5 Things You Should Never Do In A Turbocharged Vehicle
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- Опубликовано: 19 июл 2016
- 5 Things You Should Never Do In A Turbocharged Car
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1. Do not run the engine hard after start-up.
Most people know you should let your engine warm up before running it hard, but many cars only have coolant gauges. Engine oil tends to take longer to heat up, because you don’t have a thermostat like the coolant does, which isolates the coolant in the engine block and regulates its temperature. Oil that isn’t heated up won’t flow as fast as oil at operating condition, which means you’ll have less protection at engine start up. This is especially true for turbocharged vehicles, because you also have oil feeding the bearings of the turbocharger, which spins at insanely high RPM and produces significant heat, so you want to make sure you have proper oil flow through the turbo.
It will be different for every car, but it could be an additional several minutes before your oil temperature is near your engine coolant temperature.
2. Don't shut the car off immediately after running it hard.
You’re going to have hot spots where the engine components, and especially the turbocharger, are still significantly hotter than your engine oil temperature. If you shut off the engine, the oil no longer flows, and thus pockets of the oil are going to be heated up to very high temperatures. These high temperatures break down the oil, and also burn up and evaporate the light end of the oil, leaving behind a heavier oil that won’t have ideal flow characteristics. This reduces your engine oil life, and also means you might have less protection at start-up.
3. Don’t lug the engine. Low Engine Speed, High Load Operations. First, this isn’t ideal because you’re telling your engine to move your vehicle quickly when it’s at a huge gearing disadvantage. Second, when your engine tries to produce more power at low engine speeds, it may be able to inject more fuel, but not ingest enough air. As a result, you’ll have a highly rich mixture and this can lead to poor emissions, damaging your catalytic converter, and seeing black smoke come out your exhaust. Third, regarding damaging your engine, this can cause low speed pre-ignition. LSPI is a when you have pre-ignition of your air fuel mixture (before your spark ignites it) and is becoming a more common phenomenon with small turbocharged engines running at low engine speeds with high load. It’s a dangerous condition that can cause engine damage, such as broken spark plugs or cracked pistons, as a result of extremely high pressures which occur due to significantly advanced ignition timing. It’s also very challenging to detect, and can’t be avoided through ignition timing or changing the spark plug’s heat range.
4. Don't use low octane rating fuel, especially if the car has been modified. Turbocharged cars tend to have higher pressures and temperatures within the combustion chamber, which is why they have reduced compression ratios to compensate. If your car is modified, you can keep it reliable by running a rich mixture and using high quality, high octane fuels. Obviously reducing boost and retarding the engine timing will do this as well, but of course you’ll be reducing performance. There are knock sensors to help minimize any engine problems, and so they’ll retard timing if it senses knock will occur.
5. Don’t floor it coming out of a corner.
In this one I just wanted an excuse to talk about slip angles. Turbocharged cars have some varying amount of turbo lag, new ones are much better. My point is this, as you’re coming out of a corner, your tires have some loading on them, whether your car is FWD, RWD, whatever. Now this doesn’t apply to AWD quite as much, but it’s still an issue. Your car’s stability is a result of your front tire slip angles being nearly identical to your rear tires slip angles. So long as this is true, your car moves on its targeted path. If you floor a turbocharged car, especially cars with high amounts of turbo lag, you get slammed with torque fairly surprisingly. This shock of torque increases the demand of the driven tires, increasing their slip angle. If you have a significant increase of slip angle of just one set of tires, front or rear, you end up with understeer for FWD, or oversteer for RWD. All of this is to say that your throttle application exiting the corner is very important, especially in 2WD turbo vehicles, where turbo lag can easily cause an understeer or oversteer situation.
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I always ensure i warm up my engine each morning by dropping a brick on the accelerator and leaving it to warm up for 5mins or so.
And if it gets too warm then you replace the air filter with a 🌭
Clay or concrete brick? Lol
Steel brick
Haha 😂😂😆😆😆😆 funniest comment I've ever read about cars
haha so much for stop start! manufacturers trying to save fuel lol Ps is a brick an optional extra in the brochure ?
Never drive away and forgot your turbocharger on the kitchen table.
Dude, love the profile name. Lol
Asbestos
I did it ine time... Didnt go well
Max Headroom damn, happen to you too man??
@@aliggamer7251 happened to my buddy Eric
I redirected my exhaust back into the intake for double the boost!
Woah
I suggest a secondary exhaust cooler. :-))))
throttle response must be abysmal…
It's Big Brain Time
I redirected my exhaust inside the car so as not to waste any gases 👍🏼👍🏼
police: why were you going so fast?
> EE told me i can't use this car at low-rpm
*I was unable to get into **_'Top Gear'_** under 100 MPH as I have a 7 speed gearbox*
@Elliot Rodger that's the Honda way and im proud to say im part of it 2nd and on is for pussies
I also saving the environment
JUSES CHIRST aren't diesels usually turbochargered as well, and they usually stay at low rpm
Lol
never drive a turbocharged vehicle underwater.
@Jordan Winders 😁😁i
Hey 420 likes _nice_
Mixup 221 421* ;)
The Wedge really, rubbish. I drive mine from Australia to the USA once a year underwater and it works fine
Duh. You have to turn the turbo around backwards first. Dumbass
never put a carrot in your turbo
Unless, of course, you drive a Rabbit.
Never let an Engineer try to tell you how to drive your computer controlled car. They think computers are full of tiny gears and levers...!
Explain
Broken Condom
Loool
quality meme
Let me shed some light on these things, from an actual Engineer that designs these cars...
