I agree, good video, only suggestion to improve that I have is to clean the turbo before the video to make all the different parts easier to identify, thank you.
Hello, I am writing from Turkey. I have a 98 model Volvo v70 T5 turbo. It is 4 x 4. How does the turbo vestek work principle of this car? Where does the turbo control valve get the command from and how does it open the signal? There is no turbo pressure sensor in this car. How does it detect it and open the turbo control valve? Thank you.
In the first 15 seconds of this video I can already tell I like this guy. I really appreciate people who are upfront, honest, and helpful. Good on you mate.
Rob I don't care if you have training or not, every time I have a problem with my V70 I always find a video on your channel which explains everything clearly and has helped me a number of times. You have helped me out massively, keep up the good work.
Thank you Robert! Your video was clear, concise & to-the-point. I no longer have the anxiety of being a Turbo-charged, vehicle-owner. I only wish that most You Tube videos were so easily understandable. Keep up the good work on being a good Teacher & I'll keep watching.
Rob I am truly impressed about you clear delivery. Your hands on way of teaching is better than any schematic animation by far. I could feel the smell of oil too while watching your video. Cheers Istvan
Robert DIY Hey Robert do you know much about aftermarket turbos and upgrading them? I'm putting on a bigger turbo and could really use some advice. Are you familiar with bigger turbos than stock and the mods that go along with it? just had a few questions for my build. thanks, subbed......
Thank you! I have a 1.8t Passat with a lot of miles, original turbo. I was thinking of replacing the turbo, but after an inspection based on your video I'm confident I can leave it alone for a quite a while-no shaft play, spins freely, no leaks. Cheers!
Good video...Robert clarified for me how a turbo works and what can go wrong with it. In his patient easy going way of explaining the mechanics of this device, I learned a few important things about the turbo
Great vid, Robert! I know nothing about cars - except that mine are always a big expensive headache, but your presentation is so understandable and actually enjoyable. I'm only here because I had my 2003 A4, 1.8 turbo in the shop today with a CE light on, less power, or not as good a pickup as I've been used to - (but not as bad as I'd expect based on what I've been reading about turbo issues, and no smoking exhaust), and a really rough idle. They cleaned about a gallon of chipmunk debris from my air filter box, cleaned the MAF sensor. Now there are 8 codes: P0300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 171,172, and 299. The mechanic said the one indicating a problem with the turbo is most likely the cause of the others. He did a visual check of hoses and wires and said everything looked fine, and would probably do a smoke test next. He also mentioned that "they" don't do much turbo work, and he spent a bunch of time on the computer, which made me nervous. So, I'll be calling someone else tomorrow (friend of my neighbors) who's apparently an audi expert for a 2nd opinion, or legitimate diagnosis. I just figured I'd see what you had to say, since you're so good at replying to folks. Thanks for the invaluable service you provide.
Robert, Thank you. I wish this video would have popped up in my "2003 Volvo S40 Smoking at idle" I've spent hours looking at possible problems. Ended up buying a compression tester to see if the rings, gasket or valves were bad. This is something I can fix. If it was rings, I was looking to donate car to trade school. After watching your video, I'm positive my smoking issue is the turbo. I hope a repair kit is available. Thanks again. Mark
Hi, I liked your video for its clear explanation and easy to understand. I have an Audi A6 3.0TDI Diesel Turbo, model 2005 that I am having problems with the turbo at certain times as follows: 1. Starting from cold the engine performs beautifully with lots of power for as long as the trip takes. 2. When starting from hot engine, the car may perform well until stopping at the first intersection or traffic lights, from then on it loses power. When in this mode, if I try to push hard, the glow plug light comes on and starts flashing. Pushing harder the computer / engine light comes on. 3. When in this mode (that is when the glow plug light is flashing), If I stop the car and turn the engine off for around 2 minutes, and then switch the engine back on it will drive normally with full power. My personal view is that the turbo sensors could be playing up. However, my local Audi Service Centre have advised that the turbo needs replacement. Thank you in advance for any advise you may have. Bill Jabro from Australia
+Robert DIY Thank you Robert for your quick response. It would seem they have read the codes. In their report they said "Checked and found fault codes on the turbo and the flap motor. Ran test plan and found turbo to be defective and the car requires a new turbo". My concern is, if the turbo is defective, why is it working properly at certain times? It could well be that it is getting the wrong signal from a sensor. I personally thought it could be a sensor issue. Prior to taking the car to Audi, a specialist local mobile mechanic pointed out that the turbo has 2 sensors and either one could be causing the problem. He was not in a position to do it then. I will contact him to arrange repairs. Thank you again Robert.
This video was very helpful and simple to understand. I like it, it help me understand about an issue with my audi A4. Now all is clear and I have a better peace of mind,
Question.. My Audi Turbo got 140K miles and my check engine goes on and then turns off randomly. She shop said it's the turbo, however tho it doesn't seem to have any of these symptoms and runs very well. Should I be worried or they're just ripping me off asking 2 grand for stock turbo?
Blackjack 335 Rip off. Just wait till the problem surfaces. They should be able to see the problem in the PENDING CODES. Stop by a parts store and see what their code reader reports.
@@RobertDIY my turbo caused heavy smoking thought it was injectors faulty at first.now I want to know could it cause blow by because found lots of oil in the induction pipe. Recently rebuilt block and head never changed the turbo.
Love your vdeos. So very well explained and spoken. Im a bit ADD with a very low tolerance for long winded speaches. You are direct to the point . Ive skipped over several vides. Yours are the only ones I watch. Great teacher, not everyone has that capability. Thank You!
Loving your video Robert. My son's first car was a Volvo 240.The reward of a well maintained car is safety, financial security (less $$$ repairs) and confidence in ownership.Your faithful public should know the manufacturer's maintenance schedule for their model is the "good book" to auto owners. Never stray from it and you will have many years of driving pleasure. I can't wait to get home and watch your video with audio.I would like to also add, if a mechanic suggests an expensive repair they should show proof of the diagnostic code and proof of the part and replacement part after completion of repair. I am considering adopting a v40 wagon 1.9T 2003. It has Turbo. The issue is it won't idle well and cuts off quickly. I do not have a lot of knowledge of the 1.9T. I believe it is more likely a pcv valve and neglected EMR in need of desperate cleaning. When should I be concerned about Turbo? It has had a good deal of auto maintenance, the owner is in despair and does not want to invest any more $. His loss may be my gain. I also see a lot of guessing by other owners as well as mechanics. Take your car to a vocational ASE school and have them code it for you. It will save you a lot of head ache and be educational for the supervised student. Also coding is not difficult to learn and many diagnostics can be purchased for your year and make on ebay or at a local pawn for a reasonable $. It has been my experience, many ASE mechanics are bullies to the fixed income folks and make up for dominate personalities when they lack continued education and do not get immediate profit.The internet allows us to witness this first hand in writing.Also search the repair for your make and model online. They will give estimates and local shop comparisons in your area. If you are not savvy with a computer, have a librarian assist you at your local library.May peace, love, hope, and joy be yours!
Smashing tutorial robert :D, there are allways bits to learn. I did have to laugh though, when you were talking about the exhaust impella you called it a "turban" and thats a wrapped material head covering on an indian/pakistani/sikhs/other gentleman, i could not get rid of the image of his turban spinning on his head, sorry but it was so funny :D I know you ment "turbine" but i have a silly sense of humor lol :D
Robert DIY No, if im going to watch your video, then i do listen, sometimes twice over as some things fly over my head and need a second bite of the pizza to digest the goodness within... ha ha yep im being silly :D
zx8401ztv He didn't say it wrong, it's his accent. He calls hills "heels," too. Not wrong, just one of the many wonderful ways of speaking English. BTW video was very helpful! For a little while I was getting a weird chugging around 2000rpm and around 3000rpm, especially going up hills around 100+kmh. I was worried my turbo was starting to go. I don't know what happened (drive an '04 XC70), but it doesn't do it anymore and works like it's supposed to.
CptSchmidt Robert knows im just a daft person, my hearing is not very good and with constant loud tinitus i sometimes have problems, im not being nasty to him in any way :-)
zx8401ztv ok cool :P My dad used to have tinnitus and said it's awful. Sometimes I wonder if I have it. Usually when it's quiet especially at night I get a ringing in my ears. Usually I don't even notice it, but if I think about it I can hear it. Hopefully it stays that way because it seems like it could be a lot lot worse :)
Literally the best video I have ever seen! This dude is literally a genius and I have never scene someone explain a car part better. He literally explains every little detail and it's actually amazing to listen to even though I don't like cars.
Robert DIY no problem dude. I'm about to do my wheel bearing here today but I also into a dress some kind of exhaust problem I think. When I accelerate hard the car gets really sluggish and we'll make a popping sound almost like backfiring. From what I understand I think it might be the catalytic converter. I have a 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser 2.4 l Turbo. Any ideas?
