This is by far the best video on Super Duty can mounts replacement on RUclips.it explains all of the options, even the Ford service manual, and shows most of them being tried. Of course, every truck will be different depending on its age and concision, but this video is the one I would recommend for getting the best info. Well done!
Did my 2013 F250 King Ranch and a world of difference. Took me 3 days to get it done working on it after work. My kit was the $300 silicone that works well and bought the Dorman bolts so far. Took the savings and installed Rough Country E-boards that are awesome for my short wife.
Just did mine. If you do it from the top/inside, I used small auto on propane torch. Burn the loctite off threads. After you crack it with a cheater bar from underneath, they come out like butter. If it gets hard, heat it again. PITA but fast once you get the carpet up and heat bolts from above, just to liquify loctite/threadlocker. Pain removing rear seat, popping panels but went smooth once I got access.
I love your approach and attitude! Thank you for the video, which I found after messing up one captive nut --- it's right behind the seat (2010 Plain Jane F250), and I can cut the bolt and pull it out from the top. The other 5 I fretted about a LOT after this and other posts. I have easy access to all of them though. I hit them with a air-acetylene torch (something EVERYONE needs to own) for about a minute and then used an impact wrench. All 5 others came out easily. And this is a Coastal Maine truck since 2012. Now I'm fretting a bit about removing the parts and installing the new ones..... two days ago replaced all the bed rails and shocks, looking forward to a better ride all around.
Just did mine today,on my 2011. For the core support mounts if you remove the grille there is enough room on both sides coming in from the front to sneak a brazing tip from on oxy acetelyne torch to get down in the support and heat those captive nuts. For the others just use a small breaker bar and common sense. dont need heat. just loosen then tighten back and forth in small increments until they free up. those bolts are pretty long for heat to travel up. And yes my truck is pretty rusty underneath.
I replaced my mounts with S&B bushings on my 2007 Ford f250. My truck was harder to do because you have to remove the seats and pull back carpet to get bolts out. It was a job, I had 2 bolts hard to remove, 0ne inside front frame next to the headlight, the other one was in the rear cab. You cannot use a impack, only a pry bar, did mine w/o heat just muscles. Gotter done December 2022 rides very smooth.👍
Thanks for this. Its been helpful in giving me some possible solutions. I've got a 2012 which spent the first 9 years in NY state so locktight is the least of my worries. I have the hot rod and heated the front drivers side until it was red hot, I thought I was setting fire to something the amount of smoke that came out of it! Then used an 18 inch breaker bar and spun the nut straight off. Same happened for three other bolts because the captive nut is rusted to the bolt in the frame. I think the only solution is to cut the head of the nut off and put out the bold and nut in one go. WIll mean removing the interior of the truck for the back three. The front ones I am going to try and get out through the frame but there isn't much room to work with. Outside of the EGR problems and exhaust sensors this is the worst things I have come across with Ford. Should be a six hour job, looks like its going to be a three dayer!
In earlier years one must remove the back seat and lift carpet under front seat to access the body mount bolts from above. This redesign supposedly is more convenient and less labor intensive, but obviously the captive nuts can make it harder. When I have money from oil & gas leases I plan to replace body mounts on my 2005 Super Duty and also install a front hitch receiver and winch since I likely will have to remove the bumper. My truck is diesel so I get it serviced at a tractor, bus and limo garage. They have assured me the job is very easy for them to accomplish but I expect to spend about $2K for labor, S & B mounts, hitch and winch plate. S & B mounts were unavailable during pandemic.
Just got my new S&B mounts in today for my 2011 F350. They just lowered the cost of them from $699 to $499 and they have a lifetime warranty. If one comes apart, S&B send you new mounts and pay for the replacement. I’m going to buy a Map Gas torch and heat each for a minute then remove by hand. Where did you Jack the cab up at? I heard putting a 4x4 piece of wood under the pinch weld and lifting it there is a good place.
Great video. About to tackle this job tomorrow. Noticed driver front side bolt is broken and passenger front bolt head is stripped. 😅. Seems to be a common problem on most videos.
Would you be able to show / state where you placed each on your lifting points under the cab? And did you do entire cab in 1 lift, or do 1 side at a time, or 1 corner at a time? Thx!
I have a lift, so I placed all four lift pads on the cab pinch welds, balanced from front and back. Yes I lifted the entire cab up about 2-3 inches, all at once. Hope this helps.
Congratulations!! Glad to hear you are getting much deserved compensation! I’m at 80% currently, and grateful but constantly working with VA to increase.
This is by far the best video on Super Duty can mounts replacement on RUclips.it explains all of the options, even the Ford service manual, and shows most of them being tried. Of course, every truck will be different depending on its age and concision, but this video is the one I would recommend for getting the best info. Well done!
Thank you for the kind words!
Loved the confidence at the beginning, that was my attitude at first too 😂😂😂
🤣😂🤣
Did my 2013 F250 King Ranch and a world of difference. Took me 3 days to get it done working on it after work. My kit was the $300 silicone that works well and bought the Dorman bolts so far.
Took the savings and installed Rough Country E-boards that are awesome for my short wife.
