I agree 100% that having a well fitted dartless body sloper is very useful, especially today when dartless styles are trending. I’m saying it as someone who designs women’s tops for a living. It’s a pretty good tutorial and the fit is almost as good as it gets for the dartless pattern. I say almost because shoulder seams are not in the right place and need to be brought forward at least 1/2” I’d suggest instead of reducing the armhole at the side to draw the front shoulder line 1/4” lower and the back 1/4” higher, then adjust and redraw the neckline. In the industry they call it “forward shoulder seam” which all woven tops have. For the balance fit in wovens the back armhole and the back length from highest point shoulder must be longer than the front, otherwise the top, when on the body, would be constantly pulled back. It also addresses the hiking issue and that ease she has at the front neckline.
Hello, I think I made a mistake as you described. After sewing and wearing it, the back of my shirt is bulging and not straight. Can you give me an article or a video? Fixing it is easier than not
This is definitely a pattern i want to try! Off topic but: We've been cleaning out the apartment we're gonna move into and the previous tenant got arrested & evicted so they left everything although we did let her mom get everything she wanted out. I found a Singer 127 in a case and a sewing table with another vintage machine in it!! I've never been so happy to clean up someone else's mess in my entire life! Lol
Okay. I’m going to sew a top using this method. Sewing for 22 years now but I’m always open to fresh ideas. It I not true that creating a dart less top is shapeless. I prefer those since it’s so comfortable. Thank you for sharing your methods.
Thank you so much for your great videos. I used your instruction to draft this pattern. The best part is I’m a beginner and this was my very first garment! I’m so pleased with how it turned out on the first go - sleeves and all! When you are a beginner it can be overwhelming to know where to start. I’m so grateful I found your channel and pursued making this top. I learned a lot from your videos both before I started and along the way. I initially expected to buy a pattern, but once convinced I could do this too it was a great learning experience. It took a lot of the pressure off that I didn’t need to make purchasing decisions to get started. I borrowed a family members sewing machine, cut the skirt off a long dress, and sat down with gridlined wrapping paper, a ruler, and a pen. The first major challenge was learning how to get the fabric as close to square as possible with the fabric folded over and make symmetrical cuts to the top and bottom layers with scissors. The second major challenge was when I accidentally cut the front neckline to be too wide across the shoulders right after completing my first successful rollover hem on the back neckline. The solution: applying bias tape as a first timer to the front neckline! The seam reaper came in handy. I rarely comment on social media platforms but I wanted to thank you and also share a very beginner’s perspective. Already looking forward to my next project!
Wow you are really inspiring me to move forward with this project! Thank you. After having sewn a few purchased patterns which never fit in the shoulders or neckline, I wanted to just make my own pattern however watching this video (and the one for the sleeve) I lost hope. Having read your review as a new sewist I'll do my best to give it a go. Thanks for the renewed inspiration :)
The shoulder slope is always tricky for me when self drafting, never got it quite right! This is the first time I find someone showing a way to measure it, thank you very much for sharing!
Love your teaching style and how you make it so simple. I have tried patterns and don't like them, so I never complete anything, too many modifications. I am a member of your channel and I highly recommend it, the instructions sheets and additional information is fantastic. I haven't made anything in a while but I am going to follow this series and make this. You're the best Alisa!!!
I love your videos. I find your videos way more helpful than instructions from ‘professional pattern makes’. They jealous that you help people for free, while they spent fortune on learning about garment making. Don’t let them discourage you!!! Love what you offer!!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️
So I was freaking out because I didn't think the pattern look right because in the front I needed 3in on my shoulder instead of 1in like you so I thought it looked really weird but I just tried it out and it looks amazing! Thank you so much!! Your awesome
Dartless bodices is what people wore in the middle ages. What they did at some point (I think late middle ages) is they used the center seam both in the back and the front to adjust to the particular curves of the person wearing the garment, chest, curve of the back, tummy, etc. I tried it once and it really works and even provides a little bit of chest support! You end up with blocks that are curved not only on the underarm seam but also on the other side
This worked perfectly for me!! I made my 1st shirt using this pattern and wow, it came out so good, perfect custom sizing! Thank you for all your work and sharing with us!
Thank you so much Alisa. It now 11:29 here in Ontario, so I’ll be getting back to this tomorrow. Your explanations are very complete and I should be able to find my way there. Thanks again, and have a good day tomorrow. Cheers!
I really love your channel and feel so inspired by you, not only for the awesome clean work you share but also, for your sweet voice guiding us. You are very appreciated!
Awesome! I even went and double checked that everything works :) this is a fairly new function on RUclips so sometimes it is not as intuitive as the rest of the platform. Once again, Thank You so much for joining. Here's Members Only video playlist to start with and if you go to Membershib Tab on my homepage - you will see all links to your perks! ruclips.net/p/PLTQAETBWbJdjimWwNqDmMPuE2_KQmCXsR
Thanks for this video!! The fact is, in the current fashion trend at least in my country, clothes are mostly at least 80% in stretchy knit or spandex material which is very suitable for me since I am already 65yrs old with belly, shapeless body structure. I find it difficult to shop for my own clothes bcoz of my body structure and this is why I decided to make my own clothes. I'm glad I don't need to learn those darts which for me as a beginner is a bit confusing for my pattern making!! I just need a basic pattern to start with and learn to sew on stretchy fabrics bcoz this is the fabric that suits my needs! Get rid of zips which I don't need but want to settle with button down dress which is very convenient for me as a 65yr old beginner sewer to be!! Thank you!
I really appreciate this. I only make and wear loose and flowy tunic type tops which this type of block would be good for. I haven't made a block in years, so this was helpful.
Hi Alisa!! Amazing tutorial.. I love how easy you explain everything, making me feel I can achieve this myself.. Will be trying this out tomorrow, for sure.. Thanks again…. 💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank You very much. Perfectly explained as always. Got to get a few items and then it's sew sew sew . You make me want to learn. Candice from Trinidad
Thank you this was sooooo helpful! I am learning to make my own patterns at the moment. Also, your voice is absolutely soothing! Love listening to you.
I love every one of your thoughtfully produced videos; they’re so empowering❣️May I make a request for a video of drafting a pattern in this manner for the men in our lives and how to make a breast pocket on a T-shirt with knits that will lay flat, not bunch the fabric and stay closed enough that things don’t fall out. I can’t seem to manage it🤷🏼♀️.
