Yesterday I couldn't push in my left rear caliper, so I bought a new caliper. Today my rear right caliper also seemed stuck. So I watched this video. Now I at least don't need to buy a new right rear caliper. Thank you for the insight!
I’m not sure about all rear brake systems but usually the “ dimples “ that the tools fit into must be left with the two “ dimples “ in the 12:00 / 6:00 o’clock position. The inside brake pad ( the one against the brake piston ) usually has a “ nipple “ that fits into one of those “ dimples “.
Incredibly common to need to open the bleed screw just a fraction. Make sure it’s clean before opening it. The great thing is, the worst of the gooky brake fluid, is down at this dead-end of the brake system, ie the caliper ends. So, whatever comes out is likely the worst stuff, no matter how it looks. Also, this way you don’t try forcing fluid back through the ABS valve unit way over at the engine end, which apparently can mess with the seals. By making it ‘only just possible’ for the bleed valve to let fluid out, and you are winding the piston inward, there’s likely no air gets in, usually the bleed valve is the highest point on the caliper when installed, ie air floats up there. My worst-ever experience, is seeing an organic orange growth inside the brake fluid I got out at the caliper. It looked like some kind of stringy stuff inside the fluid…I poured it into the oil bank, it’ll turn up in a chinese ready-meal probably. Good luck.
We did the needle nose trick, but had to bring in a second pair of pliers from the side to grab the jaws of the needlenose. This kept us from twisting the pliers into uselessness. Two man job, but it worked. Had the thought later that this could also be done by a junk socket with the necessary notches cut in the face .
@@ronfox5519 Most G cramps also work as the clamp end then rotates with the piston on closing the cramp, if it doesn't turn then just use pliers to turn it. Also there is the grinder stop device lever depending on the spacing of the pins.
Aww & i had one in my tool box the whole day ( burned my old wrists with vise-grip pliers uggh! only 3/4 or the way in ) & never thought of that, thank you very much!
Great video. Thanks for info... my little needle nosed pliers weren't up to the job but my bosch angle grinder wrench (used to remove the blade on that machine) worked a treat. Exactly the right size to fit the caliper. Cheers man 🍻
Thanks -- I was struggling with this today. I managed to screw it down without the tool using pliers. But gotta do the other wheel tomorrow and I also have a Bosch angle grinder wrench!
@cuyelafarm8005 Also going to mention that as well as the G cramp method with pliers if needed to turn the screw clamp but I find it turns with the force of the turning screw on closing anyway.
The needle nose pliers work, but that method required a lot of pushing while turning, especially on the first few rotations. The first few rotations are always the hardest. Also, some vehicles don't have outer slots, but round holes to engage in ..... Your needle nose must fit into the holes well and they will slip out quite easily. I can predict some foul language when that happens.
Yes thank you! Needle nose pliers worked. But fluid squirted out not good. It came out of the back what looks like the e brake and it came out of the piston.
awesome! you tube has lots of work arounds made by people who know a good safe short cut and this is one of those $400-800 plus dealer brake repairs that takes about 1 hr or less but you can see where the mark up price and profit kicks in. i did my 2012 vw cc my self after dealer saying it was 800 bucks to replace brakes on that car simply removed 12 volt wire and back it up with torx tool brakes were $45 at auto zone that was 9 yrs ago again having auto mechanic skills you can sort out the riff raff after a few videos great job man save me worrying about possibly having to bleed brakes which they will say they did at dealer but do not as they dont need it.
My DIY special tool is a U shaped piece of 4 mm wire fitting snugly into diametrically slots of a 24 mm socket with the two legs of the U protruding about 7 mm out of the socket. It makes it a lot easier than battling with long nose pliers. My calliper piston didn't screw in fully, but a slight turn anti-clockwise turn somehow made it go all the way when I resumed screwing it clockwise.
Nice video and great insight. Biggest problem though is that when it’s been in service a while the jack screw thing is usually seized. This was my experience couple days ago. No makeshift method was going to shift them. Had to fit 2 new calipers.
Gee willikers… I broke 2 c-clamps trying to press it in like all the other brake pistons I’ve ever done. Hahahaa I hope I didn’t trash them…. I finally gave up at 11pm at night after hours. Mayyyyybe I shouldn’t ass uuum me… and just take a quick glance at a yoopertube videeyer. Thanks so much!!! I appreciate the two method thingy too. Solid b
Lol, me too. After a few hours, saw a RUclips video explaining how these things work. I did the job a few months ago but now my emergency brake stopped working. Horrible design!
