéo, I plan to build a fourth one
@@TD-Modelisme it’s a great kit. I don’t need to tell you anything about how precise the fitment is on this one. Thanks for watching👍
Thanks Man!
Of course! I appreciate you watching. 👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment 🎩