1. True for any car, let the engine oil warm up before putting a lot of strain on the engine, aka flooring it and revving the engine out.
2. True for Turbo cars, you want the Turbo to cool down to prevent damage to the turbo, in the case that you have been running the car hard and you want to turn the car off immediately. This is only the case when you are track driving the car, or being really hard on the car on the street due to traffic, or just being in a huge hurry.
3. Not true about not "lugging" the engine. Engines are designed to be able to simply step on it while in gear on the highway. Be it a a high gear or low gear. The Fuel that you mention that "injects a ton" into the engine... Not true at all. The fuel is tuned to exactly what is best for the engine given any scenario. Your foot does not control the fuel, the computer does. Out of boost, at full throttle the engine will be sending fuel, per the computer, which would be between 12.5 to 11.5 AFR. Engines respond better, the cooler they are, using the greater amount of fuel of 11.5 AFR, the only reason they would be at 12.5 is to try to save fuel. So, its actually the opposite in this scenario, your engine may be lean, not rich... but again, safe for the engine of course. If you see black smoke out the back, its because the computer saw knock/pre-ignition, due to poor maintenance or poor fuel quality (same thing really), pulled timing, pulled the throttle in the case of electronic throttle, and then dumped a ton of fuel to further protect the engine. This means you need to do your intake valve cleaning maintenance by hand, or drop some cleaner in it. DIY, if you know what you are doing. Doesn't matte how good quality of fuel you think you are using, if it is getting mixed with carbon/oil deposits in the engine, the best high octane fuel (premium 91-93oct) will be reduced to much lower octane, worse than the lowest octane you can ever find.
4. Use the fuel that the car has been designed for, this is for any car. If it's modified, and the engine computer was re-tuned to take only Premium. Use only Premium. If the manufacturer states to use regular, use regular, don't use anything else, you won't hurt the engine, but you aren't doing your wallet or performance any favors. If the manufacturer states you can use both, then the higher octane is better and gives better performance, but regular is ok and you can save money just make sure and do your maintenance. If the manufacturer states to use premium, then use only premium. You could damage the engine if you use less than premium, if not in the short run, then in the long run.
5. Flooring it in a turn, sure, but that's with any car. You need to learn the car, and what its driving characteristics are. This is just being a good driver. Not specifically for a turbo car, or a muscle car, exotic, or a budget car. Any car, and all cars, have their limits.
In summary, for Turbo cars, of the 5 things Jason states to not do to Turbo cars, only Number 2 is specific to turbo cars, and the rest applies to all cars.
Turbo cars: Let the turbo cool down, before turning it off when you have just driven the car really hard. Obviously, a car without a turbo, you don't have to worry about a turbo cooling down, since you don't have one.
All cars: Let the engine warm up before going hard on it, do your maintenance to your car or the engine/transmission/brakes/etc/etc will blow up, use the proper fuel, learn the car gradually before you decide to drive it hard and try to push it to its limits or you'll find yourself in an accident.
Special Note: Maintenance of the intake valves is critical to a turbo car, so stay on top of your intake valve cleaning maintenance, or your engine WILL BLOW UP! Maintenance is important to all cars, but for turbo cars, the engine is extra sensitive to its internal cleaning maintenance. If you don't maintain it, expect reduced performance, and expect to be selling the car very soon with a broken engine that you prefer not to pay for. I've seen this time and time again. I can go into great detail on how and why this occurs, and how modern cars have this issue but older cars do not, but I degress.
I read your comment. I am a beginner DIYer. What do you mean by intake valve maintenance? I have never taken off a valve cover?
Sorry for such a novice question.
@@louarmstrong6128 To clean the intake valves, you don't need to remove intake valve covers. The valves are like upside down lolly-pops, except with the circle facing down not facing you, and the stem going straight up. Under the valve cover you can get to the stem, but not the face of the valve. What you want to clean is the face of the valve [and the back of the face] which is in the air path.
Before we continue on the explanation, you have to also understand that when your valves begin to get dirty, that's when buildup/cleaning is strictly contained [and needed] at the valves. It is rare to catch it this early. BUT, that's what the cleaning is called, intake valve cleaning. What you want to clean, is not just the intake valves, where the buildup begins, but also everything behind the intake valve all the way out the tailpipe of your car. Intake is where the air comes in, and the buildup begins there, then it continues to run and buildup all the way through the system (engine, exhaust manifold, turbo [if you have one], exhaust system, then finally tailpipe). Intake valve cleaning is a misconception, when what is actually needed is the entire system cleaned beginning at the intake valves... but, many people understand and have heard of intake valve cleaning. Also, once everything is clean, you want to maintain the vehicle by keeping up with the cleaning before it builds up, and that is simply cleaning the intake valves at that point. So, clean it all once, then maintain it by just cleaning the valves. The cleaning procedure is all the same.
Now, to continue on how to clean EVERYTHING, not just the intake valves. This is where you will have to study further, or wait till I make a video myself, as it seems that no one has a complete comprehensive how-to on it. But, I'm sure this sounds extremely labor intensive and complicated... So, to get you started, what you want to use a liquid cleaner. Its really not labor intensive or complicated, with a liquid cleaner. Look up how to use seafoam. There are many products that can do the cleaning, but all the comparison tests I've seen on breaking down carbon buildup on valves, shows seafoam to be best. Also, in my experience, seafoam has been the best. Don't use the Walmart knockoff that sits right next to it on the shelf, it's not as good. Seafoam cleaning. Study it.
