Once again you have produced an excellent tutorial! The things you explained finally clicked into place of why certain things never worked out when using commercial patterns or even attempting to "redraft" them to fit me. I can't wait for the next installment.
Superb content, as usual! Tons of technical (and other) details I really appreciate. I like to understand how and why of garment construction and you explain it wonderfully. Your system is a jewel compared to other's I've tried. Mostly because it is truly based on my measurements without need to adjust patterns again after drafting them from scratch. I got you bodice booklet a while ago and I'm sure it let me draft new improved block compared to my old "standard' one. Thank you very much and please keep posting more 🙂 PS I'm stealing you back pleat patent for sure!
Standard body shape is rare. Most of people are completely out of shape. Clothes made to fit all make someone look frumpy. Fitted garment is a beautiful thing.
Thank you so much for a very helpful video! In fact, all your videos are so helpful to me as I struggle to construct a bodice sloper that fits me well. I have tried many different methods and I have never been very happy with the outcome as my shape is not standard - I am very short from shoulder to bust and also bust to waist. My hips are small in proportion to my waist, and throw in narrow shoulders but a broad back, and it is a bit of a nightmare! Once I have a well fitted bodice, sleeve and skirt sloper, I would love to see how you modify them to create all the variations in style you have highlighted. Thanks again for providing an amazing resource!
Hello Lia I haven't posted for a while, but my first video back (hopefully the end of this month), will be a pattern. (So I won't be getting back to the Variation on a Silhouette series for a while, at least not in order). The first pattern I will be making is the Lina Dress, shown on my Instagram account: instagram.com/dresspatternmaking/
My problem is designing to fit my back, and sleeves. I have a dowager's hump with rounded shoulders. If you can post a video for such a problem, it would probably be a great help, for me and many other older women.
What a useful channel! Do you have any recommendations for puckering at the dart points? I am making a bodice pattern with a side seam + waistline dart going towards the bust point. From my basic block pattern I drafted two darts that stop approximately 2-3 cm before the bust point (rather than ending at the bust point), but now i have puckers at the dart points. So frustrating! I already am doing all the necessary things I know (ironing/steaming, tieing a hand knot at the end, ending at the dart point, sewing tiny stitches at the end, etc...) If you have ANY advice whatsover, I'd love to hear it. So frustrating when after 4-5 toiles it still doesn't look 100% right ugh!
Hi Simon, sorry it's delayed. I'm doing the skirts videos first, then finish the wrap top. I am finding there is too much information for one video, and they result in very long videos which are problematic for a number of reasons. Anyway, I'll get to it as soon as I can.
Here is a list to the Videos in this series (Variations on a Silhouette) Only 4 videos so far: (1) Contouring ruclips.net/video/IEsOqbW7ouM/видео.html (2) Empire Bodice This video (3) A-line Skirt ruclips.net/video/-YDSVIIV1kU/видео.html (4) 6 Panel Skirt ruclips.net/video/VRE-GxzktfY/видео.html
Thanks for this detailed tutorial you are my favourite pattern drafting instructor😍 Just wondering🤔 When will you drop the crossover bodice video? I'm presently working on crossover designs I used Helen Joseph Armstrong instructions and I am not really satisfied with the outcome, I'm guessing it might be because I'm not a standard figure. I have been checking your channel every Sunday to see if you have uploaded the crossover bodice video😄😄 I am pretty sure I will find solutions to my issues in your videos so I have put the sewing project for my crossover designs (also known as wrap designs) on hold waiting eagerly for your tutorial on this 🥰 Thank you very much 🤩
Unfortunately I've had a lot of things taking priority over my RUclips channel this last year. I'm still a month or two away from having the time to create more content. Sorry about that, chances are that in meantime you've found that information elsewhere.
Hi, at 5:10 re the didi dress form cover; it has shoulder princess line panels, BUT also has a curved seam under each breast mound. Im drafting a moulage pattern in order to make a dress form cover which will be stuffed. This will be used as a mannequin. How do you transfer some of the dart excess on a moulage draft to that under mound seam line? Its not quite an empire line which runs horizontally across, so Im unsure of how to pattern the curved seam.
