Thank you so very much Jose. We watched your video a few times. We followed your instructions and spent a little over $200 for the part. After we replaced the part and reset the code, my husband called the dealer for a price comparison. You saved us a minimum of $1750.00 in labor charges. “Absolutely Amazing” Thanks for making our week soooo much better and, teaching us a lesson to boot! You also have made a case for dealing with smaller local businesses. You might find a bit of integrity that the dealership is obviously lacking. You rock!
Thank you brotha for the video. It helped me out tremendously! I have a 2007 tundra 4.7 and got the dreaded p2442 code. I to live in California so I didn’t bother changing out my pump. I ordered my part from rock auto($117) and followed your video steps and problem fixed. Much appreciated!! To anyone reading these comments, please don’t take your truck to the dealer for this easy fix. You will get burned so hard. This fix is easier than changing your oil or changing your spark plugs. It took me about 15 minutes to do only because I never have done it before and I was being extra cautious. The dealer was going to charge me anywhere between $1700 to $2600 depending on parts and labor. Anyone can fix this problem.
That’s man!!! I have a 2008 tundra with 175000 miles on it. The dealer replaced the pump and the 2 air check valves at 980000 miles and it was covered under their extended warranty. Apparently this is a issue with the tundra. Dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and went into limp mode. They wanted $2200 to fix it a second time not 75000 miles later. I replaced the air check valve just like in this video and the check engine light is off. Only $250. I appreciate it!!!
Working on a 08 Tundra with an 4.7 in it! Removed valve to see trash and moisture! Pulled the hose fro. Other side and it is clean! It was throughing code p2440!
True. I was aware of it when the 1st time a pump went out on the truck but the dealership didn't want to replace it at that time. The truck was at 149k miles and they said it wasn't covered by warranty. Once they changed their minds, the truck was passed 150k miles and used that excuse to not change it. So I've been doing all the AIP stuff my self. Truck is at around 320k miles now lol
Had a P2440 code and Check Engine light on my '05 Tacoma. "Secondary Air valve stuck open". Finally found a source to buy one without breaking my bank ($140) and ordered one. Meanwhile thinking "why can't this thing be UNstuck?". I pulled off the hose that runs from the smog pump to the valve at the valve inlet port and squirted a couple ounces of Mercury Quicksilver (an amazing product designed to de-gick marine engines) into it. Let it sit overnight, cleared codes with my ODBII gizmo and drove the truck to town and back. The CEL never came back on. Now I'm debating whether to keep the new valve or return/sell it. I can do this 30 second repair a BUNCH of times with a ten dollar can of liquid magic! Editing: Forgot to mention my Toy is a 2.7L 4 banger so it just has one 'bank'.
عندي تندرا كلفتني قريب ١٠ الاف بسبب هذا الكود ولم تنحل المشكله. وتم اكتشاف الخلل بمجهود شخصي مني .وبدون تكلف وفي خلال دقيقه تم الاصلاح. تحيه للمكانيك العرب ! افكر ابييع المعلومه
Thanks for the video. This fixed my 08 Tundra. Just a suggestion though. Replace the entire assembly. It will only take a few more minutes and was pretty simple to do. Thanks again!
I know, I was just lazy and wanted to get out of the sun lol. I have already replaced the base a few times. Thanks for watching the video though, I appreciate it 😁🤙
@@stewartellenberg5424 this is the 4th time I think? Changed the pumps too, I personally think it's just a crappy design. Truck is almost at 400k miles too so it doesn't bother us at this point.
I have the p1445 and 1442 it says secondary air injectoction switching valve bank 1 and 2 are stuck closed. Are they different from these valve? I know there are 2 more valve behinds the intake manifold. Please help :(
One air injection pump is on the upper right fender and the other air injection pump is located under the intake. Typically, the air injection pump located under the right fender well goes bad due to moisture that corrodes the pump. Other manufacturers also use air injection pumps to meet federal and state emissions standards. There is a kit to bypass the air pumps on the 5.7 liter Toyota engine. Look under Hewitt-tech and watch closely on how to order and install. Good luck, Tundras are rock solid trucks.....
where did you buy the valve and what was the part number for it? i heard you say you got it at oreillys but I can’t find it on their website, only the secondary air injection pump, same on rock auto and on toyota oem parts the valve is 600 dollars, please let me know! btw im looking for it for a V6 tundra, thanks
I got it at O'Riley's. I don't know the part number, i just googled secondary injection valve and this popped up. Hope this helps. www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engine-sensors---emissions/emissions---air-management/secondary-air-injection-check-valve/49ee933aeefd/v/a/28874/automotive-truck-2008-toyota-tundra
I had to replace my bank 1 valve recently but now I want to switch out the other side, do I have to specify bank 2 when ordering it or will the same valve work on either side
If I remember correctly, the valve is the same but the lower portion might be different. It's been a while so I don't remember the specifics at the moment.
