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I try and try to tell the auto-stop/auto-start fanboys how bad the engine switching on and off is not only on the turbocharger but other engine parts as well, they still think saving that half gallon of gas a year is worth the destruction of their engines.
There are a lot of myths and misinformation about this. The cars that have these systems cater for the start/stop with more robust design or a spare starter. The engine is never cold and oil never drains back. The feature is disabled if the battery is losing charge etc. so as not to wear out your battery life as well. This isn't a plug for start stop feature but it would be foolish to think that they would have this in a vehicle without catering for it in some way.
When Honda debuted their 10th gen Civic back in 2016, it included a turbo for the first time on their production line vehicles. People warned me that I would never get more than 60k miles out of that small turbo. My 2018 Civic EXT, with the tiny 1.5 liter, GDI, turbo currently has 138,300 trouble-free miles averaging 35.4 mpg. I rarely take short trips. I drive about 60% highway. I have never redlined. In fact, I rarely exceed 4K rpm. I always change the oil/filter early...between 4,000-4,800 mile intervals using full synthetic 0W-20. That’s roughly with 40% oil life left.
Idling up to 5 minutes after highway driving is excessive. One minute will do the job. Change your oil more often (not faster). You can drive in the cold ..... simply drive slower for a while to be sure your engine is up to operational temperature. That's the beauty of synthetic oil. Use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Not what some RUclips guy tells you to use.
My 2017 Mazda CX-9 2.5 L turbo is run on a 10k mile oil change with changing filter every 5k , using Mobil 1 5 W 30 high mileage guarantee to 10 k and used 20k , I had oil tested at a oil analysis laboratory and report stated i could go safely another couple thousand miles, my wife dont listen to any warm-up or shut-off recommendations and car has a 123 k on it and runs perfectly so far. A good oil and maintenance program is a key to longevity.
Oil pan heaters are even better! Circulating warm oil is better than cold oil with a warm spot on the block. That being said a block heater is definitely better than nothing.
@@omakis965 In a round about way the block heater does heat the oil as it’s flowing through the motor, yes. However If we heat the oil directly we are gaining the addition of the oil already flowing better as the viscosity is lower. This will help keep the “cold start” wear lower and as we are circulating warm oil through the entire engine the lubricating properties are more effective overall. Block heaters are definitely a good alternative though. If you have a choice get an oil heater but if your vehicle came equipped with a block heater that is absolutely better than nothing. The difference from the block heater to the oil heater aren’t that dramatic overall but think about what oil is meant to do and how it’s made. It wants to be warm and flowing well so the quicker that can happen the happier the engine will be! Happy motoring my friend!
that’s why we have block heaters and what not installed in our cars in Finland, I have heater that most likely radiates heat against block but more importantly is attached to oilpan/near oilpan so my 0W30 oil runs right at the start like in summer
I have always left my engine idle on my turbocharged diesel before I shut it off. Not three minutes but always at least a minute. As far as oil changes i usually change mine at around 5k.
Thanks for the valuable tips. Especially in Winter, when using the car, I use to make various errands at once, so that I don’t need to heat up the engine for each and every little trip. Just the warm up of an engine at freezing temperatures (lower than 5C) has its toll not only on wear and tear but also on fuel consumption and environment.
With most modern cars being made with a turbo not driving when it’s cold is unrealistic. Just warm up the oil by sitting idle for a couple of minutes at your point of departure while it warms up and pumps the oil.
@@mj8495 A turbo spins no matter what when the engine is on. Exhaust is flowing and thus imparting force onto the impeller and turning the compressor shaft. So the bearings are spinning even at idle power.
I always let my car sit and idle for a few minutes it never hurts anything it's one of the many reasons why race car drivers do it! Let's everything warm up evenly
True that. Excellent information for turbo owners. Very good video nice touch showing and pointing to the turbo parts good clear voice and no crappy music in the background. Excellent. People read your manual that came with the vehicle. The engineers built the vehicle and that is its bible. It will say on your oil filler cap which weight oil to use.
I disagree with using lighter oil here in Florida. My custom turbo kit creates excessive heat. Thinner oil breaks down quicker and does nothing. If your oil looks black when you check it then it's time to change it. Some oils may say 5000 miles or 10000 miles and this will not hold up. My 500 horsepower Turbonetics turbo has lasted 10 years and I'm upgrading to a new complete kit by Precision Turbo. For me I went with a thicker heavier oil and oil cooler. After a thousand miles even with the best oil I use which is royal purple I could tell it was already breaking down and I don't drive hard. A lot of cars that come with turbos are very small turbos that don't produce a lot of power and the car companies only give you what the car needs. I'm sticking with what works for me and I have 220,000 miles on my car with 100,000 miles on my old turbo.
Think about it, most cars doing 70mph of 120 KMPH on M way are only using between 1600 and 3000 rpm , so when you pull onto slip road going much slower drive in car park look for space, you done a couple of minutes, diesel engines run much cooler than petrol, but another 30 seconds after that is fine, many cars now have electric water pumps and water cooled turbos, so they still get cooling after you switch off, in EU countries.
