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Taking Measurements to Draft the Bodice Block
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- How to take the measurements to draft the Bodice Block using my new improved system. (Those instructions will be out in a few weeks' time). Part 6 of the Bodice Block Essentials. Learn patternmaking in detail.
Here is the link to download the Measurement Chart:
www.dresspatternmaking.com/vi...
Booklets: Bodice & Pants
Link to my Ko-Fi shop where you can buy my instruction booklets:
ko-fi.com/mariadresspatternma...
My website:
www.dresspatternmaking.com
Link to my books on Google Play:
Pants Metric
play.google.com/store/books/d...
Pants Imperial
play.google.com/store/books/d...
Bodice Metric
play.google.com/store/books/d...
Bodice Imperial
play.google.com/store/books/d...
Thank you for the amazing detail that you put into making this video. Timestamps below for any that want to jump straight to a specific measurement.
1. 3:26 Upper Bust
2. 9:10 Upper Bust Arc Front
3. 14:16 Upper Bust Arc back
4. 14:33 Bust Circumference
5. 14:51 Bust Arc Front
6. 15:38 Bust Arc Back
7. 16:09 Waist
8. 16:29 Shoulder Length
9. 17:30 Side length
10. 17:58 Full Length Front
11. 18:16 Center Front Length
12. 18:42 Across shoulder Front
13. 19:55 Shoulder slope Front
14. 20:18 Bust Depth (A)
15. 20:48 Bust Depth (B)
16. 21:09 Bust Depth (C)
17. 21:18 Bust Depth at Side Seam
18. 21:37 Bust span
19. 21:51 Front Armhole Depth (A)
20. 21:59 Front Armhole Depth (B)
21. 22:08 Front Armhole Depth (C)
22. 22:27 Across chest
23. 23:38 Full length back
24. 24:06 Center Back length
25. 24:23 Across shoulder back
26. 24:41 Shoulder slope back
27. 25:07 Back Armhole Depth (A)
28. 25:30 Back Armhole Depth (B)
29. 25:35 Back Armhole Depth (C)
30. 25:44 Back neck
31. 26:24 Across back
32. 26:37 Back Dart Placement
Thank you...
You deserve more than a cup of tea❤️❤️❤️ thank you so much for the time energy and passion you have invested into this
Your instructions are so delightfully perfect I could hug you 😊 I have been drafting for many years and used numerous methods but many of them don't produce the results I want. You have surpassed them all. Your knowledge will help so many master this art. Thank you. I've just purchased your ebook and am grateful for all your efforts.
Really EXCELLENT! Thank you so much for this, tremendously helpful~!
Thank you so much for these videos..they are clear and wonderfully comprehensive. I have struggled with fit for a long time. These videos will make a big and positive difference. Thank you 😊
Your clarity is outstanding. Thank you for being very specific and very easy to understand.
You are so welcome
I am old but still have the desire to be able to draft my patterns to fit me. Your video instructions should help me accomplish that goal.
Hugs to you.
My english is terrible but I want to say that your channel is amazing and you deserve millions of subscribers ! Thank you very much !
Hi HarujukoHoshi
Sumimasen, domou-arigatoo-gozaimashita. Thanks for your vote of confidence! (And your English was perfect in that sentence).
loved the vid 🥰 you don't have dinner lady arms silly!! we are all beautiful in our own way 🥰 🥰
I very much do have tuck shop lady arms, but given that I'll be 60 next year I think it's an unavoidable part of ageing. But thank you for your support!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience 🙏
You are most welcome, Mukesh.
Excellent videos, thank you. I will be buying your book.
Thank you so much for the video tutorial .
Thank you so so much for all of your great materials!
You are so welcome!
Hi Maria thank you for your wonderful work!
I just bought your book.
Greetings and hugs from Italy 😍😍😍
Hello Marzia
Thanks for the positive feedback and for taking the time to comment.
Hope you have a great Christmas.
Cheers
Maria
Outstanding! Thank you.
You're the best!
Thank you for all the information you've put out. Your website is a huge resource and these videos help so much!
You are very welcome.
First like
First view
Am here before 1000 subscribers
Thanks for the videos
Thank you.