Thank you so much Alisa - such great tutorials. Very proud of my drafted bodice. Please can you do the follow up sleeves video soon. I’m looking forward to completing my top!
Just finished the draftings😁 , so happy that you started this series. Yesterday I drafted one following another tutorial, but I wasn't confident about it. I thinks it was a bit advanced for me😅. Anyway when I saw yours I started right away. I have a question, how did u add the hips length please? I'm waiting impatiently for the sleeves because I want to make a maxi dress with long sleeves suitable for hijab.. thanks alot 💓
Love this tutorial & its very teachable. I always have trouble w doing the bodice. I did do one in Fashion School that I still. But am still a little bit confused.
Great video. I love your teaching style. Did you do both 1/4 inch adjustments in the front at the same time? You said that raising the armpit by 1/4 was another way yet you did both. I am a little confused. Is it possible to illustrate how you added both 1/4 inches in the back pattern? Thanking you in advance😊
Hello from Quebec Canada! Thank you for your very informative videos. This is my first woven block, so I’m a little nervous and have the same questions about the 1/4 adjustments. Do you do both or chose only one option. And for the back pattern, where and how do I add the 1/4 ease? Thank you for sharing your knowledge !😍
Hi! Are men & children's measurements taken the same way/techniques as shown in this video? I drafted myself a pattern using your tutorial & it came out perfectly, thank you! Now I want to make my husband his personal drafted template, also my children.
I have learned so much watching your drafting tutorials. Thank you for sharing so much! Is there any reason I can’t use the dartless woven bodice block to make a bodice block for my husband and then draft a long sleeve woven shirt? I’m thinking the ease may be different? Have you done and drafting tutorials for men’s garments? Have a great week! Debby
Debby, all great questions! :) it is somewhat similar, cause after all we have the same features like shoulders, torso and etc, but you are right - amount of ease and some fit features are different. Interestingly, I have drafted lots of different shorts and pull-on pants for my husband and some t-shirts, but not a full on button-up or woven shirt, however I do have some directions in my sewing books (at least I think I do). I think it is from the Antonio Donnano books, the ones that don't offer much explanation (there is one Members Extra with his book review), but I will take a picture tomorrow and post it for the Members, so that way you can see!
This is so comprehensive! I followed along on a sturdy piece of cardboard, paused often, numbered the steps and annotated. I made a goof and started at the very top of the cardboard, so I get to practice on paper bags. One question. You show how to position the bustline, but not the waistline. I measured down from the bust. Is that the correct way to do it?
No worries at all, and well done on getting started! I wanted to give you a couple of helpful tips. One of the is that you have printable step-by-step instructions for this project on Google Drive as a part of your Membership, if you watch this Membership trailer (just make sure you do it till the very end, it s a short video) it will show you how to access Google Drive link and there in the "Instruction sheets" folder you will find many PDF's that you can print. Here's the video - ruclips.net/video/uP9qSamkVkk/видео.html Also, I did simplify this bodice block, so that way it is easier for people to draft it, but like anything without darts - it can have issues, for answers to many in-depth questions about drafting a bodice block I would suggest watching and doing the bodice block with a dart - you will see explanations as to what are we doing, why and hopefully that will paint a fuller picture, here it - ruclips.net/video/aJ6Stv9b8k0/видео.html
Hi, can you show how to ease in the 1/4" side seam difference into the back panel (15:32)? Will it be the same or easier to either add 1/4" to the length of the front panel or cut 1/4" off the length of the back panel?
Hello, I just stumbled onto this in my search and I love you ease of explaination. I understand you very well and its very simple to follow. I have a question, you state this bodice block is for woven fabrics, is this specifically knits?
I wanted to try drafting bodice block and surfed thru lots of tutorials. I quickly realized yours was the best!! So I drafted the dartless bodice block. I was very excited when I tried on the test garment because it fit good except the armholes. They are too deep and my sleeves just don’t work. How do you adjust the depth of the armholes?
Virginia, hello there! So excited for You and thank you so much for becoming a Member! Let me ask an additional question - is it too deep, meaning the curve of the armhole is to deep, or the armhole is too low, meaning the armhole is further than you would like from the armpit down the side seam? Thank you!
Thank you for a detailed instruction. Now I have made the pattern. Could provide some sewing ideas that can be developed from the pattern? I am relatively new to sewing hence the question. Thank you!
Sheri, great job! Please go to my channel page and take a look at all of the videos that I have made - in garment videos I often say which pattern block you can use for this or that design, that's how you get the ideas :)
Hi there , thank you again for these tutorials. I am really enjoying my membership. I do however have a question. If I am making this for other people & they are not available to take measurements and simply tell me they are a size 16/38 or something like that. I will have all the measurements off a chart except the shoulder slope. How do I then draft the pattern as this affects the armhole and shoulder lines. TIA 🌸
Hello there, thank you so much and happy to have you! Shoulder slope is a bit of a tricky one, I would say 1.5" to 1 3/4" to 2" would be the most common range. What you can also do, just to establish a baseline for yourself (if you sew for other people without measurements often) is you can measure a shoulder slope in their RTW size, you can possible go to the store with a small measuring tape and quickly measure it, or perhaps if you have a commercial pattern - you can quickly find it out there.
QUESTION- I’m just a little bit confused about when you say “divide the difference in half” (6:26) .Just curious as to what you were referring to then as I am confused. Thanks I hope you see and rely to this message as it is from 2years ago now😅.
Hi. I like a bunch your teaching and I appreciate your time to share with us your knowledge. I have a question. How can I fix the armhole gap for knit sleeveless pattern with no darts? Thanks in advance and many blessings for you and your family!
Hi Alisa. First of all LOVE FROM INDIA. I really appreciate your your way of explanation and wonderful tutorial. I would like to know how to create a bust dart to a dart less bodies. Your help would be greatly appreciated Thanks a lot
Prem, I have already 2 videos on the channel about this topic : 1) how to draft a bodice with darts and 2) how to draft a cami with darts. Both will give you methods.on how to add a dart. :)
I love this blouse and want to see it. I have question about arm hole. on back pattern you took 1" on front 3/4". how do I know how much I should take for myself. what calculation shows this?
