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Class ab sounds warmer at least in my headphones

I have tested both for my home stereo setup. I was hyped for my new class d amplifier since I am open to new tech and liked the idea of a lower electric bill. Also there are so many pseudo audiophiles on yt and old farts so I don't buy when they talk bad about every new thing. Since class d is newer and Yamaha knows a thing or two about hifi, I expected it to be at least as good as my old Yamaha ab amplifier. No. Ab is better. The class d amplifier is much smaller but very strong. No problems with big speakers. But the quality is lacking. Sounds like every PA system.

What kind of flux is best for this? It is acidic?

Thanks for the video!

Do not use a screwdriver to prep the battery use empty cloth or sand paper

Hey bro, on isntagram i have seen some reels that would automatically increase the brightness when scrolled on it. And I have heard reddit saying that it's becasue those videos are using in HDR modes, so if like your example the videos converted by HDR in this way, it would also have features like them too?

The transients on the D were faster and sharper. But if I was listening at home and not on ATC's I'd prefer the AB to relax too.

I can't install this program... "Download failed Download failed: Unable to establish connection with the server Check your connection and click "Retry" to try downloading the files again, or click “Cancel to terminate setup." What to do?

class D sounds crystal clear

If you have a 9V battery, just take a screwdriver, snap the pin heads off the battery and solder with the surface beneath it

Thank you for this excellent video - I must say that I am fan of Class AB vs. Class D though. I have (among many other amps) a Crown XLS 1002 (class D) rated at 215 wpc at 8 ohms vs a Crown CE1000 (class AB) rated at 275 wpc at 8 ohms. Both amps are rated at 1KHz with 1 percent THD so the ratings are stretched. I figure the XLS 1002 can realistically put out ~ 185 wpc and the CE1000 around 229 wpc continuous sine wave power. The CE 1000 still sounds better and stronger despite the negligible difference in dB output.

Unfair comparison...... Tda7294 100watt vs unkown class d possibly 2x40 watt tpa3116 You should have

Options for Avisynth are not as presented. Thanks anyway, but this is useless.

Interesting. I've been doing the same with Avidemux but I'll have to look at Hybrid to see if it's any better. Thanks for the informative tutorial.

LOVE the voice!

im aware of the petty shadow banning of comments, while you may feel empowered by your ability to do so, that channel owners often misuse, eventually people will find a way around that, and i have screen shot your comments and so people will see the truth

Class AB crushes the Class D amp, IMHO. This when listening through my HEK Stealths.....

Thank you Mister DaGoose 🙂👍

When it comes to more serious listening it seems class AB is better. But I am very interested in class D efficiency in low power applications. Sometimes you are looking for just a 5W max amplifier that can tune in radio listening which is in itself not high def anyway. Class D has its place imo.

I am still watching but something did not make sense. "If it is rough or not smooth" then you need to use something to scratch marks into it to make it more rough.. what?

Thank you

AB

thank you for this solution

Class A and Class AB amplifier + Aux connection ❤👌 ( Bluetooth is a bad audio quality )🤢🤮

class d for subwoofer A/B class should be used for midrange speakers👍

Thank you Bro👍

Please chapter the video for easier comparisons.

How to convert HDR to SDR

Why is HDR darker?

yep am patching my prn videos into 60fps great 👍

Frankly, I couldn't find much difference. I think people are having mass hysteria when they talk about sounds. Presence of some low level noise is not perceptible unless you "meditate" on it. Psychoacoustically, most people are merely subjective when offering their opinions. I don't think a faint white noise would make a fuss.

There is no objective standard that can be used to convince someone that one system is " better" than the other due to the fact that ALL sound experienced in the brain is subjective . Yes we can use general consensus and electronic measurements to play the "Best " game but it eventually ends with , the best systems is the one YOU like the most .

Il suono dipende quasi esclusivamente dagli altoparlanti. Ho una coppia di AR M1 pilotate da un poccolo amplificatore in classe D. Forse è stato un caso, forse sono fortunato ma un suono così pulito e presente non lo avevo ancora provato. Saluti da Roma.

I’m listening through a/b headphones, a/b sounds warmer rounder but less impactful, d sounds boxy more solid but slightly sharper. D has that modern output which suits corporate and movies where a/b suits quiet listening and softer experiences

I’m old school. Got seriously into audio in the early 80s. So, naturally my auditory system is conditioned to the sonic characteristics of AB amplification. That having been said, I have heard some excellent sounding class D amps. Which may even fool me in a blind A-B test, forgive the deliberate pun. But currently my amplification is AB and I’ve no plans to make any changes. But, never say never.

I prefer the Class AB architecture. The LM3886 is an amazing amp IC. ST Microelectronics makes great class AB amplifiers chips too.

we need the punch of the D and the clean and warm sound of the AB. ABD? 😄

Biggest problem with class d amps is that they limit current so the music is not able to flow making it sound compressed

Is AB sound Louder ,Open and Fresh and the D is Low soundless and faded ?