Just did mine. If you do it from the top/inside, I used small auto on propane torch. Burn the loctite off threads. After you crack it with a cheater bar from underneath, they come out like butter. If it gets hard, heat it again. PITA but fast once you get the carpet up and heat bolts from above, just to liquify loctite/threadlocker. Pain removing rear seat, popping panels but went smooth once I got access.
I love your approach and attitude! Thank you for the video, which I found after messing up one captive nut --- it's right behind the seat (2010 Plain Jane F250), and I can cut the bolt and pull it out from the top. The other 5 I fretted about a LOT after this and other posts. I have easy access to all of them though. I hit them with a air-acetylene torch (something EVERYONE needs to own) for about a minute and then used an impact wrench. All 5 others came out easily. And this is a Coastal Maine truck since 2012. Now I'm fretting a bit about removing the parts and installing the new ones..... two days ago replaced all the bed rails and shocks, looking forward to a better ride all around.
I hope you were able to complete your project. It is worth the pain...my truck rides like new now!
Just did mine today,on my 2011. For the core support mounts if you remove the grille there is enough room on both sides coming in from the front to sneak a brazing tip from on oxy acetelyne torch to get down in the support and heat those captive nuts. For the others just use a small breaker bar and common sense. dont need heat. just loosen then tighten back and forth in small increments until they free up. those bolts are pretty long for heat to travel up. And yes my truck is pretty rusty underneath.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing.
I think I need to replace mine. Thanks Rob I had no idea. Praying for rain.
It’s a tough job, but doable. Yes, rain is needed!!
I replaced my mounts with S&B bushings on my 2007 Ford f250. My truck was harder to do because you have to remove the seats and pull back carpet to get bolts out. It was a job, I had 2 bolts hard to remove, 0ne inside front frame next to the headlight, the other one was in the rear cab. You cannot use a impack, only a pry bar, did mine w/o heat just muscles. Gotter done December 2022 rides very smooth.👍
This video was extremely helpful! Thank you!!
I'm so glad to hear! It’s a tough job, but makes the truck ride like new..
Thanks for this. Its been helpful in giving me some possible solutions. I've got a 2012 which spent the first 9 years in NY state so locktight is the least of my worries. I have the hot rod and heated the front drivers side until it was red hot, I thought I was setting fire to something the amount of smoke that came out of it! Then used an 18 inch breaker bar and spun the nut straight off. Same happened for three other bolts because the captive nut is rusted to the bolt in the frame. I think the only solution is to cut the head of the nut off and put out the bold and nut in one go. WIll mean removing the interior of the truck for the back three. The front ones I am going to try and get out through the frame but there isn't much room to work with. Outside of the EGR problems and exhaust sensors this is the worst things I have come across with Ford. Should be a six hour job, looks like its going to be a three dayer!
Yep, it sucks! But I have to say, it rides like new now.
In earlier years one must remove the back seat and lift carpet under front seat to access the body mount bolts from above. This redesign supposedly is more convenient and less labor intensive, but obviously the captive nuts can make it harder. When I have money from oil & gas leases I plan to replace body mounts on my 2005 Super Duty and also install a front hitch receiver and winch since I likely will have to remove the bumper. My truck is diesel so I get it serviced at a tractor, bus and limo garage. They have assured me the job is very easy for them to accomplish but I expect to spend about $2K for labor, S & B mounts, hitch and winch plate. S & B mounts were unavailable during pandemic.
Just got my new S&B mounts in today for my 2011 F350. They just lowered the cost of them from $699 to $499 and they have a lifetime warranty. If one comes apart, S&B send you new mounts and pay for the replacement. I’m going to buy a Map Gas torch and heat each for a minute then remove by hand. Where did you Jack the cab up at? I heard putting a 4x4 piece of wood under the pinch weld and lifting it there is a good place.
That’s a great price! Good luck. Yes I jacked the cab on the pinch welds. Worked fine.
Great video. About to tackle this job tomorrow. Noticed driver front side bolt is broken and passenger front bolt head is stripped. 😅. Seems to be a common problem on most videos.
S&B says do not use impact wrenges on the bolts, hopefully you used S&B silicone mounts they are the best.
Would you be able to show / state where you placed each on your lifting points under the cab?
And did you do entire cab in 1 lift, or do 1 side at a time, or 1 corner at a time? Thx!
I have a lift, so I placed all four lift pads on the cab pinch welds, balanced from front and back. Yes I lifted the entire cab up about 2-3 inches, all at once. Hope this helps.
Thx 👍
Thanks for watching!
i have the same gun. didnt work. had to switch to a air gun. still working on it.
95% of chevy’s are still on the road today. The other 5% made it home
🤣
I’m a Ford man, but I’m also not in grade school anymore 🫤
kinda worried about your ring finger! had a buddy who yanked his finger off while working on a truck and his wedding ring caught an edge
Hey Rob I'm finally retired. I got 100% VA benefits!!!!!!!!
Congratulations!! Glad to hear you are getting much deserved compensation! I’m at 80% currently, and grateful but constantly working with VA to increase.