This is fantastic, thank you so much. I really appreciate the different figure types being shown. As a non standard figure I've been dreading drafting a pants sloper from my standard drafting textbook. Now I can't wait to get started.
Seriously a lifesaver you made these videos! I have a 14 inch difference between my waist and hip, for years I only wore skirts because pants were borderline impossible to find haha
I’ve been on a quest to make a great fitting pair of slacks, and had made 10 mock-ups in the last month using a block I’d made from a fashion pattern making book. I was so vexed! I have a small waist and a large, low-set hip and each change I made to my pattern seemed to spawn new issues. Using your non-standard block instructions, I have a block I’m happy with after two mock-ups, and each required only small tweaks. Thank you so much for uploading these videos, they’ve saved me from throwing my sewing machine out the window in frustration. I appreciate your time and expertise
This series is the best I have found in 50 yrs of sewing and even paying for a tailoring course. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and technical knowledge.
Hi Maria, After watching all the RUclips adjustment lessons that need to be done for a purchased Pant Pattern, I said no way. I can't do that. I don't want to do that over and over again. Truly Maria, your lessons are the most valuable lessons in Logic I have learned since earning a professional license years ago. I retired and haven't been able to use those skills since the pandemic began. LOL This was a wonderful exercise for my brain, in thinking for a Community of Women. This is an exercise in Women's health! Balancing what we need for the front, and that so abused back crotch line. As a woman I'm tired of being kicked in the Butt by first the fashion industry, and then by our Government in this one shape fits all. I've watched all 5 parts of your Series a few times now and have really studying hard. So many notes that I am having a hard time organizing them. Since Covid I have had a hard time recalling measurements, calculating ease over and over again. That process is too much. Your draft method only assumes 1" of ease at all the Cardinal Points above the Crotch, which makes things so much easier for those who lack some short-term Memory. Draft for a Slack and you can't go too far wrong. I am trying to think like a drafter with one Rule for all the body types in relationship to the crotch width. I'm tired of being a baggy butt for Designs planned for the Standard 10" difference between waist and hip while being well over 5.5 feet tall. All my family is well over 5.5 feet tall. I love your J-String measuring apparatus! If that J-String pulls down more than a hair when sitting, we have balancing to do! Most of us sit far to long and spread. LOL ie Front and back difference is 2.5". That clues me into the what will be needed to draft the back bum to balance the waist, instead of coming up too short. Today I had a mathematical J-Curve Revelation in knowing where we stand, before Scooping to make Cheek Room. In all cases use the widest hipline measurement including ease, as the width of the Foundation to begin with. In all cases assume a side seam "invisible" dart/dart equivalent, to centre the waistline on the Foundation with dart/darts. If the the high hip is largest, use that measurement including the high hip "ease" as the width of the Crotch Line, Assume low hip height to be 2.75" above the crotch. Curve side seam between the waist and crotch height ignoring the smaller dimension of the lower hip when blending. ie high hip including ease 43 divided by 4 = 10.75". Actual thigh 20" divided by 2 = 10" Extension equals .75"? on front pant block. Here I am going to extrapolate knowing that there is a 2.5" difference in length between the front and back J curves. 2.5" - .75" front extension = 1.75" additional length needed for the back Block. Lower the back crotch depth 1.75". 2.5" difference - 1.75" = Add 0.75" Raise the BACK waist height by 0.75" through the centre bum? Getting in the right ballpark for the front and back J Curves will mean everything to me at the Waist. Your right, how can anyone deign a lower waist pant where they are missing that customized seat! Happy Sunday Maria. The last 4 hours was a hallelujah for me. Little adjustments will be so much easier. I can do this and not add a baggy bum, or not so bad! Smile!
OOF !!! A lot of work went into this presentation... Thank you so much for doing this... :) I am still at the novice drafting stage and found this so complex... Who would have thought pant-making could be so complicated. I know I will need to these videos quite a few times to fully understand. Thank you again for taking the time to do this... :) I have been following along with paper and coloured pencils, over a period of 2 days and I still don't have it down pat... I'm a slow learner (LOL)...
I, as many viewers have stated as well, have been looking for a method to get a sloper that will fit my body. I am disappointed when I purchase pants. I have searched many drafting instructions and been disappointed. Your instructions are so spot-on. Thank you!!!
Hi Maria, thank you so much for this series of videos, I love it that you are the first to talk about non standard body shapes! I have been so frustrated with 'traditional' drafting methods, that I have stopped trying to draft my own pants (thankfully, I have found a RTW brand that works for me, with the help of forgiving stretch fabrics ;) I have a body shape that is closer to yours, with a 40 cm (15 3/4") difference between my waist and my widest part. With your videos, I've traced the first version and am now very eager to try it!
Hi Sophie, let me know how you go!. Someone in these RUclips comments asked why I cut and spread from crotch to hip, rather than straight across the hip. I created this page to answer that question, and I am including it here in case it's of interest: (Click on each image to enlarge). www.dresspatternmaking.com/crotch-extension-cut-spread
@@Dresspatternmaking thanks, that totally makes sense! Well I should have watched video 3 before drafting my pants, I need to get back to my first draft to adjust it. But maybe not today ;-)
Thanks to you I was able to draft the best foundation I have ever made. It still needs some tweaks but they are mostly just errors on my part. Then maybe I'll do some fine tuning of the angle of the back rise. But the best part is that thanks to you I was willing to throw out assumptions, even yours, about thigh shape and size and draft for my athletic thighs. Now the legs are no longer pulling on the foundation but they are still slack-shaped, not trousers. That has been a goal of mine for years.
Hi Christine. Very glad you ended up with a block that fits. It is hard to get give instructions that give shaping for all figures; yes, I know that the leg shaping I give is pretty standard.
I just made my block. I sewed up a sample using scrap and the fit was great. I made a small adjustment to the back center seam and I'm ready to go to fabric. I have so much trouble buying pants because the crotch depth is too small, the waist is too big in relation to the hip... And I usually have to make a lot of alterations to patterns so this will be a big time saver. I'm self-taught for sewing so I really appreciate the detail you go into.
Hello Sarah, I'm pleased you got a result. I can't tell you how happy I am every day when I put on something that fits well, is comfortable and looks good, after a lifetime of struggling to find clothes that fit. Although it's time consuming in the beginning, like anything you learn over time it becomes easier to draft your own patterns.
What a great step-by-step video on this topic. The best so far, and I have search and watched many, I appreciate the work put in, the graphics really help. Thank you, Will watch part 3 next!
Hi AnnMarie. Thanks for the comment. I feel bad because I haven't had the time to create anything for a while, but am getting back to it now. However as my tutorials are quite time consuming (the images!), it will probably be a month or so until I can post the another video.
Thank-you Maria for the detailed series in a much needed area of drafting. I'm sure most of us struggle with drafting the perfect-fit pant. It's fantasic that people like you put in so much time and effort to help the wider community. Three questions. When you slash and spread the pattern to increase the back crutch length you do it from the crutch (at the side seam) to the low hip (at centre back), the pattern drafting books I have do it from low hip to low hip. What are the differences and benefits from your method? When you add ease to the waist, hip and knee you add ease to the measurement then divide it (by 4 or 2 depending on where it is) but for the thigh you devide the measurement first then add the ease. Why is this? What are your suggestions for a prominent front thigh and weak (less muscle in preportion to front) back thigh?
Hello Lou... To answer your questions, but not in order. (2) Because for the thigh the 'ease' is really to create the extension. The back extension needs to be a lot more than the front extension. (3) Not sure I can help easily for your third question, at least not at the moment. (3) I found that the way I do it gets the best result. I tested the cut & spread method a lot, and cutting it at the hip means I lose a fraction of the hip measurement when joining/smoothing. I am including a link. Go and have a look at the images in order (you may have to double click to open them full size to read the text), and see if you understand. Note that I would not usually (I do not have the time) to create all these images for one query for one person, but I will be writing an article on this at some point.... This page is currently not attached to a menu, you can only get to it from this link. www.dresspatternmaking.com/crotch-extension-cut-spread
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for the link with the explanation, of course I wouldn’t expect such a detailed explanation for one person, however (as you are already aware) I'm sure other people will be eager to see this too. Your contribution to pattern drafting is really valuable. With your knowledge it's a shame you don't offer private or group online classes or q&a sessions. I would happily pay for that. Thanks Maria
You are very clear. I have been trying to understand but always ended up disappointed. Thanks. Would like to know from C to D is the mid point of the measurement?
hello, I have a little question but first, this is a really great tutorial! I’m currently drafting the front part, and it’s very easy to understand and follow. I don’t feel overwhelmed at all, like I do with some other videos. Thank you so much! My question is, when you say measure the knee circumference bent: do you mean only like sitting on a chair, or bent as much as it can go?
actually, I just checked my “sitting-bent” circumference and my “fully bent” circumference. The difference is 1.5 inches, while you said that the total ease will be 2 inches. Therefore I think it will be safe for me to use the sitting circumference. Anyway thanks again for making such a great series
It's really nice to see someone actually relating to different body types. especially since i'm petite. but with extreme curves, and a difference of 13 1/2 inches between my waist and my widest point. it so hard to fit pan's properly. I Just wish the tutorial was in centimetres because The conversions are breaking my head
Hi Rakefet Sorry for the late reply. Since these videos I have started doing a Metric and Imperial Version of instructions, but I haven't got around to going back to the Pants Video and remaking it in Metric. Hopefully I'll get there at some point.
You lost me on the pants back, so I made my own pattern. I saw a simplified version of pants pattern making on a sewing program. I think I will look at that one again.
Hello Sandy. I'm pretty sure that I said somewhere in the beginning of the video that if you have a Standard Figure, then you can use the standard instructions, which are simpler/easier. I devised my system particularly for those people with Non-Standard figure who can't get a good fit with those instructions. If you do have a Standard Figure and you find my instructions complicated, you'd be far better off with those standard instructions. If you have a Non-Standard Figure and you use those instructions, you'll have to put more effort into making the necessary adjustments after making the block, and that's if you know what adjustments to make and how to make them. In my opinion it's easier to put in the extra effort in drafting the block rather than the extra effort in trying to understanding to understand why the toile (made with standard instructions) isn't fitting, and how you go about making it fit. That is what works and works for a lot of other people, but some may prefer it the other way. Good luck.
You have a very calming and soothing delivery! I’ve just completed my pattern and made the calico toile, but there’s something very odd happening at the back. The ease in the back leg wants to fold in a long pleat running from the crotch to the back of my knee. I’m quite slight - do you think I may have too much ease - or is it a problem with the dreaded crotch point?
