add some ducting to the front to force the air into your radiator more and that will help a lot, also may want to have some heat vents in the hood to help suck the warm air out and create a low pressure behind the radiator to help it cool off more.
Ya for sure, I have tried a few things including venting the back side of the hood without seeing much difference, but I need to see what temp the coolant is actually coming out of the lower hose at, if it's dropping temp fine that would prove the water pump isn't enough, but it may not be getting enough flow like you are saying
@@TDISwaps also between the radiator, intercooler, a/c coil, and around the fan, if you haven't, already. All the OEMs have been doing this for several years now because of how much it helps. you can mock it up with cardboard, but I would be shocked if you didn't see an improvement. Even if you don't think it's helping that much, it will make sure you don't end up with intermittent issues like a tailwind, and it won't cost much time/money.
@ktmfour1007 ya it honestly does very well at 6-7k just the truck, even a small trailer behind that is fine. But this is just over the limit for towing hot with the AC on
Did you put the 180 degree thermostat in? I put one in on my ALH swapped Willys that is having similar issues. It slowed the heating issue but didn't solve it. We put a new Flexalite flex wave 14" fan that moves 1900 CFM . That helped, but not enough to be comfortable on 95 degree days. It was still hitting 210. So I swapped in a new 4 core radiator for 60's Mustang V8. It's been cooler here lately in the 80's so I don't know what it will do yet. Right now it's maxing out ~195. I have a similar stack in front of the radiator, IC, condenser, trans cooler. The next step is put a pusher fan in front and run them both. The Willys has a very small frontal area that doesn't leave many options. You maybe onto something with the second water pump. Jegs and Summit have them that move ~ 50 gpm that should be plenty since a small block maxes out ~ 65 gpm. I'll measure temps on the radiator to see. Thanks for the great videos! Here's a link to us testing the build: ruclips.net/video/hfzCQJNozBc/видео.htmlsi=wSln4sUB__Z4xtyV
I have the same issues with the 180 thermostat but only when towing I've now tested it at 105° out with AC on and it will not break 200 just the truck itself it's only when I hook a trailer update I think the water pump is lacking
@@TDISwaps I think I figured out the issue. You are correct the water pump is not moving enough water but not because of its capacity. It is not getting water to move. The lower radiator hose delivers cooled water to the engine. The ALH lower hose is plumbed directly to the back of the thermostat. Meaning the thermostat cools down. I measured the temperature of my upper and lower radiator tanks last night with the engine running ~195. The upper tank at the inlet hose was ~120, the lower tank at the outlet hose was 93 ! That means that the thermostat is getting hit with 93 degree water and closing - or - at least remaining barely open. The thermostat can't fully open until it gets to 180. That means the heat from the engine can only travel to the radiator by conduction - not flow - through the top hose which it can't do a very good job of since it only can only move the water in the engine and what little can make its way past the thermostat. I'm new to the TDIs and until I looked up the coolant flow direction it didn't make sense. Every other engine I have messed with has the thermostat on the top of the engine - not this one. We have TOO MUCH radiator. The manufacturers switched to this scheme for emissions to keep the entire engine running as managably hot as possible. They have temp sensors in the (otherwise small) radiators and control the water temp with multiple or variable speed fans to keep the incoming water near the thermostat temperature. ALL the water then flows effectively. That way the system uses ALL the water to maintain the design temperature. Anyway, I don't have time to engineer the ideal radiator so, I ordered an inline thermostat housing today and will install it in the upper hose and remove the thermostat from the stock location. That way when it opens ALL the water will flow and the temperature should stabilize across the entire coolant system. It can't do that now. I'll probably try to go back to 195 thermostat to shorten the warm-up time since the radiator has plenty of capacity. I'll keep you posted.
@@TDISwaps The inline thermostat worked ! I put the 180 deg in in the upper hose to see how it would behave and I removed the thermostat from the stock location. We had ~100 deg day and the max temp it hit was just over 210 under load going up hill. We were able to take to the beach again under similar conditions as before and maxed out ~210 crawling under load where before it was headed to 240. Now, normal cruising stays at 180 and makes it to 195 under hard acceleration. EGTS are way better too ~770-1000. FINALLY! It works like I would normally expect. I'm actually using all the radiator and fan now. Still watching for your turbo results. My K03/K04 hybrid is on the small side.
Sounds like she needs a better radiator!! Also if that new turbo is an adjustable vgt if u can get it to adjust the veins for more cruising boost your egt’s should go down. Amazing first test!! 7:00 Holy moly nvm your radiator is gigantic😂😂
The radiator is out of an f350 for the 460, I THINK it's not the issue, but it's hard to say, the water pump is so freaking tiny on these things I gotta believe im over working it, but it's hard to say. Yes tuning for vanes has them max closed until almost full boost lol. Just glad it on the road again!
