Air Injection Reaction (A.I.R.) Diagnosis and Understanding-Pt1
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- Опубликовано: 23 дек 2014
- Understanding the theory of operation and components of most secondary air injection reaction (AIR) systems and how to diagnose them. Part one covers theory of operation, components, computer control and monitoring and diagnosis of the AIR pump.
Part 2 is here: • Air Injection Reaction...
Helpful links for understand O2 sensor validation of components: • P0420 P0430 catalytic ... and • Secret of Engine Probl... 
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This approach, understanding the system before diving in, is exactly the way most of us think. Great start!
Thanks for posting this video i have 01 Chevy pickup with same problem on smog pump. I replaced the same part after doing same test and my truck pass the California smog test. Great job keep up this videos
You are a very smart, intuitive person....I very much enjoy your tutorials!
man. Im so happy that i foun youre videos. i live in P.R. and im a certified mechanic but for so long i be doing so much stupit thin wen i do mi diagnostic but waching you videos im improbed my skill. thanck so much for all you importan time involve tiching us that withaot nolech no mechanic cant call themsel profesional. sorry for my speel in englesh but i do my best.
Alexis Roman 0
I love this. There's a lot of people out there that only really learn when they understand how it works. Really filling in a missing gap here.
I wish I would have seen this video before I bought parts!
I guess I can take them back. 😩
I'm so glad I found these videos. I can do my own work now!
☝️
Finalmente una buena explicación ! Gracias. Excelente video. Finally a good explanation ! Thanks. Excellent video.
LOL. I actually was lying on the couch with a warm blanket while watching this video. Way to know your audience!
ROTF- it seemed to be a good guess.
LOVE your videos your so thorough and your a GREAT teacher, THANK YOU SO SO MUCH!!!! Keep up the great work :D
Thanks for the educational vids. I was changing out my spark plugs, and wires last night on my 2003 corvette. In order to get access to pull stuck on wires and boots I had to remove some parts, not knowing what they are. One part is the air system check valves. I took the opportunity to clean them up a bit, as they were crusty inside.(200,000 miles). I think I will replace the rubber hoses, vacuum lines and check valves just to ensure proper long term operation. I will also inspect the other components also, such as air pump. If it is crusty, and on its way out, or not working, maybe replace it also. When ever I do work on my car, I inspect nearby parts, and look for things that may be heading for failure in near future.
Excelente explicación fue de gran ayuda para mi. Gracias!
Some European brands such as VW, AUDI and Porsche are integrating a pressure sensor in the A.I.R system in order to detect its function. Thank you very much for such detailed information on this and all your other videos!
Yes that is correct- I should have mentioned that in the video
Yes, but mine is old enough (22 years) that I believe its "improper air flow" is triggered by incorrect change in the exhaust system's pre-catalyst O2 sensor. A direct pressure sensor would arguably more precise and accurate, subject to fewer complications.
Thanks, another great explanation; one that I can easily understand. I haven't decided if you are a better mechanic or instructor; maybe just a great mechanic instructor. You are my "GO TO" site when needing help dealing with an auto repair issue. Great job, thanks.
A competent mechanic actually understand what he is doing, which is essential to being a great instructor. Not everyone can do the work and explain it completely to someone else who is not an expert in the field.
Thanks John, made my day!!
@@SchrodingersBox I have worked as an electrical engineer and more recently as a full-time university lecturer, but since my training is in physics, I also really appreciate your pen name!
Great stuff!
Your vids are always so so informative and (dare I say it), exciting, that I keep having to pause midway to give a thumbs up. You really should remind people at the end of all your videos to give a thumbs up and subscribe.
Keep 'em coming!
@10:46 "You really have to understand all automotive systems to even understand one." Absolutely true. Thanks for your help.
great video matt as usual thanks man.
Thank you for getting out in the cold and teaching me
Lol- much appreciated!!
