It would be nice if you could show the whole circuit diagram on a piece of paper, so people could have a better understanding of how to hook it all up. On my Toyota 4 cylinder engine, I just replaced the part. If your switching valve is underneath the intake manifold, I can see why you would want to use a bypass system.
Bump on this video. For 05 Toyota Sequoia 4.7L, the MAS airflow wire you need to split is the Yellow/green stripe. Live in CA, performed this bypass for code p2441, and it passed smog today. Good video!😂
I tried this method as soon as I found three error codes that were showing up related to SAIS. My truck never actually went in limp mode before I installed this system. I spent about $80 on all the parts/tools and installed everything just like this video. Ultimately, the codes would go away and come back and it would even throw it in limp mode. This might have been from my lack of crimping skills. About five - seven different occasions I tried to adjust the wiring and crimps but it ended blowing a small starter related fuse. I decided to buy and install the Hewitt bypass system. The installation went smoothly and is holding. I got the blocking plates in as well. I had to backtrack to correctly splice and crimp the yellow/black wires back tightly as when it was loose would throw it into limp again.
You need to do this bypass before you get any errors on your SAIS system. Once you have the codes you have some valve or reeds that are now stuck and will constantly throw a error. Which is why its important to do this before the errors start happening.
Not sure. We don't have emission testing in my state. I'm not sure what all they check for. I just wanted to fix the check engine light and bypass the air injection process on cold start up.
Thanks for sharing . The AIP bypass link he followed (the google link) is not working anymore. Do you happen to have this info still? Will this work on a tundra v6 4.0? I have a p2442 stuck open switching valve so I need blocking plates . Thanks
I just answered my own question. Yes it works on the 4.0 v6 . install went smooth. the way it works is very simple . It temporary ,during cranking ,disables the intake air sensor and consequently disables the SIA.
Great video! Thanks a lot! I wonder if you can share the original instruction for the 4.7L Tundra, since I have a 5.7L, it may be wired differently. I will try to figure out how I could imitate the instruction on my 2008 5.7L. Thanks again!
The resistor and the green wire was crimped together and went onto one of the pins on the relay. The resistor was on a seperate connector that also went to a pin on the relay. The other end of the green wire went somewhere else.
@@howiedang perfect thanks! Still no issue with the system? The codes popped on me I haven’t been driving my truck for the past 2 weeks trying to figure it out I just ordered all the parts
@@NoXQc I ran with it without any issues. Only thing that bothered me was all the new wires floating in my engine bay. Being OCD, i ended up buying the air switch valves for the 5.7 since it was half price what 2 separate valves for the 4.7. I just used the top and installed it on my truck. I think i found it on ebay for under 200 bucks. Only thing i had to do was add a small extension on one of my wire harness since the orignal was a tad short. The air valves on the 5.7 is 1 unit and the valves are mirror of each other, the ones for the 4.7 is the same for both side. Hope that make sense. You can google the OEM air switch valve for 5.7 and 4.7 and see what i'm talking about. I
The black wire in that pair is crimped to a connector and attached to Terminal 30 (C or common) of the relay. The green wire and one end of the resistor are crimped together to a connector and attached to Terminal 87a (N/C or normally closed) of the Override relay. It does not matter which of these wires goes to which terminal, so long as one wire goes to Terminal 30 of the Override relay, and the other wire together with one end of the resistor goes to Terminal 87a of the Override relay. The other end of the resistor is crimped to a connector and attached to terminal 87 (N/O or normally open) of the Override relay.
Not sure how the 5.7 is wired. You may have to look at some of the forums to see if its possible. Those valves are under the manifold on the 5.7, so its a little tricky getting to it.
Because of your comment, can you elaborate on why this is the most rigged shit ever. Please explain what the difference is between this and the bypass kit. Please, I would appreciate your two cents before I make my decision on buying the kit or using this rigg.. I believe this rigged shit is sold also sold by a guy named skyfox.. thanks
It would be nice if you could show the whole circuit diagram on a piece of paper, so people could have a better understanding of how to hook it all up. On my Toyota 4 cylinder engine, I just replaced the part. If your switching valve is underneath the intake manifold, I can see why you would want to use a bypass system.
Bump on this video. For 05 Toyota Sequoia 4.7L, the MAS airflow wire you need to split is the Yellow/green stripe. Live in CA, performed this bypass for code p2441, and it passed smog today. Good video!😂
Did you do this after you were throwing a code 2441? I live in So Cal and my 05 Tundra just started to throw the 2440 SAIS stuck open bank 1 code.
I have a 05 sequoia also. I wanted to confirm the green and yellow wires coming off the relay in video, are spliced to the yellow green maf harness?
I tried this method as soon as I found three error codes that were showing up related to SAIS. My truck never actually went in limp mode before I installed this system. I spent about $80 on all the parts/tools and installed everything just like this video. Ultimately, the codes would go away and come back and it would even throw it in limp mode. This might have been from my lack of crimping skills. About five - seven different occasions I tried to adjust the wiring and crimps but it ended blowing a small starter related fuse.
I decided to buy and install the Hewitt bypass system. The installation went smoothly and is holding. I got the blocking plates in as well. I had to backtrack to correctly splice and crimp the yellow/black wires back tightly as when it was loose would throw it into limp again.