@@TDISwaps I see I see, yeah I do believe your right about the water pump, could be hard for it to flow all the extra fluid, maybe try to squeeze a radiator hose while it’s running and you can feel how much pressure is in the system, if it’s still squishy while running that could mean weak water pump!! But great video as always keep up the great work!!
@ngelemental2274 thanks man! The pressure definitely increases the hotter it gets, but the water pump just barely flows water into the radiator with the cap off and up to temp, where any V8 holding these kind of power numbers you look in the radiator and it's just churning the water through even with no pressure. But I'm also not an engineer 😂
Keep us posted i am having the same issues towing my camper. 8700lbs total weight. Pulling with my alh 4runner. Temps get up to 220 pretty quick if there is a head wind and above 80 outside temps. I was thinking of adding/changing the oil cooler to help. I didnt even think about the water pump but ya its so small. I definitely need more cooling.
Yeah I've seen guys at oil coolers and they don't do a whole lot you just got to keep the coolant down and I'm pretty sure my radiator isn't the issue but I'm going to get multiple sensors on it to verify
I very much enjoy your videos. I just did a video of Putting a hitch on my TDI and doing a Test tow, I wasnt sure about it as I dont know how strong the DSG transmission is. but have been told that the DSG can handle it just fine.
Hi buddy how are ya?? Wow you got that all together and going quickly. I’m glad it’s running. I’m sure you will figure out the heating issue, can’t wait to see the fix. Thank you for sharing, God bless you and the family!
Did you put a fan behind that intercooler??? What AC system did you use to add AC to the ALH??? My girl want me to add AC to my ALH. I may do "electric" version of AC compressor or.....??? Truck did good . cool vid great info
Thanks for watching! Only fan is on the radiator, AC condenser is between the intercooler and radiator. All AC components are dodge besides the VW compressor still on the engine. Dodge AC hoses are adapted to the VW compressor and dodge drier. There's a video on the AC setup
@TDISwaps I'm not sure what brand you are using for thermostat, but make sure its a quality one. I went through two off brand ones that wouldn't fully open till 220° or so. Doing 5th gear pulls 55-70mph on the hwy would send me up to 210° easily and they would hang there for 5 or so minutes after. I put in a name brand thermostat and now It'll only go up a few degrees on a 0-60pull. May not be the issue but something to think about.
Yeah I've had a couple bad ones but under normal driving I'm seeing less than 10° change currently, it's not till I hook up to this trailer and triple the weight that I run into issues.
@GlowBugTDI22 I have all Tekmektronics tuning. I couldn't even keep the truck itself cool with Malone tuning. But I have pretty extreme elevation changes around me so I'm working these engines just normal driving.
@@TDISwaps Ok, I was going through your vids and now see the jeep has the decal. Good tuning AFAIK. Ya, malone runs to much advance, and has rough fueling/boost combo's. Nice things about diesels is they can handle the elevation really well. Especially when tuned for it. Going up hill can add a lot of work on a truck like that though lol.
Your vids have put me on to the same setup! I do have a couple questions, first is your not running a coolant overflow? And second, how did you setup your utragauge to show MPH? I use the same gauge but currently have a GPS Speedo for mph
I use the top of the radiator as the "expansion tank" like factory, with the radiator down a couple inches the overflow never blows off. I have a speed sensor to the VW ECU to make cruise work, and that gives the ultra gauge a speed, and it has a correction factor to make the mph dead on.
If you look at the blue filter it's got a hose at the front sucking air from the fender. Intake temps at the engine were only 10-15° hotter than outside temps so it's doing very well that way.
@bobirving6052 no worries haha, I really think the water pump not keeping up is my biggest issue, but this also just might be outside the abilities of a 1900CC go kart engine 😂
A small turbine heats the air more, this can also affect the engine temperature. And why do you need a pressure of 1 bar on a flat road without a rise?
I am combatting the heat rise with a very oversized intercooler. I am never on flat ground haha, I live in the mountains. I need 1 bar of pressure just to get up my driveway
@ВладимирЯковенко-б2з yes unfortunately I am really working these little engines. I do have much bigger turbos on my other TDIs that are much lighter and can slip the clutch more, but I think for this truck the true fix would be compound turbos to have cool efficient air at all rpm levels.