Hi Maria, I'm sorry if I missed something but I was wondering why you haven't used the contour guideline 3 (shoulder tip gape dart) on your block. You have used the armhole gape dart instead. Is it because of your personal preference or some other reason?
Hello Hira... Just personal preference. The main take-away from my Contouring video is that you need to understand why gaping occurs and how to fix it. If you understand that, and understand that not everyone can use the 'standard amounts and how to work out your own contouring, then... you should be fine. You can apply the theory strictly if you want but I don't always do so. (It's essential to know the rules AND to have a good understanding of the why/wherefores of the rules, after that you can break them if you wish, at your own peril of course).
Hi Simon, I only have 2 booklets : the Bodice Block & Pants Block. They are the same instructions and graphics that are in the Bodice & Pants videos, but they allow people to go at their own pace. I think there are links to the booklets in the descriptions of those videos. I am hoping to get some dresses up soon.
Once again you have produced an excellent tutorial! The things you explained finally clicked into place of why certain things never worked out when using commercial patterns or even attempting to "redraft" them to fit me. I can't wait for the next installment.
Hello Cris... Working on the Skirts Video now. Can't say when it will be up, but working on it... (The ease video will be out of order...)
Thank you so much teacher for this dress video tutorial. Hope to see more video tutorials. God bless you and your family. Sri Lanka. 🌸🌸🌸🌺🌺🌺🌺🌹🌹🌹🌹🌷🌷🌷🌷
Thank you too, for your kind words.
I really love your videos. They are always so easy to follow and you explain everything so clearly. Thank you for your channel.
Hi Betty, you are most welcome!
So much information! I love the way you teach!
Hello Maria its so good to see a video from you. Its top quality in instruction as usual.
Thank you! 😃 I am wanting to put them up much quicker.....
Hi ireally love your video thanks
Thanks for watching!
Superb content, as usual! Tons of technical (and other) details I really appreciate. I like to understand how and why of garment construction and you explain it wonderfully. Your system is a jewel compared to other's I've tried. Mostly because it is truly based on my measurements without need to adjust patterns again after drafting them from scratch.
I got you bodice booklet a while ago and I'm sure it let me draft new improved block compared to my old "standard' one. Thank you very much and please keep posting more 🙂
PS
I'm stealing you back pleat patent for sure!
Thank you Anna. I am yet again behind in what I had said I would do, but life gets in the way. I really do hope to post more regularly next year.
Standard body shape is rare.
Most of people are completely
out of shape.
Clothes made to fit all make
someone look frumpy.
Fitted garment is a beautiful thing.
As always: outstanding tutorial!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for a very helpful video! In fact, all your videos are so helpful to me as I struggle to construct a bodice sloper that fits me well. I have tried many different methods and I have never been very happy with the outcome as my shape is not standard - I am very short from shoulder to bust and also bust to waist. My hips are small in proportion to my waist, and throw in narrow shoulders but a broad back, and it is a bit of a nightmare! Once I have a well fitted bodice, sleeve and skirt sloper, I would love to see how you modify them to create all the variations in style you have highlighted. Thanks again for providing an amazing resource!
Hello Lia
I haven't posted for a while, but my first video back (hopefully the end of this month), will be a pattern. (So I won't be getting back to the Variation on a Silhouette series for a while, at least not in order).
The first pattern I will be making is the Lina Dress, shown on my Instagram account:
instagram.com/dresspatternmaking/
My problem is designing to fit my back, and sleeves. I have a dowager's hump with rounded shoulders. If you can post a video for such a problem, it would probably be a great help, for me and many other older women.
❤🎉the ever so best tutorial played it twice and very helpful hoping there is a booklet as well for this illustration 😊
Thank you for such a detailed video. Enjoyed watching and inspired.
You are so welcome!
