Видео

You're very close. The C9 is a black SL-C9ES. :)

@@crashbandicoot4everr Then it is an imported device. I checked the endings on ku oc yabE.

@TTVEaGMXde Nearly... 😊

@crashbandicoot4everr Absolutely correct on the C9. 👍

@TTVEaGMXde It is - that one was a Dutch market machine I believe.

All very true. So far the machine I run that I've done this on is still working well with no signs of wear and I've never had a problem do it. I like to thin that what is removed very slightly compensates for any head chip wear but of course that's always going to be hit or miss. Do you have a solution that maybe is better? I'm always looking for more efficient/ better ways to do things but ultimately it does extend the life of these machines and stops excessive wear and tape slapping during wind operations. Some great points and much appreciated.

Thank you so much. Have you tried Tascam Ninja? He does seem very good and sourcing lamps and you may well be able to find something that'll fit. Do you know the electrical spec of the lamps (current draw and voltage)?

Thank you so much - it's brilliant to have another brain! That's perfect and I'll check through what you've suggested. I do still wonder if i do have power supply issues although the rails seem ok but a service manual would be super useful but a little reverse engineering (and some time to do it!) from a C5/C7 manuals/ machines should help a lot! Thanks again - really very appreciated. 😊 I think I'll be mentioning you in the next installment too. 👍

I'm not sure how they were distributed - maybe through independent retailers? I agree, back in the day I really didn't like the look of them them - they just looked dowdy somehow? These days I do really like them and the circuit design is a great twist on the Sony C5 and C7 and I suppose the SL3000 too. Really glad you enjoyed the video.

There are a few things to check - clean the tape path and make sure the top end of the ACE head is clean on the Audio/ Control head. Check alignment - look for any tape curl and make sure the capstan is perfectly clean. Check the pinch roller has good roll on - spin the pinch roller as fast as you can - it should run on for several seconds. If it stops quickly then the bearings are gone and you'll need to replace. Finally, is the drum itself worn? Demagnetisation of the ACE head can sometimes help too. Hope this helps and good luck.

Love it! 🤣

Especially the fan video head and looks like some secret Sony orange box call em plug in circuits.

It is NEC but using Sony parts and chipset. Interesting variation though on how Sony designed their sets. I do prefer the Sony versions.

I've seen them at auctions in the past, and I've got an NEC portable Beta recorder and camera somewhere in my loft.

In Germany, NEC and TOSHIBA had practically no market relevance at Beta. The Japanese had "slightly" more competitors in Germany with Blaupunkt, GRUNDIG, ITT, LOEWE, Metz, Nordmende, PHILIPS, SABA and Telefunken.

@Zeem4 Oh wow - what's the model number of that? Never seen or heard of the portable. Maybe it's a rebadged Sony SL3000? If it's looking for a new home...

@video99couk Have had a a few of these and saw quite a few back in the day too - seemed relatively reliable too. Yes, I certainly went around in circles but it'll be done... one day... soon... maybe.. well, hopefully... No, it'll live to fight another day! 😊🤞

@TTVEaGMXde Interesting market in Germany and I guess surrounding countries too. I think I would have gone the V2000 route with Grundig back in the day although probably might have regretted it... Maybe. Still so love the V2000 format.

Thank you 😊

First place I'd look are the belts under the deck - there should be one that goes from the bottom of the head drum to the idler drive pulley and these usually are the first to either stretch or break. The capstan belts also commonly turn to goo on these too. Good luck and let us know how you get on. 😊👍

When the picture degrades, what happens to it - does it pull to the left with angled down to the left frame sync lines? My guess is it's probably capacitors in the head drum servo section but there is (from memory!) a drum free speed adjustment which with a slight tweak should make it god again. I'll dig out the manual and have a look and let you know.

I forgot to say - probably changing those power supply capacitors wouldn't make any difference to your issue but it might be worth checking your voltage rails out of the power supply just to make sure none of them are low and if they are, check those capacitors. If you put your meter on AC you should be able to see how much ripple is there too which would give a clue to any potential power supply capacitor issues.

Hi Gary. I never made the part 2! That is to come soon though - basically not done anything with the machine since making part 1 so keep an eye out... 😊

My pleasure Rob. Was great to get the front loading system working and reliable and that was an odd place for it to fail although I have seen that once before. I do wonder if excess grease does speed up the decline of the plastic.

Thank you 😊 The fast flashing timer lamp should go out once the clock has been set - it's just warning that it's lost all it's settings due to a power cut. Hope that helps.

@@MrBetaByte yes it did thank you. Keep the good stuff coming.

