DIY Pattern Drafting Metric 👗📐 | Make your own Perfect Fit Bodice Block Sloper

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  • Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
  • Draft your own perfect fit bodice block sloper to your measurements. 👗📐These metric drafting instructions are an amalgamation of several different drafting methods which together are designed to give you the perfect fit with minimal fitting alterations. I will go through taking your own measurements and the algebraic drafting process - don't worry - I've calculated all the formulas for you! Link to spreadsheet below ▼ click File → Make a copy. This will save a version of this file to your Google Drive and you will then be able to make edits without affecting the master.
    → Links ←
    Written instructions: byilona.co.uk/?p=1644
    Formulas: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
    Ruler: byilona.co.uk/product/simplif...
    → Follow me ←
    Instagram: @byilonamillinery
    Patreon: / byilonamillinery
    Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/byilonamillinery
    Website: byilona.co.uk
    depop: depop.com/byilonamillinery/
    → Books ←
    Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear 6th edition by Winifred Aldrich (2015)
    Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina
    → Chapters ←
    00:00 - Introduction
    01:08 - Taking Measurements
    10:18 - Tools & Materials
    12:50 - Drafting
    22:58 - Toile/mockup
    27:06 - Fit Alterations
    29:38 - Pattern Guides
    → Music ←
    With a Stamp by Twin Musicom is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 licence. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
    Artist: www.twinmusicom.org/
    #sewing #patternmaking #clothes
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Комментарии • 83

  • @ByIlonaMillinery
    @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад +5

    Link to spreadsheet below ▼ click File → Make a copy. This will save a version of this file to your Google Drive and you will then be able to make edits without affecting the master.
    → Links ←
    Written instructions: byilona.co.uk/?p=1644
    Formulas: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mbO3qYslg2DYgL-sO44soH7mQkKOX2pn/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=114743988625500617205&rtpof=true&sd=true
    Ruler: byilona.co.uk/product/simplif...

    • @cathrinamulligan1077
      @cathrinamulligan1077 11 месяцев назад

      Do you have instructions for pear shaped please?

    • @LynnHermione
      @LynnHermione 11 месяцев назад

      the links are broken :(

    • @nazrinjahan4628
      @nazrinjahan4628 11 месяцев назад

      Link is not working 😢

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  11 месяцев назад

      Hi Lynn, thanks for pointing this out. I have updated the links, they should now work.

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  11 месяцев назад

      Hi Nazrin, thanks for pointing this out. I have updated the links, they should now work.

  • @artbymurielle
    @artbymurielle 10 дней назад +1

    I love how you demonstrate how you take the measurements. Never seen such a detailed tutorial. Thank you.

  • @bonniebrown1566
    @bonniebrown1566 Год назад +34

    This was the absolute BEST patterning tutorial I’ve ever seen. And I’m an experienced seamstress who has sewn for many years! You are very good at explaining and organizing information.

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад +2

      Hello! Thank you for your lovely comment. I really appreciate that you like the video 😊

  • @kathrynletchford5114
    @kathrynletchford5114 13 дней назад

    I do not have the body type you are talking about, but i love listening to you, so i am happily watching this video. 😂😂

  • @virginiabouvier2081
    @virginiabouvier2081 Год назад +1

    Fabulous. I just starting out learning about pattern drafting etc, and this really helps ❤

  • @cgmuhoza
    @cgmuhoza 11 месяцев назад +3

    WHERE were you all my life??? Clear n Neat. Thank you SOOO MUCH. Power to the metric!!!

  • @mattyames
    @mattyames Год назад +2

    Wow, that was a very comprehensive guide. I'm glad my old shirts came in handy!

    • @annlidslot8212
      @annlidslot8212 Год назад +1

      Hi, The internet thank you for contribution of shirts😉😊. Well I do at least. I watched you two dance earlier, thanks to a link from Ilona. You looked to have so much fun. Yours, Ann

  • @rachelcartermurphy4854
    @rachelcartermurphy4854 10 месяцев назад +1

    I wanted to say You've Sunk My Battleship! or BINGO! This was so helpful and after this I finally got a fitted back! I Cannot thank you enough for this video

  • @inarafiredragon01
    @inarafiredragon01 Год назад +7

    This is the most detailed, easy to follow tutorial I've found. Also my body shape is very similar to yours and you described the same problems with store bought clothing I have. Thank You so much!
    Now I'm off to the drawing board to get started 🙂

