Here are links to the latest Bodice Block Instructions for use with this Sleeve: Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version ruclips.net/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/видео.html Bodice Block Front - Metric Version ruclips.net/video/2ubak0HM2HY/видео.html Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version ruclips.net/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/видео.html Bodice Block Back - Metric Version ruclips.net/video/aW4mRJNRke4/видео.html
I came a longggggggg way today following your Playlist of explanations. Thank you! I totally got lost when you used Metric for the instruction for A to Z for the computer screen demonstration. Redoing with CM to Inch later! I don't draft online, but another RUclips Pattern Maker does. She said that the lower leg of the Dart is usually longer. Add the difference to the horizontal dart leg, and that forms the dart tip! Haven't tried it yet. Still folding paper.
Hello Momzilla, I have seen your comments on my other videos - thank you and welcome. No need to do the converting from cm to inches yourself - there is an Imperial version of this video - same title was with "Imperial Version" in the title.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks Maria, I found it in your Show Notes, which should have been the first place I looked for it. I'll watch it now while taking easier notes. LOL
This is quite possibly the best bodice instructions I've found for a non standard shape like myself. Also I UNDERSTAND patterns thanks to your teaching. Thank you so much x
Thank you so much for all of your content Maria - it has been invaluable to me as a narrow torso with large bust figure. All of my front bodice drafts have ended up too short from full bust to waist , even when i triple checked my CF and FL front measurements - it’s just when the dart is closed for my modulage and toile , the shaping , which fits beautifully at bust , hikes the waistline up - easily fixed by adding 2cm to the lower edge of drafted block from CF through waist dart and blending to my measured side length at side seam .
Thank you for such a complete and thoughtful way of explaining things ! I'm a total beginner and I've already learned so much after watching attentively three of your videos !!
Really appreciate your efforts... Please make a tutorial video on how to draft basic bodice for women having big belly or belly protrusion is more than the bust?
Este método es excelente. Estoy volviendo a retomar las medidas para hacer un moulage una vez más, ya que engordé 15 kilos y mis medidas han cambiado un poco, algunas disminuyeron curiosamente y otras aumentaron como era de esperar. Pero el método es infalible. Ahora que lo leo nuevamente, lo voy entendiendo mejor. Conviene medir la parte derecha e izquierda del cuerpo, porque tenemos asimetrías y algunas pueden ser significativas. El mejor método, no me arrepiento de haber comprado el PDF con las instrucciones, de las más claras que he leído.
Gracias Quimera, y buena suerte. For me, the pleasure of wearing well-fitting clothes (after so many years and years of struggling to find anything that fit to any degree) is wonderful!
Hola, gracias por el tutorial, es muy interesante ya que casi nadie te dice como hacer un patrón para las tallas con busto grande (he estado viendo los otros videos son muy buenos )...muchas gracias, también tengo una pregunta donde puedo descargar la lista para las medidas (Measurement list) ?me dice que la página ya no se encuentra ...Saludos
Hello Lina, I was making changes to my website so things were not working properly for a while. You can download the measurement list from this page: dresspatternmaking.com/videos/video-taking-measurements-to-draft-the-bodice-block/
Hi Maria Thank you so much for this video! I have hit a roadblock drafting my second dart leg. Point O2 doesn't reach point O at the waistline. I have remeasured several times with the same result. Should I continue using point O instead of O2? Thank you!
Hi Cora, the second dart leg needs to be the same length as the first one. Measure the first dart leg, then using that length, draw a line from the Dart Point through point O, so you end up with the measurement you want. At that point - where the dart leg is the length you need - mark point O2.
Thank you Maria. I have been on this fitting journey for awhile now and really appreciate your expertise at getting my non standard body into a bodice that actually fits! 🙂
@@Dresspatternmaking Hi, so is it fine if the line from L to O2 points upwards instead of downwards? This is what happened to me because O2 didn't go past O but was behind it.