Thank you so much, explaining the different shapes of our bodies helped a lot. I have a problem with a sway back, and the inner thighs touching from the crotch to the knee. Should I slash the pattern across the knee level and move the bottom part of the pattern more in, or how should I deal with that problem? Otherwise I am more shaped like you, small waist and larger downward backside. I tried so many things, nothing gets the excess fabric smooth. The front looks great, but on the back there are diagonal lines going from the inseam at the knee towards the side seam, to half between the knee and crotch. I wish I could send you a photo. Someone said I should only wear skirts or dresses, but I don't like them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 😀
Hello Sigrid Sorry for the delay in answering, I've been unwell for a while. If you have more flesh on the inside of the leg, then that fix you mentioned should work - you need more fabric on the inside. You can go to my website and upload a photo in a comment. You will have to create an account in order to upload a photo though (guests can enter text but not upload images). If you could also upload a photo of your pants block also, looking straight at it (not at an angle), that would help.
@@Dresspatternmaking thank you so much, I will try if it works. I had to slow down the video in order to understand all you showed us. After watching it twice, I finely understand all the details. It is remarkable how much work you put in this, thanks again😀
Hi, I'm late to the party, but have been following your pants block to create pants that actually fit me (so excited). I'm also a beginner. I've just cut out my newly created block and was going to sew it together and was wondering what seam allowance I should use? Is it 5/8"?
This is a fantastic video! Thank you so much for taking so much time and effort to make it 🤩 can I ask what should you do when the French curve doesn’t match your hip/high hip & waist measurements? (38.5/33/28 for reference)
Dear Maria, thank you a million times for all your tutorials and content. I almost cried when I saw there is a Anne type - this is exactly me and I've had such a hard time getting pants to fit me. So I'm looking forward to draft my own block! I just have one more question: as my high hip and waist and lower hip circumferences all are larger in the front arc then the back arc ( I really do have a lot of stomach and very small bottom), would it be advisable to use these split measurements when drafting the front and the back (so not simply dividing the whole high hip measurement in quarts but using half of the front/back arc high hip to draft it)? Or is there a reason why this should not be done? Thank you again Lene
Hello Lene Sorry for the very late reply, but I've been out of action for a while due to ill-health. Maybe you've already drafted the block and answered your own questions, but I'll answer just in case... Now this is a very good question. When I first started working on my drafting system I did think that the arcs would work better, but then decided not to use them. I think mainly it made it too difficult to make my system work consistently since the front is used to draft the back, etc. All pant systems I've seen do just divide the hip by two. I seem to remember coming to the conclusion that this was actually better, but can't remember the details. If you haven't already done so, I would try just using my system as is. If the side seam doesn't run down the center where you expect it (from the waist to the crotch), then adjust the side seam at that point (add to the front and take the corresponding amount from the back).
Simply great explanation! I have a question though, while drafting back block, the tracing line for my side seam did not pass through D2. Instead it passes through a point which is 1/2” inside from D approx. Is this okay?
The result of this issue is the side seams of front and back do not match by 1/8” of an inch. If I try to pass it through point D2, then the tracing line meets the knee line outside of F.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Thanks for your effort. I will buy some coffee for you I wish you could gave us in centimeters not in inches. 3/8 inches just drives me crazy😭
Hello Black Swan09, I completely understand.... (I hate inches! But I figured there would be more Americans looking for my content than Australians..). ... I have recently made two versions of the Bodice Block instructions -Imperial & Metric versions. In future I will either to do separate versions (Imperial & Metric) for my videos, or include information on screen that gives the equivalent in centimeters. I have created written instructions for the Drafting the Pants Block in both Metric and Imperial measurements. I am in the process of getting them uploaded onto Amazon and Google Play. They will be available in a few days.
This was very helpful for me! When it comes to drafting fitted pants, like leggings made from stretch fabric - could I use this same block? I already calculated my measurements to include negative ease, so I'm wondering if I could just take all of those same numbers, not add any of your extra measurements for ease, and it still work well? Thanks!
Hi Miranda. For stretch pants, you usually reduce the inseam as well as the outseam; in essence this means that the crotch length (thigh ease) is reduced as well as the ease on the outside for the hip. I would suggest drafting it first to the body measurement (ease taken out), for a Stable Knit (18-25% stretch), making sure you also take out the ease that is added to the crotch for the woven block. You only need to create the one block, the outer edge of which is for Table Knits. Then mark the further reductions for ease on that block. Moderate Knits with 25-50% stretch: Reduction of 2% (or 98% of) your Body Measurement. (Negative Ease) Stretch Knits with 50-75% stretch: Reduction of 3% (or 97% of) your Body Measurement (Negative Ease) Super Stretchy Knits 75-100%) : Reduction of 5% (or 95% of) your Body Measurement (Negative Ease) Take these amounts out of the waist, hip, out-seam and inseam. (To a total of that reduction %. So if it's 2%, then 1% down the side, and 1% on the inside). So basically the whole shape shrinks down a bit on all sides. Does that make sense? I have three articles on my website about stretch - and the second one gives examples of how that works on the Bodice Block (using one block and marking all stretch reductions on it), but I haven't got an example for the Pants Block.
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes that does make sense I was wondering what to do about those vertical measurements! When it comes to the crotch point D, how we extend it just a bit for ease purposes but it also gives us a deeper crotch curve, and then drop it down to create D1 - would we use this same rubric for stretch also? (That is, given that we've already calculated for negative ease in the total measurements) Or do we also apply the reduction % to these numbers? Something else entirely? I'm still wrapping my head around the concept of the crotch curve lol
Thank you for your video. I have a very similar shape to you (12 inches differential). I was wondering how you determine where the straight line on the centre back stops with this shape (point j). Line p-j where it looks like yours is slightly offset say .5 from j. If I come in 1.5 inches from L should I also come in 0.5 inches at j and offset the other side to accommodate, or just go straight through point j? Is there a rule of thumb or is it a case of trial and error?
HI thank you for this, it was great till I started on the back - my measurements are definitely wider at the crotch level and top of thighs. Do I just follow the same steps as the standard shape with my measurements?
Things were going so well and now I'm STUCK! I've stepped away, and come back, I've started all over .. still stuck. On the BACK pants block, my points Q and R are on the left side of the vertical I, J, K and L .... so am at the point in the video where I'm supposed to connect from point R down, pass through point S and land just to the left of point J -- but, my connecting would have to go inwards from point R if it is to pass through point S to land just to the left of point J! It's all because of where my Q and R are sitting, which again are to the left of the vertical I, J, K and L. I've measured soooo many times and can't figure out what I've done wrong. My waist is 28.5, my low hip is 38" but the widest part sits at crotch level so I make that 2 and 3/4" above crotch level. I'm all jumbled with numbers right now and now I'm confused again. All I know is I can not seem to figure out why Q and R are sitting to the left of the vertical line of I, J, K and L. Please help. I feel so close to being done! ughhh.
Hi there I’m sorry you are having problems and I understand the frustration, but I can only answer simple questions that take me 5 minutes or so, I cannot provide one-on-one assistance. In order to give you any meaningful help I would actually have to draft the pants using your measurements to see where you are going wrong (IF you are going wrong - this is the video for the Standard Figure..). I just don’t have time for that. When I started with my website I gave away hundreds of hours of my time helping people for free. Quite often I gave that time out of feeling guilt or responsibility. 90% of the time the person had made a mistake in calculations or in drafting. In the end I had to set some boundaries, and those boundaries include that I don’t give people free one-on-one help any more. I also don’t provide paid help as that path is fraught with lots of problems also (I am unsure if the person has taken their measurements correctly, I will have to charge for my time regardless of the result, etc. etc). My videos have helped many people, but they won’t help every single person. I’m sorry this one hasn’t helped you.
I'm very fond of the series, unfortunately it gets sort of hard to follow when you refer back to an earlier point (i.e. leg shaping at 17:23) you don't give any reference points to *where* that earlier point is, which makes it a bit hard to follow if one doesn't want to go through the video multiple times. Sometimes I would like to know "can I just skip to the relevant part of this, or do I have to watch it or I will miss things and then have no idea where to look for them?" With that said, thank you for helping out with your knowledge - it is still very much appreciated!
I understand the issue, but my problem is that what I create is so time consuming that to go to the extra detail means even more work (either in repeating the steps or looking back to see the timestamp and include that somehow, after the video has been created). In the end either I have to do the work or the person watching has to do the work.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. Could you please explain why you've only added 3/8 inch at the crotch level but added 1inch at the lower hip level. Why the difference ? Sorry if you've explained in the video already but I can understand why ? Thanks in advance.
The instructions are for drafting slacks. Slacks have about 3.5 inches ease in the thigh. 3/8" to the front and 3 1/8 inch to the back. Given the nature of the pants, i.e. a bifurcated garment that goes between the legs, and the shape of the body (generally a flatter stomach and a larger bottom), it is necessary to add the ease unevenly - more ease to the back, less ease to the front. Basically the ease ends up as the extension that comes between the legs. The place that the front and back meet is actually close to the front of the leg than out towards the back of the leg. Therefore less ease is needed for the front leg, more needed on the back leg). Also, the hip ease has nothing to do with the thigh ease. Trousers have 4-5 inches ease in the thigh, Jeans have about 2-3 inches ease in the thigh. Usually 2 inches ease is the minimum in the hip in pants and skirts, (I am talking about woven fabric here), but the minimum waist ease is usually 1 inch. That is, different parts of the body need different amounts of ease.
Hi, when measuring the crotch length, do you start measuring from the bellybutton or above or below and does this length include the belt? Very informative tutorial. Thank you.
Hi Helen. The crotch length is from the waist, which is usually above the belly button. If you tie a piece of elastic or something around your waist, it should naturally gravitate to the smallest area around the midriff - i.e. the waist. Measure from and to this elastic (from front to back, or from back to front). Now the belt is another issue and depends on the pattern you are drafting; the basic block doesn't have a belt.
Hi Carly, no blocks do not include seam allowance. It is a personal preference - what easier for you, what you are used to or what you prefer. Commercial sewing patterns generally use 1.5cm or 5/8 inch, except for the hem (2cm? 2.5cm?_ . I use 1cm all around except for the hem.
Hello, thank u very much for the videos. Min 18.30 abot the calculation of the back crotch line did u mean upper thigh equal 4 or 2 as written? (+ 3. 1/8)
Hi there, at 18:36 where it says Upper Thigh divided by 2 + 3 1/8 inch..... yes, it is divided by 2, not by 4. This is the thigh measurement, around the top of the leg.
Question: Why is the cut line at 27:00 diagonal? In other instructions I’ve read it has to be perpendicular to the grain line (e. g. hipline or above) , but they didn’t explain why? Thank you in advance and for these amazing tutorials!
