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What fuel pump do you use i see the regulator.

What kind of mufflers are those

Nice.

Who do you get to grind cams? Trying to get a 104 lsa ls cam

So basically you are setting everything on 0, but when you rotate to advance 10 degrees you pick the closest post for #1 spark plug and that’s what gives you 10 degrees advanced. I think this is how progression ignition shows how to do it as well and I didn’t get it until now. In a month from now I’m going to be breaking in a camshaft, I bought the DLC lifters in hopes of not having a failure. Thanks for the demonstration, awesome work.

This is an outstanding real world example that has helped (greatly) on my converter choice. I was a bit leery to go with a 4500 - 5000rpm stall, fearing it would be too much (others advised against it as well), however, after this video, I think a 4500 that flashes to ~5000 will work perfect. Combo: 85 Mustang (~3200lbs with driver), 4:10 8.8", '83 306 (based on older gen 289/302 stock block/stock crank and rods balanced and drilled for 7/16" bolts, hypereutectic pistons), 10.5:1 compression, 90's version TFS Track Heat heads, ported and matched Weiand Xcelerator, Comp Cam Oval Track 242/246 106LSA Solid Flat (4000-6800 pb in this 306 - locked ignition @34 - limited to 6500rpm due to stock(ish) rotating assembly), Holley 750 (4150 E85 kit), worked over C4 (no converter yet). Primarily used for spirited driving and cruising. This is my wife's car, so I have reliability in mind rather than going all out. Used a 15lb aluminum flywheel for break-in, and was extremely throttle sensitive with the 5 speed (I loved it, wife didn't), hence the C4. Quarter mile times aren't really the goal, however, am thinking, with good traction, might be a high 11 second ride if everything is dialed in correctly. Great video(s) Nyle - huge help for those of us looking for excellent info with real world examples; very much appreciated!

I enjoyed the drive, thx

I had a 400 with vortec heads made 500hp ran 9s in a s10

Stall speed doesnt stall till that rpm.. You can still cruise around at 2000 rpms with a 5000rpm stall. Its all fluid dynamics in the converter, its the most vital part of a car that most people skimp out on.

I never minded driving my 86 Olds 442 too much - 68 Olds 350 with a THM 350- 3000 stall/ 3.73 gear on the side streets, even the highway at 65 (3300 rpms) but after watching this video, my ride seems streetable and tame compared to this monster. It actually doesnt seem too bad for that high of stall and 4.56s with 29 inch tires. Hell, you could drive it to the track if it wasnt too far! Sounds mean. I dig it. Great roads for test drives. At 3500-3700 rpms, it sounds like it's not even working it that hard. Like it could cruise for a couple hours at that speed.

Nice to see a Gen 1 small block Chevy. The LS is cool but.....Im gettin tired of hearing about them. 11.50s at 117 is awesome. I'm a big vortec 350/L31 guy since Ive owned a 96 Chevy C1500 std cab 2WD. Bought it back in 2004 ,still have it, still clean, still runs great, fairly simple to work on. Had the same THM 350 in my 86 Olds 442 since 2010. Just had to get a better aftermarket intermediate sprag race for that firm 1-2 shift with drag slicks. Sure, a 200R4 would be nice but I dont do a lot of highway driving and the THM 350 is just so damn reliable, simple

Man, I dig a person who doesn't go all high tech ,high dollar and hauls ass. I did a similar, simple , middle of the road build on a 68 Olds 350 in a 86 Olds 442 back in 1998. Other than .030 forged flat tops, (9.8 compression) there's no trick shit in it. Stamped steel rockers, hydraulic flat tappet cam- dur @.050 230/234 , standard 1.88/1.56 valves, did some mild porting on the heads, (factory Olds cast iron) AC delco mechanical fuel pump/ 18" mechanical flex fan/ RPM intake- 650 holley mechanical secondaries HEI ignition. With a 10" 3000stall converter(THM 3505) and 3.73 gear, with slicks it's ran a best of 12.61 at 106. "You need roller rockers/ roller cam, you need bigger valves and an electric fans and fuel pump, you need aluminum heads"...from the guy running high 12s in a 455 442. Unless you have a 7000 rpm cam/heads combo and valve springs with 150/350 pressures, stamped steel rocker seem fine.

Nice!

Im building a 406 with vortec heads I'm using a camshaft with a 108 lsa camshaft about 10.5 compression . Thou I like that 106 thump.

Cool car. What did you use to record the video?

That lil 355 would absolutely love a big shot of nitrous. Very, very nice setup.

No specs this time, keeping us in the dark. Sounds good, good throttle response.

What all would be needed to make this work on a tbi 350? I know I would have to put a stall and carb swap it.

