I've traveled all over US to study with nationally known instructors. Tried more than 6 systems of pants drafting. Always too much fabric below butt. Needs a vertical fisheye dart from butt to knee. I always thought the thigh circumference and the crotch extensions should correlate, but nobody ever mentioned it...until you! I binge watched all your videos yesterday. I plan to try your pants draft and also the new bodice draft in the next few weeks. Thank you, Maria.
Hello Stitchknit. Thanks for the comment. I can't stress enough, however, that the basic pant block (i.e. one pattern piece with no design lines) won't result in a perfect fitting pair of pants for everyone. Some people will have bagginess in the back leg; specifically those people with a dropped bottom and small thighs. There is a certain width needed for their bottom, and then it reduces quite suddenly to the small Upper Thigh. On top of this, if the pant is cupping the bottom, the bottom will pull the fabric down creating some more fabric pooling under the bottom. The other problem with the Dropped Bottom is a length needed for sitting down is longer than the length needed when standing upright. (Not saying you have a dropped bottom, but this particular body shape is the one that does get a lot of fabric pooling underneath the bottom and so I'm using it as an example). I have seen two 'fixes' for this problem ( the problem of bagginess under the bottom) on the internet; one is a horizontal fish-eyed dart around the knee level, or a vertical fish-eyed dart between the bottom and the knee. I have found that both of these 'fixes' produce other problems. They 'fix' the problem so that it looks perfect while you are standing still, but as soon as the person walks or sits down, then they don't have enough room in the pants. The overriding problem is the body is a VERY different shape sitting down than it is standing up, or moving. In my personal opinion, it is better to get the best fit possible in the foundation and thighs, and fix any residual bagginess in the back leg with (a) stretch fabric AND (b) design lines AND/OR style. (The fish-eyed darts you mentioned can be incorporated into a vertical design line. This is why vertical design lines are really common nowadays). Vertical design lines in back and front leg are good for doing the kind of shaping that I, and others with my kind of shape, need. (I also have learned to like and live with the 'dropped front crotch point' look, which solves some of my issues, but it isn't the classic well fitting look).
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes, dropped bottom, high hip largest, thighs 52% of largest hip. I'm Anne, the measurements you use for her are mine except her thighs are larger. I'm eager to try your draft. I know perfect is not realistic.
I just read the other comments below and I just can't agree more! Incredibly outstanding content! Wow. Thank you very much for giving all that information.
Dear Maria, Thank you very much for your tutorials. After 30 years of occasionally trying to make my own pants, I finally did it. I made perfectly fitting pants that look so good on me. Without your tutorials (And the tutorials from J. Stern Design, also on RUclips, credit where credit is due.. Full knee adjustment.), I couldn't have done this. I will forever be grateful to you for all the efforts you have made to inform us, 'poor' ladies with a non-standard figure!!! Now I'll never have to go from one store to another looking for a pair of pants that will somehow 'fit'... I'll make them myself, and they'll be perfect. I'm so happy!
Hello Daniela, very glad that you got a good result. I can't express how glad i am to be wearing well fitting comfortable clothing now after all of the years of uncomfortable clothing. For me it was definitely worth all the work and trial and error. (Otherwise I'd still be wearing uncomfortable clothing).
Outstanding! This is one of the most impressive pattern drafting videos for pants, that I’ve ever seen ~ and I’ve seen many, and have been sewing for many many years.
Just on the first watch-thru, this made a lot of sense. More than some of the other videos I have watched. I can't wait to get through the other parts. And the graphics were a tremendous help. Thank you so much for your time and effort to include those.
I'm diving in for my petite body with curves. I'm off to part 2 and starting to draw them up. Thank you SOOOO MUCH!!!!! Best explanation I've found so far for any body that is not a standard size!
After 20+ years of not dressmaking and at age 73 thought I would try to make some pants. I am a very straight shape with a 34ins waist and 39ins hip, tilted waist which is 3ins higher at CB. Although I am average height at 5ft 7ins my inseam is 33ins. Your excellent instructions on measuring was so helpful. I never considered taking hip measurements from my waist at the side rather than CF before! Will be starting to draft a pattern after watching your next video.
New-ish to sewing... was trying to draft a pants pattern based on a pair of pants that fit me well, failed miserably. Found these videos. First muslin following the instructions and making modifications to suit my body was nearly spot-on. Amazed and grateful. (I bought the booklet on KoFi which was super useful - highly recommend!)
This is extraordinary info, at least in the way it is presented. I've never seen anyone explain so clearly how standard measurements work and how to incorporate non-standard bodies. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your video tutorials and explaining the theory of drafting for different bodies. Pants never fit me right and I was able to make a pants block that fits perfectly thanks to you!
Hi Paula, I am very pleased. Both for you, and for the fact that my system is working. I get more and more comments like yours, and I have to say I feel very pleased!
I am so incredibly impressed with your tutorials! You offer a huge volume of details that are very helpful ~ and rarely offered in any other tutorials. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
Hello Diana, thank you for your positive feedback. Unfortunately I've had so much to do recently that I haven't had a chance to make more tutorials. I hope to be doing so again in a month or so.
You’re very thorough in explaining the process of drafting a pattern. Thank you for helping me understand my body shape and how to make clothes fit. Amazing tutorial! Can’t thank you enough 🙏🙏🙏
I might as well make some beautiful coordinate for a beautifully fitted bodice! Learning from someone who knows the math is enlightening. I'm going to re - watch and make sure I understand why 2 3/4" is assumed to be my low hip. Shift, shift! Oh those thighs can chap on a sea/saw! LOL Thanks Maria.
@@Dresspatternmaking I got so much more than that! :) Watched your videos several times and taken steps to measure myself etc - not quite at the actual pattern making stage yet, but I thought I'd share that these little humorous titbits were additionally enjoyable, too. :)
As an Australian, I appreciate that you put links to your work in metric and imperial! ❤ Also I'm getting caught on the thight & crotch - green and red line. I mean, how is it calculated? Do you measure your thigh and add that to the hip measurement? Thats about the only ways it's making sense to me atm, but it is only my first watch through. 😮 Anyone who can explain please do. 🙏 👍 ❤
I understand I think the choice to use imperial measurements over metric. But I would like to say that you have followers who would love to have metric pants videos. I know this takes time that could be spent putting out videos on other patternmaking. I have found your methods good enough I have been using Google to convert measurements. Thank you
I know.... I would really like to refine the system into one set of instructions (one video). When I can get around to that, I'd do both metric and imperial versions. Given that I haven't had time to write content for months, that's going to be a long way off. But yes, I understand.
This was a great video, thank you very much for sharing! And what a revelation, I found out that my widest part is my crotch line, still have to watch the other parts, so that I have a wider perception! One question, though, does this knowledge also affect the skirt pattern situation, because, till now, I thought that my widest part was my low hip???
