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I had the same issue. Your solution works perfectly in my case. However I didn't apt glue, simply I tighten more the 4 screws that attach the lens to the body and put a little bit of double side tape in the back of the lens in order to the back body press firmly the lens insidithe main body.Thsnks a lot for share this with all!!!
HI Darren, I have the same issue on the onboard footage, somehow on the dvr I don´t have the issue - what do you think? is it the same problem as in yours?
@@DarrenAllatt thanks for your advice, today I better soft mounted the camera - with silcon spacer and some pading underneath the camera to absorb the frequenzy and vibration. I was surpriced it really worked - I do have now smoth footage on the onboard with EIS
Bro! Thanks a lot! Same problem here! PWM changed from 28 to 48khz and NOW the Rocksteady is working just awesome!! 🙌🏻 I was struggling with this since the O3 came out! Subscribed! 👍🏻
@@DarrenAllatt Thanks. I've heard that too. But, I got curious to know your experience... ☺️ By the way, your video inspired me to do the same with mine. I'm doing it at this very moment... So, the ideia is to "lock it in place" with the glue, right? Thanks brother.
Thanks for the good solution. Not for this O3 unit but I use B-7000 glue for lots of joint and threaded points. Quite sticky but can remove cleanly and absorbs shock on vibrations. IMO working good.
Superglue anyway. We’re talking about micro jitters, so any movement, and if there was you would basically have blurry FPV footage when you’re flying because of how much movement there would be
@DarrenAllatt so I think this is my issue. Here's the thing, rocksteady could tune it out, but when you turned eis off and tried gyroflow, you can't tune it out. I took my camera apart last week and found it not to be lose. Wish I saw this video sooner, I would have put some glue in there! Oh well, gonna take it apart and glue it. Thanks!
Darren, thank you for this.... PLEASE let DJI know this is a problem so they can fix it. This is not a good solution for a 2+ hundred dollar item. They need to fix this but they won't unless people let them know. Please let them know.
@@DarrenAllatt Did you send them this video? I haven't noticed this on my O3 units. I wonder what caused it on yours.... I hope I don't have to do this.
started a 5 inch drone kit on Allie . it doesn't seam to have internal 5v bec on board either the ESC or the FC . the kit supplies an external 5v UBEC . i was told to wire the Ubec to the xt60 pad + - . and then over to any available 5v ground on the FC . is this right?
readytosky with aoccoda fc 4 build pkg . now they finally answer back and say I don't need the ubec . i could not tell weather the esc or fc had a 5c or not. they say i can use the ubec with the camera? confusing
Do you think maybe the screws were just a little loose? I took my camera apart and could not feel any play in the removed camera. I put mine back together without adding glue and think it has helped a lot with vibration issues. I have also tightened up the screws on a few other O3 air units without even removing it from the front housing and think I have had good results with this too.
@@DarrenAllatt Mine didn’t seem noticeably loose but I was able to tighten them just a tiny bit. I think you may have done this when putting your camera back together. The glue might be unnecessary. If you have another camera with the issue, you should try tightening the screws just a little first to see if that’s what really fixed the issue on the first one.
Well, we know for fact the ESC needs to be on 48khz pwm, so definitely do that, as for hard mount vs soft mount - still to be decided because I have 1 quad with hard mounting that's smooth as butter and one that isnt.
I just have the same Issue and will try your Solution. Can you tell me how to change the PWM Setting? I am really new to this Topics^^ I looked for it in Betaflight but could not find this Settings.
I had same issue from the beginning, but after changing PVM to 96 KHZ it helped. Just realised that once i dive with throttle 0, footage in goggles shake (and once throttle is back on, problem - gone). While replaying video from air unit on the computer, no shake on the dive. Maybe any ideas? I mounted camera in tpu cage, slided it in without any screws. Maybe it is the problem? But why it occurs only on the dive. Any adeas? Thanks!
It seems that your pid tune is the issue which is why you see them in the goggles, and the stabilisation is removing them from the recording. Why did you go for 96khz instead of 48?
Just realized that you are DazBot! How's the o3? I'm planning to put it on an open racer build, is it durable enough to withstand minor to major crashes? 🙏
I'm just surprised that DJI hasn't fixed this between batches during manufacturing, even if it was to just add the adhesive like you did during assembly!
I get it as well on a brand new clean build. I was getting mad thinking it was actually a bad gyro or something. Looked into blackbox and these 1-5 degrees gyro movements are actually there. How do you know it's not the actual vibration/oscillation of the actual quad rather than just the camera, in your case too?
I don’t know it’s not the quad, but I didn’t have them when it had a Vista in it. So it’s really a process of elimination to find and solve the issue. Like for me, which solution should I try first? $2 superglue or $60 frame. The super glue is a no-brained before getting a new frame
@@DarrenAllatt He just mentioned the fact and that's it really. I guess we'll need to build a critical mass in order for that to be properly raised and addressed. I watched a lot of O3 footage on youtube yesterday and the vast majority of it has this very same issue! So it's widespread and it's definitely an issue.
Hello Darren, i have a question, if buy an 03 AU and install it in my own quad platform with GPS, will i have to connect my goggles 2 to GPS in order to arm ? Thank you
could you also recommend a sub 250 bnf . that I could utilize with my FS -16 controller and enchine 800d googles . I am trying to Train without too much drain . and use my budget equipment .
