Should I put a turbo on my Celica? ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 4. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 5. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 6. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 7. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2uUZ3lo 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y 🔥Scotty Shirts and Merch ► goo.gl/pTAeca Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN Scotty on Social: Facebook ► facebook.com/scottymechanic/ Instagram ► instagram.com/scotty_the_mechanic/ Twitter ► twitter.com/Scottymechanic?lang=en
I have two cara that have turbo on them. Runs great keep them maintained. No problems. Only time people that has problems with there's is lack of or abuse. Seen some engines that should never have a turbo. Like the Chevy sonic it had a turbo the engine grenade because of poor engine design third gen perfect but the first gen 1.6 Malibu has had a issue. Poor engine design. The piston sleeves rock. When they changed the design of the bottom it was fine
Bought a Saab in the mid 85's and the mechanic at the dealership stopped me before I drove it the first time and told me the exact same thing Scotty said about letting the engine warm up a few minutes before driving the vehicle hard and also letting the car idle for around 30 seconds before shutting off the engine. Told me that was the key to not having problems with the turbo charger. Never forgot it and never had a problem the whole time I owned the car.
I had a customer with that volvo, blew the turbo because they didnt change the oil. I quoted them a turbo and oil change. they asked if they could just do the turbo and wait on the oil change. no wonder they blew it,
If I had been you, I would have just stood there for a few seconds, with an absolutely perplexed look on my face until they asked why I looked so surprised then find a way to politely explain what an utterly asinine idea that is
Many of those things apply to non-turbo engines also. It all comes down to: properly maintain your engine, and drive moderately and it should last a long time.
@@poppyneese1811 my mechanic ended up being able to repair the turbo without having to replace it, not sure how. my little 1.9tdi volkswagen is still going and now its 20yrs old lol. Still using scotties advice
The bearings in a turbocharger spin at such a hight rate that really what is actually happening is the turbo bearings are riding on a film of oil. Similar to the concept of tires on a road riding on a film of water instead of the road commonly referred to as hydroplaning. This is why oil pressure is important because the bearings at high speeds cannot make contact with metal they rely on oil separation.
When the bearings crap out the compressor wheel grinds filling your engine with aluminum filings and the engine will have to taken apart and cleaned out.
I'm overdoing it. I let it run for a few minutes and slowly drive it through town before i punch it. I also spend about 2 minutes sitting before i turn it off. change the oil every 3K miles...
Everyone who is concerned about turbos should remember that semi tractors all have them on their engines and they generally last over a million miles. I personally owned a Cummins with 1.2 million miles with no problems when I sold it.
Yeah, start&stop is a cancer for the engine. Here in EU every car has to have it, and in some countries you can even get fined for disabling it. I just turn it off after every startup. New volvos have it kind of more clever though. It does not shut off the engine for a few minutes after startup, and also after driving it hard. Even after you turn the engine off, you can hear the electric water pump buzzing, so I guess it still runs water through the turbo to cool it.
Here’s another tip out there Scotty I usually open my hood when I get home or wherever I stop at, if I can open it to let all that heat out the engine it keeps all the hoses and motor parts from getting hard and brittle and it also cools the engine down I’ve been doing this for years.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Soooo, I guess I been doing it all wrong. Accelerator to the floor, Turn key, Engine screams to 7,500 RPM right off the bat for 5 minutes, Neighbors pissed from the noise, Dogs barking everywhere, Blue smoke fills the air, THEN I bring her down to a quiet whisper at 750 RPM and slowly creep out the drive as not to be a nuisance since I go to work at 10 PM.. LMAO :)~
Scotty didn't mention that the best way to cool a turbo after a blast on the freeway or a long uphill is to cool it with residential driving speeds of 25-30 mph before then idling for 30-60 seconds. You need to allow a turbo to "spool down" RPM s as well as cool down.
Thank you so much for educating us on turbo charged engines. I am purchasing a Honda Crv with a turbo charged engine and have never had a turbo charged motor before.
Glad you used that early 2000’s Volvo in this video :) I have the 2006 V70 version with the same engine and transmission. They are great cars and last a really long time if you maintain them. I change oil every 4-5k miles and use Mobil 1, quality filter, and BG’s MOA additive; transmission fluid and filter change ~ every 30k miles. It’s going strong with no leaks or oil loss at 127k miles currently. These cars are also structurally solid and refuse to rust!
Thanks Scotty for posting this video. I have a Chevy 2012 Cruze with the turbocharged engine. It hesitates when I step on the gas. Sometimes, it does not accelerate at all which is real dangerous when I am merging with traffic. I brought it into the dealership. I told them about it but all they said was it needing a new turbocharger and intercooler because it came back with an under boost code. After they replaced it, it still has issues with hesitation, especially when it's hot outside, usually above 80 degrees. It can get to be over 90 or a 100 around here, so I dread merging onto the freeway. After watching this video, I plan on replacing the synthetic oil over 5000 miles and letting the engine warm up 10 seconds, I hope this will solve the issue with the hesitation. The dealer cant seem to solve it. Im no mechanic so I rely on car guys for advice and fixing my car. The car is great, when it doesn't hesitate or have rough idling that shakes the whole car. I'm considering buy a Corolla or Camry after watching your videos about how great Toyotas are.
I drive a 2012 Volvo XC60 with much the same system. I use full synthetic oil and change every 7500 miles. I drive a lot so that's like 2 months haha. I have 176,000 miles and for "poop and laughter" I called up a Volvo specialist to ask them about how long the turbos last. The mechanic said "I've been a Volvo tech for 20 years. I've seen 2." I then called a turbo shop to see how much a hypothetical rebuild would cost. The owner replied "I don't know. Yours would be the first one I've ever seen and won't know till I got it apart". Apparently, Volvo turbos are stronger than others.
