Installing Rear Brakes on a Ford Escape with Electronic Parking Brake (EPB)
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- Learn how to install brakes and save money
Lincoln MKC Ford Escape with EBP
Caliper bracket torque spec is 66 lbs/ft not 129
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Great video there sir. I watched it prior to replacing the rear brakes on my wifes Ford Escape. Did not know about the EPB so this was worth everything. Thank you
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
Just done my rear brakes not hard at all, however caliper brackets bolts are supposed to have blue loctite on them at least that what was on them when i took them out. I cleaned them up put them back in and put a little anti seize on them torqued the first two 129 ft lbs 3rd one snapped, went to ford to purchase 2 new ones (just in case)low and behold blue loctite on them. A couple of years ago I had those brakes done by a ford tech at ford and while I was taking those same bolts out I thought he may have cross threaded them as I needed a 2 foot breaker bar to get them out. Just a note my caliper slider bolts were T47 not 7mm allen bolts a 7mm worked but while i was cleaning them up I noticed multiple points on the head. Good helpful video
Thanks for watching! It sounds like the caliper slide pins may have been changed previously. I have never seen Ford use a torx for brakes
Thank you very much for making this video I just did my rear brakes on 2015 edge and I never would have figured this out on my own.when I pulled the wheel off I got really intimidated by everything but your video was so clear, it was a easy job, save me a ton of cash
Thanks for watching Richard, glad to help. Tell your friends!
Awesome video, straight and to the point with great camera work/audio. Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you! Just tackled my 2017 escapes rear brakes today. I was a little apprehensive before I saw this video, never worked on EPBs before. Easy Peassy. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching Greg, glad I could help!
Outstanding video, love the video quality!! Keep up the good work.
Thank you Gregory!
Came here looking for information on the EPB. Appreciate the info on making sure you put it in maintenance mode first. The rest of the video is great also. For anyone who is somewhat mechanically inclined, you spell it it out perfectly for them.
Thanks for watching Chris!
You saved my butt. Every YT I saw showed folks screwing the caliper piston back down to flush with the caliper. I started this with needle noses and some force. The piston went in just a little and would no longer turn in despite cracking the bleeder and pumping the brakes gently in case the piston got cocked in the cylinder.
Looks like all you did was mash it in with channel locks......
What worked for me was, with the old pads in and the guide pins out, just tugging outward on the caliper bodies against the rotors. This worked well, granted this is after I screwed the pistons in till I could no longer turn them.
Note, I am just an average size guy of 65 so really not all that strong anymore. The car is a 2017 Escape with 108,000 and not too much corrosion, far as I know, the calipers are OEM. My notes are vague but did pads at 47K but don't recall so much trouble.
Glad I could help!
Greetings from Punxsutawney!! Great video...Liked how you said what tools were needed at the beginning as it saved time gathering them up before the job. Worked great on my 2017 Titanium Escape
Fantastic, thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing this knowledge. Im here from Autovlog because you filmed in the rain (;
Wish you the best, Many greetings from Denmark
Thanks Jens, it's great to have you!
Thank you a bunch for this, when we bought our FE we declined the maintenance because it's way to much. No one buys a Ford Escape because they have endless money to throw at a family car.
Thanks for watching!
The dealer wanted over 1300 for a brake job I said RUclips got me 😂😂😂
Thank you for the information. it was very helpful. This was my first experience with EPB.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Great video! I haven't touched that new of a Ford yet so l'm sure your tips will be helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Very clear explanation and great camera work..Thanks..👍🍻
Glad you enjoyed it
Very good video - nicely done and of course I did learn how to deactivate the electronic brake.
Thanks for watching Raman!
You just saved my day!!! Thank you for taking the time to make the video
Thanks for watching Jason, glad I could help!
This is the best video on rear brakes for the escape...much appreciated
Glad to hear that, thanks for watching!
One of the best video for electronic brake system in ford fusion . Thank you,
Thanks for watching!
I lovedddd the entire video man , whit prices and everything great video I think is almost the same on my 2016 edge thank you,!
Thanks for watching!
Good video and instructions. Thanks for putting it on RUclips.
Glad it was helpful!