The dart manipulation graphic at 8:40 is gold!
Thank you.
Thank you again!
My pleasure...
What a useful channel! Do you have any recommendations for puckering at the dart points? I am making a bodice pattern with a side seam + waistline dart going towards the bust point. From my basic block pattern I drafted two darts that stop approximately 2-3 cm before the bust point (rather than ending at the bust point), but now i have puckers at the dart points.
So frustrating! I already am doing all the necessary things I know (ironing/steaming, tieing a hand knot at the end, ending at the dart point, sewing tiny stitches at the end, etc...)
If you have ANY advice whatsover, I'd love to hear it. So frustrating when after 4-5 toiles it still doesn't look 100% right ugh!
thank you so much for this detailed explanation i have learned so much
You're very welcome!
Thank you so much for detailed tutorial. I appreciate if you posting back deep neck drafting thank you
Waiting patiently for the wrap top.
Hi Simon, sorry it's delayed. I'm doing the skirts videos first, then finish the wrap top. I am finding there is too much information for one video, and they result in very long videos which are problematic for a number of reasons. Anyway, I'll get to it as soon as I can.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thanks you.
Here is a list to the Videos in this series (Variations on a Silhouette) Only 4 videos so far:
(1) Contouring
ruclips.net/video/IEsOqbW7ouM/видео.html
(2) Empire Bodice
This video
(3) A-line Skirt
ruclips.net/video/-YDSVIIV1kU/видео.html
(4) 6 Panel Skirt
ruclips.net/video/VRE-GxzktfY/видео.html
Thanks for this detailed tutorial you are my favourite pattern drafting instructor😍
Just wondering🤔
When will you drop the crossover bodice video?
I'm presently working on crossover designs I used Helen Joseph Armstrong instructions and I am not really satisfied with the outcome, I'm guessing it might be because I'm not a standard figure.
I have been checking your channel every Sunday to see if you have uploaded the crossover bodice video😄😄 I am pretty sure I will find solutions to my issues in your videos so I have put the sewing project for my crossover designs (also known as wrap designs) on hold waiting eagerly for your tutorial on this 🥰 Thank you very much 🤩
Unfortunately I've had a lot of things taking priority over my RUclips channel this last year. I'm still a month or two away from having the time to create more content. Sorry about that, chances are that in meantime you've found that information elsewhere.
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. I have a doubt, why is the bust dart not moved into the waist dart?
It doesn't make any difference. It will end up the same.
How do you get the bust mould measurement accurately for a figure like yours that is for a larger bust
Hello Cilla, that is covered in the Contouring video.
Hi, at 5:10 re the didi dress form cover; it has shoulder princess line panels, BUT also has a curved seam under each breast mound. Im drafting a moulage pattern in order to make a dress form cover which will be stuffed. This will be used as a mannequin. How do you transfer some of the dart excess on a moulage draft to that under mound seam line? Its not quite an empire line which runs horizontally across, so Im unsure of how to pattern the curved seam.
Hi Maria, I'm sorry if I missed something but I was wondering why you haven't used the contour guideline 3 (shoulder tip gape dart) on your block. You have used the armhole gape dart instead. Is it because of your personal preference or some other reason?
Hello Hira... Just personal preference. The main take-away from my Contouring video is that you need to understand why gaping occurs and how to fix it. If you understand that, and understand that not everyone can use the 'standard amounts and how to work out your own contouring, then... you should be fine. You can apply the theory strictly if you want but I don't always do so. (It's essential to know the rules AND to have a good understanding of the why/wherefores of the rules, after that you can break them if you wish, at your own peril of course).
Muchas gracias por el vídeo!!!
No hay de que.
How can I order your guides? What is available for purchase?
Hi Simon, I only have 2 booklets : the Bodice Block & Pants Block. They are the same instructions and graphics that are in the Bodice & Pants videos, but they allow people to go at their own pace. I think there are links to the booklets in the descriptions of those videos. I am hoping to get some dresses up soon.