Hi, thank you for your video. Iris very helpful.did you posted video with the sleeves for this block? If yes, where I can find it? Thank you for your time and knowledge
Hi.Thanks very much for this.I,m a beginner and I found it very confusing.Perhaps re word the names you use for the measurement titles when you are measuring to the same names in your pattern paper.I got really mixed up with the shoulder slope.This may say more about me than the instructions.
Fran, hello there and thank you for joining! - at 5:30 in this video we start by placing a straight line from the neck to the waist and then we find our bust by dividing it in half. If you want precise result - follow fitted bodice block tutorial here - ruclips.net/video/aJ6Stv9b8k0/видео.html
@@ThoughtfulCreativity I’ll start with this video and get someone to look over my shoulder to make sure I don’t go wrong. Thanks again for all your help. Good night!
I am a member of your wonderful channel but I don’t see the worksheets that you are showing for the measurements and directions for the dartless bodice block in Drive.
Hello there! I just checked for you - they are all there :) here's how to get them 1)go to Google Drive for Members 2) you will see 4 folders, click on the "Instruction sheets for garments" 3) you can sort out the files in google drive in ABC order, and there are only two files that start with D letter and those are "Diamond sweater" and "Dartless Bodice block". I hope this helps and thank you so much for being a Member :)
You should always add seam allowances, that is the space necessary for the constructions of the seam. If you did not add seam allowances and sewed up you garment let's say with a 3/8" seam allowance then you took away 3/8" off of each pattern piece, so your final garment measurement is now 3/9"x4 smaller that you drafted.
Hello there, Anita! You can find all Members Perks, including the link to the google drive on the Membership tab on my channel. Alternatively there are link to all perks underneath all Members Extra videos, like this one - ruclips.net/video/kdPlwAxpi8I/видео.html the link that you want is marked "GOOGLE DRIVE" and then just click on the folder that says "instruction sheets" :)
I have a HUUUGE favor to ask! Can you give me some guidance on how to draft one of those high neck gathered tops? They usually have a small ruffle at the neck. I can email you an image if you need to see what I'm talking about. I want to make one of these tops but think I could draft one myself. There aren't many good tutorials on how to do this. I think I saw where you would use a peasant style top then gather the neckline in but I'm not sure?? Any advice appreciated!!
Someone help!! I've tried making these kind of bodice blocks many times, but I can never get the armhole right🥲 My shoulders are quite broad and my bust is very small, so it is smaller than the circumference of my armpit and shoulder. The line in the pattern for my bust is significantly shorter than the shoulder line, and it makes the sleeve not work?? It has a weird shape and if I were to make a garment with it, it wouldn't even reach around to form sleeves.... Do I use my armpit to armpit- measurement instead of bust since my body is wider there? Or is there another solution?? Thankful for help!!!♥️♥️
Hello again. Do you use other apps for drawing your diagrams? Im trying to get into the Templates for Members only.... seems I'm lost, because they wont come up???
Fran, hello there! I just use RUclips and Google drive. Let me ask you - "they won't come up" as in - you see the folders on Google Drive but they open empty? Here's how to find all link for Members perks: Once you have joined - head over to the MEMBERSHIP tab on my channel homepage to get the links to all of your perks! You will need to click on green "click to show perks" and the list will open up. ALSO - head to the Community tab to see latest Members Only Sneak Peek and additional info - Apple users, here you will find Members Extra videos posted. Click on any of the Members Extra videos and go the info box to that video - all Members Perks are listed there. Yay! :) IF you clicked on the Google DRIVE link and all you see is 4 folders but you can't open them or you open them and they are empty (usually happens to Apple users) then you most likely have to clean your cache or enable some functions on your Ipad. Everything is working, all things are available. You just need to google for possible answers and see why google drive isn't displayed correctly on your device, it does not happen to every Ipad, but unfortunately I can't help you more as I am not an Ipad user. I have asked my friend to double check it for me - and Google Drive opens up smooth on her Ipad.
Hello there! Thank you for being interested, there are 2 ways: you should see a "join" button next to "subscribe" button right underneath the video, you can also click on my channel name and you should see a "join"button on my home page or the 3rd way, I usually leave a link for.it in the infobox as well, so check it out. Thanks again! :)
@@audreytallant1 yes, you should see a "join" button next to "subscribe" button, that's where that function is at. Subscribing is a regular function, join is a paid function. If you don't see that button just follow the other 2 ways I have outlined above. Hope this helps!
Does it make sense that my Back Waist Length is 18" and my Shoulder Slop of Back is 21"? That is a difference of 3" which means I would move my G2 line up 3". If I do that my shoulder seam of 4.5" is almost perpendicular (on a really steep slope \ )to that G Line . I hope that makes sense. I'm sorry I am having such a hard time figuring this out
You can take a straight ruler, put it perpendicular to your spine, at the base of your neck. The distance between the ruler and your shoulder (at the edge of your shoulder) is a shoulder slope. Here's is a video of a bodice block with darts, with a slightly different method of drafting, you can see if that helps you understand/measure/draft easier. You don't have to do the darts (without darts you will have a gaping armhole) just watch the method - ruclips.net/video/aJ6Stv9b8k0/видео.html
Remember that the pattern that you are drafting reflects your body, so if the pattern as of right now has a shoulder seam that is almost perpendicular to your neck, then take a look in the mirror - are your shoulders perpendicular to your neck? The pattern and the body go hand in hand. If your shoulders are not perpendicular then something is off somewhere. It is not uncommon to take wrong measurements, shoulder slope is one of them.
Usually, shoulder slope is about 1.5-2", but it really depends on an individual. Your shoulders can also be uneven, which sometimes can get people off track, mine are uneven (one is higher than the other) and I don't draft left side different from the right side.
hi Alisa I followed the instructions but the ease in my sleeve seems a lot to try get in do i pleat it between the ease Marks or is it supposed to go in flat also my neck seems bit high and very loose around the neck I did the 2 1/2 inches like you so do bn I just cut down more to suit me thank you I am bigger than you so bit confused
Great, always remember that your final result depends on a variety of factors, and it is totally normal to do adjustments and a few fittings. SLEEVE - 1) decrease the ease - I speak about it in the sleeve video 2) do research on how to ease in woven sleeve BODICE - 1) loose neck/across chest is usually due to incorrect back shoulder width and shoulder seam measurement - double check it, reduce if needed. If back fits great, then you might reduce front shoulder width (in the video we made it 1/4" shorter than back, you might want to shorten it a bit more) . Also make sure your shoulder slope measurement is correct 2) since this is dart-less bodice block it will not fit tight, as it has no darts 3) if you have large bust - you will most likely need a bodice with dart for appropriate fit.
