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Lol I understand, the problem is we need boost at 1400 RPM, we really need to to compounds on the truck to see it's full potential. As is though it doesn't see over 3000 rpm or even 25 psi boost that much, it just has to have low end boost to move and my big turbo swaps do not have enough power down low to take off. We hope to add another turbo on top and benefit from the quick spool of the gtc1549 and then dump all exhaust to a much much bigger turbo

It's probably a good idea, not sure how much I will put into this build though, hopefully doing injectors and tune in the next week or 2

Well this is an f350 radiator, I really dont think it's the issue, but I need to test lower radiator hose temps to confirm

@@TDISwaps the TDI have a outlet for the heater core I'm saying remove it from the heater core and install a extra radiator..

All computer controlled with the variable vane turbos

@@TDISwaps well i have a disco pump what do i need a blowoff valve

@ktmfour1007 no diesels don't have a butterfly valve to make blow off valves work. You just need a turbo with a boost regulated wastegated, like an he200 or gt2052

@@TDISwaps well that sucks lol that would require a exhaust manifold

@ktmfour1007 ya it's like $400-700 for turbo and manifold. That's why I recommend sticking with electronics. By the time you get the pump and the turbo setup you are 2-3x the cost of just paying me to make you a wiring harness 😬. I mean I get having a doomsday rig, I do have a mechanical pump I picked up, but I'm not worrying about that til the end of the world 😂

I should do that really

@@TDISwaps boost in power too could simultaneously spray methanol😄. I think that also will cool it down

@ktmfour1007 ya guys do all kinds of crazy stuff to cool down 😂

The problem is there aren't adapters to mate the 3.0 to all the transmissions like the 1.9. That and the tuning/wiring is much much more complicated

Glad to help sir!

Ha ha check out my playlist on the Jeep, lots of info there. It's a 2001 VW TDI setup for about 200 HP and 300 TQ

Yeah I've had a couple bad ones but under normal driving I'm seeing less than 10° change currently, it's not till I hook up to this trailer and triple the weight that I run into issues.

​@@TDISwaps are you self tuned or who do you tune through?

@GlowBugTDI22 I have all Tekmektronics tuning. I couldn't even keep the truck itself cool with Malone tuning. But I have pretty extreme elevation changes around me so I'm working these engines just normal driving.

@@TDISwaps Ok, I was going through your vids and now see the jeep has the decal. Good tuning AFAIK. Ya, malone runs to much advance, and has rough fueling/boost combo's. Nice things about diesels is they can handle the elevation really well. Especially when tuned for it. Going up hill can add a lot of work on a truck like that though lol.

@GlowBugTDI22 yup, they do amazing just moving a 5500lb truck, I'm probably just asking too much to throw a car and trailer on top of that lol

Actually the 1 ton axles/brakes/10ply tires make this thing very stable towing lol, it's almost identical to a 1 ton standard cab long box really, besides frame strength of course

@@TDISwaps and the frame strength is huge. The difference in towing with my f250 compared to my double wall frame f550 is night and day with the same engine and trans. Towing with an f150 and going to a f250 with the same load and you’ll wonder why anyone would buy a f150 to pull a trailer.

@FarmStrong88 for me it's the fact that this entire truck can be replaced for 1/2 the cost of the engine in my f250 😂

I have the same issues with the 180 thermostat but only when towing I've now tested it at 105° out with AC on and it will not break 200 just the truck itself it's only when I hook a trailer update I think the water pump is lacking

​@@TDISwaps I think I figured out the issue. You are correct the water pump is not moving enough water but not because of its capacity. It is not getting water to move. The lower radiator hose delivers cooled water to the engine. The ALH lower hose is plumbed directly to the back of the thermostat. Meaning the thermostat cools down. I measured the temperature of my upper and lower radiator tanks last night with the engine running ~195. The upper tank at the inlet hose was ~120, the lower tank at the outlet hose was 93 ! That means that the thermostat is getting hit with 93 degree water and closing - or - at least remaining barely open. The thermostat can't fully open until it gets to 180. That means the heat from the engine can only travel to the radiator by conduction - not flow - through the top hose which it can't do a very good job of since it only can only move the water in the engine and what little can make its way past the thermostat. I'm new to the TDIs and until I looked up the coolant flow direction it didn't make sense. Every other engine I have messed with has the thermostat on the top of the engine - not this one. We have TOO MUCH radiator. The manufacturers switched to this scheme for emissions to keep the entire engine running as managably hot as possible. They have temp sensors in the (otherwise small) radiators and control the water temp with multiple or variable speed fans to keep the incoming water near the thermostat temperature. ALL the water then flows effectively. That way the system uses ALL the water to maintain the design temperature. Anyway, I don't have time to engineer the ideal radiator so, I ordered an inline thermostat housing today and will install it in the upper hose and remove the thermostat from the stock location. That way when it opens ALL the water will flow and the temperature should stabilize across the entire coolant system. It can't do that now. I'll probably try to go back to 195 thermostat to shorten the warm-up time since the radiator has plenty of capacity. I'll keep you posted.