My 07 tundra 4.7 got the same code it says secondary air injection system switching valve bank 1 stuck open ? So does that mean I should change the same exact one you are changing plz respond asap
@@Joseochoa2one3 bank 1 is the one u changed on the drivers side I was just wondering if what popped up on my code scanner could be or maybe it popped up for u aswell I just went to buy the part right now hopefully that’s the problem
@@Joseochoa2one3 I just put the new part in same exact one on the driver side but after were your check engine , vsc and traction control lights on ??!!?? Plz lmk asap
I'll agree just changing the moving parts are quicker. Changing the whole valve is a little bit of a pain but not more than 30 min if you take your time electrical connector first, hose,2 exhaust nuts (10mm), 3 housing mount nuts(12mm) bottom with small head box deep socket upper 2 after hose is disconnected gently push exhaust away just enough to clear studs, remove as an assembly A reason to remove whole thing...may invalidate warranty if you split new valve otherwise to just to get the truck moving again, follow Joses post
Hey Jose, great video. Also, who was the artist that sang that song at the end of your video? I tried to Shazam it but it didn’t pull up the song or artist.
Jose did you fix the intake hose to put the shroud/snorkel on it? I thought I had the right one but my truck only has a single hose and I can’t find a single with the shroud on it. I replaced my valve and might have to replace the pump as it was FULL of water and I’m now throwing the 2447 code but so far out of limp mode. I would like to do something to prevent this from happening again and cover the intake.
Hey Jose. My friend replaced the pump but when he pulled the harness ,wires came out it. We don't know how they where .can you send me a picture how they are at you truck
Oye jose abajo de eso esta una bujia para cambiarla ay que quitar esa parte que cambiaste verdad es que quiero cambiar la bujias pero mire que eso hace estorbo que me puedes decir sobre eso
Are both the pumps the same? I have the 4.7 also. My driver side valve was stuck shut. I forced it open but no change. I also hear some exhaust leak coming from maybe a hose or something under the intake. Any insight would be appreciated
Yeah they are the same. The air pump has a hose that sucks in air, you can probably just hear that? Can't tell you for sure with out being there in person.
@@Joseochoa2one3 well once I forced that valve to stay open it got louder after being put together and ran. It sounds like it's under the intake. I will find out today
if the valve (s) is stuck open..got to be something causing this..I was told my Injection pumps are probably full of water and need to replaced also. You are saying you've done this before on this truck, why haven't you checked the air pumps? That valve (s) is about 260.00 + tax at O' Reilly's and will get expensive if you need to do this every couple of months. Or even better do a bypass....
The pumps get filled with water if it rains a lot in your area. It doesn't rain often here, like a week out of the year, so it's not a big problem for us. I have checked the pumps, that's why I know they get filled with water lol. The valve in this video is from O'Reillys, they have warrenty so you can just take it back and get another one, I have done this a few times with out paying. Just annoying when the CEL comes up. The truck belongs to my dad, he doesn't want a bypass so he doesn't have to deal with smog.
@@brian10garcia Yup! I had to change the passenger side one a few years back. It's a little annoying to get to, as it sits behind the fender liner, but you can do it fairly easily.
lol We drive a lot, out drove the warranty miles limit in about 3 or 4 years. When the 1st pump went out, the truck had 149k miles and the dealer didn't want to fix it. We kept driving the truck and filed a complaint. When they finally decided to fix it, we had passed 150k miles and they said no again. It was a crappy situation but I got over it and fixed it myself. Yeah the Smog related stuff should be covered by 10 years or 150k miles if I remember correctly.
Good video Jose, would this be the same steps for a 2012 Tundra as well? My check engine light and Trac Off lights are on and I have sluggish power with code P2440
I found out from the dealer, when this happens the computer goes to limp mode. It will act like the catylitic convertor is clogged. It is only the truck operating in a safe mode. When fixed or code is cleared, it will return to normal. They also recommended the by pass as well. I asked them if they were recommending the by pass, why not recall it. Toyota refuses to do so. Thanks for the info folks and hope mine helped as well.