Surprised you didn't get a ticket from blowing all that smoke throughout the neighborhood testing that Volvo (4:35). Well done video. You have explained to me why my '89 Dodge Spirit Turbo is smoking up the neighborhood and has lost some power. I bore scoped the cylinders, tested compression, inspected the intake system for oil; all good. Didn't know where to look next. Much appreciate this video!
Great video. When I watched this the first time last year, I was convinced to get rid of my 96 V70 with 200k miles. I had a bad oil seal which showed up when I plugged a hole in the PTC nipple. Symptoms occurred initially when I would let off the throttle after accelerating up a hill. Progressively got worse to the point like the video. Not the only reason I sold, minor warped head (water getting into cylinder) and transmission issues (most likely PNP switch). Volvos are wonderful cars but stay away over 150k miles unless you are a good mechanic with a lot of tools and time.
Hi rob, thanks for your help, I had a smoke test on the car today & you were right there was a leak, it was from a gasket, when the metals expanded under heat the gap closed,thanks again. Terry.
My 2018 Civic EXT, 1.5 liter, turbo, GDI, CVT: I NEVER redline. I rarely exceed 4k RPM I rarely drive short distances I never exceed 2.5k RPM until the oil reaches optimal temperature. I ALWAYS change the oil/filter early (approx. every 4,200 miles) with Honda 0W-20 synthetic and OEM filter. When I complete my drive, I wait at least a minute on idle before turning off. I only use top tier fuel (93 Octane with the highest detergent). After over four years and 126,900 trouble-free miles I’m happy with my Civic. I’m hoping to get at least 300k miles without repairing my engine, turbo, or CVT. 🙏
Thanks Robert. that was an extremely informative video. Volvo S80 is in the shop right now for a turbo. I've never done one but at least I'm much more up to speed thanks to you.
thank you for this fantastic video :) i'm replacing my turbo for my Audi A4 tomorrow! What happend was that the oil pressure went away due to me accidently damaging my oil pan wich i replaced with a new one :) So the problem that my turbo got was that it didn't help my car boosting up! Wish me luck (y)
Thanks Robert. Brilliant Video. It helped me alot. After watching this video it saved me a serious amount of cash. I was at the point of refurbing the entire Engine on my Peugeot 207 cc 1.6 THP 115kw, only to find that the car was smoking due to a damaged shaft rather than a denotated Piston and Oil Rings.
I came across your video while trying to help my cac figure out what was going on with our 2002 volvo 2.4t v70. Bam there you were with a car that looked just like ours pouring smoke out the back. At first my dad also thought it was the head gasket but it looks just like your video. Thanks for making the vid...Will let ya know how ours turns out.
I just found your video Robert..... yesterday I took my Volvo S40 2004 LSE to the garage because 2 days ago I the check engine light came on, and also realized that I was missing "power", they tooked the car for a spin and they said it was the Turbo that it was completly "gone", so I got very frustrated because I knew that would be expensive around $900 bucks for a used one including instalation...., but I called the original dealer in order to just double check if that was the real problem, they asked me to better bring the car and do an scanner and a test drive so I did a few hrs later, effectively the engineer told me the same that it was some trouble with the turbo but he doubt that it was the Turbo it self!, because they also mentioned the smoking symptoms that I did not have on my car, so they looked ath the back in the hood and realized that the "ROD PIN" that open the wastegate was loose, so they just pulled back on original position and fixed with some clips... mins after they checked the oil was good, we tooked another road test and instantlly we feel the diference on the boost!!! It was an 1hr labor no pieces and only "ended up very cheap at the end" lucky me! - I just have a question Robert How can I realize if my Volvo is boosting good rpm? Thnks!
I have a 2005 VOLVO s60 2.5T it has total reduced engine power and it is making a kinda whirring noise between shifting any thoughts please and thanks a bunch !
Great Video! I have a 2004 Xc70. With no boost pressure. I checked if it spins and all good there, waste gate can move. Don't now what else to look for? A friend gauged it at 1psi. Car runs great, no smoke
Hi thanks for your informative video. I have a M57n2 engine with a garret gt22 turbo and i also asked some mechanics here who atomaticaly told me thats the turbo but i am not really sure. - there is a whining noise although the turbo has only 40k km it an original one not rebuilt and had also oilpipe replaced back then.... - ther is no smoke coming out like in the video - no shaft play at all and it spins very smoothly - ther is a little bit of oil on the air intake side of the turbo that was also dripping underneath it - there is no significant engine oil usage - i took off the particle filter the air intake pipe and also the pipe that goes to the intercooler but there is still that whining noise at 1500-2200 rpm - the turbine blade are in perfect shape and look like new - car is as fast and has same acceleration time from 60-160km/h like before the whining noise began - oil is new aral supertronic 0w40 - engine breather (i hope that is called like that) is also new - new air filter - new diesel filter - removed swirl flaps - new thermostate - new water pump here are some photos and a sound file of the whining noise drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFx5nbIvyFtVDQ1OExiY04tM3c drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFx5nbIvyFtOTFfWVBrdmJNME0 what do you think do I need to replace that turbo? thanks
I have not looked at photos or listened to the sound file, to risky for me. He's the deal from my point of view... If you take care of the turbo, it can last a long time. I'm not sure if your turbo is factor new or some modified unbalanced unit. If there is oil leaking into the intercooler, I'd be a little concerned. Other than that, if it is still boosting good, I wouldn't worry about a little noise. Are you using full synthetic engine oil? Are you running more boost than it is designed to run?
Man, I don't know how your car runs with the turbo intake off. It actually sounds like an alternator whine to me. Pull the belt off of the alternator and see if it stops.
I havent found any information on this anywhere else, but my turbo makes a chirp/click ever since last night, the intensity and speed is directly correlated to boost pressure, and then I have a putting sound, like a beatered Volkswagen almost. It's super loud. I also have found fresh oil spots under my car, from the diver side behind the block, probably from the turbo. Will check for play or signs of seizing but the loud putting and clicking aren't mentioned so if you have any ideas about what that could be, let me know. Thanks for the vids, I would be soooooo lost on this car without your channel! I check here first, as a rule.
Great video and explanation. I have a VW Caddy and it doesn’t blow smoke at idle but it blows allot of white/greyish smoke (like your James Bond moment in the video) whilst driving or under load. In your video i noticed the smoke was constantly blowing even at idle. So my question is does it matter whether or not you have smoke at idle or not at idle,
This video is so informative as the turbo in my car went into limp mode so garage claimed turbo faulty no symptoms as mentioned here do now know what to check for first Thank you amazing video
That was absolutely awesome and so very clear dude you are awesome you save me from selling my Volvo XC90 after a coolant leak cause the engine to overheat we did not lose the engine but it is clear now that the turbo suffered so grateful thank you
Mr.Robert, EXCELLENT video sir.. very informative.... I will subscribe as I am working or repairing a turbo unit on my 2008 Subaru WRX Impezza.... I am opting( if no housing damage to rebuild it using a rebuild kit). Your attention to detail in your explanations of turbo functionality and possible causes for failure and what to look for are exemplary sir.
great vid man thanks for taking the time to make it and help the rest of us and it looks like the guy who had removed that bad turbo came by and gave your vid a thumbs down.
thank you very much for the information. Problem - 1998 Supra, Precision 6766 Turbo, tons of white smoke after 5, 10 mins of driving, never ran hot, no oil leak in driveway but the tailpipe is caked with oil on the inside, oil on 3 of the spark plugs, minimal or no loss of power, no stalling, no overheating, the engine compression & variation is acceptable, 70,000 miles on the Precision turbo, not a racer, daily driver . Does this sound like worn seals or what ? If so, how much to replace worn seals and what shop in Miami or Florida is recommended ? Drag International, Titan ? Thanks anyone and thank you Robert DIY for the very nice explanation of the workings of a turbo, great video, thanks alot.
@@RobertDIY yeah I'm trying to get my neighbor to take my turbo off so I can check the things that you mentioned, I don't have the tools to remove it. You made an excellent video with no bells and whistles just usable information great job thanks
Robert DIY. Okay my blades are chewed up horribly, where do all those chewed up bits go? So now is this something that can be repaired with a new turbine, lmpella shaft drive or whatever you call it or do I need a new turbo and what about the oil line feed ? So I have a precision 6766 I'm thinking with replacing it with either another precision 6776 dash 6062 or 6266 , any thoughts. Thank you so much
Love the video! I have a noise that sounds like the turbo compresser wheel in my Audi A4 has damadge. When i hit about 1.5k rpm it sounds like an animal being tortured.