To be frank, that radio is well and truly old and you’d be hard pressed to find any BnF that comes with FLYSKY today. I’d recommend a second hand radio like a used TX16S, or any of the newer radios with built in ELRS to give you more options, will he better in the long term and open up more possibilities I’m sorry, FPV isn’t something you can do on a small budget- good gear is worth it and will hold value while cheap gear is Just burning money. I’d go with a GepRC smart 35 once you go to buy a BNF
@@Koolaidban There are no O3 sub-250 Bind & Fly quads at the moment as all of the frames are too narrow to house the camera. Foxeer come the closest with 257g dry weight, they have the Aura 3.5" in DJI O3 which is a BnF, they also have the Aura 4" however I haven't seen them in person, the product photos show the camera mounted ahead of the standoffs by TPU, which I don't like at all as you will smash the camera in a head on crash. But, in Jon E5 Drones video on DJI 10 Bit colour, he shows the Aura 3.5" for a moment with the camera mounted between the standoffs giving it the necessary protection. If you wanted to build, I would suggest the Ummagawd 2 Fiddy 3.5"/4" (use 3.5" props) or the Quadmula F3 Siren Split seems to be an option too. My 2Fiddy 3.5" comes in at 242g with 4S 550mah or 266g with 6S 450mah There is also the AOS 3.5 v2 O3 (I personally don't like the AOS frames)
i'd give a word of warning, CA glue (super glue) can off-gas and permanently 'fog up' if you apply too much in an enclosed area, so be real careful using it near a camera sensor
@@alpinegoat personally i would go for some liquid electrical tape or something similar, so its not a permanent connection but wont let them vibrate apart, but obviously CA glue worked in this case, you just wanna be careful with how much you use
@@LuckyMoniker thanks I appreciate the reply. I’m dealing with this problem on 2 units so with one I will try this and the other I’m in contact with DJI support. No luck yet. They just suggested PWM frequency, rolling shutter effect, soft mount it, and have you tried tightening and loosening the mounting screws. Ended up stripping one… nothing has helped so far.
I did all of the suggested solutions, glue on lens, 48khz pwm, good frame and props, camera isolation with dampners, and I still get horrible jello with my Cinebot 30 and dji 03 air unit. HELP
Thats cool, $230 for the new air unit and you have to take it apart and glue the lens together lol, sounds like DJI. On a serious note, thank you for the video and the info, this may save one of us in the future!
I’ve never had any issues in 3 years of using Dji vistas, cameras, og airunits, and now after installing 3, 03’s in quads they all work flawlessly. Keep your biased bring nothing to the table opinions to yourself
@@creationlabsinc.189 Sorry dude, spoony is spot on. There are numerous ways DJI has shit the bed so to say over the years. Just because you got lucky with yours, or maybe just don't notice it, doesn't mean the issue isn't widespread. It's clearly a pretty common/widespread issue, which in turn makes it pretty pathetic from an R&D standpoint as DJI should have noticed this and fixed accordingly. And yes, when a customer spends $230 on a product, they expect it to work flawlessly. To have to open said brand new product up to fix it, that's not right or okay by any means. Clearly, you are the salty DJI dick rider "pilot" here with nothing to offer. Sometimes it's best just to keep the yapper shut, maybe someday you'll learn that haha.
Hey Jerry, no it's not actually. I am going to assume it's the original TX16S (version 1, not the current "Mk 2") For example, the new Radiomaster Boxer is listed on PhaserFPV for $230, even though it's not in stock, but it will be within a month or two once Radiomaster start delivering them to stores. The Gimbals on the Boxer are the same as the TX16S, but the Boxer has the same V4 Gimbals as the latest TX16S Mk2, while the original TX16S has I think the V1 gimbals. So thats a big jump. The Boxer is just a simplified version of the TX16S with less switches, and a better form factor (its in-between the TX12 and TX16S size wise). If you go with the ELRS version it has 1w of output power, but also is available in a JP4in1 version. To get an original (3 year old) TX16S for $235 when a brand new Boxer is just around the corner. It's not a good deal IMO. I would feel that $150 is a fair price for that Radio. But if its the TX16S Mk2 then $235 is a good deal.
@@DarrenAllatt I keep researching all theses controllers . and the TX16S MK2 seams to be the best budget controller. just buy it and save money by not buying all the other ones first. then end up at TX16S after all. just seams like such a safe bet.
@@Koolaidban if you're starting off I'd say go straight to ELRS protocols on both transmitters and receivers. Don't waste time with the others and then having to resolder receivers or attach modules to your radio. For the radio really depends on how sure you are you'll be in the hobby. The Boxer and Zorro are great but like you said, eventually you'll likely swap to a tx16s. If you're a pincher you might like the boxer more because of the form factor - not sure.
@@RedCobraH 100% I am doing ELRS Protocols. i think 100% TX16S For my first controller as well. now the HD zero or DJI 02 googles decision is up next for me. and drone purchase. probably iflight nazgul. love this Hobby
@@Koolaidban O3 vs HDZero comes down to what you're looking to do. In my opinion, if you're doing freestyle or racing, get hdzero. If you're doing long range or cinematic, get dji. Even though I think HDZero might get more range with the 1W VTX at 540p60fps, not sure. But DJI has a stunning camera quality.
Is it a camera defect? I wonder if they refund money for such a defect or replace the camera with a new one. Maybe there is a series of cameras with this particular defect?
maybe it is, but I tend to not worry about warranty for fpv products unless its DOA because you end up having to fight the manufacturer to prove its them and not me.
My issue was the PWM frequency, went away when I changed it to 48 kHz. Was not noticible at all in the unstabilized footage. If it helps anyone, my issue presented itself as "jiggling" in the roll axis when stabilizing the footage in Gyroflow. This was on my Nazgul Evoque F5 V2 BNF.
@@lopesdev RUclips channel Mads Tech has a video covering all the possible solutions including the PWM frequency. He has a video called "DJI O3 FPV Image Vibration Issues ? How To Fix".