Hello Julia I really have no idea why they say that. What I always do it test it by cutting and spreading the various ways, then comparing the final outcome. It really makes no difference to the integrity of the pattern. What is does make a difference in.... is that it's easier to draw/blend the crotch curve when cut on the diagonal. I did used to have a page where I showed examples of this and I sent people links to that page on my website. I seemed to have lost that page recently when I moved my website over to a new CMS. I will try at some point to make some FAQ very short videos to answer questions like these or redo that page on my website. It will just be added to my list of things to do.
Hi Maria, I'm really confused about the ease amounts. You said that this block has 1" ease in the waist, 2" ease in the hip which is distributed unevenly (1/3 of 2" in front and 2/3 of 2" in back), and 2.5" in thigh. My waist and thighs ended up with a tiny bit more than the ease you said to add (I'm hoping this is okay - not sure why it happened). But the low hip has way too little ease. I don't understand why in the instructions you calculate (low hip + 1" ease) / 4. Why add 1" ease and not 2" since that's the amount you said is needed for the hip. Also it's not distributed unevenly like it was suppose to be. Could you explain the reason behind the ease please? Also, when I go to make the back pattern and flip the front pattern to draw in the outer side seam, you said to match up kneelines and rotate so the front touches point D2 and point M. But when I do that I can't get point M on the front block to touch the low hip on the back. Mine is way below the low hip line. Do I trace past point M to the low hip line on the back or just to point M? Thank you, love your work!
I know you wrote this ages ago, but I'm going back and answering all the comments I didn't get to on the off chance you still want an answer. Firstly, if you could reference things that would be really helpful. I spent an age going a search on 'ease' in all my transcripts, and can't find where I said that we are adding 2 inches ease to the low hip, and the only reference I can find to adding ease unevenly TO THE HIP was in video 3, where I said you COULD add it unevenly if you wish. (Ease is added unevenly to the thigh, the knee etc..) 2 inches ease sounds right for Trousers, so if I did say it I may have just been thinking of trousers when I said it. 1.5 inches ease in the hip is ideal for slacks. Although we are adding only 1 inch total in the instructions, the Standard Figure ends up with an additional half inch when the back crotch curve is drawn. (Look at 23:13 in the video. From M to J is the hip with ease. So there is 1 inch ease across the block. But there is also an additional amount to the left of J, so from J to the curve. There is 1/4 inch there, making 1/2 inch (as there are 2 back legs). So there is 1.5 inches ease in total. If you are curvy, you might be having the same problem I had - see 23:37 of Part 3. IN this case, what/where I was measuring was not ending up at the right place on the block. In this case I should have been using a bigger measurement. It's not so much that I needed more ease, but that I needed to be using a larger measurement because the 3-D measurement on my body was ending up different on the 2D Block. (A limitation of translating the 3D body to a 2D plane). Also... ease is a very personal thing. What is sufficient for one person is not sufficient for another. What someone finds loose, some other person finds tight. If it's not enough for you, add more.... Regarding using the Front Block to draw the side seam of the Back Block. The essential thing is that the side seam lengths are the same, and all the better if we can get the same the same (which won't stay the same if we need to cut and spread the back to get more crotch length). So if the low hip line of the front block ends up short of point M, continue tracing the front block until you get to point M. Then, without lifting the front block off, rotate/swivel is until the low hip line on the front block is horizontal (it won't be exactly on top of the low hip line of the back block, but it does need to be parallel). Then continue tracing the front block from point M up to the waist. When you have finished tracing off the front and lift it up, you'll find the waistline of the back block will end up a little short of the original 'waistline'. That original 'waistline' was a starting point and a guideline, it doesn't matter if the back waistline ends up a bit before that line. Hope that helps.
Hi! I’ve recently bought your pattern making ebook in metric system, and when doing the front pant , either following the standard figure or the Maria figure my measurement for for the high hip is always off 😢 when I do point q and point r no matter how I do the math the points do not connect with a line to point m there’s a gap of around 2 cm if I want to connect point q to m without passing trough point r, help please 😢
I'm having trouble understanding the Front Knee measurement for C to Centre, and D to Centre. I have a 22" knee girth. So is the amount for each side of the knee #1) (22/2) = 11, so (11 + 5/8") / 2 = 5.81"?. Or is it #2) (22/2) = 11, so (11/2) = 5.5" + 5/8" = 6 1/8"? I'm having the same problem with C + D for Crotch Girth widths. Thank you.2
First divide by 2, then add the ease. E to F is where the knee measurements are plotted. If your knee is 22 inches (bent), then divide it by 2 = 11 inches Then add the ease (5/8 inch for the Front), which totals 11& 5/8 (11.63 inches) Place this measurement at the knee line, half either side of the A to B vertical line. Same applies to the Upper Thigh (C to D). Divide the body measurement by 2, then add the ease.
@@Dresspatternmaking Hi Maria, I just wanted to let you know that I enjoy reading everyone's questions and your responses. This morning I was wondering the same question that @Kabodnm asked 2 years ago. "Is this pattern block compatible for men as well?" Your answer "No" stopped my wandering mind. However, I am watching intently on the shaping down for a prominent upper thigh. My poor kid always had his pants split in this area. I hope you are going to have a wonderful weekend. Pray for peace. Always grateful!
Are you drafting this on one large piece of paper for the back and front block? Or is this only for the front and you will draft the back block separately?
Hello, wow!! There's a lot to take in. But working through it. I have however come up against a stumble. My high hip is my largest size so I have taken 2 3/4 off my crotch length to get my low hip. My issue is calculating point C to point i - which part do I use??
In order to make it comparable to mine, I drafted it for the same hip measurement as mine - 108cm / 42.5 inches. The Standard Figure's waist is 10 inches (or 9.5 inches sometimes) less than the hip.
How do I buy this ebook- Drafting Custom Pants Blocks That Fit (Imperial Version): Step-by-Step With Graphics. Cant find a buy button on google books Thanks Sue
Hi , Great Tutorial, Can we divide the waistline measurement equally at center line of bottom and knee and the make the crotch extension from hip measurement , and then draft side seam shape and front rise shape ? Its means waist / knee/ bottom measurement are equally divided over center of line .. Thanks for your answer .
Hi Sanjay, sorry I am not sure I understand the question fully. Regarding the question "(can we).... make the crotch extension from the hip measurement.." My system specifically does NOT make the crotch extension from the hip measurement because that is assuming that the thigh is a certain proportion of the hip, and the reason I devised instructions without using the crotch extension method, (using the thigh measurement instead), is to cater also for non-standard figures whose thigh measurement may have a different hip/thigh proportion. Again, I'm finding it hard to understand the whole question, but do you mean drawing the grainline down from the centre of the waist, and thereby moving the whole legline over to the left?
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for your quick reply. let me explain again. what i mean to say if we draw center line in pattern , waist / hip / knee & bottom measurements would be equally divided, but the thigh/crotch measurements would be offset on one side.In your case you are taking crotch/ knee and bottom measurements are equally divided and waist is offset, I can send a sketch if i know your mail ID. Thanks
@@sanjay_media For certain types of figures - such as bow legs or knock knees - you move the legline below the thigh over towards the outseam more, or towards the inseam more. Usually the recommended amount is about 2cm (0.75 inch), and usually done below the thigh. So you'd move the base and the knee over that much and blend to the thigh. You would then redraw the grainline from the new mid-base, through the new mid-knee, through the mid-thigh up to the waist. (I guess what I'm saying is, it's not to do with the waist measurement, it's more about moving the legline below the thigh over a little. Most block making instructions do have, as the starting point, the mid-line through the mid-thigh, or a tiny bit more inwards - e.g. + quarter inch).
So I have a big tummy area so my front crotch length is longer than my crotch depth. Do I raise my point p to make it work? Or move D1 to the right more? Or both?
Does anyone have advice, for the triangle body shape, on how to know how far in to move point P from L, or how to actually calculate changes in the ease at the high hip? I understand the suggestions, but feel like I would be blindly guessing. Is there a step-by-step section for this body shape that I'm simply missing?
Hello Magpie, I say this at the very beginning of my videos: “If you want to understand the shape of pants and how to get a better fit, I recommend that you watch the instructions for all four figures, not just the one that might be more like yours. I’m not covering every single figure type and permutation but if you watch all the examples, you should get a basic understanding of how the pant fits and how to draft your pant to fit you.” My aim was always to get people to understand what they are doing so they can solve the problems that arise. The three non-standard figures I used was to try to encompass MOST of the issues that arise, but that is NOT to say that they would cover EVERY issue, and there would be many people who have figures that do not fit exactly into the ones I’ve given (as above “not covering every single figure type and permutation”). Which is why I try to get people to understand the problem and use problem solving techniques. I really would like for you to understand why I can’t give a set amount (for example: ¾ inch) from L to P for the ‘Triangle Figure’, so I will explain it below. Giving a set amount works for the Standard Figure because all Standard Figures have 10 inches difference between the waist and hip. A half-inch works well for everyone who has 10 inches difference, regardless if they are size 6, size 10 or size 22. Someone with a ‘Triangle Figure’ (bigger waist/hip difference) could have 11 inches, or 13 inches, or 12 inches, or 15 inches, or 20 inches difference between the waist and hips. Do you understand that if I say “come in ¾ of an inch”, that that will not work out for BOTH someone with 11 inches difference between the waist/hip and someone with 20 inches difference? Having said all that, I thought that I did give examples somewhere in those videos for waist shaping for different figure types, but off the top of my head I wouldn't know where exactly it is. Really the only direct help I can give you is this: Start with the amount given for the Standard Figure (L to P), then split the remainder of your waist/hip difference between your dart and side seam. If you end up with a very curved side seam then increase your dart width and/or create a second dart.
Excuse me, I have a question, if you can help me If we reduce the width of the crotch in the front of the pants, is it effective in the beauty of the pants? In some methods (for one size), the front crotch width is, for example, 6, but in others it is 5 or 4 which one is better ?? And give us better pants? I'm sorry if I wrote bad English
The 'crotch length' is just a way of adding to the hip measurement to get the thigh measurement. It will therefore need to be different lengths for different women, depending on their thigh measurement. The crotch length is also different for trousers, slacks and jeans. So the crotch length will depend on (1) the type of pants you are drafting (slacks, jeans, trousers), and (2) your thigh measurement. This is all explained in detail in Part 1 of my Pants Video.