A few last words of wisdom. The white smoke that comes out your tailpipe when you're doing the cleaning procedure, that's carbon buildup. When it comes out a faint blue, that's the seafoam. Do one cleaning procedure at a time, and as a check, do another cleaning procedure and see if it comes out a faint blue. If no white smoke, just blue, then no more cleaning procedures needed. Each cleaning procedure, requires one bottle of seafoam. I've seen as many as 20 cleaning procedures needed before you get no white, all faint blue. The car gained about 100hp from doing the procedure... and no more knock, and risk of blowing up. Yeah, you could lose about half your hp when its so bad, its about to blow up... or it can blow up sooner, have oil consumption issues, etc etc.
@@copperkeyracing6167 Boy did I ever hit the holy grail of responses ...I appreciate the the time and experience you put into this, I will have to sit down tonight to fully absorb this....awesome and thank you again
@@louarmstrong6128 you're welcome
Valuable feedback yours, thank you; however, point 3 is not straight forward in any of both directions. More to the point, it's not even specific to turbocharged cars - although agree that the mentioned fuel issue is impossible with electronic fuel injection.
Know some of engines where full throttle between 1-1,5k rpm in top gear produces quite unpleasant vibrations, due to (I assume) unfavourable physics (inertia and natural vibration frequencies). Both my father's 2016 Fiesta Ecoboost 125 (turbocharged) and my own 2004 SLK 230 (supercharged) or 2011 Delta 1.6 diesel (turbocharged) suffer from this problem.
Doing the same in my 2010 Panda 1.2 (N/A), 2004 CL 55 (supercharged) or 2001-3 SLK 200 (supercharged) feels - and sounds - totally fine. VW group's 2019-21 1.0 TSI 95 (Polo, Ibiza, Arona) also doesn't "complain" much.
Interesting the difference between the SLKs. Basically, ithey have the same engine, but their character is quite different - the 200 are way smoother than the 230. Read similar reports between Merc's M112 2.6L and 3.2L...
Slightly aburd topic anyway, because for quick acceleration it is obvious that a lower gear should be used.
I usually redline my engine as soon as I start it.
🤦🏽♂️ 🤣
is your head cracked yet?
Lol 😆
Me too. Especially on super cold days. It's great for longevity
gyff jogofl Actually did it yesterday in my Golf, got the AC pressure checked, took longer than I’d realised so I left, pulled up and some traffic lights around the corner, put it into sport and was going to drag race an Octavia (clear road there’s nothing around there). Foot down hit the top end of 1st gear and it made the most awful noise I’ve ever heard from a car.
Fair to say I’ll be more vigilant about temps in future.
When opening your hood to check your oil/filters, be extremely careful not to look directly at your turbo. If you make directly eyeline contact with your turbo it may instantly explode, sending shards of turbo into your face and killing you and possibly your entire family that might be standing behind you.
it’s true this happened to me
@@finn7530 i confirm.. i went to your funeral
I AM DEAD LMFAPO
I’ve been killed five times by doing this - you’d think I would learn from it 😐
Can confirm
The old “dont turn your car off right after running it hard” was a characteristic of 80’s and 90’s turbo cars, hence people installing Turbo Timers. Modern Turbo cars including Subaru’s now continue to circulate oil even after you turn it off. Some cars like Audi’s have electric pumps that continue to run even after you turn them off. That tip is for old school turbo cars.
I can hear the pump working when I turn off the engine in my Golf R. It sounds like a little robot, like a service droid making things okay
dus10r , do you know if parking on a slop( driveway) will damage the turbo due to the oils shifting due to angle of parked car? I move it to flat ground for a few minutes before i start it and let it warm up just to be safe. ('13 Wrx)
Nathan Dorrington slope shouldn’t hurt them, the turbos actually have a small sump that holds the oil in place even when on a slope. And just starting it doesn’t put a lot of stress on the bearing. Turbos are high rpm low torque and they’re balanced really well so there’s not a lot of wear on tear on the bearing. New turbos are WAY better engineered than they used to be.
@@SniperReady you know, I always wondered what that electric motor sounding noise was whenever I turned off my GTI.
Ryan Slattery it’s your droid beep booping your turbo
Oh boy do I love sending significant loads to my rear tires
I love significant loads🌭👅
@@ratface1399 gaaaaaaay
Next he’ll be telling me NOT to use my ejector seat while driving through a tunnel 🙄🙄🙄
AngryBirds Andy ejecto seato cuz
Too soon Hector err..junior
Hey you ill take my cutter back .
I did that once, my Mum hasn't been the same since.
Today I learned i could clip my gas cap into the inside of the fuel door.
Wait. You have a gas cap
You have a gas tank?
The car uses gas?
You have a car?
My car doesn't have a cap holder thing
So wait. After listening to why I "shouldn't" floor it coming out of a corner, I swear you've just explained exactly why I *should* floor it!
The down side is we buy more tires well got to spend money to have fun lol and it's worth it to lol
I usually brake into corner, downshift on entry and floor it on the way out. WTCC style ;)
Thank you, I knew it wasn't just me feeling that way!
Thank you, I knew it wasn't just me feeling that way!
Fn. that’s the way to do it 😎
I use bricks to keep my car redlining all the time while i am asleep. Each morning my oil thanks me, but i get embarrassed and douse the engine in ice water because i am scared of relationships.
Even better would be to pour some water into the intake because you don't want the engine to dry out while it's kept warm overnight.
