I don’t know if you reply to this video anymore but I have a 2003 LB7 stock/S475. When I try to boost test it I get a bubbling or gurgling sound in the pipe that crosses from the S475 to the stock/Valley turbo. Could that be blow by? Where the pressure is going? It is a new built engine capable of being a 700HP daily driver. It has about 1500 miles on it.
Thanks for the vid man! Idk yet what my prob is but some things to check for now. LBZ Duramax, seems the vanes stick occasionally on hard acceleration? Sometimes when pulling out of my subdivision, sometimes when mashing the pedal getting on an open highway. My edge might show 8lbs boost while truck is hesitating, maintaining the same speed, then Bam 28lbs take off! Only happens occasionally though? 👍🏻🛎🛎
Thank you very much for this video. I never had to deal with turbo for 30 years as a mechanic, now moving to Australia and having to newer diesel engines with common rail and all that. I was over whelmed enough and i then turbo on top of it. I feel more confident now
So I really do appreciate that video I'm retired from being a diesel mechanic, but I still like helping troubleshoot my friends problems on their trucks and you jogged my memory of what to check thank you
I find that if you don't use the knowledge we have gained over the years it kinda gets lost. Once in a while, we have to give ourselves a refresher. We don't forget it, just have to dust it off a bit. Thanks for the great comment.
what would cause my crdi engine to buck back and forth when driving away from a stop? i changed maf sensor, map sensor, cleaned egr valve? would a sticky turbo or a boost leak cause this?
I wouldn't go that far. Just trying to show people how smaller, cheaper, and minor problems can make it look like you need a turbo. Thanks for the great comment.
This is a bad ass video. Well done. I'm a long hauler, and this helped when I was stranded with no boost pressure in the middle of Wyoming. I'll spread the word on your videos.
I want to add that the valves/seals and pistion rings can be the source of low or no boost problems as well. If you block off before the intake manifold and put pressure after the turbo you can see if that section is leaking or not and elimate that section off. Next I would pressure test the crankcase to make sure it's not the piston rings or valve/seals.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 "People are too quick to throw new turbos at systems with boost leaks or other issues." You could not be more correct. I spent so long replacing boost hoses in my land rover for a turbo underboost - P0299 DTC. After I did that and it didn't fix the issue, thought it could be intercooler or exhaust gasket on the turbo failure or potentially a clogged DPF that's adding too much back pressure to the exhaust manifold. Took it to the mechanics who almost immediately diagnosed it as a failed turbo. I was so sick of having this issue (5 months now) and just agreed to the works. Guess what? Didn't fix anything. I've just bought a smoke machine to see if I can find boost leaks this way. I've sworn off taking my car to a mechanics anymore unless I've diagnosed it and can't fix it myself. Most mechanics nowadays just read DTC codes and have very little diagnostic skills/experience
Maybe if your boost is too low for what you need you can increase the air and fuel mixture on your boost sensor by adding a potential meter to send message to the computer and it doesn't overheads any diodes or resistors works very good
I have disassembled my whole intake and exhaust side, and took the turbos off (twin turbo system) and looked for a leak. Also replaced all old rubber lines with new ones. I couldnt find any leak, yet the car wont boost past 14 psi anymore (normal is 22 psi), and when leak testing (like in your video) I was only able to build up 4 psi or so, and that fell down quickly too. Even connected a smoke generator but the smoke came out the exhaust only. Did a compression test after that, but all was fine. The only thing I found was that the turbo wheels have quite some play if you press the shaft up and down or left and right (back and forth is no movement at all). And they also click when doing that. One turbo (the one that is most prone to failure from other drivers experience) was also leaking a bit oil at the combined oil feed and drain line, or maybe where the turbo housings are connected with a spring ring. Its hard to tell, since they are close together. But the whole lower part of the turbo is full of oily soot and before I removed them I saw a drop of oil forming on that area. I also had more oil in the intercooler pipes than normal ("puddles" formed between rubber connectors, and dripped out when I took off the pipes). What do you think is the cause? The play in the turbo shaft?
The easiest was is take an airline and fit it in the boost pipe just after air filter. Fill up and see if air leaks out. Then if using scan tool go live data and search boost. All boost pids will appear. Look at boost sensor and note that figure then look at commanded. Note that figure. Accelerate and the boost should rise and figure be same as commanded. If not disconnect actuator arm and slightly wedge gas pedal. Look at scan tool as you put the actuator arm in turbo. Does boost increase. Yes then actuator or wiring or computer fault. No then turbo crap. Thats my understanding
@ yep of course. When things are mentioned clearly you would need those things. Thats why I mentioned them. Of course. Ok I give you more advice here. I wont mention what I mean you just guess YEAH. 😂😂😂
Thanks for the wonderful comment and for watching. Too many people fix the visible problem and not the cause, only to have the same thing happen a short time after.
I have a Buick Encore with the 1.4L turbo engine. It had a P0299 low boost trouble code. I had determined it was the turbo after much diagnosis. I received a letter from Buick that if my engine has this problem, Buick was required to replace the turbo if the vehicle has less than 120,000 miles and is less than 10 years old. I just got my car back from the dealer. They replaced the turbo and related parts. Cost? $0.00. This may be the same for all the GM 1.4L Eco Boost engines.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 I was surprised it cost me $0.00. I was sure they'd find a way to charge a few hundred dollars or refuse to fix it because I do my own service. I have had that happen before and I don't trust dealers.
great vid. thanks man. We have a M11 Cummins in our lobster boat. Aftercooler keeps clogging off, and the air filter becomes black/clogged immediately.
