I've known a handful of people with uz powered vehicles. I think I knew one who had to replace it. Doesnt seem to be any more reliable/unreliable than a traditional placed starter.
I was just scrolling the comments for a tech to back up the fact that they don't go bad. It's not the hottest part of the engine by any means as ANY other location means that the starter will be next to a ridiculously hot exhaust manifold.
dude you could be tearing down the same engine every week and i'd enjoy it, seeing the things that can go wrong and your personality make any video fun to watch
Hands down my favorite gasoline motor ever produced. My 2005 tundra has 700000 miles on it right now. i plan on keeping it for as long as possible. Might eve break a world record idk lol. anyways, thanks for the video! it was very informative! Its videos like these make me subscribe and remember who to buy parts from.
Future Tip: These engines have block drain ports/valves from the factory. They're at the bottom of each bank of cylinders, near the oil pan rail. They let you drain all the coolant.
My '03 Tundra is about to turn 600,000 miles. The mileage is the same as the day I bought it new. Virtually no oil being consumed. You take care of these engines and they will take care of you.
Also it's amazing the amount of abuse and neglect these UZ engines can take and still run fine. I got a LS430 with the 4.3 3UZ in at the dealer like a year ago, vehicle had over 200k on it and the customer had gone almost 10k miles on their oil change interval (factory recommended interval is 5k miles) and came in complaining of a light knocking noise (this car was clapped out and had lived a rough life by how rough it looked). I checked the oil level and was getting nothing on the dipstick. These cars hold 5.5 quarts of oil and I had to put in 4.5 quarts to get the oil level right. This car was running around for who knows how long on only a quart of very dirty overdue oil. I drove the car for a good while after filling it up and did a full oil change and was expecting glitter to come out and the filter to have metal in it and after changing the oil it was veryyyy dirty but no metal in it. Did the second oil change and let it run and the noise went away completely and the customer took it.... mind blown! Love those amazing Toyota/Lexus UZ engines they are extremely under rated especially by people who don't know much about them.
Generally very good motor, but I’m gonna also be the unpopular opinion.. the fact they need a T-belt every 90k miles almost guarantees they don’t fully get abused. With that said I enjoy my LX470.
It's just a very well designed, very well engineered motor. All my vehicles are Toyotas. They're the only brand that has earned my loyalty by their performance and reliability.
That engine just needs a refresh, clean up the pistons, new rings and bearings and give the bores a bit of a hone and it's probably good for another 20 years with regular use and maintenance. Nice to see a teardown that doesn't end up with confetti in the oilpan,
Yeah but I'd rather just not deal with an engine so fragile that sitting for a year destroys it. Why I'm gonna take the 4.6 out of my '99 P-71 Crown Vic and slap a 302 Windsor in instead. Backdate to a more durable engine, throw a manual trans in it while I'm at it, and be done with the matter. Also gonna put a 4bbl carb in instead of messing with EFI; part of why the 4.6 is blown in the first damn place is EFI problems.
@@TestECull I never had any EFI issues with my '03 P71. What I did have problems with were sparkplug/ignition coil wells filling up with oil. After that was handled, cylinder #3 blew its spark plug out of the head. No. I didn't over torque it. The head barely has 3-4 turns worth of aluminum holding the spark plug in. I bought a heli-coil kit, made the repair on the driveway and it was ok. I sold it at 199,800 miles.