I ordered the rewind tool from Amazon through your link above. I hope you get credit for it as this was a great video and really saved me a lot of time. Txs!
Excellent Video…You made what could have been complex for a DIY’er like myself first doing a worm gear caliper to very easy with the right tools..I just bought the tools you used on Amazon to add to my arsenal..and you don’t just need the right tools but know how to use them properly and I thank you for the great demonstration!!!!
Thanks for the video. I've had hell of time trying to wind them back! Only to realise here in UK my toyota auris hybrid, it winds Anti-clockwise!!! I got in a mess after pressing the brake! Realised the piston came all the way out and will not go back in,, pissed out brake fluid all over, so had to clamp the fluid caliper line, open the pipe to relief pressure, only then that the piston can go back and.. anticlockwise.
If memory serves, that’s on THAT side…the other side, it IS clockwise. This is to make the handbrake action work with the fact the cable pulls in one direction no matter which side it’s on? So they make an opposite-handed thread, so the turning of the handbrake arm at the caliper, still makes the side you dismantled, press the piston out…if they didn’t opposite-hand the thread, one side would make the piston retract as the handbrake was pulled, sorta. I have a Prius. I sold the big Rover/Honda Legend I first discovered the need to screw pistons back into calipers, fortunately i realised it was taking way too much hammering…and consulted the manual finally haha!
Splendid video! I saw one of those brake cubes once didn't have a clue what it was. I thought it looked cool I figured it was some kind of tool like you need for angle grinders and such. Brakes didn't occur to me as I recall. Now I know thanks!
@@screwsnutsandboltsYou deserve the credit! I don't know if you might wish to advise me on a difficult presentation I am confronted with on an old Mazda I started a brake repair for and now am stymied to finished because of this style of mechanism. After twenty six years I suppose the caliper doesn't think it owes anybody anything. Change out is not what I was hopeful about. I thought I could just replace the pads. I think I can rent the tool you showed somewhere but after trying a few needle nose plier attacks the piston on this specimen will not budge. Some of the comments indicated that grinder "spanners" have been found helpful. I have to find the one I know I have somewhere around here to give that a try too. But even with the perfectly suitable tool I am beginning to question whether this little guy is going to cooperate. Watching your video a few more times makes me wonder if getting the parking brake mechanicals loosened up and just taking it apart might work better than trying to jam it back in. Wish me luck. Thanks again for the well done video! K.Z.
Great video. New brake calipers are so pretty. FYI, some fords using Bosch brakes, and some Volvos turn opposite depending on the side of the car. So that first tool will not work as intended on one side. But you can still use it by not installing the back plate and just use your own force to press against the piston as you rotate the tool
i seen some videos suggest I should open the bleeder screw when turning as to prevent sediment in the piston from being fed back into the brake line. Any tips regarding that?
I'm just demonstrating the rewinding processes here, but it's probably worth bleeding the fluid as you push the piston in, but make sure you don't get any air into the system.
thanks a lot for this wonderful video; realy helpful to see how it works; now i have all information i need to make my own tool you have a new subscriber, good luck
Awesome video man, been waiting for my brake pads in the mail got an 08 fusion doing rear pads and this helped tremendously my first time doing the brakes by myself 👍
Hi there , yes heres me trying to use a G clamp ! I think its a bit shy of lubrication so ill fix that too ! and do the back street Billy with the pliers ... thanks Kevin Fullard
I used vcds to retract the electric parking brake on my Passat. I then pushed it the rest of the way to get the new pads in but I didn't turn it while pushing. It seems to be working fine so did I cause any damage ?
How does the piston move back during normal operation of the brakes so to avoid the pads applying constant pressure on the rotors??? Shouldn't there be some play?
There is a slight amount of suction when you release the brake pedal. This is why car manufacturers tell you to not lube the backs of the pads or the piston face. Some even tell you to apply pressure via the brake pedal for several minutes after getting new pads so they can adhere to pistons before dirt or dust can contaminate them
I have a 12 Impala with a caliper like that. I will have to try the pliers trick. My 84 Monte Carlo was easier to replace the caliper, you pushed the part back in. I am doing my own brake pads for the first time on a newer Chevy. Wish me luck. Btw it took me forever to find this video, i suggest put Chevy/GM in the title or somewhere so someone else can find it easier too.
Pliers method worked perfect! I didn't know rear calipers had to be twisted and I was fuckin stumped. I watched the video and was like "fuck. I don't have fancy brake tools!" Then I saw the needle nose pliers and give it a shot. Fucking perfect! Also crack the bleeder valve to release pressure if your having a hard time. Make sure you don't lose too much fluid by topping up master cylinder if needed. Great video, thank you!
