I would say nothing. Use OEM filters and don't try to "stretch" the time between changes-- the effects of that are far more costly than changing the filters at regular intervals.
@@fernandosalgadojr.4269 Ford recommends every 20k miles for normal conditions, 10k miles for severe (towing, excessive idling, frequent stop/go traffic). I change mine every other oil change (so about 9-12k) and haven't had an issue. I would rather spend the money on filters than the money on injectors/fuel parts.
i decided to just remove/clean the existing sensor with Electronics cleaner. it was almost completely plugged after 81k miles, but the muck was oily and soft, easy to remove with the cleaner. there was also muck on the inside of the manifold, so I just poked it with a little allen wrench til it fell off. my 1" socket wasn't long enough, so i ended up removing the plastic pipe between the air cleaner and the turbo, then using channel lockers to untighten it/tighten it. when I was putting it back on, that little rubber piece was stuck on the manifold, so I gently removed it and put it on the sensor-- it threaded on much easier after that. took me about 20 minutes total to do everything. thanks for the motivation!
Keep up with the oil changes, fuel filters and get the emissions crap off of it ASAP and it will last you half a million miles or more! Congrats on the truck!
I will have to check this soon! Mines to is used for pasture! Cows really moo over it or it could be the cubes or hay they want! LOL! I change my oil every 5k and fuel filters every 10k no matter what and use hot shots oil and fuel additive. I use trip A for my 5k oil changes and trip B for my 10k fuel filter changes. I only use oil and fuel filters from Ford. Also for Christmas, since I do not have a programmer that adds more HP just pasture mode, I bought the BD diesels TS Booster and it really woke up the truck! It seemed to help with MPG just a little. Two more mods left that I want to do are AirDog system and converting two piece driveshaft to one piece. Then it’s just maintenance until the engine goes. 183k on it and still running strong for now. Thanks for the sensor tip!
Update: buyer beware on BD Diesel products. I’ve ran their TSB for 4 months and it’s been back to them for “testing” and said it’s fine but last week when using it not only did it go into relearn mode like before but put my truck into limp mode in heavy traffic two hours away from home. Not good. Luckily when I made it to a safe place I disconnected it like before my truck ran flawlessly without it.
I changed my map sensor first and it helped the power fuel mileage and throttle response then someone told me to change the charge air temperature sensor next to the map sensor and it helped alot also
OMG!!! Thank you so much! This totally works! I have a 2010 with 104k miles, have left everything stock. I have seen a noticeable change in MPGs over time. I just replaced the MAP just like the video and took it for a test drive... IT WORKED!!! I was getting 11.5 or so if I babied the accelerator on the highway, now I'm getting close to 15, and I was going uphill on a test drive! Any other sensors I should look at? My MAP sensor was horribly clogged like yours, BTW. Bought a new sensor from the local dealer (prolly got ripped off) for $50.
Good Deal! That little sensor is probably more tied to throttle response, but at the same time if you're only using half the pedal that you used to after cleaning-- MPG!
@@USAF99 absolutely. Next thing I will do is remove that back pressure line and clean her out. I love my 2008, it only has 69k, I live in Commiefornia so so no deleting, I need all the MPG as you stated lol many thanks for your help!
@@knewtboot I bet they love you out there in that-- you're gonna have to strap a AA battery under the hood in a few years and say it identifies as an EV aint ya?
Map sensors all not only in Diesels they are all over ford vans e 350 , cargo, box trucks gas engines , Ford is in love with cheap PAM sensors , they can create so may symptoms and drive you crazy all day long.
As a fellow 6.4 owner, I appreciate the support. We need to stick together,,, After having a blown motor, I have had a ton of work done to my truck and still have a hard time trusting her. I'd like your opinion on reliability after doing the following work. Full delete Tuned and set on a tow haul mode (SCT) tuner ARP head studs S&B intake 4 " straight pipe Upgraded pistons FASS lift pump. Looking to do the Mishimoto radiator and a coolant filter. I use it to haul a toyhauler occasionally and every once and a while to commute. She runs like a dream. I love the truck, but have a hard time trusting it due to 6.4's reputation. What do you think??
The 6.4 is a bulletproof motor that will not fail you for a million miles if....and I emphasize IF the routine maintenance is kept up. From your list of upgrades, I would bet that your truck will last you at least 800k if you keep up with it. Personally, I do oil changes every 3500-4000 miles, fuel filters every other oil change, and coolant flushes every 10k. Keeping fresh fluids in them is priority #1. Priority 2 is on a tuned truck, don't turn them up. Its meant for hauling and working, not speed. It sounds like that's exactly what you do, haul and work with it. My honest opinion? It sounds like you have a recipe for a good truck that won't let you down. I'd probably put your worries to bed.
@@USAF99 Wow that was a quick reply. That is reassuring to hear. After dumping that kind of money into it, you can be sure that maintenance is being done. I even keep a journal of all maintenance. Thanks for your response.
So I am a new owner of a F550. Which has had a motor replaced with another 6.4 crate moter. I am a service hydraulic mechanic with a service bed and with crane; to help my customers. I am of concern about the longevity of this motor and provide me an excellent overall performance. (Not as a into racing or into tractor pull performance). But as a road warrior taken all considerations of the PTO idle when operating crane for long periods. The 7.1 average mile per gallon, cause all the tools I carry as a mechanic.... it is a costly trip to help my customers. Yet I want any and all steps required to delete, add, or replace; wether exhaust, electrical, or internal concerns to make my truck perform as my Cheverolet 2005 900,000 mile truck had performed. Thanks , The Tractor Snapper' Texas
Pretty much watch the videos on my channel. That sounds like a cheap reply, but I am after the same thing with my 6.4. I just turned 200k on it, and it runs like brand new. These motors get a bad rap because little johnny doesn't change his oil and fuel filters. You're kind of limited as to what you can remove as your truck will be on public roads. As mine is a farm truck, I can get rid of all the emissions crap that kills these motors.