@@2006gtobob On mine, the injectors just stopped closing off. It was running stupid rich and getting around 5-7mpg, was stumbling on part throttle cruise and at idle...ran like a hot damn full blast though. At the time I couldn't afford to buy all eight injectors so I parked it and went back to driving my F150...funnily enough I had bought the 'vic so I could do an engine overhaul on that just due to old age...by the time I had saved up and bought injectors the cylinder walls had rusted up about like we see in this engine. I put them in, started it up. It only fired on 7. Puked blue out the back. I took it on a quarter mile testdrive, during which time it drank 3-4 quarts of oil and spat the dipstick out of the tube. Parked it again and it hasn't moved since. Been sitting there for 4 years now while I mulled over what engine I was gonna swap into it since I had to contend with the emissions test in my area plugging into the ECU for a '99. Well, effective Jan 14, 2022, my county of Tennessee is dropping emissions testing, so I'm just gonna slam a 302w 4bbl in it mated to a 5-speed likely yanked out of a Mustang and be done with the matter. No more EFI, no more fragile modern engine, no more automatic trans. Win win win if you ask me. If I don't have to get it sniffed anymore I don't need to worry about all the DTCs it's going to throw when it powers on and doesn't detect that an engine's even in the car. I haven't decided how I'm gonna light it off yet. I might just go points; I'm not building a hotrod here merely getting the car driveable again with an engine I know will last and last. Performance goal is roughly equivalent to the way the 4.6 pulled before it blew up. Points simplify wiring to an almost stupid degree as all I need to do is find a 10 amp KEO circuit and wire that to the coil +, and honestly they're not a big deal to work with on a Windsor V8. But I might also go with a hall effect pickup and an MSD 6AL fender mounted box. Maybe after the swap is done and I've driven it a bit I'll have autozombie pull codes for s's and g's.
There is definitely a market for buckets of brand specific bolts. A local Suzuki 4X4 shop( Trail Tough) has been selling them for years. I bought 2 many years ago. Best purchase I have ever made when I was playing with Sammies.
We tend to fill a Costco coffee can with any vehicle-specific fastenners when we part out a car to supply spares for one of our race cars (usually selling interior and exterior trim then crushing it). Generic stuff just goes the most used 5 cans: metric bolts, metric nuts, SAE bolts, SAE nuts, washers and spacers. At the track we kinda of stage them in a place anyone can get to as other teams ae always asking for XYZ. So yeah, for those that do not part out a car or two every year, model specific bucket of bolts have value for sure. Get into something like a BMW E46 or newer and there are so many specialty nuts, bolts, studs, etc I can image those would have more value than say a late-model Tundra but I could be wrong. I certainly see a niche, discontinued brand like your Suzuki being very valuable. Even the crappy Neon I rehabbed for someone that needed a cheap car getting back on their feet and four bolts on the rear suspension that at least two snap on removal...two of the bolts are $35 each and about a week lead time and the other two are NLA.
Years ago when in the Honda/Acura swap scene when we had free reign at the junkyard we ALWAYS snagged as many 8 and 10mm bolts we could get our ratchets on.
It's nice to see and hear you work on these engines... Honestly if I weren't so old, I'd come and apply for a job... No swearing, funny, informative, a triple crown! Thanx again! 😎
As someone who makes money selling it (likely to the engine swap guys), it is in his best interest as well. Sill, wish more folks would try a little harder in the commercial world but even more so at self service yards.
No issues with the 4.7 2000 Tundra in the 21 years I've owned it. It only has 89K miles on it at this point. I would drive it until the wheels fall off but I think my wheel are going to fall off first. Great video, always wanted to see the inside the 4.7 motor as long as it wasn't my motor.
My friend I graduated in 1999 and for graduation he got a brand new 99 Tacoma. We both became lift operators at snoqualmie pass and commuted every day to the mountain in that thing. We put crazy miles on that thing. But point of my story is we ran out of gas one time and he decided to use the clutch start cancel button to start the truck in gear wich caused the truck to drive forwards on just the starter. We wen 2MILES!!! Like that all the way to the gas station. Later less than a year later we ended up replacing the starter solenoid and eventually a clutch but that’s it incredibly tough trucks.
Many times I have bought what’s called a “Lot” of bolts/hardware from a engine, car, and especially motorcycle tear down on eBay. Many times they are less than $100 plus shipping for the lot but sometimes they are a $100+ depending the situation. It’s a great way to replace hard to find hardware, not sure how profitable it is as it does require throwing all of the bolts in a small bin, taking a few pictures and inventory etc… but it’s helpful for us that like to work on stuff.