This video answers a LOT of questions! I recently got a 2013 Chevy Volt and in the Service Manual it says to rotate the rear pistons in to retract them and I wondered why, since my previous vehicle was a 2007 Hyundai Elantra and those just went straight in. Turns out the reason is the Parking Brake: on my Elantra it used a little drum brake in the middle of the rear brake disc, complete with springs and an adjuster. The lever was a standard handbrake type you could pull up. On My Volt there's a Parking Brake button on the dashboard you pull that operates a motor behind the left rear wheel that pulls cables to set the brake (you can even 'double set' it by pulling the button twice). Those cables obviously pull the levers that turn the jackscrew to push the piston out to set the brake. While you could use the Handbrake on my Elantra to stop it in an emergency by pulling it up while holding the button down, there is no mention of using the Parking Brake on my Volt to do that in the Owner's Manual. From what I've read you would only want to do that as a measure of extreme last resort, since it would most likely lock the rear wheels up. I remember seeing those cubes at the parts store and wondering what they were for. Now I know.
Excellent video but does not show how to remove and replace the inner seal which on a worn or stuck caliper will need to be done. Also agree with the comment below pointing out the required proper alignment of the dimples at 6 and 12 o'clock which is critical to preventing caliper failure.
Hi, just changed my brakes and noticed the rear left caliper piston rubber is split. Is it easy enough to just repapce the rubber ratyer than whole caliper?
It should be easy enough to replace. This video shows the process: ruclips.net/video/K15SXPpQUbE/видео.html Note: The seal could be different depending on the caliper type
My cube doesn’t fit my Mazda calipers, I’ve struggled with the pliers. Last time I just “sent it” and used a c clamp for pressure and rotated the body with channel locks. Sub optimal but got it done. Should have gone and borrowed the tool, but just sharing as it works in a pinch.
I just snapped a C clamp in half trying to do it like a true American. I guess I need a new caliper, because I fucked it up. Side bar. "PUT THE FUCKING LUG STUDS ON THE INSIDE OF THE RIM"
Check on line to see which way yours turn. Not all turn the same way. On my Ford, the LH turns clockwise, the Right hand side turns counter clockwise. Some Volvos, and possibly Mazda, other European cars may do the same as my Ford breaks were made in Germany by Bausch.
Pozdrav potrebna mi je jedna informacija hocu kupiti nove brisace za golfa peticu zanima me koje dimenzije idu na prednju šajbu i na zadnju šajbu malo je glupo pitanje izvinjavam se.😊
I believe it’s best to replace the caliper if you live in a northern climate that uses salt on the roads in the winter. Pushing the possibly rusty piston back through the piston seal can damage the seal and cause leaks. The piston dust boot is sometimes not enough to protect the piston from rust due to water and salt ingress.
Yes the piston can be pushed out of the screw if it comes out too far. If you line it up with the threads properly you can use this method to screw it back in. If it has popped out from the caliper, it may have let some air get into the system and you will need to bleed that caliper once the piston is back in place.
The problem we have on this type of brake caliper is when it won't ratchet. I've never took them apart, just replaced them. Some one working on older Cadillacs told me to hammer on the caliper while ratcheting it (we specialize on Cadillacs). Something inside is rusted & you're trying to break it loose. I have no idea what. Can you elaborate on why they stop ratcheting?
Ive managed to retract the piston half way using the needle nose pliers, I cant seem to get it to retract anymore no matter how hard I push or how much I rotate the piston. Any advice?
@@screwsnutsandbolts No, it doesn't. I managed to get it to retract after using a clamp in conjunction with threading it clockwise. I guess I couldn't leverage enough clamping force by hand? Thank you for responding though!
I just did the brakes on a 16 Escape and the right rear brake is dragging. I borrowed the tool from the parts store, but the tool wouldn't fit correctly. I had to start the job with the tool then finish with my pliers. I've got the screw turned in all the way, but can't figure out why it's still putting pressure on the pads.
Do the pads move relatively freely back and forward in the caliper bracket ?. Sometimes rust and dirt can build up underneath the shims and the pads can seize in the bracket. It could also be a sticking piston
@screwsnutsandbolts I cleaned them best I could and lubricated before putting it back together. Thinking maybe parking brake could need adjustment on that wheel
You don't show the part where you struggle to get the piston past the main seal which until that point the first tool can't be used with the plate (though the tool problem is probably caliper dependent)
Thank you so much for this video i hadmade a catistrafic error today. when i had removed the caliper (electronic parking break) I got distracted and turned on the ignition which fully released the calliper piston automatically, so i was unable to manually twist the bolt inside the motor horsing to get it to retract again. As bolt was just spinning. (also pissi*** out breaK fluid. goingby your video do you think I had just not lined up the thread's. So difficult to explain.
