I use to run 010 350 blocks with 882s on my s10s back in the day with 175 shot on it. Cheap but it worked. Close to what your doing except for the nos.
@@robertclymer6948 I'm trying to make this faster on a budget. Let me know what direction to head in. I have around 1500.00 in the engine and 350 in the trans and converter. Most of parts are off of craigslist and facebook. Im a hobbyists and have not gone to a machine in years. Looking for tips.
@@nylegreen261 I'm 70 and started racing at 17 and have won a lot of races and seen my name on the wall at a couple different tracks gotta ole Vega Wagon fast 566 eight mile track and just added AFR heads and a Super Victor and haven't gotten to the track!!
I plan on doing work to the heads. I tested six different engines so far. I tried to keep all the heads similar in the first round of the builds.I was curious what the different camshafts would do. I also needed time to learn how to properly port the vortec heads for power.
Mechanical flat tappet is the way to go, super strong and cost effective. Folks whining about "maintenance" are just not real gearheads. I had a comp 294s magnum in a daily driver 81 camaro, 383 stroker, I could leave the valve adjustment alone for 6 months and they would still be good. I ran 12.3 @117mph. Your engine runs GREAT, you got the combbo right, but did you say 60 quench? I would shoot for 35-40, Mr.gasket makes a .020 gasket. I am making assumptions here,, NICE RIDE
I think you left some hp on the table with the 9.7:1. With that much cam, even with the iron heads you could get away with 10.5:1 or more, on 93 octane. I run a similar 106 lsa solid flat tappet 250/260@.050 camshaft and 5000 rpm converter on the street, but aluminum heads, I run 93 octane with 10.95:1, and I probably left some power on the table as well, I bet I could get away with 11.5:1 or more, but next time. As long as it cranks less than 200 psi, it'll likely work with 93 octane. Did Dynamic Racing build that powerglide and converter? If not, they could make you quicker.
I didn't see what size the carb was but i would start jetting down till mph slows. Et will picl up ive had similar setups never needed more then 72 front 4.5 pv 80 rears. 350/iron 200s flat tops stock rods/crank herbert 254/260 534/555 on 106 4400 9" ptc converter 3100# 72 nova 7.20s
Solid numbers for a basic combo. I'd put an AFR gauge on it, get PTC to make a convertor for it and keep chipping away at it. If anything, give Jones Cam Designs a call and get him to grind a cam for it......itll be tamer but run faster
Not a bad idea. Im waiting to see what I can get out of these before I contact the professionals. Im still moving foward at this time. I have a few ideas I would like to try.
Nice build,awesome sound..a little brake torquing at the line will lower your 60' and your et. Sounds like youre launching off idle..you should easily be high 10s in my opinion with what you have
I have checked some. They have been on the numbers with the cam card. I have put in a few that didn't have much piston to valve clearance and ran them as is with out checking numbers. I have had good luck so far.
How did you get the vortec heads to take .515 lift? Everything I’ve read says .50 is the limit. Interested because I’m building a 350 that’s very similar and have been struggling with cam choice
Sorry, I thought you were running a 400, I was wrong. I use to run a 350 in my 73 Corvette with 186 Z-28 heads with flat tops, torquer intake with a holley 800 cfm. It was a fast street car over 40 years ago... I have a fast race car, 66 Chevelle 468, tube chassis car, weighs 2,370 lbs. with driver. 5.62 et. 1/8 at 123 mph. 8.82 et. 1/4 at 152.52 mph. 800 hp. engine. SV1 carb made by pro systems, billet carb 1150 or 1180 cfm. Running without power valves is not good. Causes hesitation in the carb. Jet size has to be 10 sizes bigger after removing power valve, thats what they say. If the engine doesn't have alot of vacuum at idle meed to put a 2.5 power valve in it. What ever the vacuum gage says at idle you are suppose to put a power valve 1" less than the reading...
