Even though this video is 3 years old I wanted to give a shout out and thank you for the content. I have to lift the cab on my 2010 F250 and had both of the front cab bolt capture nuts spin in the cages. Your pics showed the problem and how to solve it. Thank you for the vid!
I bought a complete kit off Amazon that had bolts and brackets as well as the mounts. I used a propane touch to heat the head of the bolts to loosen up the loctite. I wanted the S&B mounts until I seen the price. Great video!
Thanks for making this video. I had the same problem you had on the exact same side. I wasn’t able to figure out how you got a 22 mm wrench in the hole and on the nut. I just couldn’t get it at the right angle I guess so instead I took a 22 mm wrench and cut it down and made it only about 5 inches long and was able to stick it all the way in the hole and it get it on the nut. That actually worked out pretty well. Having the wrench down in that hole made it basically serve the same purpose as the cage nut and I didn’t have to hold the wrench while remove the bolt or reinstalling. The worst part for me was trying to open the cage wide enough to get the wrench in there. Thanks for the heads up on that nut being a 22 mm. That was valuable information.
Nice job - I don't mind the language, in fact, you sound like me, talking to myself while working on my 2008 6.4 - If you're not cussing, you're not working on a Ford.
(2010 Crew Cab) - Heat the bolts for 1 min with a propane torch to hit the factory blue Loctite. - Once the bolt is out if you cannot get the uppers separated from the lowers on the old mounts drill from the bottom with a 3/4" drill bit. - 6 of the 8 cage nuts were accessible from the cab. Used a 22mm socket to hold while loosened from underneath the truck. - For the two front body mounts, if the nut spins. Take out the headlight assembly. Flip over the rubber shield on the side of the radiator and locate the lock nut. There is a spot to put a 7/8 wrench (3” long) if you cut it in half. - Torque to 76 ft lbs - Very happy with the S&B mounts. Thanks for the recommendation, so didn't have to do this job twice.
Lol...never mind. I just saw your updated video. Thanks 👊. You stopped me from buying the hard plastic junk! Guess I'm fixin to shuck out $700 on the S&B kit
Yeah, I purposefully deleted the link off the description. And after seeing this comment, I am going to link the follow up video in hopes I save others from making my mistake.
@@USAF99 I went with S&B. Man, the difference is unbelievable. Truck feels as solid as it did when it was brand new! Thanks again for the videos!! It made me make the right decision
Hey man I’m planning on tackling this project this coming weekend on my 2012 superduty crew cab. Do you have to break all the bolts loose before lifting the body?
Highly recommended. You will have to lift the cab a few inches one side at a time. I suggest taking one side completely out and loosening the other so you don't break something.
Even though this video is 3 years old I wanted to give a shout out and thank you for the content. I have to lift the cab on my 2010 F250 and had both of the front cab bolt capture nuts spin in the cages. Your pics showed the problem and how to solve it. Thank you for the vid!
I bought a complete kit off Amazon that had bolts and brackets as well as the mounts. I used a propane touch to heat the head of the bolts to loosen up the loctite. I wanted the S&B mounts until I seen the price. Great video!
Lol
Thanks for making this video. I had the same problem you had on the exact same side. I wasn’t able to figure out how you got a 22 mm wrench in the hole and on the nut. I just couldn’t get it at the right angle I guess so instead I took a 22 mm wrench and cut it down and made it only about 5 inches long and was able to stick it all the way in the hole and it get it on the nut. That actually worked out pretty well. Having the wrench down in that hole made it basically serve the same purpose as the cage nut and I didn’t have to hold the wrench while remove the bolt or reinstalling. The worst part for me was trying to open the cage wide enough to get the wrench in there. Thanks for the heads up on that nut being a 22 mm. That was valuable information.
an offset box end wrench does the trick!
Thanks for the how to do it overview. Some of us need a visual. Good job
Nice job - I don't mind the language, in fact, you sound like me, talking to myself while working on my 2008 6.4 - If you're not cussing, you're not working on a Ford.
(2010 Crew Cab)
- Heat the bolts for 1 min with a propane torch to hit the factory blue Loctite.
- Once the bolt is out if you cannot get the uppers separated from the lowers on the old mounts drill from the bottom with a 3/4" drill bit.
- 6 of the 8 cage nuts were accessible from the cab. Used a 22mm socket to hold while loosened from underneath the truck.
- For the two front body mounts, if the nut spins. Take out the headlight assembly. Flip over the rubber shield on the side of the radiator and locate the lock nut. There is a spot to put a 7/8 wrench (3” long) if you cut it in half.
- Torque to 76 ft lbs
- Very happy with the S&B mounts. Thanks for the recommendation, so didn't have to do this job twice.
Exactly how mine went in. Thank you
Nice work.
Alexa got in the way lol
Hey, how you like those mounts? I replaced mine with S&B mounts, a lill pricy but sooooo well worth it. 🤙
What kit did you use? I didn't see a link for it in the comments. And thanks for the video. I'm gonna tryand tackle it myself.
Lol...never mind. I just saw your updated video. Thanks 👊. You stopped me from buying the hard plastic junk! Guess I'm fixin to shuck out $700 on the S&B kit
Yeah, I purposefully deleted the link off the description. And after seeing this comment, I am going to link the follow up video in hopes I save others from making my mistake.
@@USAF99 I went with S&B. Man, the difference is unbelievable. Truck feels as solid as it did when it was brand new! Thanks again for the videos!! It made me make the right decision
@@waynehampton196 Not a problem at all brother, that's why I do it!
Hey man I’m planning on tackling this project this coming weekend on my 2012 superduty crew cab. Do you have to break all the bolts loose before lifting the body?
Highly recommended. You will have to lift the cab a few inches one side at a time. I suggest taking one side completely out and loosening the other so you don't break something.
Thanks for the Vid, very informative 👍
All of mine are good except for the two fucking fronts. Wonder if I can change them out without taking them all loose
I believe my vocabulary would have been more adverse. Lol , I hate working on my truck.
Thankyou
4:43 lol 😂
Funny as hell
Must must use hear rookie mistake!
TOO Much profanity. will not watch any more
Well, sorry to see you go. 🤷♂️
@@USAF99 he’s obviously never replaced cab mount bushings.
Bye🙋♂️