I'm not understanding what you mean when you say that when you draft using your measurements for the standard figure, you end up with 1/2 inch excess ease in the high hip. If Point R is high hip plus ease, and you say to pass that line goes point R, how can there be excess ease? I'm trying to understand how to figure out if there's excess ease for me (I have a 30 cm difference in my waist and high hip and a 40 CM difference in waist and low hip). I just don't get it! What am I missing? Is it that you weren't able to pass the line through point R with a smooth curve?
This is just the basic pants block. You could use the pants block to draft a pair of jeans, but you could also first draft a jeans block from the pants block.... Generally though there is a bit of work involved in drafting a pair of jeans from the pants block.
Your tutorials are the best🥹🥹 Please make a tutorial for jeans as well that would be really great as I have tried a lots of videos from RUclips but none of them were like yours, so please make a tutorial for jeans as well🥹🙏
May I ask at time 2:00: Why do we measure side waist to side ankle size to mark A and B point at the right of the picture which is the front Grain Line? Thank you!
Hi Claire. The side seam measurement is the same for the Front and the Back. There can be quite a bit of difference between the CF and CB measurements. Therefore we start with the measurement that is the same for both front and back. When you say it's the grain-line measurement - in fact it is not. If you go to 19:20 you will see that the front grain-line is not from A to B, it stops a bit before A, and for the back it extends up above A. The side seam however, is pretty much the measurement we started with (A to B), or it may be just a touch longer given the curve down the side seam. This little bit extra probably makes no difference, or if it does, when you make the toile and you think the length of the pant is a bit too long, you would make an adjustment.
Hi :) loved following along on your drafting course - however I have a couple of questions regarding plus size. Is there anywhere I can write you? Would love your input if you have the time :)
Hello Katrine. When I tested my system I did test on a number of women with very different body types and sizes. I tested on a someone with a waist of 41.75inches (108cm) and hip 46.5 inches (118cm) - she was only just over 5 feet tall . I drafted the block and made her the toile and it fit well. I have read some information on drafting for very larger sizes that says that you need a bit more ease and a lower crotch depth. If you have questions you are either (a) visit my website and leave a comment on one of the pages that relate the Pants, or (b) write them here. I would prefer that you ask the questions in the comments section rather than a private email. If I can help at all, I would prefer that other people who might have the same questions can access that information as well. You an also contact me via the Contact form on my website if you wish. There is a link to my website in the header.
The pants you taught me to make fit the same way RTW pants do; ugly, uncomfortable, and hanging and twisting in all sorts of strange ways on my legs. I cannot center the thigh on the A to B line. Also, the AB line runs up my hip to waist exactly 3 inches from center front and even closer in the back. I don't think anyone should be advised to just center the thigh measurement on the creaseline or to shift your circumference measurements about above the crotch like you're playing Tetris. If the intersection of your circumference measurements with the AB line is not true to your body, it will create problems with both the crotch and thigh area and the pants will not hang plumb so the inseam and outseam will never be the right length and you'll end up with tight fabric in one area and loose fabric in the opposite area because you have the right circumference measurement but you put the fabric in the wrong place.
On my block the centre/grainline (the A to B line) is 3 inches from the CF, and 0 inches (yes, zero) from the CB (my grainline ends up at the CB waistpoint). For reference: my hip is 108cm (42.5 inches), my thigh is 62cm (24.4 inches). I have just then looked at 2 different standard patternmaking systems (by respected authorities in the field) and this is what I found: Aldrich Pants Block: drafting a block with a 93cm hip (36.5 inches) and using the standard extension method which assumes the thigh measurement, from the centre/grainline to the CF line is 3 inches. From the centre/grainline, it is 2.3 inches. Joseph-Armstrong Trouser Block: The grainline is approx. mid-upper-thigh (the thigh at the crotch level). The distance from this centre/grainline to the CF and CB is similar to what I’ve given above to Aldrich. My point here is: You have a fitting problem, but what you seem to think is the reason for the problem may not be the reason you have having the problem. (Given that I don’t know your measurements, whether or not a measurement of 3 inches from the CF to the center line is right or wrong is not something that I know one way or another, but it does not sound unreasonable). The main difference between my system and other systems (such as Armstrong, Aldrich and most others out there) is that I include the thigh measurement and show people how to get the extra crotch length needed. A lot of people have got good results using my system, after having tried other systems without success. However, I do understand that not everyone may end up with a perfect result. But given your seeming expertise in this matter, it surprises me that you need any help at all. This is where I tell you that I have taken exception to your snarkiness. Perhaps once you have figured out your problem, you can create a system to help others draft their blocks, and put it up on RUclips to help others. Given how much you seem to know this should be no problem for you at all. Of course you will no doubt spend hundreds of hours doing this work, and provide the instructions to everyone for free. And of course it will work perfectly for everyone first time. So instead of asking a question you just attack and tell me everything I don't know, tell me what I'm teaching is all wrong and how you know better (i.e. snarkiness and rudeness) . I've spent half an hour of my time to give you the information above to show you that at least in part you have no idea what you are talking about, but I have no intention of engaging with you again and giving you any more of my time. Please do not leave any more comments on my channel. (Of course I could just block you but that would remove your comment and my reply which I would really like to leave up. But if you do comment again I will block you).
I don’t see my comment so writing it again I’m having trouble so early in the video oh no ok so my measurement at crotch level is 12 7/8 after dividing by 2 and adding the 3/8. so where do I place that measurement and where does C and D from the measurements I’m dying to finally make this work after so many attempts at other tutorials but I’m afraid I’m already lost 😞
If your thigh measurement is 12 7/8, then dividing by 2 will get you 6 and 7/16. Add 3/8 inch to the 6 7/16 gives a total of 6 and 13/16. Half of that amount goes to the left of the A~B line and you mark point C. The other half goes to the right of the A~B line and you mark point D.
@3:15 can someone please help? how do I know how far out is C and D if my measurements going on the center line of A and B I watched like ten times and still can’t figure it out lol I guess that’s why I didn’t do so well in math 😠
You center the measurement on the A line. That means half of the measurement goes to the left of the A~B and the other half of the meausurement goes to the right of the A~B line. (Basically divide the measurement by 2, then measure out for that amount to the left and mark point C, then measure out for that amount to the right and mark point D).
Hello P. Deep necklines require contouring and I have some contouring information on my website. Contouring is different for every person and you would need to work yours out yourself. You would use your custom block and draw the necklines you want, then make any necessary adjustments according to your contouring needs.
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes, I tried it after reading it on your website, I made a block with the help of the information but the shoulder straps are sliping a little bit and I am not able to join sleeves to it because when sleeves are attatched it is going off the shoulders.... any suggestions......plz ...
@@P-b6r Hello P. If the straps are falling off, the most likely issue is that you haven't worked out your contouring gape darts correctly (i.e. worked out your gape darts for a lowered neckline), or you haven't pivoted that gape dart into one of the other darts. For example, if I draft a V-neckline that is 11cm down from the Centre Front, I have to move a 1.25 cm gape dart from the neckline to one of the other darts. Standard Contouring is only about 0.5cm. Also, as I think I've mentioned before, you cannot have a really deep back neckline and a really deep front neckline and expect the garment to stay on your shoulders. If you have a deep front, you will need a fairly high back, and visa versa. There are also other issues that may be at play, e.g. if you have a rounded upper back with forward sloping shoulders, and you have not made your back armhole big enough... I think the first thing to do is to check and vertify your contouring gape darts. You say you have made the block with the help of the information on my website, but have you read all the page on contouring? Especially the last page in the list below; In Action Example: www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/the-need-for-contouring-example www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/contour-markings-gape-darts www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/sleeveless-block www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/standard-contouring www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/individual-contouring www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/strapless www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/in-action-example
Yes, sadly. My measurements: Waist 36 1/2, High hip 37, Low hip 38. I can not connect points M, Q and R with french curve. Line from P to Q seems too long. Line from K to R too short. I feel myself so downed.
@@Dresspatternmaking I tryed system Muller&Sohn. Same problem - line on the waist seems much longer than the line on Hiegh hip. For me connecting points on Low hip-Hiegh hip-Waist lines with smooth curve is impossible.
@@Dresspatternmaking I asked my wife for help. She are smarter than me. She is a Bachelor of Russian Language and Literature, for God sake! No, we two cant figure out how to draw this line.
Here is a link to Pants Part 3:
ruclips.net/video/O0yXXvLtYHE/видео.html
This is fantastic, thank you so much. I really appreciate the different figure types being shown. As a non standard figure I've been dreading drafting a pants sloper from my standard drafting textbook. Now I can't wait to get started.
Seriously a lifesaver you made these videos! I have a 14 inch difference between my waist and hip, for years I only wore skirts because pants were borderline impossible to find haha
I’ve been on a quest to make a great fitting pair of slacks, and had made 10 mock-ups in the last month using a block I’d made from a fashion pattern making book. I was so vexed! I have a small waist and a large, low-set hip and each change I made to my pattern seemed to spawn new issues.
Using your non-standard block instructions, I have a block I’m happy with after two mock-ups, and each required only small tweaks. Thank you so much for uploading these videos, they’ve saved me from throwing my sewing machine out the window in frustration. I appreciate your time and expertise
Sorry for the tardy response. I am so glad that you got a good result.
This series is the best I have found in 50 yrs of sewing and even paying for a tailoring course. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and technical knowledge.
Great series! So refreshing to have someone address the different body shapes. Finally someone who teaches for real people. Can’t wait for episode 3.
Thank you.
Hi Maria, After watching all the RUclips adjustment lessons that need to be done for a purchased Pant Pattern, I said no way.
I can't do that. I don't want to do that over and over again. Truly Maria, your lessons are the most valuable lessons in Logic I have learned
since earning a professional license years ago. I retired and haven't been able to use those skills since the pandemic began.
LOL This was a wonderful exercise for my brain, in thinking for a Community of Women. This is an exercise
in Women's health! Balancing what we need for the front, and that so abused back crotch line.
As a woman I'm tired of being kicked in the Butt by first the fashion industry, and then by our Government in this
one shape fits all.
I've watched all 5 parts of your Series a few times now and have really studying hard. So many notes that I am having a hard
time organizing them. Since Covid I have had a hard time recalling measurements, calculating ease over and over again.
That process is too much.
Your draft method only assumes 1" of ease at all the Cardinal Points above the Crotch, which makes things so much easier
for those who lack some short-term Memory. Draft for a Slack and you can't go too far wrong.
I am trying to think like a drafter with one Rule for all the body types in relationship to the crotch width.
I'm tired of being a baggy butt for Designs planned for the Standard 10" difference between waist and hip while being
well over 5.5 feet tall. All my family is well over 5.5 feet tall.
I love your J-String measuring apparatus! If that J-String pulls down more than a hair when sitting, we have balancing to do!