He is talking about normal turbos which use oil to cool only. But even with the Ecoboost motor it's a good idea to allow an idle time for a minute before shutoff if you have been hard on the motor.
I hear things like this about large trucks too, no need to let it run to cool things down any more, then i always ask myself how long the manufacturer warranty lasts. So far i've covered nearly 4 million miles, mainly in turbocharged trucks but also my own petrol and Diesel turbocharged cars/4x4s, have always allowed the engines a warm up and cool down period and in my own vehicles frequent servicing, result not 1 turbocharger failure over those many years and miles.
We have many days when our area is around -30 to -40. I think that it is okay to drive a turbo in these temperatures if I am parked in a heated garage.
Great video and information. Thinner oil makes sense. I am wondering if something like Lucas Oil or a special oil additive woud add extra protection or if it might destroy the turbo.
Proper warm up and cool down is the most important along with regular oil changes. Don't over rev them and inspect for oil leaks. Service immediately if you hear abnormal noises. Bearing and seal failure are not uncommon with them. Broken impellers are rare, but pieces will damage your engine, intercooler and catalytic converter.
Good video but I'm not sure that the engine oil would be thicker in the winter right after startup since pretty much all modern turbos use synthetic oil.
Have to disagree with several points. If you use a lighter/thinner oil, especially with no oil cooler, you will have an increased risk of having the oil breakdown or lose its viscosity as it surpasses the operating temperature high enough. You risk things like spun bearings. A thinner oil with a low winter rating like a 0w or 5w is more important in the winter. Those winter ratings are fine for negative temperatures. The oil circulation in near immediately, not 10 to 30 seconds. The oil can bypass the filter too if need be so it's not an obstacle. A xW-30 hot rating should be the minimum in my opinion but definitely change the oil soon, no problem and I agree there however it should be every 5K kilometers at a minimum. I do mine every 3 months or 3K kilometers. Whichever comes first. Turbocharged 2013 86 for reference, with multiple drift/track days. A pure daily car can do 5K oil changes fine. Multiple short trips without getting to operating temperature is definitely bad.
Yo my turbo subaru calls for oil changes at 2500 miles. Oil catch can is essential for older subarus too. Adding a oil pan heater for winter this year.
Yes, im doing 3000 mile changes on my GDI TURBO car. Even so, the oil is starting to get quite dark, and smells of gas, though there is no increase on the dipstick.
I knew a diesel mechanic about fifty years ago that would light food warming sterno cans and put them under the oil pan of Diesel engines to thin the oil on very freezing days. Weird thing but it got the engines started. Mercedes said you could add some kerosene to thin the diesel fuel in winter. All different now. They have chemicals and better fuel to add so fuel doesn’t gel.
Most of my trips are less than 5 minutes, It would kill the turbocharger. Plus Im in a cold climat.Thinking of getting the the Mazda cx-90/70 but plan to get rid of it before the power train warranty expires.
Great video! I'm on my 2nd small turbo car my Escape has 120k and my new Trax only 7k . I can really feel the difference if I prestart the car in the morning. I remote start in driveway while I'm getting ready. If I don't all the fluids are thick. Thanks!
If they say 5w 40 going to 0w 30 is not good for high rpm or track use..use a good synthetic change it at 5k miles..idle it after hard runs and dont rev it till engine oil temp hits half way which takes 15 min
The cool down process. Just ease off the gas for the last few minutes of your drive and keep the RPMs low. Then just park the car and idle for about a minute.
I'm not warming up my car's engine for 15-20 minutes each time I want to go somewhere. That's just ridiculous. I wait 1-2 before and after I turn off the engine unless is below 20F then I'll let it warm up for a few more minutes.
So basically don't ever drive your car like a normal person ever. Walk to where your going in the winter, coast until your at your destination, talk nice to it everyday and read it bedtimes stories, etc....
Right? Just enjoy it and fucking swap the turbo when it blows. Life is too short to sit their idling for 5 minutes like a nerd. Most factory turbocharged cars have a coolant line going to it anyways
Great video - lots of good information - agree on all points. Additionally my 2 cents regarding OIL. USE THE BEST ON EARTH and change every 3000 miles - Old School Rule regardless of ANYONE's opinion - EVERY 3000 MILES PERIOD. And Best Oil on Earth? Current champion with NO competition: AMSOIL Signature Series - AND, use AMSOIL filters which have the lowest micron filtration - Keep It Simple. If you care about your vehicle, AND you want to have the longest most reliable engine life.
Using a block heater would be the answer, leave it on all night before you drive and that should solve the problem with cold starts on a turbocharged car engine.