These are high revving diesels they don't flow enough coolant or air at 2000 RPM to move the kind of weight I'm doing climbing elevation like I am. I actually lose MPG under 2500
I am not expert in rebuild . But I found a good used TDI 1.9L engine in reputable seller . My question is stock turbo , 1998 1.9TDI can power mark3 supra which is 3500 lb small coupe. ? I have R154 transmssion , Can I attached 1.8TDI to R154 ?I saw after market bell housing for R150 toTDI on Ebay people are selling.
I'd have to see which one you're talking about but there are definitely options even on eBay. A lot of the cheaper ones are not very accurately built though and can have clutch issues because of that.
Probably should buy a real truck if you want to tow at all….stability, brakes and power are so much different in a truck made to tow over those little city boy trucks
Actually the 1 ton axles/brakes/10ply tires make this thing very stable towing lol, it's almost identical to a 1 ton standard cab long box really, besides frame strength of course
@@TDISwaps and the frame strength is huge. The difference in towing with my f250 compared to my double wall frame f550 is night and day with the same engine and trans. Towing with an f150 and going to a f250 with the same load and you’ll wonder why anyone would buy a f150 to pull a trailer.
add some ducting to the front to force the air into your radiator more and that will help a lot, also may want to have some heat vents in the hood to help suck the warm air out and create a low pressure behind the radiator to help it cool off more.
Ya for sure, I have tried a few things including venting the back side of the hood without seeing much difference, but I need to see what temp the coolant is actually coming out of the lower hose at, if it's dropping temp fine that would prove the water pump isn't enough, but it may not be getting enough flow like you are saying
@@TDISwaps also between the radiator, intercooler, a/c coil, and around the fan, if you haven't, already. All the OEMs have been doing this for several years now because of how much it helps. you can mock it up with cardboard, but I would be shocked if you didn't see an improvement. Even if you don't think it's helping that much, it will make sure you don't end up with intermittent issues like a tailwind, and it won't cost much time/money.
@adamlesandrini312 ya there's a lot of improvements to make for sure!
Anything ovek 5klbs really gonna be working hard
@ktmfour1007 ya it honestly does very well at 6-7k just the truck, even a small trailer behind that is fine. But this is just over the limit for towing hot with the AC on
Did you put the 180 degree thermostat in? I put one in on my ALH swapped Willys that is having similar issues. It slowed the heating issue but didn't solve it. We put a new Flexalite flex wave 14" fan that moves 1900 CFM . That helped, but not enough to be comfortable on 95 degree days. It was still hitting 210. So I swapped in a new 4 core radiator for 60's Mustang V8. It's been cooler here lately in the 80's so I don't know what it will do yet. Right now it's maxing out ~195. I have a similar stack in front of the radiator, IC, condenser, trans cooler.
The next step is put a pusher fan in front and run them both. The Willys has a very small frontal area that doesn't leave many options. You maybe onto something with the second water pump. Jegs and Summit have them that move ~ 50 gpm that should be plenty since a small block maxes out ~ 65 gpm. I'll measure temps on the radiator to see. Thanks for the great videos! Here's a link to us testing the build: ruclips.net/video/hfzCQJNozBc/видео.htmlsi=wSln4sUB__Z4xtyV
I have the same issues with the 180 thermostat but only when towing I've now tested it at 105° out with AC on and it will not break 200 just the truck itself it's only when I hook a trailer update I think the water pump is lacking
@@TDISwaps I think I figured out the issue. You are correct the water pump is not moving enough water but not because of its capacity. It is not getting water to move. The lower radiator hose delivers cooled water to the engine. The ALH lower hose is plumbed directly to the back of the thermostat. Meaning the thermostat cools down. I measured the temperature of my upper and lower radiator tanks last night with the engine running ~195. The upper tank at the inlet hose was ~120, the lower tank at the outlet hose was 93 !
That means that the thermostat is getting hit with 93 degree water and closing - or - at least remaining barely open. The thermostat can't fully open until it gets to 180. That means the heat from the engine can only travel to the radiator by conduction - not flow - through the top hose which it can't do a very good job of since it only can only move the water in the engine and what little can make its way past the thermostat.
I'm new to the TDIs and until I looked up the coolant flow direction it didn't make sense. Every other engine I have messed with has the thermostat on the top of the engine - not this one. We have TOO MUCH radiator. The manufacturers switched to this scheme for emissions to keep the entire engine running as managably hot as possible. They have temp sensors in the (otherwise small) radiators and control the water temp with multiple or variable speed fans to keep the incoming water near the thermostat temperature. ALL the water then flows effectively. That way the system uses ALL the water to maintain the design temperature.
Anyway, I don't have time to engineer the ideal radiator so, I ordered an inline thermostat housing today and will install it in the upper hose and remove the thermostat from the stock location. That way when it opens ALL the water will flow and the temperature should stabilize across the entire coolant system. It can't do that now.
