I just changed both of the secondary air valves today on my 05 Tundra. I replaced mine (Dorman valves) without taking the intake out because I wasn't changing any parts located under the intake. If your hands and arms are not too big you can lay a thick piece of foam on the engine, lay across your engine and get your hands back there to remove the valves (take any rings and watch off). You'll need to remove the two wiring harness bolts (you'll need to jam a piece of wood to lift the harness up) and the bolt holding the cable housing to the fire wall (I tied the harness and this cable housing back to give me more room). Tools you will need: A swivel head 1/4" ratchet (a very important tool, mine was made by Titan and purchased for $17 at O'rielly's auto parts), a 10mm 6 point socket, a short 1/4" extension or 10mm 1/4" deep socket, a 12" long 1/4" extension, a flashlight and some patience. It can be done and you'll save yourself a ton of time.
I’m fortunate enough that I was close to home when I got the pump noise, check engine light, loss of power combo. Got codes that pointed me in this direction and fortunately there’s enough of these good videos that saved me a chunk of change. I appreciate the camera quality, the to-the-point guide through the process and the fact that we are here today with trucks that are still worth keeping in the road. I love the Japanese 2U-ZFE, but you can definitely tell there’s some areas where the American workmanship reveals itself. At the end of the day, this is a fairly easy vehicle to work on and I encourage others to do the work themselves, mind as well do some other maintenance while you’ve got things apart.
We started out loving this 06 Tundra, but then we started finding things that soured us on this truck. Serious frame rust to the point where it looked like the frame was going to rust in two ( known problem). The other problem was with the braking. I could stand on the pedal while driving and truck was hard to stop, tires didn't skid (ABS didn't kick in when doing a hard brake check unless on loose gravel). I replaced EVERYTHING in the system short of the ABS module; master cylinder, booster, discs, pads rotors, inspected and adjusted rear brakes, checked hoses, and bled a gazillion times, pedal never improved. It was telling to me that Toyota knew they had a braking problem with the design when I ordered 2 different master cylinder/ boosters and received two different designs each time and neither was right for my model year. After mucho research I finally found the design $$$ that was used on my truck. That was 3 different master cylinders and 3 different boosters all applicable to the same model truck ( engine, cab, 4WD). I couldn't drive it, let alone tow anything with it out of fear of having make a hard stop and rear ending somebody. I talked to somebody at the dealership and they said they heard of this complaint for other owners. We replaced it with an F-150, given our experience with this 06 Tundra, we lost faith in Toyota's trucks.
I had the exact same course of events and made no sense. The technician diagnosed the same. Excellent video and instructions. Thanks for taking the time to record this.
Foot's about as good as it will get, it's been slower than I thought (I'm not 18 anymore), don't think the foot will ever be back to 100%, but I'll take what I can and be happy with it.
For Air Injection Pump issues after you fix them they will most likely fail again whether you use OEM or aftermarket. Mine failed 2x after the 2nd time I got a Hewill bypass kit truck has been running great ever since
Very good job. I have a 2000 Tundra with 4.7 and for years experience a power loss/no acceleration issue. Have replaced everything (MAF sensor, new NGK plugs, new Denso coils, new knock sensors) and hoped this air valve may be the culprit, but my 2000 does not have this; at least not in the same location as yours. You troubleshooting skills are excellent! Thank you for sharing.
I’d gladly appreciate this video. Would like that pdf file too. Oh nm I found them. Wow lots of pages. Thanks! Hey hope your doing good with your leg stay safe.
Glad I could be of help and thanks for asking about my leg; it's been almost a year since the ladder slipped out and I broke my heel and I 'think' I'm about back to normal. Crutches and a borrowed knee scooter got my left knee all jacked up, had to get a couple cortisone shots to get that smoothed out. Knee still pops and snaps a lot if I've had it bent or kneeling for while during the day. Took forever for the swelling to go away while the sporadic, random, shooting pain in my foot and leg took a lot longer. Back in Sept my boss was watching me gimp across the hanger and asked "Is this the new normal?" I told him "I hope not". I've broken toes, an arm, blown out back numerous times (those really suck!), but the broken foot has been the worst so far. I wouldn't wish that on anybody.