Cool car. I heard you say your total timing is 34 degrees. What is your initial? With that cam, compression, and heads, I would expect 18 to 20 degrees of initial. If you decked the block or changed pistons to something that can get you .035 or so piston to head, it might make best power with about 32-33 degrees total. You might even lock it out. With an increase in compression you could run a 108 degree lobe separation angle. As well as a bit less exhaust cam timing. It will 60 foot harder.
Timing is locked at 34 degrees. If a changed the piston to head clearance to .035 what would have the greater effect on power quench or compression. What effect would going to a 108 l.s have. I think maybe reducing overlap. Cleaning up the cylinders at lower rpm. Same effect as reducing duration.
Reducing piston to head will increase compression, improve quench, and increase power. A typical 906 head measures 63 cc chamber volume if the valve job isn't sunk. If you could get to .035 piston to head clearance your compression ratio would be right at 10.4:1, all else being equal. If you milled the heads about .010-.011 you will have approximately 61 cc chambers giving you 10.6:1. The increase in compression will improve torque at all speeds and will support the large cams a little better. Increasing the cylinder pressure helps the exhaust get through the head a little bit too, which the 906 casting needs. The 108 degree lobe separation angle is a better complement to the 906 heads with a compression ratio in the 10.5:1 range and stock valve sizes. All other things being equal, the 108 LSA will close the intake valve later than the 106, which will help it breathe in the rpm range you are working with. It will slightly reduce cylinder pressure compared to the 106, too, which might help you on street driving. Though the net change from the higher compression ratio will still be an increase in cylinder pressure and torque over your current combo.
Nice thank you. I was thinking I would keep the same intake centerline @102 and move the exhaust side to get the 108 l.s. I want to try higher compression. Im worried I won't be able to run on pump gas.
@@nylegreen261 If you install the cam with a 108 lsa on a 102 degree intake centerline, it will be 6 degrees advanced. This will close the intake valve earlier, increasing cylinder pressure. That could increase fuel octane requirements. I am confident that you can bump the compression as I described, and with a 108 degree lsa cam installed on a 104-105 degree intake centerline you will still be able to use typical pump fuel.
Mind if i jump in i have an almost identical engine build going into my 81 c10 longbed. my static came out @ 10.4.1 with a .19 gasket, .43 ptv wondering on how much cam to put in to still run on pump or how youd approach it maybe install cam 4 deg retarded or back off timing?
Man if you blend the bowls all the way and tear drop the valve guid bosses into the runner and do a 4 or 5 angle valve job and back cut all the valves you will pickup between 50 and 80 HP...just lapping those valves in is killing the flow especially on the intake side...if you fix those heads you will run 10s very easy.... IV picked up 8 tenths in the 1/8th on my own car just by doing exactly that to my heads....
Check your cylinder pressure. That's a big cam, I would think 10.5:1 CR would be ideal. Also higher ratio rockers with the correct geometry would help.
I have been a little nervous going over .500 lift with the vortec heads. In the flow numbers I have seen they are turbulent above .500 lift. I wouldn't want to buy a cam to test. But if I found a good deal on some 1.6 rockers I would test this.
You'll need springs with a seat height of 1.8" , I run a solid roller with 1.7 ratio rockers and the lift is .603 on the intake and the spring seat height is 1.8 but you'll need .1" longer valves. The heads I'm running are the old school bowtie's from the 80s , In your case with flat tappet valves and running on the street, you best stay put. @@nylegreen261
I wish more people would make videos this way. None of the upgrades matter unless they are tested at the track. Great video
Thank you. That is the best part.
For the sum of the parts you have made a great running car. I have seen many with more 'trick parts' not even run that good. Nice job.
Thank you. Im going to try to get the times down a little further. Should have a video out in a few weeks.
I think you've got the combo thing figured out, I really admire your engine builds!
Nice. Thank you
That is impressive times for a bare bones 350 in a world full of ls swaps
Thank you.. Yes a very inexpensive and simple set up. I will try to push the times lower.
Ls engines run good but are ugly and don’t sound as cool as gen 1 small blocks
I love these vids you putting out on the real impressive 350vortec,please keep posting vids on this car with these setups❤💪💪🔥👍🏻👌🤞💯
Nice thank you.