You are fantastic
Hey Maria, first your instructions are so detailed! Thank you thank you for taking all this time! I did have one question - when measuring the upper bust, if you have some bulge of tissue between your bust and your armpit, (thanks for this, body) should should take the UB measure over that bulge or beneath it? I ask because it makes a significant difference in my measurement, but taking it over that tissue makes my upper bust measure larger than my full bust. ( Wide back, wide breast root, low volume cup - again, thanks for this, body)
സൂപ്പർ വളരെ നന്നായിട്ടുണ്ട് ട്യൂട്ടോറിയൽ പ്രശംസിക്കുന്നു i am from Kerala India
Thank you. Google translate is wonderful, I could find out what you said!
Hi Maria, thank you very very much for all your videos! A wealth of information, and finally answering some questions I had which lacked in so many resources.
I have a short torso, large Bra cup (F UK) but small bust-cup (89cm bust 86cm upper bust). Am i measuring wrong, is this a 'normal' disparity? And would it be accounted for in your method?
In addition, I'm wondering when i take the Full front length or shoulder slope front measurements - should i be contouring the curves of my bust/body with the tape measure? Or measure more straight and over the top? Its hard for me to understand on Didi as she doesn't have a pronounced bust.
Hope my questions make sense. Many thanks again - I'll send you a KoFi🙂
Hi Maria, thanks for all your vidéos ! I've finally found a system that makes sense to me ! Thanks a lot ! Have you please the file pdf "bodice metric instructions" in french version ?
I am getting ready to draft my bodice block and am binge watching all your videos. Thank you for your very detailed explanations of what you do and why. I am not finding you KoFee link, and I would very much like to support you here. Is the link somewhere I can’t see it?
I have never seen a video so detailed. Thank you. However, I have a question is there a formula one can use to calculate upper bust without taking the measurements. Thank you.
Holy !! Too many measurements ...haha...Thank you - very detailed explanation.
Thank you for this very complete video !
I have a small question : in a previous video you said that your measurement of the upperbust could change when your breathe deeply. Which measurement do you keep ?
Hello Aiki, use the smaller measurement to draft the block. The point I was making is that we do need ease in the Upper Bust; we need about 3 inches for a Sleeveless Block, and 4 inches when adding Sleeves. Some people seem to think 3 inches is a lot of ease, but your Upper Bust may increase 3 inches when you a deep breath.
(The reason some people may think 3 inches ease is a lot is that they are told that 2 inches ease is the standard amount of ease for a Sleeves Block and 1 inch for a Sleeves Block, but this is ease in the Bust, not the Upper Bust).
Thanks !
Ver-y interestingly, Maria, the body has a way of guiding us to get the upper chest, etc positions, exactly.
I have applied my knowledge of acupuncture.
It works perfectly.
Even in the point the upper line that gets into the mid Shoulder, does.
Thank you, how can I make it into centimetres
What brand and cost is Didi mannequin?
Maria, when I take my different check measurements for bust depth and armhole depth, I have different measurements. Is that OK or have I done something wrong? Should they be the same for each check measurement?
Hi KT
Sorry for the delay in responding, I haven't been well...
You Upper Bust Depth should be the same as your Front Armhole Depth... You have said above 'bust depth'... not sure if that is mistake?
Hi Maria - Thank you so much for such a detailed and easy to follow tutorial. I know its been a few years since publication, but I just found this and have a question. No matter how many times we measure, my Bust Depth is not the same A-B-C. (Bust depth A is 31.8cm, B is 24.1cm, and C is 34.3cm) What am I doing wrong/how should I fix this? Thanks again!!
Hello Krista(?). The 3 measurements, taken on the body, will not (and cannot) be the same. Only one (A) is used to draft the bodice. The other 2 are used after the fact for checking that you are on the right track. After drafting the block, check your body measurements for the other 2 against what appears on your finished block. If you check B and C against the final block and they don't match, this shows that you need to go back and check your drafting/calculations/measurements before making up the toile.
You could just ignore this suggestion and just measure (A). I can go into too much detail sometimes, do too much checking.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you! That makes so much more sense!
Hi Maria, thank you very much for your videos. They make so much sense. I am about to draw my fist block. I have one question: if you are working with arcs on upper back and bust, why not apply the same method to the waist measurement? I guess this would allow for better waist darts calculation and possibly less adjustments. Or I doesn’t really matter?
Best regards
Magda
Hello Magda. The reason that the Bust Arcs are so important is that you need them to get the correct bust angle for the (patternmaking) bust cup. I explain it in detail throughout the Bodice Block Essential videos. The waist is not that important - it's not like you will get a bad fit if you divide the waist evently (Though if you really want to use the waist arcs, you can.... Truth be told, it might be better, but as it wasn't essential I didn't want to make it that much more complicated).