That's interesting you mention low speed pre ignition. When I was in college for autonotive and advamced engine performance, we talked in depth about how there are more and more instances of GDI turbo engines succumbing to "superknock" as we called it. We saw several engines come in with rods and pistons through the side of the block. It seems to happen when people are just driving and tip into the throttle a bit, suddenly the engine locks up. Snapshot of PID data when the check engine light comes on has indicated that these types of engines are perfectly fine and operating at low speed, high load and all of a sudden something happens right after the fuel pressure rises but right before it makes the change from stratified charge to homogenous mode. Tests have been done and the hypothesis is that when you tip into the throttle the fuel pressure goes up, spraying in more fuel, and that fuel hits a hot spot and detonates. I read about tests where pressure transducers have recorded 2500-3000 psi in the combustion chamber before the piston reaches top dead center, shattering the piston.
This is crap, the real 5 things not to do in a Turbo car.
1. Dont eat hamburgers while driving, especially if u give it a hit and turbo lag kicks in hard as youll drop your burger, and make a mess.
2. Concentrate on the road and not on the hot babes that are checking out your car especially when the blow off valve is going off as u might crash into stuff.
3. Dont bone more then two girls at a time in the car as you will get a head ache from your head hitting the roof as its tight in there.
4. Dont practice drifting after 10pm around the Liverpool area cause i live there and need to sleep for work next day. (U know who u are)
5. Dont keep your drugs in the centre console cause thats the first place the pigs check.
These here tips will keep you rollin allot longer and staying out of jail or the cemetery.
Zonlander 😂🤣😀 I’m with you man.
the turbo flutter is not caused by the blow off valve please read up on it before pretending to know anything
@@mosestanjy did he mention turbo flutter?
@@yinzer_412_ point 2
Moses Tan I think he meant blow-off valve whilst having the turbo but not the turbo flutter itself, but I’m confused now as well haha
Love your videos on "Things you should never do..." However after watching them all I am now too scared to even touch my car without it blowing up XD
These comments man 😂 I’m picking up on some strong sarcasm
LoL same
Wow, you're really informative bro. I have an Opel Adam and it's turbo charged. The car rattles when I floor it at a low rev and I never understood why or even that the revs were relevant until now. Thanks for saving me alot of future repairs.
Something I always loved about my 335i monitored oil instead of coolant temp.
this
literally thinking the exact same thing
Bmw result: Coolant overheats instead 😅
Relax ive had 11... love em 👌🏻
My A3 has that love it
ok guys, I´m a car guy and I "care" about my car, but please don´t forget to use your car. That´s what it was made for in the first place... it´s a machine, not your girlfriend ( or boyfriend ) that deserves all the love and care you have to offer
I mean, sure, if you don't want your car living past 100k and you want to replace engines all the time go for it.
Don't tell me how to live my life
Humans disappoint me
Spudonaut Robert every modern car has no problem making it to 100K just change your oil and don’t beat the living hell out of it and you’ll be good
Nice try mechanic, no $500 blinker fluid replacement for you- I know your ways.
Good video. Just thought I'd chime in and FWIW, you mentioned about "pre-ignition" / pre-detonation especially at low RPMs with high load. Pre-ignition can occur for multiple reasons, however, one common area that is usually not looked at right away is vacuum leaks that lean out the A/F ratio. While it's true you can get a little more "giddy-up" on a lean burning engine, the lean can cause ping or pre-detination. What does this have to do with low RPM / high load? High load places more air in the cylinders and at low RPM (retarded ignition) this can "lean-out" the A/F ratio in the cylinder and in turn, may create the the same "lean-burn" condition as a vacuum leak. In short, as you indicated, "Turbo" boost at the appropriate time and RPM.
Thank you for the great explanation.
My BMW 120d had issues when flooring it at low revs under 2000 and it would shut off full power. It gave a drivetrain error and the power got reduced to like 100hp instead of 225. (ECU Remap) I never understood the problem but now I know I have to ease in the throttle.
Thanks engineering explained.
You do a great job!
Nah bruh you downshift thats what he's trying to say it sounds like you have a bigger problem on your hands 😂 i lug my prelude every once and awhile in traffic or whatever and never had any issue like what your explaining lol
I am in my early 50's have been interested in cars for a long time.Thank you for the clear explanations your channel gives. It clears up a lot of myths that develop over time.
PS - sold the car on Monday! This will be the last video of my personal Subaru STI.
Congrats! I hope the new owner takes care of it well.
Any idea what your new car would be?
how pressure of diesel is increased from 1 bar to 2500 bar by Fuel pump in CRDI system?
Oh no u sold it 😩😩😩
your reaction to " 2017 Porsche 911 Carrera video from Motor Trend" ?
#TurboRant
Thanks for the great detailing. I’am learning a lot from all your videos I’ve watched so far.
Have been driving for over 30 years but did not know about lugging the engine. Valuable advice. Thanks!
Think of all the engines you ruined up until this point :)
5:50
OMG I NEVER KNEW THERE WAS A SPOT TO PUT THE GAS CAP WHEN YOURE FILLING UP MY MIND IS BLOWN
John Lemieux L
i filled up my car today for the first time since i bought it and saw the spot for the cap but didnt know how to use it so i didnt bother. it has a tether anyways.
Ha, mine doesn’t come with a gas cap
bunch of dumbasses
Yeah I buy 50 at a time and leave them on petrol pumps so the local boyz can throw them at the police...
Always impressed by your knowledge and your means of explanation. As a teacher, I applaud you my man.
Thanks for the kind words!
half of the things you said are incorrect
+Mr Ornelas
thanks for the chuckle
+Mr Ornelas HA. what points did I make?
+Mr Ornelas HA. what points did I make?
