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Hi, this video is great, thanks - explains so much. I love your clarity. But now I'm confused about how much a measuring tape should follow the body's contours when taking measurements. I don't recall the measurement video really specifying eg if the tape should contour inwards below the bust when taking the vertical and slope measurements - but won't a fitted bodice be too short if it doesn't allow for the bend between apex and waist?

Thank you so much for this series. I now have the best fitting pants I've ever had. Took a couple of redrafts but it works great. Now I just want to learn how to use the sloper for creating different styles of pants. Any suggestions welcome. Than you again.

It is so wonderful to find a person teaching pant drafting that also has a droopy bottom. This condition for me alway cause me to have saggy fabric under my droopy bottom as well as drag lines going from the front around the side of the leg to the knee. I haven't watched the whole video yet but my guess that is a common problem with droopy bottom as well.

How do I do this without darts, for a man?

Hello! I'm running into a scenario where my angle between the bust point and K is sloped downwards. Is this acceptable or should I remeasure? Also, I love the thorough explanation of this system, it's even helped me choose the best big 4 pattern size when I use them!

My problem is designing to fit my back, and sleeves. I have a dowager's hump with rounded shoulders. If you can post a video for such a problem, it would probably be a great help, for me and many other older women.

Hi Maria, thank you so much for the trouser block series. I've waded through it twice so far (wow!) and will be going through it repeatedly as I try to draft my trouser block. I'd be grateful if you could offer some advice about me own issues. I'm an older lady and was always had slim waist, hips, bottom and thighs but, unfortunately, during the Covid lockdowns I put on some weight around my waist and tummy area that is proving very hard to move. Watching your videos I realise that I have become an apple shape and so I'll be basing my own pattern on your instructions for Anne. However, my bottom is still flat (non-drooping) and my upper thigh circumference is smaller than the 60% assumed in pattern drafting. My measurements are as follows: Waist 32.5" High Hip 38.25" Low hip 37" Upper thigh 20" (i.e. 54% low hip) Front waist to crotch 9.75" Back waist to crotch 14.75" I am concerned that I will have too much fullness in the thigh area. All the adjustment videos I have watched suggest shortening the crotch curve and lengthening crotch to waist seam higher up but if I do this I'm wondering if there will be far too much fabric around my bottom. Could you please suggest a suitable way to reduce the volume?

AT LAST !!!! THANK YOU !!!

By far the best video on block drafting. I've read at least a dozen books and watched who-knows-how-many videos, and they always have "standard assumptions" which they never explain. I knew they existed, but it baffles me that even lessons intended for professionals never bother to mention this stuff. Thanks from another "athletic but still drop bottom" club member. 👍

Hello Maria, I enjoy your videos because they are very detailed. I'm trying to draft my front bodice and came up with a question. Why do you use total waist circumference divided by 4 for the front instead of using a measured front waist arc just like you did for the bust. I have a slim torso such that my back waist is shorter (15.5") and protruding front (18). Will I get the same result for the waist dart?

I am a bit overwhelmed with all of this but I am sure if I watch it several times over it will make more sense. Thanks so much for taking all this time, I have bought the pdf books. I am an Aussie but still prefer imperial, I know what an inch or 5 inches are without having to grab a tape measure. Maria you are a jewel!

These videos are pure gold 🙏🏼

Thank you for these tutorials. I’ve drafted using the Helen Joseph Armstrong book but could never quite get the fit right. So when moving into drafting shirts they just looked so bad. I’ve just drafted the sleeveless bodice block and it fits! No further adjustments than needed. Thanks so much. I’m now in a much better place to actually make clothes that fit me. Now to start on the trouser block.

Love your tutorials. Can't imagine the time put into all the excellent, clear imagery in addition to the instructions themselves. Learning a lot from you (and actually understanding why drafting decisions are made, rather than just following a formula!)

Thanks so much for your tutorials ❤ you're my favourite ❤😊

Hi Maria, This lesson on Contouring is very helpful. Is this lesson on the same path for making an actual Bra Cup? I would love to make a full support bra that won't ride up my back when I bend over. Thanks Maria!

As an Australian, I appreciate that you put links to your work in metric and imperial! ❤ Also I'm getting caught on the thight & crotch - green and red line. I mean, how is it calculated? Do you measure your thigh and add that to the hip measurement? Thats about the only ways it's making sense to me atm, but it is only my first watch through. 😮 Anyone who can explain please do. 🙏 👍 ❤

Your instructions is marvellous... think I'm a bit thick.. would need you by my side . I found it very I yetesting. Thank you so much x😊

I love this talk about Bottoms and thighs. Fabric MCotton with 2% Spandex generally. I was curious to see how 3 different Jean Designers designed the Foundation crotch curve for high waist jeans. Total J Curve circumference split 60% Back 40% Front. Only Old Navy were shy, and that's probably why they were not comfortable. Back 58% and front 42%. Thanks Marie!