Hi Darren, I have the 5inch version of the 2fiddy and having the same issue. With the solution, are you still soft mounted or are you soft mounted still? One more question, how did you soft mount it with the 2fiddy camera cage? Wondering if I try the solution, if it works without soft mounting.
One thing I didn't see mentioned here- BE CAREFUL about rotating the lens when you're checking for wiggle or applying glue. Turning it will change the focus point of the camera, and if you accidentally glue it in place where the image is blurry (like me) that would SUCK.
Thanks for the video! My video looks pretty good while flying and with stabilization off. But on all three of my builds when rocksteady is turned on I get a lot of shaking and vibration. Was yours with rocksteady on and off?
I have 6 drones now that I've upgraded or built with the DJI-03 and haven't had an issue yet that wasn't a frame or mounting issue. Actually I've only had one that I had to deal with any jello at all on and it was just a frame issue that I easily rectified. Sounds like you had a bad camera but glad it's resolved. Of course the warranty is void now, but that comes with the territory. Hope you have better luck with future 03's if you install more!
DJI goes even more into DIY. With the Action 3 you can turn the lens 15° out to get a sharp focus and here you have to glue the lens in its place which is ridiculous? if the lens it THAT loose in the barrel, it would fall out of it or has no chance to get a focus all over the whole picture. there is some information lost in transfer. i rather would check the inner parts not good connected to the outer parts which have contact (screws) to the frame. all other things are no complete story. Because: we learned we have to hard mount, then the stabilisation can work better. if we soft mount, one shake has not ideal flanks of rising movement for the gyroflow or other systems. if there is a gap between the inner parts, a lot of tubers solved it with soft mount, in this case better than nothing, but the solution is still: Hard mount it! maybe you did id with open and better closing the case, maybe not with the glue. i will follow this and i guess Chris rosser will put out a video soon about that.
@@DarrenAllatt normally the hard mount is better for every anti shake reduction. soft mount is not that easy to calculate out the bouncing from whatever material is used. they just dont know the movement from the soft mount, but they always can calculate with the direct own gyro data. a few years ago soft mount was better, but this has changed.
@@rolliseventeen Hey Rolli, Actually, it's come back now full circle that soft mounting is better to absorb vibrations. However hard vs soft mount debate aside. DJI themselves in the O3 Manual recommend soft mounting
@@DarrenAllatt i know, i saw this. there is also a few units arund which had loos lens barrel. its not clear what type of problem or solution is best for all atm. some made a fix to the lens barrel and it helped. its just DJI, best product, but not best QC.
Hello, I need help! - I have a new set of DJI Goggles 2 and a New Dji Air Unit... I want to simply run the camera without a flight controller so I can install it in an RC Car. All I need to know is how to get power to the Air Unit using an independant 4s Battery. I don't need all the OSD stuff, Just powered on, so I can install the Firmware on both the Goggles and the Air Unit. What cable do I need to make up to get this going? ( I also have a fan and a heat sink ready for it too) There has to be a simple way to power it up surely without '' all the quad gear '' If anyone can help me, I'd be willing to pay for your time. I live in Australia and really want to use the system. I have searched what seems like the entirety of RUclips for what I've just explained, But everything is about quadcopters. Hopefully someone can help me out here. Many thanks in advance.
As you saw in the video, I went through a process of elimination to get to the end problem. The setup also isn’t Jank because there were no vibrations in the video when I had a Vista on it. All that’s changed is the video system. So by the process of elimination to fix it, and not jumping straight to camera problems / you can see where the issue actually was.
Dji probably knew about this issue from the beginning. The amount of money people are paying for this product it should be fixed at the factory and recall the ones that are defective.
@@DarrenAllatt or better just buy proper design frame in the first place :D All frames I have tested with carbon and aluminium camera mounts were always the issue and zero benefits. As the best "TPU Mount" is just two TPU tabs that go on the front stand off and holds the camera. They can extend forward like on a cinewhoop and this frame design.. but usually, goes inside on a proper freestyle frame.
Others have reported loose cameras in the housing. Also, there are some camera that did not come with the adhesive installed from DJI. Seems like you got lucky because 2 out of 3 cameras were loose in my experience.
@@DarrenAllatt Hard mounted right now. Its a speedybee HD frame that comes with a hard mount. Their website says a tpu print file is an option. The website says a file will be provided to pilots to modify but I never received that. I emailed them today to try to get that file. I saw iFlight is selling a silicone mount as a fix for this issue. They are saying tpu may not be enough. "Since the DJI O3 gyro logger is far more sensitive than expected and wont (probably) be fixed with a software update neither, we decided to be proactive. New silicone vibration damping inserts have been designed to replace the commonly used TPU ones, which are holding the O3 cam in the side panels."
I believe they’ve fixed the lose issue. My first one came from the first batch sent out. It was lose and glue fixed it. My other 3 were in later batches. All have the black adhesive
@@onclefly8450 all video transmitters do that. You have 1w of RF “noise” above a GPS. The easiest way to make sure you get quick gps lock is to have your gps wired from a 5v pad that gets power from usb. Then before you go to fly, plug in a 5v battery to the usb of your fc and wait for a lock before you power on your drone via a lipo.
So you did DJI repair centers job for them. They now owe you the hourly fee they pay to those workers for making your own repair. This is unacceptable from DJI to mass produce the 03 air unit and its not sealed for condensation and the cameras come brand new wiggling lile this? Unacceptable. Glad you were able to tinker with it and make it work for you! I think DJI expected a bunch of ppl building their own drone would think they did something wrong on the build themselves. Here it's all their fault.
You got lucky with the ribbon cable I think, normally it should stay attached when the back of the camera is removed, but it pulled out together... lucky no damage! But a good find, I know now what to check if it happens.
