Two separate parts: the air injection pumps I cleaned up and reused (located under the passenger fender). The dual air injection valves were damaged and I had to replace (located under the intake manifold).
I completely understand now please pardon me for missing that. I absolutely love how you tackle this and I'm not looking forward to performing this task but I can. Thanks again for your help!!
@@davidyakelis I ended up doing a delete on these motors, they were literally both full of yuk water. After the delete. I've had NO problem. I bought a delete kit from somewhere in South Carolina... it cost me about $180 I think.
@@michaelpittman5025 Aren't these part of the emissions system? How are you able to get away with the delete? Does your CEL lights stay on? And when you did the drain hole did it affect anything? Because of how these are designed to pull in air I would think drilling holes would be counterproductive to how they are supposed to operate.
John, a big thank you for the sharing of the video! I got back from Toyota today and they quoted me $2800 for the fix!! They are *ucking out of their mind! again, thank you!!
Your welcome. Figured it could help someone out, saves a ton of money on labor & looking back on it, it wasn't hard at all. Truck is still running great btw
Great video! Lots of good info. I here it’s difficult to remove the valve housing due to the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust tubes on. How did you get these off? Lots of guys are just replacing the valve assemblies themselves by removing the 8 torx bolts.
I’m approaching 250,000 miles on my 2012 tundra. I’m wondering when I’ll need to replace these part, no check engine light yet for anything. But looks straight forward. On mine, they moved those pumps up in the engine bay.
Excellent. Drilling the holes in the air pump rubber bulbs - does that mean they are no longer airtight and cause some code later on? Or does the system cluelessly operate? I(I prefer the latter!) Can they be drilled in place -even with a hand awl- without removing and let the water drain that way?
Correct, they cluelessly operate. It did not affect the air pump system negatively in any way. It worked like a condensate drain on an AC system, allowing the residual fluid a way of escape
i just replaced my pumps, was getting the 2443 code. check valve stuck open. i started with the what i believed the precipitating factor to be. i was wrong, my pumps were fine, dry and when hooked directly to power they spun up. a wasted effort...now then...do i go after the check valve?
Hey bud I have the same problem on my Toyota tundra 2008 just like to know did you repair the old Part or use the new parts Now I have the engine light came on code P2443 please advise Thanks
My truck went into limp mode and I called the mechanic to see what his diagnosis was with these symptoms and he said the throttle body needed replacing. I was wondering if I should drill small holes in the secondary air? it shouldn't harm anything.
Ok question I have all kind of lights flashing on the dash including 4hi and 4lo I am getting about 10 codes but they all say the thing some of the codes are p2419 and p2401 I can hear the pump under the fender come on when I crank it , it sounds like a turbo someone said I needed to change that other pump do think that is my problem
to filter big particles. it sometimes breaks down and gets stuck in the impeller. i highly recommend you search up youtube "your car/truck- uni filter mod"
Thank you my friend l did all you did but l still have my engine light on. & the new code that l have is P0419 secondary Air injectinon system Relay B Control Circuit. Do you know what l can do or what l'm suppose to do next?. Thank you for the information.
The codes need to be cleared out with a scanner. If you can drive it to the closest auto parts store they'll clear the codes for free, if you don't have s scanner. Maybe check the fuses & relay for the air pump circuit
Nope. Not the intake. There is one little coolant hose that runs through the bottom of the throttle body though. (For the idle air warmup) Just had to pinch off the rubber line with a clamp, upon removal. It will leak out a little coolant
Buy some of the BAR'S LEAKS headgasket fix, and do exactly what is says on the label, add to coolant. I've had that stuff fix multiple blown head gaskets on cars I've had. If you catch the leak early it is possible it will fix it, it's kind of expensive though, like 35 bucks a can. But it works! It can hold out for years if done right. A lot cheaper than doing a headgasket job...
@@JohnCalebWarren It does work but i am gonna have them replace it since it didn't run hot im curious about a crack in the head or block. Gonna have them install new water pump, timing chain, and guides, etc while it is opened up.