@@gabrielaschwendlervieira2529 - Hi Gabriela. I'm not sure what you mean by 'points upwards'. Measure from the Bust Point downwards in both cases. So measure FROM the BP to point N2 (= measurement x). Using measurement x, measure FROM the BP towards to Point O, and mark point O2. (It may help to first draw a guideline from the Bust Point to Point O.... measure along that line for measurement x and mark point O2)
@@Dresspatternmaking I am having the same issue. My measurement from the BP to N2 is 8.5 but the measurement from the BP to O is 9.5 so the dart measurement ends above point O and above the line from L to N2. this creates a funny little dog leg.
Hello ! when pivoting to form the 2 dart legs I end up with such a small dart at the bust and bigger at the waist. and if i try to make it proportional the tip of the side is one inches above the waist line
Well, I thought I was going great, wonderful instructions, a myriad of measurements, but something went horribly wrong🙃 For starters I have a 10cm difference between upper bust and full bust which has resulted in a very large dart area and a kind of acute side seam. So when we get to adding a second dart, the first one will close all the way and still not reach the the base line! Very confused. Any suggestions or thoughts? I am going to go back and revisit the whole thing as this is my first attempt.
Hi Teresa, I have close to a 10cm difference between my Upper Bust and my Bust. Have a look at my block at 6:15 on the video. On the RHS my block is superimposed on Didi's block - compare the side seam angles. Yes, my side seam angle is more extreme than Didi's. The fact that there is a 10cm difference isn't what is causing your problems. (If you haven't already watched my Bodice Block Essentials Video, particularly the Patternmaking Bust Cups vs Bra Bust Cups, I suggest you do so). There are a lot of reasons that would result in this scenario; could be one mistake, or it could be a number of mistakes that compound upon each other. To give you one example of how this error could occur, using my block: if I 'made a mistake' in my side seam length (in either measurement or just making a mistake when drafting) and the side seam length I was using was 4cm shorter than my actual side-seam length, then the same thing would happen to me - my waist dart would close without the side seam reaching the waistline. This is not to say this is what is happening with you, but this is one 'mistake' that could result in the error you are getting. However, there could another reason, or many other reasons. I suggest you start again fresh as sometimes when you go over the same version, you often miss the mistake or keep making the same mistake. (Someone else asked this question on the Imperial version of this video and I gave a more detailed answer of the most likely measurement mistakes that could result in this. It is one of the comments near the top).
@@Dresspatternmaking Firstly, thank you Maria for responding. I went back to the beginning and yes, there were a couple of oversights. I am tallish, 1.71m but I feel short on the upper torso. My armhole depth seems very shallow. However, I now have a reasonable block pattern to commence with. Thank you again for the input. I have moved onto the back and oh my gosh. Covid weight and extra cms have me moving out of the initial oblong. I will address that with you on the next side. Again, many thanks for your advice. Like most people, I have q
Hello Harriet (?), sorry corsets are not really an interest of mine. I only draft patterns for garments that I like and wear. For that reason I will also probably never put up instructions to draft a skirt. (I hate skirts! Dresses all the way!).
thanks so much for posting this updated version it's great and - I'm looking forward to giving it a go! Could I ask you how you determine whereabouts on the vertical line you put point G? I know you said to draw a line up from A to where it crosses the vertical line, but it could cross it at a number of points - did I miss something about the angle at which you draw it? Thanks for all your hard working doing this.
Hello Fiona, You are using your Across Shoulder Measurement. When you use that measurement and you measure from Point A, there is one specific place it can touch the F to F2 guideline. Only one place. That's where you put point G. In the video, the point where I placed point G was where the line measurement was the Shoulder Slope Measurement. If I raised where I put point G (even a tiny bit) on the F to F2 line, the resulting measurement will be longer than my Shoulder Slope. Likewise, if I lowered point G, the resulting measurement will shorter than my Shoulder Point. Again, there is only one specific point on that L to L2 line where you can possibly put point G, if you are using your Shoulder Slope measurement and measuring from point A. Hopefully it will make sense when you do it.
@@Dresspatternmaking , if i understood you corectrly, you have to draw a circle with a center poit p.A and radius the measured Shoulder Slope Front. Where the circle croses FF2 line, there will be point G?
Hi Maria , I have to take measurements with Bra or without, because some times the Bras have a cushion so big and the measurements can vary 4 cms. I´m 64 years old and my bust is fallen so that's the reason because I don´t know if I take it with or without Bra, another doubt is if I have a big back and little bust the measurements are almost the same in arc center bust, do I have to make changes to the bodie block or not. Thank you very much for your work which helps me too much. Sorry my English, I´m Mexican.