Thanks for sharing! My last pass was in 1994. I kinda miss the track. Just got the Camaro back on the road after it sat buried and broken in my garage for 24 years. This car is a blast! 13.5:1 solid roller 406.

just did a l31 4blt main 880 casting swap in my 82 caprice, kept my turbo 350 just had to drill the holes on the flywheel to match up to the converter and she runs amazing

What kinda ET’s did she run in the Nova

Had a 383 with an 8.5 inch ptc converter and a turbo 350 trans with brake and 4.11 rear gear. Drove it everywhere. A good converter can feel tight and locked up while cruising and still flash at the track.

Streetable, sorta.

Also to change up the differences is the first gear 1.80 gear ratio of the power glide. Not saying anything, just throwing it out there. Like your channel, I also happen to grow up there

Your end gaps are way too small

Yep

I think those k motion springs 700 are about 465 lbs open I think for that cam you need about 300 open

A B&M converter is a POS compared to a TCI converter. The car would be 2-4 tenths quicker with a TCI converter.

So any guess how much effect on trans temp would it have with a 3800-4000 lb car and a 3.73 gear? I'd like to put a 3800-4000 converter in my 66 C10 short bed, but I was afraid the extra weight and the taller gear would generate too much slippage/heat. I don't have a trans temp gauge, but i'm running a 2500 stall just to get it to idle in gear right now and haven't had any indications things are getting too hot. Motor is a 10.2:1 358 with a 227/233, .489/.503 cam on a 109 LSA.

damn, cool temps!

Just what I need to see my bu is going back on the street with basically same engine and trans combo with 4.88 gears.Was wondering if converter ,gear and cam change was in my future,Not now looks just fine for 7 mile cruise to town for shows and cruise ins.

What kind of mufflers are those? Sounds good!!

We used to use one with a lock up, and a gear venders overdrive to drive to place to place no trailer nights rock 🎉

You can get one with a lock up now.

I wish you could still get vortex heads for $125

What gas and total timing are you running?

All about the combo. The 4.56 gears, lighter weight, and an engine happy revving all help a lot I think. Love the car and the videos!

It will require the best pump fuel you can buy.

Likewise have run 8" & 9" stuff for years Wilson converters Norman, ok, we both like the 66 an 67 lol...this went 5.90s 1/8 on 235/60-15 drag radials, 421sbc and nx Titan plate, thanks good video no talking, got to hear that motor hum it's music 👍

We..? But youre one dude...

Use alcohol to fill up ports and check for leaks. The surface tension of alcohol is MUCH less than antifreeze, and will leak out at the slightest gap. The antifreeze may not.

Those bearings look like shit for 250 miles.... 😝

Hmm, that's odd.. Doesn't look like the pistons were too tight in the bore. The skirts aren't all scuffed up bad. Strange that they ALL broke in the middle ring land area. He MUST have had the second ring gap too tight. The cam? Well, thats most likely a wrong break-in procedure, extended cranking before it started due to other issues, and/or the wrong oil used. No zinc or use of regular off the shelf oil. The scratches all over the pistons say that it was assembled dirty also.. Not enough fucks were given when putting this thing together. Edit: He MAY have installed the rings right out of the box, and never even filed them.... 🤷🏻

It takes a GOOD converter to be able to flash up over 5000roms on the brake, BUT still be plenty tight enough at part throttle to cruise around more like a stock(ish) converter. The mail order, off the shelf, 10" units are usually garbage, and feel like a wet rag at anything under it's full stall speed. DON'T waste your money on those. Kust pony uo the bucks ONCE, and special order a quality unit MADE for your specific application, and you WILL be able to drive it all day long.

7500 RPM's and only 450h.p.?? That seems a bit odd to me.. 🤔

that quench area though...

engine didnt sound happy at 3600. wanted more rpms prob due to cam specs and heads. sounded great under throttle!

Just have to know where could a guy get a steering wheel like that haven't seen one in a long time

5200 stall on the street? No thank you. Even with enough transmission cooling on board to survive the Converter will make the car drive like it's always on snow in any scenario that isn't WOT to high RPM. Full throttle will be drag race ready for sure but part throttle spongy in all other street driving situations is a way too tough to live with set up, IMO. Could this car be driven to troll for illegal street racing on any given Friday night? Sure! Is it a good trade off for much of any other use? Nope. There is always different ways to get to the same 1/4 mile time. A pure trailer to the track drag racer can easily use a 5,200RPM converter and the smaller displacement, very racy, SBC set up you have in the car right now. A true street/strip that works well with a far more reasonable and far easier to live with stall speed, IMO, can achieve the same times. Lower RPM Stall and a bigger inch SBC could be set up to make big power earlier in the RPM range to achieve similar times. A 3,000-3500RPM stall speed is about as aggressive on the street as I'd ever target for a car that will see street driving along with trips to drag strip for a serious WOT run for the numbers!!

I've found that the quality of the converter will matter more than advertised stall speed. An off the shelf unit is typically garbage. If you want the right stall, get a known company like FTi, PTC, Coan, CircleD, etc. to build one to fit your needs. Nowadays you can build a quality 5500+ stall converter tight enough to drive like stock under normal driving conditions.