I haven't deleted my '08 6.4 yet. Its a low mileage truck with under 74k. I am currently getting almost 14 mpg mixed city and highway. I would expect someone to get poor performance and low power with a clogged MAP sensor but probably not a lot of better gas mileage. With the MAP sensor being clogged is not going to read any boost and should actually limit fuel consumption. The properly functioning MAP sensor will read the boost and tell the PCM making it pump in more fuel. The biggest factor to fuel mileage will always be driving habits. You can have the best maintenance in the world but if you drive with a led foot you are going to get crappy mpg. I would hypothesize there would be an increase in performance but not a huge increase in MPG. What results did you note after installing the new MAP sensor. I could be wrong? Just voicing my thought the subject.
How is the truck running today? A bunch of the old 6.4's are becoming extremely affordable nowadays. I think keeping up on these videos or redoing older ones would boost the channel quite a bit. People love to see multi segment projects on these trucks.
Check some of the diesel performance webpages, amazon etc. Just search 6.4 DPF delete kit. I will remind you, however, if your going to delete emissions parts the vehicle cannot travel on public roads- farm or race use only!
Mini Maxx. Set to stock or pull I live in BC so when I go north I like Street just to pass the guys that are afraid of traveling with mountains. Sometimes theirs not a lot of room to pass. My Mini Maxx. Is still set at factories specs I may change the low-boost fuel to the number 2 from 3. It might lower that little bit of Black carbon on take-off at stop-and-go.
What’s some important things you’d recommend when it comes to maintaining a daily driven 6.4? My 09 is deleted with a hs mini maxx that I leave stock, besides long distance highway mileage I set it to performance. My goal is to hit 250k miles while already having 180. Any basic and or important maintenance answers would be greatly appreciated.
First and foremost, remember its built for work not speed. Second, keep up with the fluids and filters on a schedule and don't exceed it. I change oil every 4-5k and fuel filters every other oil change. Coolant flushes every 8-10k. Every third oil change I take a sample and send it off to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed for contaminants. $30 a sample is a small price to pay for catching problems before they cost you $15k (long block from ford). If you hear a noise or notice a problem while driving, address it immediately. Basic maintenance and upkeep will keep these trucks running and working for 600-800,000 miles but you have to be willing to maintain it. Also, turn that H&S back down to Stock or Street. In my opinion the higher tunes advance the timing way too much and you'll find the weak spot in that 6.4 real quick if you hot rod it. The only thing I use a tuner for is to keep the CEL off being off road only and deleted.
@@fontz379 short stops idling are okay, better to keep the oil flowing through the cooler and into the turbo than letting it sit in a hot turbo and cook. All day idling or hours idling, bad.
@@fontz379 I have had the sinister diesel one on mine for awhile now- what ill tell you is this- I don't see a temperature differential between oil temp and coolant temp of more than 9 degrees on a 186k mile truck. Do with that information what you like!
What they are and why its good to delete them? An EGR valve is explained by its name-- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It recirculates exhaust gasses back into the intake for another combustion cycle. This is particularly bad in a diesel where that sooty exhaust, pre-DPF is going back into your intake. Exhaust soot gums stuff up, collects on valves, etc... The DPF is a Diesel Particulate Filter. It does just what it sounds like it does, it filters particulates out of the exhaust coming out of the engine, post turbo. What do filters do though? They get clogged over time. But you can't just get into the DPF and swap out elements, it has to have some kind of self clean-- which it does...kinda. The computer knows when its getting dirty and puts the truck in regen or regeneration. It will dump raw diesel fuel into the #7 and #8 cylinders on the exhaust stroke to be pushed out the exhaust and combust in the DPF....turning particulates into ash, which can then be blown out the exhaust. This is specifically harmful as the DPF doesn't get 100% clean on each regen cycle, and eventually the truck will continuously regen. THAT is bad because each time it regens, its washing down the cylinders with raw diesel fuel, eradicating the oil on the cylinder walls and eventually destroying the back two cylinders. Plus, it creates immense heat. Hope that helps!
My 2010 KR 6.4L has horrible gas mileage and I cannot delete because I have emissions in my area, so annoying. Nothing but a fund raiser. I also live at 5,000 feet plus. What is the best way to improve mileage right off the bat? Can I still replace this even if I don't have a delete? Other pointers? TIA
Sorry it took awhile to get back to you, I just happened to be scrolling through comments I hadn't replied to. If you haven't already, you may benefit from a custom tune more geared to your altitude. It's perfectly legal to tune a truck with the emissions still intact, especially in your case. Ford does a decent job of tuning for high altitudes, but there is absolutely room for improvement-- they can't tune for every situation or area if that makes sense.
My 6.4 has been deleted. I have a Minnie Max. I have a travel trailer. When in the tow setting on my Minnie Max. Do I still have to press the tow button on the shift column are not?
So the map sensor is still used even though you have deleted and removed the EGR. I've completed the delete and the EGR removal and I still only get 13 to 14 mpg.
I have a 2008 still factory and getting 16 to 17 miles per gallon . I run Roadmaster diesel don't idle it very much .Don't drive it on short trips . Seldom see it go into cleaning the filter .
P179A is usually power loss to the turbo actuator. Refer to the wiring diagram for correct voltage with KOEO and which wire it is. Trace back to see if it's broken anywhere.