If you take measurements WITHOUT the padded bra, and then you make clothing that is fitted or semi-fitted, you may not be able to wear the padded bra with that clothing. So whatever you wear on a daily basis (bra, no bra, padded bra, lifting bra), is what you should wear when you take your measurements. If you have a variety of different bras (padded, not padded, lifting, not lifting), then you will need to choose one style for your block. You can always make adjustments to that block for other bra styles (lowering the bust level and the bust point for bras that do not lift). I generally wear bra that is quite lifting and I make clothes for that kind of bra. If I draft a semi-fitted dress and wear a bra that does not lift at all, then it doesn’t look as nice. Using your actually body arc measurements will get you a better fit. (You say ‘almost the same’ - if they are not the same, then they are not the same. Use the actual arc measurements).
In the metric version I give all measurements in cms, in the imperial version I give all measurements in inches. (In Australia and most of the rest of the world the metric system has been the sole legal unit of measurement since the 1970s. However, America did not adopt the metric system and If I did not provide another version using inches, most Americans would be unable to follow my instructions).
Hi, I have the same problem as few others, my waist dart is large, so O ends up been longer than N2, due to O being on a much greater angle. This being the case is should still match O2 to N2, correct?
Hello Natasha. I don't actually know what you mean by "O ends up being longer than N2". So the explanation I'm giving now if a bit a guess as to what you mean. Darts legs must match in length. The dart leg from the Bust Point to N2 will be a certain length. and you will draw the dart leg to match the first dart leg. Using the length (BP to N2), you start from the Bust Point and measure down through point O until you get that length. Then mark point O2.
Yes that is correct, 02 ends up a few cm shorter than 0, so I’ll have to adjust my waist line to get rid of some of the crazy angles! I’ll just fudge that part.
Hello Deborah, this is for woven fabric. A quick summary: (1) When drafting for stretch fabric, the industry standard is to create a Stretch Block which has the darts removed. (However, I tend to still use my Standard Block with darts, but I have only done minimal patternmaking for stretch, my preference so far has been woven fabric. I have some articles on my website regarding why I tend to use my standard block rather than a dartless block... dresspatternmaking.com/blog/stretch-basics-for-patternmaking-3-challenges-for-non-standard-figures (2) When drafting for Stretch, the ease is reduced as the stretch in the fabric increases (Stable, Moderate, Stretch & Super Stretch). I have a brief outline of the reductions of widths for the different amounts of stretch: dresspatternmaking.com/blog/reduction-in-width-for-stretch-blocks (3) With stretchwoven (usually around 17% stretch) , you do use your Standard (darted) Block, but remove the ease.
Quick question: when drafting the two dart block from the single dark block, I saw in your old written instructions, that you used different measurements from the under arm point for the side seam dart placement instead of cutting the bust line directly. Is that not necessary anymore with the new system? Or would it still result in a better fit to incorporate? If so, do I measure from the original under arm point? Thank you!
Hello Julia, in the old written instructions the placement of the darts were guides. When drafting your own block you mark where the bust line is on your own body, so it should be the correct placement rather than just a guess/guide (which would then need finessing).
Hi there, I would say you've made a mistake somewhere, either in taking the measurements or drafting. It's unlikely you have a negative shoulder slope (i.e. that your shoulder is higher than your high neck point). Check all the measurements, not just the one you are plotting - i.e. the Across Shoulder measurement - B~F etc.
@@StarFallCosplay The key measurements that make up your shoulder slope is A to B - Full Length Front, and B to F - Across Shoulder. When I said above that the mistake may be in either taking the measurements or drafting, a third mistake may be that you are confusing 2 measurements (e.g. using the CF measurement for A to B rather than the Full Length Front? The Full Length Front is from the High Neck Point down to the waist).
@@mariadelurdesrodrigues2585 Hello Maria - just to be sure... The length of the line J3 to L3 is your side seam length. That is the measurement you got from your body. The L2 point was a temporary point to help get the placement of the side seam line.