@nylegreen261 Thank You Very Much Nyle🤝
very good recipe and combination I will use it in my SBC thank you
Thank you
@@nylegreen261Sir, do you have an email to tell us about it?
I use to run 010 350 blocks with 882s on my s10s back in the day with 175 shot on it. Cheap but it worked. Close to what your doing except for the nos.
Nice sounds like fun
my favorite Nova body
I like the front clip suspension, rack and pinion probably coil over shocks! Nice Bracket car!!
Nice Ride! You gave a lot of information that can be used if possible. Thanks for the video. Again, that car is awesome.
Thank you
Great video and nice progress! It will be exciting to see the comparison with the powerglide and the 8” converter.
Nice thank you. I was pushing through beams to stall the tci 3500 stall up.
I was wanting to see the powerglide to compare here...
lol, needs more then that.
@@robertclymer6948 I'm trying to make this faster on a budget. Let me know what direction to head in. I have around 1500.00 in the engine and 350 in the trans and converter. Most of parts are off of craigslist and facebook. Im a hobbyists and have not gone to a machine in years. Looking for tips.
@@nylegreen261 maybe because it looks so good and the beautiful motor I was thinking 10's. My bad.
Love it, go bracket racing its a great car to win races fast cars spin or break out trying to judge you ! Nice mph for your ET!!😊😊❤
Thank you. I have always wanted to try bracket racing. I have to figure out how to hit a good light..
@@nylegreen261 I'm 70 and started racing at 17 and have won a lot of races and seen my name on the wall at a couple different tracks gotta ole Vega Wagon fast 566 eight mile track and just added AFR heads and a Super Victor and haven't gotten to the track!!
Nice good luck to you. Sounds like alot of fun over the years.
Wow thats genuinely impressive
Kinda cool with that low stall you can really hear the cam come onto its powerband.
You can feel it tart to pull good around 5500 on up. It has a fun powerband.
Nice job on the video, beautiful car!
Thank you
Good job.
Thank you.
Good job, its hauling
Thanks. This budget stuff is fun.
Be very interested in seeing you put more work into the port and valve jobs before changing the transmission.
Knock .020” off the heads while they are off
I plan on doing work to the heads. I tested six different engines so far. I tried to keep all the heads similar in the first round of the builds.I was curious what the different camshafts would do. I also needed time to learn how to properly port the vortec heads for power.
I have a standard bore 350 vortec heads lunauti 268 cam with a
504 lift air gap intake. Can't wait to take it to the track to see what it does.
Dr. Bob says with that low compression try 38° a timing all in 🤠
I will try it. I will take it to the track in the next couple of weeks.
Yes, by the way nice combination, 👍
Mechanical flat tappet is the way to go, super strong and cost effective. Folks whining about "maintenance" are just not real gearheads. I had a comp 294s magnum in a daily driver 81 camaro, 383 stroker, I could leave the valve adjustment alone for 6 months and they would still be good. I ran 12.3 @117mph. Your engine runs GREAT, you got the combbo right, but did you say 60 quench? I would shoot for 35-40, Mr.gasket makes a .020 gasket. I am making assumptions here,, NICE RIDE
Was expecting a much better time slip. Bog off the line. What is the idle timing set at?
I've got 34 locked. I was pushing through the converter. It is a cheap tci street converter.
Ahhhh i want that intake. They come on earlier than most. Or the advertisement says it does
Nice it looks similar to the super victor. I found it for 150 on Craigslist. It seems to work well.
Lots left in those heads with a little bowl work but for sure it did well.
I'm looking forward to doing port work, then testing again. Slowly get faster as I learn.
Well done Mr Green. Great video and nicely narrated. What's your RPM crossing the line?
This one is around 6700rpm I believe. Thank you
VERY NICE , HOW MUCH DOES THE CAR WEIGH ?