@@DarrenAllatt I actually did that right away, I don't know what's up but the recording isn't coming through very good and I have all HD equipment. Hmmmmm? O-well
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I had the same issue. Your solution works perfectly in my case. However I didn't apt glue, simply I tighten more the 4 screws that attach the lens to the body and put a little bit of double side tape in the back of the lens in order to the back body press firmly the lens insidithe main body.Thsnks a lot for share this with all!!!
Glad it helped !
Glad I could help! Thanks for the credit!
HI Darren, I have the same issue on the onboard footage, somehow on the dvr I don´t have the issue - what do you think? is it the same problem as in yours?
Go through the trouble shooting process:
1) soft mount
2) esc firmware
3) frame rigidity
4) camera
And see what it is.
@@DarrenAllatt thanks for your advice, today I better soft mounted the camera - with silcon spacer and some pading underneath the camera to absorb the frequenzy and vibration. I was surpriced it really worked - I do have now smoth footage on the onboard with EIS
Thanks a lot !! I did the 48khz esc + glue on cam and now.... No more jitter/jello !!! What a relief 🎉
🎉🎉
Bro! Thanks a lot! Same problem here! PWM changed from 28 to 48khz and NOW the Rocksteady is working just awesome!! 🙌🏻 I was struggling with this since the O3 came out! Subscribed! 👍🏻
Glad I could help! Thanks for the Sub!
🙌🏽
Did you do/have to do the glue option at the camera base? Or all of your issues go away with just the pwm frequency change?
@@Rueges Just the change on the pwm freq solved it for me.
@@Rueges I tested every fix before I arrived at the “glue”. So PWM, failed. Soft Mount, failed. Glue, fix.
I saw that post too. I just ordered an 03 air unit so this is great info. Thanks for showing how to take the cam apart too. Love the channel, man.
Thanks Flip, much appreciated 🙏
What if you now go back to 24kHz? Will it came back?
Yes. Interference with the gyro on the camera.
Amazing i crash my nazgul change camera i have a feeling is the same issue thanks
Could you please tell if you were getting these jitters in the goggles dvr as well?
They weren’t as pronounced in the goggles.
Wow that’s a hectic fix! Havnt heard of that issue before? Mine was having heaps of problems but a new 3D cam mount fixed it thankfully.
That's awesome! Thanks! I was wondering... Did you get the PWM to 24khz again?
no, because it would cause interference with the internal gyro of the camera. needs to be above 24khz
@@DarrenAllatt Thanks. I've heard that too. But, I got curious to know your experience... ☺️ By the way, your video inspired me to do the same with mine. I'm doing it at this very moment... So, the ideia is to "lock it in place" with the glue, right? Thanks brother.
@@NatanRufino yes! nice job!
Thankfully mine like that out the box! Looks amazing just need figure best setting for it.
Is this for the recorded video or for the live feed? My live feed does not shake but my rocksteady video had a little shake on throttle blips.
Recorded
darren problem is in live video and/or rec vide0?.thx for video bro.
Thanks for the good solution. Not for this O3 unit but I use B-7000 glue for lots of joint and threaded points. Quite sticky but can remove cleanly and absorbs shock on vibrations. IMO working good.
That sounds like a way better solution than super-glue!
I use this stuff all over my house, even cellphone repairs. Mine doesn't dry clear though.
Same problem here. Try 48k, 96k and soft mount the camera. None of these work. Will give this a try. Thanks mate!
tried and fixedd
So when you tried to wiggle the camera, once you disassembled it, did the camera feel loose? Or you just put superglue in there anyway?
Superglue anyway. We’re talking about micro jitters, so any movement, and if there was you would basically have blurry FPV footage when you’re flying because of how much movement there would be
@DarrenAllatt so I think this is my issue. Here's the thing, rocksteady could tune it out, but when you turned eis off and tried gyroflow, you can't tune it out. I took my camera apart last week and found it not to be lose. Wish I saw this video sooner, I would have put some glue in there! Oh well, gonna take it apart and glue it. Thanks!
Darren, thank you for this.... PLEASE let DJI know this is a problem so they can fix it. This is not a good solution for a 2+ hundred dollar item. They need to fix this but they won't unless people let them know. Please let them know.
I’ve sent it to their support. Let’s see how it goes.
run at 20 hz try that
@@DarrenAllatt any news from support?
@@vadimosochenko2528 no news
@@DarrenAllatt Did you send them this video? I haven't noticed this on my O3 units. I wonder what caused it on yours.... I hope I don't have to do this.
Thanks! Is this the "pwm frequency low" settting for the 48 khz ??
Which version of BLHeli is that?
I have same issue , took it apart last night and didn’t notice any play , but i ll adding súper glue to it for sure
Did it work for you?
started a 5 inch drone kit on Allie . it doesn't seam to have internal 5v bec on board either the ESC or the FC . the kit supplies an external 5v UBEC . i was told to wire the Ubec to the xt60 pad + - . and then over to any available 5v ground on the FC . is this right?
What was the kit you bought?
readytosky with aoccoda fc 4 build pkg . now they finally answer back and say I don't need the ubec . i could not tell weather the esc or fc had a 5c or not. they say i can use the ubec with the camera? confusing
The 03 system can run directly off 6S, but not 5v. So wire directly to vbat, with the main batt leads 👍
Is it the 2fiddy 5inch right? Props aren't in view cause you are in wide mode and not in ultrawide right?
3.5” using 4” Arms
@@DarrenAllatt thank you!
Do you think maybe the screws were just a little loose? I took my camera apart and could not feel any play in the removed camera. I put mine back together without adding glue and think it has helped a lot with vibration issues. I have also tightened up the screws on a few other O3 air units without even removing it from the front housing and think I have had good results with this too.