I would like to see the rocker arm replacement. What they looked like. How many miles/hrs on them. I'm going to do mine in springtime. I have 125000 on mine . It is a worthwhile preventative maintenance
Not deleted...but I live in Washington so could...would that help this truck out a bunch? How? Also, recently had my mass air flow sensor cleaned as it was the culprit of power loss (it was caked with oil). After doing that its running great but I notice my boost doesn't max out like it was. Is that bad that it was maxing out the 4 before and its running as supposed to now with only getting up to 3? Appreciate any input on these few items. Mike
Deleting these trucks is a must for any real life expectancy. The problem is, as your DPF fills with soot, the regen cycles happen more and more frequently. This washes down your #7 & 8 cylinders with fuel, which causes wear. Its not uncommon for a deleted 6.4 to go 600k + miles before a rebuild. Cleaning your sensors in the intake is a must on a non-deleted truck. Diesel Soot and oil mix together to create a tar that impedes the sensor's ability to do its job. That is most likely why you were able to pick up power and most likely fuel mileage after cleaning them. As far as your boost, no, that's not bad. It just means that now your ECM is using the sensors more effectively and managing the engine like its supposed to-- and you don't have a lead foot! I bet if you throw the beans to it that boost gauge will rise!
@@mikegilbert944 totally up to you but the EGR after programming is essentially a restriction. It's better to delete both. Get a good quality delete kit and remove all that junk.
I cleaned mine but no difference. My question is what are the odds the sensor is bad? Would I have better luck with replacing it rather than just cleaning it?
Eh, if it was completely bad you would probably get a CEL. If the rest of the things in the cycle (intake, other sensors, etc) are gummed up too, this procedure probably won't help.
I have a 09 6.4 F-250 I have a issue I cannot figure out if I’m going about 70 mph on the highway if I accelerated to pick up speed it stalls I just change that fuel pump that’s underneath the driver seat it ran good for about an hour on the highway then it started stalling on meEverything is still stock in my truck I don’t know if it has to do with my DPf or EGRThat is giving me an issue no codes are coming out either I really need help trying to figure this out Truck does not turn off it just feels like it’s losing power or ran out of power or like my fuel system is not giving it to pressure it needs to accelerate like if I had an old bad fuel filter or something Well driving on the highway if I turn my key back as an off then to the on position it’ll pick up speed like a champ but once I let go of the gas pedal going up a hill if I’m not love tap in the pedal it will lose speed or if I let go of the gas pedal and try to accelerate it’ll just slow down like if I have a problem with the transmission but I just reset it again and put the key for back then forward and step on it and it runs like nothingBut as soon as I let go it’ll lose power the only reason I could make it pick up speed is just love tapping it Or cut it off and back on from the ignition switch and step on it
Let me do some research and try to recreate the issue on my truck. I have an idea what it might be but I want to verify first so you aren't buying unnecessary parts. I'll get back to you.
USAF99 thank you so much buddy I’ve been looking at your videos hopefully ran into an issue like that not that I want you to run into an issue like that but I’ve had no luck yet
@@raulvalles7338 So, here's what I want you to do. Check fuel pressure under a load. It should not be below 40 at any time. If it is, you have a fuel restriction somewhere or your HPFP is going/gone bad. Don't just check fuel pressure at idle, that will give you a false positive. Check it while you are driving it, I have seen guys hook the gauge up to the mirror where they can see it and then drive the truck from a stop to 30-40 MPH at wide open throttle. If your fuel pressure stays above 40 during all that, we will continue to diagnose.
I drove it out of town yesterday had no issues at all I found a sensor disconnected to the throttlebody where the air filter is at The only thing now when it’s on regen mode on the screen in the dash panel It’ll take forever to clean the exhaust so I’m thinking of a DPF delete
@@raulvalles7338 Its more than likely filling up and getting clogged or close to clogged. If you don't want to delete it, you can remove the DPF and have it cleaned as long as there is a shop in your area that can do it. You might check around to see if there is in the interim while you decide if you want to delete it or not. Glad you found the problem, I was going to say pedal position sensor initially but then wanted to see if you were getting adequate fuel pressure first.
i had a question, i just bought a 10 6.4 its deleted and someone had a tuner in it but now theres only the wire with no tuner! do i need to have a tuner on it i was just gonna drive it till i could afford a tuner? thanks and thanks for your service!
So, if it's not throwing any codes and runs fine, the tune most likely still loaded to the truck. They may have thought they got one over on you but the joke is on them....the tuner won't work in any other truck until they uninstall the tune from your truck...something you're not going to let them do. You should be good for now unless you start swapping computers.
@@USAF99 so i bought this truck i was dumb about it i found out about all the bad things people talk about, but it throws no codes and runs nice only thing is sometimes on take off it sounds like a bus or like it was geard low but rpms r fine i guess it sounds like a bus its not a hiss but once i put a new turner on it it should be ok u think? im sorry all the negitive stuff has me worried i have tons of questions the salesman of course told me what i wanted to hear!
@@patrickmcguire3673 You have what's called a compound turbo- that's the "bus" sound you're hearing. Its normal. Wait till you're standing next to the exhaust on start up and it sounds like a jet starting up. These trucks with the 6.4 aren't bad, the negatives can be mitigated by taking care of the truck. Keep up on the fluids, keep an eye on the mechanicals and don't drive it like an idiot and you'll be fine. These trucks are designed to work, not hot rod.
@@USAF99 buddy you made my day this is why i love vets there the salt of the earth! thanks so much and i will take great care now that i know what is goin on! i will be watching your channel religiously and fyi thats what i bought it for is to tow i have a small shippig compamny i had a duramax and loved it but got caught in the riots in new york and they used it like a roman candle! thanks again
I got a 2008 6.4 f250 wen I turn the AC on the engine fan comes on and the transmission gets over heating at the same time. do you know what is wrong with the truck or any idea ?
That's almost impossible to diagnose over the internet. I would probably start by replacing the thermostats, they are cheap and easy. Follow that up with a coolant flush. I would also make sure that your A/C pump isn't locking up or dying putting more stress on the engine than normal. You would be hard pressed to overheat a diesel with just the A/C so I am betting you're having other issues.
Hi I have a 2008 ford 250 6.4 and it does the regen every day two or three times a day is there something I can do to stop it from doing it so often? Besides the “delete” I’m in California so I can’t do it anyway
Honestly Jose, you're kinda screwed in Cali. There are really two options for your truck, either replace the DPF or have it cleaned. Either one stinks but with the tight emissions laws and inspections there, that's about all you can do. Whichever you decide, I would do them soon because the back two cylinders in your truck are most likely being destroyed by the multiple regens a day.