Hi robert, I saw in this video that there was extreme amount of smoke under boost. However, I’m getting clouds of white smoke ONLY after idling for exactly 2 minutes. Never happens under the following; under boost, decel or decel down hills or in the mornings after sitting. It also only happens in ‘N’ or ‘P’ and goes away when I put it back in ‘D’ and drive off. The turbo is kinda new (just under a year), and the car is an Audi A4 2.0T 2013 TFSI (Note: I did have a blockage in the exhaust, cat broke down and wedges inside) that may have caused premature failure of internals? But at this stage, I’m reading mixed information online, but seems to be consistent either between “turbo hot seal” or “exhaust valve stem seal” And another possibility is that I may have noticed this after installing a catchcan that bypasses (uses the existing and not deleting) the OEM PCV What’s your thoughts? Any quick tests that can be done before I try remove the expensive catch can, reverting back to stock to see if it improves the vacuuum?
Very informative video! Excellent work! My car (Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4) smokes only on deceleration (vacuum) and only after going into boost... I have recently rebuilt the turbos and I have also replaced the heads with newly rebuilt ones. I also replaced the PCV valve with a brand new OEM one. What would be causing the smoking? Thank you!
Thank you got your informative video.I am going to be changing the turbo in my 2001 Audi A4 this next weekend.I bought an oem turbo and install kit .I also bought a new intake manifold so I can mount everything new to it .Do you have a step by step process to replace a turbo in that car.Thank you sir for your time.
Good video and well explained. looking for previous comments just have a question for the "certified mechanics" why you guys don't make videos like this if all you can do is say that you guys know better?? well I digress great video and well detailed made me a bit less ignorant thank you so much
Hi Robert, I own a Lincoln MKT, that I purchased about seven months ago. It drive fine until a few months ago. My wife noticed that the engine light came on so had her take it to AutoZone and have the codes read. Came back as oxygen sensors, so I replaced those. Unfortunately, as soon as that was done, started it up, went for a drive and immediately noticed thick white smoke from the tail pipe (which it was not doing prior). Took it to the mechanic and was told it was the engine, and to replace would be $4k. Had the car taken to the Lincoln dealership (where I purchased the car from), and was told that my water pump blew, which caused both turbos to blow, and repairs would be $5k. I have since replaced the water pump myself ( using the factory service manual), and am on to the turbos. However, before I start I was wondering if I would have to actually replace the turbos simply because the water pump blew?
Robert DIY, we have driven it and the acceleration was slow on pickup, didn't have the boost that it had before. I'm in the process as we speak, putting back together the front engine cover, intake manifold, valve covers, etc. I have thought about replacing the fluids once I'm done and taking it out again to see if the new water pump solved the problem. I just can't wrap my brain around the fact that the turbos blew just that fast from the water pump going out. Just figured that maybe by some chance the white smoke was coming from the bad water pump, which caused the lack of acceleration. Oil was fine, and coolant was fine once I drained them ( not mixed together).
+tcummingssr is the check engine light on? Usually, when the water pump fails it blows the head gaskets. If that happens it can cause fluids to mix. If it is driven much after fluids mix it can damage the turbos. If the head gaskets are blown it will usually cause a misfire. Loss of power, etc. You can physically check the turbos, but if they are bad they are usually noisy, leak oil, and cause smoke to come out of the tail pipe when you accelerate.
Robert DIY Robert DIY. Thanks for the reply. No the check engine light was not on. None of the fluids were mixed, when I drained the oil and coolant, so I'm confident that the heads aren't blown. (No misfires at all). Just as simple as replacing the O2 sensors, and immediately after that white smoke from tail pipe. Dealership didn't mention a problem with the heads just a blown water pump which caused the turbos to blow from loss of coolant, so I'm wondering if the turbos may still be in good shape just misdiagnosed (went to dealership the very next day after O2 sensor replacement). I did plan on checking them off vehicle once I get them removed to determine that
Good video. So turbos are cooled via oil AND coolant? Didn't know that. Thought it was just oil. But I guess that would explain the smoke. Generally when coolant is being burned, it produces a thick, white smoke. When oil is being burned, it's a light blue smoke.
I have a 2013 ford escape with ecoboost 2.0. And i have a bad grind sound where the turbo is. Also have a code that has to deal with the turbo. Have you heard a turbo grind really bad for any reason? Turbo drives well and still feel it pull when boost kicks in. Just has a very loud grinding sound. Maybe one of the blades got bent and rubs while it spins?? Awesome video very well done! !!
Grinding sound is probably something else. If a blade gets bent or something, it will not rub the housing. Turbo's spin so fast that wouldn't last a few seconds.
Have you seen many turbos fail and dump coolant into the exhaust. I have a 02 xc70 and it is loosing a lot of coolant through the exhaust but the compression is great on all cylinders.
Robert DIY I had a feeling you would say that. I have done probably a half dozen head gaskets on these cars and this one seemed different. But yeah I will do a leak down and see what that tells me. Thanks for all the videos I thought I knew Volvos then I saw your videos it's awesome.
My gti burns substantial oil and it only smokes once a day, or basically if I wrap out first through fourth, but when I just normally drive it and take it easy I have no issue with smoke
Great video! I'm actually renovating the engine on my Saab 9-5 Aero including the worn turbo (the car also got a TD04 turbo, but the high pressure variant) so this video was helpful. Greetings from Sweden
One question: can a turbo go bad, but no smoke, no shaft play, but no spooling up? have a saab 9-3 2000 2.0l Garrett TB25, have fitted helper spring to wategate, and when unplug wastegate pipe, no unregulated boost.
Hi Robert I have a Hyundai I 30 1.6 diesel And the turbo just start to make some noise,no smoke just the noise Is this a point where is gone breakdown ? Thank you Good job with the video
When the turbo lacks oil or actuator fails it causes bearing to a near melt down which releases small partials it's not screws that just happen to get into the turbo if you try to drive a vehicle with a failed turbo yes it will be slow the reason for this the compression can't escape and of consequence that puts internal pressure on all internal gaskets and seals get it fixed straight away or do not keep using the vehicle you are making a bigger bill for ones self
Hello Robert, thank you for the videos you make, they have been most helpful. If you have time would you please give me your opinion. I have a 02 Volvo C70 2.4l with 124,000 miles. It recently started leaking oil and got worse. The camshaft seal was popped out a little. I pushed it back in with a screw driver and it seemed to hold. I drove it for about 40 minutes and was returning home when I lost power and the car would not go any further. I started it again after several minutes of letting it set, it has a horrible knock and it sounded like a dry bearing. Does this sound like the turbo or my engine?
thanks mate , very insightful, can you tell me , the waste gate actuator -how easily should that move? when on car , engine turned off should it be slack and easy to move or stiff but moveable with effort , thanks in advance.
Thanks very much Robert, seems mines working ok then and my fault could be variable vanes sticking intermittently. Your video has been a very good tutorial for me , thank you.
Robert DIY, yeah so the blades are all chewed up, where do those bits ago is that going to complicate my life now what do I have to check for regarding that ? And if I get another precision turbo is it a simple as just putting the new one on getting it tuned and going about my life ?
I have one more day to pull parts off my parts car - 16T from a 98 T5... the turbo has about 1-2 mm of axial (back and fourth between hot and cool side) play with audiable noise when moved back and fourth, but no radial play... worth pulling off, perhaps to sell? It's gonna rain from now until the end of the weekend so it's gotta be worth at least $130 or so.
Another way a turbo can fail is the output side shaft breaks and bits go through the intercooler and into the head. This happened to me a week ago in a VW T5 Transporter. They have taken the head off for inspection and have sent it to get shaved. With gasket kit, oil, oil filter, turbo, radiator flush, coolant, labour, all up over $5000. The worst part is the timing being over the holiday period means things take longer and I'm 1000km's from home and still waiting to get moving again. The turbo had a faint whistle which a mechanic suggested it meant it was on the way out, I thought I'll be gentle with it and all will be good. Unfortunately the week before my trip I think that whistle got a little louder, but everyone would have been booked out then, 1 week before Christmas. This video is good but doesn't emphasise how bad it can go wrong. My repair bill is huge and the damage to the motor at this stage looks minimal, it could have been worse. Edit: They have allowed 16hrs labour and the turbo itself is $1700 because the VW turbo and manifold are one unit. These are Australian prices and I'm in a small town with most parts coming from outside.
Sounds a little like overkill to me. I know of people that had turbos explode and they didn't have to have 1/2 of that stuff done to the vehicle. If you look at a video or something that shows the flow of the air flow that is pressurized by the compressor wheel you'll see that it is near impossible for the bits from the compressor wheel to make it into the cylinder head. The intercooler is like a coolant radiator and the air flows over the fins within it. The metal bits would have to make it pass a lot of air passages and I simply don't see that happening. How did they determine that pieces of the turbo compressor wheel made it to the cylinder head? Besides that, if they pull the cylinder head of correctly, it likely would not need to be machined and made true, about 1/2 the time they are flat when I pull them. Some do it all the time to be "safe" and I guess that's ok but I still can't imagine bits making it that far.