3000 lbs with driver
I think you left some hp on the table with the 9.7:1. With that much cam, even with the iron heads you could get away with 10.5:1 or more, on 93 octane. I run a similar 106 lsa solid flat tappet 250/260@.050 camshaft and 5000 rpm converter on the street, but aluminum heads, I run 93 octane with 10.95:1, and I probably left some power on the table as well, I bet I could get away with 11.5:1 or more, but next time. As long as it cranks less than 200 psi, it'll likely work with 93 octane. Did Dynamic Racing build that powerglide and converter? If not, they could make you quicker.
Well done!
How far are you from Byron?
I'm about 35 minutes west of US41
Nice I'm a 90 minutes away from both us 41 and byron.
@@nylegreen261 what gears and size slicks
@@nylegreen261 did you have nos
No nos. 29x10 Hoosier slick and th350 tci 3500 stall
I didn't see what size the carb was but i would start jetting down till mph slows. Et will picl up ive had similar setups never needed more then 72 front 4.5 pv 80 rears.
350/iron 200s flat tops stock rods/crank herbert 254/260 534/555 on 106
4400 9" ptc converter 3100# 72 nova 7.20s
Nice I love seeing combos. Im running a holley 750 hp. I take it you are running a 750 also.
WAY, faster than I thought
Solid numbers for a basic combo. I'd put an AFR gauge on it, get PTC to make a convertor for it and keep chipping away at it. If anything, give Jones Cam Designs a call and get him to grind a cam for it......itll be tamer but run faster
Not a bad idea. Im waiting to see what I can get out of these before I contact the professionals. Im still moving foward at this time. I have a few ideas I would like to try.
Jones cams are definitely something else. They really know what they are doing. I will say hydro Rlr cam from them really woke up my SBC.!
What gear you running?
I wonder what a different intake would do? not familiar with that intake.
I do have a super victor and a rpm air gap to try. The super victor intake looks very similar.
Very nice
Nice build,awesome sound..a little brake torquing at the line will lower your 60' and your et. Sounds like youre launching off idle..you should easily be high 10s in my opinion with what you have
Do you degree your cams per the cam card or run it straight up?
I have checked some. They have been on the numbers with the cam card. I have put in a few that didn't have much piston to valve clearance and ran them as is with out checking numbers. I have had good luck so far.
Nice more stall with either trans should improve times
I'm very curious to see if my powerglide and 5500 stall will pick up. I just got it installed.
More information I can use, strait forward no bullshit video. Put a converter in the 3 speed.
I like your angle. Starting line gear ratio is important. Thank you.
How did you get the vortec heads to take .515 lift? Everything I’ve read says .50 is the limit. Interested because I’m building a 350 that’s very similar and have been struggling with cam choice
What rearend🤠
12 bolt 4.56 gear
How gear ratio you have?
4.56 rear gear.
How much does your car weigh?
Its around 3000 lbs with driver.
What does this car weigh ?
3000 lbs with driver
@@nylegreen261 thank you o figured close to that 🙂
Sorry, I thought you were running a 400, I was wrong. I use to run a 350 in my 73 Corvette with 186 Z-28 heads with flat tops, torquer intake with a holley 800 cfm. It was a fast street car over 40 years ago... I have a fast race car, 66 Chevelle 468, tube chassis car, weighs 2,370 lbs. with driver. 5.62 et. 1/8 at 123 mph. 8.82 et. 1/4 at 152.52 mph. 800 hp. engine. SV1 carb made by pro systems, billet carb 1150 or 1180 cfm. Running without power valves is not good. Causes hesitation in the carb. Jet size has to be 10 sizes bigger after removing power valve, thats what they say. If the engine doesn't have alot of vacuum at idle meed to put a 2.5 power valve in it. What ever the vacuum gage says at idle you are suppose to put a power valve 1" less than the reading...
Good information thank you. Nice I would like to get ahold of a set of 186 heads. Sounds like a fun car.
Cool car. I heard you say your total timing is 34 degrees. What is your initial? With that cam, compression, and heads, I would expect 18 to 20 degrees of initial.