He mentioned using the best gas for turbo engines; also make sure to use "top tier" gas or some other type with high quality cleaning agents in it. Super important for all modern, high output engines
I have a 2002 WRX and this is helpful. My car is in for a timing belt change. And I will definitely follow these advices.
The low rpm and high boost will more than likely only affect drivers of manual vehicles. Automatic vehicles will downshift once you squeeze that gas pedal.
That's true
You would think an automatic would downshift, but I don't trust them to do so when I need it. That's why I seldom ever risk overtaking on two-lane highways when driving automatics. I've missed too many passing windows simply because the cars refused to downshift, even when I floored the pedal, or if it did, it took too long.
sounds like your car having some gearbox sensor issue, you should go and get it checked by experienced workshop and change the sensor. i got mine changed and it downshifts beautifully everafter, something missed for a long time
he was only talking to non wimps I believe
lol automatic Vehicles? why are you here
A lot of the things pointed out in this video only apply to older turbo charged vehicles.
I want to give this comment one millions likes. Way to go giving 30 yr old advice in a new car...
this.
+FLnative dead on, computer controlled cars and he giving 1980 theory
Aside from letting the oil heat up, but that applies to all vehicles
+Rich Smit actually flat fours have the same tq/hp split as a domestic v8. Unless you're modding for torque alone, the two numbers are normally within 10% of each other. 300hp/300tq at the wheels is very common. I don't think that Jetta can do that can it?
E15 in my cruze and it loves it! I average 34mpg vs 31 in 87. I am tuned from BNR and using their modified 87 tune
Hi Jason
Keep up the fantastic work , I really admire your enthusiasm and the way you conduct yourself so professionally!
The quality of your videos and your explanations are so Insightful, i have a learnt a lot from you, thank you!
I have shared this video clip and one other to the Vitara owners group in the UK and hopefully they find it informative too .
Wishing you all the best for 2022 , take care and stay safe , kind regards Neoklis
Unless your car has an auxiliary coolant pump that continues to run coolant to the turbo charger after the car has been shut off to prevent any issues. Thanks VW!
And BMW. And Audi. And Mercedes. And almost any modern turbo car that has a performance turbo.
+Ethan Johnson except for Subaru, because Subaru, you know...
Yeah but Subaru's just use science instead of a pump. Their turbos are oil and water cooled so the coolant will continue to circulate even after shutting off the engine because of thermal siphoning. That's why turbo Subaru's have an extra coolant reservoir above the turbo at a higher point in the coolant system then the radiator.
Yeah I drive an EVO and found after I got out my car one day that it still sounded like it was running. I wasn't particularly driving hard that day either. I don't know the exact conditions that must be met for car to do this as I have only had it happen maybe 3 times over the year but it will keep running until it cools down. I usually do sit in my driveway with it running after I get home too so thought it was strange first time it happened.
That doesn't mean you should just shut off your engine after running it hard. Even in engines without a turbocharger, it's wise to let things cool down for a little bit and let temperatures even out, let parts seat evenly, etc. as they cool.
"We got some big sticks in the road." Had me laughing. I love that you find time for some humor here and there.
Thank you for actually writing down the 5 points in the Description. You're the first person to do that in a while, instead of just plugging in whatever :D
Thanks again for driver safety and operational driving tips. You're so right. I get more boost by easing the throttle out of turn rather than flooring it. Also, thanks to you I'm careful not to lug the engine out of first gear. Besides, burning rubber from a stop at low rpm is stressful especially when you have to rev it at 3000 rpm to get the necessary torque. Once I get passed first then it starts to rocket and that's fun enough. Thanks again for operational safety tips.
And oh by the way Jason, I just installed the K&N HP air filter and am quite happy with it. Just the sound alone told me it was making a difference. The jiffy lube guys were revving it when one guy said, "hey what kind of car is that? I took it as a complement.
😂
whoever buys the car second hand from you gets a very well protected car I'd say
+2kwik L*l *'ve n*ver he*rd th*t *ne b*fore
+2kwik I wish I understood this logic.... were we watching the same video....
Oh man!! That answer was the best!!!
new owner will definitely discover new jokes:
- knock-knock!
- who's there?
- it me, 4th cylinder
:)
+TIMOSHINA 🙄
Catalytic converter? What catalytic converter?? ;D
Does it make you feel good sending an unnecessary amount of pollutants into the atmosphere?
Jacob Simmons
You're probably right, that's why I bought a very expensive sport cat instead of a decat pipe.
But MANY owners of turbocharged cars just decat their cars.
Many modern petrol cars are quite clean even without cats, though.
+Balls Deep that's what I'm saying
+john doe What a great way to care for your kid's future
yes
As the owner of a new Ford Edge ST, I really enjoyed this video. Very timely for me.
interesting and knowledgable video! My diesel has a dpf (filters out the black soot) and I noticed during more highway driving, I was hitting the gas more in 6th instead of downshifting since diesel cars have more low end torque, and I realised that my car was doing more dpf regens (car self cleans the dpf so it doesn't clog, basically burning off the residue that forms inside the dpf), but now that i'm doing more city driving and never really hitting the gas hard at low rpm, I drove it for almost 3 weeks before it did a regen, whereas with more highway driving than city driving, I was sometimes doing 2 dpf regens a week. Good to know since the dpf regen kills like 30hp whenever it's doing it making the car almost sluggish to respond/drive.....