Robert DIY These guys are in the category of machining any head they remove, plus the guy who machines it checks if it has gone soft. One of the guys said he heard a rattle, then switched it off and back on and the rattle left. They said the only way they would be 100% was to remove the head. They said there were some minor scratches indicating something had bounced around in there. I drove it a couple of times only 1/2 a k or so when it first happened and at one stage I heard what sounded like crap going through the exhaust. They're replacing all gaskets to do with the head, then there's some testing to be done at the end of it all. I'm a bit shocked at the price too, but it does seem like they are just doing a totally thorough job. At one stage he mentioned doing the timing belt while it's all part, but that's been done already. The 50 + yr old guy doing the work sounded like he knows his stuff and said the only way to be 100% sure was to remove the head and check the valves and so forth. With the VW turbo being so expensive and the intercooler having to come out and emptied of debris there probably wouldn't have been any change from $2500 without taking the head off. Locals told me they aren't cheap as well, as it's a small town with few options, but no one bagged the quality of their work.
Hi Robert, great videos. I am a fan. My question, I have a Volvo S80 T6 2003, twin turbo. No boost at all, recent overhall done, TCV valve came clicking while applying 12 volts on a testing procedure so I am guessing here it is ok. Vac lines tighten (makes a big difference when no pressure leaks), and son on. Although I have my wastegates disconnected, unhooked from the manifold small lever, as this is the only way I can get rid off a high pitch sound when pressing the gas. Once disconnected no sound at all and cars works well, but no boost. What I need to know dealing with the waste gates as I assume that is what my problem is, if the waste gates levers are supposed to push or to pull, ir order to be calibrated with the manifold levers. Push or pull from zero position. Thank your Robert.
Great video -- Thanks! I have a 1999 SAAB 9-3 with 175K miles and a non-working Turbo Charger. (I bought the car with 150K miles and the turbo has never worked.) No smoke, no noise, just no boost. SAABs have a turbo boost gauge the measures boost in an arc divided in three units. In keeping with tach activity, the boost gauge bounces around in the 1st third. (So it looks to me like the turbo is turning.) But even when I redline the engine, the needle will go only a couple of millimeters into the 2nd third and I feel no boost. I've never seen it enter the 3rd third of the gauge and I've never felt any boost. Based on my brief description, does this sound like a bad turbo unit to you or a deeper engine problem? Could this be a simple swap out with a new turbo charger? Thanks again for your great video!
its like white smoke but mine is throwing black smoke and there is no boost in 2 gears i mean no power from the suv , its kia sportage 2001 model, plz help me out if its a turbo problem or something else thanks
Hey Robert. Thanx man thats a really a gr8 video. I have a ? though. I have a 2.7 toyota minibus (gas ). Am planning to do a conversion to a 3.0 diesel turbo. What can be done about the lag before acceleration. When starting up on mornings it has dragging and then a potion of white smoke comes out. Any ideas?
Hey Robert, Great video, I have an 05 S40 T5, that blows out exhaust smoke periodically, sometimes heavy, sometimes light, sometimes not visible, sometimes at cold start up, rarely ever at idle. Car doesn't skip or miss when this happens, runs fine during this smoke issue. I can't find any evidence of a blown head gasket. Do you think its a turbo issue? and have you ever bought a rebuild kit for one of these Volvo turbos, if so how did that go??
They use machines that spew that kind of smoke to kill mosquitos in my country! In my 2012 S60 T4 with 68,000 Km the turbo is leaking oil. It comes down from the unit to the intercooler pipe and from there to the lower engine cover. It is a droplet but coats all the mechanicals and the pipe. There is a little blue smoke In the exhaust on a cold-cold start up. I switched from SAE 5W/30 to 5W/40 motor oil. After the oil change the engine feels less free as if the increase in engine oil viscosity increased friction within the engine. The original motor oil viscosity was 5W/20 but the dealer switched immediately to SAE 10W/30 and I went down to 5W/30 upon the purchase of the car as to get as close to the oil specification and viscosity that the owners manual intended an ACEA A5-B5 which I only found with an SAE 5W30. I replace the engine oil and filter every 6 months as I drive the car very little. What could be the culprit, how much time to total turbo failure?
Due to the design of the PCV system, the early turbo Volvo vehicles ALWAYS have oil droplets on the turbo system. Not sure if the newer ones are the same, possible.
Hey Boss. can you tell me. what people consider sikk is what we would be concerned about. compressor surge or the kids calls it Fluttering. I see it as premature wear on the unit. a lil blow off valve tuned right can help everything flow in harmony. yeah?
Quick question for you? Whats important is not to have cracks in the exhaust part off the turbo? I have a 02 golf gti and i have cracks on the exhaust part of the turbo. Any input will be nice
good video, clear explanation, simple to the bone, no annoying music over the voice, thanks
+TheEdudo Thanks for watching.
I agree, good video, only suggestion to improve that I have is to clean the turbo before the video to make all the different parts easier to identify, thank you.
agree
Hello, I am writing from Turkey. I have a 98 model Volvo v70 T5 turbo. It is 4 x 4. How does the turbo vestek work principle of this car? Where does the turbo control valve get the command from and how does it open the signal? There is no turbo pressure sensor in this car. How does it detect it and open the turbo control valve? Thank you.
In the first 15 seconds of this video I can already tell I like this guy. I really appreciate people who are upfront, honest, and helpful. Good on you mate.
Thanks for watching.
Rob I don't care if you have training or not, every time I have a problem with my V70 I always find a video on your channel which explains everything clearly and has helped me a number of times. You have helped me out massively, keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching.
I really like this guy! He is very informative and has a lot of great information. Thank you Robert!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the education. About to pull my first turbo, and replace some seals and such. Your videos have been helpful for a few years now.
Cool, thanks for watching.
Thank you Robert! Your video was clear, concise & to-the-point. I no longer have the anxiety of being a Turbo-charged, vehicle-owner. I only wish that most You Tube videos were so easily understandable. Keep up the good work on being a good Teacher & I'll keep watching.
ruclips.net/video/LcR5Fy8uYCk/видео.html
This is one of the most in-depth, helpful videos I've seen. Thank you my friend.
You are welcome.
Rob I am truly impressed about you clear delivery. Your hands on way of teaching is better than any schematic animation by far. I could feel the smell of oil too while watching your video. Cheers Istvan
Thanks for the kind words.
this video is an excellent one with clear concise explanations .
way to go
+Paul Costello Thanks for watching.
Robert DIY Hey Robert do you know much about aftermarket turbos and upgrading them? I'm putting on a bigger turbo and could really use some advice. Are you familiar with bigger turbos than stock and the mods that go along with it? just had a few questions for my build. thanks, subbed......
Chris Watson don't run a bigger turbo on stock internals
Thank you! I have a 1.8t Passat with a lot of miles, original turbo. I was thinking of replacing the turbo, but after an inspection based on your video I'm confident I can leave it alone for a quite a while-no shaft play, spins freely, no leaks. Cheers!
You are welcome.
Thanks for all the GREAT information. Really appreciate the depth and care you take to explain everything.
Keep it up!
Good video...Robert clarified for me how a turbo works and what can go wrong with it. In his patient easy going way of explaining the mechanics of this device, I learned a few important things about the turbo
+Frank Gonzales thanks for watching.
"Smoke screen like a James Bond movie" LOL! Love your videos Robert, thank you.
+MrPoopnuts thank you for watching.
pretty sure combat tanks dump diesel into the exhaust to create a smoke screen. in other words. vovlo = swedish tank
OMG! "mRpOOPNUTS"....LMAO- I CAN'T STOP laughing!
Hope it was not a washing day
Great vid, Robert! I know nothing about cars - except that mine are always a big expensive headache, but your presentation is so understandable and actually enjoyable. I'm only here because I had my 2003 A4, 1.8 turbo in the shop today with a CE light on, less power, or not as good a pickup as I've been used to - (but not as bad as I'd expect based on what I've been reading about turbo issues, and no smoking exhaust), and a really rough idle. They cleaned about a gallon of chipmunk debris from my air filter box, cleaned the MAF sensor. Now there are 8 codes: P0300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 171,172, and 299. The mechanic said the one indicating a problem with the turbo is most likely the cause of the others. He did a visual check of hoses and wires and said everything looked fine, and would probably do a smoke test next. He also mentioned that "they" don't do much turbo work, and he spent a bunch of time on the computer, which made me nervous. So, I'll be calling someone else tomorrow (friend of my neighbors) who's apparently an audi expert for a 2nd opinion, or legitimate diagnosis. I just figured I'd see what you had to say, since you're so good at replying to folks. Thanks for the invaluable service you provide.
+Dave Ostrowski sounds like a bad air sensor, MAP or MAF. Could also have a hole in one of the turbo tubes since critters got in the air box.
We must always Lubricate our Shafts! No excuses!
