Really appreciated your step by step illustration of how to replace this part on the Tundra 4.6L V8....I must have played back your video at least ten times, BUT I think I got it!👍💯
@@crazyoceanlove People use bypass so they don't have to deal with it again. I live in Comifornia so I have to replace the valve. This will be my second time.
@@lesp315 does the bypass kit eliminate the problem and/or code? Or…? Thanks in advance! I have a 2010 that has been having this issue for a while and every place I’ve taken it estimates somewhere around 4K-6k which I don’t have right now. I’m thinking of the bypass kit as I live on the Gulf Coast and moisture is a constant. I read someplace that you still had to replace the secondary air flow sensor even if installing the bypass but that was a while back- if not I may be able to get it back on the road sooner.
@@FAHnGirl I didn't use the bypass kit. I tested with a multimeter two pumps. They were perfect, so I only replaced both valves. Don't use Chinese valves like Dorman. I did it twice and they didn't work. Once I used DENSO Toyota parts all problems went away. The reeds in Chinese parts aren't the same and pressure sensors inside valves aren't working properly. I know that Toyota parts are not cheap. I was lucky and bought two brand new on eBay for $164.28 each including shipping. My Tundra is V8 4.6L. Make sure they are made by DENSO. People cheat and remove Chinese part numbers. Also, the upper plastic parts are the same so you can buy two driver or passenger side valves and replace black plastic parts only. This way it's an easier job too. Good luck.
You're welcome and thank you! The OEM part number for "Bank 2" (passenger side) is 2570138100. I used the Dorman brand part number 911-607. I got it on Amazon for $185.37 The OEM part number for "Bank 1" (driver side) is 2570238050. The Dorman brand part number for "Bank 1" is 911-624 and is available on Amazon for $238.63 Good luck!
Great work man! How did you remove the electric plug attach to this (black color) as I’m struggling to unplug this. You removed it so easily as shown in the video (at 3:35) where you said “it goes off”
I believe there was a tab that needs to be squeezed as you slide off the connector. Lately if I’ve ever been unsure how to open a specific connection, I’ll honestly google or RUclips it to learn how to open it correctly. In the past, I’ve worked some of those things in utter frustration and risked damaging them just by trying to force them and not understanding the proper way to open them.
I take out the plastic part and the metal valve and replace only that. It's much easier. The only difference is the metal bottom parts and I just keep the old one on the engine. I only have to disconnect one hose out of the way and replace four screws. I'm lazy.
Once I replaced the part and cleared the code, the issue was resolved. So far, the code hasn't came back... yet. Over the past few years, I've had to replace the valve on Bank 1 twice so I anticipate the possibility of having to do Bank 2 again sometime in the future. This is because of a design flaw on the air system intake tubes that go into the air pumps and eventually the valves. The pumps could also eventually fail, which is a much bigger job to repair. The open ended tubes allow water to enter the valves during wet, hard driving weather and that water causes the valves to fail. I'm not a mechanic but forced myself to learn to do simple repairs and save a bunch of money if I could. I hope the video helps!
I'm honestly not sure. I have the 4.6 L V8 and that's what my experience learning has been with. I know there is a major difference with the 5.7 L V8 and the 4.6 L V8 but I'm sure the 4.7 shouldn't be too different. But again, I'm honestly not sure.
Where do you get your parts? Calling the local Toyota dealer is never a pleasant experience as they want you to use their service department and pay the 2k-3k?
I agree completely and try to avoid dealing with Toyota if at all possible. Depending on the part, I’ve shopped around O’Reilly’s, Advance Auto Parts and Amazon. I always read reviews to determine the best value and look at other people’s experiences. The last time I changed the valve on bank one, it was an OEM Toyota part I got from Amazon at a much better price than Toyota would have charged me. When I did this one, bank two, I got it from Amazon as well but it was an aftermarket part, not OEM.