I'll probably try to go back to 195 thermostat to shorten the warm-up time since the radiator has plenty of capacity. I'll keep you posted.
@tdah8334 let me know how it works!
@@TDISwaps
The inline thermostat worked ! I put the 180 deg in in the upper hose to see how it would behave and I removed the thermostat from the stock location. We had ~100 deg day and the max temp it hit was just over 210 under load going up hill. We were able to take to the beach again under similar conditions as before and maxed out ~210 crawling under load where before it was headed to 240. Now, normal cruising stays at 180 and makes it to 195 under hard acceleration. EGTS are way better too ~770-1000. FINALLY! It works like I would normally expect. I'm actually using all the radiator and fan now. Still watching for your turbo results. My K03/K04 hybrid is on the small side.
@tdah8334 that's great news!
Sounds like she needs a better radiator!! Also if that new turbo is an adjustable vgt if u can get it to adjust the veins for more cruising boost your egt’s should go down. Amazing first test!! 7:00 Holy moly nvm your radiator is gigantic😂😂
The radiator is out of an f350 for the 460, I THINK it's not the issue, but it's hard to say, the water pump is so freaking tiny on these things I gotta believe im over working it, but it's hard to say. Yes tuning for vanes has them max closed until almost full boost lol. Just glad it on the road again!
@@TDISwaps I see I see, yeah I do believe your right about the water pump, could be hard for it to flow all the extra fluid, maybe try to squeeze a radiator hose while it’s running and you can feel how much pressure is in the system, if it’s still squishy while running that could mean weak water pump!! But great video as always keep up the great work!!
@ngelemental2274 thanks man! The pressure definitely increases the hotter it gets, but the water pump just barely flows water into the radiator with the cap off and up to temp, where any V8 holding these kind of power numbers you look in the radiator and it's just churning the water through even with no pressure. But I'm also not an engineer 😂
@@TDISwaps hey man look at this work of art you put together here, I’d say your engineer enough😂
@ngelemental2274 ya I suppose, but I'm mostly just winging it out here 😂😂😂
Add a spray mist over the intercooler and radiator for hills
I should do that really
@@TDISwaps boost in power too could simultaneously spray methanol😄. I think that also will cool it down
@ktmfour1007 ya guys do all kinds of crazy stuff to cool down 😂
Maybe 1 suggestion// use the heater core hose as another radiator??
Well this is an f350 radiator, I really dont think it's the issue, but I need to test lower radiator hose temps to confirm
@@TDISwaps the TDI have a outlet for the heater core I'm saying remove it from the heater core and install a extra radiator..
It's alive!
So happy!
Keep us posted i am having the same issues towing my camper. 8700lbs total weight. Pulling with my alh 4runner. Temps get up to 220 pretty quick if there is a head wind and above 80 outside temps. I was thinking of adding/changing the oil cooler to help. I didnt even think about the water pump but ya its so small. I definitely need more cooling.
Yeah I've seen guys at oil coolers and they don't do a whole lot you just got to keep the coolant down and I'm pretty sure my radiator isn't the issue but I'm going to get multiple sensors on it to verify
@TDISwaps ya I think your right. I've got to do some digging on water pumps now I guess.
@306familyfarm haha ya, open the pocketbook for any good ones 😬
I very much enjoy your videos.
I just did a video of Putting a hitch on my TDI and doing a Test tow, I wasnt sure about it as I dont know how strong the DSG transmission is. but have been told that the DSG can handle it just fine.
Yes the DAG is much much better than previous transmissions
Hi buddy how are ya?? Wow you got that all together and going quickly. I’m glad it’s running.
I’m sure you will figure out the heating issue, can’t wait to see the fix. Thank you for sharing, God bless you and the family!
Thanks man you too! And thanks for watching
Sounds like you got the turbo matched a lot better.
Definitely! Not as much top end but I don't drive it fast anyways
Nice!!!!
It's awesome!
Did you put a fan behind that intercooler??? What AC system did you use to add AC to the ALH??? My girl want me to add AC to my ALH. I may do "electric" version of AC compressor or.....??? Truck did good . cool vid great info
Thanks for watching! Only fan is on the radiator, AC condenser is between the intercooler and radiator. All AC components are dodge besides the VW compressor still on the engine. Dodge AC hoses are adapted to the VW compressor and dodge drier. There's a video on the AC setup
@@TDISwaps thanks brother
@Indianrider65 for sure man!