I've gone through all the steps a few times but each time get stuck at about 30:30, I can't pivot the side seam section to the waist line without the dart overlapping itself. I'm not exactly sure how to approach correcting this, can you help?
Hi Littlepix. So you mean that the left dart leg on the waist dart overlaps the right dart leg? Do you have a (proportionally) large waist? If not, then I think you've made a mistake somewhere. Remeasure your Bust Arcs - maybe your Front arc should be wider. The problem is that you could have made a mistake with either your measurements, or your calculations or the drafting. If you don't have a proportionally larger waist, then leave it for a week or so and come back to it fresh.
@@Dresspatternmaking Hi! Yes, I definitely have a proportionally larger waist. So shouId I make the bodice block with princess seams, to fully avoid this issue? Or is there a smarter solution ?
I use Illustrator, but II only use it to draft patterns for myself and graphics for tutorials. For people wanting to draft patterns to sell and need to do grading, dedicated patternmaking software would be better. There is an open source patternmaking software called Valentina (and/or Seamly 2D) that makes grading very easy.
Hi Maria Yes, that's true. I made a mistake. Should have been 1cm out. Chances are it's not going to make a huge difference. The thing is - you can see clearly where the ease is, and if you need more you know where to add it in, likewise if there's too much, you can take it out.
When you say 'J to L shoots off like a torpedo", look at 6:47 at the RHS. My pink block is superimposed onto Didi's. It is a 2-Dart Block so you have to imagine it as a 1-Dart block before the dart is manipulated. If the line from the underarm point J continues on from Point K2..... You can see that my side seam line is much more angled than Didi's. I am only a 'D' cup in patternmaking. For those who are E or F...etc. Their angle will be greater than mine. So... first thing is, it may be right. Other possibilities are that there is a mistake in the measurements taken or a mistake in the drafting. When you say 'it's impossible to make the dart legs the same length', I don't understand. You draw the first dart leg just past the waist. You then draw the second dart leg the same length. It may help to watch the Bodice Block Essential videos if you haven't already. Those videos shows how the side seam angle works with large bust cups.
@@Dresspatternmaking I've double checked everything and its still the same unfortunately. I am slim with a FF/G cup. It looks a bit like a wrap upper front piece looks, but out to the side. When using the calculations my second dart leg has to reach out further than the first out to meet the waist because of how far out L is from my body. I think a prof could figure it out, but its beyond me. I've been able to mod my existing block with some of the other info so all is well.
The second leg doesn't have to reach the waistline (i.e. the guideline extending from A to D ...) , it needs to be drawn the same length as the first leg. (The block is drafted as a flat 2D object, of course once it is sewn up into a 3D shape, the second dart leg will end up being at the waist...) So draw a guideline towards point O. Along that guideline, measure a dart leg the same length as the first....
@@larkkay Hello again, I have had this question asked a number of times and I find it very hard to explain it with just words. I will try very hard to find the time in the next few days to make a short 3-4 minute video showing how this works with my block. When i get that done I will post a link here to that video.
Thank you so much for all of your content Maria - it has been invaluable to me as a narrow torso with large bust figure. All of my front bodice drafts have ended up too short from full bust to waist , even when i triple checked my CF and FL front measurements - it’s just when the dart is closed for my moulage and toile , the shaping , which fits beautifully at bust , hikes the waistline up - easily fixed by adding 2cm to the lower edge of drafted block from CF through waist dart and blending to my measured side length at side seam .
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Here are links to the latest Bodice Block Instructions for use with this Sleeve:
Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version
ruclips.net/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/видео.html
Bodice Block Front - Metric Version
ruclips.net/video/2ubak0HM2HY/видео.html
Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version
ruclips.net/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/видео.html
Bodice Block Back - Metric Version
ruclips.net/video/aW4mRJNRke4/видео.html
I came a longggggggg way today following your Playlist of explanations. Thank you!
I totally got lost when you used Metric for the instruction for A to Z for the computer screen demonstration.
Redoing with CM to Inch later!
I don't draft online, but another RUclips Pattern Maker does. She said that the lower leg of
the Dart is usually longer. Add the difference to the horizontal dart leg, and that forms the dart tip!
Haven't tried it yet. Still folding paper.
