Learn How to Draft the Pants Block, Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2024
- This is Part 4 of the Pants Block Series. I'm drafting the Pants Block for Jane, who has a squarer figure and a drop bottom.
My system for drafting pants gets a better result for Non-Standard Figures than a lot of other block making instructions, which have been created within the fashion industry that works with Standard Figures.
Booklets: Bodice & Pants
Link to my Ko-Fi shop where you can buy my instruction booklets:
ko-fi.com/mari...
My website:
www.dresspatte...
Link to my books on Google Play:
Pants Metric
play.google.co...
Pants Imperial
play.google.co...
Bodice Metric
play.google.co...
Bodice Imperial
play.google.co...
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Here is a link to Pants Part 5:
ruclips.net/video/FbTclIhI7N4/видео.html
Your explanations are very much appreciated, especially regarding the crouch extension.
Thank you. I have hope I may really sew pants that fit my figure. You have shared an enormous amount of information in an easy to follow format. I will be drafting my new sloper as soon as time permits!
Hi Amy, I just noticed I never answered this comment. Hope you got around to making a sloper!
I am amazed! I did a quick and dirty knee length draft, basted together in some junk fabric this afternoon. There is no excess width of fabric at the back of the thigh. That has always been my nemesis. A couple trivial tweaks will make this block ready to make real shorts. You are a genius.
Hell Stitchknit, I am so pleased - both for you and me. I always get a buzz when I get this kind of feedback. Eventually I plan on putting up a basic pants pattern and a jeans pattern, but it will be a while before I get to shorts. Good luck with those...
Nice to see you again! I was waiting for the Jane shape. Thank you very much for the amazing job!
These are so good! I generally end up with extra space around the front crotch/ front thigh area, and hopefully I can now solve that problem ”from the ground up” rather than not so functional after-adjusting.
Hope you have had some success. Let me know...
Thank you !
You're welcome!
Thank you so much -have a couple of coffees on me!!
Hi Chris, thank you so much.
It's a long time since I've posted anything, but I am working on stuff now and will hopefully be posting soon. As is hopefully obvious, it takes me a long time to create content given that creating the step-by-step images are very time consuming. I have spent a few months just patternmaking and sewing and have a LOT of information to get out there.
Thank you for the video .
You're welcome
Thank you for all of your effort. I am stuck knowing the back crotch length isn't long enough, but not knowing how much to extend it by because I am unsure how much ease should be added. If my line is currently 17 7/8" and my back crotch length is 19 5/8", by how much should I extend it?
Thank you in advance.
Hi Jayde. Since we dropped the crotch 5/8 inch, you could add up to 5/8 inch for ease. (Someone else who asked this and tried 5/8 inch said she ended only needed 1/4 inch or so, it depends on how exact your initial measurement is).
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you so much for your quick reply!
I am so very grateful for your tutorials. I'm hoping I can finally have some pants that fit! It would make my whole life a lot easier and that's not even an exaggeration.
Really appreciate you taking the time to do these wonderful tutorials.
Hello Dresspatternmaking , thank you for these videos. They are very detailed and informative.
Which block would you consider a better fit for the measurements waist -35, high hip -38.5, low hip -40 and crotch girth -37. (large tummy, 5ft tall)? There is only 5" difference between waist and low hip.
Hello Neethu
If you are referring to the Standard Blocks I sell through my Ko-Fi shop, there are detailed measurements on my website, including downloadable PDF files. (Look under the Shop Menu and you will see the sub-menu items for the measurements charts, or use the links below:
dresspatternmaking.com/shop/measurements-chart/
dresspatternmaking.com/shop/measurements-pdf-files/
The chart and the downloadable files gives the complete list of measurements used. I specify clearly that people should only buy these blocks only if they closely match their body, or if you are a seasoned sewer who is accustomed to making the necessary adjustments to commercial patterns.
If your measurements do not closely match the ones given and you don't have the skills to make the necessary adjustments (i.e. you have not been sewing for years and have been making those adjustments to commercial patterns), then I don't recommend you buy those blocks. In that case I would recommend you draft your own personal block.
I will leave that up to you to check your measurements against those given in the charts and decide whether they match your body.
I have a question about the section around 15 minutes in. When I measure my crotch width, keeping the tape measure level at the front and back, but using the front as the guide for position, the tape measure goes over a portion of my buttocks. Should I not keep the tape level, or just accept that that's the way my body is and use that crotch width to develop the pattern (it is larger than my low hip)?
Hi Christine, I am assuming this is the comment to ignore?? (Keep the tape level to the floor. Same thing for me - goes over part of my buttocks - due to the dropped bottom).
Thank you very much for this. I am a Jane. This is the best pants drafting block I have tried. I have spent countless hours on other methods. After only 2 muslins, I have a working block. I had observed that on some patterns, the back is parallel to the straight of grain while on others, the back foundation veers away from the leg line. This puzzled me. Your videos have explained the why. For me, that wedge was the key. Also, I had always (wrongly) assumed that I needed a vertical centre front seam between waist and hips. However, your sloped centre front is perfect.
Like you, I used point q for the centre back, rather than point r, and compensated by adding the 3/4 " to the wedge.
Re: the crotch length. I used your 'gadget' to measure the crotch length. I noticed that you didn't add any ease to this number. Is the block meant to fit right against the the body or would measuring over bike shorts give some ease?
I look forward to your e book.
Hello EF, thanks for that feedback. I'm always very pleased to hear that it works.