Hi Alisa, I click the button to join the membership, but it just takes me to the Homepage, I can’t seem to find where to do the paid membership. Sorry, a bit of help please. Xx Suz
Hi, I could not find the join button either but it was because I was using my iPad. (Not available on iPhone or iPad) It is clearly there when I used my PC. Hope that helps.
Hello Alisa. How would I adjust the chest measurement to my pattern. On my shirts (which I have tried to make) I always end up with a 1/2" gap on my chest. I would assume that my chest is smaller than what my bustline is... ??? Thanks in advance.
@@ThoughtfulCreativity Yes. it’s the above the bust measurement. In the upper, middle of my chest it always ends up being too loose. Always by about 1/4”-1/2”.
Fran, hello there, I ma not sure if I am going to be up much longer, here's the thing - woven bodice block without dart is never going to fit super tight as that is not possible due to the curves of our body and the fact that the fabric/pattern has to accommodate for that. Darts - the tool really fit the patter to our bodies. Dartless blocks are possible, but something has to give, you will have that "dart" amount somewhere, it might be in form of a little "pocket" of fabric, might be a little gap or extra width, but that's the reality of woven blocks without darts in most cases. If you want a fitted result - follow the woven bodice block with darts tutorial, you can find it on my channel and I gave you the link for it yesterday under your previous comment. About upper bust measurement - any measurements that are on your body will correspond to the measurements of your paper pattern. So think this way - if I need to find where is my upper bust I would measure from High point shoulder to where my upper bust is at, then just place this measurement on your paper pattern, from high point shoulder straight line down with whatever measurement you recorded. Now you found where is your upper bust - across will be the circumference, so measure the circumference and place that on the pattern. Pattern reflects your body, think about it like looking in the mirror - what and where it is on your body - that's how you mark it on the pattern. I hope this helps!
Ah, I see, if your talking about a gaping neckline it is usually the shoulder width. Your shoulders on the back have a curve as they are pitched forward, therefore if you measure shoulder in the front the measurement is about 1/2" smaller than the same measurement taken in the back, at 10:00 in this tutorial we account for that. Make sure that you make a muslin first to see any fit issues and work them out if needed. Here's Members Extra for this bodice block - ruclips.net/video/CCd-OP1a2xI/видео.html
@@ThoughtfulCreativity Thanks for this. Time for bed for everyone I think. Tomorrow will get all the info together and take it from there. Thanks for all your help. 🤗
Hello there and welcome! Here's how, please watch this video till the end, and then open the description box underneath it and follow the instructions to find all links for Members Perks, including Instruction Sheets - ruclips.net/video/uP9qSamkVkk/видео.html
Marisa, hello there and welcome. All perks, including the Google Drive link where you will find all Instructions sheets, are on the Membership tab on my channel. Watch this video till the VERY END (very important) and you will see how to find your perks, it is very easy - ruclips.net/video/uP9qSamkVkk/видео.html
Here's a knit bodice block tutorial - ruclips.net/video/QN97H6MyZaA/видео.html
Thought of joining the membership, but can't you add more channels of payments I. e mpesa?
That was my second question. Saw that, didn't see anything to pertained to woven. It's just a block, not a garment. Thanks!
I agree 100% that having a well fitted dartless body sloper is very useful, especially today when dartless styles are trending. I’m saying it as someone who designs women’s tops for a living. It’s a pretty good tutorial and the fit is almost as good as it gets for the dartless pattern. I say almost because shoulder seams are not in the right place and need to be brought forward at least 1/2” I’d suggest instead of reducing the armhole at the side to draw the front shoulder line 1/4” lower and the back 1/4” higher, then adjust and redraw the neckline. In the industry they call it “forward shoulder seam” which all woven tops have. For the balance fit in wovens the back armhole and the back length from highest point shoulder must be longer than the front, otherwise the top, when on the body, would be constantly pulled back. It also addresses the hiking issue and that ease she has at the front neckline.
Thanks! That's super helpful!
Hello, I think I made a mistake as you described. After sewing and wearing it, the back of my shirt is bulging and not straight. Can you give me an article or a video? Fixing it is easier than not
This is definitely a pattern i want to try! Off topic but: We've been cleaning out the apartment we're gonna move into and the previous tenant got arrested & evicted so they left everything although we did let her mom get everything she wanted out. I found a Singer 127 in a case and a sewing table with another vintage machine in it!! I've never been so happy to clean up someone else's mess in my entire life! Lol
A bodice block is not a pattern
Congratulations! I wish you living in the new apartment has been a joy in every other way, too.
Okay. I’m going to sew a top using this method. Sewing for 22 years now but I’m always open to fresh ideas. It I not true that creating a dart less top is shapeless. I prefer those since it’s so comfortable. Thank you for sharing your methods.
Thank you so much for your great videos. I used your instruction to draft this pattern. The best part is I’m a beginner and this was my very first garment! I’m so pleased with how it turned out on the first go - sleeves and all! When you are a beginner it can be overwhelming to know where to start. I’m so grateful I found your channel and pursued making this top. I learned a lot from your videos both before I started and along the way.
I initially expected to buy a pattern, but once convinced I could do this too it was a great learning experience. It took a lot of the pressure off that I didn’t need to make purchasing decisions to get started. I borrowed a family members sewing machine, cut the skirt off a long dress, and sat down with gridlined wrapping paper, a ruler, and a pen. The first major challenge was learning how to get the fabric as close to square as possible with the fabric folded over and make symmetrical cuts to the top and bottom layers with scissors. The second major challenge was when I accidentally cut the front neckline to be too wide across the shoulders right after completing my first successful rollover hem on the back neckline. The solution: applying bias tape as a first timer to the front neckline! The seam reaper came in handy.
I rarely comment on social media platforms but I wanted to thank you and also share a very beginner’s perspective. Already looking forward to my next project!