@@h1tnrun339 Bro its so cold in Saskatchewan we made the mistake of parking our railgrinder in Watrous one night even though we left all our canons running with like a tap stream amount of water all 4 of our water lines running the length of the train froze solid and burst every metal straight section. Think it hit -46 that night plus windchill down to -60+
I too have a ‘17 Sonata 2.0l Turbo. I use regular 87octne fuel. However I use either Castrol, Mobile 1, Pennzoil, or Quaker State 5w-40 Euro blend oils. Secondly I change oil and filter every 5,000mi per Hyundai and Kia recommendation. At 107,000mi I get ZERO oil consumption and bore scoping the engine reveals little carbonization of the valves or pistons.(my aircraft mechanic let me use his bore scope!). With an aircraft engine, 2-5minutes is necessary, however automobile engines are water cooled and the turbos run MUCH cooler. I only idle mine if I’ve recently (5min or less) abruptly accelerated.
Dont cheap out and pump the lowest octane fuel at the gas station, use higher octane. Install an aftermarket turbo timer, engine will keep running even without the key.
Definitely! I operate air cooled aircraft engines with turbo chargers. They operate much hotter than automobile water cooled turbo engines. They have engine coolant lines to intercoolers and turbo chargers to keep them cool.
How does auto start/stop affect turbo wear. I have a theory that it is not good. Mercedes Benz calls this ECO and I plan to de-activate it on my E-550 Cabriolet.
Star stops systems are not good for any engine. Just puts more wear/tear on the engine, starter, etc. Just turn it off, it's not worth the gamble for a tiny tiny bit better gas mpg
I agree with you, my own cars are too old for such trinkets but i'd be looking to have autostop/start permanently programmed out when we have to buy a car new enough that has this feature.
I have an MK7 VW GTI . On the manual there’s two permitted engine oil spec for petrol . VW50400 and VW 50200. I went to VW and they said I. Should buy the SAE 0W-30 which is for the VW 50400/50700 high performance engine oil. Is it advisable to use 0W-30 over the VW 50200? My car is a petrol of coz .
I don’t know about stock but what I heard is that u should be using a thicker oil especially because of the heat that’s produced. Because this causes the oil to get thinner as it gets hot and that can cause your engine or turbo to start leaking.
I think journal bearings might be slightly different, but I agree every where I’ve read was slightly thicker oil Mind you for winter 0w is probably the way to go
The 2nd number is for lubricating while hot. The first number is lubrication while cold. 0w is good for turbos especially if you have all seasons. If you want performance protection "I've heard" you can up the second number
In the East Coast we get bad snow day; some of us have to go to work, and don’t have the luxury of getting an UBER. Would running the engine in those days for like 15 minutes is ok? Also, if I let the engine run every time I drive for 5 minutes, is that ok?
My car is a daily driver....so what if it is cold? The whole point of a car for most of us is to get to work...especially when it is cold and snowy out 😂
Always good practice...just wait until you reach normal operating temperature before dipping into the throttle and engaging turbo. Remember it is engine RPM and not vehicle speed that matters 😊
Unless you have a Porsche or another high performance car you don’t run the bag off of your small turbocharged 1.4-2.5 litre car. The turbo is not for performance, it is to give a smaller more economical engine the same hp and torque numbers as a 3.5 litre + engine . It’s for economy not for running up to the red line all the time.
My wife was from Minnesota and I learned a few things from skiing too. Have an insulated garage maybe even heated. Use a heated engine blanket or oil heater overnight. Have a beater car for winter. Have a really good battery and alternator. Carry blankets, candles,food and water for if you get stranded. Carry a shovel,chains,yank strap,flares,kitty litter,come along pully winch and snow anchors so you don't get stuck easy. Strips of chain link fence is supposed to be good but floor mats can be used for traction. I think you must chain all four wheels on AWD or risk differential damage. People leave their cars running and unattended while shopping and hanging out in bars. many places have drive thru windows. Snow tires with studs if legal and good wipers and defroster. Flat is easy,any hill is serious.
Even when my car was sitting at 20 degrees Fahrenheit, my car pumps oil immediately to the turbocharger id say around less than 2 seconds 10 seconds is a very long time for a car to not be pumping oil that would mean the engine bearings also arent getting oil either pleass dont misinform people and dont run water oil ( 0w-20 or 30 unless ur car asks for it... if ur engine isnt designed to run on lower weight oil it will ruin ur engine )
Idk about that.. my truck needs 15 quarts every oil change, about $150 for ok quality oil. At 3k intervals, that would be $6000 (for oil only) at 120k miles or $12,000 at 240k. 🤔 I can replace the engine for half that amount. I think an oil analysis is a better recommendation than a firm 3k or sooner because oil (especially in the long run) is not cheaper than an engine.
The turbo only spins when the engine is running. It's the energy from the exhaust that causes this. If the engine is off, the turbo won't be spinning. Some cars do have systems that once you take the key out of the ignition the engine will continue to run for a given amount of time to give the turbo plenty of time to cool.
If it's allowed for that area (it should be written in the owner's manual, then yes). Car manufacturers recommend different viscosities depending on the region you live in.
@@99VehiclesTV My car is only advised to use 0 20. Oil. In the summer here it averages 115 to occasionally 126 deg f. Can imagine that a 0 20 oil id doing much good, especially considering fuel dilution. However, its still running fine, and sounds fine......
That’s ridiculous I live in uk and my routine means I often have to drive in cold temperatures and your suggesting use taxi so what’s the point of owning a car??