Most of us sit far to long and spread. LOL
ie Front and back difference is 2.5". That clues me into the what
will be needed to draft the back bum to balance the waist, instead of coming up too short.
Today I had a mathematical J-Curve Revelation in knowing where we stand, before Scooping to make
Cheek Room.
In all cases use the widest hipline measurement including ease, as the width of the Foundation to begin with.
In all cases assume a side seam "invisible" dart/dart equivalent, to centre the waistline on the Foundation with dart/darts.
If the the high hip is largest, use that measurement including the high hip "ease" as the width of the Crotch Line,
Assume low hip height to be 2.75" above the crotch. Curve side seam between the waist and crotch height ignoring the smaller
dimension of the lower hip when blending.
ie high hip including ease 43 divided by 4 = 10.75". Actual thigh 20" divided by 2 = 10" Extension equals .75"? on front pant block.
Here I am going to extrapolate knowing that there is a 2.5" difference in length between the front and back J curves.
2.5" - .75" front extension = 1.75" additional length needed for the back Block.
Lower the back crotch depth 1.75". 2.5" difference - 1.75" = Add 0.75"
Raise the BACK waist height by 0.75" through the centre bum?
Getting in the right ballpark for the front and back J Curves will mean everything to me at the Waist. Your right, how can anyone deign
a lower waist pant where they are missing that customized seat!
Happy Sunday Maria. The last 4 hours was a hallelujah for me. Little adjustments will be so much easier. I can do this and not
add a baggy bum, or not so bad! Smile!
Really great tutorials. Very detailed and always to the point. Love all tutorials.
OOF !!! A lot of work went into this presentation...
Thank you so much for doing this... :)
I am still at the novice drafting stage and found this so complex...
Who would have thought pant-making could be so complicated.
I know I will need to these videos quite a few times to fully understand.
Thank you again for taking the time to do this... :)
I have been following along with paper and coloured pencils, over a period of 2 days and I still don't have it down pat...
I'm a slow learner (LOL)...
Just wondering how you got on. Did you finally manage to do this?
U went all out in this teaching am so happy with ur teaching my dear good job well done so appreciate this
I, as many viewers have stated as well, have been looking for a method to get a sloper that will fit my body. I am disappointed when I purchase pants. I have searched many drafting instructions and been disappointed. Your instructions are so spot-on.
Thank you!!!
Best of luck!
Love the way you explain and get along. This is the best I have come across.Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Thanks very much for this wonderful series. I can’t wait to try making my block.
I simply love your tutorials! Straight to the point, with clear and concise details. Thank you for your exceptionally thorough videos!
Thank you Diana.
Your presentation has certainly explained a lot of how's and why's. Very clear and to the point. Well done. Many thanks.
Hi Maria, thank you so much for this series of videos, I love it that you are the first to talk about non standard body shapes! I have been so frustrated with 'traditional' drafting methods, that I have stopped trying to draft my own pants (thankfully, I have found a RTW brand that works for me, with the help of forgiving stretch fabrics ;)
I have a body shape that is closer to yours, with a 40 cm (15 3/4") difference between my waist and my widest part. With your videos, I've traced the first version and am now very eager to try it!
Hi Sophie, let me know how you go!.
Someone in these RUclips comments asked why I cut and spread from crotch to hip, rather than straight across the hip. I created this page to answer that question, and I am including it here in case it's of interest: (Click on each image to enlarge).
www.dresspatternmaking.com/crotch-extension-cut-spread
@@Dresspatternmaking thanks, that totally makes sense! Well I should have watched video 3 before drafting my pants, I need to get back to my first draft to adjust it. But maybe not today ;-)
After all your mishaps with starting out in pattern cutting you are such a fantastic teacher and you make it so easy to understand thanks so much 🥳🥳
Thanks, Wendy.
Thanks to you I was able to draft the best foundation I have ever made. It still needs some tweaks but they are mostly just errors on my part. Then maybe I'll do some fine tuning of the angle of the back rise. But the best part is that thanks to you I was willing to throw out assumptions, even yours, about thigh shape and size and draft for my athletic thighs. Now the legs are no longer pulling on the foundation but they are still slack-shaped, not trousers. That has been a goal of mine for years.
Hi Christine. Very glad you ended up with a block that fits. It is hard to get give instructions that give shaping for all figures; yes, I know that the leg shaping I give is pretty standard.
Thanks so much for making these videos and tutorials! This is so helpful in understanding how to go from 3D to 2D shapes
I just made my block. I sewed up a sample using scrap and the fit was great. I made a small adjustment to the back center seam and I'm ready to go to fabric. I have so much trouble buying pants because the crotch depth is too small, the waist is too big in relation to the hip... And I usually have to make a lot of alterations to patterns so this will be a big time saver. I'm self-taught for sewing so I really appreciate the detail you go into.
Hello Sarah, I'm pleased you got a result. I can't tell you how happy I am every day when I put on something that fits well, is comfortable and looks good, after a lifetime of struggling to find clothes that fit. Although it's time consuming in the beginning, like anything you learn over time it becomes easier to draft your own patterns.
Thank you. What a great tutorial. So grateful you took the time to do this!
You are welcome.
What a great step-by-step video on this topic. The best so far, and I have search and watched many, I appreciate the work put in, the graphics really help. Thank you, Will watch part 3 next!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the awesome tutorials
Hi AnnMarie. Thanks for the comment. I feel bad because I haven't had the time to create anything for a while, but am getting back to it now. However as my tutorials are quite time consuming (the images!), it will probably be a month or so until I can post the another video.
Thank you so much! I hope to see more.
Hope to start doing more soon, but can't say exactly when!
I do have the same logical thinking when it comes to pattern draftting.. Its been 2 months since the last one.. Cant wait for part3
Hello Mohja. I haven't had a chance to do any work for either my website or this channel for a few months now, but hope to get back to it soon.
Thank-you Maria for the detailed series in a much needed area of drafting. I'm sure most of us struggle with drafting the perfect-fit pant. It's fantasic that people like you put in so much time and effort to help the wider community.
Three questions.
When you slash and spread the pattern to increase the back crutch length you do it from the crutch (at the side seam) to the low hip (at centre back), the pattern drafting books I have do it from low hip to low hip. What are the differences and benefits from your method?
When you add ease to the waist, hip and knee you add ease to the measurement then divide it (by 4 or 2 depending on where it is) but for the thigh you devide the measurement first then add the ease. Why is this?
What are your suggestions for a prominent front thigh and weak (less muscle in preportion to front) back thigh?
Hello Lou... To answer your questions, but not in order. (2) Because for the thigh the 'ease' is really to create the extension. The back extension needs to be a lot more than the front extension. (3) Not sure I can help easily for your third question, at least not at the moment. (3) I found that the way I do it gets the best result. I tested the cut & spread method a lot, and cutting it at the hip means I lose a fraction of the hip measurement when joining/smoothing. I am including a link. Go and have a look at the images in order (you may have to double click to open them full size to read the text), and see if you understand. Note that I would not usually (I do not have the time) to create all these images for one query for one person, but I will be writing an article on this at some point.... This page is currently not attached to a menu, you can only get to it from this link.
www.dresspatternmaking.com/crotch-extension-cut-spread
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for the link with the explanation, of course I wouldn’t expect such a detailed explanation for one person, however (as you are already aware) I'm sure other people will be eager to see this too. Your contribution to pattern drafting is really valuable. With your knowledge it's a shame you don't offer private or group online classes or q&a sessions. I would happily pay for that.
Thanks Maria
Excellent excellent explanation. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this invaluable lesson. 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes it is, thank you so much.
You are very clear. I have been trying to understand but always ended up disappointed. Thanks.
Would like to know from C to D is the mid point of the measurement?
I also have that question. I’m stuck in C and D
hello, I have a little question
but first, this is a really great tutorial! I’m currently drafting the front part, and it’s very easy to understand and follow. I don’t feel overwhelmed at all, like I do with some other videos. Thank you so much!
My question is, when you say measure the knee circumference bent: do you mean only like sitting on a chair, or bent as much as it can go?
actually, I just checked my “sitting-bent” circumference and my “fully bent” circumference. The difference is 1.5 inches, while you said that the total ease will be 2 inches. Therefore I think it will be safe for me to use the sitting circumference. Anyway thanks again for making such a great series
Thank you for these clear and easy to follow instructions Maria! How much do I add to waist measurement for two box pleats 1 1/2" each?
It's really nice to see someone actually relating to different body types. especially since i'm petite. but with extreme curves, and a difference of 13 1/2 inches between my waist and my widest point. it so hard to fit pan's properly. I Just wish the tutorial was in centimetres because The conversions are breaking my head
Hi Rakefet
Sorry for the late reply. Since these videos I have started doing a Metric and Imperial Version of instructions, but I haven't got around to going back to the Pants Video and remaking it in Metric. Hopefully I'll get there at some point.
Hello, Dresspatternmaking. surprisingly quite video. thank. :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
You lost me on the pants back, so I made my own pattern. I saw a simplified version of pants pattern making on a sewing program. I think I will look at that one again.
Hello Sandy. I'm pretty sure that I said somewhere in the beginning of the video that if you have a Standard Figure, then you can use the standard instructions, which are simpler/easier. I devised my system particularly for those people with Non-Standard figure who can't get a good fit with those instructions.
If you do have a Standard Figure and you find my instructions complicated, you'd be far better off with those standard instructions. If you have a Non-Standard Figure and you use those instructions, you'll have to put more effort into making the necessary adjustments after making the block, and that's if you know what adjustments to make and how to make them.
In my opinion it's easier to put in the extra effort in drafting the block rather than the extra effort in trying to understanding to understand why the toile (made with standard instructions) isn't fitting, and how you go about making it fit. That is what works and works for a lot of other people, but some may prefer it the other way.
Good luck.
You have a very calming and soothing delivery! I’ve just completed my pattern and made the calico toile, but there’s something very odd happening at the back. The ease in the back leg wants to fold in a long pleat running from the crotch to the back of my knee. I’m quite slight - do you think I may have too much ease - or is it a problem with the dreaded crotch point?
Thank you so much, explaining the different shapes of our bodies helped a lot. I have a problem with a sway back, and the inner thighs touching from the crotch to the knee. Should I slash the pattern across the knee level and move the bottom part of the pattern more in, or how should I deal with that problem? Otherwise I am more shaped like you, small waist and larger downward backside. I tried so many things, nothing gets the excess fabric smooth. The front looks great, but on the back there are diagonal lines going from the inseam at the knee towards the side seam, to half between the knee and crotch. I wish I could send you a photo. Someone said I should only wear skirts or dresses, but I don't like them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 😀
Hello Sigrid
Sorry for the delay in answering, I've been unwell for a while.
