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After manually unlocking, are you moving forward? The Manual hubs will stay engaged until you back up a little bit, it's just the way they are designed. If that doesn't unlock them, pull the vacuum hoses off the solenoid while they are engaged. You should hear air rush in. If you can reverse and they release, replace the solenoid in this video. All this solenoid does is allow a vacuum to be put on the hubs. When you move the selector in the cab to 2wd, it allows ambient air in to release the hubs. Since you are manually locking your hubs as mentioned in your comment, you might check the lines from the pump to the solenoid, and then solenoid to the hubs. They are plastic emissions type hoses that love to crack.

@@USAF99 Thank you for your extremely fast reply. After manually unlocking the hubs yes I moved forward. I also moved in reverse and the hubs stayed in the locked position. I would pull the hoses off to check to see if I hear air rush in but, it’s almost 3AM and we just experienced hurricane Helene moving through north central Fla. where I live and we are still experiencing 25-35 MPH constant winds so I wouldn’t be able to hear any air noise as it’s rather noisy from the tropical force winds. I’m totally unfamiliar with the pump you refer to. That said I could follow the plastic air lines back to the pump in order to inspect to see if there are any cracked lines. FWIW, I’ve always been under the assumption that in order to engage/disengage 4 wheel low, that the hubs have to be manually engaged/disengaged. Are you implying that my truck should be able to engage/disengage 4 wheel low w/o having to manually lock and unlock the hubs? Thanking you in advance!

@@shakin_jakewilson5247 No worries, having lived in the panhandle of FL, I know your plight. I was stationed at Eglin. Be safe! So, if you have these parts, then yes, you should be able to shift in and out of 4WD auto and low sitting in your driver seat. If it has never worked, either the vacuum seal in one or the other hub is leaking, the plastic lines are shot or the pump/solenoid is shot. When you turn the key on, you should hear your fuel pump and a little buzzing up near the engine compartment fuse box (behind degas bottle, mounted over the fuse box). If you don't, start troubleshooting the little air pump. If that works, but isn't engaging/disengaging, troubleshoot the solenoid mentioned in this video. Remember, it might be as simple as a fuse.

@@USAF99 thank you for all of the tips you provided. Yeah, you’re right, either the solenoid is not working correctly or, I have a vacuum leak somewhere, a chore I do not relish investigating. That said I found an answer (or workaround) which was revealed to me from BC Cruiser over on the diesel stop forum. I posted a query over there too and he told me to shift into neutral and the transaxle will jump out of the locked mode my truck found itself in. I read his reply at 3 AM over the past weekend so I opened the truck, then I had to set the parking brake as where I had parked, was on an incline. So with the motor running (IIRC) I shifted into park and sure enough, I could hear something unlocking. I can’t tell you if the sound (pop) I heard was both hub actuators unlocking in unison or what but the yellow 4 wheel low light ceased to be illuminated and the truck was no longer stuck in 4 wheel low. Hallelujah!, I had a roadworthy truck again. It doesn’t bother me that I have to manually lock and unlock the hubs into and out of 4 wheel low, I can live with that but what I don’t understand (which is okay) is why that I have to go into neutral now to get out of 4 wheel low whereas prior to up to now, I never had to shift into neutral to get it to pop out of 4 wheel low. I guess it’s going to have to be a mystery to me but I’m okay with that. So long as I can go into and out of 4 wheel low, I’m fine with that. Thank you once again USAF99 for all of your help, it’s truly been much appreciated

@@prestonheimbach2087 they are regular hydraulic o rings. Came with the HB.

Apples and oranges compared to this differential.

The brakes shouldn't ever fail because of the Hydroboost. It's merely a hydraulic assist, meaning less foot force to do the same work. If the HB has failed, it will just take more pressure on the pedal to stop. If the HB fails catastrophically and there's Power Steering fluid leaking everywhere, you'll most likely destroy the PS pump and have no power steering. Both should work, however, more difficult to use.

@@USAF99 that seems to be my problem. The brakes work it just takes more there is no assist. But the steering seems normal. So should be the hydro boost. Hope so because I already bought the hydro boost. Thanks for making the video, gives me a good idea. My truck is a 2009 Ford f250 with a 6.4.

The meat and taters of this job is showing how to set up the tool and how to get to the point of pressing the joint in and out. Actually showing pressing a ball joint in and out is redundant.

It "SHOULD" be. I'm hesitant to say yes as I can't see your truck...obviously.

I forgot to say Duramax 6.6

Pretty much watch the videos on my channel. That sounds like a cheap reply, but I am after the same thing with my 6.4. I just turned 200k on it, and it runs like brand new. These motors get a bad rap because little johnny doesn't change his oil and fuel filters. You're kind of limited as to what you can remove as your truck will be on public roads. As mine is a farm truck, I can get rid of all the emissions crap that kills these motors.

As soon as I type this, you move it in closer 😂 my bad 😂👌🏽

If you want quick and obtainable, the box stores sell a Doorman 600402, the vacuum control solenoid. It's right up on the right side core support/radiator area, very easy to access. Or you can go to the ford house and ask them for the 4x4 vacuum control solenoid.

The 6” fit was already instaed on one when I bought it

Have you ever replaced the joints at the front wheels? They dry up and start popping. In Fords infinite wisdom, they made them sealed. Jack up the front, lock in hubs manually, have a helper steer through the range L/R while you spin the wheel. Feel for sticking or binding at any point during a turn. Both in the steering wheel and the actual front wheels. Or, just replace them, if you haven't it's probably time.

PS if you were smart you would have used the appropriate box wrench.😂😂😂 but I'm with you.

Also where the hoses went between the frame and the body use what I call a softener like somthing like a length of fire hose to run your lines through just to help stop chafing wearing your links through from the metal parts vibrating and rubbing against those lines. I know a few volunteer firefighters. So I can get my hands on some old pieces of fire hose but old tube rubber most tire shops will give you that. Then tap it around your lines zapstrap it all up should be good for years.👍

Great video thanks for your time

You can use Forscan or an Autel, I have done it with either. Just make sure you do it a few times, it's not a "one and done" type deal.