If u don’t do ur own maintenance or even change the oil correctly it won’t last. Yet alone if ur willing to spend more money cuz it’s more expensive to maintain it
OH MY GOD! I 'bout fell back in my chair. Their was an Ashley ad that featured a White American Couple (the stores' main customer demographic). No blacks. No race mixing. OH MY GOD! Is America returning to sanity!
So I have a 2021 acura rdx sh-awd from a cold start what is responsible time 30 secs or 10 mins? I find idling 10 mins before every start kills the mpg but if it is good for the turbo it's ok but I don't want to over do it if I don't have to.
If you're referring to warming up the engine oil before you drive, you don't need to. You would just be wasting gas. Just keep the revs low and don't boost until your oil is up to operating temperature. Don't forget that oil takes longer to get up to operating temp than coolant. So if you don't have an oil temp gauge, wait at least 10 minutes after the coolant is up to temp before driving hard.
Letting ur car warm up doesn't kill gas mileage sorry to break it to you and let ur car sit for 5 min warming up who ever tells u to stay outta boost while ur warming ur car up and driving is stupid... u would be grandma driving it.. even when I'm barely on the pedal I still make a few psi of boost being easy on it...
6-7K MILE OIL CHANGES ON A TURBO CHARGED?? Are you crazy!??? ANY modern day GDI engine WITHOUT a turbo even that’s pushing it (unless majority highway driving) for long term healthy life 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
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WILL LAQUER THINNER, ( WHICH MANY PEOPLE ARE USING IN GAS TANK ), HARM A TURBO ???
I try and try to tell the auto-stop/auto-start fanboys how bad the engine switching on and off is not only on the turbocharger but other engine parts as well, they still think saving that half gallon of gas a year is worth the destruction of their engines.
Those are idiotic. They should have never started installing those in new cars.
No to mention, you would think it would kill the lifespan of the starter as much as it engaged so often
@@chrisblackburn3354they usually have a separate starter motor specifically for the start/stop so it doesn’t burn out the normal one
@@specialmexican5361 Won't another part you have to replace kill any fue savings you might have?
There are a lot of myths and misinformation about this. The cars that have these systems cater for the start/stop with more robust design or a spare starter. The engine is never cold and oil never drains back. The feature is disabled if the battery is losing charge etc. so as not to wear out your battery life as well. This isn't a plug for start stop feature but it would be foolish to think that they would have this in a vehicle without catering for it in some way.
When Honda debuted their 10th gen Civic back in 2016, it included a turbo for the first time on their production line vehicles. People warned me that I would never get more than 60k miles out of that small turbo.
My 2018 Civic EXT, with the tiny 1.5 liter, GDI, turbo currently has 138,300 trouble-free miles averaging 35.4 mpg. I rarely take short trips. I drive about 60% highway. I have never redlined. In fact, I rarely exceed 4K rpm. I always change the oil/filter early...between 4,000-4,800 mile intervals using full synthetic 0W-20. That’s roughly with 40% oil life left.
I have a Cadillac with a turbo and just change the oil when needed. I now have about 120,000 miles on it and the turbo is still smooth
I have a cadillac with 2 turbos so far so good
That's exactly what you should be doing. Good job on those oil changes! Turbo motors are dirty and need those frequent oil changes.
Good advice here,the car I drive has had 19 services ,every 10000 miles,original turbo
Idling up to 5 minutes after highway driving is excessive. One minute will do the job. Change your oil more often (not faster). You can drive in the cold ..... simply drive slower for a while to be sure your engine is up to operational temperature. That's the beauty of synthetic oil. Use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Not what some RUclips guy tells you to use.
Ya as if Im going to sit in my car for 5 min and not drive my car when it's cold. I live in Canada for crying out loud lol
My 2017 Mazda CX-9 2.5 L turbo is run on a 10k mile oil change with changing filter every 5k , using Mobil 1 5 W 30 high mileage guarantee to 10 k and used 20k , I had oil tested at a oil analysis laboratory and report stated i could go safely another couple thousand miles, my wife dont listen to any warm-up or shut-off recommendations and car has a 123 k on it and runs perfectly so far. A good oil and maintenance program is a key to longevity.
At 123k miles with 10k oci and your weird oil filter 5k thing, your vehicle is on its last leg, while my GX460 with 100k is just getting broken in.
For those living in cold parts. Install yourselves a block heater. This way the oil and fluids will be warmer on those cold morning starts
Oil pan heaters are even better! Circulating warm oil is better than cold oil with a warm spot on the block. That being said a block heater is definitely better than nothing.
@@ivancliff2514 yo. But doesn’t the block heater also heat the oil as well?
@@omakis965 In a round about way the block heater does heat the oil as it’s flowing through the motor, yes. However If we heat the oil directly we are gaining the addition of the oil already flowing better as the viscosity is lower. This will help keep the “cold start” wear lower and as we are circulating warm oil through the entire engine the lubricating properties are more effective overall. Block heaters are definitely a good alternative though. If you have a choice get an oil heater but if your vehicle came equipped with a block heater that is absolutely better than nothing. The difference from the block heater to the oil heater aren’t that dramatic overall but think about what oil is meant to do and how it’s made. It wants to be warm and flowing well so the quicker that can happen the happier the engine will be! Happy motoring my friend!