Hi Maria, After watching all the RUclips adjustment lessons that need to be done for a purchased Pant Pattern, I said no way. I can't do that. I don't want to do that over and over again. Truly Maria, your lessons are the most valuable lessons in Logic I have learned since earning a professional license years ago. I retired and haven't been able to use those skills since the pandemic began. LOL This was a wonderful exercise for my brain, in thinking for a Community of Women. This is an exercise in Women's health! Balancing what we need for the front, and that so abused back crotch line. As a woman I'm tired of being kicked in the Butt by first the fashion industry, and then by our Government in this one shape fits all. I've watched all 5 parts of your Series a few times now and have really studying hard. So many notes that I am having a hard time organizing them. Since Covid I have had a hard time recalling measurements, calculating ease over and over again. That process is too much. Your draft method only assumes 1" of ease at all the Cardinal Points above the Crotch, which makes things so much easier for those who lack some short-term Memory. Draft for a Slack and you can't go too far wrong. I am trying to think like a drafter with one Rule for all the body types in relationship to the crotch width. I'm tired of being a baggy butt for Designs planned for the Standard 10" difference between waist and hip while being well over 5.5 feet tall. All my family is well over 5.5 feet tall. I love your J-String measuring apparatus! If that J-String pulls down more than a hair when sitting, we have balancing to do! Most of us sit far to long and spread. LOL ie Front and back difference is 2.5". That clues me into the what will be needed to draft the back bum to balance the waist, instead of coming up too short. Today I had a mathematical J-Curve Revelation in knowing where we stand, before Scooping to make Cheek Room. In all cases use the widest hipline measurement including ease, as the width of the Foundation to begin with. In all cases assume a side seam "invisible" dart/dart equivalent, to centre the waistline on the Foundation with dart/darts. If the the high hip is largest, use that measurement including the high hip "ease" as the width of the Crotch Line, Assume low hip height to be 2.75" above the crotch. Curve side seam between the waist and crotch height ignoring the smaller dimension of the lower hip when blending. ie high hip including ease 43 divided by 4 = 10.75". Actual thigh 20" divided by 2 = 10" Extension equals .75"? on front pant block. Here I am going to extrapolate knowing that there is a 2.5" difference in length between the front and back J curves. 2.5" - .75" front extension = 1.75" additional length needed for the back Block. Lower the back crotch depth 1.75". 2.5" difference - 1.75" = Add 0.75" Raise the BACK waist height by 0.75" through the centre bum? Getting in the right ballpark for the front and back J Curves will mean everything to me at the Waist. Your right, how can anyone deign a lower waist pant where they are missing that customized seat! Happy Sunday Maria. The last 4 hours was a hallelujah for me. Little adjustments will be so much easier. I can do this and not add a baggy bum, or not so bad! Smile!

Hi, wat us mean by 3/8 inch ease

Slide 17:37 , the photo doesn’t match with the graph. The photo was pointing at the bust line (blue) whereas the graph’s arrows are pointing the upper bust line (orange). Though it’s clear you were talking about the upper bust line.

Hi! Mam ,can u plzz tell why pant inseam pulling upward.

Thank you thank you thank you!! Been taking drafting course and was going nuts why I have gaping neckline even though the bodice fitted me well. Peoblem solved!

Hi Maria, I'm going through your series again before attempting a block, while keeping my sister in mind. A back injury and steroids have left her with no waist, and a stooped posture. Like me, she would be widest at the upper hip; like Ann, where there would be a 6.25" difference between the hip and waist. Trying to think this through because of the stooped posture at the crotch extension. I have a moldable ruler and a ring that will slide to find the centre of the crotch. Is there anything special I should be considering for her block length? LOL I would love to make us a matching pair of Track Suits so we can pull a Betty White! I am going to owe you one big, big Cup of Coffee! Warmest thanks.

Very interesting, especially the thigh & low crotch measurements! It's always such a frustrating fitting area for me. I can't wait to try this!

I might as well make some beautiful coordinate for a beautifully fitted bodice! Learning from someone who knows the math is enlightening. I'm going to re - watch and make sure I understand why 2 3/4" is assumed to be my low hip. Shift, shift! Oh those thighs can chap on a sea/saw! LOL Thanks Maria.