@TDISwaps I'm not sure what brand you are using for thermostat, but make sure its a quality one. I went through two off brand ones that wouldn't fully open till 220° or so. Doing 5th gear pulls 55-70mph on the hwy would send me up to 210° easily and they would hang there for 5 or so minutes after. I put in a name brand thermostat and now It'll only go up a few degrees on a 0-60pull. May not be the issue but something to think about.
Yeah I've had a couple bad ones but under normal driving I'm seeing less than 10° change currently, it's not till I hook up to this trailer and triple the weight that I run into issues.
@@TDISwaps are you self tuned or who do you tune through?
@GlowBugTDI22 I have all Tekmektronics tuning. I couldn't even keep the truck itself cool with Malone tuning. But I have pretty extreme elevation changes around me so I'm working these engines just normal driving.
@@TDISwaps Ok, I was going through your vids and now see the jeep has the decal. Good tuning AFAIK. Ya, malone runs to much advance, and has rough fueling/boost combo's.
Nice things about diesels is they can handle the elevation really well. Especially when tuned for it. Going up hill can add a lot of work on a truck like that though lol.
@GlowBugTDI22 yup, they do amazing just moving a 5500lb truck, I'm probably just asking too much to throw a car and trailer on top of that lol
Your vids have put me on to the same setup!
I do have a couple questions, first is your not running a coolant overflow?
And second, how did you setup your utragauge to show MPH? I use the same gauge but currently have a GPS Speedo for mph
I use the top of the radiator as the "expansion tank" like factory, with the radiator down a couple inches the overflow never blows off. I have a speed sensor to the VW ECU to make cruise work, and that gives the ultra gauge a speed, and it has a correction factor to make the mph dead on.
Good stuff !
Cold air intake could help a little.
If you look at the blue filter it's got a hose at the front sucking air from the fender. Intake temps at the engine were only 10-15° hotter than outside temps so it's doing very well that way.
Oh sorry. I see you have cold air intake.
@bobirving6052 no worries haha, I really think the water pump not keeping up is my biggest issue, but this also just might be outside the abilities of a 1900CC go kart engine 😂
A small turbine heats the air more, this can also affect the engine temperature. And why do you need a pressure of 1 bar on a flat road without a rise?
I am combatting the heat rise with a very oversized intercooler. I am never on flat ground haha, I live in the mountains. I need 1 bar of pressure just to get up my driveway
@@TDISwapsYes, I saw later that these were long climbs)
@ВладимирЯковенко-б2з yes unfortunately I am really working these little engines. I do have much bigger turbos on my other TDIs that are much lighter and can slip the clutch more, but I think for this truck the true fix would be compound turbos to have cool efficient air at all rpm levels.
@@TDISwapsfrom BMW?)
Junkyard BMW electric water pump time
Those things are computer controlled though, from what I read it's not straight forward to just flip a switch to turn them on
do you need to run the RPM's they high to keep power or is that just because of your gearing?
These are high revving diesels they don't flow enough coolant or air at 2000 RPM to move the kind of weight I'm doing climbing elevation like I am. I actually lose MPG under 2500
I am not expert in rebuild . But I found a good used TDI 1.9L engine in reputable seller . My question is stock turbo , 1998 1.9TDI can power mark3 supra which is 3500 lb small coupe. ? I have R154 transmssion , Can I attached 1.8TDI to R154 ?I saw after market bell housing for R150 toTDI on Ebay people are selling.
I'd have to see which one you're talking about but there are definitely options even on eBay. A lot of the cheaper ones are not very accurately built though and can have clutch issues because of that.
Need me to send ya one of those bmw electric pump?
Only if it comes with a controller LOL
what type of mileage you getting?
19-24 has been worst and best
That's a hell of a lot of rpm for not a lot of speed
It's a heck of a huge load for an engine almost the size of my Harley's 🤣🤣🤣
We will see how good this turbo does.....I just ordered one so I'll have a direct comparison from the GTD1756 to the GTC1549.
Peer pressure 😂
@@TDISwaps LU bud! lol
@TDISwap always 😁
Probably should buy a real truck if you want to tow at all….stability, brakes and power are so much different in a truck made to tow over those little city boy trucks
Actually the 1 ton axles/brakes/10ply tires make this thing very stable towing lol, it's almost identical to a 1 ton standard cab long box really, besides frame strength of course
@@TDISwaps and the frame strength is huge. The difference in towing with my f250 compared to my double wall frame f550 is night and day with the same engine and trans. Towing with an f150 and going to a f250 with the same load and you’ll wonder why anyone would buy a f150 to pull a trailer.
@FarmStrong88 for me it's the fact that this entire truck can be replaced for 1/2 the cost of the engine in my f250 😂