Excellent explanation - I couldn't understand why the check engine light (later found to be a failure code in the AIR) appeared when I was bombing down the highway on a fully warmed-up engine. But you nailed it! Thanks
hey this video is very helpful I got a check engine light on my 2000 camaro z28 it's the secondary air injection system p0410 .. so I decided to to buy a new air pump relay ,new air pump, new control valve and 2 new check valves one for each side should I get a new silond as well i don't know because I think if that was a problem I would get p0412 ...I got all those parts because I wanted to take care of this problem
great topic! thank you for teaching
Just what I needed thank you
Yo Matt, I just used my infrared pyrometer to measure the temperature of the floor in my garage. It's a frigid 61F. You have to love Christmas in Phoenix.
Thank you very much. Great video
Excellent Video!
Is there any method of sending/spraying any type of cleaning solution through the engine intake air supply that could clean the Air Pump?
Thank you. My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T had two component faults in the secondary air injection system: 1) carbon-clogged "combi" valve (pump-to-exhaust controller); and 2) the solenoid control switch that tells the combi valve when to open or close. The silicone hose connecting the two was also suspiciously discolored and somewhat hardened at the solenoid valve end. Replacing the combi valve alone eliminated the check engine light, but the smog test monitor bit was still not clearing to 0/"ready." When I found no vacuum at the combi valve's nipple during a cold start with the pump running, I figured it pretty much had to be the control solenoid, so I dug that out and replaced it. No more check engine lights, and the smog test monitors all switched to "ready" after a 10 mile drive with three restarts and a couple of 45mph stretches with deceleration to stop.
How did you determine the combivalve was malfunctioning?
@@SchrodingersBox VCDS/VAG-COM scanner from Ross-Tech, my go-to diagnostic tool for my VW/Audi cars. Even my cheapo generic scanner told me that I had "incorrect secondary air flow." I jumpered across the air pump relay to make it run continuously for a few minutes while I felt for leaks at the pump itself (common VW/Audi failure mode) and in its plastic and hard pipes to the combi valve. At that point, I figured either the combi valve wasn't opening and/or closing properly. I went ahead and swapped it out, because it was 22 years old/original and looked discolored. Given the discoloration of the silicone tube between the combi valve and the control solenoid valve, I figured some sort of exhaust gas backflow through the control channel damaged not only the tubing, but also the solenoid, causing me to lose control vacuum during cold starts.
As one of my friends on Passatworld.com pointed out, I probably could have cleaned the heavy carbon buildup out of the combi valve and saved it, but as long as I had gone through the trouble of removing it, I figured I might as well put in a new one, since they are readily available and not expensive.
I’m going through this right now. I have a the code po410. I’ve done my t/s, found my pump runs, solenoid works and diverted valve. Got deeper and found the vacuum line off in back of intake. Found 4mm line and plug back in but it has a tee that is 6mm on the other side where does that go
Very comprehensive.
Actually, there is a vacuum tube that goes to the intake manifold on an 01 4.3L S-10 from the solenoid valve that you showed in your diagram. That "vacuum tree"(behind the throttle body) connector also drives the cabin HVAC air direction control valve, and goes to the vacuum canister mounted in the driver side inner fender.
Great video I just have a question I have a 01 Silverado 4.8 and it has no codes everything runs great but can’t get the air monitor to set so I was wondering does the water thermostat and coolant temp sensor have to be around the same temp during cold start? My truck takes at least 10-15 mins to warm up and doesn’t get above 200 degrees wasn’t sure if it has to do with that, plus the pump only runs for about a minute and 15 seconds I’m lost was thinking it was the water pump not circulating the fluid thanks for the info in advance have a nice day sir
What a great video mate. In your drawing you have a diverting valve (splits one incoming flow into two). Some valves are combination switching+diverting. In this case incoming flow is diverted (switched) from one port to the other. Also some of these valves can regulate the flow output of the pump.
Great point!
Great watch. Thanks
Good information thanks.
My 2011 c300 Benz has a p0410 air pump failure and a p0420 catalytic converter bank1 sens 2 Check engine code too. Would the bad secondary air pump cause the downstream bank 1 sensor 2 to have a fault? Occasionally it will throw a code p0015 exhaust cam b fault?