If you have more flesh on the inside of the leg, then that fix you mentioned should work - you need more fabric on the inside.
You can go to my website and upload a photo in a comment. You will have to create an account in order to upload a photo though (guests can enter text but not upload images). If you could also upload a photo of your pants block also, looking straight at it (not at an angle), that would help.
@@Dresspatternmaking thank you so much, I will try if it works. I had to slow down the video in order to understand all you showed us. After watching it twice, I finely understand all the details. It is remarkable how much work you put in this, thanks again😀
great.sewing again & again . help us.thks.
thank you so much for this video! i was looking for the the crotch length adjustment?
Hi, I'm late to the party, but have been following your pants block to create pants that actually fit me (so excited). I'm also a beginner. I've just cut out my newly created block and was going to sew it together and was wondering what seam allowance I should use? Is it 5/8"?
Hi B Crocker
Yes, 5/8 inch (1.5cm) is the standard. However, having said that, it really is a matter of preference. (I tend to use 1cm where I can).
This is a fantastic video! Thank you so much for taking so much time and effort to make it 🤩 can I ask what should you do when the French curve doesn’t match your hip/high hip & waist measurements? (38.5/33/28 for reference)
Hello Polly
That happens quite often; you draw the curve in two passes and blend them together.
@@Dresspatternmaking thank you! I will try this today!
Fantastic knowledge on crotch and tigh measurements relationship well explained here. Thanks so much
You are very welcome.
Dear Maria, thank you a million times for all your tutorials and content. I almost cried when I saw there is a Anne type - this is exactly me and I've had such a hard time getting pants to fit me. So I'm looking forward to draft my own block! I just have one more question: as my high hip and waist and lower hip circumferences all are larger in the front arc then the back arc ( I really do have a lot of stomach and very small bottom), would it be advisable to use these split measurements when drafting the front and the back (so not simply dividing the whole high hip measurement in quarts but using half of the front/back arc high hip to draft it)? Or is there a reason why this should not be done? Thank you again Lene
Hello Lene
Sorry for the very late reply, but I've been out of action for a while due to ill-health. Maybe you've already drafted the block and answered your own questions, but I'll answer just in case...
Now this is a very good question. When I first started working on my drafting system I did think that the arcs would work better, but then decided not to use them. I think mainly it made it too difficult to make my system work consistently since the front is used to draft the back, etc. All pant systems I've seen do just divide the hip by two. I seem to remember coming to the conclusion that this was actually better, but can't remember the details.
If you haven't already done so, I would try just using my system as is. If the side seam doesn't run down the center where you expect it (from the waist to the crotch), then adjust the side seam at that point (add to the front and take the corresponding amount from the back).
Simply great explanation! I have a question though, while drafting back block, the tracing line for my side seam did not pass through D2. Instead it passes through a point which is 1/2” inside from D approx.
Is this okay?
The result of this issue is the side seams of front and back do not match by 1/8” of an inch. If I try to pass it through point D2, then the tracing line meets the knee line outside of F.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Thanks for your effort. I will buy some coffee for you
I wish you could gave us in centimeters not in inches. 3/8 inches just drives me crazy😭
Hello Black Swan09,
I completely understand.... (I hate inches! But I figured there would be more Americans looking for my content than Australians..). ... I have recently made two versions of the Bodice Block instructions -Imperial & Metric versions.
In future I will either to do separate versions (Imperial & Metric) for my videos, or include information on screen that gives the equivalent in centimeters.
I have created written instructions for the Drafting the Pants Block in both Metric and Imperial measurements. I am in the process of getting them uploaded onto Amazon and Google Play. They will be available in a few days.
This was very helpful for me! When it comes to drafting fitted pants, like leggings made from stretch fabric - could I use this same block? I already calculated my measurements to include negative ease, so I'm wondering if I could just take all of those same numbers, not add any of your extra measurements for ease, and it still work well?
Thanks!
Hi Miranda.
For stretch pants, you usually reduce the inseam as well as the outseam; in essence this means that the crotch length (thigh ease) is reduced as well as the ease on the outside for the hip.
I would suggest drafting it first to the body measurement (ease taken out), for a Stable Knit (18-25% stretch), making sure you also take out the ease that is added to the crotch for the woven block. You only need to create the one block, the outer edge of which is for Table Knits. Then mark the further reductions for ease on that block.
Moderate Knits with 25-50% stretch: Reduction of 2% (or 98% of) your Body Measurement. (Negative Ease)
Stretch Knits with 50-75% stretch: Reduction of 3% (or 97% of) your Body Measurement (Negative Ease)
Super Stretchy Knits 75-100%) : Reduction of 5% (or 95% of) your Body Measurement (Negative Ease)
Take these amounts out of the waist, hip, out-seam and inseam. (To a total of that reduction %. So if it's 2%, then 1% down the side, and 1% on the inside). So basically the whole shape shrinks down a bit on all sides.
Does that make sense? I have three articles on my website about stretch - and the second one gives examples of how that works on the Bodice Block (using one block and marking all stretch reductions on it), but I haven't got an example for the Pants Block.
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes that does make sense I was wondering what to do about those vertical measurements!
When it comes to the crotch point D, how we extend it just a bit for ease purposes but it also gives us a deeper crotch curve, and then drop it down to create D1 - would we use this same rubric for stretch also? (That is, given that we've already calculated for negative ease in the total measurements) Or do we also apply the reduction % to these numbers? Something else entirely?
I'm still wrapping my head around the concept of the crotch curve lol
Thank you for your video. I have a very similar shape to you (12 inches differential). I was wondering how you determine where the straight line on the centre back stops with this shape (point j). Line p-j where it looks like yours is slightly offset say .5 from j. If I come in 1.5 inches from L should I also come in 0.5 inches at j and offset the other side to accommodate, or just go straight through point j? Is there a rule of thumb or is it a case of trial and error?
HI thank you for this, it was great till I started on the back - my measurements are definitely wider at the crotch level and top of thighs. Do I just follow the same steps as the standard shape with my measurements?
Things were going so well and now I'm STUCK! I've stepped away, and come back, I've started all over .. still stuck. On the BACK pants block, my points Q and R are on the left side of the vertical I, J, K and L .... so am at the point in the video where I'm supposed to connect from point R down, pass through point S and land just to the left of point J -- but, my connecting would have to go inwards from point R if it is to pass through point S to land just to the left of point J! It's all because of where my Q and R are sitting, which again are to the left of the vertical I, J, K and L. I've measured soooo many times and can't figure out what I've done wrong. My waist is 28.5, my low hip is 38" but the widest part sits at crotch level so I make that 2 and 3/4" above crotch level. I'm all jumbled with numbers right now and now I'm confused again. All I know is I can not seem to figure out why Q and R are sitting to the left of the vertical line of I, J, K and L. Please help. I feel so close to being done! ughhh.
Hi there
I’m sorry you are having problems and I understand the frustration, but I can only answer simple questions that take me 5 minutes or so, I cannot provide one-on-one assistance.
In order to give you any meaningful help I would actually have to draft the pants using your measurements to see where you are going wrong (IF you are going wrong - this is the video for the Standard Figure..). I just don’t have time for that. When I started with my website I gave away hundreds of hours of my time helping people for free. Quite often I gave that time out of feeling guilt or responsibility. 90% of the time the person had made a mistake in calculations or in drafting.
In the end I had to set some boundaries, and those boundaries include that I don’t give people free one-on-one help any more. I also don’t provide paid help as that path is fraught with lots of problems also (I am unsure if the person has taken their measurements correctly, I will have to charge for my time regardless of the result, etc. etc).
My videos have helped many people, but they won’t help every single person. I’m sorry this one hasn’t helped you.
I'm very fond of the series, unfortunately it gets sort of hard to follow when you refer back to an earlier point (i.e. leg shaping at 17:23) you don't give any reference points to *where* that earlier point is, which makes it a bit hard to follow if one doesn't want to go through the video multiple times. Sometimes I would like to know "can I just skip to the relevant part of this, or do I have to watch it or I will miss things and then have no idea where to look for them?"
With that said, thank you for helping out with your knowledge - it is still very much appreciated!
I understand the issue, but my problem is that what I create is so time consuming that to go to the extra detail means even more work (either in repeating the steps or looking back to see the timestamp and include that somehow, after the video has been created). In the end either I have to do the work or the person watching has to do the work.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. Could you please explain why you've only added 3/8 inch at the crotch level but added 1inch at the lower hip level. Why the difference ? Sorry if you've explained in the video already but I can understand why ? Thanks in advance.
The instructions are for drafting slacks. Slacks have about 3.5 inches ease in the thigh. 3/8" to the front and 3 1/8 inch to the back. Given the nature of the pants, i.e. a bifurcated garment that goes between the legs, and the shape of the body (generally a flatter stomach and a larger bottom), it is necessary to add the ease unevenly - more ease to the back, less ease to the front. Basically the ease ends up as the extension that comes between the legs. The place that the front and back meet is actually close to the front of the leg than out towards the back of the leg. Therefore less ease is needed for the front leg, more needed on the back leg).
Also, the hip ease has nothing to do with the thigh ease. Trousers have 4-5 inches ease in the thigh, Jeans have about 2-3 inches ease in the thigh. Usually 2 inches ease is the minimum in the hip in pants and skirts, (I am talking about woven fabric here), but the minimum waist ease is usually 1 inch. That is, different parts of the body need different amounts of ease.
Hi, when measuring the crotch length, do you start measuring from the bellybutton or above or below and does this length include the belt? Very informative tutorial. Thank you.
Hi Helen. The crotch length is from the waist, which is usually above the belly button. If you tie a piece of elastic or something around your waist, it should naturally gravitate to the smallest area around the midriff - i.e. the waist. Measure from and to this elastic (from front to back, or from back to front). Now the belt is another issue and depends on the pattern you are drafting; the basic block doesn't have a belt.
Does the finished block have seam allowance? If not do I just add it evenly all over?
Hi Carly, no blocks do not include seam allowance. It is a personal preference - what easier for you, what you are used to or what you prefer. Commercial sewing patterns generally use 1.5cm or 5/8 inch, except for the hem (2cm? 2.5cm?_ . I use 1cm all around except for the hem.
Is there a video for scaling this to fit dolls?
Hello, thank u very much for the videos. Min 18.30 abot the calculation of the back crotch line did u mean upper thigh equal 4 or 2 as written? (+ 3. 1/8)
Hi there, at 18:36 where it says Upper Thigh divided by 2 + 3 1/8 inch..... yes, it is divided by 2, not by 4. This is the thigh measurement, around the top of the leg.