Reach out to Toyota Motor Corporation... I haven't heard about this problem on the Tacoma... what the corporation may offer you financial assistance if your Tacoma is out of warranty and it happens. They've been known to do that
My 07 Lexus GX470 has those codes. So I should replace the secondary air injection pumps and the switching valves,too ? And The problems disappeared,right ? Thanks
I did that first, ...still didn't fix it. This video shows how to fix it when the exhaust heat has fried the electrical components in the air pump valves. When that stuff gets fried even the bypass kit won't work... it was worth a try tho
I'm a little confused. Did you reuse the old after cleaning or did you use a new part? Thanks I'm having the same trouble.
Two separate parts: the air injection pumps I cleaned up and reused (located under the passenger fender).
The dual air injection valves were damaged and I had to replace (located under the intake manifold).
I completely understand now please pardon me for missing that. I absolutely love how you tackle this and I'm not looking forward to performing this task but I can. Thanks again for your help!!
How are your secondary air pumps holding up after you drilled holes in those rubber boots
@@davidyakelis I ended up doing a delete on these motors, they were literally both full of yuk water. After the delete. I've had NO problem. I bought a delete kit from somewhere in South Carolina... it cost me about $180 I think.
@@michaelpittman5025 Aren't these part of the emissions system? How are you able to get away with the delete? Does your CEL lights stay on? And when you did the drain hole did it affect anything? Because of how these are designed to pull in air I would think drilling holes would be counterproductive to how they are supposed to operate.
I was thinking about the water issue needing proper drainage.
Great video that deals with the root cause of the issue.
Respect the K.I.S.S.!
John, a big thank you for the sharing of the video! I got back from Toyota today and they quoted me $2800 for the fix!! They are *ucking out of their mind! again, thank you!!
Your welcome. Figured it could help someone out, saves a ton of money on labor & looking back on it, it wasn't hard at all. Truck is still running great btw
@@JohnCalebWarren was it the valve or the pump that was causing the problem I'm having the exact same problem would appreciate to know thanks
Would have loved to see the intake removal, hoses and line are obvious, but I'd really liked to have seen that. Great video though , thanks it helped.
Thanks - many owners from tacomaworld.com will be watching this very soon.
Nice video. So I dont have this problem yet. Maybe I should drill a couple holes in them to prevent.
Great video! Lots of good info. I here it’s difficult to remove the valve housing due to the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust tubes on. How did you get these off? Lots of guys are just replacing the valve assemblies themselves by removing the 8 torx bolts.
I’m approaching 250,000 miles on my 2012 tundra. I’m wondering when I’ll need to replace these part, no check engine light yet for anything. But looks straight forward. On mine, they moved those pumps up in the engine bay.
As my dad would say, "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I would just leave it alone & hope it doesn't happen
That's great mileage without running into this problem.
I'm close to 300k I'm getting worried too lol
Great job . I replaced pump and check valve but found out air pump was working fine. I guess I'll save it incase new one fails.
Excellent. Drilling the holes in the air pump rubber bulbs - does that mean they are no longer airtight and cause some code later on? Or does the system cluelessly operate? I(I prefer the latter!) Can they be drilled in place -even with a hand awl- without removing and let the water drain that way?
Correct, they cluelessly operate. It did not affect the air pump system negatively in any way. It worked like a condensate drain on an AC system, allowing the residual fluid a way of escape
Thanks for the video can you share the mods you did to the front end of your Tundra it's looking nice
Great vid. Have watched a few times now. Sorry I could only give you one like
i just replaced my pumps, was getting the 2443 code. check valve stuck open. i started with the what i believed the precipitating factor to be. i was wrong, my pumps were fine, dry and when hooked directly to power they spun up. a wasted effort...now then...do i go after the check valve?
Just retired, love working on mechanical stuff...have 2009 Lexus GX470, just now getting those codes P1441and P1444, same fix?
Hey bud I have the same problem on my Toyota tundra 2008 just like to know did you repair the old Part or use the new parts Now I have the engine light came on code P2443 please advise
Thanks
did you replace the intake gasket?
Thanks A lot for the video....great job
My truck went into limp mode and I called the mechanic to see what his diagnosis was with these symptoms and he said the throttle body needed replacing. I was wondering if I should drill small holes in the secondary air? it shouldn't harm anything.