I'm not sure to be honest, I've never actually worked on a caliper with an electronic parking brake. Have you watched this video: ruclips.net/video/zJKm08pV9EI/видео.html
After depressing the piston with the tool the tool will no longer unscrew to release, the handle turns only a few degrees. It's like the worm gear screw or whatever inside the piston/caliper is stuck. Been letting penetrating oil to soak and trying to wiggle back and forth but the loaner tool and my caliper are stuck together lol
Thanks! You are the best🙌🏼
You're welcome, and thank you David, I appreciate the support ! 👍
Best video for this job. Actually shows how the caliper piston works and why it needs to be rotated back inwards.
Thanks for watching !
@@screwsnutsandbolts is this for the rear caliper on a 19 mazda 3?
Finally!!!! An excellent video on rear brakes made by an informed, experienced professional! Well done sir!!!!!
Thanks for watching ! 👍
This is by far the best video on how to do this. Thank you!
Thanks for watching !
Best damn video I've seen about this. Very clear & professionally done, easy to understand.
Thanks for watching !
Yesterday I couldn't push in my left rear caliper, so I bought a new caliper. Today my rear right caliper also seemed stuck. So I watched this video. Now I at least don't need to buy a new right rear caliper. Thank you for the insight!
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Thank you very much it is very helpful to me
If you’re unlucky your old caliper will be seized and nothing will shift the jack screw.
@@Chris-f7s2yfacts
Instead of the plyier I've use the key to change disk on a grinder. Work perfectly on a ford edge. Thx for your vid!
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Excellent Video, no unnecessary talking.
Thanks for watching !
I’m not sure about all rear brake systems but usually the “ dimples “ that the tools fit into must be left with the two “ dimples “ in the 12:00 / 6:00 o’clock position. The inside brake pad ( the one against the brake piston ) usually has a “ nipple “ that fits into one of those “ dimples “.
Yes you're right, some brake pads have lugs on the backing plate that needs to slot into the dimples, but not all
Very informative...A 1980 Datsun280zx has this system on the rear wheels and caught us out trying to fit new pads
You made it look easy. With the brake line connected, it is way harder to hold the caliper and turn the piston back in.
And it’s on a brand new one 😅
Incredibly common to need to open the bleed screw just a fraction. Make sure it’s clean before opening it. The great thing is, the worst of the gooky brake fluid, is down at this dead-end of the brake system, ie the caliper ends. So, whatever comes out is likely the worst stuff, no matter how it looks. Also, this way you don’t try forcing fluid back through the ABS valve unit way over at the engine end, which apparently can mess with the seals. By making it ‘only just possible’ for the bleed valve to let fluid out, and you are winding the piston inward, there’s likely no air gets in, usually the bleed valve is the highest point on the caliper when installed, ie air floats up there. My worst-ever experience, is seeing an organic orange growth inside the brake fluid I got out at the caliper. It looked like some kind of stringy stuff inside the fluid…I poured it into the oil bank, it’ll turn up in a chinese ready-meal probably. Good luck.
If possible, remove disc and put the caliper back on its place.
Take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, then you will release the pressure
Fought for an hour trying to push it In. saw the needle nose piers trick, boom. Took 30 seconds. Thanks
I took a 1x2x6 piece of wood and 2 small fence nails to make a spanner wrench. A Texas biker trick😼
Can you make a video.???..but this caliper need to rotate to close the cilinder
I did that too
I thought a Texas biker trick was a girl named Lucy who worked at the truck stop in Plano?
We did the needle nose trick, but had to bring in a second pair of pliers from the side to grab the jaws of the needlenose. This kept us from twisting the pliers into uselessness. Two man job, but it worked.
Had the thought later that this could also be done by a junk socket with the necessary notches cut in the face .
@@ronfox5519 Most G cramps also work as the clamp end then rotates with the piston on closing the cramp, if it doesn't turn then just use pliers to turn it.
Also there is the grinder stop device lever depending on the spacing of the pins.
I used a grinder spanner. Worked perfectly .
Good idea!
Youre a god, thanks✌️🫡
Neat idea.
Aww & i had one in my tool box the whole day ( burned my old wrists with vise-grip pliers uggh! only 3/4 or the way in ) & never thought of that, thank you very much!