Not sure what you mean regarding 'lugging' causing the engine to run rich and damage the engine and cat. That is nonsense, modern fuel injection engines control mixture based on engine load, AFR, map etc, the won't allow a engine to run excessively lean or rich. You might have your foot flat to the floor, requesting full power but the ecu will give you what is safe, that means not allowing it to run dangerously rich. Imagine the warranty claims if owners could actually damage their engine buy driving round in a too low gear and the ECU allowing rich mixtures which kill the cat !!!
I have a mazdaspeed 3 which has a fairly modern direct injection engine and this is a known problem among them. Everyone will tell you to never floor the car under 3000 Rpm.
In our mazdaspeeds one of the "problems" (which also results in a lot of fun) is the offset between the center of the crank and the rods, which results into stupidly more torque than similar engines. With the factory insta-spool turbos and some poor tuning the rods can bend or crack in no time.
Most people drive automatics, which require very little effort from the driver in order to keep things reliable. (Example, floor it in a high gear and it downshifts). You can easily damage a manual vehicle if you don't know what you're doing. Burn up the clutch, damage the gears in a launch, cause LSPI. Engines will run rich at high load/high gear (low speed) because it's safer to do so. Running rich greatly reduces the chance of LSPI or knock.
+Engineering Explained I agree ECUs will run rich over lean, that again is a safety feature, in the same way it will pull out ignition timing to prevent pre ignition (knock). Yes of course bad drivers can damage a car with too much clutch slip, poor gear changes brake the gearbox etc etc, but the ECU will prevent incorrect mixtures regardless of what the driver does. If your scenario of low gear acceleration did cause damage due to fuelling that would indicate the ECU couldn't adjust fuel and ignition to keep the AFR and timing under control, which clearly isn't the case. The fact that the same car can reliably operate at high and low altitudes and hot and cold climates means the ECUs have a range of parameters it can adjust to account for external factors whilst keeping everything safe. Catering for the changes in temperature, fuel quality, altitude etc etc which a car sold globally has to cope with is far more complex than people not changing gear early enough.
MJ W LSPI starts happening usually when there are hot spots in the cylinder or on the piston. Especially DI engines will produce a lot of soot which is aggravated by low RPM high load situations when the mixture is enriched. Over time that soot clogs onthe piston crown (also helped by poor gas quality, extended service intervals, frequent short trips with a cold engine, and so on). That is something that the ECU cannot control and can't prevent either because it's not post spark ignition, is just a spontaneous phenomenon.
Thank you for writing the list in the description!
That is a beautiful road ! (Good advice, too)
Excellent engineering explanations especially for turbo cars! Well explained and narrated! Thank you!
I've done all of these.....whoops
Achievement unlocked: living dangerously (15p)
-_-
Oops indeed. To be honest I'm used to flooring the engine and shifting early. Oh well. Time to change that.
how could you be flooring it and early shifting? im guessing you mean at different times?? That just sounds like your not treating your car very well lol
Basically I fully press the accelerator (without kick down, and the pedal is set to eco, so it is a bit gentler) starting from say 1100 rpm, and shift at 1500-1600 rpm, rinse repeat. I suppose that's not how you should do it... I'll try to keep it in mind.
I have Placebocharged car, does ths apply to my car ??
+Dustin Dryden that was really funny lol. I actually believed it with all the tire squeal
oh, so that's you who everyone has fun with!
sadness-aspirated
+zloychechen5150 placebocharging is real... now my 1.3 orion makes 800whp and it can make as much as I wish.
I once bought a whistle that clamped onto my exhaust that made a whistling sound when the exhaust pressure was high. It was super lame. Then it fell off.
Fun part of the Subaru Diesel I got is that the shift indicator pretty much tells you to run your engine at the low revs high load condition all the time. it even use more fuel than just shifting down and up the revs a bit. I never run the engine on the low revs that introduces the heavy vibrations since I know it´s not good to do so
Excellent video and information. It's much what I do anyway when driving my Turbo Car but I notice that most people do not.
I'm not an engineer. But I am a professional driver. If you floor the accelerator pedal at low RPM in a manual vehicle, nothing immediately happens to the boost, neither will it damage the engine. The accelerator will open the butterfly in the throttle body to allow more air, the computer will measure how much air is being forced into the engine per stroke and inject the required amount of fuel to achieve a clean burn as predetermined by the ECUs' fuel-air mixture mapping. This results in increased engine speed which correlates to increased exhaust gas flow which in turn increases the rpm of the turbo which THEN increases the boost pressure incrementally as the engine gains speed until peak boost is reached and the wastegate is actuated. What you're referring to is called laboring the engine, which is only 'undesirable' as it won't actually damage anything other than the drivers' pride if they don't compensate for the lack of power at low RPM in a high load scenario and actually stall the vehicle. The most common high load scenarios encountered would be driving on an incline, or attempting to overtake without downshifting. The same applies to N/A vehicles as well.
This would be better classified as one of your pet hates, not an actual 'do not do'. (you may be referring to the thermodynamic efficiency of a gasoline engine and its relativity to combustion efficiency in a high load scenario, which is something completely different and has more to do with fuel efficiency than any damage that might occur)
+Julian Fuller laboring your engine can cause LSPI and damage your engine. Owners manuals will suggest against it for this very reason. Here's an explanation: ruclips.net/video/soJea7xEt-8/видео.html
Engineering Explained I know what LSPI is. However, due to design parameters of engines, actual damage resulting from LSPI to a vehicle straight off the showroom floor would be a rare occurrence. There is more risk when owners begin modifying engines and changing the operating parameters. I took the time to watch the clip you posted out of courtesy, and if you were really honest, your argument is presented along the same lines as "if you go outside your chances of being stuck by lightning are higher than if you stay inside." Especially considering the report indicated that the circumstances would need to be 'just right'. Laboring an engine is more a poor behavioural issue. The same as failure to indicate also increases the risk of being involved in a collision and thereby resulting in vehicle damage. Looks like we'll be keeping seperate opinions on this one.