The turbos on most Volvo’s are Mitsubishi made. It’s not a common point of failure. Far more likely to hear about transmission or PCV issues. Hope you got your transmission oil changed. My 05 S80 auto crapped out around 160,000 with no changes. It was 16 years old however.
@@Arby631 Mine's made by BorgWarner. Not sure about the old ones. I also have an Aisin TF80SC transmission. With fluid changes every 50k or so, it seems to be holding up well.
@@alexandermartincausey7333 . My auto transmission mechanic changes my Aisin TF80SC every 20,000 kms. I think that it's very cheap insurance seeing that a new tranny would be around $4000
@@Arby631 Looking past how an 05 model got to 16 years old prior to 2020 ;p... "lifetime" ATF is intentional industry stupidity that's come with the industry's move to sealed transmissions. It's bunk that leads to premature AT failure. Sure it's a pain to pay for a complicated change with pricey fluid every 100000km on my 1993 5 series V8s, but not as big a pain as a blown transmission which happened with great regularity in these models on the stock fluid generally between 150000 and 200000 km. On the upside, the reputation means they are cheap to buy, wreckers are well stocked with parts, and they are fantastic candidates for manual conversions.
I would also suggest disabling the ignition after oil changes and turning over the engine until you have proper oil pressure. Perhaps 30 seconds. This was in the manual for my Merkur turbo.
Is it: Disconnect the wastegate air control valve so that your boost goes from about 8psi to 27psi? If it isn’t; don’t. You’ll blow a head gasket. Learned that one the hard way as a kid.
Hey, someone told me about the wastegate of the turbo. If you adjust it right you get your turbo kick in fast. Is there any danger doing that? My turbo usually kicked in at 2000-2100 rpm, but after driving the thing for about 10 years with 100000 kms on it, it started kicking in at 2500 rpm. So i did that adjustment on the wastegate and its now back on 2000-2100 rpm range. Is it good or bad? Thanks
I’m so happy I’ve been doing this as a habit since getting my car almost 4 years ago, always let it idle until the RPM sinks a little, never going above 2,500rpm until the oil has reached at least near normal operating temps and always drive calmly if I’m stopping soon to let the Turbo cool down, don’t know if it matters for my Supercharger but at least I know my Turbo is being treated well 😁
My experience with supercharged engines is with diesels in the army. Not sure how that translates to civilian vehicles but just trying to floor them early you feel the engine is unhappy. Warmed up and they're fine especially when already driving at speed.
in 1986 I used to be in the boost all the time in my SVO. Had a boost controller and beat 5.0s all the time. That boost uphill felt like being pushed by a big wave.
I own a 2014 Volvo V40 T5 (5 Cylinder Turbo) Cross Country here on the island of Phuket in SW Thailand. Just pushed through 45,000km after 10yrs of ownership. All servicing done at the Volvo Service Center. Oil & Filter changes every 5,000km (3,000mi) or 6 months. Absolutely love this car…..!!!
Have been using turbo charged equipment for many years and have always done regular oil changes, let turbos warmup and cool down and have not experienced any failures.
Have can’t say I fully agree on Turbocharged engines getting better MPG over NA engines. Had an 04’ SRT4 & 12’ Genesis 2.0 both manual with boost gauges. Did a road test from Houston to SA & only ran Vacuum based off the boost gauges & neither of them got better mpg over the same trip with my 15’ Mazda 6 (manual) & 15’ Civic Si (Manual).
Replace any journal bearing turbos for a ball bearing unit, replace tube and fin intercoolers for a bar and plate design, replace rubber and plastic charge pipes with silicone and ceramic coated aluminum, and replace all worm clamps with t-bolts. Turbo timers are a good investment as is upgrading your radiator if you plan on running anything over stock boost levels.
@-TheManInDboX - waste of money... You know where you are driving, just drive normal for 5 mins before your destination. Most turbos after the early 90s are oil and water cooled, the water recirculates still after you shut it off. my daily 98 wrx, factory turbo, 173000 miles, still makes 12 psi
@-TheManInDboX - haha yea those Stangs will send you careening to the left , and I've wanted to drive a Hellcat just for the feels. That Subie was a true lemon.
I remember the 1978 Buick turbo cars. A friend had a Regal with the turbo. His parents were told to let it idle for 4-5 minutes before ever turning it off. They never had an issue
Thank you Scotty. I have the exact same model and I do do the things you outlined before I watched the video but always good to have them reinforced and available to everyone.
I just got a 2015 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo and have been learning all I can since this is my first turbo vehicle owned. As soon as I can get the money I'm getting an Oil Catch Can installed. Other than a K&N air filter, I haven't found any upgrades that are worth getting that are cheap and easy enough to buy and/or do myself.
Also another tip. Whether you are driving an AT or manual, be at least 2700-3000rpm before you floor it. Don't accelerate from like 1500rpm, you are flooding your engine and the turbo builds the boost much slower from slower rpm and you could end up with detonation from unburned fuel and there goes your entire engine and say goodbye to your car. Also if you are buying a turbocharged car, it requires much more TLC than an naturally aspirated. You have to keep an eye on everything and you have to change spark plugs much more frequently and be mindful what kind of fuel you are putting in. All require top-tier gas, Exxon, Shell, Sunaco, etc. Walmart's brandless fuel, Sam's Club etc.. or something like that will not do any good.
I have. 2022 WRX. The first thing I did to it was fitted an intercooler screen. Ten the mods began with Ernest. I’ve always warmed up he engine for least 3 to 5 minutes before driving & 1 or 2 minutes before shutting it down. After 1 year it hasn’t used any oil.
I've got a fusion with the 1.5 turbo and hearing you talk about the extra strain making them last less had me stressed. I think you've helped ease that some so thanks Scotty!
I drove a turbocharged Corvair Spyder well over 100K with absolutely no problems. Was on a 5000 mi oil change schedule. Conventional oil, 1962-1970. It had a side-draft carb.