Thanks. When I was younger, almost 40 years ago, I was a AH-1 Attack Helicopter Weapons Systems Instructor in the US Army. I taught the mini-guns, grenade launchers, 20 mm cannons, missiles, rockets, fire control and sighting systems. I taught everyday for 2 years before reenlisting and changing jobs to AH64 Apache Repair Technician. Those were fun times, but then again getting older and looking back it was all fun times.
oh no you bought aftermarket. Our shop has done several of these and found not buying OEM bit us in the ass hard on these parts to where we started suggesting OEM because to have to pull the manifold again 6 months to a year and half tops later to replace the valves again did not make our customers happy. I say use aftermarket in situations where it won't leave you stranded and does not involve big labor time. In the secondary air injection arena use OEM always
I'm running into the same problem, mine said bank 1 is bad.this guy got me all confused he showed the right side check valve changed, but he said it belongs to the left side, so which side did he replace right or left? Bank 1 or bank 2?
It's easy enough to pull the EGR cooler, EGR valve, and intake. Look at them, guarantee they're clogged. Clean everything out and put it back together. There's plenty of YT vids on how to pull the EGR cooler and valve. If you've done this before it can be done in a day, otherwise plan on taking a weekend to do it right, One day to get it apart and clean, a second day to put it together. You've really got to soak these parts in some strong cleaner and rinse thru numerous times to really get it clean (it'll easily take an afternoon just getting out the gunk and carbon from the cooler, valve, and intake ports). Not kidding, cleaning is very time consuming. You'll want to get it as clean as possible or you'll be doing it again in 6 months. Or just buy new parts and replace: $$$ V.S. Your Time.
Muy bien video, de mucha utilidad. Tengo el mismo problema en mi tundra 2006 4.7, solo que me arroja falla en relay de bomba secundaria de inyección de aire, he buscado en diagramas y no encuentro cuál es el relay, si me puedes ayudar con el diagrama eléctrico para ubicarlo físicamente te lo agradecería. Saludos de México!
I just changed both of the secondary air valves today on my 05 Tundra. I replaced mine (Dorman valves) without taking the intake out because I wasn't changing any parts located under the intake. If your hands and arms are not too big you can lay a thick piece of foam on the engine, lay across your engine and get your hands back there to remove the valves (take any rings and watch off). You'll need to remove the two wiring harness bolts (you'll need to jam a piece of wood to lift the harness up) and the bolt holding the cable housing to the fire wall (I tied the harness and this cable housing back to give me more room). Tools you will need: A swivel head 1/4" ratchet (a very important tool, mine was made by Titan and purchased for $17 at O'rielly's auto parts), a 10mm 6 point socket, a short 1/4" extension or 10mm 1/4" deep socket, a 12" long 1/4" extension, a flashlight and some patience. It can be done and you'll save yourself a ton of time.
Thanks for the tip
I’m fortunate enough that I was close to home when I got the pump noise, check engine light, loss of power combo. Got codes that pointed me in this direction and fortunately there’s enough of these good videos that saved me a chunk of change.
I appreciate the camera quality, the to-the-point guide through the process and the fact that we are here today with trucks that are still worth keeping in the road. I love the Japanese 2U-ZFE, but you can definitely tell there’s some areas where the American workmanship reveals itself. At the end of the day, this is a fairly easy vehicle to work on and I encourage others to do the work themselves, mind as well do some other maintenance while you’ve got things apart.
We started out loving this 06 Tundra, but then we started finding things that soured us on this truck.
Serious frame rust to the point where it looked like the frame was going to rust in two ( known problem).
The other problem was with the braking. I could stand on the pedal while driving and truck was hard to stop, tires didn't skid (ABS didn't kick in when doing a hard brake check unless on loose gravel). I replaced EVERYTHING in the system short of the ABS module; master cylinder, booster, discs, pads rotors, inspected and adjusted rear brakes, checked hoses, and bled a gazillion times, pedal never improved. It was telling to me that Toyota knew they had a braking problem with the design when I ordered 2 different master cylinder/ boosters and received two different designs each time and neither was right for my model year. After mucho research I finally found the design $$$ that was used on my truck. That was 3 different master cylinders and 3 different boosters all applicable to the same model truck ( engine, cab, 4WD).
I couldn't drive it, let alone tow anything with it out of fear of having make a hard stop and rear ending somebody. I talked to somebody at the dealership and they said they heard of this complaint for other owners.
We replaced it with an F-150, given our experience with this 06 Tundra, we lost faith in Toyota's trucks.