Exactly and he also claimed engine RPM limits the amount of air an enjine can injest. This makes even less sense considering we are talking turbo cars which pressurize the intake and are ramming air in at a set psi.
Allan Nichols Maybe your enGine can't inGest much because you filled it up with drop many "J"s?
None of us know the proprietary alloys that are used for performance and on the other hand to save money in new or older turbo charged cars. Sure the same factory may make a specific part for many companies, but it is made according to the formula given to them by the car manufacturer. There is no wide brush to cover everything in a general way. If there were racing would be easy. We want to say do this one thing for every car, but that is not the reality. Even the same parts in same model cars with a little tweak can behave quite differently. Premium fuel certainly has more energy in a the same general volume, but weather your car is sensitive to that or not again depends on your cars particular collection of parts.The closer the Octane rings are together for the right air mixture and ignition will give more power.
HIgher altitude gas stations offer a wide range ot octane strings to accomodate different cars at different altitudes with different turbos, no turbos, or just different parts that work differently in concert together.
"we all will fail at something, so make sure it is at something you enjoy!"
My GTI still runs the oil pump for the turbo after the engine is shut off so it doesn't burn out the bearings in the turbo. Newer cars dont need to be kept on after your done driving.
Yeah same on my old scooby.
same here, turbo is coolant cooled and doesn't need to be run at the end of the trip.
Yer all new cars are fine pretty much all cars have turbos now ie golfs and Ford Focus and they have auto stop at the lights!
+elmin2323 I never even considered that, good point!
It's still a good idea to cool your car down. It's not just the turbo that gets stressed.
I just got my first turbocharged car and wanted to understand the science behind driving. Thanks for helping me get a little closer. For the alg
I appreciate the educational and informal explanations to how modern and older vehicles work from a engineers point of view
Great vid mate, and extremely informative.
A great video for EE: How altitude affects the performance of internal combustion engines? NA, turbocharged and supercharged
This is where “down a gear, disappear” actually exist for once
Thank you very much for the informative videos :D
I absolutely love your videos. It's nice to be able to totally agree on everything you say.. Iv always told others about loading up an engine at low rpm. It's just an unnecessary pressure on everything Inc clutch and gearbox. Also like the part of about warming up the oil before thrashing.. Some of my work colleagues can't get out of the car park fast enough in the mornings even when it's -5° some hitting the redline.. I place bets on who's going to need an engine replacement first lol
Realistically, probably none of you. Body rusts out before engine is dead on pretty much every car in my region.
Your in the Columbia gorge, in Oregon! I have been on this old Columbia hwy...
1 thing you should do to not damage your car.
DON'T drive the car at all!
I'm pretty sure certain components actually go bad faster when not used
just dont buy the car in the first place😂😂
Also, a REALLY good way to save on gas!
@@Presence_of_Mind_ some ferrari owners got really angry because their batteries kept going, so ferrari just told them to drive it more. ferrari never learns lol.
On corners I do a rev match downshift and floor it just before the road straightens out, and it is fun. I slid a little once when it was raining, but I was pushing the limits of physics that day.
Never? 2003 VW Jetta TDI. There's an oil heater/cooler connected to the coolant lines, so oil temp should always be close to engine temp. There's no preignition because a diesel is intended to have ignition right when the fuel is injected. And I'm not so sure about the richened mixture to the catalytic converter being a problem, because the rich mixture at low RPMs could've been optimized out in the ECU by the manufacturer if it were something that'd cause a lot of problems.
Also knock sensors will adjust timing to fix the knock to avoid damage.
Another excellent and informative video, thanks heaps!
Some excellent advice as usual from this gentleman
Another excellent, informative and educating video. Thanks! > On a different note, why do certain car manufacturers say "Regular unleaded (Premium Recommended)"? Would it be too bad for a turbo engine to be given Regular Unleaded, but every 5,000 or 7,000 miles put a Fuel Injector Cleaner like BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner? Would that be enough or is it ALWAYS better to put the Premium gas?
Appreciation the info. I suggest you guys watching his hole video as it contains many useful pieces of info as well as explanations.
1) Not running the engine hard until engine oil is warmed up - which can take some time. Don't rely on the cooling gauge. Wait a few minutes after coolant is warmed up.
2) Not immediately shut up the engine right after a trip. Let it cool down by avoid the boost before shutting it off.
3) Avoid high load at low engine RPM. (Which btw, how do you avoid in an automatic like a CR-V? I can't downshift.)
4) Use the best fuel (highest octane)
5) Don't floor it right after a corner. (Joy kill for me. Ugh. Don't think it matters w/ my tiny CR-V though)
hey im a little late but i think you're ok with #3 because the auto will downshift for you
One of the best roads out there! My favorite on that strip is Latourell Falls. Thanks for a great video.
So an oil temperature gauge is very important! Thanks for the info!
i have been a subaru tech for 38 years,you are right on the money,awesome video
b17boss17 you must be at least 67 years old
56 could do it
b17boss17 o
I'd disagree with his statement about pump gas and engine knock. All pump gas could be used for low compression turbo cars and not have to worry about knock when stock. Use a octane booster if you have problems with this but most stock STI can run on 87 89 and 91. You won't even notice horsepower loss.