Sir,Your explanation on troubleshooting the turbo issues are crystal clear !I have a Mitsubishi Starion turbo intercooler,year 1986 for the past 25 years. Actually it runs slow hardly any boost,parts are hard to find !Nevertheless thank you for your advice.Regards.
Thanks. Parts are hard to get for newer vehicles. Older vehicles are even harder. Have you tried aftermarket? Try measuring yours up and see what you can find online.
That was a very good video but it did not explain a common low boost cause. That would be the dump gate sticking open or the actuator or solenoid not working. I guess he is saving that for another video.
Thanks for the great comment. You should be able to move the mechanical pieces by hand on this model but not the electronic pieces. Other turbos can be different depending on if there is return spring tension. Kind of a yes and no answer.
I'm very happy because seen something new today check out for the leaks with liquid water EXACTLY WHAT A TYRE PLACE DO FOR CONFIRMATION OF LEAKING Thanks for your help
I always see bad turbo videos but could you make a video how a good turbo would function and sound? I am about to buy a seat leon 2.0 tsfi fr from 2008 and i have no experience with turbo cars or the seat leon to begin with! Cheers.
Sounds like a boost leak. I would check all your hoses and clamps first. Look for black traces at the joints. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
VGT turbos do not change blade geometry. They move a sliding plate back and forth over the turbine vanes, controlling the amount of vane available to generate rotational power, via an exterior actuator.
Nice video.. I have the same problem low turbo boost on my 97 ram 2500 turbo diesel Cummins 5.9 I’m gonna try the soapy test I hope that’ll fixed the problem
I have code P0106 (MAP sensor) and P2580 (turbo speed sensor) my truck will build proper boost some days, others it wont, im getting a slight squeak from the front after about a month of having the issue. Tried replacing both sensors and checking all wiring. Exhaust brake only really works when truck is warm. Turbo builds right voltage aswell, any ideas?
I wonder if the exhaust brake is sticking partially closed causing turbo not to spin fast enough? Hope you find the problem and an easy fix. Keep me posted and thanks for watching.
Great video with very good explenations for amatuers like myself. I currently have an unsolved problem on my car. Its an audi a7 2013 3.0 bitdi. Had boost leak and bad mechanics pointed me to changing turbos. Now I have no boost untill 1800rpm. Small turbo is working from 1800 - 2700 rpm then big turbo takes over. I have vac checked my turbo. Did also egr and dpf delete as these got dirty with time. Car is running good but still no boost under 1800rpm Do you think its needing a calibration on the electronic actuator? Audi refused me a calibration as i dont think they know this car good enough.. Do you think you can consult me with a help as you seem to be a real proffesional in this area 😅 pretty desperate at this time
@shanersmechaniclife3164 hello my friend I did have problems with the dpf and went to a tuner who programmed both of my dpfs off and also removed the insides so 0 restrictions as he thought that was the cause. For now it seems my turbo needs to be calibrated as we can not find any other cause and audi is refusing me that because I put a refurbished turbo inside 😆 im hitting a big Wall here. And thank you for great content with nice explonations
My 2011 bmw 535i says low boost. I noticed there’s a ringing noise that seems to be getting louder depending on how hard the turbo is working. Do you think the noise might be related to the boost problem and if so any idea what it might be? I’m really hoping it’s not the turbo. Great video btw!
Thanks for the help, I have an ISC 8.3 1999 In my Monico Rv. Just changed cracked exhaust manifold. Air side of turbo spins freely, no boost, can hear turbo at all when reving engine slightly, 12-1300 rpm. I haven't check the actuator yet, but it could also be EGR valve?
If your egr is stuck closed your combustion chamber Temps will be high which can cause exhaust manifold to be hotter and more prone to cracking. If your egr is stuck open exhaust can be going into intake when it's not supposed to causing low power and stalling. Exhaust that should be spinning the turbo is going through intake. Boost can also be going into exhaust through a stuck open egr causing low or no boost. Definitely something worth looking into. Let me know what the problem is once you find it.
I have an BMW 525D F111 2012. The workshop has replaced a new turbo. I had a turbo crash. My car has passes 154000 km. Still I have very low boost. What is the standarrd psi for a turbo on stock? The workshop has just replaced the turbo without any adjustment on the waste gate. I complain and the workshop ask for 375 pund more to do a check. Do you have any suggestion what can be wrong?
Sup bro , been up like 13 hours doing this turbo for a series 60 motor I’m new to this not really I just ain’t that good but the turbo blade was shot turbo actuator just locked up bad . After installing the new one and getting It calibrated with my computer ,When I start the truck it’s surging ? I replaced batteries on the truck a day prior just cuhz they looked like shit and we live in Arizona . Before I start the truck it says low voltage ? And when I start it it goes up to 15 if I hit the throttle a little bit it goes up even higher but then the engine starts running like shit and I turn it off . I’m not getting no codes related The turbo anymore those all Cleared out . I changed the alternator after seems like a reasonable thing to change . But the new one doing the same shit ? 2 faults I’m Getting Sam chassis short lo ? And then 530602 fmi4 ? You think it’s something electrical? Or you think it may have a leak like you was talking about ?