You need to do this bypass before you get any errors on your SAIS system. Once you have the codes you have some valve or reeds that are now stuck and will constantly throw a error. Which is why its important to do this before the errors start happening.
I thought the whole point of this is to bypass the SAIS and thereby getting rid of the valve that is stuck open or closed?@@saudk9261
Did you install block off plates with this method? If not how long have you been running your tundra without them?
I didn't need to.
I have a 2007 Toyota tundra 4.7 motor. It’s in limp mode right now. Will this product work for me?
Depends on why your truck is in limp mode. You made need to run a code reader on it to see what the problem is.
You can shut your engine light off with a code reader and that will bring the truck outta limp mode till the light kicks on again
Where do I buy the kit that you don’t have to slice into?
Look up the Hewitt bypass Kit.
Will this allow the truck to pass the emission test?
Not sure. We don't have emission testing in my state. I'm not sure what all they check for. I just wanted to fix the check engine light and bypass the air injection process on cold start up.
mine passed here in Texas
4.7 2006 tundra
code 2445 ..
@@howiedang
Do you unplug the air switching valves once you do this bypass????
I kept it plugged in.
i bought the bypass kit and check engine came back on after 200 miles?
Thanks for sharing . The AIP bypass link he followed (the google link) is not working anymore. Do you happen to have this info still? Will this work on a tundra v6 4.0? I have a p2442 stuck open switching valve so I need blocking plates . Thanks
I just answered my own question. Yes it works on the 4.0 v6 . install went smooth. the way it works is very simple . It temporary ,during cranking ,disables the intake air sensor and consequently disables the SIA.
@@mr2law Nice!! Glad to know it works on the 4.0.
Great video! Thanks a lot! I wonder if you can share the original instruction for the 4.7L Tundra, since I have a 5.7L, it may be wired differently. I will try to figure out how I could imitate the instruction on my 2008 5.7L. Thanks again!
I think the wiring should be the same. I think the only difference is the placement of the valves.
Where did you put the resistor with the green wire? Do you just have to cramp it at the connection or can it be on the wire above the connector
The resistor and the green wire was crimped together and went onto one of the pins on the relay. The resistor was on a seperate connector that also went to a pin on the relay. The other end of the green wire went somewhere else.
@@howiedang perfect thanks! Still no issue with the system? The codes popped on me I haven’t been driving my truck for the past 2 weeks trying to figure it out I just ordered all the parts
@@NoXQc I ran with it without any issues. Only thing that bothered me was all the new wires floating in my engine bay. Being OCD, i ended up buying the air switch valves for the 5.7 since it was half price what 2 separate valves for the 4.7. I just used the top and installed it on my truck. I think i found it on ebay for under 200 bucks. Only thing i had to do was add a small extension on one of my wire harness since the orignal was a tad short. The air valves on the 5.7 is 1 unit and the valves are mirror of each other, the ones for the 4.7 is the same for both side. Hope that make sense. You can google the OEM air switch valve for 5.7 and 4.7 and see what i'm talking about. I
Genius. Thanks!
Will this work for a 4.6 also?
Not sure. You might want to check with one of the tundra forum to confirm. Sorry.
Is there a specific position for the wired in the air max flow plug ?
It would be nice to know which end of the black and yellow wire goes to which wire in the relay..your right
The black wire in that pair is crimped to a connector and attached to Terminal 30 (C or common) of the relay. The green wire and one end of the resistor are crimped together to a connector and attached to Terminal 87a (N/C or normally closed) of the Override relay. It does not matter which of these wires goes to which terminal, so long as one wire goes to Terminal 30 of the Override relay, and the other wire together with one end of the resistor goes to Terminal 87a of the Override relay.
The other end of the resistor is crimped to a connector and attached to terminal 87 (N/O or normally open) of the Override relay.
My 4runner just started throwing this code. Why not replace the stuck valves?
You can, its just a cheap option if you don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks per valve.
I am going to try this on my 4.7 4runner. Can you tell me, does the computer codes show any codes or any pending after doing this?
@@johnw614 after you reset the codes, it shouldn't throw it again since it'll bypass the check for those valves.
Number of resisters please for bypass. Thanks a lots
Can I get this really at an auto parts store
I meant relay…
@@docspinstriping187 Probably. You may want to call and check. I'm just so used to ordering everything from Amazon.
Will this work for 5.7?
Not sure how the 5.7 is wired. You may have to look at some of the forums to see if its possible. Those valves are under the manifold on the 5.7, so its a little tricky getting to it.
@@howiedang will this work for 4.6
@@luiscyaz not sure man. You might want to check a tundra forum and verify.
Why bypass and not fix the real issue?
costs $4k to fix
Ok
Illegal I bet in CA.
This is the most rigged shit ive seen. Just by the bypass kit and do it right or replace the parts. Do not do this ..
Because of your comment, can you elaborate on why this is the most rigged shit ever. Please explain what the difference is between this and the bypass kit. Please, I would appreciate your two cents before I make my decision on buying the kit or using this rigg.. I believe this rigged shit is sold also sold by a guy named skyfox.. thanks
Do not do what?
The bypass kits are rigged shit too😂. Not like it’s OEM bypass kit