Great video. Thanks for info... my little needle nosed pliers weren't up to the job but my bosch angle grinder wrench (used to remove the blade on that machine) worked a treat. Exactly the right size to fit the caliper. Cheers man 🍻
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
💡
Thanks -- I was struggling with this today. I managed to screw it down without the tool using pliers. But gotta do the other wheel tomorrow and I also have a Bosch angle grinder wrench!
@cuyelafarm8005 Also going to mention that as well as the G cramp method with pliers if needed to turn the screw clamp but I find it turns with the force of the turning screw on closing anyway.
This video will be a knowledge booster for a lot of people!
Thanks for watching !
The needle nose pliers work, but that method required a lot of pushing while turning, especially on the first few rotations. The first few rotations are always the hardest. Also, some vehicles don't have outer slots, but round holes to engage in ..... Your needle nose must fit into the holes well and they will slip out quite easily. I can predict some foul language when that happens.
This is so practical and is what I'm looking for.
Thanks for watching !
Yes thank you! Needle nose pliers worked. But fluid squirted out not good. It came out of the back what looks like the e brake and it came out of the piston.
Did you open the brake fluid reservoir cap first?
Best caliper Video in the world. 🎉
Thanks for watching !
awesome! you tube has lots of work arounds made by people who know a good safe short cut and this is one of those $400-800 plus dealer brake repairs that takes about 1 hr or less but you can see where the mark up price and profit kicks in.
i did my 2012 vw cc my self after dealer saying it was 800 bucks to replace brakes on that car simply removed 12 volt wire and back it up with torx tool brakes were $45 at auto zone that was 9 yrs ago again having auto mechanic skills you can sort out the riff raff after a few videos great job man save me worrying about possibly having to bleed brakes which they will say they did at dealer but do not as they dont need it.
My DIY special tool is a U shaped piece of 4 mm wire fitting snugly into diametrically slots of a 24 mm socket with the two legs of the U protruding about 7 mm out of the socket. It makes it a lot easier than battling with long nose pliers. My calliper piston didn't screw in fully, but a slight turn anti-clockwise turn somehow made it go all the way when I resumed screwing it clockwise.
My 2014 ford transit connect is the same. Took me too long to figure that out.
thank you for sharing your insight, visual reference and alternate solutions for depressing this style of caliper piston. i’m immensely grateful.
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Nice video and great insight. Biggest problem though is that when it’s been in service a while the jack screw thing is usually seized. This was my experience couple days ago. No makeshift method was going to shift them. Had to fit 2 new calipers.
Gee willikers… I broke 2 c-clamps trying to press it in like all the other brake pistons I’ve ever done. Hahahaa I hope I didn’t trash them…. I finally gave up at 11pm at night after hours.
Mayyyyybe I shouldn’t ass uuum me… and just take a quick glance at a yoopertube videeyer. Thanks so much!!! I appreciate the two method thingy too. Solid b
Thanks for watching !
Lol, me too. After a few hours, saw a RUclips video explaining how these things work. I did the job a few months ago but now my emergency brake stopped working. Horrible design!
Awesome video and info. 10 years of having cars with these brakes - and i didnt know this. Very lucky to have found this video...👍
Thanks for watching !
This is the fifth video and it's the most helpful one thank you so much I am screaming 🎉❤
You're very welcome ! :)
I ordered the rewind tool from Amazon through your link above. I hope you get credit for it as this was a great video and really saved me a lot of time. Txs!
You're very welcome, and thank you !
Excellent Video…You made what could have been complex for a DIY’er like myself first doing a worm gear caliper to very easy with the right tools..I just bought the tools you used on Amazon to add to my arsenal..and you don’t just need the right tools but know how to use them properly and I thank you for the great demonstration!!!!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
Thanks for the video.
I've had hell of time trying to wind them back! Only to realise here in UK my toyota auris hybrid, it winds Anti-clockwise!!!
I got in a mess after pressing the brake! Realised the piston came all the way out and will not go back in,, pissed out brake fluid all over, so had to clamp the fluid caliper line, open the pipe to relief pressure, only then that the piston can go back and.. anticlockwise.
If memory serves, that’s on THAT side…the other side, it IS clockwise. This is to make the handbrake action work with the fact the cable pulls in one direction no matter which side it’s on? So they make an opposite-handed thread, so the turning of the handbrake arm at the caliper, still makes the side you dismantled, press the piston out…if they didn’t opposite-hand the thread, one side would make the piston retract as the handbrake was pulled, sorta. I have a Prius. I sold the big Rover/Honda Legend I first discovered the need to screw pistons back into calipers, fortunately i realised it was taking way too much hammering…and consulted the manual finally haha!