I recently changed the turbocharger in a 2005 Volvo XC90 2.5L. Specifically for this model, change the PCV hose and breather box if it’s never been changed and has over 100k miles. Replacing the turbo is expensive and labor intensive especially for an amateur home mechanic like myself with hand tools. All great tips mentioned. When the turbo goes you will know...ridiculous amount of smoke out the tailpipe and very little power. Had trouble getting up a small hill when mine went.
I have a 2016 Jetta TSI 1.4L S model. It has a 5 speed Manual and runs great. I’m glad to say I abide by these rules. Also, I’ve made 46.3 miles per gallon on the interstate and average 33mpg on the back roads.
Ive been driving my subaru wrx hard for 120k miles and the turbo and engine are working flawlessly still. But everything he said in this video i already do.
Same here, 128k miles on a Mazdaspeed 3 and somehow turbo didn't give up on me yet. I had some small parts to fix here and there but it was mostly a 50-100$ jobs overall.
All good tips. Speaking my language. I have 2 90s twin turbo cars..I love. They run great and I follow all the steps to maintain. But not looking forward to anything breaking some day. Fingers crossed.
I remember when I tried telling a "friend" that he should let the car idle for a minute before turning the engine off whenever he reached his destination. He told me I was dumb and he didnt need to. He sold the car later after his turbo blew. He drove the car like a madman wherever he went and had a turbo timer but was too dumb to figure out how to use it
I bought a '79 Mustang once that had a "dead" turbo. (I needed a car right THEN, OK?) The car could not make it up hills unless you shifted all the way to 2nd gear. Car was nearly 20 years old at the time, so I knew what I was getting. Talk about adventures in emergency repairs!
Good info Scotty but I knew all this 30 years ago when I had my Mazda 323GT turbo. Never had a single problem with it. Drive a turbo car gently until it's warmed up then go full blast. Drive it gently again before shutting it off. This is good practice for all cars anyway.
They are fun! Have a 2002 subura wrx just hit 225,000. Doing everything scotty just listed in the video. Turbochargers are a blast just be responsible.
Brilliant as ever ! I have a Saab aero convertible with 2.0 turbo engine petrol Religiously change oil every 5k Fully synthetic Coolant every three years Let car idle for thirty seconds before turning off
@@Tiagotaf chevy cruze 1.4 turbo, the new honda 1.5 turbo. the 1.4 turbo in fiats. and many many modern engines have the pcv valve integrated into the intake manifold or even in the valve cover!.
I got my first turbo car about 22 months ago, and while I still don't like the lag and spool time, the need to be careful about cooling it down, not being able to prod it below 3k RPM for fear of oil-starving the turbo, and the terrible fuel economy... I admit it's a rush when the thing wakes up at 4000 RPM. Wish they still made large displacement manual cars as practical as a Subie.
Thanks for this, Scotty. Recently purchased a Subaru Ascent and it has a 4 cylinder turbo and I was wondering how to get the most out of it since I’ve never had a turbo car before.
Replace your turbo lines with silicone hoses and inspect them at every service. Newer turbos are coolant and oil cooled, just restart your engine if you ever stall your engine after driving it hard, let it cool down for about a minute or you can run the aircon on hot for about a minute which will switch on the electric cooling fans.
My VW's turbo continues to have oil/and or coolant pumped through it after the car is turned off in warmer weather and if you run it hard. It’ll run for a few minutes and you can hear the fan running. When we first got the car we didn’t know what was happening. It sounded like it was still running. It is a good safety feature for the turbo.
I’ve watch many of your videos and have Come to the conclusion you may have Missed your calling. You should of been A conductor for some huge orchestra.
Thanks for the upload mate. I'm considering a turbo 4 and this helped a lot. I like the part about driving conservatively. I do that. I've got 161K (almost 100,000 miles) on my car that I've owned since new and have not replaced the brake pads. Note. Here in Australia, we have to pass a roadworthy test every year including a calibrated emergency brake test. It passed about 2 weeks ago.
Nah that's wild. Emergency brakes are one thing but I'd assume your brakes had to be replaced. Cause braking is friction...your pads will wear down, so unless you never break I'm kinda surprised. You ever wonder if they've changed your pads and made you pay without realizing it?
@@jakecoyne3919Yeah nah, servicing would always be the same price as per the new car at the time. Registration checks every year do a brake test and they always passed. I knew the mechanic quite well and he looked at the pads and they were still good, Sold the car now so I'll never know how much longer they lasted. Also, I'm one of those drivers that is always scanning well ahead so when I do brake, it's usually only light pressure.
@@herc_ules_therealone wow, that's crazy. I have to do them often enough cause I live in one of the worst traffic spots in the USA so I unfortunately have to ride my brakes cause our transit system is awful and everyone has a car
One more usefull piece of info is the turbocharger's duty cycle. In ordinary cars, they don't make the turbos with high duty cycle, so as Skotty says, the power is there when you need it, but it's not designed to work on full power for a long period of time. You got to let it rest a bit.
Hey scotty, someone told me about the wastegate of the turbo. If you adjust it right you get your turbo kick in fast. Is there any danger doing that? My turbo usually kicked in at 2000-2100 rpm, but after driving the thing for about 10 years with 100000 kms on it, it started kicking in at 2500 rpm. So i did that adjustment on the wastegate and its now back on 2000-2100 rpm range. Is it good or bad? Thanks
The fuel economy thing is very true. Usually I drive pretty normal, but after going through 17 miles of road in the mountains, I'm almost out of gas. Hard downshifts and acceleration make ur car WORK
One time I reset the fuel use guage, and floored my 2 L turbo to see what would happen. At full throttle, it worked out to 3 mpg. It was pretty quick too. Driving carefully, I can get over 35 mpg. Not too bad for an SUV that can tow my boat.
Hi Scotty! This is my first question: I'm a new driver. I heard that when stopping at a red light for a long time, you should put your automatic transmission from D to N to reduce grind from the engines. I've also seen my father put it to P while waiting for a long time at a red light. Online forums say to leave it in D for safety's sake, and not to wear out the transmission clutches. As a mechanic, which practice is the best? THANKS!