Stop wasting money repairing these parts, they will fail again. Go to Hewitt industries and get a bypass kit that is simple to install and will end this issue forever. The only function of this system is to pump fresh air into the catalytic converter for 45 seconds when you start the engine for emission standards. I waisted my money replacing the pumps and valves and it happened again a year later. I have had it bypassed for 6 years and never had an issue. Replacing these parts is a waist of money and time.
I left all the worn out parts in tack, the bypass kit comes with plates that go under the valves and the kit totally bypasses all of the sensor inputs. You will never regret it.
You're welcome! Bank 1 is definitely easier because you have to remove the stuff in the way for Bank 2 but when it comes to swapping out the actual parts, they're basically the same! Good Luck!
@@omarmurad4763 You shouldn’t have to replace the pump. There’s a different code for that. However, sometime down the road, you may have to replace the pumps. As of now, I haven’t had to replace the pumps and I’m really not looking forward to have to! 😎
@@barrygardner67 Exactly,Mr barry there is no code for the pump, only I have two code p2440 Valve Stuck Open Bank 1 and p2442 Valve Stuck Open Bank 2 but the dealership’s spare parts department told me that the valves and the pump come together, and if I want to get the pump later, the price will be more. Because in their view, all three pieces must be replaced
Really appreciated your step by step illustration of how to replace this part on the Tundra 4.6L V8....I must have played back your video at least ten times, BUT I think I got it!👍💯
You're welcome!
I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for the instructions! Was able to swap this part out in an hour when this happened to me while on vacation.
I know it can be a nightmare if it suddenly happens.
I'm happy I could help and it worked out for you!
Thanks for the video! My V6 4.0 was experiencing the same issue. Obd2 gave the p2440/p2442. Definitely put my mind at ease.
Great job. Everything in the description is exactly what I am experiencing but I might go with the bypass kit instead. Great video.
Thank you! Good Luck!
Why by pass??
@@crazyoceanlove People use bypass so they don't have to deal with it again. I live in Comifornia so I have to replace the valve. This will be my second time.
@@lesp315 does the bypass kit eliminate the problem and/or code? Or…?
Thanks in advance! I have a 2010 that has been having this issue for a while and every place I’ve taken it estimates somewhere around 4K-6k which I don’t have right now. I’m thinking of the bypass kit as I live on the Gulf Coast and moisture is a constant. I read someplace that you still had to replace the secondary air flow sensor even if installing the bypass but that was a while back- if not I may be able to get it back on the road sooner.
@@FAHnGirl I didn't use the bypass kit. I tested with a multimeter two pumps. They were perfect, so I only replaced both valves. Don't use Chinese valves like Dorman. I did it twice and they didn't work. Once I used DENSO Toyota parts all problems went away. The reeds in Chinese parts aren't the same and pressure sensors inside valves aren't working properly. I know that Toyota parts are not cheap. I was lucky and bought two brand new on eBay for $164.28 each including shipping. My Tundra is V8 4.6L. Make sure they are made by DENSO. People cheat and remove Chinese part numbers. Also, the upper plastic parts are the same so you can buy two driver or passenger side valves and replace black plastic parts only. This way it's an easier job too. Good luck.
Great video! Thank you.
I am trying to find OEM part for it, do you have a part # ?
You're welcome and thank you!
The OEM part number for "Bank 2" (passenger side) is 2570138100.
I used the Dorman brand part number 911-607.
I got it on Amazon for $185.37
The OEM part number for "Bank 1" (driver side) is 2570238050.
The Dorman brand part number for "Bank 1" is 911-624 and is available on Amazon for $238.63
Good luck!
@@barrygardner67 Thank you!!
Great work man! How did you remove the electric plug attach to this (black color) as I’m struggling to unplug this. You removed it so easily as shown in the video (at 3:35) where you said “it goes off”
I believe there was a tab that needs to be squeezed as you slide off the connector.
Lately if I’ve ever been unsure how to open a specific connection, I’ll honestly google or RUclips it to learn how to open it correctly.
In the past, I’ve worked some of those things in utter frustration and risked damaging them just by trying to force them and not understanding the proper way to open them.
Great Job! 😎
What code reader are you using??
I have the same exact code coming up, plan to replace this part soon.