@@ivancliff2514 Thank appreciate the info 🤙🍻✌️
that’s why we have block heaters and what not installed in our cars in Finland, I have heater that most likely radiates heat against block but more importantly is attached to oilpan/near oilpan so my 0W30 oil runs right at the start like in summer
I have always left my engine idle on my turbocharged diesel before I shut it off. Not three minutes but always at least a minute. As far as oil changes i usually change mine at around 5k.
Turbochargers on a diesel engine are very reliable.
@@Terry-p7tI don’t know why but I always enjoyed the sound of a diesel. Go o RUclips and look up Mercedesource. I think you will enjoy Kent.
Thanks for the valuable tips.
Especially in Winter, when using the car, I use to make various errands at once, so that I don’t need to heat up the engine for each and every little trip. Just the warm up of an engine at freezing temperatures (lower than 5C) has its toll not only on wear and tear but also on fuel consumption and environment.
Use a block heater, just have a timer set 3 hours before use
Top quality advice.
0w over 5w only has better flow below -35 C. You are better off with thicker for protection. I would even go with 5w30 over 5w20 or 0w20.
With most modern cars being made with a turbo not driving when it’s cold is unrealistic. Just warm up the oil by sitting idle for a couple of minutes at your point of departure while it warms up and pumps the oil.
Or...drive it and just don't engage the turbo until it warms up 😊
@@mj8495 A turbo spins no matter what when the engine is on. Exhaust is flowing and thus imparting force onto the impeller and turning the compressor shaft. So the bearings are spinning even at idle power.
I always let my car sit and idle for a few minutes it never hurts anything it's one of the many reasons why race car drivers do it! Let's everything warm up evenly
True that. Excellent information for turbo owners. Very good video nice touch showing and pointing to the turbo parts good clear voice and no crappy music in the background. Excellent. People read your manual that came with the vehicle. The engineers built the vehicle and that is its bible. It will say on your oil filler cap which weight oil to use.
I disagree with using lighter oil here in Florida. My custom turbo kit creates excessive heat. Thinner oil breaks down quicker and does nothing. If your oil looks black when you check it then it's time to change it. Some oils may say 5000 miles or 10000 miles and this will not hold up. My 500 horsepower Turbonetics turbo has lasted 10 years and I'm upgrading to a new complete kit by Precision Turbo. For me I went with a thicker heavier oil and oil cooler. After a thousand miles even with the best oil I use which is royal purple I could tell it was already breaking down and I don't drive hard. A lot of cars that come with turbos are very small turbos that don't produce a lot of power and the car companies only give you what the car needs. I'm sticking with what works for me and I have 220,000 miles on my car with 100,000 miles on my old turbo.
Think about it, most cars doing 70mph of 120 KMPH on M way are only using between 1600 and 3000 rpm , so when you pull onto slip road going much slower drive in car park look for space, you done a couple of minutes, diesel engines run much cooler than petrol, but another 30 seconds after that is fine, many cars now have electric water pumps and water cooled turbos, so they still get cooling after you switch off, in EU countries.
return of the king
Excellent video
2:15 what about water cooled turbos like the ones paired with Ford's EcoBoost engine? Ford says they don't need to idle before shutting down.
He is talking about normal turbos which use oil to cool only. But even with the Ecoboost motor it's a good idea to allow an idle time for a minute before shutoff if you have been hard on the motor.
Eco boost has a electrical pump that operates even when the vehicle is off
@jayphilbert5845 it does. But still a good idea to idle for an additional 30 seconds to allow oil flow as well.
I hear things like this about large trucks too, no need to let it run to cool things down any more, then i always ask myself how long the manufacturer warranty lasts.
So far i've covered nearly 4 million miles, mainly in turbocharged trucks but also my own petrol and Diesel turbocharged cars/4x4s, have always allowed the engines a warm up and cool down period and in my own vehicles frequent servicing, result not 1 turbocharger failure over those many years and miles.
What about new toyota tundra v6 turbo
We have many days when our area is around -30 to -40. I think that it is okay to drive a turbo in these temperatures if I am parked in a heated garage.
All i needed to hear, Garage during the winter
Great video and information.
Thinner oil makes sense. I am wondering if something like Lucas Oil or a special oil additive woud add extra protection or if it might destroy the turbo.
Thank you for the reminders for turbo charge engine now I always keep in mind about this impt. Things to do.
Proper warm up and cool down is the most important along with regular oil changes. Don't over rev them and inspect for oil leaks. Service immediately if you hear abnormal noises. Bearing and seal failure are not uncommon with them. Broken impellers are rare, but pieces will damage your engine, intercooler and catalytic converter.
Lots of great tips that actually cost you nothing extra……..a no-brainer!
I didn't know you are still posting on your "original channel"
Keep up the good work!