Hi, Jose, or whoever can answer my question. I have a 2008 totyota tundra 5.7 which has erro codes of P0300, P0304, and P0307. I've replaced all eight spark plugs, ignition coils, the 4th fuel ignition valve, cleaned both the throttle body, maf sensor and put seafoam in the crank case, gas tank, and air hose. I still get these codes. I took the truck to a mechanic and he feels it's not worth salvaging this truck. is there anything else I can do. Please let me know. Thank you in advance!
@@Joseochoa2one3 did you mean the fuel injectors. I used the odb scanner and it said p0300 p0304 and p0306. The o2 sensors were ok but it said something about the evaporative fuel system failed. What does that mean? Please let me know. Thank you for getting back to me.
@@nelsonmarcano2201 I have no idea what that means. Not the same model as mine, so I don't actually know how yours works. I googled the codes and i just found misfire info. So if you changed the plugs, coil packs and everything else you mentioned, I would check the injectors as well.
jimmy the code its self tells you which bank the issue is on. This code is spesific to the driver side. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions 😁
Nick Stosz Ahhh I see. Sorry I thought it was the same, i just looked it up online and you are correct. I haven't seen a 5.7 in at least 6 years so my memory on them is a bit fuzzy. Sorry that this video doesn't help, if I work on a 5.7 then id be happy to make a video but I don't know anyone with one so something like that won't happen soon.
There are bypass kits sold online. A quick fix i did was to disconnect the battery, press on the brake pedal for about 10 seconds then reconnect the battery and turn it back on. Only works for the 1st drive(50ish miles). I just kept doing this until we got replacement parts.
If I remember correctly, while not a big deal in my mind, the exhaust gases can leak out through that way. I drove with mine like that for a few months and didn't notice anything else go wrong. I did have to get the truck out of limp mode almost every day to keep driving it, which was very annoying. Obviously I recommend fixing it asap, but I did still drive mine even though I couldn't fix it on the spot. If your truck is under 150k miles or 10 years, I would suggest taking it to the dealer to have them fix it. Hope this helps!
@@Joseochoa2one3 the code just popped up last night, an so far it hasn't switched over to "limp" mode, at least I don't notice anything different with drivability. Truck is a 2013 with just under 94k. I called the local dealer, they said it isn't in any recall. Thanks for the quick reply btw.
@@phillip8351 I disconnected the negative side of the battery, then press the brakes for about 10 seconds. You want the power to drain out of the trucks ecu. It wipes all the codes and your 1st start up should be with out the truck in limp mode. I had to do this everytime I drove the truck though, so it's annoying.
Quick question about this Secondary Air Injection Valve, do you know if this valve use a integrated sensor to read air flow ? I asking you because I have a 07 tundra 4.7 and I have a P2437 code ( Secondary Air Injection System air flow, Sensor Circuit Low Bank 2 ) but I didn't see any sensor before or after this you know, I assuming that sensor maybe is inside the valve but let me know your opinion please.
I was able to pull these and clean them about 2 times each which bought my about 8 months time before they finally went out. The first time I looked to buy both sides it was about $700 then when I actually did buy them the price went down $200.
That's weird. Could be your ISP? The video pretty much just shows me removing the vlave with a torx. it has 4 bolts and a hose. It takes a few mins to remove.
Did a quick search on oreilly's site, # 911-622. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-oe-solutions-3387/fuel---emissions-16775/emission-smog-parts-16465/secondary-air-injection-check-valve-15616/4e79935288f6/dorman-oe-solutions-valve/911622/4259289/2008/toyota/tundra?q=Secondary+Air+Injection+Check+Valve&pos=0
$3700 dealer quote for this. My dealer is offering the Joe Biden prices…..everything double…not even giving me a $1200 “stimulus check” before doubling the prices for everything!
Yours maybe fails because you need to change the whole thing including the bottom, not just the top, that's what I did, and it took me about 20 minutes for the whole thing.
Toyota es mejor que Chevy / ford / dodge. Or que los digo solo pq tengo una tundra 2011 excelente motor y demás Las demás marcas mencionadas ya las tube y nada que ver con la Toyota La Ford se jode antes de 100 mil millas La Chevy es buena La dodge más océanos
If you're talking about the thumbnail, that's just clickbaity fun. While I have had some negative experiences with the toyota dealerships in the past, this video isn't to tarnish toyota but instead teach anyone viewing it how to fix a common issue. I don't understand what ford, chevy or dodge have to do with this video, but I like them too. Thanks for watching my video :).