HEY BUDDY JUST WANTED TO THANK YOU SOOO MUCH FOR YOUR VIDEO. FANTASTIC INFO. VERY HELPFUL.... YOU DA MAN!!!
Thanks for watching Robert!
Great job with your explanation, Thanks for all the help.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Excellent video. Easy steps to do. I avoided doing brakes with EPB ugh. Bit when I saw it. Relatively easy to do lol
The Ford ebp doesn't require a scan tool like most other manufactures
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS that's good to know. That's what I was afraid of with scan tool which most people don't have when it comes to do EPB.
That is a wonderful video, I was able to finish my rear brakes without any special tools, thank you.
Fantastic! Thanks for watching
He should have mentioned applying thread lock on the caliper bracket bolts. Also if anyone tried to torque those bolts to 129ft/lbs you'd shear the bolt.
I did change the updates torque spec in the description. Ford puts a ton of thread lock on these bolts from the factory and it makes them miserable to remove. I never use it. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the great information and video. This will save so many headaches. You rock!
My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Thank you! I would’ve never known about maintenance mode had it not been for this video
Glad I could help Eric, thanks for watching!
What happens if u dont disable the parking assist mode
@@nehrug9111 maintenance mode releases the parking brake allowing you to to remove the caliper
Thanks a lot this really helped! You rock my man!
Thanks for watching!
Great vid easy to follow along thanks
Thanks for watching!
Merry Christmas to you and your family. Have a great day brother. Thanks for all you do
Merry Christmas Jimmy, thank you for your support!!
Thankd for the video! Super helpful. And thanks for showing how to take it out of service mode!
Glad I could help!
Great video, well done.
Thanks for watching, Barry!
Great video
Thank you, your video helping me. Your awesome
Thanks for watching, glad I could help!!
Very clear video, although when using a C clamp to compress caliper do not rest the fix end of clamp on the plastic cover of caliper you may damage the electronics my suggestion use the head bolt for fluid line it does not get damage because caliper give way very easy , do not use grinders on surface for brake pads better with wire brush, the info for setting brake system for rear brake service very ease and clear info thank you. Gabriel
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! Now I just have to learn how to do the fronts and borrow a lift lol
The fronts are easier!
superb video and VERY precise and informative Thank You
Thanks for watching!!
The calipers got me, ordered new ones (but didn't pick them up) before I knew...
Bummer
thanks buddy, keep up the good work
Thanks for watching!
I just did the rear brakes on my 2017 Escape. I was able to compress the calipers most of the way with a c-clamp, but had to go get the tool to get the piston all the way in. I thought I did not need that, yet I had to get one.
That can happen on rare occasions
It is a very good Training thank you very much
Thanks for watching!
Watch out for corrosion in the holes where the plastic guides for the slide pins fit. Mine were so bad that it squeezed the guides tight onto the pins causing one of the pads to wear prematurely. If the pins don't move easily in the guides, replace the guides after removing the corrosion and greasing (silicon) the holes.
Thanks for the tip!
Great video. I did learn very important step. Thank you.
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching.
Good video with the exception the caliper does not compress fully with clamp must screw in once pushed in to fully compress.
Good tip. It will go all the way in about 80% of the time
Good stuff sir! & Everything was smoothly clarified!... One question, after pad replacement, you do not have to depress the brake pedal multiple times before you start your vehicle, for this particular brake job?
Thanks for watching! Yes, I recommend doing that after every brake job to set the pads against the rotors before you start driving.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWSYou are welcome & Thank you for the timely response!
Thank you, very informative and thorough.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks for watching Mark!
Thanks helped a great deal with out over doing it.
Great to hear!
Great concise informative video!
Thanks for watching!!
We found we had to retract the pistons past the position of fully retracted by turning the pistons clockwise by using the points of needlenose pliers in the slots provided in order to fit the calipers back on.
That case you may have put the pads in wrong, the ones with the little nubs go on the outside.
Thank you! Liked and subscribed.
Awesome, it's great to have you!
Got to give it up to Ford for making it easy to get around the electric parking brake
I agree! Some manufactures make it far too difficult.
What happens if you can't get the vehivle in maintenance mode and just begin removing the pads, replacing the rotors, but the caliper won't compress with a c clamp? Just can't compress it. Great video. THUMBS UP!!!
