Here are links to the latest Bodice Block Instructions for use with this Sleeve: Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version ruclips.net/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/видео.html Bodice Block Front - Metric Version ruclips.net/video/2ubak0HM2HY/видео.html Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version ruclips.net/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/видео.html Bodice Block Back - Metric Version ruclips.net/video/aW4mRJNRke4/видео.html
After a few failures and frustrating results from different tutorials, I have come across this video. I have finished the tutorial and have just tested our the resulting sleeve with a bodice I created it for - it fits perfect. I really like that you discuss multiple problems than non-typical bodies can come across, and not just suggested solutions, but also what causes them. It helped me understand not just how to make a sleeve pattern, but also why the sleeve looks and works the way it does. It also help me come up with my own solutions to adapting the sleeve to fit what I need. This is exactly how a lesson should be :) I also removed the dart completely - just ignored it. Thank you very much for this!
Hi. Thank you for your excellent tutorial of drafting the basic sleeves , I am very excited to find your channel which I have been searching for. It really can help me to solve my problem on the sleeve part . I can not wait to start following your introduction , in order to finish my dress ! Thank you !
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I hope to have a few new vidoes up shortly. After the final Pants Video (which is another long video), I plan on doing shorter ones covering a bit o theory. That means I can post video more often.
When measuring the sleeve-bodice block back & front armholes, 1/4 inch ease is added to both the back & front measurements in order to establish point G. Then later on when comparing the measurements from the draft sleeve block cap curve to the sleeve-bodice block back & front armholes, I assume we are to use the sleeve-bodice block measurements without that added ease. Just wanting you to confirm as that 1/2 inch of ease could be significant one way or another. Thanks!
No, sorry I don’t. Originally I made them all using imperial measurements. When I revised my bodice instructions I made them in both imperial and metric, but I never did make a metric version.
Great information - thank you for this tutorial. Was wondering if one makes a shorter sleeve cap (example: a 4" cap height instead of average 5"), would you have to lengthen the sleeve (from underarm to wrist to make up the correct total length? Or do you extend the shoulder width of the bodice to accommodate? as you can tell I am very unclear about this process. Thank you for any guidance you may share.
Hi Dianne, assuming you want a full-length sleeve, then you do use the measurement from the shoulder tip to the wrist. If you make the cap shorter, you would make the length below the cap longer to maintain that length. I have 3 articles on my website on Understanding the Sleeve you may useful, starting here: www.dresspatternmaking.com/blog/understanding-the-sleeve-part-1 (parts 2 & 3 are available from the menu) I hope eventually to make it into a video, but that's not likely to be for a while.
When drafting the sleeve cap 14:12 , is it from G to H? Or from J to H after we insert our cap height measurement onto the pattern? I'm not entirely clear as to whether or not J is supposed to replace g or it's only there for that one insertion (cap height from bicep line).
Hi, thanks a lot for this video! I just had a question... the armhole measurements used here are the front and back armhole depth measurements which were used for the front and back bodice right? Measured from the shoulder point to the upper bust line on the “across shoulder” line? Was getting confused and wanted to make sure
Hi Eveena, sorry I missed this comment yesterday... If you are referring to the front and back armhole measurements needed draft the sleeve - it's the measurement of the actual curve of the armhole, not just the depth. So if you go to 3:08 minutes of this video - the blue and orange arrows show the measurements needed. Walk a tape measure around the curve (within the inside of the curve). If that's not what you meant, please back to me.... Cheers, Maria.
Hi Maria, that's exactly what I meant, sorry if I wasn't clear. And thanks a lot for clearing my doubt, I've got it now. Really appreciate you taking the time to reply!!
HI Gabriela. The Standard Block (i.e. the block to be used with Sleeves). Note: I put up this video around the same time (2020) as I put up my original Bodice Instructions - those instructions did not include a moulage or the sleeveless block. Nevertheless, you draft the Sleeve Block for the Bodice Block where the ease is added for sleeves.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you Maria! Just one more question: when adding ease to the bent elbow measurement (line M-N) you said the elbow ease is dependent on the ease added to the bicep. Does that mean the ease added for the E-F line (in my case it was 2") or the amount of ease that actually ended up on the bicep due to my cap height? Although I added 2" to the bicep it ended up with more ease after measuring the back/front arm measurements from J. Thank you!