Wow you are really inspiring me to move forward with this project! Thank you. After having sewn a few purchased patterns which never fit in the shoulders or neckline, I wanted to just make my own pattern however watching this video (and the one for the sleeve) I lost hope. Having read your review as a new sewist I'll do my best to give it a go. Thanks for the renewed inspiration :)
Hi I’ve been sewing for 60 years and I think you do a beautiful job drafting patterns. I love watching your videos.!
The shoulder slope is always tricky for me when self drafting, never got it quite right! This is the first time I find someone showing a way to measure it, thank you very much for sharing!
Love your teaching style and how you make it so simple. I have tried patterns and don't like them, so I never complete anything, too many modifications. I am a member of your channel and I highly recommend it, the instructions sheets and additional information is fantastic. I haven't made anything in a while but I am going to follow this series and make this. You're the best Alisa!!!
I love your videos. I find your videos way more helpful than instructions from ‘professional pattern makes’. They jealous that you help people for free, while they spent fortune on learning about garment making. Don’t let them discourage you!!! Love what you offer!!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️
So I was freaking out because I didn't think the pattern look right because in the front I needed 3in on my shoulder instead of 1in like you so I thought it looked really weird but I just tried it out and it looks amazing! Thank you so much!! Your awesome
Great job! You got this :)
Dartless bodices is what people wore in the middle ages. What they did at some point (I think late middle ages) is they used the center seam both in the back and the front to adjust to the particular curves of the person wearing the garment, chest, curve of the back, tummy, etc.
I tried it once and it really works and even provides a little bit of chest support! You end up with blocks that are curved not only on the underarm seam but also on the other side
I find this idea very interesting. I would be grateful if you can please throw more light on how it's done?
This worked perfectly for me!! I made my 1st shirt using this pattern and wow, it came out so good, perfect custom sizing! Thank you for all your work and sharing with us!
Thank you so much Alisa. It now 11:29 here in Ontario, so I’ll be getting back to this tomorrow. Your explanations are very complete and I should be able to find my way there. Thanks again, and have a good day tomorrow. Cheers!
Bless you Alisa! I have been looking forward to your videos ever since I stumbled upon it several months ago. You bring such enjoyment to sewing 🥰
Amazing tutorial. I have on a store bought no dart top right now and to think I could have made it! I'm trying this!
Exactly! I LOVE your attitude :) you can totally do it!
I really love your channel and feel so inspired by you, not only for the awesome clean work you share but also, for your sweet voice guiding us. You are very appreciated!
Thank you so much!
I did it! You are one of the best instructors on RUclips. Thank you so much.
Awesome! I even went and double checked that everything works :) this is a fairly new function on RUclips so sometimes it is not as intuitive as the rest of the platform. Once again, Thank You so much for joining. Here's Members Only video playlist to start with and if you go to Membershib Tab on my homepage - you will see all links to your perks! ruclips.net/p/PLTQAETBWbJdjimWwNqDmMPuE2_KQmCXsR
I found this video very helpful in adjusting the armhole lengths. Those methods actually work!
Thanks for this video!! The fact is, in the current fashion trend at least in my
country, clothes are mostly at least 80% in stretchy knit or spandex material
which is very suitable for me since I am already 65yrs old with belly, shapeless
body structure. I find it difficult to shop for my own clothes bcoz of my body
structure and this is why I decided to make my own clothes.
I'm glad I don't need to learn those darts which for me as a beginner is a bit
confusing for my pattern making!! I just need a basic pattern to start with and
learn to sew on stretchy fabrics bcoz this is the fabric that suits my needs!
Get rid of zips which I don't need but want to settle with button down dress
which is very convenient for me as a 65yr old beginner sewer to be!! Thank you!
I really appreciate this. I only make and wear loose and flowy tunic type tops which this type of block would be good for. I haven't made a block in years, so this was helpful.
Lovely friend.Its good idea and useful video. Thank s
Enjoy your life happily 💓💓💓💓💓
Finally a simple no nonsense basis for a t-shirt. No weird seams or pinching in the waist 👍
I absolutely love your channel and teaching. Thank you so much for sharing your love of sewing.
Thank you for another great informative video! Your attention and explanation to details clears the muddy waters of drafting patterns for me. 😄👍👍
Darling never apologize for the cat. I love your videos. 32 yrs experience in sewing and still learning. Love the practical can do attitude
Hi Alisa!! Amazing tutorial.. I love how easy you explain everything, making me feel I can achieve this myself.. Will be trying this out tomorrow, for sure.. Thanks again….
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank You very much. Perfectly explained as always. Got to get a few items and then it's sew sew sew . You make me want to learn. Candice from Trinidad
Thank you this was sooooo helpful! I am learning to make my own patterns at the moment. Also, your voice is absolutely soothing! Love listening to you.
Hooray Alisa 🥳🥳🥳🥳 I felt intimidated doing dart as a newbie ... Now these series I will feel confident 🥰🥰🥰😍🥰🤩🤩🥰🥰💕🙌🙌🙌🙌 thank you 🙏
Oh my perfect timing I was just trying to do this for my daughter (age11)!
This will be perfect! :)
@@rachelberwick7290 me too
Thank you for your the course basic boldice God bless you ❤️❤️❤️
I really love ur teaching style, very easy to understand
I love every one of your thoughtfully produced videos; they’re so empowering❣️May I make a request for a video of drafting a pattern in this manner for the men in our lives and how to make a breast pocket on a T-shirt with knits that will lay flat, not bunch the fabric and stay closed enough that things don’t fall out. I can’t seem to manage it🤷🏼♀️.
Wow wow. I really learn a lot from your videos. You are so lovely teacher.bless you.
Thank you so much Alisa - such great tutorials. Very proud of my drafted bodice. Please can you do the follow up sleeves video soon. I’m looking forward to completing my top!
Yes ma'am, I am working on it, for Members it should be available early next week! :)
Excellent tutorial. You always explain things so well. 🥰👌🏼
Miss Christine, thank you so much!!! I try my best!
Per favore puoi tradurre in italiano grazie
I just love the content in your videos. Thank you so much for teaching what you know .
You thee best teacher.Thanks God bleess❤
Just finished the draftings😁 , so happy that you started this series. Yesterday I drafted one following another tutorial, but I wasn't confident about it. I thinks it was a bit advanced for me😅.
Anyway when I saw yours I started right away.
I have a question, how did u add the hips length please?