  • @ayeshaali8131
    @ayeshaali8131 Год назад +2

    You are the first person who us addressing the individuality of body shape.
    Thank you so much

  • @JoyOfLive33
    @JoyOfLive33 11 месяцев назад +4

    Finally found your video. Gorgeous and simple. Keep up the good work and wait for your following pattern-making tutorials. 😍

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  10 месяцев назад +1

      Thank you so much! I am glad you enjoyed this 😊

    • @JoyOfLive33
      @JoyOfLive33 10 месяцев назад

      @@ByIlonaMillinery I have a question,CC3 = DD2 = Bu + ease, should it add a dart size? While i tried to follow your tutorial and video, but my pattern quite weird for the front . It' didn't work to make the dart width in the shoulder.

  • @emilyvanbebber
    @emilyvanbebber Год назад +1

    Ahhhi didn't know kw you did sewing videos too!! So happy stumbled across this I live your videos

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад +4

      Hi Emily, I am so glad you like my videos! yes - I have a few sewing videos, but I am mainly here for all the hats 👒 Would you be interested in more sewing videos? If so, what would you like to see me do? 👗📐

  • @tonnyandersson
    @tonnyandersson 11 месяцев назад

    I really find very interesting to this tutorial. I looked many tutorials and the way of teahing is perfect. The problem is in the pattern system technique. I will practice more the techniques that I have learned to improve it. I don't like fittings because sometimes the clients don't have time to check how clothes fit on them. However your tutorial was the best of bodice patterns making.

  • @reginaceragioli8101
    @reginaceragioli8101 Год назад +1

    Thank you SO much for this!

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад

      Hello Regina! You are very welcome 😊 Let me know how this goes if you decide to try it!

  • @CareelBay
    @CareelBay Год назад

    Fantastic! Seeing as well! 🎉

  • @remainschloe
    @remainschloe Месяц назад +1

    The shoulder measurement always alludes me🥲

  • @jacquelinepaddock7535
    @jacquelinepaddock7535 Год назад +4

    Thankyou Illona, the tips on measuring by yourself. I agree that masking tape can be very useful. I have been known to use it , with tissue as a temporary dressing when accidentally stabbing my self when sewing! As it is low tack it causes less damage if removed pronto. As I'm similarly shaped to you I really appreciate the self draft demonstration.

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад +1

      Hello Jacqueline, You are so welcome 😊I do hope you try this and it works for you 😃

  • @preciousokolonkwo8880
    @preciousokolonkwo8880 Месяц назад

    You are so funny when it comes to measurement taking

  • @mcanultymichelle
    @mcanultymichelle Год назад

    Just came across your video,well done

  • @amyjohoppins1087
    @amyjohoppins1087 8 месяцев назад

    Sounds good. Im in.

  • @frankdearr2772
    @frankdearr2772 10 месяцев назад

    Great, thanks for sharing 👍

  • @greedinganddriftingfashi-nv1cj
    @greedinganddriftingfashi-nv1cj 5 месяцев назад

    ❤ nice

  • @teruldacz
    @teruldacz 9 месяцев назад

    Updated:
    Omg this is the BEST video I've seen. I actually do have a free torso sloper downloaded and started modifying the first mock up. I just kinda got lost and couldn't find the alterations I needed described anywhere. Coincidently they are the same you needed on your pattern so I finally know what I need to fix and how. Thank you.
    Also if I where to draft this, does it work for C-D cup sizes without FBA?
    Update: tried this technique of drafting but it stopped working for me at lenght a1d +1cm. It was 6cm longer than my shoulder lenght (mine is 11 or 12 cm, it ended up 17cm. Such a shame. I really hoped it would work

  • @user-yn9xf7bo6y
    @user-yn9xf7bo6y Год назад

    Мне понравилось, как Вы объясняете. Спасибо. Супер. Вы позитивны.❤

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад

      Спасибо большое! Я очень рада что вам понравилось 😊

  • @BlackFrostQueen
    @BlackFrostQueen 8 месяцев назад

    Thank you, Ilona for this video. I'm brand new to sewing and I found you video very easy to follow. I've just created my own bodice block, and while the first mockup isn't perfect its closer than I've gotten before! With a few simple adjustments I should be able to have my perfect fit. Thank you again! Quick question: Does this bodice block pattern accommodate a sleeve? Or do I need to adjust the ease to fit a sleeve in?