Awesome Thanks Scotty! Needed this video! My fusion is my first turbocharged car. I don't plan on replacing the turbo until I make the car my weekend toy
What you're saying about giving the engine a few seconds to establish oil circulation and giving it a few miles to warm up before pushing things is sound advise regardless of whether the engine is turbocharged or not.
I have a 97 f350 7.3 powerstroke. I like to let it warmup a bit. I let it cool down a bit especially when i pull my 13k trl. I do pretty much all heavy accelerations and i get about 12.5 empty period. I can also baby it and get 12.5 so let that coal roll. The trk drops to 8.3 when im towing my trl. I also have added a 5 inch exhaust on trk and did a napa 6637 air filter mod and ive doubled my boost over choky stock intake n exhausting
Should I put a turbo on my Celica?
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As you said on your previous videos. Rebuild the engine first 😂😂😂
Please do
Lol I’d pay too see it Scotty
Scotty’s Celica build?
YES PLEASE
Scotty: Rev up your engine!
Me: I have a turbo.
Scotty: DON'T
@*_•reshirm•_* They don't rev up, only disintegrate.
I have two cara that have turbo on them. Runs great keep them maintained. No problems. Only time people that has problems with there's is lack of or abuse. Seen some engines that should never have a turbo. Like the Chevy sonic it had a turbo the engine grenade because of poor engine design third gen perfect but the first gen 1.6 Malibu has had a issue. Poor engine design. The piston sleeves rock. When they changed the design of the bottom it was fine
Ha...so true.
Beau lol 😂
Scotty do! (Goldmember)
Bought a Saab in the mid 85's and the mechanic at the dealership stopped me before I drove it the first time and told me the exact same thing Scotty said about letting the engine warm up a few minutes before driving the vehicle hard and also letting the car idle for around 30 seconds before shutting off the engine. Told me that was the key to not having problems with the turbo charger. Never forgot it and never had a problem the whole time I owned the car.
Those old Saabs were capable of very high mileages. Those and the Volvo 240s. Sometimes you had to find the right mechanic, however.
I don't think it was your driving, they were bullet proof
Awesome
Saabs are fuggin' awesome.
Wow, what an honest mechanic he must be. Wish we had more people like him and Scotty around. Sigh
"And! Since it's Mechanic Monday, I'm giving away a free turbocharger!" LOL
That would be awesome,
NNNIIICCCEEEE!!!!!.
Can we sneak up on Scotties Celica and bolt the new turbocharger on it?.(Scotty would love that HAHA!!)
Stole mine too. I was hoping for some upgraded turbos, lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
4 gauge While we’re at it we can remove and replace the old air filter setup with a cold air intake. A 2 for 2 special! Scotty would be impressed! 😂😂😂
I had a customer with that volvo,
blew the turbo because they didnt change the oil.
I quoted them a turbo and oil change.
they asked if they could just do the turbo and wait on the oil change.
no wonder they blew it,
Penny wise, pound foolish
Lol
If I had been you, I would have just stood there for a few seconds, with an absolutely perplexed look on my face until they asked why I looked so surprised then find a way to politely explain what an utterly asinine idea that is
Nathan Brame why didn’t you advise against it?? You just wanted they $$ ?
@@TEFLONFRMDC i would have changed their oil wether they would have paid for it or not. just so they would be sure not to come back lol
Many of those things apply to non-turbo engines also. It all comes down to: properly maintain your engine, and drive moderately and it should last a long time.
Sure, but you can also drive it hard if you take proper care of it.
My turbocharger turned 18 years old and finally stopped working, all of Scottys tips in this are spot on btw.
Amazing did you pretty much do what Scotties saying? I’m the owner of my 2nd Ecoboost powered F150, my first 94k not the first problem, any advice?
@@poppyneese1811 my mechanic ended up being able to repair the turbo without having to replace it, not sure how. my little 1.9tdi volkswagen is still going and now its 20yrs old lol. Still using scotties advice
The bearings in a turbocharger spin at such a hight rate that really what is actually happening is the turbo bearings are riding on a film of oil. Similar to the concept of tires on a road riding on a film of water instead of the road commonly referred to as hydroplaning. This is why oil pressure is important because the bearings at high speeds cannot make contact with metal they rely on oil separation.
Fantastic point.
When the bearings crap out the compressor wheel grinds filling your engine with aluminum filings and the engine will have to taken apart and cleaned out.
Can you highlight what needs to be done to increase fuel economy and maintain turbo charge cars? Would be really helpful
Yikes, no wonder it's so important not to ask for much boost below a good RPM
I'm overdoing it. I let it run for a few minutes and slowly drive it through town before i punch it. I also spend about 2 minutes sitting before i turn it off. change the oil every 3K miles...
That's not overdoing it actually, that way the car stays clean and will always perform at her best until rust hits it cause the parts are cheap made
Everyone who is concerned about turbos should remember that semi tractors all have them on their engines and they generally last over a million miles. I personally owned a Cummins with 1.2 million miles with no problems when I sold it.
Here's also a tip: With a modern turbocharged car, turn off the start&stop system so the engine doesn't get shut down after driving hard.
I turn it off every time I get in my car.
Is there a fuse or relay you can pull to turn it off permanently?
Texas BEAST some cars you can hook up a laptop and do some programming stuff. On 16 and newer Ford pickups you can use ForScan to rid that feature.
Yeah, start&stop is a cancer for the engine. Here in EU every car has to have it, and in some countries you can even get fined for disabling it. I just turn it off after every startup. New volvos have it kind of more clever though. It does not shut off the engine for a few minutes after startup, and also after driving it hard. Even after you turn the engine off, you can hear the electric water pump buzzing, so I guess it still runs water through the turbo to cool it.