@tdah8334 let me know how it works!

Thanks for watching! Only fan is on the radiator, AC condenser is between the intercooler and radiator. All AC components are dodge besides the VW compressor still on the engine. Dodge AC hoses are adapted to the VW compressor and dodge drier. There's a video on the AC setup

@@TDISwaps thanks brother

Yeah I've seen guys at oil coolers and they don't do a whole lot you just got to keep the coolant down and I'm pretty sure my radiator isn't the issue but I'm going to get multiple sensors on it to verify

@TDISwaps ya I think your right. I've got to do some digging on water pumps now I guess.

@306familyfarm haha ya, open the pocketbook for any good ones 😬

These are high revving diesels they don't flow enough coolant or air at 2000 RPM to move the kind of weight I'm doing climbing elevation like I am. I actually lose MPG under 2500

It's a heck of a huge load for an engine almost the size of my Harley's 🤣🤣🤣

Those things are computer controlled though, from what I read it's not straight forward to just flip a switch to turn them on

Thanks man you too! And thanks for watching

Definitely! Not as much top end but I don't drive it fast anyways

Ya it's probably a start, someday I'd like to build a custom bumper for it

​@@TDISwaps at least it looks good while it waits

@Jeromeeb it's got that going for sure!!

Yes the DAG is much much better than previous transmissions

Ya for sure, I have tried a few things including venting the back side of the hood without seeing much difference, but I need to see what temp the coolant is actually coming out of the lower hose at, if it's dropping temp fine that would prove the water pump isn't enough, but it may not be getting enough flow like you are saying

@@TDISwaps also between the radiator, intercooler, a/c coil, and around the fan, if you haven't, already. All the OEMs have been doing this for several years now because of how much it helps. you can mock it up with cardboard, but I would be shocked if you didn't see an improvement. Even if you don't think it's helping that much, it will make sure you don't end up with intermittent issues like a tailwind, and it won't cost much time/money.

@adamlesandrini312 ya there's a lot of improvements to make for sure!

Anything ovek 5klbs really gonna be working hard

@ktmfour1007 ya it honestly does very well at 6-7k just the truck, even a small trailer behind that is fine. But this is just over the limit for towing hot with the AC on

If you look at the blue filter it's got a hose at the front sucking air from the fender. Intake temps at the engine were only 10-15° hotter than outside temps so it's doing very well that way.

Oh sorry. I see you have cold air intake.

@bobirving6052 no worries haha, I really think the water pump not keeping up is my biggest issue, but this also just might be outside the abilities of a 1900CC go kart engine 😂

The radiator is out of an f350 for the 460, I THINK it's not the issue, but it's hard to say, the water pump is so freaking tiny on these things I gotta believe im over working it, but it's hard to say. Yes tuning for vanes has them max closed until almost full boost lol. Just glad it on the road again!

@@TDISwaps I see I see, yeah I do believe your right about the water pump, could be hard for it to flow all the extra fluid, maybe try to squeeze a radiator hose while it’s running and you can feel how much pressure is in the system, if it’s still squishy while running that could mean weak water pump!! But great video as always keep up the great work!!

@ngelemental2274 thanks man! The pressure definitely increases the hotter it gets, but the water pump just barely flows water into the radiator with the cap off and up to temp, where any V8 holding these kind of power numbers you look in the radiator and it's just churning the water through even with no pressure. But I'm also not an engineer 😂

@@TDISwaps hey man look at this work of art you put together here, I’d say your engineer enough😂

@ngelemental2274 ya I suppose, but I'm mostly just winging it out here 😂😂😂

I use the top of the radiator as the "expansion tank" like factory, with the radiator down a couple inches the overflow never blows off. I have a speed sensor to the VW ECU to make cruise work, and that gives the ultra gauge a speed, and it has a correction factor to make the mph dead on.

So happy!

It's awesome!