Just bought the 30 dollar piston kit just to be done with the fuss, 30 bucks well spent. Using needle nose pliers just gives you bloody knuckles.
Thanks for this tip with the needle nose pliers. I didn't have these special tools and thought I was stuck, but the pliers method worked just fine.
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Splendid video! I saw one of those brake cubes once didn't have a clue what it was. I thought it looked cool I figured it was some kind of tool like you need for angle grinders and such. Brakes didn't occur to me as I recall. Now I know thanks!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
@@screwsnutsandboltsYou deserve the credit! I don't know if you might wish to advise me on a difficult presentation I am confronted with on an old Mazda I started a brake repair for and now am stymied to finished because of this style of mechanism. After twenty six years I suppose the caliper doesn't think it owes anybody anything. Change out is not what I was hopeful about. I thought I could just replace the pads. I think I can rent the tool you showed somewhere but after trying a few needle nose plier attacks the piston on this specimen will not budge. Some of the comments indicated that grinder "spanners" have been found helpful. I have to find the one I know I have somewhere around here to give that a try too. But even with the perfectly suitable tool I am beginning to question whether this little guy is going to cooperate.
Watching your video a few more times makes me wonder if getting the parking brake mechanicals loosened up and just taking it apart might work better than trying to jam it back in. Wish me luck. Thanks again for the well done video!
K.Z.
The cube is new to me. Great investment for someone who doesn’t need the professional kit.
It's not a bad little tool ! 👍
And if the cube lugs don't quite fit you can file the buggers down - discovered this yesterday
Great video. New brake calipers are so pretty. FYI, some fords using Bosch brakes, and some Volvos turn opposite depending on the side of the car. So that first tool will not work as intended on one side. But you can still use it by not installing the back plate and just use your own force to press against the piston as you rotate the tool
Thanks for the info!
i seen some videos suggest I should open the bleeder screw when turning as to prevent sediment in the piston from being fed back into the brake line. Any tips regarding that?
I'm just demonstrating the rewinding processes here, but it's probably worth bleeding the fluid as you push the piston in, but make sure you don't get any air into the system.
Awesome video mate, saved me a heap of mucking around
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
THANK YOU!!!! NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS!!!!
You're welcome !
Nice video, I came to know about this video when I was reading harbor fright reviews where someone praising about this video.
Thank you !
thanks a lot for this wonderful video; realy helpful to see how it works; now i have all information i need to make my own tool
you have a new subscriber, good luck
Thanks
Thank you for your support !, I really appreciate it :)
Awesome video man, been waiting for my brake pads in the mail got an 08 fusion doing rear pads and this helped tremendously my first time doing the brakes by myself 👍
You're very welcome !, thanks for watching !
Thanks for giving us a look into the workings of that piston. Nice.
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Hi there , yes heres me trying to use a G clamp ! I think its a bit shy of lubrication so ill fix that too ! and do the back street Billy with the pliers ... thanks Kevin Fullard
I used vcds to retract the electric parking brake on my Passat. I then pushed it the rest of the way to get the new pads in but I didn't turn it while pushing. It seems to be working fine so did I cause any damage ?
I've never actually worked on an electric parking brake system so I don't actually know, sorry
Yes, that is the correct procedure
Absolutely a great video... No words, tons of knowledge. THANK YOU.
Thank you very much ! :)
Thanks for your help. so if I understand correctly, the piston come out straight touching the pad but to compress the piston , turn it clock wise?
You're welcome. That is correct
Depends on the car. Check info on line if you don’t have access to the shop manual or data.
How does the piston move back during normal operation of the brakes so to avoid the pads applying constant pressure on the rotors??? Shouldn't there be some play?
There is a slight amount of suction when you release the brake pedal. This is why car manufacturers tell you to not lube the backs of the pads or the piston face. Some even tell you to apply pressure via the brake pedal for several minutes after getting new pads so they can adhere to pistons before dirt or dust can contaminate them
Thanks!
Thank you very much for the support !. i really appreciate it 👍👍
I have a 12 Impala with a caliper like that. I will have to try the pliers trick. My 84 Monte Carlo was easier to replace the caliper, you pushed the part back in. I am doing my own brake pads for the first time on a newer Chevy. Wish me luck.
Btw it took me forever to find this video, i suggest put Chevy/GM in the title or somewhere so someone else can find it easier too.
The truck worked but I have air in my brake like from doing something idk I didn't need to do via a diff video.
Good going on the video. Helped me with a tough task. Thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
I need helpp on my Cadillac dts the rear caliper is similar to this one your working on, I cannot get piston to come out
I’m having a heck of a time with this. I miss cars with rebuilt carburetors everything back then was fixable.