Hi! Thanks so much for this video! I am cutrently following along trying to make my block. I have a question regarding the hip measurements portion of the video. I can’t quite seem to sort out where the two different measurements are to be taken, and what is meant by depth here? If we are measuring 2 inch 3 quarters from the crotch area, would I be measuring from the front then? In the video it said to measure 4-5 inches down from waist, so wouldn’t that be the depth there automatically? Sorry I’m struggling a bit with understanding that part, probably a language barrier thing as well. Thanks so much again for this great video tutorial.
Thank you so much for these tutorials. I can't wait to draft my pants pattern for the 50 11th time! LOL I've done OKAAAY; but I think this information you offer which is new to me will make a difference. I do have a question. I'm mostly thin and I appear to be straighter from a frontal view because the weight of my behind is literally BEHIND me, not set high and not so low. Also My waist is 32 inches and a 40 inch hips. That would seem that I'm between two of the body types to which you refer. How do I determine which formula to use for my pattern? Thanks in advance!
Thank you so much!!! This was a lifesaver I’m 5’11” and the traditional blocks have not been working. I would like to draft some pants for my boyfriend, will this method work for him?
Hello Gates, drafting for men is a bit different as they have a different body shape. They need more ease in the crotch area for the obvious reason, and their waist shaping is also different. It's not enormously different, but I don't think you'll get a decent result using instructions for women.
Hi Maria, I'm going through your series again before attempting a block, while keeping my sister in mind. A back injury and steroids have left her with no waist, and a stooped posture. Like me, she would be widest at the upper hip; like Ann, where there would be a 6.25" difference between the hip and waist. Trying to think this through because of the stooped posture at the crotch extension. I have a moldable ruler and a ring that will slide to find the centre of the crotch. Is there anything special I should be considering for her block length? LOL I would love to make us a matching pair of Track Suits so we can pull a Betty White! I am going to owe you one big, big Cup of Coffee! Warmest thanks.
As a non-standard person, I didn't have much luck with blocks and patterns created for the standard type. Even a measurements-based block system didn't work right, probably because it makes too many assumptions around crotch curve and thighs. I have only watched this first video, but already I am hopeful this will get me closer to a decent pair of pants. I would take a thousand measurements for the sake of less rounds of toile-fix-toile-fix..I ran out of old sheets with the last method and used up an entire roll of swedish tracing paper too, and still didn't get a good enough fit to sew it in real fabric.
@@Dresspatternmaking I sewed it up today, and I am a little perplexed with the results. I have some pooling of fabric between my rear and my knees. My horizontal lines seem to droop at the sides, but my waist seems to be lower than I had measured it before, and the crotch curve junction between front and back pieces came out strange. As expected, I need to make some adjustments to the side seam for the 'not straight stack of quarters' effect, and when I sat down my knee line hiked up several inches, the back of waist dragged down further than desired, and everything was still too snug between knee and waist--not enough ease even after I'd added more. My measurements seem to vary quite widely between the beginning and end of a day, so I'm going to try it on again in the morning and see what that changes. I will probably redo my drafting to make sure I haven't made mistakes somewhere.
@@kristinahartman920 - Hello Kristina, as you said, first try redrafting to see if you have made a mistake. If it still comes out strange, I can have a quick look at it. You will need to go to my website and go to the Pants Drafting page. Write a comment listing your measurements and a upload photo of your draft. Make sure the photo is is straight on not at an angle. (Put it on 5e floor and you are looking directly down. If it is on an angle I won’t be able to assist). In order to upload the photo you will need to create an account - you can’t upload an image as a guest. You really do need to be sure of your crotch lengths - front and back. If your back waist drags down when you sit, it sounds like yiu don’t have your crotch length right. i will have a quick look at your draft and may be able to give you an idea of where you may be going wrong. However it may be a couple of days before I can get to it as I’m not well at the moment.
@@kristinahartman920 - Further to the above, please check your measurements very well. Every time so far I have assisted someone who has had problems it has ended up being a mistake in measurements or drafting.
Thanks for the helpful video. I have one question: did I understand you correct, that the low hip measurement should be taken at between 2/4 and 3/4 inches from the crotch line? I am not familiar with the imperial measurement. I converted this measurement to cm and it seems to be only 2 cm above the crotch. That doesn't look at all like your drawing, in proportion to the other length measurements. The widest part of my body is at crotch high, and I always struggle with this deviation when using standard block pattern. So I am really thankful that you refer to this issue in your video, really keen to get it right finally.
Thank you, this is wonderful! RTW pants rarely fit me well, and the styles I like aren’t really on trend right now (= impossible to find). Do you have any advice on adjusting this block for a tighter fit? I assume I need to reduce the ease (and crotch extension?), any pointers on how much and where would be much appreciated.
Hello Molindela, sorry for not answering sooner. When you say you 'assume you need to reduce the ease', have you actually drafted the block? The ease included is for slacks. I don't use the 'crotch extension' in my instructions, I use the thigh measurement. I really can't give you any pointers on how much to reduce the ease as I don't know how tight you like your clothes. I can only say... draft the block, then you decide how much ease to remove from it. (As I said, the instructions are for Slacks, when you draft jeans you not only reduce the ease but also increase the crotch length... but that's another topic).
Hello and thanks for the video. Is low hip the lower waist, the one we normally take for men? Is this high waist pants? How to calculate crotch if you forgot to measure it on client, is it hip/4? Do we draft the pattern then cut off waist band from it thereafter? Your kind assistance will be appreciated 🙏
I followed along with directions. When I finished my block and tried it against my body there seemed to be no ease. I measured it across to see if it wS correct and each piece seemed to have 1/4" ease. Making it 1/2 "ease in total. Any suggestions as I feel that might not be enough ease. I haven't added the seam allowance yet?
Hi can u help me.. I made a pants pattern for the first time. my question is when I lay down the front and the back side of the pattern. Do I have to have the crouches facing each other when I lay it down on the fabric? Or should they be facing outwards ?
Hi Maria, loving all of your detailed videos. I just had a query if you had thought of started drafting a pants block from using the crotch curve first?. I've never heard or seen anyone do this method though. I've used the flexible ruler to gauge "my bowl" term used by some bloggers. My crotch curve shape is definitely different to standard patterns. I have a flat bum and little podge belly and have a heart shape kinda figure. I've drafted a few pants blocks now and have a good fit for a loose / palazzo style but I want more of a cigarette style. I just can't get the front crotch right, sending me crazy! My proportions aren't too way off. W - 31, HH -36, LH -38. Total crotch rise 25, crotch depth 9.5. Would you say I would be more in the ball park of Anne's type? And I know we are in another Lock-down in Sydney but do you do one on one classes? I'm just trying to get the holy grail of fitting... Thanks for all the wonderful pattern making content!