I'm waiting impatiently for the sleeves because I want to make a maxi dress with long sleeves suitable for hijab.. thanks alot 💓
Love this tutorial & its very teachable. I always have trouble w doing the bodice. I did do one in Fashion School that I still. But am still a little bit confused.
I need to try this out. I have never tried a self drafted bodice block top. I'm a bit intimidated. I need to try of I'm going to learn ;)
exactly, have to try and practice and adjust and try again! you can do it, just a little patience :)
Great video. I love your teaching style. Did you do both 1/4 inch adjustments in the front at the same time? You said that raising the armpit by 1/4 was another way yet you did both. I am a little confused. Is it possible to illustrate how you added both 1/4 inches in the back pattern? Thanking you in advance😊
Hello from Quebec Canada! Thank you for your very informative videos. This is my first woven block, so I’m a little nervous and have the same questions about the 1/4 adjustments. Do you do both or chose only one option. And for the back pattern, where and how do I add the 1/4 ease? Thank you for sharing your knowledge !😍
Hello, I have the same questions about the adjustments. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you so much! Very useful videos.
I love your tutorials!
Excellent tutorial. Thank you so much !
Hi! Are men & children's measurements taken the same way/techniques as shown in this video? I drafted myself a pattern using your tutorial & it came out perfectly, thank you! Now I want to make my husband his personal drafted template, also my children.
I have learned so much watching your drafting tutorials. Thank you for sharing so much!
Is there any reason I can’t use the dartless woven bodice block to make a bodice block for my husband and then draft a long sleeve woven shirt? I’m thinking the ease may be different? Have you done and drafting tutorials for men’s garments?
Have a great week! Debby
Debby, all great questions! :) it is somewhat similar, cause after all we have the same features like shoulders, torso and etc, but you are right - amount of ease and some fit features are different. Interestingly, I have drafted lots of different shorts and pull-on pants for my husband and some t-shirts, but not a full on button-up or woven shirt, however I do have some directions in my sewing books (at least I think I do). I think it is from the Antonio Donnano books, the ones that don't offer much explanation (there is one Members Extra with his book review), but I will take a picture tomorrow and post it for the Members, so that way you can see!
This is so comprehensive! I followed along on a sturdy piece of cardboard, paused often, numbered the steps and annotated. I made a goof and started at the very top of the cardboard, so I get to practice on paper bags. One question. You show how to position the bustline, but not the waistline. I measured down from the bust. Is that the correct way to do it?
Oh, I see my mistake. You are using the neck to waist measure!
No worries at all, and well done on getting started! I wanted to give you a couple of helpful tips. One of the is that you have printable step-by-step instructions for this project on Google Drive as a part of your Membership, if you watch this Membership trailer (just make sure you do it till the very end, it s a short video) it will show you how to access Google Drive link and there in the "Instruction sheets" folder you will find many PDF's that you can print. Here's the video - ruclips.net/video/uP9qSamkVkk/видео.html Also, I did simplify this bodice block, so that way it is easier for people to draft it, but like anything without darts - it can have issues, for answers to many in-depth questions about drafting a bodice block I would suggest watching and doing the bodice block with a dart - you will see explanations as to what are we doing, why and hopefully that will paint a fuller picture, here it - ruclips.net/video/aJ6Stv9b8k0/видео.html
Hi, can you show how to ease in the 1/4" side seam difference into the back panel (15:32)? Will it be the same or easier to either add 1/4" to the length of the front panel or cut 1/4" off the length of the back panel?
I have the same doubt.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks 😊
I absolutely love this tutorial! This helps a great deal. ❤❤❤
Thank you! New subbie here. Take care
Hello, I just stumbled onto this in my search and I love you ease of explaination. I understand you very well and its very simple to follow. I have a question, you state this bodice block is for woven fabrics, is this specifically knits?
I wanted to try drafting bodice block and surfed thru lots of tutorials. I quickly realized yours was the best!! So I drafted the dartless bodice block. I was very excited when I tried on the test garment because it fit good except the armholes. They are too deep and my sleeves just don’t work. How do you adjust the depth of the armholes?
Virginia, hello there! So excited for You and thank you so much for becoming a Member! Let me ask an additional question - is it too deep, meaning the curve of the armhole is to deep, or the armhole is too low, meaning the armhole is further than you would like from the armpit down the side seam? Thank you!
Virginia, I am just following up with you if you saw my previous reply? :) Happy holidays!
I've learned so much from you
Oh my, how hard can measuring be! My shoulder to shoulder lenght is either 38 cm or 45 cm. The difference in inches --> 2,73!
Thank you for a detailed instruction. Now I have made the pattern. Could provide some sewing ideas that can be developed from the pattern? I am relatively new to sewing hence the question. Thank you!
Sheri, great job! Please go to my channel page and take a look at all of the videos that I have made - in garment videos I often say which pattern block you can use for this or that design, that's how you get the ideas :)
Hi there , thank you again for these tutorials. I am really enjoying my membership. I do however have a question. If I am making this for other people & they are not available to take measurements and simply tell me they are a size 16/38 or something like that. I will have all the measurements off a chart except the shoulder slope. How do I then draft the pattern as this affects the armhole and shoulder lines.
TIA 🌸
Hello there, thank you so much and happy to have you! Shoulder slope is a bit of a tricky one, I would say 1.5" to 1 3/4" to 2" would be the most common range. What you can also do, just to establish a baseline for yourself (if you sew for other people without measurements often) is you can measure a shoulder slope in their RTW size, you can possible go to the store with a small measuring tape and quickly measure it, or perhaps if you have a commercial pattern - you can quickly find it out there.
@@ThoughtfulCreativity Thank you, I'll give it a try 🪡
QUESTION- I’m just a little bit confused about when you say “divide the difference in half” (6:26) .Just curious as to what you were referring to then as I am confused. Thanks I hope you see and rely to this message as it is from 2years ago now😅.
Hi. I like a bunch your teaching and I appreciate your time to share with us your knowledge. I have a question. How can I fix the armhole gap for knit sleeveless pattern with no darts? Thanks in advance and many blessings for you and your family!
Deanna, a video about this is coming up within the new bodice block series!
Hi Alisa. First of all LOVE FROM INDIA.
I really appreciate your your way of explanation and wonderful tutorial.
I would like to know how to create a bust dart to a dart less bodies.