@@USAF99 thanks for your advice!! But I got the dpf cleaned up about 5 months ago and I already changed sensors that could be replaced and still have the check engine light came on too
I meant to ask you and completely forgot-- what were the codes stored in the ECU? If your DPF is clean you may have a bad after DPF pyro sensor. It's reading wrong so the truck thinks it needs a regen. I would be interested to see what your codes are. Apologies for not getting back to you sooner!
@@USAF99 thanks for answering I took my truck to a different mechanic and he said the dpf sensor that was on it wasn’t from the Ford dealership when the mechanic always said it was, so now with this new sensor the truck seems to finally be fixed!
Hey there just wanted to say I have looked at the map sensor and looks clean no soot whatsoever but I still have about 7.8 to 8 mpg what else could it be or should I just change the map sensor anyway even tho it looks clean and yes my truck is deleted 🙄
I've got s 2004 F450. Still stock, I live in Ca. Got to keep it that way. Been thinking about removing the in tank filters. Would this be a good idea or a bad one?
Hey man, I had an issue come up today on my 6.4. It has 49k miles in it. Everything is still Factory. I was on I-75 N today running around 70mph. The Truck just started loosing power. Like the transmission quit pulling. I pulled over listen to the engine, it ran fine. No lights in dash. I switched it off, started it back up and eased out on the interstate. Noticed blue smoke coming from exhaust briefly then it cleared up and run fine. The check engine light then came on. About 40 more miles, it did the same thing. I hadn't owned the Truck very long. I've put 1400 miles on it . Do you think it was in regeneration process, or the dpf clogged up?
Hey Jerry, First, I would start with a scan tool and see if you have stored codes, that will at least get you started in the right direction. As far as a regen, the truck will tell you on the dash when it's doing a regen. I can't remember if it dings at you too, I think so. I doubt the DPF is clogged, I would think you would run poorly all the time not sporadically. If you have a laptop and a USB - OBDII cable, download Forscan and read the codes. I'd be interested to see what we find stored.
Did u go back with Orem or aftermarket? I might have missed it if you said and as always thx. I did the sinister coolant filter after watching your video and replaced the damn oil cooler. Anyhow thx as always bro! Never mind I should have paid attention
Believe it or not, it actually went DOWN. Once I finish this emergency kitchen re-model, I am going to dive into it and figure it out. Not sure what the deal is. I have a feeling the tune was erased. Ill make a follow up video soon.
Si pregunta si 15 millas por galón es normal, realmente depende. Eso no es genial, pero tampoco terrible. Lo siento, estoy usando el Traductor de Google para responderte.
@@USAF99 😆🤣👍 mui bien perfect 15mpg. Is good ok you wan using for hard work gives 11mpg to me is perfect. Is 6.4 is big engine hp delete EGR DELETE DPF I THINK 6.4 IS GOOD ENGINE
Hey bro so I just switched my MAP sensor and my Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and I noticed that my Boost it stays on 1 while I'm stationary or even on parked. What do you think it could be?
@@USAF99 I usually tried to pay attention to it since people says we should wait a few seconds before turning it off to make sure the boost is down and the turbo is done spinning. So you think is fine to shut the engine off without the boost being at 0?
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Whag can you do to upgrade your fuel filter to last longer
I would say nothing. Use OEM filters and don't try to "stretch" the time between changes-- the effects of that are far more costly than changing the filters at regular intervals.
@@USAF99 I change mine every 3 oil change... I don't know how long you suppose to change it
@@fernandosalgadojr.4269 Ford recommends every 20k miles for normal conditions, 10k miles for severe (towing, excessive idling, frequent stop/go traffic). I change mine every other oil change (so about 9-12k) and haven't had an issue. I would rather spend the money on filters than the money on injectors/fuel parts.
@@USAF99 yea mine is a tow truck and we drive them like crazy too... Thanks for the advice
@Cesar Estrada if there were two like buttons I would have hit them both on this comment. Spot on reply.
Thanks for the tip! i just took mine off and cleaned it, excited to see if I feel a difference. 6.4 with 460,000kms, owned since new
Great video I have 145K miles on my deleted truck and never new this trick. I'm on it thanks 👍
i decided to just remove/clean the existing sensor with Electronics cleaner. it was almost completely plugged after 81k miles, but the muck was oily and soft, easy to remove with the cleaner. there was also muck on the inside of the manifold, so I just poked it with a little allen wrench til it fell off. my 1" socket wasn't long enough, so i ended up removing the plastic pipe between the air cleaner and the turbo, then using channel lockers to untighten it/tighten it. when I was putting it back on, that little rubber piece was stuck on the manifold, so I gently removed it and put it on the sensor-- it threaded on much easier after that. took me about 20 minutes total to do everything. thanks for the motivation!
Thank you so much for making this videos it really helps i just bought my 2010 F-350 first truck i have ever owed.
Keep up with the oil changes, fuel filters and get the emissions crap off of it ASAP and it will last you half a million miles or more! Congrats on the truck!
Vidal Alfaro and don’t run a hot tune!
Thank you! I went from 9.3 to 11.7 and climbing! F550 very much loaded down 12' flatbed
Bro which sensor do you change map o máf
I replaced mine; it was gunked up similar to yours. So far, mileage hasn't changed, but throttle response is much better.
I will have to check this soon! Mines to is used for pasture! Cows really moo over it or it could be the cubes or hay they want! LOL! I change my oil every 5k and fuel filters every 10k no matter what and use hot shots oil and fuel additive. I use trip A for my 5k oil changes and trip B for my 10k fuel filter changes. I only use oil and fuel filters from Ford. Also for Christmas, since I do not have a programmer that adds more HP just pasture mode, I bought the BD diesels TS Booster and it really woke up the truck! It seemed to help with MPG just a little. Two more mods left that I want to do are AirDog system and converting two piece driveshaft to one piece. Then it’s just maintenance until the engine goes. 183k on it and still running strong for now. Thanks for the sensor tip!