Hello Momzilla, I have seen your comments on my other videos - thank you and welcome. No need to do the converting from cm to inches yourself - there is an Imperial version of this video - same title was with "Imperial Version" in the title.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks Maria, I found it in your Show Notes, which should have been the first place
I looked for it. I'll watch it now while taking easier notes. LOL
This is quite possibly the best bodice instructions I've found for a non standard shape like myself. Also I UNDERSTAND patterns thanks to your teaching. Thank you so much x
Thank you!
Thank you so much for all of your content Maria - it has been invaluable to me as a narrow torso with large bust figure. All of my front bodice drafts have ended up too short from full bust to waist , even when i triple checked my CF and FL front measurements - it’s just when the dart is closed for my modulage and toile , the shaping , which fits beautifully at bust , hikes the waistline up - easily fixed by adding 2cm to the lower edge of drafted block from CF through waist dart and blending to my measured side length at side seam .
Thank you, Maria. Good to see you back. 👍♥️
Thank you too!
Fantastic ❤. Thankyou
Thank you for such a complete and thoughtful way of explaining things ! I'm a total beginner and I've already learned so much after watching attentively three of your videos !!
Glad it was helpful!
Really appreciate your efforts... Please make a tutorial video on how to draft basic bodice for women having big belly or belly protrusion is more than the bust?
Este método es excelente. Estoy volviendo a retomar las medidas para hacer un moulage una vez más, ya que engordé 15 kilos y mis medidas han cambiado un poco, algunas disminuyeron curiosamente y otras aumentaron como era de esperar. Pero el método es infalible. Ahora que lo leo nuevamente, lo voy entendiendo mejor. Conviene medir la parte derecha e izquierda del cuerpo, porque tenemos asimetrías y algunas pueden ser significativas. El mejor método, no me arrepiento de haber comprado el PDF con las instrucciones, de las más claras que he leído.
Gracias Quimera, y buena suerte.
For me, the pleasure of wearing well-fitting clothes (after so many years and years of struggling to find anything that fit to any degree) is wonderful!
Thank you! This is such a valuable resource.
Glad you think so!
Def will make this. Thank you💕
You’re welcome 😊
Hola, gracias por el tutorial, es muy interesante ya que casi nadie te dice como hacer un patrón para las tallas con busto grande (he estado viendo los otros videos son muy buenos )...muchas gracias, también tengo una pregunta donde puedo descargar la lista para las medidas (Measurement list) ?me dice que la página ya no se encuentra ...Saludos
Hello Lina, I was making changes to my website so things were not working properly for a while.
You can download the measurement list from this page:
dresspatternmaking.com/videos/video-taking-measurements-to-draft-the-bodice-block/
Hi Maria
Thank you so much for this video!
I have hit a roadblock drafting my second dart leg. Point O2 doesn't reach point O at the waistline. I have remeasured several times with the same result.
Should I continue using point O instead of O2?
Thank you!
Hi Cora, the second dart leg needs to be the same length as the first one. Measure the first dart leg, then using that length, draw a line from the Dart Point through point O, so you end up with the measurement you want. At that point - where the dart leg is the length you need - mark point O2.
Thank you Maria.
I have been on this fitting journey for awhile now and really appreciate your expertise at getting my non standard body into a bodice that actually fits! 🙂
@@Dresspatternmaking Hi, so is it fine if the line from L to O2 points upwards instead of downwards? This is what happened to me because O2 didn't go past O but was behind it.
@@gabrielaschwendlervieira2529 - Hi Gabriela. I'm not sure what you mean by 'points upwards'. Measure from the Bust Point downwards in both cases. So measure FROM the BP to point N2 (= measurement x). Using measurement x, measure FROM the BP towards to Point O, and mark point O2. (It may help to first draw a guideline from the Bust Point to Point O.... measure along that line for measurement x and mark point O2)
@@Dresspatternmaking I am having the same issue. My measurement from the BP to N2 is 8.5 but the measurement from the BP to O is 9.5 so the dart measurement ends above point O and above the line from L to N2. this creates a funny little dog leg.