Ya lo dudo que toyota sea la mejor con este problema de las pompas de inyección corre más rápido un carro de mulas. Yo ya estoy dudando de toyota. Es un problema bastante costoso y ahora me doy cuenta que es muy común en las Toyotas y eso habla mal de toyota.
Thank you so very much Jose. We watched your video a few times. We followed your instructions and spent a little over $200 for the part. After we replaced the part and reset the code, my husband called the dealer for a price comparison. You saved us a minimum of $1750.00 in labor charges. “Absolutely Amazing” Thanks for making our week soooo much better and, teaching us a lesson to boot! You also have made a case for dealing with smaller local businesses. You might find a bit of integrity that the dealership is obviously lacking. You rock!
In Lagrange GA they quoted me $2,200 yesterday !
Thank you brotha for the video. It helped me out tremendously! I have a 2007 tundra 4.7 and got the dreaded p2442 code. I to live in California so I didn’t bother changing out my pump. I ordered my part from rock auto($117) and followed your video steps and problem fixed. Much appreciated!!
To anyone reading these comments, please don’t take your truck to the dealer for this easy fix. You will get burned so hard. This fix is easier than changing your oil or changing your spark plugs. It took me about 15 minutes to do only because I never have done it before and I was being extra cautious. The dealer was going to charge me anywhere between $1700 to $2600 depending on parts and labor. Anyone can fix this problem.
That’s man!!! I have a 2008 tundra with 175000 miles on it. The dealer replaced the pump and the 2 air check valves at 980000 miles and it was covered under their extended warranty. Apparently this is a issue with the tundra. Dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and went into limp mode. They wanted $2200 to fix it a second time not 75000 miles later. I replaced the air check valve just like in this video and the check engine light is off. Only $250. I appreciate it!!!
Working on a 08 Tundra with an 4.7 in it! Removed valve to see trash and moisture! Pulled the hose fro. Other side and it is clean! It was throughing code p2440!
so did cleaning it fix it or what's the conclusion??
what was the part number you used?
O'Reillys, Autozone, and Advance AP didn't have a secondary air injection switching valve for my 2007 Toyota Tacoma 4 cyl. engine.
Love the title of the video. "Toyota sucks" because your 320k mile Toyota engine keeps needing a cheap aftermarket AIP valve from O'Reilly's. Legit!
Is this the same part that causes the P2442 code?
Location is easy on yours. I have an 07 and need to remove the intake plenum to replace them 😏. Good video👍🏽👍🏽
Got an 07 4.7 with the 2440 code; which side is Bank 1?
Toyota fixes this under 10yr/150k miles. Just got mine fixed by Toyota but it good to know what they did. Thanks for the vid.
True. I was aware of it when the 1st time a pump went out on the truck but the dealership didn't want to replace it at that time. The truck was at 149k miles and they said it wasn't covered by warranty. Once they changed their minds, the truck was passed 150k miles and used that excuse to not change it. So I've been doing all the AIP stuff my self. Truck is at around 320k miles now lol
Is this true? I just found this code on my 2010 Tundra w 67K miles. Heard horror stories about costs involved in this repair.
It was for me. I only heard about it though another youtube video's comments while trying to see how to fix this myself.
Yeah, it's true. Head on over to the dealer and have them fix it.
Yes it was taken care of by the dealer. Thanks
How much for the part I have a 2008 toyota tundra crewmax 4x4 5.7 liter v-8
Had a P2440 code and Check Engine light on my '05 Tacoma. "Secondary Air valve stuck open". Finally found a source to buy one without breaking my bank ($140) and ordered one. Meanwhile
thinking "why can't this thing be UNstuck?". I pulled off the hose that runs from the
smog pump to the valve at the valve inlet port and squirted a couple ounces of Mercury
Quicksilver (an amazing product designed to de-gick marine engines) into it. Let it
sit overnight, cleared codes with my ODBII gizmo and drove the truck to town and back.
The CEL never came back on. Now I'm debating whether to keep the new valve or return/sell
it. I can do this 30 second repair a BUNCH of times with a ten dollar can of liquid magic!
Editing: Forgot to mention my Toy is a 2.7L 4 banger so it just has one 'bank'.