We are getting about 18-21 mpg, definitely would do better 60-65 mph, over 70 mph the headwinds are hurting it

@@TDISwaps awesome, thank you

@flux_core_fx thanks for watching!

@@TDISwaps subscribed! If i am moving somewhere with 80mph speed limits, do you think it would be a usable daily? An ls might be a competitive option too albeit not as cool

@flux_core_fx 80 mph is a lot of headwind for a square body haha. I'm gonna be getting some video of a square body suburban swap, but we aren't really expecting it to do much over 70, definitely not with AC on. It's getting to be a lot to ask out of such a small engine. The water pump just really can't keep up I think

Lol that is for watching man!

Thanks!

Dont give up on her! They usually have pretty easy fixes

@@TDISwaps ruclips.net/video/jSyGYiEFVjc/видео.htmlsi=TAeewYHNlz28YAhc

Really depends on location, I got $1200 for the 5.9 and trans, I have seen a good Jetta auto go for as much as $1200. But those may be high numbers depending on supply and demand

That’s great to know thank you. I know it’s a different market here but that’s a great ball park to start from. Any idea on the “blow by” I’m experiencing?

@ydocproductions5593 you can't measure blow by on a TDI because the vacuum pump is dumping vacuum into the engine so it's always going to be pushing air out. Blow by would be like blowing the dipstick tube out of the holder LOL.

@@TDISwaps That’s great to know thank you! I thought it was a problem LOL there’s a little bit of combustion gasses coming out too, but from what you’ve told me I don’t think it’s an issue. I also looked up your videos of the wiring harness and how to pull one off the vehicle and again, it’s extremely helpful. BTW, Glad you’re getting one step closer to having that Dakota back on the road.👍

If you can spin the engine to where the harmonic balancer has a TDC mark pointing up at the notch in the timing cover you can then see where the cam is with the valve cover and tandem pump off

@@TDISwaps Oh okay, I didn’t realize there were markings for TDC on the balancer and the timing cover that I could line up. So I can check that, and then turn the cam to tdc like how you describe in the video. Put the timing belt back on and that should be close enough to get it to crank?

@jentryhaley5648 theoretically haha, always always rotate the engine 360° before trying to start it, that will prevent valve damage

@@TDISwaps Well hopefully I can get it reset to where it’s supposed to be I can tell if there are any issues. If not, I’ll make you a good really deal on it haha

@jentryhaley5648 lol I hope you can get it!

Unfortunately I don't have the time to do swaps for customers yet, I hope to get to that point in a few years though

Completely understand keep up the work love your content

@ajpunton9821 tha ks for watching man!

I have heard of guys swapping them, they make great power with tuning and turbo upgrades, only downside is minimal mpg upgrade over the factory engine.

It's crazy I never thought I'd be this comfortable messing with these engines

Ha ha nice! Ya I have seen guys over in Europe weld and recut them. At least for now I have plenty of spares so it's not a huge deal but it definitely sucks!

Thanks for watching!

That's an awesome idea!

Probably easier to do an alh inboard

@@AndrewMarsch they have Factory marinized VW

Just the engine weight? About 320-350 lbs I believe

That would be fun!

You may want to check gear ratios in that automatic, it's very well maybe completely different than the diesel transmission and have you running 1000 RPM higher on the highway. And yes the ECU and wiring will not match up, adjustments will need to be made there

@@TDISwaps Thanks for the comments. "Gear ratios": Ah! I thought so. Is there a fix and has it got to do with tuning? "ECU and wiring" Since I am putting in the Engine, ECU and wiring from the BEW TDI, will it still be an issue?

@jmindito as long as you swap everything shouldn't be a problem, I would try swap the transmission and everything

@@TDISwaps 👍That's a very practical advice and I was considering that. However, just wanted to continue with the convenience of the automatic for city traffic.

@jmindito yeah as far as I know the gear ratios will make that not really an option

Definitely!!!

I could try it, I currently run pretty warm oil temps in the summer, I have seen as high as 275°F when I'm holding sustained 1300° EGTs, I know the coolant is warming the oil most of the time, but at some point I would think it's got to be keeping the oil from going over 300°

I guess I have 3 then 😂

I don't want to lower my compression anymore than necessary, high elevation kills my take off power

Mostly a combination of online stores, Cascade German, IDParts, Kerma just depends on price

That's awesome man! And thanks for watching!

The one in this video is about stock ALH size, 12x10x4 core, much too small once I bumped the power up years later