İsteseler yine tamir ederler! 🫵
Pliers method worked perfect! I didn't know rear calipers had to be twisted and I was fuckin stumped. I watched the video and was like "fuck. I don't have fancy brake tools!" Then I saw the needle nose pliers and give it a shot. Fucking perfect! Also crack the bleeder valve to release pressure if your having a hard time. Make sure you don't lose too much fluid by topping up master cylinder if needed. Great video, thank you!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching ! :)
This video answers a LOT of questions! I recently got a 2013 Chevy Volt and in the Service Manual it says to rotate the rear pistons in to retract them and I wondered why, since my previous vehicle was a 2007 Hyundai Elantra and those just went straight in. Turns out the reason is the Parking Brake: on my Elantra it used a little drum brake in the middle of the rear brake disc, complete with springs and an adjuster. The lever was a standard handbrake type you could pull up.
On My Volt there's a Parking Brake button on the dashboard you pull that operates a motor behind the left rear wheel that pulls cables to set the brake (you can even 'double set' it by pulling the button twice). Those cables obviously pull the levers that turn the jackscrew to push the piston out to set the brake.
While you could use the Handbrake on my Elantra to stop it in an emergency by pulling it up while holding the button down, there is no mention of using the Parking Brake on my Volt to do that in the Owner's Manual. From what I've read you would only want to do that as a measure of extreme last resort, since it would most likely lock the rear wheels up.
I remember seeing those cubes at the parts store and wondering what they were for. Now I know.
Thanks for watching !
Excellent video but does not show how to remove and replace the inner seal which on a worn or stuck caliper will need to be done. Also agree with the comment below pointing out the required proper alignment of the dimples at 6 and 12 o'clock which is critical to preventing caliper failure.
Thanks, the video is only focused on methods of resetting the caliper piston.
Shouldn’t the groves be aligned in the same direction each time after pushing it in?
I use needle nose plyer. Work as well as this tool. If you have to fight to get piston back in you need new caliper
Hi, just changed my brakes and noticed the rear left caliper piston rubber is split. Is it easy enough to just repapce the rubber ratyer than whole caliper?
It should be easy enough to replace. This video shows the process: ruclips.net/video/K15SXPpQUbE/видео.html
Note: The seal could be different depending on the caliper type
My cube doesn’t fit my Mazda calipers, I’ve struggled with the pliers. Last time I just “sent it” and used a c clamp for pressure and rotated the body with channel locks. Sub optimal but got it done. Should have gone and borrowed the tool, but just sharing as it works in a pinch.
If you want a serious set of blood blisters, use the needle nosed pliers.
lol :)
or get your husband to do it.
I just snapped a C clamp in half trying to do it like a true American. I guess I need a new caliper, because I fucked it up.
Side bar. "PUT THE FUCKING LUG STUDS ON THE INSIDE OF THE RIM"
Yes but if if you cant turn it and nothing happening both side??what we can do it??
Check on line to see which way yours turn. Not all turn the same way. On my Ford, the LH turns clockwise, the Right hand side turns counter clockwise. Some Volvos, and possibly Mazda, other European cars may do the same as my Ford breaks were made in Germany by Bausch.
For me, this lesson does worth a $uper thanks!
Cheers !
I couldn't get it to go in far snuff, this video hopefully saved me 500 bucks, I might not need a new caliper😅😅
Thanks for watching !
Please advise if the brake fluid hose should be disconnected?
It doesn't have to be disconnected but it would probably make it easier to rewind the piston it it was.
Perfect explanation, thank you
Thanks for watching !
Nicely done and thanks for sharing your expertise. I'll try the plier method...cheaper
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Thank you for your video. This was very helpful.
You're very welcome!
👍 very good and instructif video , this help me very much thanks
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Thanks a lot. It was of a great help to me. Very informative vedio.
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
With out this I was stumped, thank you
Thanks for watching !
Pozdrav potrebna mi je jedna informacija hocu kupiti nove brisace za golfa peticu zanima me koje dimenzije idu na prednju šajbu i na zadnju šajbu malo je glupo pitanje izvinjavam se.😊
Hi, the dimensions I found are:
Front: 24" & 19" (600mm & 475mm)
Rear: 13" (330mm)
Díky!
Thank you for your support Martin, I really appreciate it ! 👍👍
Hallo,
Thanks for this prima Info.
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Great help and a really clear explanation ! Thanks
You're welcome!
Nicely done video but let’s address the elephant in the room: those calipers are a terrible design. They are essentially a single use design.