Good video but I'm not sure that the engine oil would be thicker in the winter right after startup since pretty much all modern turbos use synthetic oil.
Do you recommend warming up your turbo engine when cold ?
Just idling, then driving off slowly.
Driving slowly is the key until,it fully warmed up...don't engage the turbo until you reach normal operating temp 😊
Thanks for your time !@@mj8495
you can add a external electric oil pump switched by dash run 15 sec before start also run 1min after stop engine !
Most new Turbo cars made since the mid-2000's already come from the factory with a 60-90 second after-shutdown oil pump.
Have to disagree with several points. If you use a lighter/thinner oil, especially with no oil cooler, you will have an increased risk of having the oil breakdown or lose its viscosity as it surpasses the operating temperature high enough. You risk things like spun bearings. A thinner oil with a low winter rating like a 0w or 5w is more important in the winter. Those winter ratings are fine for negative temperatures. The oil circulation in near immediately, not 10 to 30 seconds. The oil can bypass the filter too if need be so it's not an obstacle.
A xW-30 hot rating should be the minimum in my opinion but definitely change the oil soon, no problem and I agree there however it should be every 5K kilometers at a minimum. I do mine every 3 months or 3K kilometers. Whichever comes first. Turbocharged 2013 86 for reference, with multiple drift/track days. A pure daily car can do 5K oil changes fine.
Multiple short trips without getting to operating temperature is definitely bad.
An oil filter with a non-return valve can also help.
Yo my turbo subaru calls for oil changes at 2500 miles. Oil catch can is essential for older subarus too. Adding a oil pan heater for winter this year.
Thanks man 🎉🎉🎉
I never go more than 3k before changing the oil and I use full synthetic
Yes, im doing 3000 mile changes on my GDI TURBO car. Even so, the oil is starting to get quite dark, and smells of gas, though there is no increase on the dipstick.
Oil used in Diesel cars always goes dark quite quickly, i change oil around every 3-4000 miles in my Ford Kuga petrol 2.5 5 cylinder volvo engine.
What if I only do 4000 miles per year? Should I change the oil every six months?
Good advice friend.
I knew a diesel mechanic about fifty years ago that would light food warming sterno cans and put them under the oil pan of Diesel engines to thin the oil on very freezing days. Weird thing but it got the engines started. Mercedes said you could add some kerosene to thin the diesel fuel in winter. All different now. They have chemicals and better fuel to add so fuel doesn’t gel.
Thank you this was highly informative
Most of my trips are less than 5 minutes, It would kill the turbocharger. Plus Im in a cold climat.Thinking of getting the the Mazda cx-90/70 but plan to get rid of it before the power train warranty expires.
If I were you, I would get an electric scooter.
I can just see the look on my boss's face when I tell him I can't come in today because it's too cold 😅😂
Great video! I'm on my 2nd small turbo car my Escape has 120k and my new Trax only 7k . I can really feel the difference if I prestart the car in the morning. I remote start in driveway while I'm getting ready. If I don't all the fluids are thick. Thanks!
If they say 5w 40 going to 0w 30 is not good for high rpm or track use..use a good synthetic change it at 5k miles..idle it after hard runs and dont rev it till engine oil temp hits half way which takes 15 min
bro said at the end just dont use your car at all XD that aside thanks for tips got all the information i needed!
Are threre coolers for the turbo?
Thank you for your great advice, much appreciated.
What if you’re doing mostly city driving 50-70 kph? Any advice?
The cool down process. Just ease off the gas for the last few minutes of your drive and keep the RPMs low. Then just park the car and idle for about a minute.
I drive in Colorado where it’s cold; can’t avoid winter
I'm not warming up my car's engine for 15-20 minutes each time I want to go somewhere. That's just ridiculous. I wait 1-2 before and after I turn off the engine unless is below 20F then I'll let it warm up for a few more minutes.
So basically don't ever drive your car like a normal person ever. Walk to where your going in the winter, coast until your at your destination, talk nice to it everyday and read it bedtimes stories, etc....
Right? Just enjoy it and fucking swap the turbo when it blows. Life is too short to sit their idling for 5 minutes like a nerd. Most factory turbocharged cars have a coolant line going to it anyways
It’s like dealing with a typical high maintenance female😂
Great video - lots of good information - agree on all points. Additionally my 2 cents regarding OIL. USE THE BEST ON EARTH and change every 3000 miles - Old School Rule regardless of ANYONE's opinion - EVERY 3000 MILES PERIOD. And Best Oil on Earth? Current champion with NO competition: AMSOIL Signature Series - AND, use AMSOIL filters which have the lowest micron filtration - Keep It Simple. If you care about your vehicle, AND you want to have the longest most reliable engine life.
Amsoil the best, I think not
living in canada it gets up to -40 here loool we gotta drive in the cold
Using a block heater would be the answer, leave it on all night before you drive and that should solve the problem with cold starts on a turbocharged car engine.
@@Barrie562 we have them in every parking lot in Saskatchewan.