Hi Ronda, no I must admit I hadn't thought of using the crotch curve first. I do think that if use your thigh measurement and get your measurements, the crotch curve ends up being right. Most of the problem with crotch curves I think is due to the thigh measurement not being taken into account in most systems. I don't live in Sydney anymore, I live in South Australia now.... And you are welcome... I feel bad that I haven't posted anything for a while, but life and health have gotten in the way. I am working on some dress patterns and will be posting something in the next month. Cheers.
As I didn’t want the expense (and the possible problems) of paying for licensed music for my RUclips Intro, I chose a song in the Public Domain (Beautiful Dreamer is in the Public Domain), and I made that recording. That’s me singing and that’s my guitar.
Really well done. If possible, I have a model that I am tired of and need your help to make the pattern. How do I send you the model... I will be thankful to you
Hello Rana, I am not in a position to be able to give free one-on-one assistance to the 20,000+ people who visit my website and my RUclips channel. I have provided detailed instructions so that those who wish to can learn can draft their own custom blocks. I have given thousands of hours of my time in writing instructions and giving away that information for free. Beyond that, I can only give people a few minutes of my time to answer simple questions. If this is something that is important to you, you will need to apply yourself and learn to do it for yourself. Good luck.
Curious how to address if the back waist is higher than the front? I'm not talking about style, I mean when I walk around with your "sumo nappy" (love that name. lol) without any pulling or such, it always ends up with the back being higher by almost 2 inches. I know it's supposed to be parallel to the ground, and I always start that way, but it just doesn't stay that way. I tried adding additional tape to the "nappy" part but then it does a weird gaping at the back when sitting and ends up sagging when I then stand back up. If I tighten the "nappy" then it pulls uncomfortably off the waist. So when starting the initial drafting, will this matter since the measurements are taken from the side? The front and the side seem to be the roughly the same, just slightly shorter in front by a 1/4 inch. I've already watched through all 5 videos a couple times (GREAT, by the way) and now starting to follow them. So I'm also confused how this will effect the foundation drafting later on when I start plotting it all out? Do I just cut and shift, like from the hip point? That's my guess, but that's just what I've done in other patterns.
Ack, I think I figured out what is happening. It's the back fat, when I relax and forget about the elastic, it slips into that "groove" lifting it up higher than the rest. Soooo....silly me. :)
@@Naturally336 I don't know about the pants waist needing to be parallel to the floor. In my case, if I want them to comfortable, they never are. Even if I draft a pair of pants to the waist and I put them on and they start with the waist parallel to the floor, as soon as I walk/move/sit, the waist invariably ends up sloped - higher in back, lower in front. I'm sure this is due to my body shape and the pants moving to the 'path of least resistance'. I have a small high rounded stomach and the front waist tends to 'collapse' to the hollow underneath my stomach. Even with stretch, even if I have belt on it just doesn't say that way - unless I cinch it tightly around my waist which I won't do because that's extremely uncomfortable for me. So then adding in my large bottom and sway back, the pants always just gravitate to that sloped position. My preference is pants that have a dropped waist and in this case they always end up with quite a marked slope. .... And I'm not sure why the waist needs to be parallel to the floor. Maybe this is a rule that works with the Standard Figure (upright posture, smallish bottom, certain front/back crotch length proportion, etc), but it doesn't work for me and I'm sure it just doesn't work for many people.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for clarification. I think I was over thinking it. But it actually makes more sense now why you take the vertical measurements going down the outside of the leg. I was always taught to go down the front or back and since my weight and shape can fluctuate...it was never the same. Your way is so much more logical!
@@Naturally336 - The reason you measure down the outside of the leg is so the side seams match. If you measure just down the front and the back and they are different lengths (which in most cases they will be), then you have to make an adjustment at the side seam otherwise you can't sew them together. So it makes sense to start with the side seam measurement as it is common to the front and the back. The way that the length down the front and the back will (or should) end up correct (and different to the side seams) is by the use of the crotch length, separated into the Crotch Length Front and Crotch Length Back. In applying that, you get the correct shaping from the side seam down to the front and up to the back (usually the front length is shorter than the back).
Sorry about the delay in answering, I'm haven't had any time to work on my website or RUclips Channel for a few months now. I really do want to make a video on taking measurements, but I'm having a few challenges. I don't have anyone to be a model and will have to find and pay a professional model. That has it's own challenges in the COVID environment (how do you maintain social distancing when taking measurements?) and I also don't have anyone to take the video, which means it will just take longer and present more challenges.... I'm working on it, but can't say when it will be done....
Here’s a wild question… what is your waist is the biggest measurement? For example, during pregnancy. Can you still measure the body the same way with a pregnant belly or is a whole different method needed?
Hello Rachel N I haven't really considered pregnant women when creating my system. I would not recommend drafting your (first) block while you are pregnant mainly because you will run into some issues. I don't have the time to help people one-one-one to sort out those issues. Those who have been making their own patterns for a while and have a working understanding of patternmaking theory could probably draft patterns to fit. I think if you already have a block and you put on only the minimum recommended weight for pregnancy, you could use your block and adjustments/patterns for your belly. Such as - for pants - an elasticized section for the belly (just one example). Or for dresses - draft Empire Style patterns with a lot of ease under the bust. This would all depend on the amount of weight a woman puts on. If they put on a lot of weight, that would be a different story. I have looked in my patternmaking textbooks and I can't see anything specifically for pregnancy, so I think it would be a case of (a) drafting patterns that allow for a large belly (A-line, Empire Line, etc) , and/or (b) using more stretch rather than woven fabrics. Of course some women put a lot of weight on in their breasts, so they would have to also do a large bust adjustment. I think a lot of this would be difficult for people just learning to draft patterns, but if you have a block and have been drafting patterns for a bit you could think through the issues and and draft patterns to fit.
I am very broad hipped with a large swayback and protruding butt at the top, it used to be nicely rounded, it's now a little flat on the bottom, I kinda look like a ski jump cross with a half deflated beach all, and a smaller stomach. What body shape would I be closer to?
Hi there, I know you wrote this ages ago, but I'm going back and answering all the comments I didn't get to on the off chance you still want an answer. When I wrote these instructions, I didn't say that all women would fit into one of these four shapes. My aim was to work through some different shapes and problem solve, hoping to, within these three shapes, to cover most of the fitting issues. (I didn't succeed 100% because there are a few issues I missed). My hope was that people would folllow along with the problem solving and get the skills necessary to solve their own particular fitting issues. That means I was expecting people to watch all of them and take what was relevant to them from each figure. This might sound like too much work for some people, but it is really impossible for me to write instructions for every single unique figure, and my target audience has always been those people who want detail and are wanting to learn in depth rather than just follow steps without real understanding.