That's another possibility, however they didnt seem to be loose when I removed them to remove the camera
@@DarrenAllatt Mine didn’t seem noticeably loose but I was able to tighten them just a tiny bit. I think you may have done this when putting your camera back together. The glue might be unnecessary. If you have another camera with the issue, you should try tightening the screws just a little first to see if that’s what really fixed the issue on the first one.
Which antenna connector goes to which terminal on the unit? Does it make a difference?
No difference.
Thanks for this
Have you tested more than one flight?
Are all steps necessary or just the last step?
probably just the last step
Well, we know for fact the ESC needs to be on 48khz pwm, so definitely do that, as for hard mount vs soft mount - still to be decided because I have 1 quad with hard mounting that's smooth as butter and one that isnt.
I just have the same Issue and will try your Solution.
Can you tell me how to change the PWM Setting? I am really new to this Topics^^
I looked for it in Betaflight but could not find this Settings.
It’s in the esc configuration and depends on what esc you have.
how do you record with the o3 air unit? i insert sd card to both DJI O3 air unit and DJI goggles 2, but the O3 air unit did not record anything.
Have you got your tx and rx hooked up correctly? In the menu there is a setting about recording to air unit and goggles
How can I change to the 48 khz? Does that work in Betaflight or how do you do that?
In the ESC-Configuration tool
@@DarrenAllatt What’s the Name of this Tool?
@@bfd6946 which ESC do you have?
@@DarrenAllatt the Betafpv Pavo Pico V2 - F4 2-3S 20A AIO FC V1
@@bfd6946 esc-configurator.com
I had same issue from the beginning, but after changing PVM to 96 KHZ it helped. Just realised that once i dive with throttle 0, footage in goggles shake (and once throttle is back on, problem - gone). While replaying video from air unit on the computer, no shake on the dive. Maybe any ideas? I mounted camera in tpu cage, slided it in without any screws. Maybe it is the problem? But why it occurs only on the dive. Any adeas? Thanks!
It seems that your pid tune is the issue which is why you see them in the goggles, and the stabilisation is removing them from the recording.
Why did you go for 96khz instead of 48?
@@DarrenAllatt thanks, at 48 i had some shake, and on 96 is smooth, despite diving
Just realized that you are DazBot! How's the o3? I'm planning to put it on an open racer build, is it durable enough to withstand minor to major crashes? 🙏
That’s me!
So far it seems to be. However you only have 3 channels, so not very race friendly.
@@DarrenAllatt Thanks! Will just use it for track documentation during practice runs. Haha
What frame are you flying in this video?
Unmgawd 2Fiddy 4” with 3.5” props
I'm just surprised that DJI hasn't fixed this between batches during manufacturing, even if it was to just add the adhesive like you did during assembly!
Ain't it beautiful how the old fixes continue forever :D Might get some liquid leccy tape in just in case
I get it as well on a brand new clean build. I was getting mad thinking it was actually a bad gyro or something. Looked into blackbox and these 1-5 degrees gyro movements are actually there. How do you know it's not the actual vibration/oscillation of the actual quad rather than just the camera, in your case too?
I don’t know it’s not the quad, but I didn’t have them when it had a Vista in it.
So it’s really a process of elimination to find and solve the issue.
Like for me, which solution should I try first? $2 superglue or $60 frame. The super glue is a no-brained before getting a new frame
@@DarrenAllatt Makes sense. You've just been mentioned on the MadTech live stream btw, he's going to look into that in detail apparently.
oh cool. Ian's good, unfortunately I have been in work meetings (Australia) so couldn't tune in
@@DarrenAllatt He just mentioned the fact and that's it really. I guess we'll need to build a critical mass in order for that to be properly raised and addressed. I watched a lot of O3 footage on youtube yesterday and the vast majority of it has this very same issue! So it's widespread and it's definitely an issue.
Hello Darren, i have a question, if buy an 03 AU and install it in my own quad platform with GPS, will i have to connect my goggles 2 to GPS in order to arm ? Thank you
Not currently.
@DarrenAllatt funny we all have the same spelling of our name, I'm Darren Lee also and have talked with Darren Lee on FB. Small world heh
could you also recommend a sub 250 bnf . that I could utilize with my FS -16 controller and enchine 800d googles . I am trying to Train without too much drain . and use my budget equipment .
To be frank, that radio is well and truly old and you’d be hard pressed to find any BnF that comes with FLYSKY today.
I’d recommend a second hand radio like a used TX16S, or any of the newer radios with built in ELRS to give you more options, will he better in the long term and open up more possibilities
I’m sorry, FPV isn’t something you can do on a small budget- good gear is worth it and will hold value while cheap gear is Just burning money.
I’d go with a GepRC smart 35 once you go to buy a BNF
@@DarrenAllatt i thought u would reply as you did. i agree . TX16S👏 + ELRS 👏+ 03 unit 👏+ under 250 g ?
=
@@Koolaidban
There are no O3 sub-250 Bind & Fly quads at the moment as all of the frames are too narrow to house the camera.
Foxeer come the closest with 257g dry weight, they have the Aura 3.5" in DJI O3 which is a BnF, they also have the Aura 4" however I haven't seen them in person, the product photos show the camera mounted ahead of the standoffs by TPU, which I don't like at all as you will smash the camera in a head on crash. But, in Jon E5 Drones video on DJI 10 Bit colour, he shows the Aura 3.5" for a moment with the camera mounted between the standoffs giving it the necessary protection.
If you wanted to build, I would suggest the Ummagawd 2 Fiddy 3.5"/4" (use 3.5" props) or the Quadmula F3 Siren Split seems to be an option too.