19:25 this was cruel 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Both hands on the phone, I swear 😅
Thanks for the videos series. Great stuff.
Hahahaha I forgot all about that lol. Man I was a clown hahahaha
Nice job I like tank for you time to explain how the system works
Any time!
This is better than a textbook a hundred times over
Matt you grown in subs in a short amount of time.. Keep up the good work and sarcasm. And soon you will surpass the ones you look up to;) just when you get there don't go commercial on us;)
Hahaha- don't worry bro. I know exactly what you mean ;-)
Very informative video
Can you make a video regarding ls swaps and having PCM's altered for use in older vehicles. Specifically deleting rear O2, cats, and EGR. What affects? Can this also be used on a modern truck, if one was not getting a inspection. Thanks
There would be no reason to do this unless it was for offroad application only and I don't really focus on that kind of thing. My dedication is to get people to be able to pass inspection lol.
There's a channel called "bleepin' jeep'" that may have info on stuff like that.
Honestly, why not just gut the cat and disable the CEL? Seems so much easier that trying to work around it.
I have a 2005 Buick Lacrosse 3.8L, local shop gave up after repl cat, ignition module, fuel rail. I have repl coils, plug wires, and O2 sensors, cleaned throttle body and MAF. It's throwing P0411, P0053, P0054. Mode 06 showing O2 sensor values off. The vehicle intermittently stalls on hard acceleration. I've been hesitating on the AIR pump. Could it be? Is that really plausible. Can I diagnose that vs check valve before trying both. I'm running out of ideas and want to avoid the "stealership" LOL.
What data do you have that indicated the Plugs wires, coils and O2 sensors are all bad??? I would totally start there.
Had a P2440 code and Check Engine light on my '05 Tacoma. "Secondary Air valve stuck open". Finally found a source to buy one without breaking my bank ($140) and ordered one. Waiting for it to come I was
thinking "I wonder if I can UNstick this thing?". I pulled off the hose that runs from the
smog pump to the valve at the valve inlet port and squirted a couple ounces of Mercury
Quicksilver (an amazing product designed to de-gick marine engines) into it. Let it
sit overnight, cleared codes with my ODBII gizmo and drove the truck to town and back.
The CEL never came back on. Now I'm debating whether to keep the new valve or return/sell
it. I can do this 30 second repair a BUNCH of times with a ten dollar can of liquid magic!
The truck is a 2.7L 4 banger so it just has one 'bank'. I would think it may work on a
V6 or V8 too. Hey, it's a quick and inexpensive trick to try!
I have a question about my 2004 Mazda rx8. I was pulling a code for the Secondary Air Pump, the mechanic I took it to, switched the electrical plug from the air solenoid to the SSV solenoid. It then turned off the p2259 code and the p0663 code to the SSV. So does this mean the solenoid isn't bad but it's the electricalal plug itself? If so what's the fix? Btw, the mechanic was just going to change the solenoid, if it was the solenoid it would still throw a code no matter which plug was connected to it and it wouldn't throw a code for another solenoid?
It is impossible to tell without getting the powers, references and grounds readings.
Indeed I'm in bed, with my iPad, all confy watching this great tutorial. One hand holding the iPad, the other behind my head if you're wondering.
Yes I worried about that other hand location for sure!
Very informative, and hilarious af... hahaha
I started to watch, then Christmas morning and children happened. lol Merry Christmas Matt and fans. :)
Hahahaha, I was under the impression your whole family watched my videos together during the holidays while easting popcorn and S'mores.
My wife sure has seen some. She lost her husband to the case study from hell. After the last week of it I said. See? I do stuff with you again. I don't dream of the problem and think of the problem every moment I'm driving.
I learned so much. I can't wait to open your Christmas gift video later. I'd send a gift back, but I don't think a cell phone video would cut it.