  • @solefortini
    @solefortini 6 месяцев назад

    Hi, this video is syper helpful and I will definitely use it. I'm having trouble opening the page with the formulas. Could you share the link drive?

  • @lissahime
    @lissahime 11 месяцев назад +1

    I am going to use this to attempt to pattern myself. I would love to see a video like this for he sway back patterning! I have the hardest time getting clothes to lay flat instead of gathering above the bum where the sway is most pronounced.

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  11 месяцев назад +1

      Hi Lissa! For a sway back alteration take a horizontal pie wedge out of the bottom of the centre back to shorten the back without shortening the sides- this should help.

    • @teruldacz
      @teruldacz 9 месяцев назад

      ​@ByIlonaMillinery and then you just straighten the center back seam right?

  • @ranaaghapoor9113
    @ranaaghapoor9113 7 месяцев назад

    عالیست 👌👏🌹❤👍🙏

  • @saintmichel6464
    @saintmichel6464 5 месяцев назад +2

    Hola sube más videos de patrones de Ropa

  • @linarodz2165
    @linarodz2165 Год назад

    Thank you!!! And how can I make the sleeve?

  • @julietierney2516
    @julietierney2516 11 месяцев назад

    Love the idea of using an old man's shirt for the muslin.

  • @gbird8989
    @gbird8989 4 месяца назад +1

    I downloaded the spreadsheet but everything is in the wrong columns by a couple?

  • @rezzacee
    @rezzacee Год назад +3

    Hi Ilona, thank you for this super helpful video. I've tried using this and the toile mostly fits really nicely however the shoulder part has gotten really messed up for me at both front and back. My shoulder length is 18cm so according to the instructions my final back shoulder length should be 19cm, but when I join up the points a1 and d2 the back shoulder line is way longer at 22cm! For the front shoulder, the distance between the A2 and A4 also ends up being 16cm on paper, which is shorter than my shoulder length. I've gone over each step again trying to work out where I've gone wrong but can't seem to work out where I've gone wrong, please could you help? I could share my completed spreadsheet with you if you happened to have the time and patience to troubleshoot...

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад +2

      Hello, thanks for getting in touch - gosh it really does sound complicated! I can't help you directly, however I recommend rather than going over your work, you start from the very beginning - including taking your measurements. When I first learnt to pattern draft, I had a very similar problem to what you are describing, and when starting again from scratch I realised I had taken my measurements wrong AND I had entered a number wrong into the formulas. Good luck & I hope you succeed! 😊🧵

    • @sabinaa5333
      @sabinaa5333 Год назад +5

      I had the same problem. She forgot to put the back dart on the shoulder :) You measure then starting from the dart, not from point a1. If you look at the video, there are darts on the back. I hope this helps.

    • @gisellelawrence2367
      @gisellelawrence2367 Год назад +1

      I have the same problem...

    • @milkandrosess550
      @milkandrosess550 Год назад

      I have the same issue

  • @dukeofpurl
    @dukeofpurl 6 месяцев назад

    Would your system work for men's measurements? I want to sew a bespoke shirt for myself from scratch. I'm a total noob but determined. 😂 Thx for the video and reply!

  • @sophielutgendorf7963
    @sophielutgendorf7963 7 месяцев назад

    Hi ilona! i just finished drafting the pattern but now i see that you also have a dart in the back shoulder area. is that a personal choice after a fitting? is it neccesarry?

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  7 месяцев назад

      Hi Sophie! Yes, it's a personal choice. With this draft, you will find the back shoulder 1cm longer than the front shoulder. This is to accomodate the curve of your upper back.
      You can either ease the back shoulder into the front, or add the dart (the dart goes in the centre of the back shoulder perpendicular to it for 7.5cm)

  • @diyaisourprincess4484
    @diyaisourprincess4484 11 месяцев назад +2

    Actual drafting starts at 13 minutes 😊

  • @IsaG1234
    @IsaG1234 9 месяцев назад

    Hi, Ilona. I draft the pattern with the winifred Aldrich method and it says to leave a 5cm easy at the bust, you dismiss this right? it was too much?