Your help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks a lot
Prem, I have already 2 videos on the channel about this topic : 1) how to draft a bodice with darts and 2) how to draft a cami with darts. Both will give you methods.on how to add a dart. :)
I love this blouse and want to see it. I have question about arm hole. on back pattern you took 1" on front 3/4". how do I know how much I should take for myself. what calculation shows this?
New subscriber here from Kuwait.. Do you sale Blouses that you make?
Love your videos. I was wondering if it would work for, let’s say, a C cup. Does this bodice work as us or would it require an FBA once done?
Muchas gracias por compartir
Thank you so muchh for doing this video. How can I add princess seam to it? From the armpit not the shoulder?
Beautiful voice
Hi, thank you for your video. Iris very helpful.did you posted video with the sleeves for this block? If yes, where I can find it? Thank you for your time and knowledge
Open the description of the video, it is right there :)
Hi.Thanks very much for this.I,m a beginner and I found it very confusing.Perhaps re word the names you use for the measurement titles when you are measuring to the same names in your pattern paper.I got really mixed up with the shoulder slope.This may say more about me than the instructions.
This is very helpful for women who have undergone a double mastectomy and have chosen to stay flat.
Thank you ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Good Evening Alisa. I have just joined and am drafting my 1st bodice. ?? how far down from the bust do I place my waist line.
Fran, hello there and thank you for joining! - at 5:30 in this video we start by placing a straight line from the neck to the waist and then we find our bust by dividing it in half. If you want precise result - follow fitted bodice block tutorial here - ruclips.net/video/aJ6Stv9b8k0/видео.html
@@ThoughtfulCreativity
I’ll start with this video and get someone to look over my shoulder to make sure I don’t go wrong. Thanks again for all your help. Good night!
Watching till end of this tutorial dartless bodice
Hello, my lovely friend? you look amazing and gorgeous at profile photo. I wish I can be a good friend to you
I am a member of your wonderful channel but I don’t see the worksheets that you are showing for the measurements and directions for the dartless bodice block in Drive.
Hello there! I just checked for you - they are all there :) here's how to get them
1)go to Google Drive for Members
2) you will see 4 folders, click on the "Instruction sheets for garments"
3) you can sort out the files in google drive in ABC order, and there are only two files that start with D letter and those are "Diamond sweater" and "Dartless Bodice block".
I hope this helps and thank you so much for being a Member :)
@@ThoughtfulCreativity I found it! I just couldn't see it on my phone. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. I tried it and the practice cami was too tight on the armholes and chest. Should I add the seam allowance on the practice cami
You should always add seam allowances, that is the space necessary for the constructions of the seam. If you did not add seam allowances and sewed up you garment let's say with a 3/8" seam allowance then you took away 3/8" off of each pattern piece, so your final garment measurement is now 3/9"x4 smaller that you drafted.
Hi i just joined your membership....how can i download the Instructions sheets?
Hello there, Anita! You can find all Members Perks, including the link to the google drive on the Membership tab on my channel. Alternatively there are link to all perks underneath all Members Extra videos, like this one - ruclips.net/video/kdPlwAxpi8I/видео.html the link that you want is marked "GOOGLE DRIVE" and then just click on the folder that says "instruction sheets" :)
How do you know that half of back shoulder to waistline equals your back bustline?
Could this be modified to include princess seams?
I have a HUUUGE favor to ask!
Can you give me some guidance on how to draft one of those high neck gathered tops? They usually have a small ruffle at the neck. I can email you an image if you need to see what I'm talking about. I want to make one of these tops but think I could draft one myself. There aren't many good tutorials on how to do this. I think I saw where you would use a peasant style top then gather the neckline in but I'm not sure?? Any advice appreciated!!
Have you tried looking cosplay steampunk tutorials?
Please don’t apologise for the cat-i think that’s gorgeous!❤
Someone help!! I've tried making these kind of bodice blocks many times, but I can never get the armhole right🥲 My shoulders are quite broad and my bust is very small, so it is smaller than the circumference of my armpit and shoulder. The line in the pattern for my bust is significantly shorter than the shoulder line, and it makes the sleeve not work?? It has a weird shape and if I were to make a garment with it, it wouldn't even reach around to form sleeves.... Do I use my armpit to armpit- measurement instead of bust since my body is wider there? Or is there another solution?? Thankful for help!!!♥️♥️
Merci👍😍
I have a question about where may I find paper large enough for pattern drafting?
Open the description of this video, and scroll down - I have a link to the paper I use.
Shoulder slope ....I have very "square" shoulders. Will this address this. Usually my commercial clothes "float" around my neck? Thank you
Then go to my standard "bodice block with darts" tutorial and do everything as needed.
Hi im philipina
Hi from ankara. I can't find the sleeve. Thanks
Hello there, it is in the description of the video :)
question. howcome the front pattern (shoulder part) is higher than the back? ive seen some drafted the back pattern is higher than the front pattern ?
Because my front high point shoulder is higher... It can go either way.
Hello again. Do you use other apps for drawing your diagrams? Im trying to get into the Templates for Members only.... seems I'm lost, because they wont come up???
Fran, hello there! I just use RUclips and Google drive. Let me ask you - "they won't come up" as in - you see the folders on Google Drive but they open empty? Here's how to find all link for Members perks:
Once you have joined - head over to the MEMBERSHIP tab on my channel homepage to get the links to all of your perks! You will need to click on green "click to show perks" and the list will open up.
ALSO - head to the Community tab to see latest Members Only Sneak Peek and additional info - Apple users, here you will find Members Extra videos posted. Click on any of the Members Extra videos and go the info box to that video - all Members Perks are listed there. Yay! :)
IF you clicked on the Google DRIVE link and all you see is 4 folders but you can't open them or you open them and they are empty (usually happens to Apple users) then you most likely have to clean your cache or enable some functions on your Ipad. Everything is working, all things are available. You just need to google for possible answers and see why google drive isn't displayed correctly on your device, it does not happen to every Ipad, but unfortunately I can't help you more as I am not an Ipad user. I have asked my friend to double check it for me - and Google Drive opens up smooth on her Ipad.
How to join the membership
I am trying to become a member, but don’t see how. Can someone give me the link to this. Thank you.