Please note: we do have s'mores and popcorn in the house. I'll be sure to cook a marshmallow up in preparation for the video. :)
Looks like GM changed this system in some year models. Have spent 5 plus hour's checking the different components in my car secondary air induction system and found there are a number of differences.
First there is no diverter relay but a T connection to check valves. But there is a Air solinoid valve in the pump itself and the motor, both must be engaged before air will flow.
Now there is also a Secondary Air Bleed valve solinoid this valve helps prevent vacuum within the air system, which could prevent the integral stop valve from opening. The bleed valve is controlled by the air pump relay and will be energized when the air pump is commanded ON.
My issue looks to be a high resistance contacts in the Air Solinoid Relay found to vary from a few hundred ohms to many K ohms.
This relay controls the internal stop valve.
Hope this is helpful. Information from original GM Workshop manual.
Graeme Redman in Australia
Very good to know!!! Yes the model shows always from 2000. I don’t doubt a ton has changed since then and in fact I have a video on a subaru with a fairly different setup more like you described.
I have a question. My SAI code is telling me that the driver's side bank one is not receiving enough oxygen but the air pump is pumping plenty and the check valve is new not sending exhaust back up but I just found out the vacuum solenoid is stuck open. So that means it's still allowing air to be pumped into bank 1 but why would it say p1412 air signal implausible? I figuring bad vacuum solenoid would make bank one and two have a problem. Also it's not preventing air from entering it's just staying open forever. So aside from that being an issue would that be the reason to cause not enough oxygen to be reaching the oxygen sensor?
P1412 Land Rover Discovery 2 v8. (Only bad part seems to be vacuum solenoid stuck open)
What is the oxygen sensor response when the pump is activated?
you crack me up dude
I know, right? lol! When editing these videos I wonder what I was thinking on half the stuff I say.
Schrodingers Box I'll second Thomas Cochran's statement ! Oh, and by the way I do feel your pain. Been outside at all crazy hours of the evening, once or twice freezing my butt off, just so I could get to work the next morning ! LOL ! Great Vid, keep' em coming ! Hope ya have a great Christmas !
I have a 2002 Trans Am with a P0410 code. I checked the relay it was fine. Air pump was not working I checked it by applying 12v power and nothing happened. I ended up replacing the air pump but I still ended up getting the same code and the new pump is working. I noticed that the PCV hose on the back part of the manifold was ripped. Would that cause a P0410 code?
+Rodrigo Mejia I quite often have found multiple causes on an 04x0. At least 3 times the Motor AND solenoid were bad. When the system gets water in it, the components degrade. often one fails first but then after jot being repaired for a long time, other components also exposed to moisture rust too. It's not unusual to see an AIR system is rather deplorable condition.
Welcome back.
Hey. Great video. I have one question. If the vacuum line going to the air solenoid is not working properly (not holding vacuum/is cracked or has holes in it) what would be the effect on the operation of the solenoid and the operation of the diverter valve? Thanks in advance.
The solenoid would operate but since there is no vacuum the diverter valve would not.
Matt my 1999 Z28 Camaro had this code fault and found there is a filter canister on the inlet to pump. It has a number of filters in it that were dirty. I cleaned them but I then replaced material with some filter material I had. Another thing I found is my pump has 3 wires 1 for motor 1 for internal valve !. There is no diversion valve in hose line to check valves. From outlet there only a T connection to check valves. Now the pump is pumping air as it could not before due to dirty filters. Also noticed the internal pump valve is controlled by the PCM.
Graeme in Australia
See other post as this did not fix it it was high resistance contacts in the Air Solinoid Relay sometimes it worked but other times it did not anyway new relay fixed it and the valve now opens allowing air to flow every time now.