Update: buyer beware on BD Diesel products. I’ve ran their TSB for 4 months and it’s been back to them for “testing” and said it’s fine but last week when using it not only did it go into relearn mode like before but put my truck into limp mode in heavy traffic two hours away from home. Not good. Luckily when I made it to a safe place I disconnected it like before my truck ran flawlessly without it.
Fuel mileage in the pasture 😂
Damn, now I gotta go check my MAP sensor, I would however recommend OEM sensors vs. house brand
Great news! Worked exactly as you said
I changed my map sensor first and it helped the power fuel mileage and throttle response then someone told me to change the charge air temperature sensor next to the map sensor and it helped alot also
Thanks very much for your help. after I watch your video I checked my and it was clogged.
OMG!!! Thank you so much! This totally works! I have a 2010 with 104k miles, have left everything stock. I have seen a noticeable change in MPGs over time. I just replaced the MAP just like the video and took it for a test drive... IT WORKED!!! I was getting 11.5 or so if I babied the accelerator on the highway, now I'm getting close to 15, and I was going uphill on a test drive! Any other sensors I should look at? My MAP sensor was horribly clogged like yours, BTW. Bought a new sensor from the local dealer (prolly got ripped off) for $50.
Mine was 100% impacted with crap. Cleaned it and instant increase in MPG!
Good Deal! That little sensor is probably more tied to throttle response, but at the same time if you're only using half the pedal that you used to after cleaning-- MPG!
@@USAF99 absolutely. Next thing I will do is remove that back pressure line and clean her out. I love my 2008, it only has 69k, I live in Commiefornia so so no deleting, I need all the MPG as you stated lol many thanks for your help!
@@knewtboot I bet they love you out there in that-- you're gonna have to strap a AA battery under the hood in a few years and say it identifies as an EV aint ya?
02:45 I am worried about fuel mileage in the pasture, thanks man.
I am here for all your efficient livestock chasing needs!
Map sensors all not only in Diesels they are all over ford vans e 350 , cargo, box trucks gas engines , Ford is in love with cheap PAM sensors , they can create so may symptoms and drive you crazy all day long.
As a fellow 6.4 owner, I appreciate the support. We need to stick together,,, After having a blown motor,
I have had a ton of work done to my truck and still have a hard time trusting her.
I'd like your opinion on reliability after doing the following work.
Full delete
Tuned and set on a tow haul mode (SCT) tuner
ARP head studs
S&B intake
4 " straight pipe
Upgraded pistons
FASS lift pump.
Looking to do the Mishimoto radiator and a coolant filter. I use it to haul a toyhauler occasionally and every once and a while to commute.
She runs like a dream. I love the truck, but have a hard time trusting it due to 6.4's reputation.
What do you think??
The 6.4 is a bulletproof motor that will not fail you for a million miles if....and I emphasize IF the routine maintenance is kept up. From your list of upgrades, I would bet that your truck will last you at least 800k if you keep up with it. Personally, I do oil changes every 3500-4000 miles, fuel filters every other oil change, and coolant flushes every 10k. Keeping fresh fluids in them is priority #1. Priority 2 is on a tuned truck, don't turn them up. Its meant for hauling and working, not speed. It sounds like that's exactly what you do, haul and work with it. My honest opinion? It sounds like you have a recipe for a good truck that won't let you down. I'd probably put your worries to bed.
@@USAF99 Wow that was a quick reply. That is reassuring to hear. After dumping that kind of money into it, you can be sure that maintenance is being done. I even keep a journal of all maintenance. Thanks for your response.
@@jcapen1 my car fax app is the best for keeping a log :)
Thanks, I like your video. You sure make it easy to understand. I just subscribed.
So I am a new owner of a F550. Which has had a motor replaced with another 6.4 crate moter. I am a service hydraulic mechanic with a service bed and with crane; to help my customers.
I am of concern about the longevity of this motor and provide me an excellent overall performance. (Not as a into racing or into tractor pull performance). But as a road warrior taken all considerations of the PTO idle when operating crane for long periods. The 7.1 average mile per gallon, cause all the tools I carry as a mechanic.... it is a costly trip to help my customers. Yet I want any and all steps required to delete, add, or replace; wether exhaust, electrical, or internal concerns to make my truck perform as my Cheverolet 2005 900,000 mile truck had performed.
Thanks ,
The Tractor Snapper'
Texas
I forgot to say Duramax 6.6
Pretty much watch the videos on my channel. That sounds like a cheap reply, but I am after the same thing with my 6.4. I just turned 200k on it, and it runs like brand new. These motors get a bad rap because little johnny doesn't change his oil and fuel filters. You're kind of limited as to what you can remove as your truck will be on public roads. As mine is a farm truck, I can get rid of all the emissions crap that kills these motors.
I haven't deleted my '08 6.4 yet. Its a low mileage truck with under 74k. I am currently getting almost 14 mpg mixed city and highway. I would expect someone to get poor performance and low power with a clogged MAP sensor but probably not a lot of better gas mileage. With the MAP sensor being clogged is not going to read any boost and should actually limit fuel consumption. The properly functioning MAP sensor will read the boost and tell the PCM making it pump in more fuel. The biggest factor to fuel mileage will always be driving habits. You can have the best maintenance in the world but if you drive with a led foot you are going to get crappy mpg.
I would hypothesize there would be an increase in performance but not a huge increase in MPG. What results did you note after installing the new MAP sensor. I could be wrong? Just voicing my thought the subject.
Thank you. my next weekend project
I went to high school with you sir!
You need to show how to change the pcv valve hose thats on bottom of the engine.
OK I would like to see that as well
How is the truck running today? A bunch of the old 6.4's are becoming extremely affordable nowadays. I think keeping up on these videos or redoing older ones would boost the channel quite a bit. People love to see multi segment projects on these trucks.