-TheManInDboX - My manual car has start&stop, I turn it off though
Here’s another tip out there Scotty I usually open my hood when I get home or wherever I stop at, if I can open it to let all that heat out the engine it keeps all the hoses and motor parts from getting hard and brittle and it also cools the engine down I’ve been doing this for years.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great tip. How old is your ride?
I laughed so hard when he said teen age boy driving crazy then showed a picture of subaru 😂😂 so true
Just bought one hahahaha two days ago a Legacy 2.5 gt ! 34000 miles for a 2008 !
I did know about driving calmly at the start but i didn’t know about the idling before turning it off
Soooo, I guess I been doing it all wrong. Accelerator to the floor, Turn key, Engine screams to 7,500 RPM right off the bat for 5 minutes, Neighbors pissed from the noise, Dogs barking everywhere, Blue smoke fills the air, THEN I bring her down to a quiet whisper at 750 RPM and slowly creep out the drive as not to be a nuisance since I go to work at 10 PM.. LMAO :)~
I just snorted Sprite through my nose while reading this. Well done. 😁
huntercentury wait.... you snorted sprite? 😬
Scotty didn't mention that the best way to cool a turbo after a blast on the freeway or a long uphill is to cool it with residential driving speeds of 25-30 mph before then idling for 30-60 seconds. You need to allow a turbo to "spool down" RPM s as well as cool down.
Scotty telling me not to "Rev up my engine". Why I'd never.
Love the content Scotty, great job.
Thank you so much for educating us on turbo charged engines. I am purchasing a Honda Crv with a turbo charged engine and have never had a turbo charged motor before.
Glad you used that early 2000’s Volvo in this video :) I have the 2006 V70 version with the same engine and transmission. They are great cars and last a really long time if you maintain them. I change oil every 4-5k miles and use Mobil 1, quality filter, and BG’s MOA additive; transmission fluid and filter change ~ every 30k miles. It’s going strong with no leaks or oil loss at 127k miles currently. These cars are also structurally solid and refuse to rust!
I own the v70 xc 2004. Currently in 323k miles. Hahahaha! No single problem! Instrument cluster misbehave sometimes anyway
Thanks Scotty for posting this video. I have a Chevy 2012 Cruze with the turbocharged engine. It hesitates when I step on the gas. Sometimes, it does not accelerate at all which is real dangerous when I am merging with traffic. I brought it into the dealership. I told them about it but all they said was it needing a new turbocharger and intercooler because it came back with an under boost code. After they replaced it, it still has issues with hesitation, especially when it's hot outside, usually above 80 degrees. It can get to be over 90 or a 100 around here, so I dread merging onto the freeway. After watching this video, I plan on replacing the synthetic oil over 5000 miles and letting the engine warm up 10 seconds, I hope this will solve the issue with the hesitation. The dealer cant seem to solve it. Im no mechanic so I rely on car guys for advice and fixing my car. The car is great, when it doesn't hesitate or have rough idling that shakes the whole car. I'm considering buy a Corolla or Camry after watching your videos about how great Toyotas are.
I drive a 2012 Volvo XC60 with much the same system. I use full synthetic oil and change every 7500 miles. I drive a lot so that's like 2 months haha. I have 176,000 miles and for "poop and laughter" I called up a Volvo specialist to ask them about how long the turbos last. The mechanic said "I've been a Volvo tech for 20 years. I've seen 2." I then called a turbo shop to see how much a hypothetical rebuild would cost. The owner replied "I don't know. Yours would be the first one I've ever seen and won't know till I got it apart". Apparently, Volvo turbos are stronger than others.
The turbos on most Volvo’s are Mitsubishi made. It’s not a common point of failure. Far more likely to hear about transmission or PCV issues. Hope you got your transmission oil changed. My 05 S80 auto crapped out around 160,000 with no changes. It was 16 years old however.
@@Arby631 Mine's made by BorgWarner. Not sure about the old ones. I also have an Aisin TF80SC transmission. With fluid changes every 50k or so, it seems to be holding up well.
@@alexandermartincausey7333 . My auto transmission mechanic changes my Aisin TF80SC every 20,000 kms. I think that it's very cheap insurance seeing that a new tranny would be around $4000
@@Arby631 Looking past how an 05 model got to 16 years old prior to 2020 ;p... "lifetime" ATF is intentional industry stupidity that's come with the industry's move to sealed transmissions. It's bunk that leads to premature AT failure. Sure it's a pain to pay for a complicated change with pricey fluid every 100000km on my 1993 5 series V8s, but not as big a pain as a blown transmission which happened with great regularity in these models on the stock fluid generally between 150000 and 200000 km. On the upside, the reputation means they are cheap to buy, wreckers are well stocked with parts, and they are fantastic candidates for manual conversions.
06 S40 5spd with 212,000 Still my daily driver, minus the headliner falling 😅 Great car! Ended up buying another one but 2010 model.
Scotty is right on point on how to treat a turbo charged car. Great video.
I would also suggest disabling the ignition after oil changes and turning over the engine until you have proper oil pressure. Perhaps 30 seconds. This was in the manual for my Merkur turbo.
Hey, cool. I always wanted a Mercur XR4Ti after the fun I had with my '74 Capri.
Is it: Disconnect the wastegate air control valve so that your boost goes from about 8psi to 27psi?
If it isn’t; don’t. You’ll blow a head gasket. Learned that one the hard way as a kid.
Danger to manifold
I'm surprised that's all you lost there. XD
air control valve?
Hey, someone told me about the wastegate of the turbo. If you adjust it right you get your turbo kick in fast. Is there any danger doing that? My turbo usually kicked in at 2000-2100 rpm, but after driving the thing for about 10 years with 100000 kms on it, it started kicking in at 2500 rpm. So i did that adjustment on the wastegate and its now back on 2000-2100 rpm range. Is it good or bad?