Great instruction ! I have an early 70s Chevy 454 that I want to put the smog pump on again but was wondering how that system shuts off at the right time when there are no sensors or computerized components? I think I heard that it shoots oxygen into the exhaust to more or less dilute the NOx fumes, burn off some of them and quickly raise the temp to enact the cat. How well do these old style AIR systems work? Have any info on that?
great question. some of them worked on engine temperature- basically when coolant temperature is cold, there would be a mechanical switch that turns on the AIR and then as engine heats up, the coolant expands and maybe moves a float or some kind of trigger to interrupt the AIR switch and turn it off. actually a lot of older systems used a mechanism like that. you would see on much older cars these tall vacuum “trees” stemming from a coolant port with all these vacuum lines branching off it. basically they have a float in the “tree” with a ball that floats to enable or disable those lines along the tree as it floats up with engine temperature increase.
@@SchrodingersBox Ok great, I thought it might be controlled with vacuum somehow. I also I think GM designed it to run with retarded timing at around 9 degrees advanced instead of about 30 but I'm not sure. Thanks for our answer!
Now I see, my car was the last of the original A.I.R. before Catalytic converters in 1974. It did not shut off and pumped air into the cylinder head exhaust ports to reduce unburned fuel. But it was causing damage to exhaust valves so next they went to cat converters with secondary air injection that shut off as soon as the cats became hot enough to run on their own and do the clean up of Noxious fumes. So running an original AIR pump with a catalytic may not work so well because they not compatible.
Hey Matt, thx 4 the video.... Although in MY CASE my S600 at start up sounds like a jet engine which is indicative of the air inj. pump. Also I have a CEL for the same problem. They're warrantied up to 70K but my cars over that so I'll just replace it... Also, the lines going up to the exhaust manifolds shouldn't gum up should they?
Just disconnect power to the pump and see if the sound goes away.
@@SchrodingersBox Matt, thx 4 the reply! Afterwards I thot to myself, 'Duh!!!'
(ps: u showed us that on a Maf test I think)
Yes. Both hands on the ipad(galaxys4). Lol. Thanks for your sacrifice and therms lost during video. 😆
Wow. You make good videos.
Thanks! What a simple, nice comment hahaha. Made my day!!!
Hello. Where does the air pump get its air from? Where does the inlet hose connect thanks!
it just draws it from outside. the hose usually runs under a panel or something to prevent water from being drawn in.
The car I’m currently working on is carbureted and has an AIR system. Will the things discussed here be the same? I don’t have any oxygen sensors or things like that
Exactly the same.
I am a subscriber and enjoy your videos but I am not one of the 2% but am not an idiot. I am new to how vehicles work and I prefer the term "yet uninformed."
In your videos you use a computer-based diagnostic. Which one is it and what one do you recommend for us users who are willing to spend a few hundred to get something more than the Autel scanner that can read live data but isn't nearly as good?
Keith Wiely Keith, I recently tried an innova 3130 and I have to say, I see it as a great intro scan tool for a beginner without spending anything near what I have spent on mine.
OK question. I have a 84 Buick regal 3.8l v6. I have a changed the check valves both of them. Then I changed the air diverter valve but now the new diverter valve makes some weird pumping noise inside of it. Any solutions please
ok, what data do you have?
@@SchrodingersBox no data. I'm just trying to get to pass smog and get going again
@@SchrodingersBox is it normal for that valve to make that noise
no. that’s why we need data. without data you can’t diagnose it.
Hi I have a question? I have a bmw545i with the engine N62 which almost impossible to clean the air ports after the check valves with out removing the Engine which so expensive! My question is is there any way I can manipulate the signal so the computer completes the monitor?? Please help or let me know , thanks
You definitely do not have to remove the engine for that procedur. I do not know of a way to trigger the monitoring completion without actually meeting the criteria for the particular system monitor.
Schrodingers Box I try cleaning it with the AGA kit and the AGA hook but didn’t work the hook broke in side the head to get it out was a nightmare so I gave up I just did the valve steam seals and cleaned as much as I could with the brush in side de ports, once I found out how to manipulate the sensor and trigger the computer monitor I will let you know , thanks
So if you do long tube headers with no cats dose all of this just get deleted ?
Usually that's exactly what is done, but normally by hacks who then drive around with their CEL on all the time.