Question: Why is the cut line at 27:00 diagonal? In other instructions I’ve read it has to be perpendicular to the grain line (e. g. hipline or above) , but they didn’t explain why? Thank you in advance and for these amazing tutorials!
Hello Julia
I really have no idea why they say that. What I always do it test it by cutting and spreading the various ways, then comparing the final outcome. It really makes no difference to the integrity of the pattern. What is does make a difference in.... is that it's easier to draw/blend the crotch curve when cut on the diagonal. I did used to have a page where I showed examples of this and I sent people links to that page on my website. I seemed to have lost that page recently when I moved my website over to a new CMS. I will try at some point to make some FAQ very short videos to answer questions like these or redo that page on my website. It will just be added to my list of things to do.
Here's the link.... dresspatternmaking.com/increasing-crotch-length/
Do we need to add seam allowances to this block or have you included it? Thanks
Blocks do not include seam allowance. Seam allowance is added after drafting the pattern.
Hi Maria, I'm really confused about the ease amounts. You said that this block has 1" ease in the waist, 2" ease in the hip which is distributed unevenly (1/3 of 2" in front and 2/3 of 2" in back), and 2.5" in thigh.
My waist and thighs ended up with a tiny bit more than the ease you said to add (I'm hoping this is okay - not sure why it happened).
But the low hip has way too little ease. I don't understand why in the instructions you calculate (low hip + 1" ease) / 4. Why add 1" ease and not 2" since that's the amount you said is needed for the hip. Also it's not distributed unevenly like it was suppose to be. Could you explain the reason behind the ease please?
Also, when I go to make the back pattern and flip the front pattern to draw in the outer side seam, you said to match up kneelines and rotate so the front touches point D2 and point M. But when I do that I can't get point M on the front block to touch the low hip on the back. Mine is way below the low hip line. Do I trace past point M to the low hip line on the back or just to point M?
Thank you, love your work!
I know you wrote this ages ago, but I'm going back and answering all the comments I didn't get to on the off chance you still want an answer.
Firstly, if you could reference things that would be really helpful. I spent an age going a search on 'ease' in all my transcripts, and can't find where I said that we are adding 2 inches ease to the low hip, and the only reference I can find to adding ease unevenly TO THE HIP was in video 3, where I said you COULD add it unevenly if you wish. (Ease is added unevenly to the thigh, the knee etc..)
2 inches ease sounds right for Trousers, so if I did say it I may have just been thinking of trousers when I said it.
1.5 inches ease in the hip is ideal for slacks. Although we are adding only 1 inch total in the instructions, the Standard Figure ends up with an additional half inch when the back crotch curve is drawn. (Look at 23:13 in the video. From M to J is the hip with ease. So there is 1 inch ease across the block. But there is also an additional amount to the left of J, so from J to the curve. There is 1/4 inch there, making 1/2 inch (as there are 2 back legs). So there is 1.5 inches ease in total.
If you are curvy, you might be having the same problem I had - see 23:37 of Part 3. IN this case, what/where I was measuring was not ending up at the right place on the block. In this case I should have been using a bigger measurement. It's not so much that I needed more ease, but that I needed to be using a larger measurement because the 3-D measurement on my body was ending up different on the 2D Block. (A limitation of translating the 3D body to a 2D plane).
Also... ease is a very personal thing. What is sufficient for one person is not sufficient for another. What someone finds loose, some other person finds tight. If it's not enough for you, add more....
Regarding using the Front Block to draw the side seam of the Back Block. The essential thing is that the side seam lengths are the same, and all the better if we can get the same the same (which won't stay the same if we need to cut and spread the back to get more crotch length).
So if the low hip line of the front block ends up short of point M, continue tracing the front block until you get to point M. Then, without lifting the front block off, rotate/swivel is until the low hip line on the front block is horizontal (it won't be exactly on top of the low hip line of the back block, but it does need to be parallel). Then continue tracing the front block from point M up to the waist. When you have finished tracing off the front and lift it up, you'll find the waistline of the back block will end up a little short of the original 'waistline'. That original 'waistline' was a starting point and a guideline, it doesn't matter if the back waistline ends up a bit before that line.
Hope that helps.
Hi! I’ve recently bought your pattern making ebook in metric system, and when doing the front pant , either following the standard figure or the Maria figure my measurement for for the high hip is always off 😢 when I do point q and point r no matter how I do the math the points do not connect with a line to point m there’s a gap of around 2 cm if I want to connect point q to m without passing trough point r, help please 😢
I'm having trouble understanding the Front Knee measurement for C to Centre, and D to Centre. I have a 22" knee girth. So is the amount for each side of the knee #1) (22/2) = 11, so (11 + 5/8") / 2 = 5.81"?. Or is it #2) (22/2) = 11, so (11/2) = 5.5" + 5/8" = 6 1/8"? I'm having the same problem with C + D for Crotch Girth widths. Thank you.2
First divide by 2, then add the ease.
E to F is where the knee measurements are plotted.
If your knee is 22 inches (bent), then divide it by 2 = 11 inches
Then add the ease (5/8 inch for the Front), which totals 11& 5/8 (11.63 inches)
Place this measurement at the knee line, half either side of the A to B vertical line.
Same applies to the Upper Thigh (C to D). Divide the body measurement by 2, then add the ease.
I’m confused on the placing of C and D my measurements came out to 25/2+3/8 gave me 12 7/8 but not exactly sure where to place on the A B line?
Is this pattern block compatible for men as well?
Hi Kabo. No, sorry, men's patternmaking is different.... I have never drafted for men.
@@Dresspatternmaking Hi Maria, I just wanted to let you know that I enjoy reading everyone's questions and your responses. This morning I was wondering the same question that @Kabodnm asked 2 years ago.
"Is this pattern block compatible for men as well?"
Your answer "No" stopped my wandering mind. However, I am watching intently on the shaping down
for a prominent upper thigh. My poor kid always had his pants split in this area.
I hope you are going to have a wonderful weekend. Pray for peace.
Always grateful!
Are you drafting this on one large piece of paper for the back and front block? Or is this only for the front and you will draft the back block separately?
are your side seams not parallel for the non-standard blocks?
Hello, wow!! There's a lot to take in. But working through it. I have however come up against a stumble. My high hip is my largest size so I have taken 2 3/4 off my crotch length to get my low hip. My issue is calculating point C to point i - which part do I use??
Yes, how do you calculate point 'i' ?
What measurements did you use to draft the standard figure?
In order to make it comparable to mine, I drafted it for the same hip measurement as mine - 108cm / 42.5 inches. The Standard Figure's waist is 10 inches (or 9.5 inches sometimes) less than the hip.
How do I buy this ebook- Drafting Custom Pants Blocks That Fit (Imperial Version): Step-by-Step With Graphics. Cant find a buy button on google books Thanks Sue
Ignore my message , I got it from your other store . Thanks Sue
Thankyou
You’re welcome 😊
Hi, wat us mean by 3/8 inch ease
Hi , Great Tutorial, Can we divide the waistline measurement equally at center line of bottom and knee and the make the crotch extension from hip measurement , and then draft side seam shape and front rise shape ? Its means waist / knee/ bottom measurement are equally divided over center of line .. Thanks for your answer .
Hi Sanjay, sorry I am not sure I understand the question fully.
Regarding the question "(can we).... make the crotch extension from the hip measurement.." My system specifically does NOT make the crotch extension from the hip measurement because that is assuming that the thigh is a certain proportion of the hip, and the reason I devised instructions without using the crotch extension method, (using the thigh measurement instead), is to cater also for non-standard figures whose thigh measurement may have a different hip/thigh proportion.
Again, I'm finding it hard to understand the whole question, but do you mean drawing the grainline down from the centre of the waist, and thereby moving the whole legline over to the left?
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for your quick reply. let me explain again. what i mean to say if we draw center line in pattern , waist / hip / knee & bottom measurements would be equally divided, but the thigh/crotch measurements would be offset on one side.In your case you are taking crotch/ knee and bottom measurements are equally divided and waist is offset, I can send a sketch if i know your mail ID. Thanks
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes , Part two of your answer.
@@sanjay_media For certain types of figures - such as bow legs or knock knees - you move the legline below the thigh over towards the outseam more, or towards the inseam more. Usually the recommended amount is about 2cm (0.75 inch), and usually done below the thigh. So you'd move the base and the knee over that much and blend to the thigh. You would then redraw the grainline from the new mid-base, through the new mid-knee, through the mid-thigh up to the waist. (I guess what I'm saying is, it's not to do with the waist measurement, it's more about moving the legline below the thigh over a little. Most block making instructions do have, as the starting point, the mid-line through the mid-thigh, or a tiny bit more inwards - e.g. + quarter inch).
So I have a big tummy area so my front crotch length is longer than my crotch depth. Do I raise my point p to make it work? Or move D1 to the right more? Or both?
Does anyone have advice, for the triangle body shape, on how to know how far in to move point P from L, or how to actually calculate changes in the ease at the high hip? I understand the suggestions, but feel like I would be blindly guessing. Is there a step-by-step section for this body shape that I'm simply missing?
Hello Magpie,
I say this at the very beginning of my videos: “If you want to understand the shape of pants and how to get a better fit, I recommend that you watch the instructions for all four figures, not just the one that might be more like yours. I’m not covering every single figure type and permutation but if you watch all the examples, you should get a basic understanding of how the pant fits and how to draft your pant to fit you.”
My aim was always to get people to understand what they are doing so they can solve the problems that arise. The three non-standard figures I used was to try to encompass MOST of the issues that arise, but that is NOT to say that they would cover EVERY issue, and there would be many people who have figures that do not fit exactly into the ones I’ve given (as above “not covering every single figure type and permutation”). Which is why I try to get people to understand the problem and use problem solving techniques.
I really would like for you to understand why I can’t give a set amount (for example: ¾ inch) from L to P for the ‘Triangle Figure’, so I will explain it below.
Giving a set amount works for the Standard Figure because all Standard Figures have 10 inches difference between the waist and hip. A half-inch works well for everyone who has 10 inches difference, regardless if they are size 6, size 10 or size 22.
Someone with a ‘Triangle Figure’ (bigger waist/hip difference) could have 11 inches, or 13 inches, or 12 inches, or 15 inches, or 20 inches difference between the waist and hips. Do you understand that if I say “come in ¾ of an inch”, that that will not work out for BOTH someone with 11 inches difference between the waist/hip and someone with 20 inches difference?
Having said all that, I thought that I did give examples somewhere in those videos for waist shaping for different figure types, but off the top of my head I wouldn't know where exactly it is.