Oh, thank you so very much! I followed along so much more easily with the imperial Additions to the side seams! If I could ask two general questions? Question... Should the back waist dart go as high as the front Apex? I've never used a dart so long at the waist. Thank you for including the picture of the dart widths for B, C, and D Cups for the Upper Chest Method! Question ... Are the Waist Dart widths in addition to what I would normally use as a dart width? I normally add 2 inches to my total waist to make the curve down to my hips less sharp.

I came a longggggggg way today following your Playlist of explanations. Thank you! I totally got lost when you used Metric for the instruction for A to Z for the computer screen demonstration. Redoing with CM to Inch later! I don't draft online, but another RUclips Pattern Maker does. She said that the lower leg of the Dart is usually longer. Add the difference to the horizontal dart leg, and that forms the dart tip! Haven't tried it yet. Still folding paper.

This is the greatest lesson to learn how to create problems for yourself trying to fix Commercial Standards! I'm into this Baby. There go my plans for a Saturday night! Haha Thanks!

This is brilliant lesson and solves so many problems shifting empty Space around after a Bust Adjust! The logic of not adding extra width to the waist to dart away, starts at the Upper Bust. The extra ease needed starts at the front underarm as width, plus a small amount more, narrowing down to the waist. This is truly Top Down - Center Out! I am jumping for Joy! Thank you for erasing 5 years of dreadfully shifting grain lines because of darting! So many problems gone because of small shoulders! Time to Celebrate! Cheers to you my British Cousin. Honking out from Canada eh!

Beautiful Dreamer song with a beautiful voice. Discovering all the Formula's that make a Bodice fit is the dream. Thank you

I knew there had to be a better way. Drafted my first bodice to the upper bust with just a 3" shoulder line and got the right and shoulder slope. Did an FBA and my pattern still looked flat. Then I closed the waist dart into the arm dart at the right height. After all this work I still had 3" of ease at the bust and 2.5" of ease at the waist. I was working toward a vest, but that won't keep me happy for long. I'm here to learn. Thank you Dresspatternmaking!

Hi Maria , I have to take measurements with Bra or without, because some times the Bras have a cushion so big and the measurements can vary 4 cms. I´m 64 years old and my bust is fallen so that's the reason because I don´t know if I take it with or without Bra, another doubt is if I have a big back and little bust the measurements are almost the same in arc center bust, do I have to make changes to the bodie block or not. Thank you very much for your work which helps me too much. Sorry my English, I´m Mexican.

Por favor me explicas la diferencia entre corpiño métrico y corpiño imperial

Is there a video for scaling this to fit dolls?

At 15:07 After erasing H, what do you do? Do you redraw the line G to A and make sure that it goes through H3/ new bust point?

I followed along with directions. When I finished my block and tried it against my body there seemed to be no ease. I measured it across to see if it wS correct and each piece seemed to have 1/4" ease. Making it 1/2 "ease in total. Any suggestions as I feel that might not be enough ease. I haven't added the seam allowance yet?

Thank you so much for all of your content Maria - it has been invaluable to me as a narrow torso with large bust figure. All of my front bodice drafts have ended up too short from full bust to waist , even when i triple checked my CF and FL front measurements - it’s just when the dart is closed for my moulage and toile , the shaping , which fits beautifully at bust , hikes the waistline up - easily fixed by adding 2cm to the lower edge of drafted block from CF through waist dart and blending to my measured side length at side seam .

Thank you so much for all of your content Maria - it has been invaluable to me as a narrow torso with large bust figure. All of my front bodice drafts have ended up too short from full bust to waist , even when i triple checked my CF and FL front measurements - it’s just when the dart is closed for my modulage and toile , the shaping , which fits beautifully at bust , hikes the waistline up - easily fixed by adding 2cm to the lower edge of drafted block from CF through waist dart and blending to my measured side length at side seam .

Made it through this far!

How about.. how do we buy a dolly that's right for us?

❤❤❤ getting excited !!!

Thank you ❤

Hello! Thank you for these videos! I am trying to draft a block using your standard block measurements but I do not see a measurment for the J-K side bust depth on any of your charts. May I ask what the standard side seam bust depth is for your size 12 block and size 14 block? Thank you!

Thank you so much for this series. I'm self taught and I've been struggling so much to make myself patterns. 🫰💕 Thank you Maria 🙏

I'm diving in for my petite body with curves. I'm off to part 2 and starting to draw them up. Thank you SOOOO MUCH!!!!! Best explanation I've found so far for any body that is not a standard size!

Thank you so much.

Thank you soo much, awesome video❤ I am illuminated 😅

Question: What do I do if my bust mound circle goes off of my pattern block at the center front? I have a large bust-waist difference, and it's been impossible to draft anything with triangles or cups in the bodice, like a halter-style dress, for example.