Hello ! when pivoting to form the 2 dart legs I end up with such a small dart at the bust and bigger at the waist. and if i try to make it proportional the tip of the side is one inches above the waist line
Well, I thought I was going great, wonderful instructions, a myriad of measurements, but something went horribly wrong🙃 For starters I have a 10cm difference between upper bust and full bust which has resulted in a very large dart area and a kind of acute side seam. So when we get to adding a second dart, the first one will close all the way and still not reach the the base line! Very confused. Any suggestions or thoughts? I am going to go back and revisit the whole thing as this is my first attempt.
Hi Teresa, I have close to a 10cm difference between my Upper Bust and my Bust. Have a look at my block at 6:15 on the video. On the RHS my block is superimposed on Didi's block - compare the side seam angles. Yes, my side seam angle is more extreme than Didi's. The fact that there is a 10cm difference isn't what is causing your problems. (If you haven't already watched my Bodice Block Essentials Video, particularly the Patternmaking Bust Cups vs Bra Bust Cups, I suggest you do so).
There are a lot of reasons that would result in this scenario; could be one mistake, or it could be a number of mistakes that compound upon each other. To give you one example of how this error could occur, using my block: if I 'made a mistake' in my side seam length (in either measurement or just making a mistake when drafting) and the side seam length I was using was 4cm shorter than my actual side-seam length, then the same thing would happen to me - my waist dart would close without the side seam reaching the waistline.
This is not to say this is what is happening with you, but this is one 'mistake' that could result in the error you are getting. However, there could another reason, or many other reasons. I suggest you start again fresh as sometimes when you go over the same version, you often miss the mistake or keep making the same mistake.
(Someone else asked this question on the Imperial version of this video and I gave a more detailed answer of the most likely measurement mistakes that could result in this. It is one of the comments near the top).
@@Dresspatternmaking Firstly, thank you Maria for responding. I went back to the beginning and yes, there were a couple of oversights. I am tallish, 1.71m but I feel short on the upper torso. My armhole depth seems very shallow. However, I now have a reasonable block pattern to commence with. Thank you again for the input. I have moved onto the back and oh my gosh. Covid weight and extra cms have me moving out of the initial oblong. I will address that with you on the next side.
Again, many thanks for your advice. Like most people, I have q
Please can you teach how to draft cosset from this patterns
Hello Harriet (?), sorry corsets are not really an interest of mine. I only draft patterns for garments that I like and wear. For that reason I will also probably never put up instructions to draft a skirt. (I hate skirts! Dresses all the way!).
thanks so much for posting this updated version it's great and - I'm looking forward to giving it a go! Could I ask you how you determine whereabouts on the vertical line you put point G? I know you said to draw a line up from A to where it crosses the vertical line, but it could cross it at a number of points - did I miss something about the angle at which you draw it? Thanks for all your hard working doing this.
Hello Fiona,
You are using your Across Shoulder Measurement. When you use that measurement and you measure from Point A, there is one specific place it can touch the F to F2 guideline. Only one place. That's where you put point G.
In the video, the point where I placed point G was where the line measurement was the Shoulder Slope Measurement. If I raised where I put point G (even a tiny bit) on the F to F2 line, the resulting measurement will be longer than my Shoulder Slope. Likewise, if I lowered point G, the resulting measurement will shorter than my Shoulder Point.
Again, there is only one specific point on that L to L2 line where you can possibly put point G, if you are using your Shoulder Slope measurement and measuring from point A.
Hopefully it will make sense when you do it.
@@Dresspatternmaking thank you so much for the explanation. I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me with this. Very best wishes to you.
Thank you so much! I had the same question but now this make sense.
@@Dresspatternmaking , if i understood you corectrly, you have to draw a circle with a center poit p.A and radius the measured Shoulder Slope Front. Where the circle croses FF2 line, there will be point G?
Hi Maria , I have to take measurements with Bra or without, because some times the Bras have a cushion so big and the measurements can vary 4 cms. I´m 64 years old and my bust is fallen so that's the reason because I don´t know if I take it with or without Bra, another doubt is if I have a big back and little bust the measurements are almost the same in arc center bust, do I have to make changes to the bodie block or not. Thank you very much for your work which helps me too much. Sorry my English, I´m Mexican.