Which shape am I? Waist 30.5-31.5” , high hip 34-35.5” , low hip 38-39” Am I averag mi I know e? I don’t think I am because it seems my waist and high hip is always bigger and less I when I look at size charts. Also I don’t know what a drop butt is but I have most of my butt on the bottom and the upper by part is flat but I have a small one in general
I am not 100% sure, but I think dropped butt is when the fullest part is basically crutch level, I believe I would be there I am very much the triangle with 3-4dize difference on patterns from waist to hip, and it is lower from waist than standard
I use Illustrator, it's not a pattern drafting program, it's but I think some indie patternmakers use it because the industry software programs are so expensive. If you are drafting patterns to sell, I don't think grading patterns is that easy in Illustrator. (I don't make patterns to sell and therefore don't do grading. I use it for myself and for creating the graphics I use).
Hi Cleanqueen The basic pants block is for use with woven fabric. You will need to reduce the ease when working with knits. The amount you reduce it will depend on the amount of stretch in the fabric. You would generally create a stretch pants block from your woven block, and have on it 3 or 4 options for differing amounts of stretch. I have written explanations and instructions for how to do this for the Bodice Block, but haven't yet done it for the Pants Block. It is on my list, and I'll get there eventually, but I can't imagine that will be in the next six months. The general information on my website about reduction for stretch may be of interest: www.dresspatternmaking.com/blog/reduction-in-width-for-stretch-blocks
Hello Haelena, No, I wouldn't think so. I haven't looked at patternmaking for Men, but I imagine drafting pants for men would be quite different. Mens' body shape is different and they want/need a different fit due to their 'equipment'.
@@Dresspatternmaking yes, i thought so .. but i hoped it would work with all the customized measurements 😅 but thanks a lot! It's great information none the less
Hi Sharon. I'm not sure I understand you. The 'crotch length' is a construct that the garment industry use to work out the thigh measurement. Given that this doesn't work for those with non-standard figures, and my 'thing' is non-standard figures, it makes much more sense just to use the thigh measurement. Which is what I do. You can see the resultant 'crotch length' after drafting with your thigh measurement. Measure the difference between your hip and your thigh. Keep in mind that this is drafting Slacks (not trousers which have more ease added to the thigh).
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you for the prompt feedback. I still don't understand the explanation with the 'elastic and string thing' in determining the exact measurement for the crotch as explained in 18mins into your video. Will give it another listen for clarity again.
Learn to draft Mrs Armstrong’ s pant pattern; it is correctly done. Then you can adjust the rest of pattern to fit customer. To learn-re-learn, and correct my knowledge of patternmaking, I went to Muller und Sons in Germany, Munich. This is THE very best school, especially, for patternmaker. Good luck..!!
Hello Augenia, As I explain in my videos, there are a lot of 'assumed measurements' in Armstrong's block making instructions, just as there are in most pant-block-making instructions - because they are based on the 'Standard Figure' which is used in the ready-to-wear industry. They need to use a 'Standard Figure' in order to be able to grade their patterns. . I don't think it's helpful for most people who have non-standard figures to (as you said) make the pattern for a Standard Figure, "then adjust the pattern to fit the customer' (or oneself). It makes sense to me to write instructions that don't contain assumptions, which is why I've devised my own system. I have had had many people have success with my system, after not being able to get a well-fitting block with other systems. Thank you for your concern, but I don't need 'luck'. I have a well fitting block because I devised my own system that includes the thigh and the correct way to get extra crotch length (rather than in the thigh which is where most block making instructions put it).
@@christophercarterbirts2175 - Given the difference in men's anatomy, the pants front left and right are difference - i.e. the crotch length of the Pants Front Right is different to the Pants Front Left. This is called 'dressing' - extra material on one side to accomodate the male anatomy. And the tighter the leg, the more ease needs to be added into the 'dressing' to accomodate the 'male anatomy'. I also think that the crotch depth is deeper for men's pants. In addition to all this, the foundation of the back pants for the Standard Male seem much more sloped than for the Standard Female. This all means that you won't really get the best result for men's pants following intructions for women's pants. Having said, you'll probably get closer to it using my instructions since some of the assumptions have been removed.
Here is a link to the Pants Part 2
ruclips.net/video/TJQ_4RbKolM/видео.html
I've traveled all over US to study with nationally known instructors. Tried more than 6 systems of pants drafting. Always too much fabric below butt. Needs a vertical fisheye dart from butt to knee. I always thought the thigh circumference and the crotch extensions should correlate, but nobody ever mentioned it...until you! I binge watched all your videos yesterday. I plan to try your pants draft and also the new bodice draft in the next few weeks. Thank you, Maria.
Hello Stitchknit. Thanks for the comment. I can't stress enough, however, that the basic pant block (i.e. one pattern piece with no design lines) won't result in a perfect fitting pair of pants for everyone. Some people will have bagginess in the back leg; specifically those people with a dropped bottom and small thighs. There is a certain width needed for their bottom, and then it reduces quite suddenly to the small Upper Thigh. On top of this, if the pant is cupping the bottom, the bottom will pull the fabric down creating some more fabric pooling under the bottom. The other problem with the Dropped Bottom is a length needed for sitting down is longer than the length needed when standing upright. (Not saying you have a dropped bottom, but this particular body shape is the one that does get a lot of fabric pooling underneath the bottom and so I'm using it as an example).
I have seen two 'fixes' for this problem ( the problem of bagginess under the bottom) on the internet; one is a horizontal fish-eyed dart around the knee level, or a vertical fish-eyed dart between the bottom and the knee. I have found that both of these 'fixes' produce other problems. They 'fix' the problem so that it looks perfect while you are standing still, but as soon as the person walks or sits down, then they don't have enough room in the pants. The overriding problem is the body is a VERY different shape sitting down than it is standing up, or moving.
In my personal opinion, it is better to get the best fit possible in the foundation and thighs, and fix any residual bagginess in the back leg with (a) stretch fabric AND (b) design lines AND/OR style. (The fish-eyed darts you mentioned can be incorporated into a vertical design line. This is why vertical design lines are really common nowadays). Vertical design lines in back and front leg are good for doing the kind of shaping that I, and others with my kind of shape, need. (I also have learned to like and live with the 'dropped front crotch point' look, which solves some of my issues, but it isn't the classic well fitting look).
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes, dropped bottom, high hip largest, thighs 52% of largest hip. I'm Anne, the measurements you use for her are mine except her thighs are larger. I'm eager to try your draft. I know perfect is not realistic.
I just read the other comments below and I just can't agree more! Incredibly outstanding content! Wow. Thank you very much for giving all that information.
Guys, please DO FOLLOW the tutorial. I got 95% accuracy. The best tutorial to create a pant block for different figures.
This is my beloved instructor in whom I am well pleased 🥰
Thank you 🤗
You are so welcome. Thanks for the nice comment.