I would double check all the battery connections. Clean? Tight? Proper location? Alot of the bigger trucks draw power for the ecms right from the battery box. Check for corroded wiring going to inline fuses. Also look at battery disconnect switch. Those connections like to loosen off and arc out. If your battery voltage is good but the ecm reads low... I'd look closely at that. Let me know how it works out for you. Good luck, keep me posted. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for getting back . Driver got a rebuilt turbo and that lever was just Stuck the place he got it from Says oh maybe your particular filters are really plugged up to where soot just plugged up the levers . I got it back again today just threw it on and now I’m going to calibrate it. But when I turn the key on the gear just continuously spins. On the Actuator and don’t stop . Idk if that’s not Alt or not . Turbo rebuild place , said they already calibrated it and I don’t need too . but I don’t believe them because the actuator has to be on the truck to properly be calibrated correct ? any ideas ? Or should I just go And calibrate it when that little hear just spins with the key on . That’s not normal Is it ?
My car has been making 5psi less on boost after I put in a brand new engine block with zero miles on it. My original engine timing jumped and the pistons hit the valves. The intake & exhaust valves are still all intacked with the old engine and they dont look that damaged, the shop said the valve stems where just bent and didn't break off. When they drained the oil there were metal flakes in the old engine oil. Could this have damaged my turbo on the turbine exhaust side? I dont know if small metal debris got into it or if Im having some other type of issue?
Just a thought. If it started after the new motor was installed, I would check all my clamps and possibly the exhaust for restrictions. Check your turbine and impeller. Make sure they spin freely. Hope this helps. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
Hi Shaner, I have a M54A2 5ton. No egr valve. I had loss of power and black smoke in 1st gear. I had a birds nest in air fliter. I replaced air filter and vaccumed the air intake going in. I drove again and it was better, but very muffled. I was able to drive up a hill in 2nd gear, i heard a terrible rattling in the dash behind the steering wheel in engine bay, The engine is new old stock. If i take the turbo apart and clean it and still have this issue, what should i check next??? Fuel filters?? I drove this thing during winter snow and mud and it got me through very hard days. But from one day to another this issue happened. Would appreciate your help Thank you
I would start with your fuel filters first, check for boost leaks, restricted exhaust, or could be bad injector (which may explain noise) keep me posted with what you find. Good luck.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 Thank you! ill make note of that next time i have issue. It turns out i had more bark and feathers to clean at the turbo impeller. I took the whole thing off and cleaned it and put it back and the 5ton works like new again! also I bought a new air filter so even better than before. In hindsight i could have cleaned it without taking it off the engine, since its only rubber hose and hose clamps, but either way would have fixed the problem.
My 6.7 powerstroke drives with engine RPMs but no boost at all, it has a new turbo installed and it drove fine for couple of weeks then all of the sudden started to do that
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 it is still the problem, I noticed once I erase the codes works fine but after I shut the engine off and crank it again the codes are back and back to the issue
@@cowboylandscapellc2893 I believe the 6.7s have variable geometry turbos. The computer will change angle of blades in turbo which adds or reduces boost. If your Check engine light is on your computer may be reducing boost . Kind of a limp mode thing. I would look into what codes you have.
Is your check engine light on? Some computers will cut boost if it sees a problem. I would start there. Hope you figure it out. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
I don't recall. I think I gained a few psi after replacing the EGR. Next turbo problem video I do I will make sure I measure it before and after. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hello i have a Bmw f20 1.6 turbo my car goes to limp mode when i put the power down. Fault code that appears is low boost pressure. Had all the pipes smoke tested no leaks, chechked turbine for play no issue wastegate/actuator no issue. Mechanic says its boost pressure sensor woulf this be the case ?
I having low power, I lost about to gallons of oil due to a bad oil crankcase breather, do yo think running the engine for about 500 miles like that would damage the turbo? 2007 series 60 dde holset turbo
Great point. I'm keeping an eye out for a good high capacity smoke machine. Some of the smaller automotive ones won't put out enough for the bigger truck systems. Thanks for the comment.
I don't know the exact specs but I would guess you should hit 30 psi no problem. Have you found anything out? Let me know. I think you have a boost leak or maybe an exhaust restriction? Keep me posted. Thanks for .
@shanersmechaniclife3164 no boost leak after we plate the gas recirculation tube it blew soot for a while then cleared up so I'm pretty sure the exhaust was clogged, I'm going Going to take the plate off and see if the spn 102 code comes back. I bought the truck deleted. They didn't delete the gas recirculation sensor so it's throwing the only code now. Still only getting 22 lbs of boost but it spins up a lot quicker and pulls better thank you for your response
Thanks for the comment. Too many people just throw a new turbo on without spending time finding out why it failed. Fix the problem not the damage I always say.
If Cummins , never EVER BUY O'REILLY 'S SENSORS!!!!!!!ESPECIALLY MASS AIRFLOW ONE!!!!!! I SWITCHED BACK TO MY OLD CUMMINS ORIGINAL AND GOT ALL MY BOOST BACK!!