Great video
Question can this cause my gas tank not to breathe for some reason. My gas tank gets sucked In
definitely a closed vent solenoid.
It's the water pump has to do anything with the air injection code for a 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 4.8?
not likely. the only way I can see that as a possibility is if the water pump pulley is frozen causing the AIR pump pulley not to operate but then you would have far worse concerns.
I'm a PA state safety and emissions inspector. I typically don't do many emissions inspections since I border 2 counties that don't require emissions testing and I'm in a remote-ish area of the one that does. However, I'm brushing up on emissions systems because twice per year an undercover emissions inspector-inspector comes around and has you test their vehicle to make sure you aren't ripping people off or just slapping stickers on. They sabotage something on the emissions system and you have to find what's wrong with it. Nerve wracking. To make things worse, once in a while there WONT be a problem so you spend an hour and a half checking and double checking and triple checking and can't find an issue so you pass it and the whole time you're writing out the sticker you're thinking "god I hope I didn't miss something and get a fine or lose my license over this"
Thanks for the explanation but I wish there was more Hands-On. Maybe on your next video
Do all of these air systems have check valves in them? The reason I ask is, on James Danner's channel, he has a case on a Sonoma where the inlet and outlet hayoses (that's Danner for hoses) are mixed up. This caused the air pump to fill with water which then made it draw too much current and blew the fuse. So you could replace the fuse and the pump would run, but sooner or later it's going to blow the fuse again.
hahah "Hayoses" lol.
That I have seen, yes, all AIR pumps (and the tubes after the solenoid) have some type of check valve system. The former, to prevent water entry in the motor as you described and the latter to prevent exhaust from backflowing into the AIR system.
I have learned never to say "never", "always", "none" or "all" when it comes to automotive designs but so far I have not seen a system without checkvalves.
Schrodingers Box Cool. I haven't seen a system without them but I can't say that I've checked every single system ever made! LOL!!!
By the way, no disrespect to the Danner's, I love their videos and they certainly seem like extremely cool people. That accent is pretty funny though. I think Jim's is even more defined thank Paul's. Never-the-less, great guys!
where is my air pump!! haha joking guy. keep the vids coming!!!!
Would you please take photos of your vacuum lines? I am having difficulty tracing where all the vacuum lines go. Thanks!!!
There should be a vacuum and emissions diagram on the underside of the hood
@@SchrodingersBox unfortunately that diagram is no longer there... most photos online are black and white and it’s very difficult to follow.
here is a really clear diagram that’s easy to read. www.camaroz28.com/forums/general-1967-2002-f-body-tech-46/vacuum-line-diagram-routing-880068/
(scroll down a bit)
Any suggestions on P1423 & p1421 on a bmw e46
sure. what data do you have?
Schrodingers Box well I have a 99 bmw 323i e46 & I went to get emissions an I failed for
F5 DME: Flow rate, sec.-air system, too low, bank 1 (OBDII: P1423; EUIII: P0410)
F6 DME: Flow rate, sec.-air system, too low, bank 2 (OBDII: P1421; EUIII: P0410) ... I replaced the the secondary air injection valve, fixed a small vacuum leak from the hose that runs from the one-way valve to the back of the firewall, & the pre-cat O2 sensors & my CEL is still throwing the same codes..... I read a lot of Forums That says ...” start The Engine on a cold start & detach the inlet Air pump hose to see if the pumps is functioning correctly “ So I’m guessing it works Since I hear the fans come on but I’m not sure if it’s blowing the right amount of air into one way valve ... so Ima try it an see if my SAP is working or need to be replaced.... is there anything else I should check??
What data indicates the injection valve needed to be replaced? I would totally revisit that data for sure.
wow great! i'm worried to connect the air pump direct to the battery in case it is not rated for that kind of current. but anyway way cheaper than a tech 2!
I can't think of any motor-driven device other than maybe a stepper IAC that isn't operated by 12V with single directional polarity.
thanks! what a great 'hack' to test the AIR pump w/o having an expensive scan tool to command it on and off. i was about to test the pump by starting the car cold and listening for the pump with the screwdriver to ear trick.