Definitely one of the best fitting videos I have seen. Thank you for your clear and concise instructions (without any chit chat)!
Dear Maria, Thank you very much for your tutorials. After 30 years of occasionally trying to make my own pants, I finally did it. I made perfectly fitting pants that look so good on me. Without your tutorials (And the tutorials from J. Stern Design, also on RUclips, credit where credit is due.. Full knee adjustment.), I couldn't have done this. I will forever be grateful to you for all the efforts you have made to inform us, 'poor' ladies with a non-standard figure!!! Now I'll never have to go from one store to another looking for a pair of pants that will somehow 'fit'... I'll make them myself, and they'll be perfect. I'm so happy!
Hello Daniela, very glad that you got a good result. I can't express how glad i am to be wearing well fitting comfortable clothing now after all of the years of uncomfortable clothing. For me it was definitely worth all the work and trial and error. (Otherwise I'd still be wearing uncomfortable clothing).
Outstanding! This is one of the most impressive pattern drafting videos for pants, that I’ve ever seen ~ and I’ve seen many, and have been sewing for many many years.
Thank you Diana. I still have to refine my system a little further, but I do hope eventually to make it easier and more precise.
Just on the first watch-thru, this made a lot of sense. More than some of the other videos I have watched. I can't wait to get through the other parts. And the graphics were a tremendous help. Thank you so much for your time and effort to include those.
I'm diving in for my petite body with curves. I'm off to part 2 and starting to draw them up. Thank you SOOOO MUCH!!!!! Best explanation I've found so far for any body that is not a standard size!
Brilliant! I love anyone who challenges assumptions and also thumbs her nose at body shaming. I am off to draft a pattern for my dropped bottom.
Hi Christine, good luck.
After 20+ years of not dressmaking and at age 73 thought I would try to make some pants.
I am a very straight shape with a 34ins waist and 39ins hip, tilted waist which is 3ins higher at CB.
Although I am average height at 5ft 7ins my inseam is 33ins.
Your excellent instructions on measuring was so helpful.
I never considered taking hip measurements from my waist at the side rather than CF before!
Will be starting to draft a pattern after watching your next video.
The CF and CB measurements can be very different to each other and the pants needs to be he same measurement at the side seam.
Excellent.. Very logical... I like the flow... Precise and very clear to understand...
Phenomenal video, this is the stuff I pay to learn at University. Fantastic job, thank you for your time and effort.
Thank you Emma.
New-ish to sewing... was trying to draft a pants pattern based on a pair of pants that fit me well, failed miserably. Found these videos. First muslin following the instructions and making modifications to suit my body was nearly spot-on. Amazed and grateful. (I bought the booklet on KoFi which was super useful - highly recommend!)
Thank you so much for free video. Finally I understood pants pattern.
This is extraordinary info, at least in the way it is presented. I've never seen anyone explain so clearly how standard measurements work and how to incorporate non-standard bodies. Thank you so much!
You are most welcome!
Thank you Maria. So so informative and useful for a beginner who wants to make great outfits.
Just finished watching pants part one. This is what I need as I was ready to give up after 4 muslin tries. Saw my non-standard shape in the diagram 🌞
Very interesting, especially the thigh & low crotch measurements! It's always such a frustrating fitting area for me. I can't wait to try this!
It is definitely the best explained drafting tutorial. Thank you!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the work you put into this!
And thank you for the positive feedback, much appreciated!
Thank you so much for your video tutorials and explaining the theory of drafting for different bodies. Pants never fit me right and I was able to make a pants block that fits perfectly thanks to you!
Hi Paula, I am very pleased. Both for you, and for the fact that my system is working. I get more and more comments like yours, and I have to say I feel very pleased!
I am so incredibly impressed with your tutorials! You offer a huge volume of details that are very helpful ~ and rarely offered in any other tutorials. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
Hello Diana, thank you for your positive feedback. Unfortunately I've had so much to do recently that I haven't had a chance to make more tutorials. I hope to be doing so again in a month or so.
Your instructions is marvellous... think I'm a bit thick.. would need you by my side . I found it very I yetesting. Thank you so much x😊
so well prepared and thorough, I thank you so much for your time in making this, I appreciate it very much
Glad it was helpful!
Extraordinary content - thank you so much for sharing you knowledge and experience with us 🙏🏼
You're welcome and thank you.
Thank you so much for your pants drafting tutorials, helping me a lot.🙏🙏🙏
You are so welcome!
@@Dresspatternmaking 😊
I cannot express how wonderfully helpful your content is!! Do you have instructions for how to build the trouser block from the slacks block?
This video series is amazing! Thank you!
Thank you.
You’re very thorough in explaining the process of drafting a pattern. Thank you for helping me understand my body shape and how to make clothes fit. Amazing tutorial! Can’t thank you enough 🙏🙏🙏
I might as well make some beautiful coordinate for a beautifully fitted bodice! Learning from someone who knows
the math is enlightening. I'm going to re - watch and make sure I understand why 2 3/4" is assumed to be my low hip.
Shift, shift! Oh those thighs can chap on a sea/saw! LOL
Thanks Maria.
Su forma de explicar y la teoría es maravillosa. Gracias por todo el esfuerzo puesto en el video.
Hola Quimera, muchas gracias. Lamento que me tomó tanto tiempo para responder.
“Then my pants ended up looking like a very unflattering pair of jodhpurs” and “sumo-nappies” made me laugh out loud 😂
Glad that you at least got a laugh.
@@Dresspatternmaking I got so much more than that! :) Watched your videos several times and taken steps to measure myself etc - not quite at the actual pattern making stage yet, but I thought I'd share that these little humorous titbits were additionally enjoyable, too. :)
As an Australian, I appreciate that you put links to your work in metric and imperial! ❤
Also I'm getting caught on the thight & crotch - green and red line. I mean, how is it calculated? Do you measure your thigh and add that to the hip measurement? Thats about the only ways it's making sense to me atm, but it is only my first watch through.
😮 Anyone who can explain please do. 🙏 👍
❤
What an amazing tutorial I am hooked on your site such attention to detail. Thanks so much 😍
Thanks Wendy
Great explained ❤️👌👌🙏
Thank you so much 🙂
Thank you for sharing information that is so vital, moving on to part 2 🥰
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent tutorial .
Thank you Maria!!! Wonderful work! 😍😍😍
I understand I think the choice to use imperial measurements over metric. But I would like to say that you have followers who would love to have metric pants videos. I know this takes time that could be spent putting out videos on other patternmaking. I have found your methods good enough I have been using Google to convert measurements. Thank you
I know.... I would really like to refine the system into one set of instructions (one video). When I can get around to that, I'd do both metric and imperial versions. Given that I haven't had time to write content for months, that's going to be a long way off. But yes, I understand.