If you decked the block or changed pistons to something that can get you .035 or so piston to head, it might make best power with about 32-33 degrees total. You might even lock it out.
With an increase in compression you could run a 108 degree lobe separation angle. As well as a bit less exhaust cam timing. It will 60 foot harder.
Timing is locked at 34 degrees. If a changed the piston to head clearance to .035 what would have the greater effect on power quench or compression. What effect would going to a 108 l.s have. I think maybe reducing overlap. Cleaning up the cylinders at lower rpm. Same effect as reducing duration.
Reducing piston to head will increase compression, improve quench, and increase power. A typical 906 head measures 63 cc chamber volume if the valve job isn't sunk. If you could get to .035 piston to head clearance your compression ratio would be right at 10.4:1, all else being equal. If you milled the heads about .010-.011 you will have approximately 61 cc chambers giving you 10.6:1. The increase in compression will improve torque at all speeds and will support the large cams a little better. Increasing the cylinder pressure helps the exhaust get through the head a little bit too, which the 906 casting needs.
The 108 degree lobe separation angle is a better complement to the 906 heads with a compression ratio in the 10.5:1 range and stock valve sizes. All other things being equal, the 108 LSA will close the intake valve later than the 106, which will help it breathe in the rpm range you are working with. It will slightly reduce cylinder pressure compared to the 106, too, which might help you on street driving. Though the net change from the higher compression ratio will still be an increase in cylinder pressure and torque over your current combo.
Nice thank you. I was thinking I would keep the same intake centerline @102 and move the exhaust side to get the 108 l.s. I want to try higher compression. Im worried I won't be able to run on pump gas.
@@nylegreen261 If you install the cam with a 108 lsa on a 102 degree intake centerline, it will be 6 degrees advanced. This will close the intake valve earlier, increasing cylinder pressure. That could increase fuel octane requirements.
I am confident that you can bump the compression as I described, and with a 108 degree lsa cam installed on a 104-105 degree intake centerline you will still be able to use typical pump fuel.
Mind if i jump in i have an almost identical engine build going into my 81 c10 longbed. my static came out @ 10.4.1 with a .19 gasket, .43 ptv wondering on how much cam to put in to still run on pump or how youd approach it maybe install cam 4 deg retarded or back off timing?
Man if you blend the bowls all the way and tear drop the valve guid bosses into the runner and do a 4 or 5 angle valve job and back cut all the valves you will pickup between 50 and 80 HP...just lapping those valves in is killing the flow especially on the intake side...if you fix those heads you will run 10s very easy.... IV picked up 8 tenths in the 1/8th on my own car just by doing exactly that to my heads....
Nice i do plan on doing head porting comparisons. It would be nice to see extra power.
Check your cylinder pressure. That's a big cam, I would think 10.5:1 CR would be ideal. Also higher ratio rockers with the correct geometry would help.
Cylinder pressure on my gauge was 168 psi. Im at my limit on just about every measurement on this one. Coil bind, piston to valve, retainer to seal.
It's a has solid tamp ..106 separation.. and 20/1000 separation hole...less compression for street use..he'll be fine.
If you run higher ratio rockers retard the cam, 3 to 4 degrees for 1.65:1 rockers.
I have been a little nervous going over .500 lift with the vortec heads. In the flow numbers I have seen they are turbulent above .500 lift. I wouldn't want to buy a cam to test. But if I found a good deal on some 1.6 rockers I would test this.
You'll need springs with a seat height of 1.8" , I run a solid roller with 1.7 ratio rockers and the lift is .603 on the intake and the spring seat height is 1.8 but you'll need .1" longer valves. The heads I'm running are the old school bowtie's from the 80s , In your case with flat tappet valves and running on the street, you best stay put. @@nylegreen261
4500 stall and keep the T350 its making decent power for what it is
Wouldnt run 38 deg as someone suggested too much you probably know that already
Nice, I found a deal on a 8 inch Coan converter. It should stall around 5000 rpm.
Cool but please center the steering wheel.