There is something about these budget VCRs that makes them fun to work on and they are pretty reliable once they're sorted too.

Thank you 😊

Really glad it helped you. 😊

It's worth checking the fuses just in case as they can look good but the wire can fracture after all these years. Usually though it's the STK regulator chip that causes this issue. Be careful if you do swap it out as there are a lot of fake ones out there but I have found that LittleDiode on eBay seem to supply genuine ones and have told me as much too. Change those little capacitors in the power supply too as they do cause issues.

@ramoroso2 It's worth checking the fuses just in case as they can look good but the wire can fracture after all these years. Usually though it's the STK regulator chip that causes this issue. Be careful if you do swap it out as there are a lot of fake ones out there but I have found that LittleDiode on eBay seem to supply genuine ones and have told me as much too. Change those little capacitors in the power supply too as they do cause issues.

Thank you 😊

Thank you 😊

Yes of course - it is detailed in the description for the video but the white gears are currently available from here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-WHITE-PL... These should be the right ones - the original listing for 50 is no longer live unfortunately. They have 11 teeth and a 2mm bore. Good luck.

@@MrBetaByte Thank you so much but the page looks currently unavailable. :(

@@VideoLaFaSol Sorry - the link didn't copy correctly - try this one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254207030048?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=CK4-D1xORZm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=5-wKrEwvT26&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I would say you#re missing a voltage more than likely on the SS board and more than likely it'll be a semiconductor fuse on that board. I'd also check all the key voltages from the power supply too. It won't be the hall-effect as when they fail you get no or little motor rotation.

Really glad you enjoyed the video and it's now a lovely machine.

This particular machine is really amazing and right up there on my list of favourites.

Yes, it is. Hopefully I'll be getting it going very soon too.

Thank you 👍

Glad you liked it 😊. It's the 1997 Brit awards.

Thank you - a very very long one coming up soon...

Thank you 😊

It's really good and another one to come soon...

They are super heavy machines and solid too. Sounds like your three had quite worn heads too. We got this one going though in the end but it did have a really odd video issue which I fixed at the very last minute - that's shown in the second part where we also change the heads.

Great, there's one for the C6 coming next week - The NEC will be after that soon.

Yes, it's not a bad job - there are two connectors/ cable runs, one for the motor and one for the RF/ switching from the heads so trace and undo those first so you don't have to fiddle too much when you drop the drum out. Main thing is being careful of the head chips. There's no mechanical alignment to worry about apart from possibly some sligh entry/ exit guide tweaks if the tracking is a little out. You should check the RF from the heads as best practice but you'll probably find this won't be necessary. Somewhere on the channel I do shw this being done - I think on a C30 but I'll have to have a search!

My pleasure

That does sound like worn heads. What tapes are you using? Might be worth trying to pick up a NOS Sony cassette and trying that?

It would but they can be pretty poor quality. One workaround is to pick up a late VCR like the Panasonic EZ48 that has composite and scart on the front and back but an HDMI output.

@@MrBetaByte Thanks for the reply - that's an interesting idea.

That's really cool - not seen the Toshiba clone. There can be head switching issues with these (much like in this video with this machine) but the heads do get quite a bit of wear in these. Is the upper drum shiney? That's usually a good clue as to whether the heads are worn. Also, have a look at the head chips themselves - do they look intact with a clearly defined gap in the centre?

@@MrBetaByte You can very definitely see the tape path on the upper drum, just assumed it was designed to be 'slicker'. Yeah heads visibly look alright, but then what do I know! Great vid by the way - liked and subscribed ;)

Thank you so much and will certainly keep in mind you spares machine. 😊

Thank you. 😊

I have heard of the blue ones but have never seen one. I don't think we had them in the UK though. Thank you so much for sharing.

Very heavy indeed! Glad you enjoyed the video.

I have an NV-8600-EM. The picture quality is suprisingly great considering it's a 1st gen VHS deck.

@@crashbandicoot4everr Around 1980, Hitachi brought a VHS recorder onto the market, and the service manual states that the horizontal resolution is 240 lines in color (LQ VHS) and 300 lines in b/w (HQ VHS). But I have also seen TV recordings from 1980 where the 3 MHz lines can be seen in the test pattern at the end of the transmission.

I have the NV-8600 & SL-8000 amongst my extensive collection. The Panasonic is sharp but the Sony is more natural looking. Panasonic did make the best VHS video recorders at the time but Beta was the better format.

I can quite believe that too but I have to say I was really impressed by the picture on the SL8000 - it's the first time I've ever used one! Still have another to look at too.

Thank you. 😊