Is the cooling system building pressure as soon as you start it? If so, I'd look at headgasket issues. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a fiesta 1.4 tdci having p0299 code from 2 years ago i changed most of the sensors recently replaced the turbo aswell and still the same thing now the mechanic is telling me maybe is a clogged exhaust system..any advice pls?
Clogged exhaust could be the problem. Exhaust flow is what spins the turbo. I would do a back pressure test to verify. Could also be a clogging intercooler. Hope it works out for you. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching and commenting.
He cleaned it and tried to do regeneration but it does not accept it,(still the same no power at all)could this be because I’ve done remaping stage 1 and the guy deletet egr and dpf aswell?
ruclips.net/video/X9pzZCFXrV4/видео.html If you liked this video. Here's one I made on Turbo Oil Leaks.
I don’t know if you reply to this video anymore but I have a 2003 LB7 stock/S475. When I try to boost test it I get a bubbling or gurgling sound in the pipe that crosses from the S475 to the stock/Valley turbo. Could that be blow by? Where the pressure is going? It is a new built engine capable of being a 700HP daily driver. It has about 1500 miles on it.
Thanks dude just found my leak egr valve..thanks
Thanks for the vid man! Idk yet what my prob is but some things to check for now. LBZ Duramax, seems the vanes stick occasionally on hard acceleration? Sometimes when pulling out of my subdivision, sometimes when mashing the pedal getting on an open highway. My edge might show 8lbs boost while truck is hesitating, maintaining the same speed, then Bam 28lbs take off!
Only happens occasionally though?
👍🏻🛎🛎
Thank you very much for this video. I never had to deal with turbo for 30 years as a mechanic, now moving to Australia and having to newer diesel engines with common rail and all that. I was over whelmed enough and i then turbo on top of it. I feel more confident now
Really happy that my video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I was impressed .
You did a awesome job.
I had the luxury of working with some truly talented and knowledgeable guys .
So I really do appreciate that video I'm retired from being a diesel mechanic, but I still like helping troubleshoot my friends problems on their trucks and you jogged my memory of what to check thank you
I find that if you don't use the knowledge we have gained over the years it kinda gets lost. Once in a while, we have to give ourselves a refresher. We don't forget it, just have to dust it off a bit. Thanks for the great comment.
what would cause my crdi engine to buck back and forth when driving away from a stop? i changed maf sensor, map sensor, cleaned egr valve? would a sticky turbo or a boost leak cause this?
Sir! You deserve a medal for makin' everybody here turbo experts haha
I wouldn't go that far. Just trying to show people how smaller, cheaper, and minor problems can make it look like you need a turbo. Thanks for the great comment.
This is a bad ass video. Well done. I'm a long hauler, and this helped when I was stranded with no boost pressure in the middle of Wyoming. I'll spread the word on your videos.
Thanks for the awesome comment. Really happy that I was able to help. Especially if you were stuck between point A and point B.
I want to add that the valves/seals and pistion rings can be the source of low or no boost problems as well. If you block off before the intake manifold and put pressure after the turbo you can see if that section is leaking or not and elimate that section off. Next I would pressure test the crankcase to make sure it's not the piston rings or valve/seals.
So many base engine issues can present as turbo issues. Thanks for the great info.
Well done. We will need your help for sure. I run an independent repair shop for German and British cars and these sort of issues are very common.
People are too quick to throw new turbos at systems with boost leaks or other issues.
Thanks a lot
@@shanersmechaniclife3164
"People are too quick to throw new turbos at systems with boost leaks or other issues."
You could not be more correct. I spent so long replacing boost hoses in my land rover for a turbo underboost - P0299 DTC.
After I did that and it didn't fix the issue, thought it could be intercooler or exhaust gasket on the turbo failure or potentially a clogged DPF that's adding too much back pressure to the exhaust manifold.
Took it to the mechanics who almost immediately diagnosed it as a failed turbo.
I was so sick of having this issue (5 months now) and just agreed to the works. Guess what? Didn't fix anything.
I've just bought a smoke machine to see if I can find boost leaks this way. I've sworn off taking my car to a mechanics anymore unless I've diagnosed it and can't fix it myself.
Most mechanics nowadays just read DTC codes and have very little diagnostic skills/experience
Egr leak would have never thought of that one. Gonna pressure test tomorrow and check that first
I have seen it a few times. Tough to find without disassembly on a lot of models. How did yours test? Thanks for watching and commenting.
The best video on the issue I having with my 7.3 !! Awesome info !!! Thank you sir !!!
Thanks for the awesome comment. Hope your problem didn't cost too much to fix.
Great content and well delivered… didn’t have me skipping …. Actually had me going back to make sure I got the info 😂
Thanks for the great comment and I'm glad you found my video helpful.
Maybe if your boost is too low for what you need you can increase the air and fuel mixture on your boost sensor by adding a potential meter to send message to the computer and it doesn't overheads any diodes or resistors works very good
Overheating
Thank you some quack mechanics almost made me buy new turbo and boost sensor was the case
Very happy to hear my video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching.
Probably the best video ever.. Concise and informative.. thank you Sir.
You are welcome, and thank you very much for the great feedback. I really appreciate it. Thanks for watching.
I have disassembled my whole intake and exhaust side, and took the turbos off (twin turbo system) and looked for a leak. Also replaced all old rubber lines with new ones.