Máhalo!
😎🙏🏽🤙🏽
I use the Blue Driver OBD2 Scan Tool for iPhone.
I've been using it for years and it's been great for my DIY needs.
I take out the plastic part and the metal valve and replace only that. It's much easier. The only difference is the metal bottom parts and I just keep the old one on the engine. I only have to disconnect one hose out of the way and replace four screws. I'm lazy.
I have the same code and lights on my gauge cluster. Did the codes ever come back, or was your issue resolved completely?
Once I replaced the part and cleared the code, the issue was resolved.
So far, the code hasn't came back... yet.
Over the past few years, I've had to replace the valve on Bank 1 twice so I anticipate the possibility of having to do Bank 2 again sometime in the future.
This is because of a design flaw on the air system intake tubes that go into the air pumps and eventually the valves.
The pumps could also eventually fail, which is a much bigger job to repair.
The open ended tubes allow water to enter the valves during wet, hard driving weather and that water causes the valves to fail.
I'm not a mechanic but forced myself to learn to do simple repairs and save a bunch of money if I could.
I hope the video helps!
@@barrygardner67 thanks for the reply! I’ve heard from others that they keep replacing components to the air system - seems like a very common issue.
My friend has the same problem and it keeps going bad on him. I heard spraying WD-40 down the valve hose would fix that.
Well done boss
What are the symptoms of this? My truck is in limp mode or something and won’t accelerate over 65- same code.
Those are exactly the symptoms.
@@barrygardner67 thank you.
@@FAHnGirl You're welcome.
I hope it helps!
Is it the same for a 4.7l v8 tundra?
I'm honestly not sure.
I have the 4.6 L V8 and that's what my experience learning has been with.
I know there is a major difference with the 5.7 L V8 and the 4.6 L V8 but I'm sure the 4.7 shouldn't be too different.
But again, I'm honestly not sure.
Where do you get your parts? Calling the local Toyota dealer is never a pleasant experience as they want you to use their service department and pay the 2k-3k?
I agree completely and try to avoid dealing with Toyota if at all possible.
Depending on the part, I’ve shopped around O’Reilly’s, Advance Auto Parts and Amazon.
I always read reviews to determine the best value and look at other people’s experiences.
The last time I changed the valve on bank one, it was an OEM Toyota part I got from Amazon at a much better price than Toyota would have charged me.
When I did this one, bank two, I got it from Amazon as well but it was an aftermarket part, not OEM.
Stop wasting money repairing these parts, they will fail again. Go to Hewitt industries and get a bypass kit that is simple to install and will end this issue forever. The only function of this system is to pump fresh air into the catalytic converter for 45 seconds when you start the engine for emission standards. I waisted my money replacing the pumps and valves and it happened again a year later. I have had it bypassed for 6 years and never had an issue. Replacing these parts is a waist of money and time.
@@rattown99 will it stop throwing the code if you don’t replace the secondary air flow sensor?
I left all the worn out parts in tack, the bypass kit comes with plates that go under the valves and the kit totally bypasses all of the sensor inputs. You will never regret it.
Thanks for the video, my truck is showing bank 1, but I'm going to do both. I'm pretty sure they will both be in similar condition.
You're welcome! Bank 1 is definitely easier because you have to remove the stuff in the way for Bank 2 but when it comes to swapping out the actual parts, they're basically the same! Good Luck!
@@barrygardner67
Do we need to change pump also
Or only the valve
@@omarmurad4763 You shouldn’t have to replace the pump. There’s a different code for that.
However, sometime down the road, you may have to replace the pumps.
As of now, I haven’t had to replace the pumps and I’m really not looking forward to have to! 😎
@@barrygardner67
Exactly,Mr barry there is no code for the pump, only I have two code p2440 Valve Stuck Open Bank 1
and p2442 Valve Stuck Open Bank 2
but the dealership’s spare parts department told me that the valves and the pump come together, and if I want to get the pump later, the price will be more. Because in their view, all three pieces must be replaced
@@barrygardner67
I checked the electricity of the pump and it works. I am confused😕😅