Regarding the ease, I have made a mistake there. At about 7:33min into Part 2, I give instructions to drop the crotch point 5/8 inch (1.5cm). I should then have said, when you measure the length at the end to compare to your body measurement, you need to add some to account for that dropped portion. There are a few of these oversights/mistakes I am trying to correct in the EPUB booklet. I think I may have to make another short video explaining the differences between the EPUB booklet and what appears in the 5 videos. It has been a work in progress; it's hard to get things perfect straight off the bat. I'm getting the details finalised in the EPUB.
Sorry also for the delay in answering my comments, I have been concentrating on trying to get this EPUB book finished. I've just had problems trying to distill what is in 5 videos (2.5 hours) into one book. I am on the tail end of it now...
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for your reply. I did add 5/8" to the crotch length, but in the end didn't need all of it: 1/4" worked fine. I think both the bike shorts and the biased centre back seam give some 'wiggle' room. You have created an excellent block. Your analysis of the "why" has really helped my understanding of how a 2d pattern can represent a 3d body and is a welcome addition to the connect the dots approach.
Excellent, thank you for asking this as I came on here to ask the exact same question!
Why did you position your grainline there in the middle (approximately) and not somewhere else?
Hello Epic, it's customary, or the convention to place the grainline in 'the middle'. The question is, the middle of what? The middle of the hip, the thigh, the knee..? The answer is the middle of the hem. If you look at the grainline on all the blocks on my videos, it is drawn up from point B on the ankle line, which is the mid-point of the G to H ankle measurement.
This does mean that the grainline will be different some pants you draft - with really wide legs you add more to the outside of the leg than to the inside of the leg, which means the grainline will move out, it won't be in the same place as on the block. (i.e. when looking at the grainline on the foundation, it will not look like it's in the middle of the hip or the thigh).
The reason for it being drawn up from the middle of the base of the pant?
Well, firstly, in MOST cases it really doesn't make any difference at all. Every thread that runs parallel to the selvedge is the straight grain.... It really doesn't matter if you draw the grainline to the side, as long as it is at right angles to the base.
What I'm saying is that's mainly convention, but it makes sense when you think about it in a number of ways.
(1) If you are drawing a line that is at right angles to the base, it's probably easier/more likely to be drawn correctly if you draw it from the middle of the base.
(2) Another way to think about it.. Say you draft pants with a fabric with stripes. If you had stripes of different widths, and you wanted the 'main' stripe or the 'strongest' stripe to run down 'the middle'. It would sense for that middle to be the middle of the base of the leg. If the strongest stripe ended up to the left or the right at the base of the leg, it would look unbalanced. (Maybe you disagree with this, but definitely pants with creases have the crease end in the middle of the base ankle/base, not out to one side or the other)
Chị yêu thật tuyệt vời em cảm ơn chị yêu
You are welcome.
@@Dresspatternmaking chị yêu xinh đẹp có khỏe không
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Thank you!
Thanks mam sharing this clip,anyway how do you determine the crotch length when you need an increase while drafting the pants block please I would like to have your feedback
Hello Famida
Again, I'm a bit confused here. If you measure your crotch length you know what it needs to be. My videos show you how to increase the crotch length (front and/or back) but cutting and spreading from the crotch to the hip point, and then increasing or decreasing that to match your body measurement.
Hey I was wondering where I could find the full size chart behind you? Thanks!
Hello Eli, I'm sorry I don't know what chart you are referring to...
@@Dresspatternmaking in your intro there is a chart of average measurements for each size behind the drawing of you.
Ignore my previous question. I wasn't entirely with the program.
No worries.
How do I buy you a cup of coffee? I just MUST buy you some. This videos are incredible!!!
Thanks Ana Maria, sorry for the delay in responding. Glad you are finding the information useful. (There's a link to Ko-Fi in my channel header...)
Hi,
Thanks you so much for all of the work you have put into these videos. I have a real displeasure with instructions that tell me to “just do something” without telling me why and you explain so much and I’ve taken so many notes it’s been brilliant.
Two questions I do have is, you speak several times about the EPUB booklet which you are publishing, but I’ve been on your website and I can’t find it.
The second question is, does the EPUB give a finalised version which take into account the revisions your made throughout the trouser block series? I’m having to go backwards and forwards between the videos at the moment and I’m tying myself in knots, I’m hoping the EPUB, if available, will mitigate this.
Anywho - all my love, gratefulness and reverence - Leanna 🫶🏻
How are the front and back inseams going to line up together when the crotch is 2 inches lower? They don't match!! The back block is longer than the front block. Any suggestions?
Hi Irene, I think you are referring to the guideline you draw down from C, at right angles to C. (Around 13 minutes). That is just a guideline. You then use your front block and trace it... You swivel your front block to touch that guideline. Given that you are tracing your front block, the inseams must end up the same length....
i suggest you watch that bit again and notice (a) the line down from C (2 inches) line is a guideline towards which I swiveled the front, and (b) I am matching the front block to the back block at the kneeline, then tracing the front block from the knee up to the crotch point, therefore the inseams are exactly the same length.
@@Dresspatternmaking ah yes. It's just a guideline! Thank you for the clarification!
Hi chị yêu xinh đẹp khỏe chứ
Please summarise how would you know if your crotch is shorter
Hello Famida
I'm unsure what exactly you mean. You do need to take your own crotch measurement; you don't need to compare it to anything.