I couldnt find any leak, yet the car wont boost past 14 psi anymore (normal is 22 psi), and when leak testing (like in your video) I was only able to build up 4 psi or so, and that fell down quickly too.
Even connected a smoke generator but the smoke came out the exhaust only. Did a compression test after that, but all was fine.
The only thing I found was that the turbo wheels have quite some play if you press the shaft up and down or left and right (back and forth is no movement at all). And they also click when doing that. One turbo (the one that is most prone to failure from other drivers experience) was also leaking a bit oil at the combined oil feed and drain line, or maybe where the turbo housings are connected with a spring ring. Its hard to tell, since they are close together. But the whole lower part of the turbo is full of oily soot and before I removed them I saw a drop of oil forming on that area. I also had more oil in the intercooler pipes than normal ("puddles" formed between rubber connectors, and dripped out when I took off the pipes).
What do you think is the cause? The play in the turbo shaft?
Yes your turbo is shot if there is any side to side play that isnt extremely minuscule
The easiest was is take an airline and fit it in the boost pipe just after air filter. Fill up and see if air leaks out. Then if using scan tool go live data and search boost. All boost pids will appear. Look at boost sensor and note that figure then look at commanded. Note that figure. Accelerate and the boost should rise and figure be same as commanded. If not disconnect actuator arm and slightly wedge gas pedal. Look at scan tool as you put the actuator arm in turbo. Does boost increase. Yes then actuator or wiring or computer fault. No then turbo crap.
Thats my understanding
If you have a computer of course
@ yep of course. When things are mentioned clearly you would need those things. Thats why I mentioned them. Of course.
Ok I give you more advice here. I wont mention what I mean you just guess YEAH. 😂😂😂
Well explained...love this video, really puts in the right sect to work and fix future turbo charger issues.❤
Thanks for the wonderful comment and for watching. Too many people fix the visible problem and not the cause, only to have the same thing happen a short time after.
You kept it simple and informative. Thanks
Thanks for the great feedback. I try to give as much info in a reasonable length video.
DD15 getting spn 102 fmi 18 changed air filters sensors and did a air charge cooler pressure test, still getting low intake pressure #1 code.
Great explanation.
Thanks for watching and the positive feedback.
I have a Buick Encore with the 1.4L turbo engine. It had a P0299 low boost trouble code. I had determined it was the turbo after much diagnosis. I received a letter from Buick that if my engine has this problem, Buick was required to replace the turbo if the vehicle has less than 120,000 miles and is less than 10 years old. I just got my car back from the dealer. They replaced the turbo and related parts. Cost? $0.00. This may be the same for all the GM 1.4L Eco Boost engines.
Glad they covered you under warranty. Turbos aren't cheap. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 I was surprised it cost me $0.00. I was sure they'd find a way to charge a few hundred dollars or refuse to fix it because I do my own service. I have had that happen before and I don't trust dealers.
great vid. thanks man. We have a M11 Cummins in our lobster boat. Aftercooler keeps clogging off, and the air filter becomes black/clogged immediately.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope you find the problem soon. Let me know what the issue is once you find it.
Sir,Your explanation on troubleshooting the turbo issues are crystal clear !I have a Mitsubishi Starion turbo intercooler,year 1986 for the past 25 years. Actually it runs slow hardly any boost,parts are hard to find !Nevertheless thank you for your advice.Regards.
Thanks. Parts are hard to get for newer vehicles. Older vehicles are even harder. Have you tried aftermarket? Try measuring yours up and see what you can find online.
I have a 86 LeBaron turbo with no boost. Our engines might be the same. Did you figure out why you weren't getting boost?
That was a very good video but it did not explain a common low boost cause. That would be the dump gate sticking open or the actuator or solenoid not working. I guess he is saving that for another video.
Good point. Another overlooked cause for sure. I appreciate your feedback. Thanks for watching.
Super informative and straight forward. Thank you I needed a video like this.
Thank you for the great comment. Glad you liked it. I'm hoping to put out some more turbo videos in the future.
Gotta watch those DPFs are not blocked. no air flow=no vane speed=no boost or power.
Good point. Need good airflow in and out. This particular truck is pre dpf Era. Thanks for your input.
Ford Ranger 2.2 underboost state appears during hard acceleration uphill, hose was fine, intake seal and gaskets are fine 😊
Have you figured out your ranger? I would check if your exhaust is restricted. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for a great vid, you made it sound so easy to understand. Thank you.
Thanks for the positive response. A lot of people hear turbo and automatically think it's too complicated.
Great video keep them coming brother
Thank very much, very well done video. Will try all that I can to find me problem.
You are welcome. Hope your problem is an easy fix. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for that information, very helpful.
Glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
This is a beautiful video. Thank you. Are you supposed to be able to move there actuator switch by hand?
Thanks for the great comment. You should be able to move the mechanical pieces by hand on this model but not the electronic pieces. Other turbos can be different depending on if there is return spring tension. Kind of a yes and no answer.
Excellent testing thanks 👌
I appreciate your positive feedback. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very good video, thanks
Thanks for watching and the great feedback.
That was great, very informative thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching
I'm very happy because seen something new today check out for the leaks with liquid water
EXACTLY WHAT A TYRE PLACE DO FOR CONFIRMATION OF LEAKING
Thanks for your help
Some times basic tools and methods are the best. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for shearing your knowledge 🙏 I learned something new today 😊
Glad i was able to help. I love sharing knowledge and tricks if learned. Thanks for the great comment.