If you take measurements WITHOUT the padded bra, and then you make clothing that is fitted or semi-fitted, you may not be able to wear the padded bra with that clothing. So whatever you wear on a daily basis (bra, no bra, padded bra, lifting bra), is what you should wear when you take your measurements. If you have a variety of different bras (padded, not padded, lifting, not lifting), then you will need to choose one style for your block. You can always make adjustments to that block for other bra styles (lowering the bust level and the bust point for bras that do not lift).
I generally wear bra that is quite lifting and I make clothes for that kind of bra. If I draft a semi-fitted dress and wear a bra that does not lift at all, then it doesn’t look as nice.
Using your actually body arc measurements will get you a better fit. (You say ‘almost the same’ - if they are not the same, then they are not the same. Use the actual arc measurements).
Por favor me explicas la diferencia entre corpiño métrico y corpiño imperial
In the metric version I give all measurements in cms, in the imperial version I give all measurements in inches. (In Australia and most of the rest of the world the metric system has been the sole legal unit of measurement since the 1970s. However, America did not adopt the metric system and If I did not provide another version using inches, most Americans would be unable to follow my instructions).
Hi, I have the same problem as few others, my waist dart is large, so O ends up been longer than N2, due to O being on a much greater angle. This being the case is should still match O2 to N2, correct?
Hello Natasha. I don't actually know what you mean by "O ends up being longer than N2". So the explanation I'm giving now if a bit a guess as to what you mean.
Darts legs must match in length. The dart leg from the Bust Point to N2 will be a certain length. and you will draw the dart leg to match the first dart leg. Using the length (BP to N2), you start from the Bust Point and measure down through point O until you get that length. Then mark point O2.
Yes that is correct, 02 ends up a few cm shorter than 0, so I’ll have to adjust my waist line to get rid of some of the crazy angles! I’ll just fudge that part.
In your example 02 ended up longer than 0, but not by much.
Can your patterns be done with stretch fabrics? How would one modify them for this type of fabric?
Hello Deborah, this is for woven fabric.
A quick summary:
(1) When drafting for stretch fabric, the industry standard is to create a Stretch Block which has the darts removed.
(However, I tend to still use my Standard Block with darts, but I have only done minimal patternmaking for stretch, my preference so far has been woven fabric. I have some articles on my website regarding why I tend to use my standard block rather than a dartless block... dresspatternmaking.com/blog/stretch-basics-for-patternmaking-3-challenges-for-non-standard-figures
(2) When drafting for Stretch, the ease is reduced as the stretch in the fabric increases (Stable, Moderate, Stretch & Super Stretch). I have a brief outline of the reductions of widths for the different amounts of stretch: dresspatternmaking.com/blog/reduction-in-width-for-stretch-blocks
(3) With stretchwoven (usually around 17% stretch) , you do use your Standard (darted) Block, but remove the ease.
Quick question: when drafting the two dart block from the single dark block, I saw in your old written instructions, that you used different measurements from the under arm point for the side seam dart placement instead of cutting the bust line directly. Is that not necessary anymore with the new system? Or would it still result in a better fit to incorporate? If so, do I measure from the original under arm point? Thank you!
Hello Julia, in the old written instructions the placement of the darts were guides. When drafting your own block you mark where the bust line is on your own body, so it should be the correct placement rather than just a guess/guide (which would then need finessing).
Having some trouble with mine, what if our AG measurement is longer than our AB measurement and goes off the paper???
Hi there, I would say you've made a mistake somewhere, either in taking the measurements or drafting. It's unlikely you have a negative shoulder slope (i.e. that your shoulder is higher than your high neck point). Check all the measurements, not just the one you are plotting - i.e. the Across Shoulder measurement - B~F etc.
@@Dresspatternmaking I don't think it's the measurements as we've remeasured 5 times. I'll test the math out a few more times and see what happens
I am having this issue also. Did you win in the end?
@@StarFallCosplay The key measurements that make up your shoulder slope is A to B - Full Length Front, and B to F - Across Shoulder. When I said above that the mistake may be in either taking the measurements or drafting, a third mistake may be that you are confusing 2 measurements (e.g. using the CF measurement for A to B rather than the Full Length Front? The Full Length Front is from the High Neck Point down to the waist).
I don't understand, Maria, why go down from L2 to L3? Will my waistline go down?