@@h1tnrun339 Bro its so cold in Saskatchewan we made the mistake of parking our railgrinder in Watrous one night even though we left all our canons running with like a tap stream amount of water all 4 of our water lines running the length of the train froze solid and burst every metal straight section. Think it hit -46 that night plus windchill down to -60+
Thanks for the video. Any DIY maintenance tips to clear any carbons? I have a 2.0 T Hyundai Santa fe
I too have a ‘17 Sonata 2.0l Turbo. I use regular 87octne fuel. However I use either Castrol, Mobile 1, Pennzoil, or Quaker State 5w-40 Euro blend oils. Secondly I change oil and filter every 5,000mi per Hyundai and Kia recommendation. At 107,000mi I get ZERO oil consumption and bore scoping the engine reveals little carbonization of the valves or pistons.(my aircraft mechanic let me use his bore scope!). With an aircraft engine, 2-5minutes is necessary, however automobile engines are water cooled and the turbos run MUCH cooler. I only idle mine if I’ve recently (5min or less) abruptly accelerated.
Thanks I live in the Carribbean!
Dont cheap out and pump the lowest octane fuel at the gas station, use higher octane. Install an aftermarket turbo timer, engine will keep running even without the key.
I have an air cooled engine. Should I let it idle after driving to cool the turbo?
Definitely! I operate air cooled aircraft engines with turbo chargers. They operate much hotter than automobile water cooled turbo engines. They have engine coolant lines to intercoolers and turbo chargers to keep them cool.
How does auto start/stop affect turbo wear. I have a theory that it is not good. Mercedes Benz calls this ECO and I plan to de-activate it on my E-550 Cabriolet.
Star stops systems are not good for any engine. Just puts more wear/tear on the engine, starter, etc. Just turn it off, it's not worth the gamble for a tiny tiny bit better gas mpg
I agree with you, my own cars are too old for such trinkets but i'd be looking to have autostop/start permanently programmed out when we have to buy a car new enough that has this feature.
I have an MK7 VW GTI . On the manual there’s two permitted engine oil spec for petrol . VW50400 and VW 50200. I went to VW and they said I. Should buy the SAE 0W-30 which is for the VW 50400/50700 high performance engine oil. Is it advisable to use 0W-30 over the VW 50200? My car is a petrol of coz .
Been using 0w20 in EA888 engined Octavia VRS 245 during the last 3 years I have owned it. Thats what VW recommend. No issues so far. 🤞
I don’t know about stock but what I heard is that u should be using a thicker oil especially because of the heat that’s produced. Because this causes the oil to get thinner as it gets hot and that can cause your engine or turbo to start leaking.
I think journal bearings might be slightly different, but I agree every where I’ve read was slightly thicker oil
Mind you for winter 0w is probably the way to go
The 2nd number is for lubricating while hot. The first number is lubrication while cold. 0w is good for turbos especially if you have all seasons. If you want performance protection "I've heard" you can up the second number
If you live in a hot desert climate then yes, one grade thicker oil can help. But don't go more than one grade.
@@drudown615yes exactly, W stands for Winter, and the number indicates thickness of the oil , when you cold start your engine. 0w. 5w. 10w.15w.
In the East Coast we get bad snow day; some of us have to go to work, and don’t have the luxury of getting an UBER. Would running the engine in those days for like 15 minutes is ok? Also, if I let the engine run every time I drive for 5 minutes, is that ok?
My car is a daily driver....so what if it is cold? The whole point of a car for most of us is to get to work...especially when it is cold and snowy out 😂
3 minutes before driving and 30sec to a minute with most newer engines. Just use an appropriate oil for the climate and season.
What If U Mash on the gas
What about if I drive slow speed can it destroy the turbo ___
Always good practice...just wait until you reach normal operating temperature before dipping into the throttle and engaging turbo. Remember it is engine RPM and not vehicle speed that matters 😊
Good stuff!
i live in canada i need to drive in the super cold..
Thanks!
Unless you have a Porsche or another high performance car you don’t run the bag off of your small turbocharged 1.4-2.5 litre car. The turbo is not for performance, it is to give a smaller more economical engine the same hp and torque numbers as a 3.5 litre + engine . It’s for economy not for running up to the red line all the time.
and if i live in Sahara ?
So if you want to spare your turbo....don't drive.
😂😂
Not difficult to follow his advice. I follow these guidelines and my venue clocked 20k km without any problems so far
Good 👍 thnx
So what are we Canadians supposed to drive in winter ?? Just stay home till spring 😂
No, move to Southern California like so many Canadians do....lol.we call them Snow birds. Here from October to may, the home for summer.
My wife was from Minnesota and I learned a few things from skiing too.
Have an insulated garage maybe even heated.
Use a heated engine blanket or oil heater overnight.
Have a beater car for winter.
Have a really good battery and alternator.
Carry blankets, candles,food and water for if you get stranded.
Carry a shovel,chains,yank strap,flares,kitty litter,come along pully winch and snow anchors so you don't get stuck easy.
Strips of chain link fence is supposed to be good but floor mats can be used for traction.