Do you mind sharing a pic of the exact product. Just got this code and gonna try your fix first
I have same code. It also says secondary valve is stuck open. So, did you replace the one he shows on the video or the secondary injection valve?
On that secondary air injector system switch valve was that bank one
عندي تندرا كلفتني قريب ١٠ الاف بسبب هذا الكود ولم تنحل المشكله. وتم اكتشاف الخلل بمجهود شخصي مني .وبدون تكلف وفي خلال دقيقه تم الاصلاح. تحيه للمكانيك العرب !
افكر ابييع المعلومه
Yea what he said
Thanks for the video. This fixed my 08 Tundra. Just a suggestion though. Replace the entire assembly. It will only take a few more minutes and was pretty simple to do. Thanks again!
I know, I was just lazy and wanted to get out of the sun lol. I have already replaced the base a few times. Thanks for watching the video though, I appreciate it 😁🤙
@@Joseochoa2one3
How often have you had to do this? It makes me wonder if your pump assembly has water in it which is causing periodic failures.
@@stewartellenberg5424 this is the 4th time I think? Changed the pumps too, I personally think it's just a crappy design. Truck is almost at 400k miles too so it doesn't bother us at this point.
@@Joseochoa2one3 Jose can you link the part you swapped out?
I have the p1445 and 1442 it says secondary air injectoction switching valve bank 1 and 2 are stuck closed. Are they different from these valve? I know there are 2 more valve behinds the intake manifold. Please help :(
Nope, this would be one of the two valves. The other valve is on the opposite side, similar to take off.
One air injection pump is on the upper right fender and the other air injection pump is located under the intake. Typically, the air injection pump located under the right fender well goes bad due to moisture that corrodes the pump. Other manufacturers also use air injection pumps to meet federal and state emissions standards. There is a kit to bypass the air pumps on the 5.7 liter Toyota engine. Look under Hewitt-tech and watch closely on how to order and install. Good luck, Tundras are rock solid trucks.....
I've replaced the pumps a few times already, not that hard. Yeah they are! This one is almost at 500k miles haha. I might get a diesel soon though
You can buy the bypass kit cheaper. 400 bucks. Installed maybe 1 hour. Its cheaper than 2 valves and a pump, and who knows what else.... good luck!
where did you buy the valve and what was the part number for it? i heard you say you got it at oreillys but I can’t find it on their website, only the secondary air injection pump, same on rock auto and on toyota oem parts the valve is 600 dollars, please let me know! btw im looking for it for a V6 tundra, thanks
I got it at O'Riley's. I don't know the part number, i just googled secondary injection valve and this popped up. Hope this helps.
www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engine-sensors---emissions/emissions---air-management/secondary-air-injection-check-valve/49ee933aeefd/v/a/28874/automotive-truck-2008-toyota-tundra
I had to replace my bank 1 valve recently but now I want to switch out the other side, do I have to specify bank 2 when ordering it or will the same valve work on either side
If I remember correctly, the valve is the same but the lower portion might be different. It's been a while so I don't remember the specifics at the moment.
No problem, thanks anyway
My 07 tundra 4.7 got the same code it says secondary air injection system switching valve bank 1 stuck open ? So does that mean I should change the same exact one you are changing plz respond asap
I don't remember off the top of my head what side is bank one, but yes. The video is the same for both sides btw.
@@Joseochoa2one3 bank 1 is the one u changed on the drivers side I was just wondering if what popped up on my code scanner could be or maybe it popped up for u aswell I just went to buy the part right now hopefully that’s the problem
@@Joseochoa2one3 I just put the new part in same exact one on the driver side but after were your check engine , vsc and traction control lights on ??!!?? Plz lmk asap
@@0v0JAY7 no? Try resetting the ECU. Disconnect the battery, hold the brakes for about 10 seconds then reconnect the battery and turn it on.
I'll agree just changing the moving parts are quicker.
Changing the whole valve is a little bit of a pain but not more than 30 min if you take your time
electrical connector first, hose,2 exhaust nuts (10mm), 3 housing mount nuts(12mm) bottom with small head box deep socket upper 2
after hose is disconnected gently push exhaust away just enough to clear studs, remove as an assembly
A reason to remove whole thing...may invalidate warranty if you split new valve
otherwise to just to get the truck moving again, follow Joses post
Thank you so much. You saved me a heck of money.