Do you have a video about the vacuum box (black box with pipes)? How do i know it's bad? Looking forward hearing from you sir.
Great video it helped out a lot
Glad it was helpful for you. So many things can cause low boost. Be a shame to spend big bucks on a new turbo only to have the same low boost issue.
Good video. Can the same soapy water method be used while the engine is running?
Yes, absolutely. Works great for tire leaks and airbrake leaks also. Thanks for watching.
Great video.. lots of useful information for the vehicle owners to save money
Glad you enjoyed the video. Keeping vehicles maintained cost a lot of money. I'm always happy to share info.
U make some good points...thank u
You're welcome. Thanks for the positive feedback. I appreciate it
Nice video I found a leaking oil from the turbo of my bus New Flyer with a Cummins ISL engine
Thanks. Where was it leaking from?
Check your air filter. Hard to build boost without air.
True. You can't boost the pressure of the air if it's not getting any.
Thank you for sharing the knowledge
You are more than welcome. I don't like seeing people spend their hard-earned money on parts that don't fix their issue. Thanks for watching.!
I always see bad turbo videos but could you make a video how a good turbo would function and sound? I am about to buy a seat leon 2.0 tsfi fr from 2008 and i have no experience with turbo cars or the seat leon to begin with! Cheers.
Good point. Lots of "this is bad" videos out there.
Well done mate.
Hi can you run the engine and do the spray leak test
Yes, just be careful of the fan, belts, and other moving parts.
I know nothing but cars but now I have a twin turbo car. Anytime I get on the gas the ecu light comes on and said low boost.
Sounds like a boost leak. I would check all your hoses and clamps first. Look for black traces at the joints. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
I really thank you for a great video, very helpful, easy to learn with your energy
You are more than welcome. Thank you very much for the great comment. Glad you enjoyed the video.
How about the air buster sensor? This is the easiest.
VGT turbos do not change blade geometry. They move a sliding plate back and forth over the turbine vanes, controlling the amount of vane available to generate rotational power, via an exterior actuator.
I can tell you that the VGT turbo on my 6.0 rotates the vanes, which is changing geometry. Not sure what kind of turbos you've been looking at.
@@ProleDaddy The vane orientation or slant is what changes, not the vane geometry. Just like the vanes of a helicopter are adjusted. SCBANE is right.
do we need the number 1 cylinder at TDC to test boost leak ?
No you don't. TDC on #1 only has both valves closed on that cylinder. Other cylinders will be in various positions. Thanks for watching.
Very informative….. well done
Glad you liked it. Information is a valuable tool. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good work
Nice video.. I have the same problem low turbo boost on my 97 ram 2500 turbo diesel Cummins 5.9 I’m gonna try the soapy test I hope that’ll fixed the problem
Thanks for the comment and for watching. Were you able to find your boost leak? What was it?
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 I had no boost leak on my truck… what would be my 2nd option
I'm still waiting for a computer controlled boost that runs off the alternator/ battery
I have code P0106 (MAP sensor) and P2580 (turbo speed sensor) my truck will build proper boost some days, others it wont, im getting a slight squeak from the front after about a month of having the issue. Tried replacing both sensors and checking all wiring. Exhaust brake only really works when truck is warm. Turbo builds right voltage aswell, any ideas?
I wonder if the exhaust brake is sticking partially closed causing turbo not to spin fast enough? Hope you find the problem and an easy fix. Keep me posted and thanks for watching.
Great video with very good explenations for amatuers like myself.
I currently have an unsolved problem on my car. Its an audi a7 2013 3.0 bitdi. Had boost leak and bad mechanics pointed me to changing turbos.
Now I have no boost untill 1800rpm. Small turbo is working from 1800 - 2700 rpm then big turbo takes over.
I have vac checked my turbo. Did also egr and dpf delete as these got dirty with time. Car is running good but still no boost under 1800rpm
Do you think its needing a calibration on the electronic actuator? Audi refused me a calibration as i dont think they know this car good enough..
Do you think you can consult me with a help as you seem to be a real proffesional in this area 😅 pretty desperate at this time
Have you checked your exhaust for restrictions? Low exhaust flow can cause low turbo speed and boost. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
@shanersmechaniclife3164 hello my friend I did have problems with the dpf and went to a tuner who programmed both of my dpfs off and also removed the insides so 0 restrictions as he thought that was the cause.
For now it seems my turbo needs to be calibrated as we can not find any other cause and audi is refusing me that because I put a refurbished turbo inside 😆 im hitting a big Wall here.
And thank you for great content with nice explonations
My 2011 bmw 535i says low boost. I noticed there’s a ringing noise that seems to be getting louder depending on how hard the turbo is working. Do you think the noise might be related to the boost problem and if so any idea what it might be? I’m really hoping it’s not the turbo. Great video btw!
Hey man I’m having same issues on my 08 335i and update ? It like whines and I think threw the 30ff code due to low boost
Thanks for the help, I have an ISC 8.3 1999 In my Monico Rv. Just changed cracked exhaust manifold. Air side of turbo spins freely, no boost, can hear turbo at all when reving engine slightly, 12-1300 rpm. I haven't check the actuator yet, but it could also be EGR valve?