Thanks
Should have bought an evo, boost monster
I’m so happy I’ve been doing this as a habit since getting my car almost 4 years ago, always let it idle until the RPM sinks a little, never going above 2,500rpm until the oil has reached at least near normal operating temps and always drive calmly if I’m stopping soon to let the Turbo cool down, don’t know if it matters for my Supercharger but at least I know my Turbo is being treated well 😁
My experience with supercharged engines is with diesels in the army. Not sure how that translates to civilian vehicles but just trying to floor them early you feel the engine is unhappy. Warmed up and they're fine especially when already driving at speed.
in 1986 I used to be in the boost all the time in my SVO. Had a boost controller and beat 5.0s all the time. That boost uphill felt like being pushed by a big wave.
His wife is happy to know his arms and hands will be too tired to wave all over the place during dinner.
Could you imagine the mess iff he was eating spaghetti .probably hang himself by mistake lol.
LUDO Lmfao!
I own a 2014 Volvo V40 T5 (5 Cylinder Turbo) Cross Country here on the island of Phuket in SW Thailand.
Just pushed through 45,000km after 10yrs of ownership. All servicing done at the Volvo Service Center. Oil & Filter changes every 5,000km (3,000mi) or 6 months. Absolutely love this car…..!!!
Rev up your engines! But wait a few seconds first.
Have been using turbo charged equipment for many years and have always done regular oil changes, let turbos warmup and cool down and have not experienced any failures.
Definitely useful information from a 51-year mechanic. Gonna keep all these in mind and gonna pound it into my head with my 2016 Tucson with the 1.6T.
Absolutely brilliant, comprehensive advice - You covered everything.
You at your very best Scotty !
Rev up ur turbos oh no wait nevermind u'll blow them up🤣🤣🤣🤣
@RJ I figure that puts more strain on your setup too lol
Look at a built engine that has a turbo there fine get a bigger waist gate to let the extra boost escape
@@aundrayperkins9796 oh no then tow it to the scrap heap lol
Do u drive a civic type r, by any chance?
😂😂😂
Have can’t say I fully agree on Turbocharged engines getting better MPG over NA engines. Had an 04’ SRT4 & 12’ Genesis 2.0 both manual with boost gauges. Did a road test from Houston to SA & only ran Vacuum based off the boost gauges & neither of them got better mpg over the same trip with my 15’ Mazda 6 (manual) & 15’ Civic Si (Manual).
Scotty found a synonym for "endless money pit"
"Royal pain in the rear end" 🤣
Love you Scotty!
Replace any journal bearing turbos for a ball bearing unit, replace tube and fin intercoolers for a bar and plate design, replace rubber and plastic charge pipes with silicone and ceramic coated aluminum, and replace all worm clamps with t-bolts. Turbo timers are a good investment as is upgrading your radiator if you plan on running anything over stock boost levels.
A few minutes to start and a few minutes to turn off.... Treat your Turbo like a Baby. You will thank me later.
@-TheManInDboX - waste of money... You know where you are driving, just drive normal for 5 mins before your destination. Most turbos after the early 90s are oil and water cooled, the water recirculates still after you shut it off. my daily 98 wrx, factory turbo, 173000 miles, still makes 12 psi
@@Vvewa zw27k
@-TheManInDboX - ouch! 13K blow up? Head gasket issue or it was the stock turbo..?
@-TheManInDboX - haha yea those Stangs will send you careening to the left , and I've wanted to drive a Hellcat just for the feels. That Subie was a true lemon.
I remember the 1978 Buick turbo cars. A friend had a Regal with the turbo. His parents were told to let it idle for 4-5 minutes before ever turning it off.
They never had an issue
Say it louder for the BRZ/FRS/86 owners that added a turbo kit.
Wait, but I thought the FRS/BRZ cars had enough power from the factory and that it’s just all about the handling for these cars? 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Uh... I think you got it backwards. It’s 86/BRZ/Rip Off FRS.
Hey don’t forget about our Honda’s :p
I got an svo back in ‘86. With a little extra boost that 4 banger was a beast. I wish I had it in me too fix it up.
Thank you Scotty. I have the exact same model and I do do the things you outlined before I watched the video but always good to have them reinforced and available to everyone.
I just got a 2015 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo and have been learning all I can since this is my first turbo vehicle owned. As soon as I can get the money I'm getting an Oil Catch Can installed. Other than a K&N air filter, I haven't found any upgrades that are worth getting that are cheap and easy enough to buy and/or do myself.
Sjon Jones if you live in cold area those cans can freeze which is much worse then not having them.
Big shout out to the RX8 tachometer shot. I knew you loved those rotaries like i do. 👍🏼👍🏼
I’m glad I’ve been doing all these things with my turbo jetta
It’s at 115k miles with a stage one tune and I’ve had no issues
Bought it a year ago
Also another tip. Whether you are driving an AT or manual, be at least 2700-3000rpm before you floor it. Don't accelerate from like 1500rpm, you are flooding your engine and the turbo builds the boost much slower from slower rpm and you could end up with detonation from unburned fuel and there goes your entire engine and say goodbye to your car.
Also if you are buying a turbocharged car, it requires much more TLC than an naturally aspirated. You have to keep an eye on everything and you have to change spark plugs much more frequently and be mindful what kind of fuel you are putting in. All require top-tier gas, Exxon, Shell, Sunaco, etc. Walmart's brandless fuel, Sam's Club etc.. or something like that will not do any good.
The highest rpm I climb on my diesel engine vehicle is only 3,000. I never go higher than that.
False. Not all turbos require premium.
And costco has is tier 1 gas.
I have. 2022 WRX. The first thing I did to it was fitted an intercooler screen. Ten the mods began with Ernest. I’ve always warmed up he engine for least 3 to 5 minutes before driving & 1 or 2 minutes before shutting it down. After 1 year it hasn’t used any oil.