Hi Wendy, Just continue the straight line that goes from the underarm to the elbow. The length of the line should match the other underarm seamline that doesn't have a dart. (Both of course should be the sleeve length).
Please solve my query that.. i don't know how to explain my question 🤔 After attaching the cap to the bodice, how would we sew the side seam of the sleeves because centre of the sleeves is not the centre of the cap? Would it sew nicely?
Hello Seek The Light. If you are referring to (for example) having your shoulder point further forward due to the back armhole being larger than the front, this will not affect sewing up the seams of the sleeve. You are just redistributing the amount of fabric in the sleeve curve to match the reality of the armhole measurements. (i.e. If your back armhole is much bigger than your front, and you sew the sleeve with the exact middle on the shoulder, it will be harder to sew it nicely; there will be too much sleeve fabric in the front armhole, and too little in the back). Hope this makes sense. I find it hard to describe without images.
@@Dresspatternmaking you have explained it well without picture. 🙂 i have tried your method and my front and back armhole total measured 17.75 and my sleeve curve was 1.5 inches larger than armhole which is perfect ease. But somehow I am unable to adjust that extra 1.5inches into the armhole. How am I going to use that ease? 🙁
Hello Ummu The arm does not hang straight down. The dart curves the sleeve around to mimic how the arm hangs in relation to the body. Of course you can remove the dart, and in sleeves where there is a lot of ease (e.g. bell sleeve) it is not needed (or if you don't want it for any other reason). It is standard practice to draft the sleeve block with an elbow dart.
Here are links to the latest Bodice Block Instructions for use with this Sleeve:
Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version
ruclips.net/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/видео.html
Bodice Block Front - Metric Version
ruclips.net/video/2ubak0HM2HY/видео.html
Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version
ruclips.net/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/видео.html
Bodice Block Back - Metric Version
ruclips.net/video/aW4mRJNRke4/видео.html
After a few failures and frustrating results from different tutorials, I have come across this video. I have finished the tutorial and have just tested our the resulting sleeve with a bodice I created it for - it fits perfect.
I really like that you discuss multiple problems than non-typical bodies can come across, and not just suggested solutions, but also what causes them. It helped me understand not just how to make a sleeve pattern, but also why the sleeve looks and works the way it does. It also help me come up with my own solutions to adapting the sleeve to fit what I need. This is exactly how a lesson should be :)
I also removed the dart completely - just ignored it.
Thank you very much for this!
"Designing clothes that suit your body." Very good advice. Thank you so much for your videos. They are excellent.
Thank you so very much for guiding me through designing the bodice and sleeve. It was a pleasure following your instructions.
I appreciate the appreciation!
I got to the end and loving your book the fit of the moulage 🎉
Hi. Thank you for your excellent tutorial of drafting the basic sleeves , I am very excited to find your channel which I have been searching for. It really can help me to solve my problem on the sleeve part . I can not wait to start following your introduction , in order to finish my dress ! Thank you !
Thank you for sharing your precious knowledge with us!
Thank you. Your instructions are incredible!
Thank you so much for making such a clear and concise tutorial. Extremely helpful ! I love all your tutorials and your website. Learning so much.
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I hope to have a few new vidoes up shortly. After the final Pants Video (which is another long video), I plan on doing shorter ones covering a bit o theory. That means I can post video more often.
When measuring the sleeve-bodice block back & front armholes, 1/4 inch ease is added to both the back & front measurements in order to establish point G. Then later on when comparing the measurements from the draft sleeve block cap curve to the sleeve-bodice block back & front armholes, I assume we are to use the sleeve-bodice block measurements without that added ease. Just wanting you to confirm as that 1/2 inch of ease could be significant one way or another. Thanks!
Hi Maria , your videos are so helpfull , thank you 💕 so much😊
I was wondering if you have this tutorial in the metric version on your channel ?
No, sorry I don’t. Originally I made them all using imperial measurements. When I revised my bodice instructions I made them in both imperial and metric, but I never did make a metric version.
Thank you very much!
You're welcome!
Great information - thank you for this tutorial. Was wondering if one makes a shorter sleeve cap (example: a 4" cap height instead of average 5"), would you have to lengthen the sleeve (from underarm to wrist to make up the correct total length? Or do you extend the shoulder width of the bodice to accommodate? as you can tell I am very unclear about this process. Thank you for any guidance you may share.