Yes, for the "in and out shaft play"
"in and out shaft play" just sounds dirty!
impactajuvenile bro you 100% right🤔
lol hahagh
Robert, Thank you. I wish this video would have popped up in my "2003 Volvo S40 Smoking at idle" I've spent hours looking at possible problems. Ended up buying a compression tester to see if the rings, gasket or valves were bad. This is something I can fix. If it was rings, I was looking to donate car to trade school. After watching your video, I'm positive my smoking issue is the turbo. I hope a repair kit is available. Thanks again. Mark
You are welcome.
Very helpful. My turbo seals probably just went cuz I have a stream of smoke coming out now
+miles aquino Ouch!
miles aquino
Does steam of smoke come only when you press the accelerator? Or at idle? Or both!
Hi, I liked your video for its clear explanation and easy to understand.
I have an Audi A6 3.0TDI Diesel Turbo, model 2005 that I am having problems with the turbo at certain times as follows:
1. Starting from cold the engine performs beautifully with lots of power for as long as the trip takes.
2. When starting from hot engine, the car may perform well until stopping at the first intersection or traffic lights, from then on it loses power. When in this mode, if I try to push hard, the glow plug light comes on and starts flashing. Pushing harder the computer / engine light comes on.
3. When in this mode (that is when the glow plug light is flashing), If I stop the car and turn the engine off for around 2 minutes, and then switch the engine back on it will drive normally with full power.
My personal view is that the turbo sensors could be playing up. However, my local Audi Service Centre have advised that the turbo needs replacement.
Thank you in advance for any advise you may have.
Bill Jabro from Australia
+William Jabro Doesn't sound like a turbo problem, more like a sensor issue. Have they read the codes?
+Robert DIY Thank you Robert for your quick response. It would seem they have read the codes. In their report they said "Checked and found fault codes on the turbo and the flap motor. Ran test plan and found turbo to be defective and the car requires a new turbo".
My concern is, if the turbo is defective, why is it working properly at certain times? It could well be that it is getting the wrong signal from a sensor.
I personally thought it could be a sensor issue. Prior to taking the car to Audi, a specialist local mobile mechanic pointed out that the turbo has 2 sensors and either one could be causing the problem. He was not in a position to do it then. I will contact him to arrange repairs.
Thank you again Robert.
You may want to get another opinion.
+Robert DIY Thank you Robert, I will do that.
This video was very helpful and simple to understand. I like it, it help me understand about an issue with my audi A4. Now all is clear and I have a better peace of mind,
azpn1976 Good deal. Thanks for watching.
probably the best intro i have seen sir. hats off thanks for the informative video!
Wow, thanks!
This was damn perfectly explained.
Well done mate. I really liked this video
Thanks for watching.
Excellent video. You explained it well enough for me to know that my turbo is dead. Saved me a lot of time and headache.
+Michael Tran ouch! Thanks for watching.
Question.. My Audi Turbo got 140K miles and my check engine goes on and then turns off randomly. She shop said it's the turbo, however tho it doesn't seem to have any of these symptoms and runs very well. Should I be worried or they're just ripping me off asking 2 grand for stock turbo?
Blackjack 335 Rip off. Just wait till the problem surfaces. They should be able to see the problem in the PENDING CODES. Stop by a parts store and see what their code reader reports.
@@RobertDIY my turbo caused heavy smoking thought it was injectors faulty at first.now I want to know could it cause blow by because found lots of oil in the induction pipe. Recently rebuilt block and head never changed the turbo.
Love your vdeos. So very well explained and spoken. Im a bit ADD with a very low tolerance for long winded speaches. You are direct to the point . Ive skipped over several vides. Yours are the only ones I watch. Great teacher, not everyone has that capability. Thank You!
Thanks for the kind words and for watching.
brilliant good work to the point many thanks :)
Thanks for watching.
Excellent content answered my questions. Thank you for the clear audio and not shaking the camera all over
+Mike Williams lol you are welcome
Great explanation video! Subbed!!
+Kody Slusher Thanks for watching.
Loving your video Robert. My son's first car was a Volvo 240.The reward of a well maintained car is safety, financial security (less $$$ repairs) and confidence in ownership.Your faithful public should know the manufacturer's maintenance schedule for their model is the "good book" to auto owners. Never stray from it and you will have many years of driving pleasure. I can't wait to get home and watch your video with audio.I would like to also add, if a mechanic suggests an expensive repair they should show proof of the diagnostic code and proof of the part and replacement part after completion of repair.
I am considering adopting a v40 wagon 1.9T 2003. It has Turbo. The issue is it won't idle well and cuts off quickly. I do not have a lot of knowledge of the 1.9T. I believe it is more likely a pcv valve and neglected EMR in need of desperate cleaning. When should I be concerned about Turbo? It has had a good deal of auto maintenance, the owner is in despair and does not want to invest any more $. His loss may be my gain.
I also see a lot of guessing by other owners as well as mechanics. Take your car to a vocational ASE school and have them code it for you. It will save you a lot of head ache and be educational for the supervised student. Also coding is not difficult to learn and many diagnostics can be purchased for your year and make on ebay or at a local pawn for a reasonable $.
It has been my experience, many ASE mechanics are bullies to the fixed income folks and make up for dominate personalities when they lack continued education and do not get immediate profit.The internet allows us to witness this first hand in writing.Also search the repair for your make and model online. They will give estimates and local shop comparisons in your area. If you are not savvy with a computer, have a librarian assist you at your local library.May peace, love, hope, and joy be yours!
+Mary Esther Austin thank you and thanks for sharing.
Smashing tutorial robert :D, there are allways bits to learn.
I did have to laugh though, when you were talking about the exhaust impella you called it a "turban" and thats a wrapped material head covering on an indian/pakistani/sikhs/other gentleman, i could not get rid of the image of his turban spinning on his head, sorry but it was so funny :D
I know you ment "turbine" but i have a silly sense of humor lol :D
zx8401ztv LOL, yikes! You listen to closely.
Robert DIY
No, if im going to watch your video, then i do listen, sometimes twice over as some things fly over my head and need a second bite of the pizza to digest the goodness within... ha ha yep im being silly :D
zx8401ztv He didn't say it wrong, it's his accent. He calls hills "heels," too. Not wrong, just one of the many wonderful ways of speaking English.
BTW video was very helpful! For a little while I was getting a weird chugging around 2000rpm and around 3000rpm, especially going up hills around 100+kmh. I was worried my turbo was starting to go. I don't know what happened (drive an '04 XC70), but it doesn't do it anymore and works like it's supposed to.
CptSchmidt Robert knows im just a daft person, my hearing is not very good and with constant loud tinitus i sometimes have problems, im not being nasty to him in any way :-)
zx8401ztv ok cool :P My dad used to have tinnitus and said it's awful. Sometimes I wonder if I have it. Usually when it's quiet especially at night I get a ringing in my ears. Usually I don't even notice it, but if I think about it I can hear it. Hopefully it stays that way because it seems like it could be a lot lot worse :)
Literally the best video I have ever seen! This dude is literally a genius and I have never scene someone explain a car part better. He literally explains every little detail and it's actually amazing to listen to even though I don't like cars.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching.
Robert DIY no problem dude. I'm about to do my wheel bearing here today but I also into a dress some kind of exhaust problem I think. When I accelerate hard the car gets really sluggish and we'll make a popping sound almost like backfiring. From what I understand I think it might be the catalytic converter. I have a 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser 2.4 l Turbo. Any ideas?
Does it have any codes?
When they hook it up it says code reader but the check engine light is on and when you sit in idle for too long it flashes
deffo knows his stuff and more importantly how to explain it to someone who doesnt (me) but is interested in learning more. thanks
You are welcome
Surprised you didn't get a ticket from blowing all that smoke throughout the neighborhood testing that Volvo (4:35). Well done video. You have explained to me why my '89 Dodge Spirit Turbo is smoking up the neighborhood and has lost some power. I bore scoped the cylinders, tested compression, inspected the intake system for oil; all good. Didn't know where to look next. Much appreciate this video!
LOL Thanks for watching.
Great video. When I watched this the first time last year, I was convinced to get rid of my 96 V70 with 200k miles. I had a bad oil seal which showed up when I plugged a hole in the PTC nipple. Symptoms occurred initially when I would let off the throttle after accelerating up a hill. Progressively got worse to the point like the video. Not the only reason I sold, minor warped head (water getting into cylinder) and transmission issues (most likely PNP switch). Volvos are wonderful cars but stay away over 150k miles unless you are a good mechanic with a lot of tools and time.
Very true.
Hi rob, thanks for your help, I had a smoke test on the car today & you were right there was a leak, it was from a gasket, when the metals expanded under heat the gap closed,thanks again. Terry.
+Terry Sim thanks for sharing.
You know you stuff and teach it really well! Great real world examples of a working, worn or totally frozen up turbo.
Thanks for watching.
My 2018 Civic EXT, 1.5 liter, turbo, GDI, CVT:
I NEVER redline.
I rarely exceed 4k RPM
I rarely drive short distances
I never exceed 2.5k RPM until the oil reaches optimal temperature.