It runs like a champ, and you are absolutely correct. I have several in the pipeline I have been working on. Thanks for the comment and encouragement!
Thanks for the advice/video man 💯
Hi 👋 Thanks for the video
I have 2008 6.4 stock
I want delete egr the you know where I can buy set to delete egr
Check some of the diesel performance webpages, amazon etc. Just search 6.4 DPF delete kit. I will remind you, however, if your going to delete emissions parts the vehicle cannot travel on public roads- farm or race use only!
Do you have a tuner on your truck? If so what kind and what are your settings?
Mini Maxx. Set to stock or pull I live in BC so when I go north I like Street just to pass the guys that are afraid of traveling with mountains. Sometimes theirs not a lot of room to pass. My Mini Maxx. Is still set at factories specs I may change the low-boost fuel to the number 2 from 3. It might lower that little bit of Black carbon on take-off at stop-and-go.
Now I'm going to have to check mine. Do you have any updates on mileage and how she runs now?
Otra pregunta me esta marcando codigos del in gector 8 y 10 y la transmission. Sera I me pueda ayudar
What’s some important things you’d recommend when it comes to maintaining a daily driven 6.4? My 09 is deleted with a hs mini maxx that I leave stock, besides long distance highway mileage I set it to performance. My goal is to hit 250k miles while already having 180. Any basic and or important maintenance answers would be greatly appreciated.
First and foremost, remember its built for work not speed. Second, keep up with the fluids and filters on a schedule and don't exceed it. I change oil every 4-5k and fuel filters every other oil change. Coolant flushes every 8-10k. Every third oil change I take a sample and send it off to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed for contaminants. $30 a sample is a small price to pay for catching problems before they cost you $15k (long block from ford). If you hear a noise or notice a problem while driving, address it immediately. Basic maintenance and upkeep will keep these trucks running and working for 600-800,000 miles but you have to be willing to maintain it. Also, turn that H&S back down to Stock or Street. In my opinion the higher tunes advance the timing way too much and you'll find the weak spot in that 6.4 real quick if you hot rod it. The only thing I use a tuner for is to keep the CEL off being off road only and deleted.
@@USAF99 sweet I needed that, what’s your option on keeping it idle while I’m stop at a store and short trips like that?
@@fontz379 short stops idling are okay, better to keep the oil flowing through the cooler and into the turbo than letting it sit in a hot turbo and cook. All day idling or hours idling, bad.
@@USAF99would you recommend a coolant filter for the 6.4?
@@fontz379 I have had the sinister diesel one on mine for awhile now- what ill tell you is this- I don't see a temperature differential between oil temp and coolant temp of more than 9 degrees on a 186k mile truck. Do with that information what you like!
I use motorcradt brand for the fuel, air, and oil filters. What brand oil do you recommend using for this truck? And do you use any oil additives?
Explain egr and dpf and why it can help with motor lifespan
What they are and why its good to delete them? An EGR valve is explained by its name-- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It recirculates exhaust gasses back into the intake for another combustion cycle. This is particularly bad in a diesel where that sooty exhaust, pre-DPF is going back into your intake. Exhaust soot gums stuff up, collects on valves, etc... The DPF is a Diesel Particulate Filter. It does just what it sounds like it does, it filters particulates out of the exhaust coming out of the engine, post turbo. What do filters do though? They get clogged over time. But you can't just get into the DPF and swap out elements, it has to have some kind of self clean-- which it does...kinda. The computer knows when its getting dirty and puts the truck in regen or regeneration. It will dump raw diesel fuel into the #7 and #8 cylinders on the exhaust stroke to be pushed out the exhaust and combust in the DPF....turning particulates into ash, which can then be blown out the exhaust. This is specifically harmful as the DPF doesn't get 100% clean on each regen cycle, and eventually the truck will continuously regen. THAT is bad because each time it regens, its washing down the cylinders with raw diesel fuel, eradicating the oil on the cylinder walls and eventually destroying the back two cylinders. Plus, it creates immense heat. Hope that helps!
Yup totally clogged, thanx bro
Hay have 6.4 2008 f350 where i can found
My engine compartment does not look anything like yours. Mine is so packed full I can barely find my windshield washer reservoir. 2010 F250 6.4
Pull your air box, you'll find the sensor under the piping in the intake, passenger side.
My 2010 KR 6.4L has horrible gas mileage and I cannot delete because I have emissions in my area, so annoying. Nothing but a fund raiser. I also live at 5,000 feet plus. What is the best way to improve mileage right off the bat? Can I still replace this even if I don't have a delete? Other pointers? TIA
Sorry it took awhile to get back to you, I just happened to be scrolling through comments I hadn't replied to. If you haven't already, you may benefit from a custom tune more geared to your altitude. It's perfectly legal to tune a truck with the emissions still intact, especially in your case. Ford does a decent job of tuning for high altitudes, but there is absolutely room for improvement-- they can't tune for every situation or area if that makes sense.
My 6.4 has been deleted. I have a Minnie Max. I have a travel trailer. When in the tow setting on my Minnie Max. Do I still have to press the tow button on the shift column are not?
No sir. The tow button on your shifter and the tow program in your MM do the same thing.
Just went down to O'Reilly auto parts and that MAP sensor is now $69. That's some serious inflation in 4yrs.
But hey, we're building back better...😂
@@USAF99 for him and his cronies.
What’s the name of the other sensor next to the map sensor?
Thanks
One is the MAP the other is the IAT or Intake Air Temp.
@@USAF99
Thank you sir!
So the map sensor is still used even though you have deleted and removed the EGR. I've completed the delete and the EGR removal and I still only get 13 to 14 mpg.
I have a 2008 still factory and getting 16 to 17 miles per gallon . I run Roadmaster diesel don't idle it very much .Don't drive it on short trips . Seldom see it go into cleaning the filter .
mine is deleted and gets 11mpg.