This was a great video, thank you very much for sharing! And what a revelation, I found out that my widest part is my crotch line, still have to watch the other parts, so that I have a wider perception! One question, though, does this knowledge also affect the skirt pattern situation, because, till now, I thought that my widest part was my low hip???
Hi! Thanks so much for this video! I am cutrently following along trying to make my block. I have a question regarding the hip measurements portion of the video.
I can’t quite seem to sort out where the two different measurements are to be taken, and what is meant by depth here?
If we are measuring 2 inch 3 quarters from the crotch area, would I be measuring from the front then?
In the video it said to measure 4-5 inches down from waist, so wouldn’t that be the depth there automatically?
Sorry I’m struggling a bit with understanding that part, probably a language barrier thing as well.
Thanks so much again for this great video tutorial.
Thank you soo much, awesome video❤ I am illuminated 😅
Thank you so much for these tutorials. I can't wait to draft my pants pattern for the 50 11th time! LOL I've done OKAAAY; but I think this information you offer which is new to me will make a difference. I do have a question. I'm mostly thin and I appear to be straighter from a frontal view because the weight of my behind is literally BEHIND me, not set high and not so low. Also My waist is 32 inches and a 40 inch hips. That would seem that I'm between two of the body types to which you refer. How do I determine which formula to use for my pattern? Thanks in advance!
Thank you so much!!! This was a lifesaver I’m 5’11” and the traditional blocks have not been working. I would like to draft some pants for my boyfriend, will this method work for him?
Hello Gates, drafting for men is a bit different as they have a different body shape. They need more ease in the crotch area for the obvious reason, and their waist shaping is also different. It's not enormously different, but I don't think you'll get a decent result using instructions for women.
Very good for happy hip trouser.
Hi Maria, I'm going through your series again before attempting a block, while keeping my sister in mind.
A back injury and steroids have left her with no waist, and a stooped posture. Like me, she would be widest
at the upper hip; like Ann, where there would be a 6.25" difference between the hip and waist.
Trying to think this through because of the stooped posture at the crotch extension.
I have a moldable ruler and a ring that will slide to find the centre of the crotch. Is there anything special
I should be considering for her block length?
LOL I would love to make us a matching pair of Track Suits so we can pull a Betty White!
I am going to owe you one big, big Cup of Coffee!
Warmest thanks.
Genius! Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Hello, Dresspatternmaking. it's a particularly really video. thank. :)
You are welcome.
As a non-standard person, I didn't have much luck with blocks and patterns created for the standard type. Even a measurements-based block system didn't work right, probably because it makes too many assumptions around crotch curve and thighs. I have only watched this first video, but already I am hopeful this will get me closer to a decent pair of pants. I would take a thousand measurements for the sake of less rounds of toile-fix-toile-fix..I ran out of old sheets with the last method and used up an entire roll of swedish tracing paper too, and still didn't get a good enough fit to sew it in real fabric.
Hi Kristina, sorry I haven't been around for a while and am responding to your comment a month late. Did you make the block?
@@Dresspatternmaking I haven't sewn it yet, no, but I pinned it up in swedish and it looks very promising.
@@Dresspatternmaking I sewed it up today, and I am a little perplexed with the results. I have some pooling of fabric between my rear and my knees. My horizontal lines seem to droop at the sides, but my waist seems to be lower than I had measured it before, and the crotch curve junction between front and back pieces came out strange. As expected, I need to make some adjustments to the side seam for the 'not straight stack of quarters' effect, and when I sat down my knee line hiked up several inches, the back of waist dragged down further than desired, and everything was still too snug between knee and waist--not enough ease even after I'd added more. My measurements seem to vary quite widely between the beginning and end of a day, so I'm going to try it on again in the morning and see what that changes. I will probably redo my drafting to make sure I haven't made mistakes somewhere.
@@kristinahartman920 - Hello Kristina, as you said, first try redrafting to see if you have made a mistake. If it still comes out strange, I can have a quick look at it. You will need to go to my website and go to the Pants Drafting page. Write a comment listing your measurements and a upload photo of your draft. Make sure the photo is is straight on not at an angle. (Put it on 5e floor and you are looking directly down. If it is on an angle I won’t be able to assist).
In order to upload the photo you will need to create an account - you can’t upload an image as a guest. You really do need to be sure of your crotch lengths - front and back. If your back waist drags down when you sit, it sounds like yiu don’t have your crotch length right.
i will have a quick look at your draft and may be able to give you an idea of where you may be going wrong. However it may be a couple of days before I can get to it as I’m not well at the moment.
@@kristinahartman920 - Further to the above, please check your measurements very well. Every time so far I have assisted someone who has had problems it has ended up being a mistake in measurements or drafting.
Thank you
Hello Hope, you're welcome.
Thanks for the helpful video. I have one question: did I understand you correct, that the low hip measurement should be taken at between 2/4 and 3/4 inches from the crotch line? I am not familiar with the imperial measurement. I converted this measurement to cm and it seems to be only 2 cm above the crotch. That doesn't look at all like your drawing, in proportion to the other length measurements. The widest part of my body is at crotch high, and I always struggle with this deviation when using standard block pattern. So I am really thankful that you refer to this issue in your video, really keen to get it right finally.
1 inch = 2.54cm, so 2 & 3/4 inches = 2.75 x 2.54 = about 7cm. (6.985cm).
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you so much for quick response! That makes so much more sense! :)
Thank you
Very clear
18:36 Crotch length measuring tool start.
22:13 Drafting materials, paper width needed
11:50 Trouser, slack and jeans ease
Thank you, this is wonderful! RTW pants rarely fit me well, and the styles I like aren’t really on trend right now (= impossible to find). Do you have any advice on adjusting this block for a tighter fit? I assume I need to reduce the ease (and crotch extension?), any pointers on how much and where would be much appreciated.
Hello Molindela, sorry for not answering sooner. When you say you 'assume you need to reduce the ease', have you actually drafted the block? The ease included is for slacks. I don't use the 'crotch extension' in my instructions, I use the thigh measurement. I really can't give you any pointers on how much to reduce the ease as I don't know how tight you like your clothes. I can only say... draft the block, then you decide how much ease to remove from it. (As I said, the instructions are for Slacks, when you draft jeans you not only reduce the ease but also increase the crotch length... but that's another topic).
Hello and thanks for the video. Is low hip the lower waist, the one we normally take for men? Is this high waist pants? How to calculate crotch if you forgot to measure it on client, is it hip/4? Do we draft the pattern then cut off waist band from it thereafter? Your kind assistance will be appreciated 🙏
Wow well done you.
I thank you so much❤❤❤
I followed along with directions. When I finished my block and tried it against my body there seemed to be no ease. I measured it across to see if it wS correct and each piece seemed to have 1/4" ease. Making it 1/2 "ease in total. Any suggestions as I feel that might not be enough ease. I haven't added the seam allowance yet?