I ALWAYS change the oil/filter early (approx. every 4,200 miles) with Honda 0W-20 synthetic and OEM filter.
When I complete my drive, I wait at least a minute on idle before turning off.
I only use top tier fuel (93 Octane with the highest detergent).
After over four years and 126,900 trouble-free miles I’m happy with my Civic. I’m hoping to get at least 300k miles without repairing my engine, turbo, or CVT. 🙏
awesome! I beat the crap out of mine.
Thanks Robert. that was an extremely informative video. Volvo S80 is in the shop right now for a turbo. I've never done one but at least I'm much more up to speed thanks to you.
you are welcome.
thank you for this fantastic video :) i'm replacing my turbo for my Audi A4 tomorrow! What happend was that the oil pressure went away due to me accidently damaging my oil pan wich i replaced with a new one :) So the problem that my turbo got was that it didn't help my car boosting up! Wish me luck (y)
Take your time, it will be fine.
Thanks Robert. Brilliant Video. It helped me alot. After watching this video it saved me a serious amount of cash. I was at the point of refurbing the entire Engine on my Peugeot 207 cc 1.6 THP 115kw, only to find that the car was smoking due to a damaged shaft rather than a denotated Piston and Oil Rings.
You are welcome.
I came across your video while trying to help my cac figure out what was going on with our 2002 volvo 2.4t v70.
Bam there you were with a car that looked just like ours pouring smoke out the back. At first my dad also thought it was the head gasket but it looks just like your video. Thanks for making the vid...Will let ya know how ours turns out.
Cool, thanks for watching.
Satisfactory, simple and easy to understand explanation. Now I learn the importance of turbo.
Thanks for watching.
I just found your video Robert..... yesterday I took my Volvo S40 2004 LSE to the garage because 2 days ago I the check engine light came on, and also realized that I was missing "power", they tooked the car for a spin and they said it was the Turbo that it was completly "gone", so I got very frustrated because I knew that would be expensive around $900 bucks for a used one including instalation...., but I called the original dealer in order to just double check if that was the real problem, they asked me to better bring the car and do an scanner and a test drive so I did a few hrs later, effectively the engineer told me the same that it was some trouble with the turbo but he doubt that it was the Turbo it self!, because they also mentioned the smoking symptoms that I did not have on my car, so they looked ath the back in the hood and realized that the "ROD PIN" that open the wastegate was loose, so they just pulled back on original position and fixed with some clips... mins after they checked the oil was good, we tooked another road test and instantlly we feel the diference on the boost!!!
It was an 1hr labor no pieces and only "ended up very cheap at the end" lucky me! - I just have a question Robert
How can I realize if my Volvo is boosting good rpm? Thnks!
Hoekstrá Dan Install a boost gauge. - ruclips.net/video/Y_J38rSztVw/видео.html - ruclips.net/video/KZKCnmBoC-I/видео.html
+Robert DIY Thnks Robert I will take a look on them, once I get it I hope I can install it.... lol
I have a 2005 VOLVO s60 2.5T it has total reduced engine power and it is making a kinda whirring noise between shifting any thoughts please and thanks a bunch !
ruclips.net/video/cWKOi8D4SWQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/NhtUXZTurzo/видео.html
Outstanding presentation in every context! I have been joyfully enlightened! Thank you Professor Robert!
+the1realanalogman thanks for watching.
Great Video! I have a 2004 Xc70. With no boost pressure. I checked if it spins and all good there, waste gate can move. Don't now what else to look for? A friend gauged it at 1psi. Car runs great, no smoke
Lawrence Oliver Likely some under lying code dialing back the boost. Unless there is a boost leak somewhere.
Great job Robert! You have a subscriber. Thanks for not playing music over everything 😃
You are welcome
Hi thanks for your informative video.
I have a M57n2 engine with a garret gt22 turbo and i also asked some mechanics here who atomaticaly told me thats the turbo but i am not really sure.
- there is a whining noise although the turbo has only 40k km it an original one not rebuilt and had also oilpipe replaced back then....
- ther is no smoke coming out like in the video
- no shaft play at all and it spins very smoothly
- ther is a little bit of oil on the air intake side of the turbo that was also dripping underneath it
- there is no significant engine oil usage
- i took off the particle filter the air intake pipe and also the pipe that goes to the intercooler but there is still that whining noise at 1500-2200 rpm
- the turbine blade are in perfect shape and look like new
- car is as fast and has same acceleration time from 60-160km/h like before the whining noise began
- oil is new aral supertronic 0w40
- engine breather (i hope that is called like that) is also new
- new air filter
- new diesel filter
- removed swirl flaps
- new thermostate
- new water pump
here are some photos and a sound file of the whining noise
drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFx5nbIvyFtVDQ1OExiY04tM3c
drive.google.com/open?id=0BxFx5nbIvyFtOTFfWVBrdmJNME0
what do you think do I need to replace that turbo? thanks
I have not looked at photos or listened to the sound file, to risky for me. He's the deal from my point of view... If you take care of the turbo, it can last a long time. I'm not sure if your turbo is factor new or some modified unbalanced unit. If there is oil leaking into the intercooler, I'd be a little concerned. Other than that, if it is still boosting good, I wouldn't worry about a little noise.
Are you using full synthetic engine oil? Are you running more boost than it is designed to run?
Man, I don't know how your car runs with the turbo intake off. It actually sounds like an alternator whine to me. Pull the belt off of the alternator and see if it stops.
Hey man I just wanna say I never had a instructional video so on point with explaining. Thx Man U would be a awesome instructor for a Audi school
Thanks for the kind words.
Robert, you have great videos. You're very good at presentation, very articulate and charismatic. Thank you.
+Al Uziel Thank you for watching.
I havent found any information on this anywhere else, but my turbo makes a chirp/click ever since last night, the intensity and speed is directly correlated to boost pressure, and then I have a putting sound, like a beatered Volkswagen almost. It's super loud. I also have found fresh oil spots under my car, from the diver side behind the block, probably from the turbo. Will check for play or signs of seizing but the loud putting and clicking aren't mentioned so if you have any ideas about what that could be, let me know. Thanks for the vids, I would be soooooo lost on this car without your channel! I check here first, as a rule.
+Joel Dougherty probably an exhaust leak.
Great video and explanation. I have a VW Caddy and it doesn’t blow smoke at idle but it blows allot of white/greyish smoke (like your James Bond moment in the video) whilst driving or under load. In your video i noticed the smoke was constantly blowing even at idle. So my question is does it matter whether or not you have smoke at idle or not at idle,
It'll get worse.
This video is so informative as the turbo in my car went into limp mode so garage claimed turbo faulty no symptoms as mentioned here do now know what to check for first Thank you amazing video
+Richard Patel you are welcome.
Thanx Robert for the overview of a bad turbo.
+Colin Aglae you are welcome
You explain the function of a turbo better then my mechanic ....Thanks
You are welcome.
That was absolutely awesome and so very clear dude you are awesome you save me from selling my Volvo XC90 after a coolant leak cause the engine to overheat we did not lose the engine but it is clear now that the turbo suffered so grateful thank you
You are welcome.
Mr.Robert, EXCELLENT video sir.. very informative.... I will subscribe as I am working or repairing a turbo unit on my 2008 Subaru WRX Impezza.... I am opting( if no housing damage to rebuild it using a rebuild kit). Your attention to detail in your explanations of turbo functionality and possible causes for failure and what to look for are exemplary sir.
+Michael Moran thanks for watching.
great vid man thanks for taking the time to make it and help the rest of us and it looks like the guy who had removed that bad turbo came by and gave your vid a thumbs down.
+Jose Gonzalez LOL, thanks for watching.
+Robert DIY How long after changing turbo should your car stop smoking?
Within 50 miles. If you drove it a lot when it was loosing oil down the exhaust, there may be a lot of oil in the cat, which will have to burn off.
+Robert DIY thanks I appreciate it the responso I just changed it today and was still smoking. not like before though
thank you very much for the information. Problem - 1998 Supra, Precision 6766 Turbo, tons of white smoke after 5, 10 mins of driving, never ran hot, no oil leak in driveway but the tailpipe is caked with oil on the inside, oil on 3 of the spark plugs, minimal or no loss of power, no stalling, no overheating, the engine compression & variation is acceptable, 70,000 miles on the Precision turbo, not a racer, daily driver . Does this sound like worn seals or what ? If so, how much to replace worn seals and what shop in Miami or Florida is recommended ? Drag International, Titan ? Thanks anyone and thank you Robert DIY for the very nice explanation of the workings of a turbo, great video, thanks alot.
have you checked the turbo for play?
@@RobertDIY yeah I'm trying to get my neighbor to take my turbo off so I can check the things that you mentioned, I don't have the tools to remove it. You made an excellent video with no bells and whistles just usable information great job thanks
You don't have to remove the turbo to check it for play, just the inlet pipe.