I had the exact same course of events and made no sense. The technician diagnosed the same. Excellent video and instructions. Thanks for taking the time to record this.
Thanks for the video, Rob!
Hope your leg has healed well
Foot's about as good as it will get, it's been slower than I thought (I'm not 18 anymore), don't think the foot will ever be back to 100%, but I'll take what I can and be happy with it.
For Air Injection Pump issues after you fix them they will most likely fail again whether you use OEM or aftermarket. Mine failed 2x after the 2nd time I got a Hewill bypass kit truck has been running great ever since
Very good job. I have a 2000 Tundra with 4.7 and for years experience a power loss/no acceleration issue. Have replaced everything (MAF sensor, new NGK plugs, new Denso coils, new knock sensors) and hoped this air valve may be the culprit, but my 2000 does not have this; at least not in the same location as yours. You troubleshooting skills are excellent! Thank you for sharing.
you are awesome ! thank you sir for what you do big help.
Great video!! Very helpful.
This sounds more like a jury trial.....😮😂😂😂 than a vehicle information video. 😂😂😂
I’d gladly appreciate this video. Would like that pdf file too. Oh nm I found them. Wow lots of pages. Thanks!
Hey hope your doing good with your leg stay safe.
Glad I could be of help and thanks for asking about my leg; it's been almost a year since the ladder slipped out and I broke my heel and I 'think' I'm about back to normal.
Crutches and a borrowed knee scooter got my left knee all jacked up, had to get a couple cortisone shots to get that smoothed out. Knee still pops and snaps a lot if I've had it bent or kneeling for while during the day.
Took forever for the swelling to go away while the sporadic, random, shooting pain in my foot and leg took a lot longer.
Back in Sept my boss was watching me gimp across the hanger and asked "Is this the new normal?" I told him "I hope not".
I've broken toes, an arm, blown out back numerous times (those really suck!), but the broken foot has been the worst so far. I wouldn't wish that on anybody.
You are very good doing this video, I would say you could work also as a technical instructor. You are highly qualified.
Thanks. When I was younger, almost 40 years ago, I was a AH-1 Attack Helicopter Weapons Systems Instructor in the US Army. I taught the mini-guns, grenade launchers, 20 mm cannons, missiles, rockets, fire control and sighting systems. I taught everyday for 2 years before reenlisting and changing jobs to AH64 Apache Repair Technician. Those were fun times, but then again getting older and looking back it was all fun times.
@@robrig1646 wowwwwwwwwwwwww
what toyota group did you go to/
oh no you bought aftermarket. Our shop has done several of these and found not buying OEM bit us in the ass hard on these parts to where we started suggesting OEM because to have to pull the manifold again 6 months to a year and half tops later to replace the valves again did not make our customers happy. I say use aftermarket in situations where it won't leave you stranded and does not involve big labor time. In the secondary air injection arena use OEM always
I just installed non-OEM. It didn't work right out of the box. Time to start all over again.
What’s the part number for that valve you ordered from Amazon?
Don't remember, I did this jib over 3 years ago
I'm running into the same problem, mine said bank 1 is bad.this guy got me all confused he showed the right side check valve changed, but he said it belongs to the left side, so which side did he replace right or left? Bank 1 or bank 2?
It's easy enough to pull the EGR cooler, EGR valve, and intake. Look at them, guarantee they're clogged. Clean everything out and put it back together. There's plenty of YT vids on how to pull the EGR cooler and valve.
If you've done this before it can be done in a day, otherwise plan on taking a weekend to do it right, One day to get it apart and clean, a second day to put it together.
You've really got to soak these parts in some strong cleaner and rinse thru numerous times to really get it clean (it'll easily take an afternoon just getting out the gunk and carbon from the cooler, valve, and intake ports). Not kidding, cleaning is very time consuming. You'll want to get it as clean as possible or you'll be doing it again in 6 months.
Or just buy new parts and replace: $$$ V.S. Your Time.
Muy bien video, de mucha utilidad. Tengo el mismo problema en mi tundra 2006 4.7, solo que me arroja falla en relay de bomba secundaria de inyección de aire, he buscado en diagramas y no encuentro cuál es el relay, si me puedes ayudar con el diagrama eléctrico para ubicarlo físicamente te lo agradecería. Saludos de México!
Check for a relay with "Air" in its name under the hood.
should of bought a 2005 no limp mode
No true. My 2005 is in limp mode right now.