Thanks
ฉันชอบสิ่งนี้มากๆ😍😍😍😍😍😍
Your voice is the best🥵
Thank you KEREN, but I am confused about the unhappy looking emoji!
@@Dresspatternmaking the emoji is for “hot” 🙂🙃
@@sandiebrown9521 Thanks for clearing that up for me. I thought it was angry.
Hi can u help me.. I made a pants pattern for the first time. my question is when I lay down the front and the back side of the pattern. Do I have to have the crouches facing each other when I lay it down on the fabric? Or should they be facing outwards ?
Hi Maria, loving all of your detailed videos. I just had a query if you had thought of started drafting a pants block from using the crotch curve first?. I've never heard or seen anyone do this method though. I've used the flexible ruler to gauge "my bowl" term used by some bloggers. My crotch curve shape is definitely different to standard patterns. I have a flat bum and little podge belly and have a heart shape kinda figure. I've drafted a few pants blocks now and have a good fit for a loose / palazzo style but I want more of a cigarette style. I just can't get the front crotch right, sending me crazy! My proportions aren't too way off. W - 31, HH -36, LH -38. Total crotch rise 25, crotch depth 9.5. Would you say I would be more in the ball park of Anne's type? And I know we are in another Lock-down in Sydney but do you do one on one classes? I'm just trying to get the holy grail of fitting... Thanks for all the wonderful pattern making content!
Hi Ronda, no I must admit I hadn't thought of using the crotch curve first. I do think that if use your thigh measurement and get your measurements, the crotch curve ends up being right. Most of the problem with crotch curves I think is due to the thigh measurement not being taken into account in most systems. I don't live in Sydney anymore, I live in South Australia now.... And you are welcome... I feel bad that I haven't posted anything for a while, but life and health have gotten in the way. I am working on some dress patterns and will be posting something in the next month. Cheers.
Oh..there it is!!
????
HI can you please tell me the artists singing this version of Beautiful Dreamer at the beginning of your videos??
As I didn’t want the expense (and the possible problems) of paying for licensed music for my RUclips Intro, I chose a song in the Public Domain (Beautiful Dreamer is in the Public Domain), and I made that recording. That’s me singing and that’s my guitar.
Thankyou
You are welcome.
Hey. Does this block and measurements work for men’s denim jeans?
Hello Kabo, Sorry no. Drafting for men is different, especially pants I think...
Really well done. If possible, I have a model that I am tired of and need your help to make the pattern. How do I send you the model... I will be thankful to you
Hello Rana, I am not in a position to be able to give free one-on-one assistance to the 20,000+ people who visit my website and my RUclips channel. I have provided detailed instructions so that those who wish to can learn can draft their own custom blocks. I have given thousands of hours of my time in writing instructions and giving away that information for free. Beyond that, I can only give people a few minutes of my time to answer simple questions. If this is something that is important to you, you will need to apply yourself and learn to do it for yourself. Good luck.
Hi! Mam ,can u plzz tell why pant inseam pulling upward.
Curious how to address if the back waist is higher than the front? I'm not talking about style, I mean when I walk around with your "sumo nappy" (love that name. lol) without any pulling or such, it always ends up with the back being higher by almost 2 inches. I know it's supposed to be parallel to the ground, and I always start that way, but it just doesn't stay that way. I tried adding additional tape to the "nappy" part but then it does a weird gaping at the back when sitting and ends up sagging when I then stand back up. If I tighten the "nappy" then it pulls uncomfortably off the waist. So when starting the initial drafting, will this matter since the measurements are taken from the side? The front and the side seem to be the roughly the same, just slightly shorter in front by a 1/4 inch.
I've already watched through all 5 videos a couple times (GREAT, by the way) and now starting to follow them. So I'm also confused how this will effect the foundation drafting later on when I start plotting it all out? Do I just cut and shift, like from the hip point? That's my guess, but that's just what I've done in other patterns.
Ack, I think I figured out what is happening. It's the back fat, when I relax and forget about the elastic, it slips into that "groove" lifting it up higher than the rest. Soooo....silly me. :)
@@Naturally336
I don't know about the pants waist needing to be parallel to the floor.
In my case, if I want them to comfortable, they never are. Even if I draft a pair of pants to the waist and I put them on and they start with the waist parallel to the floor, as soon as I walk/move/sit, the waist invariably ends up sloped - higher in back, lower in front. I'm sure this is due to my body shape and the pants moving to the 'path of least resistance'.
I have a small high rounded stomach and the front waist tends to 'collapse' to the hollow underneath my stomach. Even with stretch, even if I have belt on it just doesn't say that way - unless I cinch it tightly around my waist which I won't do because that's extremely uncomfortable for me. So then adding in my large bottom and sway back, the pants always just gravitate to that sloped position.
My preference is pants that have a dropped waist and in this case they always end up with quite a marked slope. .... And I'm not sure why the waist needs to be parallel to the floor. Maybe this is a rule that works with the Standard Figure (upright posture, smallish bottom, certain front/back crotch length proportion, etc), but it doesn't work for me and I'm sure it just doesn't work for many people.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for clarification. I think I was over thinking it. But it actually makes more sense now why you take the vertical measurements going down the outside of the leg. I was always taught to go down the front or back and since my weight and shape can fluctuate...it was never the same. Your way is so much more logical!
@@Naturally336 - The reason you measure down the outside of the leg is so the side seams match. If you measure just down the front and the back and they are different lengths (which in most cases they will be), then you have to make an adjustment at the side seam otherwise you can't sew them together. So it makes sense to start with the side seam measurement as it is common to the front and the back. The way that the length down the front and the back will (or should) end up correct (and different to the side seams) is by the use of the crotch length, separated into the Crotch Length Front and Crotch Length Back. In applying that, you get the correct shaping from the side seam down to the front and up to the back (usually the front length is shorter than the back).
Thanks so much
You are welcome!
Can you make a video on how to take accurate measurements?
Sorry about the delay in answering, I'm haven't had any time to work on my website or RUclips Channel for a few months now. I really do want to make a video on taking measurements, but I'm having a few challenges. I don't have anyone to be a model and will have to find and pay a professional model. That has it's own challenges in the COVID environment (how do you maintain social distancing when taking measurements?) and I also don't have anyone to take the video, which means it will just take longer and present more challenges....
I'm working on it, but can't say when it will be done....
Hi..please revisit the possibility of showing us how to take our own measurements..I have no one to help me!
You're welcome!
Here’s a wild question… what is your waist is the biggest measurement? For example, during pregnancy. Can you still measure the body the same way with a pregnant belly or is a whole different method needed?