Been a honda/toyota tech for years, not much to do
You have the same voice like Ross from Friends :D
Fortunately my Golf R has an oil temperature readout which I use continuously to monitor warmup and cool down. We are fortunate in Florida to have readily available 93 octane (needed to maximize my APR tune) along with a Shell rewards card (as Shell is one of the best gasolines).
Windshield oil change sticker, surprised that Jason doesn’t do his own. I was looking for a well taken care of WRX hatch a couple years ago. Would have liked to grabbed his when he sold it.
you're talking about lugging in a diesel an saying that it will inject more fuel and it's bad? huh? they're mapped ECU' you can floor it at 1000 rpm and it will refer to the load chart mapped in the ecu and inject the right amount of fuel for that rpm. You're then on about to not power out of the corner, it's logical, you can do that with a regular car that's non turbo, you have grip then get into the powerband and it starts to slip.
That's what I has thinking. The ECU is going to control AFR's under any condition you could drive the engine. My VW TSI runs low rpms through the automatic trans and mimic diesel like power out of a gas engine. Knock sensors are going to correct any mis-givings.
Turbo lag is more extreme though ;p
+Rennie Ash in some cases yeah, but it's not something you 'shouldn't do' I swear that EE is just saying it as a 'filler' to make the video longer.
+diesel mutt88 also about having to buy the more expensive site fuel for a turbo car, that's is a heck load of BS, y out will only have a difference in power and unless you have a car that is ultimately tuned for one type of fuel, you will not notice a difference.
He should have said never to put lesser octane fuel in your car than the one it was tuned on by a manufacturer, it is even written in cars manuals. My car was tuned from factory on 95 octane but I have never filled 95 only 98 octane or at one stage they had 100 octane fuel (98 petrol +10% ethanol mixture) at certain pumps but its not sold anymore so I just add few litres of e85 on top of 98 octane. Once its modified it is tuned to one type of fuel but some car have the ability to have maps for 2 fuel types say e85 and 98 where you can switch from one to another
Much more love for n/a engines❤️
Right after we turbo them.
Said no one ... Ever
Informative...your the best sir....have learned alot of things
Love this video, alot info thanks.
Good to know, now I'm only missing the turbocharged car :'D
Hey, me too!
So you sold the STI, do you have your LS1 swapped miata replacement yet??
Keeping the oil changed in a turbo car is even more important than in a non-turbo.
Frr
Great tips. Tks
"We've got some big sticks on the road" - Engineering Explained 2016
I love to climb steep hills in my subaru, i usually start off in 6th gear floored!
Interesting information. Thanks.
Nice video, learned a lot, thanks
Can you do a similar video with a Supercharged engine? I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix GT Supercharged V6. I don't want accidentally abuse it if I don't have to.
Big fan of this channel. Though, the coolant and oil temperature relationship depends on how the design engineers were allowed to design the car based on trade-offs (I'm one too). Meaning, there may be automotive manufacturers who have further evaluated this risk for the benefit of the consumer (prior SAAB no GM?). This video might be considered correct for basic European and American cars.
Great info thanks!
EXCELLENT.
As Always. Always!
Fun fact for the author himself: Most cars that are equipped with oil cooler (typicaly if it has forced induction chances are it has oil cooler too), also have OIL thermostat which serves for cutting the oil off of the oil cooler, making it get hotter sooner than normal :)
That's really cool! And good to know
*just bought my first turbo car. now i actually need to watch this. let the schooling begin.*
How's that turbo doing?
Excellent video
i love your vids. very very educating
On point two, you missed the main reason not to shut one out like that: Turbo spooldown.
Turbos spool at ridiculous speeds. Over a hundred thousand RPM for smaller ones is not uncommon. They rely on engine oil flow to stay alive and if they're not given a few moments to spool down on engine shutdown they'll cook their bearings in no time flat.
give me a example of someone who does not let their turbo spool down before turning it off. last I checked, you get off your gas pedal.
who would boost their turbos to spool up and then turn the car off?? phuuuk you mean?
TestECull you got to be a assclown to turn your car off in less than 3 seconds after boosting. Never heard of such a thing.
mimike80
It's not boosting. It's *any* driving. Even puttering down the road at 1700RPM is enough to get the turbos spinning fast enough that their lifespans are drastically shortened without being allowed to fully spool down first.
Why are you resisting so hard the idea that you can save yourself a few thousand dollars every 2 years by waiting an extra 3-5 seconds before shutting the engine down?
TestECull false. Ridiculous. Who does that.
Is it just me or do you have the other impression here? When I put my Diesel (6.5, Turbo) in Park or Neutral the RPMs go up for a second or two then they go down. I can't say I know for sure if that's the turbo but it does happen.
I have heard about pre/post-lubricating systems to help prevent undue wear and tear on the turbo, especially after turning the engine off.
What are your thoughts on this?
Years ago I heard of a lot of people using a "turbo timer" that would keep the engine running or keep the pump running for 5-10 minutes after you took the key out. Would be weird to walk away with the engine still going...
Regarding lugging, there have been and are turbo charged engines which were designed not for maximising output but for fuel economy and relatively low engine speed operation, so they may not mind a bit of lugging, but yes, generally not a good idea.
Years ago we had a VW diesel turbo. My wife drove it to work which was about 8 miles. Rarely was it driven at highway speeds. After 2 years, a new turbo, intake cleaning and finally a rebuilt transmission, it was time to trade.
7:30 I learned that from Initial D lol. You should do an episode about all the things mentioned in the anime right and wrong.
his deadpan criticisms would be gold