My 2Fiddy 3.5" comes in at 242g with 4S 550mah or 266g with 6S 450mah
There is also the AOS 3.5 v2 O3 (I personally don't like the AOS frames)
@@DarrenAllatt Isn't the iFlight "Defender" or something like that a sub 250 o3 bnf? Will check again later.
@@davidd6599 you mean the DJI Avata knock off from iFlight? ...
i'd give a word of warning, CA glue (super glue) can off-gas and permanently 'fog up' if you apply too much in an enclosed area, so be real careful using it near a camera sensor
Yes that's an excellent point! I did say at the end "should you do it, probably not" so hopefully that's enough for people to take a word of warning.
Is there a glue you would recommend?
@@alpinegoat personally i would go for some liquid electrical tape or something similar, so its not a permanent connection but wont let them vibrate apart, but obviously CA glue worked in this case, you just wanna be careful with how much you use
@@LuckyMoniker thanks I appreciate the reply. I’m dealing with this problem on 2 units so with one I will try this and the other I’m in contact with DJI support. No luck yet. They just suggested PWM frequency, rolling shutter effect, soft mount it, and have you tried tightening and loosening the mounting screws. Ended up stripping one… nothing has helped so far.
@@alpinegoat good luck to you, i havent gotten any o3's yet but here's hoping i dont run into this
Hey Darren
Thanks for the advice, it solved the jitter issue on my GepRC Cinebot after a rather hard crash. Superglued it, all good. 😁
Glad it fixed your problem!
had a very small crash and then i had the same problem like you, i hope i can fix it. thank you.
I hope you can too 🤞
I did all of the suggested solutions, glue on lens, 48khz pwm, good frame and props, camera isolation with dampners, and I still get horrible jello with my Cinebot 30 and dji 03 air unit. HELP
This isn’t something I can help with via the RUclips comment section. If you would like to book a time with me, head to darrenfpv.com
that thumbnail photo was hilarious lol
Hello everyone im gonna fix my camera, whats the best glue or alternative i could buy ?
I just used superglue- be careful
i will try it on walksnail pro camera
Thats cool, $230 for the new air unit and you have to take it apart and glue the lens together lol, sounds like DJI. On a serious note, thank you for the video and the info, this may save one of us in the future!
I’ve never had any issues in 3 years of using Dji vistas, cameras, og airunits, and now after installing 3, 03’s in quads they all work flawlessly. Keep your biased bring nothing to the table opinions to yourself
Yea… after spending 230$ on anything in this hobby there is no certainty. Salty pilot you… 😂
Well I’m 1 from 2 on the O3’s, guess it’s luck of the draw.
@@creationlabsinc.189 well I have 2 03 air units and they both have this problem so lucky you.
@@creationlabsinc.189 Sorry dude, spoony is spot on. There are numerous ways DJI has shit the bed so to say over the years. Just because you got lucky with yours, or maybe just don't notice it, doesn't mean the issue isn't widespread. It's clearly a pretty common/widespread issue, which in turn makes it pretty pathetic from an R&D standpoint as DJI should have noticed this and fixed accordingly. And yes, when a customer spends $230 on a product, they expect it to work flawlessly. To have to open said brand new product up to fix it, that's not right or okay by any means. Clearly, you are the salty DJI dick rider "pilot" here with nothing to offer. Sometimes it's best just to keep the yapper shut, maybe someday you'll learn that haha.
Hey
I wondering if somebody could give me advice how to adjust focus on o3 camera. Unfortunately I have focus only in the center rest is blurry 😅
Try turning off focus mode in the goggles
your drone has to be almost perfect for the 03 every little vibration or dsync shows up really annoying tpu mounts and tpu washers seems to help
Yeah it has to be
is $235 aud an ok price for a used TX16S controller?
Hey Jerry, no it's not actually. I am going to assume it's the original TX16S (version 1, not the current "Mk 2")
For example, the new Radiomaster Boxer is listed on PhaserFPV for $230, even though it's not in stock, but it will be within a month or two once Radiomaster start delivering them to stores.
The Gimbals on the Boxer are the same as the TX16S, but the Boxer has the same V4 Gimbals as the latest TX16S Mk2, while the original TX16S has I think the V1 gimbals. So thats a big jump.
The Boxer is just a simplified version of the TX16S with less switches, and a better form factor (its in-between the TX12 and TX16S size wise). If you go with the ELRS version it has 1w of output power, but also is available in a JP4in1 version.
To get an original (3 year old) TX16S for $235 when a brand new Boxer is just around the corner. It's not a good deal IMO.
I would feel that $150 is a fair price for that Radio.
But if its the TX16S Mk2 then $235 is a good deal.
@@DarrenAllatt I keep researching all theses controllers . and the TX16S MK2 seams to be the best budget controller. just buy it and save money by not buying all the other ones first. then end up at TX16S after all. just seams like such a safe bet.
@@Koolaidban if you're starting off I'd say go straight to ELRS protocols on both transmitters and receivers. Don't waste time with the others and then having to resolder receivers or attach modules to your radio. For the radio really depends on how sure you are you'll be in the hobby. The Boxer and Zorro are great but like you said, eventually you'll likely swap to a tx16s. If you're a pincher you might like the boxer more because of the form factor - not sure.
@@RedCobraH 100% I am doing ELRS Protocols. i think 100% TX16S For my first controller as well. now the HD zero or DJI 02 googles decision is up next for me. and drone purchase. probably iflight nazgul. love this Hobby
@@Koolaidban O3 vs HDZero comes down to what you're looking to do. In my opinion, if you're doing freestyle or racing, get hdzero. If you're doing long range or cinematic, get dji. Even though I think HDZero might get more range with the 1W VTX at 540p60fps, not sure. But DJI has a stunning camera quality.