Hi Dianne, assuming you want a full-length sleeve, then you do use the measurement from the shoulder tip to the wrist. If you make the cap shorter, you would make the length below the cap longer to maintain that length. I have 3 articles on my website on Understanding the Sleeve you may useful, starting here:
www.dresspatternmaking.com/blog/understanding-the-sleeve-part-1
(parts 2 & 3 are available from the menu)
I hope eventually to make it into a video, but that's not likely to be for a while.
wow this is good!
Than you!
When drafting the sleeve cap 14:12 , is it from G to H? Or from J to H after we insert our cap height measurement onto the pattern? I'm not entirely clear as to whether or not J is supposed to replace g or it's only there for that one insertion (cap height from bicep line).
At 10:53 you indicate that the cap height is from C to J. Why do we go back to measure the front and back armscye from G instead of J?
Hi, thanks a lot for this video! I just had a question... the armhole measurements used here are the front and back armhole depth measurements which were used for the front and back bodice right? Measured from the shoulder point to the upper bust line on the “across shoulder” line? Was getting confused and wanted to make sure
Hi Eveena, sorry I missed this comment yesterday...
If you are referring to the front and back armhole measurements needed draft the sleeve - it's the measurement of the actual curve of the armhole, not just the depth. So if you go to 3:08 minutes of this video - the blue and orange arrows show the measurements needed. Walk a tape measure around the curve (within the inside of the curve).
If that's not what you meant, please back to me.... Cheers, Maria.
Hi Maria, that's exactly what I meant, sorry if I wasn't clear. And thanks a lot for clearing my doubt, I've got it now. Really appreciate you taking the time to reply!!
@@evasupremo No worries, you're welcome.
Hi, is the front and back armhole measurement based on the sleeve block or the moulage?
HI Gabriela. The Standard Block (i.e. the block to be used with Sleeves).
Note: I put up this video around the same time (2020) as I put up my original Bodice Instructions - those instructions did not include a moulage or the sleeveless block. Nevertheless, you draft the Sleeve Block for the Bodice Block where the ease is added for sleeves.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you Maria! Just one more question: when adding ease to the bent elbow measurement (line M-N) you said the elbow ease is dependent on the ease added to the bicep. Does that mean the ease added for the E-F line (in my case it was 2") or the amount of ease that actually ended up on the bicep due to my cap height? Although I added 2" to the bicep it ended up with more ease after measuring the back/front arm measurements from J. Thank you!
What do you do to remove the dart altogether 🤗
Hi Wendy, Just continue the straight line that goes from the underarm to the elbow. The length of the line should match the other underarm seamline that doesn't have a dart. (Both of course should be the sleeve length).
Please solve my query that.. i don't know how to explain my question 🤔
After attaching the cap to the bodice, how would we sew the side seam of the sleeves because centre of the sleeves is not the centre of the cap? Would it sew nicely?
Hello Seek The Light. If you are referring to (for example) having your shoulder point further forward due to the back armhole being larger than the front, this will not affect sewing up the seams of the sleeve. You are just redistributing the amount of fabric in the sleeve curve to match the reality of the armhole measurements. (i.e. If your back armhole is much bigger than your front, and you sew the sleeve with the exact middle on the shoulder, it will be harder to sew it nicely; there will be too much sleeve fabric in the front armhole, and too little in the back). Hope this makes sense. I find it hard to describe without images.
@@Dresspatternmaking you have explained it well without picture. 🙂 i have tried your method and my front and back armhole total measured 17.75 and my sleeve curve was 1.5 inches larger than armhole which is perfect ease. But somehow I am unable to adjust that extra 1.5inches into the armhole. How am I going to use that ease? 🙁
Thank you for this explanation
Why do we need a dart on the elbow?
Hello Ummu
The arm does not hang straight down. The dart curves the sleeve around to mimic how the arm hangs in relation to the body. Of course you can remove the dart, and in sleeves where there is a lot of ease (e.g. bell sleeve) it is not needed (or if you don't want it for any other reason). It is standard practice to draft the sleeve block with an elbow dart.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks for your prompt answer. By the way do you have your bodice block drafting step-by-step instruction in PDF ? Thank you
@@ummuaida1856 - Hi again. I have written instructions on my website, but no PDF.
Ok, thank you.