I've got a fusion with the 1.5 turbo and hearing you talk about the extra strain making them last less had me stressed. I think you've helped ease that some so thanks Scotty!
I drove a turbocharged Corvair Spyder well over 100K with absolutely no problems. Was on a 5000 mi oil change schedule. Conventional oil, 1962-1970. It had a side-draft carb.
Love your videos! I can’t wait to be a mechanic 💕
Sounds like you'll be the mechanic I would want
@@hurricane8634 😏
I recently changed the turbocharger in a 2005 Volvo XC90 2.5L. Specifically for this model, change the PCV hose and breather box if it’s never been changed and has over 100k miles. Replacing the turbo is expensive and labor intensive especially for an amateur home mechanic like myself with hand tools. All great tips mentioned. When the turbo goes you will know...ridiculous amount of smoke out the tailpipe and very little power. Had trouble getting up a small hill when mine went.
I use Castrol edge an change it every 5k always warm it up before hard driving I hope my turbo lasts until 190k 🤞🏼
I have a 2016 Jetta TSI 1.4L S model. It has a 5 speed Manual and runs great. I’m glad to say I abide by these rules. Also, I’ve made 46.3 miles per gallon on the interstate and average 33mpg on the back roads.
Ive been driving my subaru wrx hard for 120k miles and the turbo and engine are working flawlessly still. But everything he said in this video i already do.
Same here, 128k miles on a Mazdaspeed 3 and somehow turbo didn't give up on me yet. I had some small parts to fix here and there but it was mostly a 50-100$ jobs overall.
Subaru makes the best turbo ans have been making them over 30 years its all these other companies that are using turbos that will have issues
2015 on Subaru turbos are reliable
All good tips. Speaking my language. I have 2 90s twin turbo cars..I love. They run great and I follow all the steps to maintain. But not looking forward to anything breaking some day. Fingers crossed.
I remember when I tried telling a "friend" that he should let the car idle for a minute before turning the engine off whenever he reached his destination. He told me I was dumb and he didnt need to. He sold the car later after his turbo blew. He drove the car like a madman wherever he went and had a turbo timer but was too dumb to figure out how to use it
Really Happenings 😂
@@reallyhappenings5597 that woulda been nice
I bought a '79 Mustang once that had a "dead" turbo. (I needed a car right THEN, OK?) The car could not make it up hills unless you shifted all the way to 2nd gear. Car was nearly 20 years old at the time, so I knew what I was getting. Talk about adventures in emergency repairs!
Wait Scotty going against his own word? I’m gonna act like I didn’t hear that😂 Rev Up Your Engines!!!!
*after 30-60 sec.
(Gotta read the fine print.)
@@texasbeast239 I reckon but when I turn on my car and hear Scotty yelling at me to rev up my engine I don't have much of a choice
@@LivingInFloridaPanhandle - I hear ya.
"But Scotty said so!"
Texas BEAST No, not until it has reached operating temperature. About 2-3 miles
@@sebastianp8211 - Ah, gracias. I'll never own a turbo so I didn't really pay close attention either.
Good info Scotty but I knew all this 30 years ago when I had my Mazda 323GT turbo. Never had a single problem with it. Drive a turbo car gently until it's warmed up then go full blast. Drive it gently again before shutting it off. This is good practice for all cars anyway.
I just bought a turbo charged car... Good to know!!! Thanks brotha :)
It's all about goid lubrication and heat management, might consider adding extra oil cooling
Warm up and lubrication. Like with everything else in life?
They are fun! Have a 2002 subura wrx just hit 225,000. Doing everything scotty just listed in the video. Turbochargers are a blast just be responsible.
50 likes, 6 views. ?? Spool up those turbos...😂😂😂
Around two decades of youtube and people still don't understand that likes refresh more frequently than views.
Revs up: stuuuu stutuututu
@Andrew Woodford Thanks bro. I knew also...
@@n3kbrEak3r I don't even understand what THAT means
I would love to own a awd Volvo but I don't know when the last good year was. Robert DIY made me want one.
Another useful automotive tips. Thanks Mr. Scotty! 😃👌
Brilliant as ever ! I have a Saab aero convertible with 2.0 turbo engine petrol
Religiously change oil every 5k
Fully synthetic
Coolant every three years
Let car idle for thirty seconds before turning off
Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd always install a catch can into the pcv system, so that excess oil does not get inside the intercooler pipes!
you cant do that on new cars anymore as most of the pcv system including valve are integrated into the intake manifold!.
@@marcelcostache2504 Oh really ? Do you have an example ? I have a 2012 EVO X with the catch can, and it really makes a difference!
@@Tiagotaf chevy cruze 1.4 turbo, the new honda 1.5 turbo. the 1.4 turbo in fiats. and many many modern engines have the pcv valve integrated into the intake manifold or even in the valve cover!.
@@Tiagotaf i had a catch can on my 91 eagle talon best investment ever.
You can always just drill and tap the valve cover.
I got my first turbo car about 22 months ago, and while I still don't like the lag and spool time, the need to be careful about cooling it down, not being able to prod it below 3k RPM for fear of oil-starving the turbo, and the terrible fuel economy...
I admit it's a rush when the thing wakes up at 4000 RPM.
Wish they still made large displacement manual cars as practical as a Subie.
Thanks for this, Scotty. Recently purchased a Subaru Ascent and it has a 4 cylinder turbo and I was wondering how to get the most out of it since I’ve never had a turbo car before.
Replace your turbo lines with silicone hoses and inspect them at every service. Newer turbos are coolant and oil cooled, just restart your engine if you ever stall your engine after driving it hard, let it cool down for about a minute or you can run the aircon on hot for about a minute which will switch on the electric cooling fans.
My man Scotty has good taste in oil. Valvoline full synthetic is the way to go.
Purple Nurple
Olive oil tastes better and not as toxic
Laughs in liquimolly
My VW's turbo continues to have oil/and or coolant pumped through it after the car is turned off in warmer weather and if you run it hard. It’ll run for a few minutes and you can hear the fan running. When we first got the car we didn’t know what was happening. It sounded like it was still running. It is a good safety feature for the turbo.