What is the code P179A in a 6.4 2008
P179A is usually power loss to the turbo actuator. Refer to the wiring diagram for correct voltage with KOEO and which wire it is. Trace back to see if it's broken anywhere.
I would like to see the rocker arm replacement. What they looked like. How many miles/hrs on them. I'm going to do mine in springtime. I have 125000 on mine . It is a worthwhile preventative maintenance
You're in luck, that video is being edited today, probably up tomorrow!
Not deleted...but I live in Washington so could...would that help this truck out a bunch? How? Also, recently had my mass air flow sensor cleaned as it was the culprit of power loss (it was caked with oil). After doing that its running great but I notice my boost doesn't max out like it was. Is that bad that it was maxing out the 4 before and its running as supposed to now with only getting up to 3? Appreciate any input on these few items.
Mike
Deleting these trucks is a must for any real life expectancy. The problem is, as your DPF fills with soot, the regen cycles happen more and more frequently. This washes down your #7 & 8 cylinders with fuel, which causes wear. Its not uncommon for a deleted 6.4 to go 600k + miles before a rebuild. Cleaning your sensors in the intake is a must on a non-deleted truck. Diesel Soot and oil mix together to create a tar that impedes the sensor's ability to do its job. That is most likely why you were able to pick up power and most likely fuel mileage after cleaning them. As far as your boost, no, that's not bad. It just means that now your ECM is using the sensors more effectively and managing the engine like its supposed to-- and you don't have a lead foot! I bet if you throw the beans to it that boost gauge will rise!
@@USAF99 thanks for the info. Delete just the DPF? ...or EGR as well?
@@mikegilbert944 totally up to you but the EGR after programming is essentially a restriction. It's better to delete both. Get a good quality delete kit and remove all that junk.
Thankyou
I cleaned mine but no difference. My question is what are the odds the sensor is bad? Would I have better luck with replacing it rather than just cleaning it?
Eh, if it was completely bad you would probably get a CEL. If the rest of the things in the cycle (intake, other sensors, etc) are gummed up too, this procedure probably won't help.
Just bought my 08 f-250. Mine gets 18.3 mpg
I have a 09 6.4 F-250 I have a issue I cannot figure out if I’m going about 70 mph on the highway if I accelerated to pick up speed it stalls I just change that fuel pump that’s underneath the driver seat it ran good for about an hour on the highway then it started stalling on meEverything is still stock in my truck I don’t know if it has to do with my DPf or EGRThat is giving me an issue no codes are coming out either I really need help trying to figure this out Truck does not turn off it just feels like it’s losing power or ran out of power or like my fuel system is not giving it to pressure it needs to accelerate like if I had an old bad fuel filter or something Well driving on the highway if I turn my key back as an off then to the on position it’ll pick up speed like a champ but once I let go of the gas pedal going up a hill if I’m not love tap in the pedal it will lose speed or if I let go of the gas pedal and try to accelerate it’ll just slow down like if I have a problem with the transmission but I just reset it again and put the key for back then forward and step on it and it runs like nothingBut as soon as I let go it’ll lose power the only reason I could make it pick up speed is just love tapping it Or cut it off and back on from the ignition switch and step on it
Let me do some research and try to recreate the issue on my truck. I have an idea what it might be but I want to verify first so you aren't buying unnecessary parts. I'll get back to you.
USAF99 thank you so much buddy I’ve been looking at your videos hopefully ran into an issue like that not that I want you to run into an issue like that but I’ve had no luck yet
@@raulvalles7338 So, here's what I want you to do. Check fuel pressure under a load. It should not be below 40 at any time. If it is, you have a fuel restriction somewhere or your HPFP is going/gone bad. Don't just check fuel pressure at idle, that will give you a false positive. Check it while you are driving it, I have seen guys hook the gauge up to the mirror where they can see it and then drive the truck from a stop to 30-40 MPH at wide open throttle. If your fuel pressure stays above 40 during all that, we will continue to diagnose.
I drove it out of town yesterday had no issues at all I found a sensor disconnected to the throttlebody where the air filter is at The only thing now when it’s on regen mode on the screen in the dash panel It’ll take forever to clean the exhaust so I’m thinking of a DPF delete
@@raulvalles7338 Its more than likely filling up and getting clogged or close to clogged. If you don't want to delete it, you can remove the DPF and have it cleaned as long as there is a shop in your area that can do it. You might check around to see if there is in the interim while you decide if you want to delete it or not. Glad you found the problem, I was going to say pedal position sensor initially but then wanted to see if you were getting adequate fuel pressure first.
Thanks much. Question for you, which tuner do you recommend for a non deleted low mileage 52000 mi 6.4?
Thanks again
An H&S Mini Maxx if you can find one. Delete options are there if you change in the future and the tunes will run in your current config well.
Apparently, The Mini Maxx is no longer couldn't keep up with Gov. Harrasmint and BullyDog has taken over its programs
What kind of milage should I be getting with my 6.4 and does a straight 4in. Pipe help with millage and does a power chip help as well? Thank you
Should I still inspect if the egr tune os off?
I do. Its still operational.
i had a question, i just bought a 10 6.4 its deleted and someone had a tuner in it but now theres only the wire with no tuner! do i need to have a tuner on it i was just gonna drive it till i could afford a tuner? thanks and thanks for your service!
So, if it's not throwing any codes and runs fine, the tune most likely still loaded to the truck. They may have thought they got one over on you but the joke is on them....the tuner won't work in any other truck until they uninstall the tune from your truck...something you're not going to let them do. You should be good for now unless you start swapping computers.
@@USAF99 so i bought this truck i was dumb about it i found out about all the bad things people talk about, but it throws no codes and runs nice only thing is sometimes on take off it sounds like a bus or like it was geard low but rpms r fine i guess it sounds like a bus its not a hiss but once i put a new turner on it it should be ok u think? im sorry all the negitive stuff has me worried i have tons of questions the salesman of course told me what i wanted to hear!