Hello there! Thank you for being interested, there are 2 ways: you should see a "join" button next to "subscribe" button right underneath the video, you can also click on my channel name and you should see a "join"button on my home page or the 3rd way, I usually leave a link for.it in the infobox as well, so check it out. Thanks again! :)
I do subscribe , but I thought there was a way to join by paying something, then getting access to your patterns.
@@audreytallant1 yes, you should see a "join" button next to "subscribe" button, that's where that function is at. Subscribing is a regular function, join is a paid function. If you don't see that button just follow the other 2 ways I have outlined above. Hope this helps!
here's the link to join ( I got to my computer to copy/paste this, could not do it from my phone) - ruclips.net/channel/UCAZLjiEbsPpUBu_IDvztMsAjoin
Does it make sense that my Back Waist Length is 18" and my Shoulder Slop of Back is 21"? That is a difference of 3" which means I would move my G2 line up 3". If I do that my shoulder seam of 4.5" is almost perpendicular (on a really steep slope \ )to that G Line . I hope that makes sense. I'm sorry I am having such a hard time figuring this out
You can take a straight ruler, put it perpendicular to your spine, at the base of your neck. The distance between the ruler and your shoulder (at the edge of your shoulder) is a shoulder slope. Here's is a video of a bodice block with darts, with a slightly different method of drafting, you can see if that helps you understand/measure/draft easier. You don't have to do the darts (without darts you will have a gaping armhole) just watch the method - ruclips.net/video/aJ6Stv9b8k0/видео.html
Remember that the pattern that you are drafting reflects your body, so if the pattern as of right now has a shoulder seam that is almost perpendicular to your neck, then take a look in the mirror - are your shoulders perpendicular to your neck? The pattern and the body go hand in hand. If your shoulders are not perpendicular then something is off somewhere. It is not uncommon to take wrong measurements, shoulder slope is one of them.
Usually, shoulder slope is about 1.5-2", but it really depends on an individual. Your shoulders can also be uneven, which sometimes can get people off track, mine are uneven (one is higher than the other) and I don't draft left side different from the right side.
hi Alisa I followed the instructions but the ease in my sleeve seems a lot to try get in do i pleat it between the ease Marks or is it supposed to go in flat also my neck seems bit high and very loose around the neck I did the 2 1/2 inches like you so do bn I just cut down more to suit me thank you I am bigger than you so bit confused
Great, always remember that your final result depends on a variety of factors, and it is totally normal to do adjustments and a few fittings. SLEEVE - 1) decrease the ease - I speak about it in the sleeve video 2) do research on how to ease in woven sleeve
BODICE - 1) loose neck/across chest is usually due to incorrect back shoulder width and shoulder seam measurement - double check it, reduce if needed. If back fits great, then you might reduce front shoulder width (in the video we made it 1/4" shorter than back, you might want to shorten it a bit more) . Also make sure your shoulder slope measurement is correct 2) since this is dart-less bodice block it will not fit tight, as it has no darts 3) if you have large bust - you will most likely need a bodice with dart for appropriate fit.
@@ThoughtfulCreativity thank you ALISA I WILL TRY ALL THAT
Hi Alisa, I click the button to join the membership, but it just takes me to the Homepage, I can’t seem to find where to do the paid membership. Sorry, a bit of help please. Xx Suz
Hi, I could not find the join button either but it was because I was using my iPad. (Not available on iPhone or iPad) It is clearly there when I used my PC. Hope that helps.
Thanks so much
Hello Alisa. How would I adjust the chest measurement to my pattern. On my shirts (which I have tried to make) I always end up with a 1/2" gap on my chest. I would assume that my chest is smaller than what my bustline is... ??? Thanks in advance.
Fran, let me clarify - do you mean upper bust? And what gap are you referring to?
@@ThoughtfulCreativity Yes. it’s the above the bust measurement. In the upper, middle of my chest it always ends up being too loose. Always by about 1/4”-1/2”.
Fran, hello there, I ma not sure if I am going to be up much longer, here's the thing - woven bodice block without dart is never going to fit super tight as that is not possible due to the curves of our body and the fact that the fabric/pattern has to accommodate for that. Darts - the tool really fit the patter to our bodies. Dartless blocks are possible, but something has to give, you will have that "dart" amount somewhere, it might be in form of a little "pocket" of fabric, might be a little gap or extra width, but that's the reality of woven blocks without darts in most cases. If you want a fitted result - follow the woven bodice block with darts tutorial, you can find it on my channel and I gave you the link for it yesterday under your previous comment. About upper bust measurement - any measurements that are on your body will correspond to the measurements of your paper pattern. So think this way - if I need to find where is my upper bust I would measure from High point shoulder to where my upper bust is at, then just place this measurement on your paper pattern, from high point shoulder straight line down with whatever measurement you recorded. Now you found where is your upper bust - across will be the circumference, so measure the circumference and place that on the pattern. Pattern reflects your body, think about it like looking in the mirror - what and where it is on your body - that's how you mark it on the pattern. I hope this helps!
Ah, I see, if your talking about a gaping neckline it is usually the shoulder width. Your shoulders on the back have a curve as they are pitched forward, therefore if you measure shoulder in the front the measurement is about 1/2" smaller than the same measurement taken in the back, at 10:00 in this tutorial we account for that. Make sure that you make a muslin first to see any fit issues and work them out if needed. Here's Members Extra for this bodice block - ruclips.net/video/CCd-OP1a2xI/видео.html
@@ThoughtfulCreativity Thanks for this. Time for bed for everyone I think. Tomorrow will get all the info together and take it from there. Thanks for all your help. 🤗
how to be a member?
How do I join I see no link
where do i find the instruction sheet for this
Hello there and welcome! Here's how, please watch this video till the end, and then open the description box underneath it and follow the instructions to find all links for Members Perks, including Instruction Sheets - ruclips.net/video/uP9qSamkVkk/видео.html
Hi alisa 😘 I am not English but if there is a text , i can translate it with the help of a dictionary . show me a text if possible . thank you ❤
Can you show your number detail?
Can someone tell me where the instruction sheets are?
Marisa, hello there and welcome. All perks, including the Google Drive link where you will find all Instructions sheets, are on the Membership tab on my channel. Watch this video till the VERY END (very important) and you will see how to find your perks, it is very easy - ruclips.net/video/uP9qSamkVkk/видео.html
@@ThoughtfulCreativity I found them after I signed in thanks.