Видео

@HenryHuggins-c2u it's been a while so my memory is a little fuzzy. But I think I had the actuator unplugged. I plugged the actuator back in, had someone turn the key to turn the accessory on. The actuator recycles and spins back and forth. The position that it stops in is the "home" position. Then I made the 2mm adjustments based off that. You'll have to play around with it to get an idea of what it's doing. Good luck!

@@howiedang still didn't answer the question instead of turning the gear right. was it clockwise or counterclockwide, when you're looking straight at your picture?

@@HPK1555 good luck! It's most likely that spline. Make sure you get the right lubricant for it and be generous applying it. I haven't had issues with the lunging since my repair.

@imsuuuuure3074 the motor was rusty from where water was getting in from the breather tube hole but after cleaning it up, I got it back and running.

@@imsuuuuure3074 there's a video somewhere that shows taking apart the motor and cleaning the contacts inside. That's why I ended up doing.

@agentx4315 been a while, can't remember. I wouldn't think so.

@@alanaho4915 i think the motorcraft lube mentioned below is specific for this purpose. If I need to redo it, I'd probably use the motorcraft .

@JohnSmith-zb2ep maybe try using the xg-8 lubricant. Thats made for driveline. Or you might have some other issues with the driveline, u joints, etc.

@jfig4891 glad it helped. Good call on the xg-8. I saved that in my cart incase I have to open it back up.

How's it holding 4 months later?

@@mrmustache8735 Still no clunking. The sound would get worse the colder it was outside before I greased it. It's been in 90 degree weather and now in the upper/mid teens, not a sound.

@jfig4891 that's awesome thanks for letting me know. Can't wait till I get around doing this on my Tundra

Glad that helped!

Even with wheel bearing grease, it's still going good. Haven't had any issues since.

Depends on why your truck is in limp mode. You made need to run a code reader on it to see what the problem is.

You can shut your engine light off with a code reader and that will bring the truck outta limp mode till the light kicks on again

Look up the Hewitt bypass Kit.

I dont remember. I have a whole set, so I'm sure I just grabbed which ever would would fit for the irons, woods, and driver and a larger one for the putter. Still holding strong! Saved me from having to buy a new bag.

costs $4k to fix

Yep!!! That was my problem.

I kept it plugged in.

Might want to check if it's stuck in 4wd...maybe that's why the truck won't let you go on cruise? Just a guess...I haven't had that issue yet.

The electric motor is held on by a few screws but the connector is soldered on that you'll have to break and resolder.

@@howiedang no no, I'm talking about the picture you showed where you actually pulled the motor apart on the tab side and cleaned out the inside of the motor. How did you pull it apart?

@jameszettelmeyer291 been a while but I think the casing is crimped. I used a tiny flat head to pry it open, then pushed it all back together during reassembly.

I think he ment 2mm

The resistor and the green wire was crimped together and went onto one of the pins on the relay. The resistor was on a seperate connector that also went to a pin on the relay. The other end of the green wire went somewhere else.

@@howiedang perfect thanks! Still no issue with the system? The codes popped on me I haven’t been driving my truck for the past 2 weeks trying to figure it out I just ordered all the parts

@@NoXQc I ran with it without any issues. Only thing that bothered me was all the new wires floating in my engine bay. Being OCD, i ended up buying the air switch valves for the 5.7 since it was half price what 2 separate valves for the 4.7. I just used the top and installed it on my truck. I think i found it on ebay for under 200 bucks. Only thing i had to do was add a small extension on one of my wire harness since the orignal was a tad short. The air valves on the 5.7 is 1 unit and the valves are mirror of each other, the ones for the 4.7 is the same for both side. Hope that make sense. You can google the OEM air switch valve for 5.7 and 4.7 and see what i'm talking about. I

It's still holding up pretty good. Hardly any signs of wear.

Because of your comment, can you elaborate on why this is the most rigged shit ever. Please explain what the difference is between this and the bypass kit. Please, I would appreciate your two cents before I make my decision on buying the kit or using this rigg.. I believe this rigged shit is sold also sold by a guy named skyfox.. thanks

Do not do what?

The bypass kits are rigged shit too😂. Not like it’s OEM bypass kit

This is attached to the transfer case.

This is a 2007 5.7L? I've read that the 5.7L and 4.7L have different TC and so timing may be different for each on the 4HI side rod that enters the actuator? Any response is greatly appreciated thanks for the video

This is a 4.7. I do think the rods depth are different for 5.7.

@@howiedang do you have any direction you could point me for those depths on the 5.7L 2nd gen? Thanks for the response man

I watched this before I realized there was a difference between the 2 motor size. He's using the front facing camera so everything is inverted, but you can still tell what he's doing. ruclips.net/video/8blixRQT4zQ/видео.html

It would be nice to know which end of the black and yellow wire goes to which wire in the relay..your right

The black wire in that pair is crimped to a connector and attached to Terminal 30 (C or common) of the relay. The green wire and one end of the resistor are crimped together to a connector and attached to Terminal 87a (N/C or normally closed) of the Override relay. It does not matter which of these wires goes to which terminal, so long as one wire goes to Terminal 30 of the Override relay, and the other wire together with one end of the resistor goes to Terminal 87a of the Override relay. The other end of the resistor is crimped to a connector and attached to terminal 87 (N/O or normally open) of the Override relay.

Did you do this after you were throwing a code 2441? I live in So Cal and my 05 Tundra just started to throw the 2440 SAIS stuck open bank 1 code.

I have a 05 sequoia also. I wanted to confirm the green and yellow wires coming off the relay in video, are spliced to the yellow green maf harness?

I meant relay…

@@docspinstriping187 Probably. You may want to call and check. I'm just so used to ordering everything from Amazon.

I just answered my own question. Yes it works on the 4.0 v6 . install went smooth. the way it works is very simple . It temporary ,during cranking ,disables the intake air sensor and consequently disables the SIA.

@@mr2law Nice!! Glad to know it works on the 4.0.

Screwed it in from the side.

You can, its just a cheap option if you don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks per valve.

I am going to try this on my 4.7 4runner. Can you tell me, does the computer codes show any codes or any pending after doing this?

@@johnw614 after you reset the codes, it shouldn't throw it again since it'll bypass the check for those valves.

You need to do this bypass before you get any errors on your SAIS system. Once you have the codes you have some valve or reeds that are now stuck and will constantly throw a error. Which is why its important to do this before the errors start happening.

I thought the whole point of this is to bypass the SAIS and thereby getting rid of the valve that is stuck open or closed?@@saudk9261

Not sure. You might want to check with one of the tundra forum to confirm. Sorry.

I didn't need to.

Not sure. We don't have emission testing in my state. I'm not sure what all they check for. I just wanted to fix the check engine light and bypass the air injection process on cold start up.

mine passed here in Texas 4.7 2006 tundra code 2445 .. @@howiedang

I think the wiring should be the same. I think the only difference is the placement of the valves.

Not sure how the 5.7 is wired. You may have to look at some of the forums to see if its possible. Those valves are under the manifold on the 5.7, so its a little tricky getting to it.

@@howiedang will this work for 4.6

@@luiscyaz not sure man. You might want to check a tundra forum and verify.