@@patrickmcguire3673 You have what's called a compound turbo- that's the "bus" sound you're hearing. Its normal. Wait till you're standing next to the exhaust on start up and it sounds like a jet starting up. These trucks with the 6.4 aren't bad, the negatives can be mitigated by taking care of the truck. Keep up on the fluids, keep an eye on the mechanicals and don't drive it like an idiot and you'll be fine. These trucks are designed to work, not hot rod.
@@USAF99 buddy you made my day this is why i love vets there the salt of the earth! thanks so much and i will take great care now that i know what is goin on! i will be watching your channel religiously and fyi thats what i bought it for is to tow i have a small shippig compamny i had a duramax and loved it but got caught in the riots in new york and they used it like a roman candle! thanks again
@@patrickmcguire3673 Appreciate the support!
I got a 2008 6.4 f250 wen I turn the AC on the engine fan comes on and the transmission gets over heating at the same time. do you know what is wrong with the truck or any idea ?
That's almost impossible to diagnose over the internet. I would probably start by replacing the thermostats, they are cheap and easy. Follow that up with a coolant flush. I would also make sure that your A/C pump isn't locking up or dying putting more stress on the engine than normal. You would be hard pressed to overheat a diesel with just the A/C so I am betting you're having other issues.
Hi I have a 2008 ford 250 6.4 and it does the regen every day two or three times a day is there something I can do to stop it from doing it so often? Besides the “delete” I’m in California so I can’t do it anyway
Honestly Jose, you're kinda screwed in Cali. There are really two options for your truck, either replace the DPF or have it cleaned. Either one stinks but with the tight emissions laws and inspections there, that's about all you can do. Whichever you decide, I would do them soon because the back two cylinders in your truck are most likely being destroyed by the multiple regens a day.
@@USAF99 thanks for your advice!! But I got the dpf cleaned up about 5 months ago and I already changed sensors that could be replaced and still have the check engine light came on too
I meant to ask you and completely forgot-- what were the codes stored in the ECU? If your DPF is clean you may have a bad after DPF pyro sensor. It's reading wrong so the truck thinks it needs a regen. I would be interested to see what your codes are. Apologies for not getting back to you sooner!
@@USAF99 thanks for answering I took my truck to a different mechanic and he said the dpf sensor that was on it wasn’t from the Ford dealership when the mechanic always said it was, so now with this new sensor the truck seems to finally be fixed!
@@josegpazc Good deal because those regens were killing the back two cylinders!
Hey there just wanted to say I have looked at the map sensor and looks clean no soot whatsoever but I still have about 7.8 to 8 mpg what else could it be or should I just change the map sensor anyway even tho it looks clean and yes my truck is deleted 🙄
That bad you might want to be looking for a dragging brake caliper or stuck open injector. Does it smoke? That's pretty bad mileage!
I've got s 2004 F450. Still stock, I live in Ca. Got to keep it that way. Been thinking about removing the in tank filters. Would this be a good idea or a bad one?
Hey man, I had an issue come up today on my 6.4. It has 49k miles in it. Everything is still Factory.
I was on I-75 N today running around 70mph. The Truck just started loosing power. Like the transmission quit pulling. I pulled over listen to the engine, it ran fine. No lights in dash. I switched it off, started it back up and eased out on the interstate. Noticed blue smoke coming from exhaust briefly then it cleared up and run fine. The check engine light then came on. About 40 more miles, it did the same thing. I hadn't owned the Truck very long. I've put 1400 miles on it . Do you think it was in regeneration process, or the dpf clogged up?
Hey Jerry,
First, I would start with a scan tool and see if you have stored codes, that will at least get you started in the right direction. As far as a regen, the truck will tell you on the dash when it's doing a regen. I can't remember if it dings at you too, I think so. I doubt the DPF is clogged, I would think you would run poorly all the time not sporadically. If you have a laptop and a USB - OBDII cable, download Forscan and read the codes. I'd be interested to see what we find stored.
Did u go back with Orem or aftermarket? I might have missed it if you said and as always thx. I did the sinister coolant filter after watching your video and replaced the damn oil cooler. Anyhow thx as always bro! Never mind I should have paid attention
It's an aftermarket made by Standard Motor Products. Thank You!
What kind of mpg are you getting now?
Believe it or not, it actually went DOWN. Once I finish this emergency kitchen re-model, I am going to dive into it and figure it out. Not sure what the deal is. I have a feeling the tune was erased. Ill make a follow up video soon.
Otra pregunta. Mi troca. Dura 15 ml. Por galon is. Normal. ??
Si pregunta si 15 millas por galón es normal, realmente depende. Eso no es genial, pero tampoco terrible. Lo siento, estoy usando el Traductor de Google para responderte.
@@USAF99 😆🤣👍 mui bien perfect 15mpg. Is good ok you wan using for hard work gives 11mpg to me is perfect. Is 6.4 is big engine hp delete EGR DELETE DPF I THINK 6.4 IS GOOD ENGINE
Esta bien. Ponle un motor Cummings. Y te Dara mui buen rendimiento. D 18 millas a 25 millas por galon
Hey bro so I just switched my MAP sensor and my Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and I noticed that my Boost it stays on 1 while I'm stationary or even on parked. What do you think it could be?
It has probably always done that, just now you're paying attention to it looking at boost after doing maintenance. Nothing to worry about.
@@USAF99 I usually tried to pay attention to it since people says we should wait a few seconds before turning it off to make sure the boost is down and the turbo is done spinning. So you think is fine to shut the engine off without the boost being at 0?
@@juansebastianlopez8828 I'll race you for money peasant
I got mine on amozon for 12.50 for my 08 350
papa 13. Lv raiders
Cheap parts... they will break eventually. Do it right the first time and be done with it. I say the from experience
What is that bro wtff
Quit using cheap oil. Synthetic only.