Class AB is the winner in sound quality and fidelity aspect, class D is more compact, thus it need less power or has more efficiency but the sound is less realistic.

i just made it 401 likes

As far as sound, I listened through headphones and most of the time I couldn’t hear a difference. During the combined test, the left side had more bass. I listened to it twice to be sure, and then flipped the headphones around left to right just to ensure my own hearing wasn’t the issue. The bass moved to the right side when I flipped them. The only thing I can conclude is either the class D amp made the bass stronger, or the audio track was recorded with bass on the left instead of centered, which is not normally the case. Also the hiss test, I could definitely tell the class A/B amp was significantly quieter.

the moment you said that the gains were set 1dB different I stopped listening.

scam my mac already meet the requirement

is it supposed to be pronounced "gewey" or G U I ?

From my experience with amplifiers, the background noise can be reduced significantly by grounding the power supply, and keeping the input signal line as far away from the power supply line as possible, good grounding is essential so don't daisy chain the ground wires...

Amplifiers: The controversy over tubes vs solid state presists. When response, modulation distortion and transient intermodulation distortion are below certain levels (< 1%) there should be no audible difference. Speaker wires: It can be solid, stranded, copper, oxygen free copper, silver, etc.--or even "magic" wire--as long as the resistance is kept to be less than 5% of the speaker impedance. There is no listening difference as long as the wire is of adequate size. Bear in mind, a well-designed amplifier will not have a problem with any of these wires. CD players: In the 1980's, people spoke of experiencing "no air" and "aggression" while listening to digital recordings. Today we understand the principles which are fundamental to this phenomenon, we name it Jitter, we test it, calculate it and dress it with numbers, systemize it and describe it entirely. Jitter has always been and still is the worst enemy of the digital audio format. And today it is understood. Fact: Digital audio data is 'just' 0's and 1's. There may be many formats (.wav, .aif, CD-audio) but the information is still digital. There is no loss during format conversion, provided the formats don't utilize compression. Fact: Copying CD's (if they aren't damaged physically) is a lossless procedure. You can extract CD-audio with your computer and generate a file on your hard disk. Compare this file with the file created when you extract the same audio using a $30,000 player, the resulting two files are identical. The question which naturally arises out of this paradox is: why does the $30,000 player sound better? Before we answer that question, let us first understand that at the Digital Out of a $100 CD-player we have the same 1's and 0's as we do in the $30,000 player. The only difference is in the Jitter content. Jitter only means that the data (the 1's and the 0's) is not perfectly time-aligned, but is transmitted either slightly earlier or later than it should be in the ideal case. However, this time flaw is not as great as to cause a digital error (data fallout). Now if you know that, then you must ask: so why does one CD-transport cost much more than another? Ah, Jitter. The cheap ones shake and the expensive ones don't. Well, that's true. The entire audio business of CD transports and DACs is built on the totally backward setup of the CD player containing the Master Clock and the DAC being the Slave. This results in the entire palette of innovations to lessen Jitter, starting from air drives to expensive digital cable technologies with complex math to reduce line-induced Jitter, to very carefully filtered power supplies, to all sorts of very necessary things when you want to achieve the least possible Jitter. So we have the worst possible digital scenario bringing in the most possible amount of money, because it is extremely difficult to annihilate Jitter when the CD player is the Master Clock. If you're looking for quality, this is stupid, to say the least! The whole setup should be different. As is the standard case in any pro-audio studio, it is always the playing device, the DAC, which is the Master Clock. The clock is located right next to the converter chips. That way, no line induced Jitter can appear. This clock signal is then taken from the DAC device and is used as the clock input of the signal source device, say the computer, the DAT player, or the CD player. Yes, in that setup, the CD player is receiving a more jittered clock than the DAC is, but that doesn't matter, because the DAC is doing the audio playing. When the Jittered audio signal arrives at the DAC, it is quantized into place temporally and is then played, in perfect synch with the clock oscillator, which is right next to it. But oh! In that case, you can use a $100 CD-player with a very poor power supply, a digital cable made from your average household extension cord, and still get a better sound than you'd be getting if you spent $30,000 on the best transport and digital cable! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, this is the naked, uncensored, plain truth about CD players and DACs. Their Master/Slave relationship is BACKWARDS and their prices therefore HIGH. If you don't believe this, then all you need to do is record digitally your favorite tune from a $100 CD player into your computer (provided you have a soundcard and software that doesn't add yet more lies into the equation, which is often the case, so beware!) Then borrow the most expensive CD transport you can get your hands on and repeat the experiment. The resulting sound files aren't just similar, they are identical! But the $30,000 player sounds better! How do you get them to sound the same? You only need to slave the transports to a DAC in Digital Master Mode. That's it. Identical sound, guaranteed. The least possible Jitter. The least loss.

D is great for phone as a bluetooth

Спасибо человек

Class AB is the Best