Scotty is the type of guy still using Window XP.
Isn't that the latest and greatest version?!😀
Haha, one of the better of Windows.
I wish I still was lol
Yep. He's still using WinXP because he warms it up for five minutes before he touches the mouse.
As a tech of over 20 years worked on tons of ecoboost engines I agree 100 percent with what scotty said about turbo motors.
I’ve watch many of your videos and have
Come to the conclusion you may have
Missed your calling. You should of been
A conductor for some huge orchestra.
I just bought a 2006 s40 T5, glad you made a video about this
All solid advice for people who dont know. Nice vid, Scotty!
Thanks for the upload mate. I'm considering a turbo 4 and this helped a lot. I like the part about driving conservatively. I do that. I've got 161K (almost 100,000 miles) on my car that I've owned since new and have not replaced the brake pads. Note. Here in Australia, we have to pass a roadworthy test every year including a calibrated emergency brake test. It passed about 2 weeks ago.
Nah that's wild. Emergency brakes are one thing but I'd assume your brakes had to be replaced. Cause braking is friction...your pads will wear down, so unless you never break I'm kinda surprised. You ever wonder if they've changed your pads and made you pay without realizing it?
@@jakecoyne3919Yeah nah, servicing would always be the same price as per the new car at the time. Registration checks every year do a brake test and they always passed. I knew the mechanic quite well and he looked at the pads and they were still good, Sold the car now so I'll never know how much longer they lasted. Also, I'm one of those drivers that is always scanning well ahead so when I do brake, it's usually only light pressure.
@@herc_ules_therealone wow, that's crazy. I have to do them often enough cause I live in one of the worst traffic spots in the USA so I unfortunately have to ride my brakes cause our transit system is awful and everyone has a car
Scotty's I live in Dallas and would love to come to Houston to visit you maybe go get something to eat or just hang out what you think
Thanks for the information I will theoretically work on a project car and somehow install a turbo kit when I have the money for it.
Rev up your naturally aspirated engines!!!
Love my turbo-diesel Colorado. I use Penzoil 100% synthetic and it gets great mpgs
Thanks for the advice Scotty! As always very good words of wisdom from you.
One more usefull piece of info is the turbocharger's duty cycle.
In ordinary cars, they don't make the turbos with high duty cycle, so as Skotty says, the power is there when you need it, but it's not designed to work on full power for a long period of time. You got to let it rest a bit.
Scotty we are waiting on a 3sgte or 2zzge swap for the celica
I vote 5sgte with forged rods/pistons... 500+whp no prob. Go big or go home lol
FiveTwoMoto lol scotty would not approve 500hp he'll be ok with 300hp
4age or 4agze swap is much more practical.
@Yul Strokheet Al-Wauch Scotty is a old guy a 2zzge or a 4age is good for him
boy do I love your channel ....enjoy every and each one....and so many I haven't yet checked...
Hey scotty, someone told me about the wastegate of the turbo. If you adjust it right you get your turbo kick in fast. Is there any danger doing that? My turbo usually kicked in at 2000-2100 rpm, but after driving the thing for about 10 years with 100000 kms on it, it started kicking in at 2500 rpm. So i did that adjustment on the wastegate and its now back on 2000-2100 rpm range. Is it good or bad?
Thanks
The fuel economy thing is very true. Usually I drive pretty normal, but after going through 17 miles of road in the mountains, I'm almost out of gas. Hard downshifts and acceleration make ur car WORK
The EcoBoost should be called Eco/Boost because you can only have one at once. My 2011 F150 with 160k miles gets 12mpgs I love it though.
One time I reset the fuel use guage, and floored my 2 L turbo to see what would happen. At full throttle, it worked out to 3 mpg. It was pretty quick too. Driving carefully, I can get over 35 mpg. Not too bad for an SUV that can tow my boat.
TOXICxMETALx98 something's wrong with yours. My 2018 Expedition gets 19mpg combined. I usually drive 70-75 mph highway.
Was considering a turbo 4-cyl. Thanks for saving me the trouble.
???
*Spool up your turbos!!*
I recommend installing a boost gauge and an oil temp gauge if you car doesn't already have them
Hi Scotty! This is my first question: I'm a new driver. I heard that when stopping at a red light for a long time, you should put your automatic transmission from D to N to reduce grind from the engines. I've also seen my father put it to P while waiting for a long time at a red light. Online forums say to leave it in D for safety's sake, and not to wear out the transmission clutches. As a mechanic, which practice is the best? THANKS!
Awesome Thanks Scotty! Needed this video! My fusion is my first turbocharged car. I don't plan on replacing the turbo until I make the car my weekend toy
Do this for a Superchargers
What you're saying about giving the engine a few seconds to establish oil circulation and giving it a few miles to warm up before pushing things is sound advise regardless of whether the engine is turbocharged or not.
Similar protocols to reciprocating engines in general aviation!
Make 'em last...
I have a 97 f350 7.3 powerstroke. I like to let it warmup a bit. I let it cool down a bit especially when i pull my 13k trl. I do pretty much all heavy accelerations and i get about 12.5 empty period. I can also baby it and get 12.5 so let that coal roll. The trk drops to 8.3 when im towing my trl. I also have added a 5 inch exhaust on trk and did a napa 6637 air filter mod and ive doubled my boost over choky stock intake n exhausting
I like to roll up the fat Woolford and get all schmoked up while watching Scotty Kilmers videos.
Valuable information! My partner recently gave me his volvo xc70 t6 and now I know a bit more about turbo engines and how to maintain them better.
Fun fact: Scotty’s Garage is actually a black hole 🕳 , thats why there’s so much stuff there 🔧🔩⚙️⛓🛠 😂
Great piece of advice by a wise mechanic