Hey Jose, great video. Also, who was the artist that sang that song at the end of your video? I tried to Shazam it but it didn’t pull up the song or artist.
The last song before the outro is called pillow talk by XIXX if I remember correctly. If you're talking about the outro song, then that's me :)
Do you know if the 2007 4.7L engine is set up the same way?
Yes, same engine.
John Sullivan
I hope so. All of my lights just came on and I have that code. What is the name of the part?
I need the video on the 2.7L. Does anyone know where that one is?
Jose did you fix the intake hose to put the shroud/snorkel on it? I thought I had the right one but my truck only has a single hose and I can’t find a single with the shroud on it. I replaced my valve and might have to replace the pump as it was FULL of water and I’m now throwing the 2447 code but so far out of limp mode. I would like to do something to prevent this from happening again and cover the intake.
Sorry for the late response. I didn't, I live near the Mojave desert so it doesn't rain often lol. I have heard of others doing such things though.
What SAI valve did you use? Part number? thank you
DOR-911-622
Does the passenger side remove just as easy?
Would changing the valve also fix code P2442? which side is Bank 2? Thanks
each bank has it's own valve
Hey Jose. My friend replaced the pump but when he pulled the harness ,wires came out it. We don't know how they where .can you send me a picture how they are at you truck
Oye jose abajo de eso esta una bujia para cambiarla ay que quitar esa parte que cambiaste verdad es que quiero cambiar la bujias pero mire que eso hace estorbo que me puedes decir sobre eso
What’s the name and part number of the valve?
Are both the pumps the same? I have the 4.7 also. My driver side valve was stuck shut. I forced it open but no change. I also hear some exhaust leak coming from maybe a hose or something under the intake. Any insight would be appreciated
Yeah they are the same. The air pump has a hose that sucks in air, you can probably just hear that? Can't tell you for sure with out being there in person.
@@Joseochoa2one3 well once I forced that valve to stay open it got louder after being put together and ran. It sounds like it's under the intake. I will find out today
My truck VSC light came on . Thinking that's is what going on with my 08 tundra .
Buy the bypass kit
if the valve (s) is stuck open..got to be something causing this..I was told my Injection pumps are probably full of water and need to replaced also. You are saying you've done this before on this truck, why haven't you checked the air pumps? That valve (s) is about 260.00 + tax at O' Reilly's and will get expensive if you need to do this every couple of months. Or even better do a bypass....
The pumps get filled with water if it rains a lot in your area. It doesn't rain often here, like a week out of the year, so it's not a big problem for us. I have checked the pumps, that's why I know they get filled with water lol. The valve in this video is from O'Reillys, they have warrenty so you can just take it back and get another one, I have done this a few times with out paying. Just annoying when the CEL comes up. The truck belongs to my dad, he doesn't want a bypass so he doesn't have to deal with smog.
@@Joseochoa2one3 another vid..guys says drill a small hole in the bottom of the rubber cups on pumps. I might try that also..thanks for the vid!
is that part the secondary air inj pump??
Secondary Air Injection Valve. The pump's are located under the front fenders on this truck.
ever changed them?
@@brian10garcia Yup! I had to change the passenger side one a few years back. It's a little annoying to get to, as it sits behind the fender liner, but you can do it fairly easily.
@@Joseochoa2one3 guess you didn't have a warranty on the truck? cause wouldn't that be covered?
lol We drive a lot, out drove the warranty
miles limit in about 3 or 4 years. When the 1st pump went out, the truck had 149k miles and the dealer didn't want to fix it. We kept driving the truck and filed a complaint. When they finally decided to fix it, we had passed 150k miles and they said no again. It was a crappy situation but I got over it and fixed it myself. Yeah the Smog related stuff should be covered by 10 years or 150k miles if I remember correctly.
Good video Jose, would this be the same steps for a 2012 Tundra as well? My check engine light and Trac Off lights are on and I have sluggish power with code P2440
Not 100% sure, but I think all the tundras from 07-13 that have a 2UZ (4.7L engine) should be the same.
Did you find out I'd this worked on yours? I have a 2010 that is doing exactly what you are saying but I was told to change the pump.
I have a 16 4Runner and it started losing power as well plus the same code
I found out from the dealer, when this happens the computer goes to limp mode. It will act like the catylitic convertor is clogged. It is only the truck operating in a safe mode. When fixed or code is cleared, it will return to normal. They also recommended the by pass as well. I asked them if they were recommending the by pass, why not recall it. Toyota refuses to do so. Thanks for the info folks and hope mine helped as well.