Thanks for watching! On occasion, you will need a caliper tool to turn the piston while pushing it in. The tool is available for rent/borrow at most auto parts stores.
Good tips Thats one thing I've noticed about these 3rd gen Escapes. The rear brakes seem to be finished at the same time or before the fronts. I see that one still has the encapsulated/covered lug nuts....not a big fan of those! They always seem to corrode and swell and turn into a huge mess trying to remove or install.
I HATE these lug nuts! you are correct about the brake wear, I believe the caliper brackets are the culprit, they rust and cause the pads to stick.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS Yea...lol. Thats the first thing I did with our Escape, F150, and Edge....swapped the lugs for solid chrome ones. Don't wanna be stuck on the side of the road with a flat trying to pry off the bulged out covers and finding a different sized socket to beat onto whats left to get a lug nut off.....argghhh!! I consider it it money well spent.
That is a good idea, I used to hate working on Chrysler products for the same reason, Ford must be using the same supplier
With the help of this video, changing the pads and rotors was a snap. Thanks. 👍
Glad I could help!
Hey PiPs, EXCELLENT brake demonstration on that Escape model. A couple of pertinent questions for you fella' ? Is it NO longer necessary to "bleed" the brake lines and confirm proper brake FLUID reservoir level ?!? Secondly, is it worth the additional cost to ^Upgrade^ to the CERAMIC ( ex. Wagner ) brake pads for superior stopping ability along with improved WEAR durability over the base pads ?!? Plus, don't the wheels tend to stay much cleaner ? Keep ^UP^ The Great Tutorials Yo !!!
Thanks John, typically you don't need to bleed the system unless there is an issue or a hydraulic part is replaced. As far as pads go, I go with the OE pads unless I am upgrading to a track day specific compound.
Great video. i didn't know the electronic park brake was part of the regular brake system. Is that just on one rear wheel or both? Thanks
Both rear wheels, thanks for watching!
Rear Caliper and anchor plate assembly
Remove the bolts and position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Discard the bolts.
Torque: 66 lb.ft (90 Nm)
This is for the 2017 & 2018 Escape - Only 129 in the front
Also it is possible the piston will bottom out and not be fully compressed, in which case you must rotate the piston clockwise while pushing inward using a brake caliper piston retractor
You are correct, thanks for the comment.
Spot on with the torque spec. I did 129 ft lbs. guess what happens? Snap! Should have double checked my resources. Glad a local auto parts store stocks them. Others must have watched this video. Other than that good.
This is what I was looking for, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
If you have the 2017 SE AWD 2.0L, you can not use C clamp to depress piston. You will need to rent a Break Caliper Wind Back tool. You can rent them from any auto store like O'Reilly or Autozone. Also make sure to remove cap form break fluid reservoir makes it easier to depress piston.
If it does not had the electronic park brake, you will need the tool. 90% of the time, with EBP you can push it in without a tool. Thanks for the comment.
Pair of needle nose work as well. I actually used the tool that came with my grinder. Cut the handle off to fit and used a pair of channel locks. Easy peasy. You don't need to rent the tool at all
Wish I would have saw this video before I paid for the same work. Great video. Is there any chance that if done incorrectly the emergency brake actuator would need replaced a few weeks later? Thanks again for the great info.
Well, thanks for watching late! I have never seen an actuator go bad that wasn't damaged by someone but I guess anything is possible.
Great video, I used to have an old ford escape 2008 and now I have a new 2019 Ford Escape with electronic parking brake, and I didn't know what I was getting in to, but with this video it solve all my questions, Very informative, just one question, is necessary to put the vehicle in maintenance parking mode, when replacing the front pads and rotors? Thanks.
Thanks for watching! No, you do not have to do it for the front brakes
Awesome, thanks again.
If i lived in the US, you would be my goto mechanic.
I really appreciate that!
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Hello, great video! I have a question, what happens if your rear brakes are serviced but the maintenance mode was not activated? Can it be a bad thing for the rear brakes system? Can the maintenance mode be act/deact after the procedure?
The only other way you can retract the pistons in the calipers, is to unplug the connector on the backs of them. That does not damage anything but putting it in maintenance mode is easier. Thanks for watching.
Good video. Do you have to put the parking brake in maintenance mode in case you are changing the front pads? what was the model year of the car?