I believe it’s best to replace the caliper if you live in a northern climate that uses salt on the roads in the winter. Pushing the possibly rusty piston back through the piston seal can damage the seal and cause leaks. The piston dust boot is sometimes not enough to protect the piston from rust due to water and salt ingress.
New caliper also. Used ones don't work like that.
I wonder if this will work if the piston is all the way out almost touching the caliper? Can the piston come out of screw ?
Yes the piston can be pushed out of the screw if it comes out too far. If you line it up with the threads properly you can use this method to screw it back in. If it has popped out from the caliper, it may have let some air get into the system and you will need to bleed that caliper once the piston is back in place.
The rear caliper are handed, left right,in relation which direction you turn the piston.
Some are. Check the data for yours on line. Mine are and I found the section of the shop manual for my care on line, google search
Das war sehr hilfreich.
Thanks for watching !
I push the piston with a g clamp and turn piston with a vise grip anti clockwise
The problem we have on this type of brake caliper is when it won't ratchet. I've never took them apart, just replaced them. Some one working on older Cadillacs told me to hammer on the caliper while ratcheting it (we specialize on Cadillacs). Something inside is rusted & you're trying to break it loose. I have no idea what. Can you elaborate on why they stop ratcheting?
Ive managed to retract the piston half way using the needle nose pliers, I cant seem to get it to retract anymore no matter how hard I push or how much I rotate the piston. Any advice?
Does the car have an electronic handbrake ?
@@screwsnutsandbolts No, it doesn't. I managed to get it to retract after using a clamp in conjunction with threading it clockwise. I guess I couldn't leverage enough clamping force by hand? Thank you for responding though!
No problem, glad you sorted it !
I just did the brakes on a 16 Escape and the right rear brake is dragging. I borrowed the tool from the parts store, but the tool wouldn't fit correctly. I had to start the job with the tool then finish with my pliers. I've got the screw turned in all the way, but can't figure out why it's still putting pressure on the pads.
Do the pads move relatively freely back and forward in the caliper bracket ?. Sometimes rust and dirt can build up underneath the shims and the pads can seize in the bracket. It could also be a sticking piston
@screwsnutsandbolts I cleaned them best I could and lubricated before putting it back together. Thinking maybe parking brake could need adjustment on that wheel
You don't show the part where you struggle to get the piston past the main seal which until that point the first tool can't be used with the plate (though the tool problem is probably caliper dependent)
saving this video for future reference.
Will this work if i have electric brakes? Asking for 2018 Mercedes S series
On most electric brakes you need a bidirectional scan tool and must command the controller to retract the electric brake before you can compress it
Thank you so much for this video i hadmade a catistrafic error today.
when i had removed the caliper (electronic parking break) I got distracted and turned on the ignition which fully released the calliper piston automatically, so i was unable to manually twist the bolt inside the motor horsing to get it to retract again.
As bolt was just spinning.
(also pissi*** out breaK fluid.
goingby your video do you think I had just not lined up the thread's.
So difficult to explain.
I'm not sure to be honest, I've never actually worked on a caliper with an electronic parking brake. Have you watched this video: ruclips.net/video/zJKm08pV9EI/видео.html
@@screwsnutsandbolts thank you so much that's exactly my issue. I'm definitely in deep Shit! :) Legend for responding really appreciate
You're very welcome, good luck getting it sorted !
What happens if I turned the piston counter-clockwise?
Exactly what I needed!
Thanks for watching !
Hundai verna2012 back break galiber oring hit irukuma sir
Nice video and informative , thanks a lot .
Thankls for watching !
Very usefull video! Thanks!
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
You saved me! Great video
You're very welcome !
Nice.
👍
Thanks.
You're welcome !
TOP!!! Thank you for share!!
You're welcome, thanks or watching !
Thank you!
You're welcome !
After depressing the piston with the tool the tool will no longer unscrew to release, the handle turns only a few degrees. It's like the worm gear screw or whatever inside the piston/caliper is stuck. Been letting penetrating oil to soak and trying to wiggle back and forth but the loaner tool and my caliper are stuck together lol
Tighten the body of the tool clockwise to release it, don't twist the handle. You may need to use a spanner if it has wedged tight
Yes the best!!!!!❤❤😊
Thank you !
Easy to do when the caliper is new. Do it after 50-100,00 miles...
I just did mine yesterday... and it's 99,000 miles. Just takes a bit of elbow grease.
ano , na novom strmeni to ide :-) skús to ukázať na aute na starom strmeni poriadne skorodovanom , kliešte stačiť nebudú :-)