Nice test Darren!
Thanks SalMac much appreciated!
Hopefully DJ I will be watching this and correct the issue
fingers crossed right!
Great info and thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Is it a camera defect? I wonder if they refund money for such a defect or replace the camera with a new one. Maybe there is a series of cameras with this particular defect?
maybe it is, but I tend to not worry about warranty for fpv products unless its DOA because you end up having to fight the manufacturer to prove its them and not me.
Nice solution thanks for sharing. Btw it was a tough survey to fill
Thanks. I know. I ask a lot of people- just helps me help you
Dope! Thanks
No problem!
My issue was the PWM frequency, went away when I changed it to 48 kHz. Was not noticible at all in the unstabilized footage. If it helps anyone, my issue presented itself as "jiggling" in the roll axis when stabilizing the footage in Gyroflow. This was on my Nazgul Evoque F5 V2 BNF.
Can you explain how to do it or is there a tutorial Somewhere? Thanks
@@lopesdev RUclips channel Mads Tech has a video covering all the possible solutions including the PWM frequency. He has a video called "DJI O3 FPV Image Vibration Issues ? How To Fix".
Hi Darren, I have the 5inch version of the 2fiddy and having the same issue. With the solution, are you still soft mounted or are you soft mounted still? One more question, how did you soft mount it with the 2fiddy camera cage? Wondering if I try the solution, if it works without soft mounting.
Yea still soft mounted with 48khz pwm.
Here is the link to the soft mounts - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5652761
I’ll be doing this for sure! Thanks!
Great info Darren hope someone let DJI know
I'm changing cables today. I'll put a spot of liquid electrical tape on while I'm in there!
Great idea and something you may as well do
One thing I didn't see mentioned here- BE CAREFUL about rotating the lens when you're checking for wiggle or applying glue. Turning it will change the focus point of the camera, and if you accidentally glue it in place where the image is blurry (like me) that would SUCK.
Thanks for the video! My video looks pretty good while flying and with stabilization off. But on all three of my builds when rocksteady is turned on I get a lot of shaking and vibration. Was yours with rocksteady on and off?
rocksteady is turned on.
you need to run 48khz pwm frequency on your ESC and soft mount the gamera to avoid jitters with rock-steady turned on
@@DarrenAllatt did you try with rocksteady off to see if the vibrations were still there?
@@aerialimagery3216 I can't remember, but will try in the next couple of days!
Super glue bad idea round optics, it can seep and leave a residue into the smallest gaps,
Great point!
Add O3 kitter fix as a tag. 👍
si es asi el problema ,ES UN MAL CONTROL DE CALIDAD DE DJI...lo cual es preocupante...
I have 6 drones now that I've upgraded or built with the DJI-03 and haven't had an issue yet that wasn't a frame or mounting issue. Actually I've only had one that I had to deal with any jello at all on and it was just a frame issue that I easily rectified. Sounds like you had a bad camera but glad it's resolved. Of course the warranty is void now, but that comes with the territory. Hope you have better luck with future 03's if you install more!
Yeah I basically don’t believe in warranty for FPV anyway unless it’s DOA
Had 2 of them start doing this after hard crashes where the camera was completely protected in a titanium cage..gonna try this next
@@DarrenAllatt My video just went dead on one of mine and DJI did warranty for me really quickly. Very painless.
@@gregdavidd where did you buy your air unit from?
Thanks!!! Subbed
Thanks for the sub!
I had jitters on my o3 Apex DC; arm was loose.
That will do it.
Thanks for the information!! Thats good to know!
Any time!
Can you please show a night flight?? just to see what is possible?? Most people say that it sucks!!
Let me see what I can do
Low light is def the weakness of 03, but it is alot better after the update
DJI goes even more into DIY. With the Action 3 you can turn the lens 15° out to get a sharp focus and here you have to glue the lens in its place which is ridiculous? if the lens it THAT loose in the barrel, it would fall out of it or has no chance to get a focus all over the whole picture. there is some information lost in transfer. i rather would check the inner parts not good connected to the outer parts which have contact (screws) to the frame. all other things are no complete story. Because: we learned we have to hard mount, then the stabilisation can work better. if we soft mount, one shake has not ideal flanks of rising movement for the gyroflow or other systems. if there is a gap between the inner parts, a lot of tubers solved it with soft mount, in this case better than nothing, but the solution is still: Hard mount it! maybe you did id with open and better closing the case, maybe not with the glue. i will follow this and i guess Chris rosser will put out a video soon about that.
well here's the thing, I have two quads, one hard mounted and one soft mounted. one is completely smooth with hard mounting the other was horrible.
@@DarrenAllatt normally the hard mount is better for every anti shake reduction. soft mount is not that easy to calculate out the bouncing from whatever material is used. they just dont know the movement from the soft mount, but they always can calculate with the direct own gyro data. a few years ago soft mount was better, but this has changed.
@@rolliseventeen Hey Rolli,
Actually, it's come back now full circle that soft mounting is better to absorb vibrations.
However hard vs soft mount debate aside.
DJI themselves in the O3 Manual recommend soft mounting
@@DarrenAllatt i know, i saw this. there is also a few units arund which had loos lens barrel. its not clear what type of problem or solution is best for all atm. some made a fix to the lens barrel and it helped. its just DJI, best product, but not best QC.
If so, the problem IS BAD QUALITY CONTROL BY DJI...which is worrying...
Ah ok, now I know why I give up fpv and get a mavic 3 pro cine pro. It’s because of the superglue.
How do you drive in the parking lot underground? No one comes and harassed you?