@@adamholcombe2239 what’s the bypass? Thx
Este cambio si te arreglo el problema amigo?
Hi, Jose, or whoever can answer my question. I have a 2008 totyota tundra 5.7 which has erro codes of P0300, P0304, and P0307. I've replaced all eight spark plugs, ignition coils, the 4th fuel ignition valve, cleaned both the throttle body, maf sensor and put seafoam in the crank case, gas tank, and air hose. I still get these codes. I took the truck to a mechanic and he feels it's not worth salvaging this truck. is there anything else I can do. Please let me know. Thank you in advance!
Did you check your injectors?
@@Joseochoa2one3 did you mean the fuel injectors. I used the odb scanner and it said p0300 p0304 and p0306. The o2 sensors were ok but it said something about the evaporative fuel system failed. What does that mean? Please let me know. Thank you for getting back to me.
@@nelsonmarcano2201 I have no idea what that means. Not the same model as mine, so I don't actually know how yours works. I googled the codes and i just found misfire info. So if you changed the plugs, coil packs and everything else you mentioned, I would check the injectors as well.
@@Joseochoa2one3 I changed the 4th fuel injector and it still had the codes.
@@nelsonmarcano2201 Yeah not to sure then bud. Try hitting up the tundra forums, i'm sure some one there would be able to help you out.
I think I have two on one side, is that strange
How much does the Part cost ??
about 200.00 ea
Thanks for posting this, I just got the dreaded P2440 on my 2011. How do you know which one is bad? Or do you always replace them both?
jimmy the code its self tells you which bank the issue is on. This code is spesific to the driver side. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions 😁
That was the 4.7 right? I need video for the 5.7
Nick Stosz Same process
Jose Ochoa Mine is under the intake and it says to replace both pumps at same time too.
Nick Stosz Ahhh I see. Sorry I thought it was the same, i just looked it up online and you are correct. I haven't seen a 5.7 in at least 6 years so my memory on them is a bit fuzzy. Sorry that this video doesn't help, if I work on a 5.7 then id be happy to make a video but I don't know anyone with one so something like that won't happen soon.
Jose Ochoa I appreciate your response and time, have a good one.
dang my bank one valve has the hose bracket on it...cannot get to the nut!! How did u get the original bracket off?
10mm wrench if I remember correctly.
Jose,HOW CAN I BYPASS MY p2440 on my toyota tundra?
There are bypass kits sold online. A quick fix i did was to disconnect the battery, press on the brake pedal for about 10 seconds then reconnect the battery and turn it back on. Only works for the 1st drive(50ish miles). I just kept doing this until we got replacement parts.
Do you have to change out the secondary air pump too if you're changing that out also
No, but it doesn't hurt to check on it and see if it's filled with water.
Did you purchase the top and bottom? I can’t seem to find just the top part
they dont sell just the top part, he bought both but only take the top.
I have 08 5.7 crewmax limited
Will it hurt the truck if its driven while stuck open?
If I remember correctly, while not a big deal in my mind, the exhaust gases can leak out through that way. I drove with mine like that for a few months and didn't notice anything else go wrong. I did have to get the truck out of limp mode almost every day to keep driving it, which was very annoying. Obviously I recommend fixing it asap, but I did still drive mine even though I couldn't fix it on the spot.
If your truck is under 150k miles or 10 years, I would suggest taking it to the dealer to have them fix it. Hope this helps!
@@Joseochoa2one3 the code just popped up last night, an so far it hasn't switched over to "limp" mode, at least I don't notice anything different with drivability.
Truck is a 2013 with just under 94k.
I called the local dealer, they said it isn't in any recall.
Thanks for the quick reply btw.
@@GEOCAR33 there is a service bulletin out..google it
@@Joseochoa2one3 how did you get it out of limp mode?
@@phillip8351 I disconnected the negative side of the battery, then press the brakes for about 10 seconds. You want the power to drain out of the trucks ecu. It wipes all the codes and your 1st start up should be with out the truck in limp mode. I had to do this everytime I drove the truck though, so it's annoying.
Quick question about this Secondary Air Injection Valve, do you know if this valve use a integrated sensor to read air flow ? I asking you because I have a 07 tundra 4.7 and I have a P2437 code ( Secondary Air Injection System air flow, Sensor Circuit Low Bank 2 ) but I didn't see any sensor before or after this you know, I assuming that sensor maybe is inside the valve but let me know your opinion please.