Sorry Mary. I think I got it.
@@mariadelurdesrodrigues2585 Hello Maria - just to be sure... The length of the line J3 to L3 is your side seam length. That is the measurement you got from your body. The L2 point was a temporary point to help get the placement of the side seam line.
I've gone through all the steps a few times but each time get stuck at about 30:30, I can't pivot the side seam section to the waist line without the dart overlapping itself. I'm not exactly sure how to approach correcting this, can you help?
Hi Littlepix.
So you mean that the left dart leg on the waist dart overlaps the right dart leg? Do you have a (proportionally) large waist? If not, then I think you've made a mistake somewhere. Remeasure your Bust Arcs - maybe your Front arc should be wider. The problem is that you could have made a mistake with either your measurements, or your calculations or the drafting.
If you don't have a proportionally larger waist, then leave it for a week or so and come back to it fresh.
@@Dresspatternmaking Hi!
Yes, I definitely have a proportionally larger waist. So shouId I make the bodice block with princess seams, to fully avoid this issue? Or is there a smarter solution ?
@@littlepix101 I have the same issue. I'm stuck 😓
looks like you are using a computerized system, may ask which one is it?
I use Illustrator, but II only use it to draft patterns for myself and graphics for tutorials. For people wanting to draft patterns to sell and need to do grading, dedicated patternmaking software would be better. There is an open source patternmaking software called Valentina (and/or Seamly 2D) that makes grading very easy.
Sorry. Help me, please.
Why is "out 0.5cm upper bust ease"? Didn't Maria say it's " 1cm front (total 2 cm)" to upper bust ease for sleeved Block?
Hi Maria
Yes, that's true. I made a mistake. Should have been 1cm out. Chances are it's not going to make a huge difference. The thing is - you can see clearly where the ease is, and if you need more you know where to add it in, likewise if there's too much, you can take it out.
@@Dresspatternmaking I am impressed with your work and dedication. Cheers.
It all went wrong from J to L. the bodice side shoots out like a torpedo and theres no way to make the dart legs the same length.
When you say 'J to L shoots off like a torpedo", look at 6:47 at the RHS. My pink block is superimposed onto Didi's. It is a 2-Dart Block so you have to imagine it as a 1-Dart block before the dart is manipulated. If the line from the underarm point J continues on from Point K2..... You can see that my side seam line is much more angled than Didi's. I am only a 'D' cup in patternmaking. For those who are E or F...etc. Their angle will be greater than mine. So... first thing is, it may be right. Other possibilities are that there is a mistake in the measurements taken or a mistake in the drafting.
When you say 'it's impossible to make the dart legs the same length', I don't understand. You draw the first dart leg just past the waist. You then draw the second dart leg the same length.
It may help to watch the Bodice Block Essential videos if you haven't already. Those videos shows how the side seam angle works with large bust cups.
@@Dresspatternmaking I've double checked everything and its still the same unfortunately. I am slim with a FF/G cup. It looks a bit like a wrap upper front piece looks, but out to the side. When using the calculations my second dart leg has to reach out further than the first out to meet the waist because of how far out L is from my body. I think a prof could figure it out, but its beyond me. I've been able to mod my existing block with some of the other info so all is well.
The second leg doesn't have to reach the waistline (i.e. the guideline extending from A to D ...) , it needs to be drawn the same length as the first leg. (The block is drafted as a flat 2D object, of course once it is sewn up into a 3D shape, the second dart leg will end up being at the waist...)
So draw a guideline towards point O. Along that guideline, measure a dart leg the same length as the first....
@@larkkay Hello again, I have had this question asked a number of times and I find it very hard to explain it with just words. I will try very hard to find the time in the next few days to make a short 3-4 minute video showing how this works with my block. When i get that done I will post a link here to that video.
Thank you so much for all of your content Maria - it has been invaluable to me as a narrow torso with large bust figure. All of my front bodice drafts have ended up too short from full bust to waist , even when i triple checked my CF and FL front measurements - it’s just when the dart is closed for my moulage and toile , the shaping , which fits beautifully at bust , hikes the waistline up - easily fixed by adding 2cm to the lower edge of drafted block from CF through waist dart and blending to my measured side length at side seam .