If your egr is stuck closed your combustion chamber Temps will be high which can cause exhaust manifold to be hotter and more prone to cracking. If your egr is stuck open exhaust can be going into intake when it's not supposed to causing low power and stalling. Exhaust that should be spinning the turbo is going through intake. Boost can also be going into exhaust through a stuck open egr causing low or no boost. Definitely something worth looking into. Let me know what the problem is once you find it.
I have an BMW 525D F111 2012. The workshop has replaced a new turbo. I had a turbo crash. My car has passes 154000 km. Still I have very low boost. What is the standarrd psi for a turbo on stock? The workshop has just replaced the turbo without any adjustment on the waste gate. I complain and the workshop ask for 375 pund more to do a check. Do you have any suggestion what can be wrong?
Great video👍
Thank you for the great comment. Glad you liked it.
Sup bro , been up like 13 hours doing this turbo for a series 60 motor I’m new to this not really I just ain’t that good but the turbo blade was shot turbo actuator just locked up bad . After installing the new one and getting
It calibrated with my computer ,When I start the truck it’s surging ? I replaced batteries on the truck a day prior just cuhz they looked like shit and we live in Arizona . Before I start the truck it says low voltage ? And when I start it it goes up to 15 if I hit the throttle a little bit it goes up even higher but then the engine starts running like shit and I turn it off . I’m not getting no codes related
The turbo anymore those all
Cleared out . I changed the alternator after seems like a reasonable thing to change . But the new one doing the same shit ? 2 faults I’m
Getting Sam chassis short lo ? And then 530602 fmi4 ? You think it’s something electrical? Or you think it may have a leak like you was talking about ?
I would double check all the battery connections. Clean? Tight? Proper location? Alot of the bigger trucks draw power for the ecms right from the battery box. Check for corroded wiring going to inline fuses. Also look at battery disconnect switch. Those connections like to loosen off and arc out. If your battery voltage is good but the ecm reads low... I'd look closely at that. Let me know how it works out for you. Good luck, keep me posted. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for getting back . Driver got a rebuilt turbo and that lever was just Stuck the place he got it from
Says oh maybe your particular filters are really plugged up to where soot just plugged up the levers . I got it back again today just threw it on and now I’m going to calibrate it. But when I turn the key on the gear just continuously spins. On the Actuator and don’t stop . Idk if that’s not
Alt or not .
Turbo rebuild place , said they already calibrated it and I don’t need too . but I don’t believe them because the actuator has to be on the truck to properly be calibrated correct ? any ideas ? Or should I just go
And calibrate it when that little hear just spins with the key on . That’s not normal
Is it ?
And is the engine getting the fuel it needs to being to create the exhaust pressure to spin that thingy
Good point. Turbo won't work very well if the engine is running poorly.
My car has been making 5psi less on boost after I put in a brand new engine block with zero miles on it. My original engine timing jumped and the pistons hit the valves. The intake & exhaust valves are still all intacked with the old engine and they dont look that damaged, the shop said the valve stems where just bent and didn't break off. When they drained the oil there were metal flakes in the old engine oil. Could this have damaged my turbo on the turbine exhaust side? I dont know if small metal debris got into it or if Im having some other type of issue?
Just a thought. If it started after the new motor was installed, I would check all my clamps and possibly the exhaust for restrictions. Check your turbine and impeller. Make sure they spin freely. Hope this helps. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
Hi Shaner,
I have a M54A2 5ton. No egr valve.
I had loss of power and black smoke in 1st gear. I had a birds nest in air fliter. I replaced air filter and vaccumed the air intake going in.
I drove again and it was better, but very muffled. I was able to drive up a hill in 2nd gear, i heard a terrible rattling in the dash behind the steering wheel in engine bay,
The engine is new old stock.
If i take the turbo apart and clean it and still have this issue, what should i check next??? Fuel filters??
I drove this thing during winter snow and mud and it got me through very hard days. But from one day to another this issue happened.
Would appreciate your help Thank you
I would start with your fuel filters first, check for boost leaks, restricted exhaust, or could be bad injector (which may explain noise) keep me posted with what you find. Good luck.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 Thank you! ill make note of that next time i have issue. It turns out i had more bark and feathers to clean at the turbo impeller. I took the whole thing off and cleaned it and put it back and the 5ton works like new again! also I bought a new air filter so even better than before. In hindsight i could have cleaned it without taking it off the engine, since its only rubber hose and hose clamps, but either way would have fixed the problem.
Informative video 👍
Thank you for watching and the great comment. I enjoy making videos and appreciate the feedback.
Would oil cooler leak affect the boost?
My 6.7 powerstroke drives with engine RPMs but no boost at all, it has a new turbo installed and it drove fine for couple of weeks then all of the sudden started to do that
Did you find what was wrong? Boost leak? Or turbo warranty?
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 it is still the problem, I noticed once I erase the codes works fine but after I shut the engine off and crank it again the codes are back and back to the issue
@@cowboylandscapellc2893 I believe the 6.7s have variable geometry turbos. The computer will change angle of blades in turbo which adds or reduces boost. If your Check engine light is on your computer may be reducing boost . Kind of a limp mode thing. I would look into what codes you have.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 codes are for low voltage circuit at glow plugs, I have no idea how to test them
Thanks for sharing
No problem. Thanks for watching
Thank you. Good information
Glad it was helpful! What kinds of videos do you think youtube needs more of? I'm always looking for ideas. Thanks
If the impeller is damaged it would whines spinning noise then go into limp mode I'd it totally gone
Also if the bearings have excessive play it could be rubbing on the turbo housing.