Regarding the Bust Arcs:
When I first created my system based on the Upper Bust, I did just divide the Upper Bust and the Bust evenly. I had a number of women asking me what they were supposed to do since their Upper Bust and Bust measurement was the same, yet they had a (bra) bust -cup. Using that original system, they would not get any bust shaping at all, which was obviously incorrect, which is why I revised the system to include the bust arcs. I found when I redid the system to include the Bust Arcs, not only did I solve their problem(women with a large upper bust), but when I redrafted my block, my personal fit went from 'quite a good fit' (much better than ready-to-wear), to an excellent fit. It makes all the difference to a really good fit!!
So... the Bust Arcs are ESSENTIAL to get a good fit in the Bust. Waist arcs are not essential - you use them if you wish.
I have been struggling with this also. You went into detail about where to put the side seam (based on the well fitting bra). So I did this, and placed my side seam accordingly. This did not intersect at points where my waist was divided evenly. Upon drafting, the instructions are to divide the waist by 4 to get the intersecting point for the side seam. If I was to do this, I would end up with a slanted side seam. I think that this will cause the moulage to have errors, if one does not choose the side seam location that ends at even waist intervals. So to avoid confusion, I would think the video should mention that if your side seam does not end at even waist intervals, that you would need to use waist arcs. I ended up doing it over using waist arcs, because otherwise my side seam would be on my underwire very far to the beginning of the armhole. I understand the amending the video is not an option, so maybe if in the future you do another version, you could include something on this. Thanks for all your great work!
hi maria. should the total measurements of the upper bust arcs be more than or less than the full circumference?
The front and the back arcs should equal the full measurement. This applies to both the Upper Bust and the Bust.
Thank you so much for this detailed measuring video Maria. I have bought your e-book on drafting the bodice and am enjoying the process thoroughly BUT it would be REALLY helpful if you could please include Dee Dee's full measurement chart as an example to follow, particularly with those measurements for checking purposes as it was not clear to me whether when measuring these should be the same or to check when drafting. I could not get these to tally to each other when measuring my daughter and then when I started drafting realized they are not the same. I have to redo her measurements as a result so having reference measurements would have helped my lame brain.
Hi Jennifer, I'll try to do that sometime, but sorry, it won't be for a couple of weeks...
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks so much would be truly useful
Hi, I bought your pdf book for bodice block, but want to practise on mannequin..do I glue the tape from point to point and leave "empty" space beneath, or do I glue it on the surface of mannequin (on the skin)?
Example, green line from shoulder point to waist...it will be "longer" if glued to skin, shorter if left just touching shoulder and breast and waist. I hope you get what I ask. Thank you.
Point to point, not glued to skin.
When drafting clothes where you want the garment to be really fitted, you do contouring. I have a video on Contouring.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you.
Me ha encantado este video, lo malo es que no entiendo inglés.
How do you adjust for a petite frame 5’1” with a 44” bust upper bust 37” front neck to waist 15 and over bust is 19” long?
Hello Sew Creative, I am unsure what you mean by 'how to adjust'. Have you tried drafting the block and had particular problems? If so where do you start having issues, and what are those issues? If you have difficulties and want to know how to proceed, upload a photo of the block you are drafting to the comments section of the Bodice Block pages on my website and I will have a look. Make sure the photo is very clear and include some kind of measurement reference.
@@Dresspatternmaking thank you for the reply. I purchased a bodice block from your website for sewing a new larger partial bodice on a wedding dress. I will work with the block and get back to you if I have any questions.
@@Dresspatternmaking thank you for the reply. I purchased a bodice block from your website for sewing a new larger partial bodice on a wedding dress. I will work with the block and get back to you if I have any questions.
Do we need to measure with structured or padded undergarment on? OR without them?
In general, measure while wearing the undergarments you plan to wear with the garment you plan to make.
@@calliefulmer9112 thank you for helping 👍🏼
Hi, measurement no. 21 Front Armhole Depth C.The slide has arrows pointing to the full bust elastic line on Didi and not on the block on the right, but your written instruction and voice say to measure to the Upper bust elastic line. Am I to assume this is just an image error and the upper bust is the correct line? Thank you
Hello Debbie, yes you are right. On the left hand side it points to the bust line instead of the Upper Bust (Armhole) line. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. When/If I ever get the time to redo that video I will change that.
Should you wear a bra when taking measurements for a moulage?
If you plan on wearing a bra when you make/wear the clothes that you draft with your block, then yes.