Robert DIY. Okay my blades are chewed up horribly, where do all those chewed up bits go? So now is this something that can be repaired with a new turbine, lmpella shaft drive or whatever you call it or do I need a new turbo and what about the oil line feed ?
So I have a precision 6766 I'm thinking with replacing it with either another precision 6776 dash 6062 or 6266 , any thoughts. Thank you so much
Rebuild, A1 Turbo in LA CA.
Love the video! I have a noise that sounds like the turbo compresser wheel in my Audi A4 has damadge. When i hit about 1.5k rpm it sounds like an animal being tortured.
Does that animal smoke
Absolute top class explanation and great voice to listen to, THUMBS UP!
Thanks for watching.
Hi robert, I saw in this video that there was extreme amount of smoke under boost.
However, I’m getting clouds of white smoke ONLY after idling for exactly 2 minutes.
Never happens under the following; under boost, decel or decel down hills or in the mornings after sitting. It also only happens in ‘N’ or ‘P’ and goes away when I put it back in ‘D’ and drive off.
The turbo is kinda new (just under a year), and the car is an Audi A4 2.0T 2013 TFSI
(Note: I did have a blockage in the exhaust, cat broke down and wedges inside) that may have caused premature failure of internals?
But at this stage, I’m reading mixed information online, but seems to be consistent either between “turbo hot seal” or “exhaust valve stem seal”
And another possibility is that I may have noticed this after installing a catchcan that bypasses (uses the existing and not deleting) the OEM PCV
What’s your thoughts? Any quick tests that can be done before I try remove the expensive catch can, reverting back to stock to see if it improves the vacuuum?
Valve stem seals or PCV. Check to make sure the PCV doesn't have any loose or kinked hose.
Suction control valve fault will also make smoke from the exhaust. Good video.
Thanks for watching
Very informative video! Excellent work!
My car (Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4) smokes only on deceleration (vacuum) and only after going into boost... I have recently rebuilt the turbos and I have also replaced the heads with newly rebuilt ones. I also replaced the PCV valve with a brand new OEM one. What would be causing the smoking? Thank you!
Something is probably loose.
whooooah! Incredible amount of smoke there...your videos are awesome, Robert.
Glad you like them!
Great Video Robert. You are a wonderful teacher, now i understand a little more, Cheers, Pretoria. South Africa. SAAB 900NG SE Turbo 1996
Sweet! Saab 900.
My Rocket Ship !!!!!! LOL, Thanks for the reply across the ocean !!
Thank you got your informative video.I am going to be changing the turbo in my 2001 Audi A4 this next weekend.I bought an oem turbo and install kit .I also bought a new intake manifold so I can mount everything new to it .Do you have a step by step process to replace a turbo in that car.Thank you sir for your time.
ruclips.net/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/видео.html
Thanks for this info. My Saab only has 4-5 psi, no smoke. 218k, hear tinkling noise when getting into boost. I need a new turbo.
That or have it rebuilt.
Good video and well explained.
looking for previous comments just have a question for the "certified mechanics" why you guys don't make videos like this if all you can do is say that you guys know better??
well I digress great video and well detailed made me a bit less ignorant thank you so much
You are welcome.
Hi Robert,
I own a Lincoln MKT, that I purchased about seven months ago. It drive fine until a few months ago. My wife noticed that the engine light came on so had her take it to AutoZone and have the codes read. Came back as oxygen sensors, so I replaced those. Unfortunately, as soon as that was done, started it up, went for a drive and immediately noticed thick white smoke from the tail pipe (which it was not doing prior). Took it to the mechanic and was told it was the engine, and to replace would be $4k. Had the car taken to the Lincoln dealership (where I purchased the car from), and was told that my water pump blew, which caused both turbos to blow, and repairs would be $5k. I have since replaced the water pump myself ( using the factory service manual), and am on to the turbos. However, before I start I was wondering if I would have to actually replace the turbos simply because the water pump blew?
+tcummingssr have you tried to drive it?
Robert DIY, we have driven it and the acceleration was slow on pickup, didn't have the boost that it had before. I'm in the process as we speak, putting back together the front engine cover, intake manifold, valve covers, etc. I have thought about replacing the fluids once I'm done and taking it out again to see if the new water pump solved the problem. I just can't wrap my brain around the fact that the turbos blew just that fast from the water pump going out. Just figured that maybe by some chance the white smoke was coming from the bad water pump, which caused the lack of acceleration. Oil was fine, and coolant was fine once I drained them ( not mixed together).
+tcummingssr is the check engine light on? Usually, when the water pump fails it blows the head gaskets. If that happens it can cause fluids to mix. If it is driven much after fluids mix it can damage the turbos.
If the head gaskets are blown it will usually cause a misfire. Loss of power, etc. You can physically check the turbos, but if they are bad they are usually noisy, leak oil, and cause smoke to come out of the tail pipe when you accelerate.
Robert DIY Robert DIY. Thanks for the reply. No the check engine light was not on. None of the fluids were mixed, when I drained the oil and coolant, so I'm confident that the heads aren't blown. (No misfires at all). Just as simple as replacing the O2 sensors, and immediately after that white smoke from tail pipe. Dealership didn't mention a problem with the heads just a blown water pump which caused the turbos to blow from loss of coolant, so I'm wondering if the turbos may still be in good shape just misdiagnosed (went to dealership the very next day after O2 sensor replacement). I did plan on checking them off vehicle once I get them removed to determine that
Good video. So turbos are cooled via oil AND coolant? Didn't know that. Thought it was just oil. But I guess that would explain the smoke. Generally when coolant is being burned, it produces a thick, white smoke. When oil is being burned, it's a light blue smoke.
+Danny Duke thanks for watching.
I would like to see a complete disassembly, and rebuild. Have you ever done that?
Yes
One clever dude. this video helped me tremendously because the dealership ripped me off $3k
Ouch!
Thanks for the video, Robert. What about overboost conditions? Or with leaking from the oil seals? Would this result in a seize?
Yep
I have a 2013 ford escape with ecoboost 2.0. And i have a bad grind sound where the turbo is. Also have a code that has to deal with the turbo. Have you heard a turbo grind really bad for any reason? Turbo drives well and still feel it pull when boost kicks in. Just has a very loud grinding sound. Maybe one of the blades got bent and rubs while it spins??
Awesome video very well done! !!
Grinding sound is probably something else. If a blade gets bent or something, it will not rub the housing. Turbo's spin so fast that wouldn't last a few seconds.
Have you seen many turbos fail and dump coolant into the exhaust. I have a 02 xc70 and it is loosing a lot of coolant through the exhaust but the compression is great on all cylinders.
No. Do a leak down test. Probably a blown head gasket. Have you been playing coolant roulette?
Robert DIY I had a feeling you would say that. I have done probably a half dozen head gaskets on these cars and this one seemed different. But yeah I will do a leak down and see what that tells me. Thanks for all the videos I thought I knew Volvos then I saw your videos it's awesome.
Great video..One of the best on RUclips..Thanks
You are welcome.
Good video my brother, i have a 2005 Kia Sorento 2.5 diesel can you give me some pointers on DIY servicing?
ruclips.net/video/tVYUe_atbWs/видео.html
I have watched a few of your videos. Very informative and well explained. Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
You are welcome
My gti burns substantial oil and it only smokes once a day, or basically if I wrap out first through fourth, but when I just normally drive it and take it easy I have no issue with smoke
Not that you can see from the drivers seat. lol
Great video! I'm actually renovating the engine on my Saab 9-5 Aero including the worn turbo (the car also got a TD04 turbo, but the high pressure variant) so this video was helpful. Greetings from Sweden
Congrats.
Either my tablet doesn't see them or you forgot to put the links in. As always excellent video. Thanks!
Steven Jorgensen I probably failed to include the links.
Robert, you're the man... Thanks Buddy! (I'm driving a smoker; now I understand) Cheers to the freedom of information my friend!
You are welcome.
One question: can a turbo go bad, but no smoke, no shaft play, but no spooling up? have a saab 9-3 2000 2.0l Garrett TB25, have fitted helper spring to wategate, and when unplug wastegate pipe, no unregulated boost.
Hi Robert
I have a Hyundai I 30 1.6 diesel
And the turbo just start to make some noise,no smoke just the noise
Is this a point where is gone breakdown ?
Thank you
Good job with the video
I guess it's the beginning of the end.
When the turbo lacks oil or actuator fails it causes bearing to a near melt down which releases small partials it's not screws that just happen to get into the turbo if you try to drive a vehicle with a failed turbo yes it will be slow the reason for this the compression can't escape and of consequence that puts internal pressure on all internal gaskets and seals get it fixed straight away or do not keep using the vehicle you are making a bigger bill for ones self
Interesting.
Hello Robert, thank you for the videos you make, they have been most helpful.