Really the only direct help I can give you is this: Start with the amount given for the Standard Figure (L to P), then split the remainder of your waist/hip difference between your dart and side seam. If you end up with a very curved side seam then increase your dart width and/or create a second dart.
Is seam allowances are added in the pattern??
No, these are instructions for blocks, not patterns. Blocks do not include seam allowance, that is added when drafting patterns.
Do these patterns account for seam allowance or am I supposed to add that when I'm tracing it onto my fabric?
Blocks do not contain seam allowance. Seam allowance is always added when drafting patterns.
Okay thank you! Gonna be making some pants today!
Excuse me, I have a question, if you can help me
If we reduce the width of the crotch in the front of the pants, is it effective in the beauty of the pants?
In some methods (for one size), the front crotch width is, for example, 6, but in others it is 5 or 4
which one is better ?? And give us better pants? I'm sorry if I wrote bad English
The 'crotch length' is just a way of adding to the hip measurement to get the thigh measurement. It will therefore need to be different lengths for different women, depending on their thigh measurement. The crotch length is also different for trousers, slacks and jeans.
So the crotch length will depend on (1) the type of pants you are drafting (slacks, jeans, trousers), and (2) your thigh measurement.
This is all explained in detail in Part 1 of my Pants Video.
I'm not understanding what you mean when you say that when you draft using your measurements for the standard figure, you end up with 1/2 inch excess ease in the high hip. If Point R is high hip plus ease, and you say to pass that line goes point R, how can there be excess ease? I'm trying to understand how to figure out if there's excess ease for me (I have a 30 cm difference in my waist and high hip and a 40 CM difference in waist and low hip). I just don't get it! What am I missing? Is it that you weren't able to pass the line through point R with a smooth curve?
Do you mean at 11:40 min? The excess ease would occur if you drew in the sides seam as shown.
Can I make a jeans from this tutorial?
This is just the basic pants block. You could use the pants block to draft a pair of jeans, but you could also first draft a jeans block from the pants block.... Generally though there is a bit of work involved in drafting a pair of jeans from the pants block.
By which I mean drafting a standard jeans pattern with a back yoke, pockets front and back, etc…
Your tutorials are the best🥹🥹 Please make a tutorial for jeans as well that would be really great as I have tried a lots of videos from RUclips but none of them were like yours, so please make a tutorial for jeans as well🥹🙏
May I ask at time 2:00: Why do we measure side waist to side ankle size to mark A and B point at the right of the picture which is the front Grain Line? Thank you!
Hi Claire. The side seam measurement is the same for the Front and the Back. There can be quite a bit of difference between the CF and CB measurements. Therefore we start with the measurement that is the same for both front and back. When you say it's the grain-line measurement - in fact it is not. If you go to 19:20 you will see that the front grain-line is not from A to B, it stops a bit before A, and for the back it extends up above A. The side seam however, is pretty much the measurement we started with (A to B), or it may be just a touch longer given the curve down the side seam. This little bit extra probably makes no difference, or if it does, when you make the toile and you think the length of the pant is a bit too long, you would make an adjustment.
@@Dresspatternmaking It is very clear. Thank you very much!
Hi :) loved following along on your drafting course - however I have a couple of questions regarding plus size. Is there anywhere I can write you? Would love your input if you have the time :)
Hello Katrine.
When I tested my system I did test on a number of women with very different body types and sizes. I tested on a someone with a waist of 41.75inches (108cm) and hip 46.5 inches (118cm) - she was only just over 5 feet tall . I drafted the block and made her the toile and it fit well.
I have read some information on drafting for very larger sizes that says that you need a bit more ease and a lower crotch depth.
If you have questions you are either (a) visit my website and leave a comment on one of the pages that relate the Pants, or (b) write them here. I would prefer that you ask the questions in the comments section rather than a private email. If I can help at all, I would prefer that other people who might have the same questions can access that information as well. You an also contact me via the Contact form on my website if you wish. There is a link to my website in the header.
How do I do this without darts, for a man?
Patternmaking for men is different and I don't have any knowledge about it except they do need an 'adjustment' for the 'man's part'.
The pants you taught me to make fit the same way RTW pants do; ugly, uncomfortable, and hanging and twisting in all sorts of strange ways on my legs.
I cannot center the thigh on the A to B line. Also, the AB line runs up my hip to waist exactly 3 inches from center front and even closer in the back. I don't think anyone should be advised to just center the thigh measurement on the creaseline or to shift your circumference measurements about above the crotch like you're playing Tetris. If the intersection of your circumference measurements with the AB line is not true to your body, it will create problems with both the crotch and thigh area and the pants will not hang plumb so the inseam and outseam will never be the right length and you'll end up with tight fabric in one area and loose fabric in the opposite area because you have the right circumference measurement but you put the fabric in the wrong place.
On my block the centre/grainline (the A to B line) is 3 inches from the CF, and 0 inches (yes, zero) from the CB (my grainline ends up at the CB waistpoint). For reference: my hip is 108cm (42.5 inches), my thigh is 62cm (24.4 inches).
I have just then looked at 2 different standard patternmaking systems (by respected authorities in the field) and this is what I found:
Aldrich Pants Block: drafting a block with a 93cm hip (36.5 inches) and using the standard extension method which assumes the thigh measurement, from the centre/grainline to the CF line is 3 inches. From the centre/grainline, it is 2.3 inches.
Joseph-Armstrong Trouser Block: The grainline is approx. mid-upper-thigh (the thigh at the crotch level). The distance from this centre/grainline to the CF and CB is similar to what I’ve given above to Aldrich.
My point here is: You have a fitting problem, but what you seem to think is the reason for the problem may not be the reason you have having the problem. (Given that I don’t know your measurements, whether or not a measurement of 3 inches from the CF to the center line is right or wrong is not something that I know one way or another, but it does not sound unreasonable).
The main difference between my system and other systems (such as Armstrong, Aldrich and most others out there) is that I include the thigh measurement and show people how to get the extra crotch length needed.
A lot of people have got good results using my system, after having tried other systems without success. However, I do understand that not everyone may end up with a perfect result.
But given your seeming expertise in this matter, it surprises me that you need any help at all. This is where I tell you that I have taken exception to your snarkiness. Perhaps once you have figured out your problem, you can create a system to help others draft their blocks, and put it up on RUclips to help others. Given how much you seem to know this should be no problem for you at all. Of course you will no doubt spend hundreds of hours doing this work, and provide the instructions to everyone for free. And of course it will work perfectly for everyone first time.
So instead of asking a question you just attack and tell me everything I don't know, tell me what I'm teaching is all wrong and how you know better (i.e. snarkiness and rudeness) . I've spent half an hour of my time to give you the information above to show you that at least in part you have no idea what you are talking about, but I have no intention of engaging with you again and giving you any more of my time. Please do not leave any more comments on my channel. (Of course I could just block you but that would remove your comment and my reply which I would really like to leave up. But if you do comment again I will block you).
I don’t see my comment so writing it again I’m having trouble so early in the video oh no ok so my measurement at crotch level is 12 7/8 after dividing by 2 and adding the 3/8. so where do I place that measurement and where does C and D from the measurements I’m dying to finally make this work after so many attempts at other tutorials but I’m afraid I’m already lost 😞
If your thigh measurement is 12 7/8, then dividing by 2 will get you 6 and 7/16. Add 3/8 inch to the 6 7/16 gives a total of 6 and 13/16. Half of that amount goes to the left of the A~B line and you mark point C. The other half goes to the right of the A~B line and you mark point D.
🥰🥰💞👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you!
27:20 Flat Bottom Alterations
17:38 Drafting the Pants Back
@3:15 can someone please help? how do I know how far out is C and D if my measurements going on the center line of A and B I watched like ten times and still can’t figure it out lol I guess that’s why I didn’t do so well in math 😠
You center the measurement on the A line. That means half of the measurement goes to the left of the A~B and the other half of the meausurement goes to the right of the A~B line. (Basically divide the measurement by 2, then measure out for that amount to the left and mark point C, then measure out for that amount to the right and mark point D).
Why didn't you mark the point S at the middle of point L at waist and the upper thigh line ..in your block?
how to draft Indian saree blouse with deep front and back neck neck and 1 inch broad shoulder straps ?
Hello P. Deep necklines require contouring and I have some contouring information on my website. Contouring is different for every person and you would need to work yours out yourself. You would use your custom block and draw the necklines you want, then make any necessary adjustments according to your contouring needs.
@@Dresspatternmaking Yes, I tried it after reading it on your website, I made a block with the help of the information but the shoulder straps are sliping a little bit and I am not able to join sleeves to it because when sleeves are attatched it is going off the shoulders.... any suggestions......plz ...
@@P-b6r Hello P. If the straps are falling off, the most likely issue is that you haven't worked out your contouring gape darts correctly (i.e. worked out your gape darts for a lowered neckline), or you haven't pivoted that gape dart into one of the other darts. For example, if I draft a V-neckline that is 11cm down from the Centre Front, I have to move a 1.25 cm gape dart from the neckline to one of the other darts. Standard Contouring is only about 0.5cm.
Also, as I think I've mentioned before, you cannot have a really deep back neckline and a really deep front neckline and expect the garment to stay on your shoulders. If you have a deep front, you will need a fairly high back, and visa versa.
There are also other issues that may be at play, e.g. if you have a rounded upper back with forward sloping shoulders, and you have not made your back armhole big enough...
I think the first thing to do is to check and vertify your contouring gape darts.
You say you have made the block with the help of the information on my website, but have you read all the page on contouring? Especially the last page in the list below; In Action Example:
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/the-need-for-contouring-example
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/contour-markings-gape-darts
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/sleeveless-block
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/standard-contouring
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/individual-contouring
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/strapless
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/in-action-example
@@Dresspatternmaking thank you So much fro your reply..:-) I will try it once again.
Hopelessly confused and lost. my back looks just like my front except wider
8:31 I dont understand.
You don't understand the calculation?
Yes, sadly. My measurements:
Waist 36 1/2,
High hip 37,
Low hip 38.
I can not connect points M, Q and R with french curve. Line from P to Q seems too long. Line from K to R too short. I feel myself so downed.
@@Dresspatternmaking I returned to my project.
@@Dresspatternmaking I tryed system Muller&Sohn. Same problem - line on the waist seems much longer than the line on Hiegh hip. For me connecting points on Low hip-Hiegh hip-Waist lines with smooth curve is impossible.
@@Dresspatternmaking I asked my wife for help. She are smarter than me. She is a Bachelor of Russian Language and Literature, for God sake! No, we two cant figure out how to draw this line.