The valve has a pressure sensor built into it.
Which means you have to replace the whole thing.
So did you replace both valves or just show one being replaced?
Just the one being shown. I have replaced the other bank's valve in the past, but it's the same thing.
How much was it?
Do you need to replace both?
If both are broken, then sure. If one still works, then you can leave it for now if you want.
@@Joseochoa2one3 hey bro are they the exact same part for the other side?
@@jorgeval753 Not sure? They look the same to me, but I don't actually know.
What's the issues?
Where you buy the valve?
Got it at orileys, you should be able to get it at most auto parts stores.
@@Joseochoa2one3 you have a part number or proper name of part?
@@TheGregh1977 Air injection valve. No idea on the part number.
That is a good work. I like it!
how did u order the part,
Went to my local parts store (O'REILLY)
I was able to pull these and clean them about 2 times each which bought my about 8 months time before they finally went out. The first time I looked to buy both sides it was about $700 then when I actually did buy them the price went down $200.
Nice! It definitely saves a lot of money doing it yourself.
@@Joseochoa2one3 yes sir, the dealership quoted me $2300 to change both of them.
Thank you for this
No tenes ese video en español latino
My friend l have been trying to see the whole video. But l can't it stops after some seconds. Before you start showing how to remove the part.
That's weird. Could be your ISP? The video pretty much just shows me removing the vlave with a torx. it has 4 bolts and a hose. It takes a few mins to remove.
Do you know the part number/name from o’reillys.? They could not find it..
Did a quick search on oreilly's site, # 911-622.
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-oe-solutions-3387/fuel---emissions-16775/emission-smog-parts-16465/secondary-air-injection-check-valve-15616/4e79935288f6/dorman-oe-solutions-valve/911622/4259289/2008/toyota/tundra?q=Secondary+Air+Injection+Check+Valve&pos=0
Jose Ochoa Thank you
Jose Ochoa
is it true when one go bad you have to replace both of them not just the bad one?
Must be nice, I wish the 5.7 was that easy.
Yeah, the 5.7 is INSANE.
For some reason I can't get your video to load completly
on the 2007 5.7 the assholes put them under the intake manifold
And if you pull the whole valve on both sides, change the spark plugs, the valves cover 2 spark plugs
$3700 dealer quote for this. My dealer is offering the Joe Biden prices…..everything double…not even giving me a $1200 “stimulus check” before doubling the prices for everything!
Buy OEM parts and won't have so many problems. They cost more but they are worth it.
Yours maybe fails because you need to change the whole thing including the bottom, not just the top, that's what I did, and it took me about 20 minutes for the whole thing.
How can I bypass mine if should incase I can't afford it now?
Gracias José
Mine looks similar to the one in this video.
a mechanic shop, they’re charging me $2000 to remplace it,
wow that's crazy haha. I haven't paid a shop to do any work in almost 10 years, so I have no idea how much it should normally cost.
Had mine go out
The valve is about $550. The pump is about $400. Bad design. Bypass it and be done (it still passes smog). If only Honda made pickups.
Do you still have to repair Or replace the valve before you install bypass kit
@@Bobak24 Neither.
Next time just buy F-150 and junk it at 100K. You will stop complaining about 300K Tundra.
If you're talking about the thumb nail. It's click bait. I designed it that way to draw in more people to my video...Welcome to the internet :).
Sorta like the Tacoma 2010
Toyota es mejor que Chevy / ford / dodge. Or que los digo solo pq tengo una tundra 2011 excelente motor y demás
Las demás marcas mencionadas ya las tube y nada que ver con la Toyota
La Ford se jode antes de 100 mil millas
La Chevy es buena
La dodge más océanos
If you're talking about the thumbnail, that's just clickbaity fun. While I have had some negative experiences with the toyota dealerships in the past, this video isn't to tarnish toyota but instead teach anyone viewing it how to fix a common issue. I don't understand what ford, chevy or dodge have to do with this video, but I like them too. Thanks for watching my video :).
Ya lo dudo que toyota sea la mejor con este problema de las pompas de inyección corre más rápido un carro de mulas. Yo ya estoy dudando de toyota. Es un problema bastante costoso y ahora me doy cuenta que es muy común en las Toyotas y eso habla mal de toyota.
You're only doing half the job if the top of the valve is pooched, then the bottom is done as well.