A Basic Guide to Restoration Bodywork and Highbuild Priming - The Resto Shed

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  • Опубликовано: 27 апр 2023
  • This is a basic guide on how I bodywork a restoration project, it’s what I find works well for me, it may work for you too.
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Комментарии • 37

  • @Thatguy-dk8zm
    @Thatguy-dk8zm 8 месяцев назад +1

    Love the detail you went into very informative

  • @mattspeakers3260
    @mattspeakers3260 Год назад +2

    The tips are awesome, thanks again mate.

  • @andrewgillbee1934
    @andrewgillbee1934 Год назад +2

    Great video again mate

  • @vanzelstrestorations998
    @vanzelstrestorations998 Год назад +2

    Great video mate, pretty much follow the same process myself.
    Starting to use a bit of the restofinish, builds really well.

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +2

      I have 8l of RestoFinish Polyprimer coming my way for the next build, I’ve been really happy with it the last couple of times I used it.
      The stuff I sprayed a fortnight ago still hasn’t shrunk at all and is hard as a rock.

  • @drifterdrifter9558
    @drifterdrifter9558 Год назад +2

    Nice work mate

  • @ToughGarage
    @ToughGarage Год назад +2

    Great video mate

  • @stevegus2845
    @stevegus2845 Год назад +1

    Good stuff that polyprimer. I've even tried it on an old door almost wet on wet over epoxy primer 1hr between without an issue.
    not recommended but its also been out in the weather for months. I stay clear of using any prepsol prior just incase of introducing contaminants. the guy was very specific when I spoke to him, even said don't cheap out on the acetone as some are not that pure. I buy the technical grade from sydney tools as a reducer, works well.

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +1

      Yep certainly not recommended, epoxy takes a long time to cure, PolyPrimer is set hard in a couple of hours.

    • @coastaboi747
      @coastaboi747 Год назад

      ​@@TheRestoShed try PPG Deltron DP616, you can wet on wet prime and it cures in 8 hours. it's way better then epotec/ 408

  • @bradenphillips2734
    @bradenphillips2734 Год назад +2

    Awesome work mate, vids have been a great help, how long do you usually leave between each coat of the epoxy and also each coat of the poly? Cheers

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +2

      It’s best to check the technical data sheets on the products you’re using.
      Also the temperatures you’re spraying in too play a big factor in it too.

    • @bradenphillips2734
      @bradenphillips2734 Год назад +1

      Thanks mate, keep up the good work 👌

  • @seekndestroygaming
    @seekndestroygaming Год назад

    Never been a fan of polyester primer. This product seems pretty good tho, usually you don't paint over it. For resto work I usually just use a high build primer block it then re prime it. Might have to check out this primer 👍

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +2

      Not a traditional polyester primer.
      2k urethane primers shrink a lot, this stuff shrinks very little and is extremely high building.

    • @seekndestroygaming
      @seekndestroygaming Год назад +1

      @@TheRestoShed yeah I guess they have come along way since I used them haha. Definitely going to check this out on my Torana build. 👍

  • @leerevell5998
    @leerevell5998 Год назад

    Are you filling over the Epoxy with out scratching it up or over the poly primer 🤔

  • @clintonalessi1394
    @clintonalessi1394 Год назад

    Interesting product. Do you use a eurethane primer over it or just paint?

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +1

      Can do either

    • @clintonalessi1394
      @clintonalessi1394 Год назад

      @@TheRestoShed how well does it sand with the finer grits? In the past when I have used poly primer it's been rock hard and needs a good 120g then a urethane primer over it. This stuff looks very different tho.

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +2

      It’s a different kind of beast. Similar to Clausen All U Need but doesn’t settle in the can and imo holds up a bit better shrink wise (now that’s a shrink test I’d like to do!)
      It blocks very well considering the other benefits of the product. I’ll have no issues rubbing it up to 800 grit.

  • @ludzinc
    @ludzinc Год назад +1

    What type / brand of paint do you use for top coat?

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +2

      I dare say I’ll be using my usual Protec Paraglaze basecoat/Carmaster HS (or another from Protec) clear on this one, RestoFinish state their products can be over coated by most reputable automotive paints.

  • @douglasamills
    @douglasamills Год назад +2

    Can i ask why put filler on a door skin prior to install? in over 20 years i have never seen that in a body shop lol Unless this is purely for the demo.

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +1

      It’s a display piece/demo.

    • @icarusdb58
      @icarusdb58 Год назад

      agree , if your putting filler on a new door skin other the your welded joins , you should re assess what your doing wrong

    • @icarusdb58
      @icarusdb58 Год назад

      I think regardless if it's for display ,it's ill advised doing it that way , which should be mentioned

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +2

      @icarusdb58 at the 20:30 mark, I say it is a display piece.

    • @russellgeorgelindsay6483
      @russellgeorgelindsay6483 7 месяцев назад

      Can I ask you use Protec 408 primer and then 3 m filler does Protec have a filler or not as good as the 3 m as I’m new to this just started on Xc sedan

  • @icarusdb58
    @icarusdb58 Год назад

    would of put the skin on then repaired it , I think when you put the skin on your going to damage and crack your filler naturaly anyway and redo ,however being hq , thicker gauge metal , metal finishing skins ( all skins ) is stock standard . otherwise why skin it .just saying your doing more work than you have to 👍

    • @TheRestoShed
      @TheRestoShed  Год назад +2

      It’s a display piece but you’re the expert what would I know.