Hello, I need help! - I have a new set of DJI Goggles 2 and a New Dji Air Unit...
I want to simply run the camera without a flight controller so I can install it in an RC Car.
All I need to know is how to get power to the Air Unit using an independant 4s Battery.
I don't need all the OSD stuff, Just powered on, so I can install the Firmware on both the Goggles and the Air Unit. What cable do I need to make up to get this going? ( I also have a fan and a heat sink ready for it too) There has to be a simple way to power it up surely without '' all the quad gear '' If anyone can help me, I'd be willing to pay for your time. I live in Australia and really want to use the system.
I have searched what seems like the entirety of RUclips for what I've just explained, But everything is about quadcopters. Hopefully someone can help me out here. Many thanks in advance.
why is all that needed?
if you tighten the fpv cam so its one with the frame and it vibrates in the video, your frame or setup must be jank
As you saw in the video, I went through a process of elimination to get to the end problem.
The setup also isn’t Jank because there were no vibrations in the video when I had a Vista on it. All that’s changed is the video system.
So by the process of elimination to fix it, and not jumping straight to camera problems / you can see where the issue actually was.
Dji probably knew about this issue from the beginning. The amount of money people are paying for this product it should be fixed at the factory and recall the ones that are defective.
Excellent information
Glad it was helpful!
It looks like this was a total hassle, but on the good side, you got me to subscribe!...and liked! Thanks for all of your efforts!!! 😎🤘
Thanks for the sub!
The problem is crappy frame design more than anything. Replacing the whole mount with TPU would have solved the issue.
Yeah great solution to just 3D print carbon parts in TPU. As shown, soft mounting didn’t work either. 🙄
@@DarrenAllatt or better just buy proper design frame in the first place :D All frames I have tested with carbon and aluminium camera mounts were always the issue and zero benefits. As the best "TPU Mount" is just two TPU tabs that go on the front stand off and holds the camera. They can extend forward like on a cinewhoop and this frame design.. but usually, goes inside on a proper freestyle frame.
@@MrTechcat what you are missing is even on 5” freestyle frames with “proper design” there is still the issue.
@@DarrenAllatt Maybe I'm lucky or maybe drone build and tune is in the first place.. but I haven't had an issue with any of four O3 I got already.
Others have reported loose cameras in the housing. Also, there are some camera that did not come with the adhesive installed from DJI. Seems like you got lucky because 2 out of 3 cameras were loose in my experience.
I just tested this with no luck. Seems just as bad even with the glue applied and the PWM changed.
Soft mounted your camera or hard mounted?
@@DarrenAllatt Hard mounted right now. Its a speedybee HD frame that comes with a hard mount. Their website says a tpu print file is an option. The website says a file will be provided to pilots to modify but I never received that. I emailed them today to try to get that file. I saw iFlight is selling a silicone mount as a fix for this issue. They are saying tpu may not be enough.
"Since the DJI O3 gyro logger is far more sensitive than expected and wont (probably) be fixed with a software update neither, we decided to be proactive. New silicone vibration damping inserts have been designed to replace the commonly used TPU ones, which are holding the O3 cam in the side panels."
@@brreed82 Yep, I think once you have the softmount you will be good to go
Interesting - and hard to believe. Hope my BNF won't have that problem...
I have 3 units of o3, none of them have this issue😅
on my o3 have no Jello
On 2 of my others, no jello, on this one issues
@@DarrenAllatt I mean didn't nothing with camera. Maybe in my revision was fixed by dji
there without stab and after gyroflow. Camera on tpu mount
Yep. This happens with like half of my o3 cameras. The other half are perfect.
I know its a PITB!
I just checked: My camera HAS the black glue already there, interesting.
I believe they’ve fixed the lose issue. My first one came from the first batch sent out. It was lose and glue fixed it. My other 3 were in later batches. All have the black adhesive
Hi, thank Bro fix GPS is another problem 🤔🤔
What do you mean?
@@DarrenAllatt it disturbs the GPS reception too
@@onclefly8450 all video transmitters do that. You have 1w of RF “noise” above a GPS.
The easiest way to make sure you get quick gps lock is to have your gps wired from a 5v pad that gets power from usb.
Then before you go to fly, plug in a 5v battery to the usb of your fc and wait for a lock before you power on your drone via a lipo.
For that price there should be no problems to fix with glue or by yourself, what a shame dji
So you did DJI repair centers job for them. They now owe you the hourly fee they pay to those workers for making your own repair. This is unacceptable from DJI to mass produce the 03 air unit and its not sealed for condensation and the cameras come brand new wiggling lile this? Unacceptable. Glad you were able to tinker with it and make it work for you! I think DJI expected a bunch of ppl building their own drone would think they did something wrong on the build themselves. Here it's all their fault.
You got lucky with the ribbon cable I think, normally it should stay attached when the back of the camera is removed, but it pulled out together... lucky no damage! But a good find, I know now what to check if it happens.
it was the second time I did it, so I think it was a little loose from the first
Seems a very high quality product. 😁
But nice that you was able to fix it with superglue. 👍
I know, although probably want to use a more appropriate adhesive.
😂 The only reason you think you fixed it is cuz you're inside now 😂
True, maybe when sun is up and shutter rise you will see them again!
I disagree because they were present on the other car park flights which were all filmed at night.
@@DarrenAllatt remember when you argued all over the internet that DJI would not make the vistas compatible with the goggles 2 😂
3rd!
This doesn’t look like 03 , the footage is horribly pixelated and blurred out, it seems to me you’ve got more problems than just jittery camera 🙄
Maybe change your RUclips resolution
@@DarrenAllatt I actually did that right away, I don't know what's up but the recording isn't coming through very good and I have all HD equipment. Hmmmmm? O-well