Thanks.
Thanks! No, only the rear brakes, 2017 Ford Escape
Good to see someone local to the region lol. Did you have a tough time removing the caliper bolts? My buddy did mine tonight, and it took a while because Ford thought it was a good idea to put blue loctite on the bolts. Why they felt that was necessary is beyond me.
Thanks for watching Brett! The amount of loctite seems to be hit or miss, some bolts are covered and some have none.
Thank you this helped
Glad it helped
Saving $400 here in Canada!
Fantastic!!
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for watching, glad I could help!
Brain great video you are master
Thanks Marius!
super helpful .. saved me a $500 brake bill
Fantastic Mark, glad to hear that!!
Im a used car tech for bmw and man thx a lot for the video
Thanks for watching Alex, glad it helped. I am a big BMW fan, I used to have an M4
Thank you so much for posting this video, My father and I greatly appreciate the time you took in the detailing of the correct tool sizes and such to get everything off. I would have never known about some type of maintenance mode for the brakes, I was wondering, are the front brakes similar to the rear? or are they more complex? Please let me know, Thank you again.
Thanks for watching! No, the front brakes are easy, no need for maintenance mode or special tools for them.
Thank the Gods lol. My lug nuts were swollen, i had to take the escape to a local garage to bust them all off and replace
@@TwitchyCamper89 unfortunately, that’s pretty common, the nuts are garbage.
Youd think they would address that. But i guess they dont give a bleep. Lol
I watched another video before yours that did not mention maintenance mode. Unfortunately I had to get a new caliper as I tried activating it after everything was already off. Do the notches on the piston need to line up with the notches on the back of brake pad? Also, since the vehicle is in "service required" mode and not maintenance mode, after putting the calipers back on would it be okay to put into maintenance mode for the other wheel?
Sorry to hear that. No, the notches don't need lined up and yes, you should be able to put it in maintenance mode for the other side.
good video bro
Thanks for watching Marco!
Question quick, what if we over torqued the caliper bracket? In video it said 129 ft/lbs? But in description on video it said 67?. Bolts aren’t broken yet but are brake mounts where caliper bracket bolts into stripped out now?? Thanks also, only got it torqued to 120ft lbs incorrectly!!!
I apologize for that. As long as the bolts did not start spinning or break off, you should be fine.
Great video. Brake clean on the rotor surfaces?
Thanks for watching! Depends on the rotor brand.
Thanks for the video! I know I need new pads and rotors in the rear of my Ford Escape. I have 58,000 miles and want to know if I need to put in new calipers as well? What do you suggest?
Only if there is an issue with them leaking or freezing. My guess is they are fine. Thanks for watching!
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS Thank you! What is your opinion on Duralast Rotors/pads?
@@gregharnett104 I use there gold series stuff all the time with no issues.
This is the vehicle I own and want to save $$ on the job. Dealer wants $450 just for rear brakes.
Question. Do you have to open the master cylinder prior to depressing the caliper piston? Is this necessary? It used to help considerably on much older vehicles. Thanks
Hi Mitch, it couldn’t hurt but it is not necessary to remove the cap first.
Note, service mode does drain the battery, so don't leave it on for days without running the vehicle.
Thanks for the tip!
I pause my Adblock and refresh the page for Pipsburgh videos (y)
Awesome!!
I got a ford maverick truck, 2022. Would like to know if this is same procedure. If not guys on the forum would love to see a video on doing brakes for the ford maverick?
Yes, since it's based on the same chassis as the Escape, the procedure is very similar. Thanks for watching
Kind of Ironic. Looking to change the brakes on my 2018 Ford Escape, found this video. I bought my 2018 Ford Escape from Moon Township Ford 😀
That is ironic!! I was a tech there for 19 years. I hope my video helps. Thanks for watching!
thank you sir for this video 👏
Thanks for watching!
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS just finished changing my pads and rotor today. i had to activated and deactivate parking brake maintenance 3 times so i can push back the piston break deeper(i dont know if its normal) but everything went well after. your video really helps a lot. thanks again
Is there different sizes rotors or pads? I got two sets from different parts stores and for whatever reason the caliper wouldnt fit, like if the new pads and rotors were too thick. I tried opening the bleeder and see if maybe the piston wasnt in all the way but it didnt go in any more. Any idea?