I think you must chain all four wheels on AWD or risk differential damage.
People leave their cars running and unattended while shopping and hanging out in bars.
many places have drive thru windows.
Snow tires with studs if legal and good wipers and defroster.
Flat is easy,any hill is serious.
he wasn't joking
You guys have sled dogs for winter lol
Even when my car was sitting at 20 degrees Fahrenheit, my car pumps oil immediately to the turbocharger id say around less than 2 seconds 10 seconds is a very long time for a car to not be pumping oil that would mean the engine bearings also arent getting oil either pleass dont misinform people and dont run water oil ( 0w-20 or 30 unless ur car asks for it... if ur engine isnt designed to run on lower weight oil it will ruin ur engine )
Interesting OCI. I change the oil in my turbo and every other of my cars by 3k if not sooner. Oil is cheap engines are not.
Idk about that.. my truck needs 15 quarts every oil change, about $150 for ok quality oil. At 3k intervals, that would be $6000 (for oil only) at 120k miles or $12,000 at 240k. 🤔 I can replace the engine for half that amount. I think an oil analysis is a better recommendation than a firm 3k or sooner because oil (especially in the long run) is not cheaper than an engine.
So don't go from 0 to 60 as fast as possible?
Should you still wait to shut off the engine when your just driving it normally as well or no?
I always idle mine regardless, it won't do any harm
Modern turbo cars dont shut down the turbo when engine is turned off,the turbo will spin for a given amount of time in order to cool down!
The turbo only spins when the engine is running. It's the energy from the exhaust that causes this. If the engine is off, the turbo won't be spinning. Some cars do have systems that once you take the key out of the ignition the engine will continue to run for a given amount of time to give the turbo plenty of time to cool.
change it at every 4000km
Tip 2, its not the turbo but heat sink from engine,
What if i use 15w40 because i live in +40°c and its hot.
If it's allowed for that area (it should be written in the owner's manual, then yes). Car manufacturers recommend different viscosities depending on the region you live in.
@@99VehiclesTV My car is only advised to use 0 20. Oil. In the summer here it averages 115 to occasionally 126 deg f. Can imagine that a 0 20 oil id doing much good, especially considering fuel dilution. However, its still running fine, and sounds fine......
Do not drive the car when it’s -17C……well no work for me during winter as it gets up to -55C windchill including in Canada 😂
That’s ridiculous I live in uk and my routine means I often have to drive in cold temperatures and your suggesting use taxi so what’s the point of owning a car??
Blana !
So, basically, a turbocharged car is not a feasible automobile for anyone….especially people in cold climates
If u don’t do ur own maintenance or even change the oil correctly it won’t last. Yet alone if ur willing to spend more money cuz it’s more expensive to maintain it
Mineral Gas gtl engine oil type can not protection turbo shaft 400 degree C, it's need fill ceramic additive.
Ok
OH
MY
GOD!
I 'bout fell back in my chair. Their was an Ashley ad that featured a White American Couple (the stores' main customer demographic). No blacks. No race mixing. OH MY GOD! Is America returning to sanity!
That cold recommendation is ludicrous. Walk the 20 miles to work? Take an extra couple of hours on the bus or train? Don’t think so.
👍
So I have a 2021 acura rdx sh-awd from a cold start what is responsible time 30 secs or 10 mins? I find idling 10 mins before every start kills the mpg but if it is good for the turbo it's ok but I don't want to over do it if I don't have to.
If you're referring to warming up the engine oil before you drive, you don't need to. You would just be wasting gas. Just keep the revs low and don't boost until your oil is up to operating temperature. Don't forget that oil takes longer to get up to operating temp than coolant. So if you don't have an oil temp gauge, wait at least 10 minutes after the coolant is up to temp before driving hard.
Letting ur car warm up doesn't kill gas mileage sorry to break it to you and let ur car sit for 5 min warming up who ever tells u to stay outta boost while ur warming ur car up and driving is stupid... u would be grandma driving it.. even when I'm barely on the pedal I still make a few psi of boost being easy on it...
My wifes bmw turbo i change oil and filter every 5000km and its dirty
what is the model year?
@@juliuscaesar7715 2013 1 series
Protect your turbo, do not buy a turbo car !!!
lol@this guy omfg
tip#7 drive the vehicle off a cliff with you in it
Indians: weather conditions are different in our country.... this video might not be best for taking tips
My turbo car has a start/stop ....
Change at 4k miles 6k to much
Better have a car without an auto off/on feature. Yes use a Taxi... LOL
All this turbo bashing is overrated. Take a taxi he says. Lol
6-7K MILE OIL CHANGES ON A TURBO CHARGED?? Are you crazy!??? ANY modern day GDI engine WITHOUT a turbo even that’s pushing it (unless majority highway driving) for long term healthy life 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Here's a tip if you want a turbo car. Buy an old Volvo with a turbo.
SORRY, I have minimum standards as to what car I'll drive/own. An OLD VOLVO isn't on the list.
yasss
Ya totally buy a car , but don't drive it in the winter ...take the bus instead.