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  9 месяцев назад

      Hi Isabel, the ease is totally up to you. If you want a loose blousy fit, add more ease. If you want super fitted, the minimum amount is 1cm. I hope this helps 😊🪡

  • @ejliwanan8805
    @ejliwanan8805 Год назад +6

    This guide is very well made and comprehensive. However at 15:42 when you said that the length between a1 and d should be equal to the shoulder length + 1, you completely lost me, because there was already a 4-5 cm discrepancy. This sort of had a domino effect on everything else from then on, so I just stopped. Which is a shame because it was going so well up until that point.

    • @teruldacz
      @teruldacz 8 месяцев назад

      I have the same problem

  • @majawow
    @majawow Год назад

    Hello, will this tutorial work for the normal bust size?

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад

      Hello! You can try, but you will need to do a lot of extra fittings work. You might end up with gaping at the chest and arms, and the front will be too long at the bust line.

    • @QueenAnon
      @QueenAnon Год назад +1

      Ilona, would you be willing to make this for normal bust size? I am just starting sewing and what you're doing is EXACTLY what I was looking for ❤

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад +1

      @@QueenAnon Hello! It's great that you are starting sewing - good luck! 🧵I will add this to my do to list, but I am not sure when I will get round to it. For now, here is some information as to how it would be different: the difference between a "normal" bust in comparison to a "large" bust will be in the centre front length of the front bodice piece, the armscye construction, and also the width along the bust line.

  • @TheGalactica2001
    @TheGalactica2001 2 месяца назад

    Oh, I just learned I have large bust. My blouses always pop in the middle and that is such a hassle

  • @LynnHermione
    @LynnHermione 11 месяцев назад +1

    I am confused with the hip measurement, i usually take it lower at the fullest part of my butt bc that's the widest part

  • @ritajoseph9450
    @ritajoseph9450 Месяц назад

    Like

  • @yolandafernandezcastro5441
    @yolandafernandezcastro5441 Месяц назад

    Hello, how are you? I loved your video, it is true that I measure my body measurements 100 times because I always believe that they have been taken incorrectly when I compare them with a table of measurements, the horizontal measurements are more or less but the vertical measurements are very very different, the problem is that I'm 156 and the rage woman is possibly 168... I don't know if that would be too much of an indiscretion, please feel free to answer, what is your height? that will help me confirm the difference in sizes. Very many Thank you for your excellent work. (sorry, I don't speak English, this is an automatic translation)

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Месяц назад +1

      Hey! I understand your struggle! My height is 158cm. But height isn't always an indicator. For example I know that my torso (back waist) measure is very short, but my legs (hip to floor) is average. The best thing is for you to look in the mirror. Are your legs super long, or short or average looking? You can also think about how shop bought clothes fit you. Eg, on me, tops are always too long and bunch up in the back, but trousers are always fine in length.

    • @yolandafernandezcastro5441
      @yolandafernandezcastro5441 29 дней назад

      Thank ❤

    • @yolandafernandezcastro5441
      @yolandafernandezcastro5441 29 дней назад

      ❤Thank

  • @dinamegahed5875
    @dinamegahed5875 Год назад

    I couldn't edit on the google sheet

    • @ByIlonaMillinery
      @ByIlonaMillinery  Год назад

      Hi Dina, please click File → Make a copy. This will save a version of this file to your Google Drive and you will then be able to make edits without affecting the master.

  • @elizharber3564
    @elizharber3564 9 месяцев назад

    ✨🧵

  • @indramani2734
    @indramani2734 Год назад

    Please use white paper

  • @bessevaraven859
    @bessevaraven859 11 месяцев назад

    Or instead of the larger average your numbers

  • @tinktink9459
    @tinktink9459 Год назад

    Can you explain this in inches?

  • @godiswisdom5853
    @godiswisdom5853 Год назад

    I'm from the itty bitty community but I still want to watch. 😂 I feel bad for women with larger breasts. I have heard about back pain and other issues. I have my own problems but weight on my back isn't one. It looks good women with larger one's but seems a hassle.

  • @eppjjhhh6011
    @eppjjhhh6011 Год назад

    Put number on sereen please

  • @deekshaKbP
    @deekshaKbP Год назад

    Lost you at 13.11 😔

  • @LynnHermione
    @LynnHermione 11 месяцев назад

    5:54 that chart is nonsensical. none of my measurements match anything and I'm average

  • @aimsophie
    @aimsophie 10 месяцев назад

    Size 10 bust measurement at 84cm and waist at 64cm????? This chart must be from the 1950s