Sounds like you got the wrong parts.
I always remove the fluid reservoir cap before I push back the pistons to allow the fluid to return to the reservoir easier. Is that necessary to do?
not absolutely necessary but certainly can't hurt.
the EPB only applies when changing the rear breaks, right? I wouldnt have to do this if I were to change just the front breaks?
You are correct, it only affects the rear.
How many miles? Btw theres a TSB for the auto stop start fault, some reflash.
TheWolf 52,000 thanks for the info.
Boy. Had a lotta elbow grease to get caliper bolts out and back in. Bolts in good shape but pretty sure I was seeing factory thread locker. Your bolts seemed to torn freely. Thoughts?
Not sure why but it is hit or miss the amount of lock tight they decide to use. I did brakes on 2 Explorers yesterday, one had some and the other didn't. Thanks for watching!
I second that. The whole thing took about 20 minutes longer because of this. Great video though, every step was crystal clear.
Howdy partner. I suspect I have a bad caliper. If I were to buy a new one, im assuming the EPB unit attached to the caliper can be swapped over to the new one?
Yes, that is correct. Pretty easy process.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS appreciate the reply
Is it the same as 2015 Ford Edge sport ? Have parts already but not sure if I should because of the EPB. Someone said I have to hook it up to a computer first or something before proceeding.
Omallie Charles Yes, same procedure on the Edge.
Yea I tried it and worked. Thanks a lot
Is it a waste of money to get a higher performance brakes, rotors and calipers? I have painted lugs and asked Ford not to rotate tires when having The Works Oil Change performed, they continue to scratch and damage my painted lugs on both of my cars and I purchase my tires from Costco with the free balance and rotation. I think I could do better, especially with these professional helpful videos. Don't need brakes right now, but will order the parts to have on hand and do it myself, thanks for the video.
On any Escape? Probably not, the stock brakes are fine. Thanks for watching.
Ok, so you are torqueing the bracket bolts to 129 ft lbs? That seems very high. I think the manual says 66, which seems low. Can you advise on this?
Sorry for the delay, I was on vacation. I appears Ford updated the spec since I made the video. Go with 66.
Great vid thanks for the info! My 2017 has only 7500 miles, yet the rear pads were fully worn! Fronts are fine. Any reason why this might be? Thanks, Vinny D.
The caliper bracket has a tendency to corrode and cause the pads to stick against the rotors. Yours my be the lowest mileage one I know of. Thanks for watching.
PIPSBURGH VIEWS problem is it was BOTH sides fully worn. Very strange.
If the caliper sticks both sides would wear.
Bruce Smith when I say both sides I mean both rear wheels.
@@vincentdimaggio5627 maybe the computer programming not releasing all the way. I worked brakes and front end many years ago so the electronics are all new to me.
I saw the shims on the old ones, so you don’t reinstall the old shims on the new brake pads?
No, they are glued on.
Very appreciate A+
Thanks for watching!
Why do these vehicles wear the rear brakes faster? My rear pads are getting low while the front still has some life. I read about other people having the same thing happen. I’m used to the front wearing brakes faster than the rear because the weight of the engine is in front. Makes me wonder if this electric parking brake system has the rear brakes slightly applied all the time.
The mechanical brake models actually wore out even faster. It's because the caliper brackets rust and cause the pads to stick.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS It seems like a bad design then with the back ones rusting worst. I’ve had vehicles where I went twice as long on the back brakes versus the front.
Hey Brian. great video... is it always necessary to replace the rotors? I'm reading you can resurface them? do you recomend that approach?
Thanks, the rotors don't always need to be replaced and you can cut them depending on the thickness but most newer rotors don't have much meat on them to begin with.
@@PIPSBURGHVIEWS Are you sure about resurfacing a solid rotor? Vented can be resurfaced but I think solid rotors should discarded if below minimum.What you think?
Well, all rotors should be discarded if below minimum. Solid ones have less to machine but its still possible if they are thick enough.
4:30pm i did not know about the maintenance mode and i went and changed my rear brake pads and now cannot drive the car at all,
Yah, that is a very important step! You may be able to put in then take it out of maintenance mode and see if that helps. If not, you may have damaged the calipers.