If you have time would you please give me your opinion. I have a 02 Volvo C70 2.4l with 124,000 miles. It recently started leaking oil and got worse. The camshaft seal was popped out a little. I pushed it back in with a screw driver and it seemed to hold. I drove it for about 40 minutes and was returning home when I lost power and the car would not go any further. I started it again after several minutes of letting it set, it has a horrible knock and it sounded like a dry bearing. Does this sound like the turbo or my engine?
How is the oil level? Can't hear the noise from here. 🤔
thanks mate , very insightful, can you tell me , the waste gate actuator -how easily should that move? when on car , engine turned off should it be slack and easy to move or stiff but moveable with effort , thanks in advance.
Stiff and moveable.
Thanks very much Robert, seems mines working ok then and my fault could be variable vanes sticking intermittently. Your video has been a very good tutorial for me , thank you.
Robert DIY, yeah so the blades are all chewed up, where do those bits ago is that going to complicate my life now what do I have to check for regarding that ? And if I get another precision turbo is it a simple as just putting the new one on getting it tuned and going about my life ?
ruclips.net/video/uKzoFbJGKXk/видео.html
I have one more day to pull parts off my parts car - 16T from a 98 T5... the turbo has about 1-2 mm of axial (back and fourth between hot and cool side) play with audiable noise when moved back and fourth, but no radial play... worth pulling off, perhaps to sell? It's gonna rain from now until the end of the weekend so it's gotta be worth at least $130 or so.
Sounds like it's wore out.
Another way a turbo can fail is the output side shaft breaks and bits go through the intercooler and into the head. This happened to me a week ago in a VW T5 Transporter. They have taken the head off for inspection and have sent it to get shaved. With gasket kit, oil, oil filter, turbo, radiator flush, coolant, labour, all up over $5000. The worst part is the timing being over the holiday period means things take longer and I'm 1000km's from home and still waiting to get moving again.
The turbo had a faint whistle which a mechanic suggested it meant it was on the way out, I thought I'll be gentle with it and all will be good. Unfortunately the week before my trip I think that whistle got a little louder, but everyone would have been booked out then, 1 week before Christmas.
This video is good but doesn't emphasise how bad it can go wrong. My repair bill is huge and the damage to the motor at this stage looks minimal, it could have been worse.
Edit: They have allowed 16hrs labour and the turbo itself is $1700 because the VW turbo and manifold are one unit. These are Australian prices and I'm in a small town with most parts coming from outside.
Sounds a little like overkill to me. I know of people that had turbos explode and they didn't have to have 1/2 of that stuff done to the vehicle. If you look at a video or something that shows the flow of the air flow that is pressurized by the compressor wheel you'll see that it is near impossible for the bits from the compressor wheel to make it into the cylinder head.
The intercooler is like a coolant radiator and the air flows over the fins within it. The metal bits would have to make it pass a lot of air passages and I simply don't see that happening. How did they determine that pieces of the turbo compressor wheel made it to the cylinder head?
Besides that, if they pull the cylinder head of correctly, it likely would not need to be machined and made true, about 1/2 the time they are flat when I pull them. Some do it all the time to be "safe" and I guess that's ok but I still can't imagine bits making it that far.
ruclips.net/video/Yd9N2yMO5KY/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/zenMEj0cAC4/видео.html
Robert DIY
These guys are in the category of machining any head they remove, plus the guy who machines it checks if it has gone soft.
One of the guys said he heard a rattle, then switched it off and back on and the rattle left. They said the only way they would be 100% was to remove the head. They said there were some minor scratches indicating something had bounced around in there.
I drove it a couple of times only 1/2 a k or so when it first happened and at one stage I heard what sounded like crap going through the exhaust.
They're replacing all gaskets to do with the head, then there's some testing to be done at the end of it all. I'm a bit shocked at the price too, but it does seem like they are just doing a totally thorough job. At one stage he mentioned doing the timing belt while it's all part, but that's been done already.
The 50 + yr old guy doing the work sounded like he knows his stuff and said the only way to be 100% sure was to remove the head and check the valves and so forth. With the VW turbo being so expensive and the intercooler having to come out and emptied of debris there probably wouldn't have been any change from $2500 without taking the head off.
Locals told me they aren't cheap as well, as it's a small town with few options, but no one bagged the quality of their work.
ruclips.net/video/DqWKNuTppmU/видео.html
Hi Robert, great videos. I am a fan. My question, I have a Volvo S80 T6 2003, twin turbo. No boost at all, recent overhall done, TCV valve came clicking while applying 12 volts on a testing procedure so I am guessing here it is ok. Vac lines tighten (makes a big difference when no pressure leaks), and son on. Although I have my wastegates disconnected, unhooked from the manifold small lever, as this is the only way I can get rid off a high pitch sound when pressing the gas. Once disconnected no sound at all and cars works well, but no boost. What I need to know dealing with the waste gates as I assume that is what my problem is, if the waste gates levers are supposed to push or to pull, ir order to be calibrated with the manifold levers. Push or pull from zero position. Thank your Robert.
ruclips.net/video/PXR9m-c_FuM/видео.html
Great video -- Thanks! I have a 1999 SAAB 9-3 with 175K miles and a non-working Turbo Charger. (I bought the car with 150K miles and the turbo has never worked.) No smoke, no noise, just no boost. SAABs have a turbo boost gauge the measures boost in an arc divided in three units. In keeping with tach activity, the boost gauge bounces around in the 1st third. (So it looks to me like the turbo is turning.) But even when I redline the engine, the needle will go only a couple of millimeters into the 2nd third and I feel no boost. I've never seen it enter the 3rd third of the gauge and I've never felt any boost. Based on my brief description, does this sound like a bad turbo unit to you or a deeper engine problem? Could this be a simple swap out with a new turbo charger? Thanks again for your great video!
Pull the intake tube and check the inlet of the turbo.
its like white smoke but mine is throwing black smoke and there is no boost in 2 gears i mean no power from the suv , its kia sportage 2001 model, plz help me out if its a turbo problem or something else thanks
You can pull the inlet tube and check it for play.
Nothing that I can see from here.
Hey Robert. Thanx man thats a really a gr8 video.
I have a ? though.
I have a 2.7 toyota minibus (gas ). Am planning to do a conversion to a 3.0 diesel turbo. What can be done about the lag before acceleration.
When starting up on mornings it has dragging and then a potion of white smoke comes out. Any ideas?
+Jomiah Bernard not really. Maybe a vacuum leak somewhere.
I wasn't aware that Volvo used a type of external wastegate flap. Is it like built into the manifold or something? I'm used to k03,k04 vws.
MI Backyard Engineer the waste gate on my car is in the turbo housing flange, the actuator that controls it is external (1995 Volvo 850).
Hey Robert, Great video, I have an 05 S40 T5, that blows out exhaust smoke periodically, sometimes heavy, sometimes light, sometimes not visible, sometimes at cold start up, rarely ever at idle. Car doesn't skip or miss when this happens, runs fine during this smoke issue. I can't find any evidence of a blown head gasket. Do you think its a turbo issue? and have you ever bought a rebuild kit for one of these Volvo turbos, if so how did that go??
Could be a clogged PCV.
Yes, I have rebuilt a turbo, went fine. I prefer to leave it up to the pro's for balancing reasons.
I replaced the the oil trap about 12,000 miles back
Did you do the glove test recently?
They use machines that spew that kind of smoke to kill mosquitos in my country!
In my 2012 S60 T4 with 68,000 Km the turbo is leaking oil. It comes down from the unit to the intercooler pipe and from there to the lower engine cover. It is a droplet but coats all the mechanicals and the pipe.
There is a little blue smoke In the exhaust on a cold-cold start up. I switched from SAE 5W/30 to 5W/40 motor oil. After the oil change the engine feels less free as if the increase in engine oil viscosity increased friction within the engine. The original motor oil viscosity was 5W/20 but the dealer switched immediately to SAE 10W/30 and I went down to 5W/30 upon the purchase of the car as to get as close to the oil specification and viscosity that the owners manual intended an ACEA A5-B5 which I only found with an SAE 5W30. I replace the engine oil and filter every 6 months as I drive the car very little.
What could be the culprit, how much time to total turbo failure?
What does the owners manual recommend for the oil? What climate do you live?
ruclips.net/video/wyF3o3c1uug/видео.html
Due to the design of the PCV system, the early turbo Volvo vehicles ALWAYS have oil droplets on the turbo system. Not sure if the newer ones are the same, possible.
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Hey Boss. can you tell me. what people consider sikk is what we would be concerned about. compressor surge or the kids calls it Fluttering. I see it as premature wear on the unit. a lil blow off valve tuned right can help everything flow in harmony. yeah?
Man, I don't understand what you are trying to communicate.
Very clear explanation of how things work. Thanks!
You are welcome
Quick question for you? Whats important is not to have cracks in the exhaust part off the turbo? I have a 02 golf gti and i have cracks on the exhaust part of the turbo. Any input will be nice
Very common. As long as the cracks are internal I really would not worry about it.