Mine did fine for the remainder I had the truck with no problems
Ok question I have all kind of lights flashing on the dash including 4hi and 4lo I am getting about 10 codes but they all say the thing some of the codes are p2419 and p2401 I can hear the pump under the fender come on when I crank it , it sounds like a turbo someone said I needed to change that other pump do think that is my problem
I have a p0014 code, check engine light and traction light is on, you think this can be it?
Hey John, was there any issues/negative side affects from drilling drain holes in those pumps to keep water from building up?
Nope, drove fine for the next 6 months. Sold it running great & bought a newer Tundra
Is it possible to put 2 k&n air filter (1” size) like for the 4Runner and Tacoma secondary intake?
One of my pumps had a thick filter foam block stuffed into the top housing air path? Why
to filter big particles. it sometimes breaks down and gets stuck in the impeller. i highly recommend you search up youtube "your car/truck- uni filter mod"
I have issue p2433. Do I have to change the whole assembly valve set?
Thank you my friend l did all you did but l still have my engine light on. & the new code that l have is P0419 secondary Air injectinon system Relay B Control Circuit. Do you know what l can do or what l'm suppose to do next?. Thank you for the information.
The codes need to be cleared out with a scanner. If you can drive it to the closest auto parts store they'll clear the codes for free, if you don't have s scanner.
Maybe check the fuses & relay for the air pump circuit
@@JohnCalebWarren thank you very much Sir. Right now they don't want to do it. Because the pandemic but l going to check the fuses thank you.
Hello, How much wes the valve assembly? Thanks
$250 shipped
@@JohnCalebWarren thanks
Please help! Was there any coolant running through that intake manifold??
Nope. Not the intake. There is one little coolant hose that runs through the bottom of the throttle body though. (For the idle air warmup) Just had to pinch off the rubber line with a clamp, upon removal. It will leak out a little coolant
@@JohnCalebWarren Dang, I got water in my #8 cylinder and I was trying to rule out head gasket. Gonna need to pull the head now.. lol.. great video
Buy some of the BAR'S LEAKS headgasket fix, and do exactly what is says on the label, add to coolant. I've had that stuff fix multiple blown head gaskets on cars I've had. If you catch the leak early it is possible it will fix it, it's kind of expensive though, like 35 bucks a can. But it works! It can hold out for years if done right. A lot cheaper than doing a headgasket job...
@@JohnCalebWarren It does work but i am gonna have them replace it since it didn't run hot im curious about a crack in the head or block. Gonna have them install new water pump, timing chain, and guides, etc while it is opened up.
Does anyone know if the warranty update covers the tacoma? I just broke 100k on my 2013 and this fits the bill for the error code.
Reach out to Toyota Motor Corporation... I haven't heard about this problem on the Tacoma... what the corporation may offer you financial assistance if your Tacoma is out of warranty and it happens. They've been known to do that
Do you have to remove the exhaust?
Nope. Just the intake manifold
Same problem, they don't cover it anymore. $2500 later.
My 07 Lexus GX470 has those codes. So I should replace the secondary air injection pumps and the switching valves,too ? And The problems disappeared,right ? Thanks
Correct. Primarily the switching valves
@@JohnCalebWarren thank you
Did you have to remove wipers and wiper motor?
no, but the blinker fluid had to be replaced.
Toyota have warranty on the pump up to 150 000 mile on the tundra i let then do mine it got bad at 107 ooo mile
Good to know!
What year your truck?
@@84marcelors 2011
@@courtneymark2153 ok... I have a 2008 with 132.000 miles Im gonna call toyota to see if its under warranty but I think its 10 years or 150 miles
@@84marcelors cal them it's or you dealer
Good. Video
Buy the bypass kit.
On a 4.6you dont have to take off the manifold
Great great. Thankyou
Replace the snorkel with the upgraded version and it won't happen again
Or just buy a bypass kit 🤷🏼♂️
I did that first, ...still didn't fix it. This video shows how to fix it when the exhaust heat has fried the electrical components in the air pump valves. When that stuff gets fried even the bypass kit won't work... it was worth a try tho
Whats the name of bypass kit
Is the kit easy to install? Did you just clear codes after bypass kit install?