I'm having a problem with a AIR that won't go through its cycle and always says incomplete. Would you be willing to help me with that? Do you want to do it here or in person?
Where are you?
I'm a little north of Denver
PM me a phone number I will try to take a look but I am out of town this week tho.
Dinger is pretty good at explaining how things work and has broadened my knowledge base. I do however have my own question ⁉️ Mr. Dinger sir, do you use a scientific method with the ladies, if you know what I'm saying!!?? I know there's lots of parts "under the hood" and I can turn the dials and flip the switches ok but maybe a manual?? Power side or ground side control, when should oil be checked, and other fun stuff like that. I'm doing ok now but I like to get better at something every day :-) Understood if cars and "SCIENCE" insert Thomas Dolby voice!!! are your thing 😂😂😂 just a thought, always wondered what was under the wives hood and maybe tighten up the a/f ratio
Lol sorry no- I still have not figure them out at all hahaha
The lady parts defy science 🤔...r. Gladwell, I accept your offer. Only 10k hours! I'll have done and report my findings by the weekend. Seriously tho I by some dinger swag. Youve helped me look at things in a different way. Not just try to copy what RUclips guy does but to think independently and figure out why or how. I never charge for mis diagnosis and after selling well over 30k cars in last 25-30 years. Every single misdiagnosed problem must have cost me 250k plus a year. Wanna guess what the mechanic answer was every time.... Yep you guessed it.... " It needed that too" classic it's the free all, check mate block just like "fake news" can't ever prove write or wrong. My bills are drastically down and body getting tired at 50 but the knowledge is priceless!! Thanks again for being thorough and entertaining!!
Now with the Dinger t-shirt I may hit 20k by the weekend!! Shit I'm married.. ah well there will be lots of jealous women out there 😂
Dam you caught me getting my kicks off of watching your videos in my happy hour
Me too
I don't have any codes at all and I didn't even know this system existed until I started researching my whining sound at cold startup only...my trailblazer sounds like a jet engine for the first 20 seconds of startup...
I wonder if maybe a valve is sticking somehow allowing that whistle sound to occur....
Could be. What’s the compression showing?
@SchrodingersBox I didn't test it yet...the sound is definitely coming from the air pump motor...I wonder if a bearing could be bad on the fan/turbine causing the noise
you should make shirts saying "only if you're an idiot" lol
i laugh every time he says that, hahahah
I miss him.
Time for radiant floor in the garage eh!?
16:31 "UFO looking thing".
I'm a f-ing idiot 😔 now I have to check selenoid after replacing my air pump on my C5, great video tho!
I'm getting a code of p2438 please help I've also gotten a code of p0418 I've posted a video please help thanks ahead
Tacoma 4.0
What data do you have?
@@SchrodingersBox I'm so sorry i read the question worng I have a scanner I recorded a quick video and posted a video it's the only video on my channel
I have a check engine light and Trac off . when I deleted the code the p2438 come on in a snap
good vid, but have to be honest i never heard (or cared) about air injection, or pumps for that. Instead i do know trucks use some kind of ADBLUE crap for reduction of polutants. Is air injection similar to the adblue sistem? Don't know much about the adblue because i was never interested in it, but seing this vid kinda makes me ask questions and wanna know more...guess that makes me one of the 2%-ers
carmen claudia I never heard of adblue but I looked it up- appears to be an additional liquid catalyst to supplement HC conversion. AIR would be totally different that this as AIR itself doesn't help catalysis but rather helps the converter get to temperature sooner.
Adblue.... JHC lol.
well that's just what they work with in europe, less AIR systems. VW is inserting ADblue into Touaregs and Q models. Pretty much new on the market, i don't bother them knoking on my door soon, just picking up as much knowledge as i can about everithing. BTW, i don't have the time necessary to make an utube acc of my own (though i should), but instead i'm using my wifes, my actual name is Chris, and i'm enthusiastically watching u'r channel from Romania. Sorry for the missleading, i'll try making an account of my own so u don't think i'm some car freak girl from arround the world. Keep in touch, keep doing u'r thing! PS, do u use facebook?
this is for diesels
THE FAULT WAS THE Air pump solenoid Relay.