I have this same boost problem on my explorer 2018 sport.
Did you get your explorer fixed? Was it just the EGR?
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 no I get P0238 P0236 all turbo related and power generation issues
I have a Cummins isx 15 has a leak I don’t know where come from what’s your advice for me do you think buy remanufacture one is it work
Thanks for the information.
No problem. Glad you found it helpful.
Good info thank you !!
Your welcome. Glad you liked it. Are there any other types of videos you'd like to see? I'm always looking for ideas.
With me we have serviced my turbo from there I'm experiencing low boost
I would double check everything you had apart. Perhaps a loose clamp? Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
2014 chevy Cruze diesel no power blue smoke thickness back fire
Is your check engine light on? Some computers will cut boost if it sees a problem. I would start there. Hope you figure it out. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 no checks engine lights just turbo
I did put on k£n cold intake over heat the turbo
Thank you sir
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting.
What was ur PSI boost mesurment
I don't recall. I think I gained a few psi after replacing the EGR. Next turbo problem video I do I will make sure I measure it before and after. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hello i have a Bmw f20 1.6 turbo my car goes to limp mode when i put the power down. Fault code that appears is low boost pressure. Had all the pipes smoke tested no leaks, chechked turbine for play no issue wastegate/actuator no issue. Mechanic says its boost pressure sensor woulf this be the case ?
Could be the boost pressure sensor. Also check the connector and wiring. Hope it works out for you. Keep me posted with what you find.
Great video
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it. There are a lot of issues that can show up as turbo issues. What problems were you having?
I having low power, I lost about to gallons of oil due to a bad oil crankcase breather, do yo think running the engine for about 500 miles like that would damage the turbo? 2007 series 60 dde holset turbo
I would clean it all and fix your crankcase vent issue. Run it for a while and check your turbo before you replace it. Let me know how it works out.
Can this cause over boosting?
Boost leaks won't cause over boosting. Faulty wastegate or blow off valve could. Over pressuring with the tester can cause leaks. Thanks for watching.
Great job bro
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate your feedback.
Thanks!
Your welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you.
No problem. Glad you liked it. Hoped it helped.
A smoke test may work too, just saying!!
Great point. I'm keeping an eye out for a good high capacity smoke machine. Some of the smaller automotive ones won't put out enough for the bigger truck systems. Thanks for the comment.
My 6.4 has no boost at all when driving can it be the pcm need to be flash or up pipes
Any trouble codes? Some of the variable rate turbos will cut the boost back if it sees issues.
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 code 1639 and other code that doesn’t make sense the battery light is on and abs light is on
How much boost should a DD15 push, my truck at the max pushes between 22-25 psi on a hard pull
I don't know the exact specs but I would guess you should hit 30 psi no problem. Have you found anything out? Let me know. I think you have a boost leak or maybe an exhaust restriction? Keep me posted. Thanks for .
@shanersmechaniclife3164 no boost leak after we plate the gas recirculation tube it blew soot for a while then cleared up so I'm pretty sure the exhaust was clogged, I'm going Going to take the plate off and see if the spn 102 code comes back. I bought the truck deleted. They didn't delete the gas recirculation sensor so it's throwing the only code now. Still only getting 22 lbs of boost but it spins up a lot quicker and pulls better thank you for your response
very Nice !!
Thanks for the comment. Too many people just throw a new turbo on without spending time finding out why it failed. Fix the problem not the damage I always say.
If Cummins , never EVER BUY O'REILLY 'S SENSORS!!!!!!!ESPECIALLY MASS AIRFLOW ONE!!!!!! I SWITCHED BACK TO MY OLD CUMMINS ORIGINAL AND GOT ALL MY BOOST BACK!!
There's only so many companies that make sensors I'm willing to bet they all come from the same place just with a different label
@@ussenterp65Tons of places make sensors.
Just put a new EGR valve on a duramax and it leaked. They make junk parts now days..
I have run into that as well. I put a new water pump on a Mustang and it leaked worse than the old one.
K&n colder intake
What if I’m getting no boost and engine jerks and radiator hose keep fallen off
Is the cooling system building pressure as soon as you start it? If so, I'd look at headgasket issues. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Whats if its smoking out the exhaust??
That could be any number of issues depending on color and when it smokes.
Turbocharged for VW PASSAT CC
I have a fiesta 1.4 tdci having p0299 code from 2 years ago i changed most of the sensors recently replaced the turbo aswell and still the same thing now the mechanic is telling me maybe is a clogged exhaust system..any advice pls?
Clogged exhaust could be the problem. Exhaust flow is what spins the turbo. I would do a back pressure test to verify. Could also be a clogging intercooler. Hope it works out for you. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching and commenting.
He cleaned it and tried to do regeneration but it does not accept it,(still the same no power at all)could this be because I’ve done remaping stage 1 and the guy deletet egr and dpf aswell?
The mechanic told me there is no intercooler on this engine 2012 1.4 tdci european model