Hello Rachel N
I haven't really considered pregnant women when creating my system. I would not recommend drafting your (first) block while you are pregnant mainly because you will run into some issues. I don't have the time to help people one-one-one to sort out those issues. Those who have been making their own patterns for a while and have a working understanding of patternmaking theory could probably draft patterns to fit.
I think if you already have a block and you put on only the minimum recommended weight for pregnancy, you could use your block and adjustments/patterns for your belly. Such as - for pants - an elasticized section for the belly (just one example). Or for dresses - draft Empire Style patterns with a lot of ease under the bust.
This would all depend on the amount of weight a woman puts on. If they put on a lot of weight, that would be a different story.
I have looked in my patternmaking textbooks and I can't see anything specifically for pregnancy, so I think it would be a case of (a) drafting patterns that allow for a large belly (A-line, Empire Line, etc) , and/or (b) using more stretch rather than woven fabrics. Of course some women put a lot of weight on in their breasts, so they would have to also do a large bust adjustment.
I think a lot of this would be difficult for people just learning to draft patterns, but if you have a block and have been drafting patterns for a bit you could think through the issues and and draft patterns to fit.
I am very broad hipped with a large swayback and protruding butt at the top, it used to be nicely rounded, it's now a little flat on the bottom, I kinda look like a ski jump cross with a half deflated beach all, and a smaller stomach. What body shape would I be closer to?
Hi there, I know you wrote this ages ago, but I'm going back and answering all the comments I didn't get to on the off chance you still want an answer.
When I wrote these instructions, I didn't say that all women would fit into one of these four shapes. My aim was to work through some different shapes and problem solve, hoping to, within these three shapes, to cover most of the fitting issues. (I didn't succeed 100% because there are a few issues I missed). My hope was that people would folllow along with the problem solving and get the skills necessary to solve their own particular fitting issues. That means I was expecting people to watch all of them and take what was relevant to them from each figure.
This might sound like too much work for some people, but it is really impossible for me to write instructions for every single unique figure, and my target audience has always been those people who want detail and are wanting to learn in depth rather than just follow steps without real understanding.
How to I know my thigh measurements is bigger than than the lower hip?
Which shape am I? Waist 30.5-31.5” , high hip 34-35.5” , low hip 38-39”
Am I averag mi I know e? I don’t think I am because it seems my waist and high hip is always bigger and less I when I look at size charts.
Also I don’t know what a drop butt is but I have most of my butt on the bottom and the upper by part is flat but I have a small one in general
I am not 100% sure, but I think dropped butt is when the fullest part is basically crutch level, I believe I would be there I am very much the triangle with 3-4dize difference on patterns from waist to hip, and it is lower from waist than standard
Em đăng ký kênh của chị yêu lâu rồi chúc phước lành với chị yêu
Thank you Hung.
What drafting program is that?
I use Illustrator, it's not a pattern drafting program, it's but I think some indie patternmakers use it because the industry software programs are so expensive. If you are drafting patterns to sell, I don't think grading patterns is that easy in Illustrator. (I don't make patterns to sell and therefore don't do grading. I use it for myself and for creating the graphics I use).
Will this work for knit pull on pants?
Hi Cleanqueen
The basic pants block is for use with woven fabric. You will need to reduce the ease when working with knits. The amount you reduce it will depend on the amount of stretch in the fabric. You would generally create a stretch pants block from your woven block, and have on it 3 or 4 options for differing amounts of stretch. I have written explanations and instructions for how to do this for the Bodice Block, but haven't yet done it for the Pants Block. It is on my list, and I'll get there eventually, but I can't imagine that will be in the next six months.
The general information on my website about reduction for stretch may be of interest:
www.dresspatternmaking.com/blog/reduction-in-width-for-stretch-blocks
Does this work for male pants patterns too?
Hello Haelena, No, I wouldn't think so. I haven't looked at patternmaking for Men, but I imagine drafting pants for men would be quite different. Mens' body shape is different and they want/need a different fit due to their 'equipment'.
@@Dresspatternmaking yes, i thought so .. but i hoped it would work with all the customized measurements 😅 but thanks a lot! It's great information none the less
I wish you demonstrated the part for the crotch lengh
Hi Sharon. I'm not sure I understand you. The 'crotch length' is a construct that the garment industry use to work out the thigh measurement. Given that this doesn't work for those with non-standard figures, and my 'thing' is non-standard figures, it makes much more sense just to use the thigh measurement. Which is what I do. You can see the resultant 'crotch length' after drafting with your thigh measurement. Measure the difference between your hip and your thigh. Keep in mind that this is drafting Slacks (not trousers which have more ease added to the thigh).
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you for the prompt feedback. I still don't understand the explanation with the 'elastic and string thing' in determining the exact measurement for the crotch as explained in 18mins into your video. Will give it another listen for clarity again.
Hì chị yêu
Hi there!
@@Dresspatternmaking Xin chào chị yêu xinh đẹp khỏe không
🥰💞💞💞💞👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you!
Learn to draft Mrs Armstrong’ s pant pattern; it is correctly done. Then you can adjust the rest of pattern to fit customer. To learn-re-learn, and correct my knowledge of patternmaking, I went to Muller und Sons in Germany, Munich. This is THE very best school, especially, for patternmaker. Good luck..!!
Hello Augenia,
As I explain in my videos, there are a lot of 'assumed measurements' in Armstrong's block making instructions, just as there are in most pant-block-making instructions - because they are based on the 'Standard Figure' which is used in the ready-to-wear industry. They need to use a 'Standard Figure' in order to be able to grade their patterns. . I don't think it's helpful for most people who have non-standard figures to (as you said) make the pattern for a Standard Figure, "then adjust the pattern to fit the customer' (or oneself). It makes sense to me to write instructions that don't contain assumptions, which is why I've devised my own system. I have had had many people have success with my system, after not being able to get a well-fitting block with other systems. Thank you for your concern, but I don't need 'luck'. I have a well fitting block because I devised my own system that includes the thigh and the correct way to get extra crotch length (rather than in the thigh which is where most block making instructions put it).
I am a man. Can I use this tutorial?
Hi Ahtoh, this is for drafting womens' slacks. Mens' body shape is different and therefore men's patternmaking is different than for women. So... no.
I feel like it could. Just make it according to your measurements lol
@@christophercarterbirts2175 - Given the difference in men's anatomy, the pants front left and right are difference - i.e. the crotch length of the Pants Front Right is different to the Pants Front Left. This is called 'dressing' - extra material on one side to accomodate the male anatomy. And the tighter the leg, the more ease needs to be added into the 'dressing' to accomodate the 'male anatomy'. I also think that the crotch depth is deeper for men's pants. In addition to all this, the foundation of the back pants for the Standard Male seem much more sloped than for the Standard Female. This all means that you won't really get the best result for men's pants following intructions for women's pants. Having said, you'll probably get closer to it using my instructions since some of the assumptions have been removed.