Checked relay coil OK
Checked relay points and found high resistance when relay closed.
Replaced this relay now have full flow of air from Air Pump.
Will now have to drive car a few times to confirm all is fixed.
My trans am toyota yaris has a major design fault--- no a.i.r. control system.
It is time ot book a flight to Tokyo.You gets what you pay for !!!
The F250 w the smog pump removed... my'88 4.9 F150, the cx-921 (motorcraft part #) bypass valve doesn't hold vacuum and I can't find it anywhere. If I could just convert it to CNG w some strong spark to run it on MagneGas I wouldn't even need the smog system! sigh
ruclips.net/video/2kplISHsRrE/видео.html
I read that the air injection system forces air into the catalytic converters when the engine is warmed. Contrary to what you were saying?
yomomisjesus Then you read wrong. As a matter of fact this is even proven in the video with the measurement of 12V to the pump only during warmup. Q.E.D.
I read it from one of the most widely used by tech schools. Modern automotive technology by James E. Duffy on pg. 965.
yomomisjesus Then tell the publisher they are wrong and you have irrefutable proof
So no O2 is forced into Cat to help it burn emissions?
yomomisjesus not when engine is warmed up
"Obviously", "Clearly" would be much more obvious and clear if the object were actually pointed out. There is so much clutter, which component are we looking at?
Obviously you missed that this is an advanced channel for people who already know the basics. We are looking at the components I mentioned and you can clearly see them.
19:15 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👨🏾🔧
My air pump stays on humming after I turn off my Tahoe.
check for ground fault.
delete the AIR system and use what is left of it for crankcase ventilation to exhaust.
That is not the purpose of the AIR system. KNOW AND UNDERSTAND THE SYSTEM YOU ARE CRITICIZING!!!!!
I know the purpose. Would rather have cleaner engine bay.
What is the purpose of the AIR system then?
basically to replenish combustion reaction with oxygen
ABsolutely INCORRECT. It is not even part of the combustion reaction. WRONG.
Like I said- LEARN THE SYSTEM.
This is a site based on accuracy not armchair hacks talking smack like on chatrooms and other sites.
lol "hopefully with both hands on your ipad"
i'm the rip thing out guy.
And exactly how do you determine what to rip out?
Schrodingers Box
It was an admission of ignorance. But thanks for shedding some light on it.:)
lerch25 ohhhhh lol. Well you are on the right channel if you want to change that. So far I know of at least 30 confirmed conversions. One of them posts very regularly- it was awesome seeing how the types of questions he asked clearly showed him moving from being a parts changer to a diagnostician. In fact in some of his recent comments he even pointed out some variables I overlooked! I always welcome people looking to improve their thinking and diagnostic approach.
Schrodingers Box
I wouldn't be here if i wanted continue on as i was. Thx again:)
You lost me when you started trash talking the men who are more knowledgeable than you in the online forums. When i don't know something and my repair manual isn't detailed nearly enough, thats exactly who helps me get shit done. Of course I don't take one person's opinion as fact, I take the consensus from 3 different forums and they haven't failed me yet. As for finding the pump, I dont typically ask for help finding obvious things, but rather vehicle symptoms and diagnostic help
So in other worlds you take the consensus of multiple sources in forums who, like yourself, have absolutely no clue what they are talking about as opposed to one source in a forum who doesn’t know what they are talking about.
And they haven’t failed you yet HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
And yet here I am actually showing and explaining the mechanistic theories and that’s a waste of your time.
You kill me bruh.
lol. nice ipad joke.
It's a PITA.
CEL triggered for nothing that REALLY affects the running or performance of the vehicle.
Tree hugger BS.
It affects emissions, not running or performance.