Great video. Back 40 years ago when I worked a side job pulling engines in a junk yard I would get my ass chewed out for not draining coolant from the engines that I pulled.
@@whoopdeedoop6587 I've done more to fix chassis rust on my 01 than anything to the motor. I'm convinced the motor will pull loose from the frame before it let's go
@@whoopdeedoop6587 I have a 2000 4.7 tundra. I love it! I had an 03 until a wreck did it in. But it drove away from its own wreck that i had driving it. And it drove itself on a tow truck with a 7,000 lb loaded utility trailer behind it when it was totally demolished (9,000 in damages) by the previous owner’s employee. I love these trucks! So much that I swapped the frame out in my driveway on the 2000 I have.
I have a first gen 1uz I put in a 89 Isuzu Trooper. They are a bulletproof engine. The starter while hard to access are overbuilt and rarely have an issue. 400-500k is not unheard of out of them. Most people don't realize the 1uz was designed for CART racing originally before they used it in the LS400. 6 bolt main, beefy rods, and non interference unlike the later models. Has a great sound too, with no vibration at all. Great series of engines.
I did maintenance on a ton of those motors, never saw a failure that wasn't from neglect and it had to be way beyond the usual neglect. Stick a "service bolt in the spring loaded scissors gear on the driven cam makes things a lot easier. Great presentation!
03 sequoia with this engine in it, 3 inch lift on the rear and 2 1/2 lift on the front, running 33" BFG's, and drives like the day i bought it. 7k between oil changes with synthetic oil only, did a valve cover gasket at 210k miles, looked super clean, definitely not like the one you just took apart... Haven't had to replace the starter, but have stared at it cursing the engineer that laughed when he put it there. Great motor, smoothest running engine ive ever had, and starts right up every time.
Change that timing belt please. Mine just broke at 340k mi and now I am needing to consider phase two of the battle wagons future. Had changed at 120k and 240k prior.
The cam caps are marked per side so you don’t need to worry about getting them mixed up. They are marked by side, intake/exhaust, and number. There is even an arrow telling you which way goes to the front of the engine
Specialty hardware is something so many people overlook. So hard to find new. Any time I go to the style serve years I never leave without a lot of hardware you don't get at the store. Bolts with large captured washers especially. Flanged lock nuts, anything clean. That stuff is invaluable in a pinch. I have a hardware tackle box I bring on all my long trips because you just never know
I just bought a 07 sequoia same engine. 229 k miles. Hope it runs a long time. Due for timing belt.just did trans and both diffs and oil change. So fluids are fresh.
You’re a good tech, bro. You are conscientious in your work and I’d say 80% is text book the proper way to do it, the rest coming from your experience and knowing where you can short cut. There are a lot of bad wrenches her on RUclips, butchers that make me cringe, but really enjoy watching you work 👍🏼
There are two 2007 tundra’s with the 4.7 that made it over 1,000,000 miles. That’s one of the best engines Toyota ever made. I had a Sequoia with over 230,000 miles with that engine.
By far the best engine I've owned. Had one with 300k and still ran great in a 2001 Tundra. You have to really have to mistreat these engines to break them.
That was awesome! Thoroughly enjoyed your tear down. I have a 1st gen Tundra with one of these (I've worked on it a fair amount too) and I quite enjoyed seeing the 2UZ disassembled like this. Thanks!
Two tools I have not seen you use Eric: Magnet on a stick (instant retreival of 12s in the valley), compound diagonals (wire cutters) - once used you'll never go back... Great video as always....
I part a lot of Honda's and Toyota's. I also save all the good bolts for my personal cars and friends. They go in a big bucket and I get my kid to sort them into the right bins. Also, get yourself a set of cable cutters. They cut through hose and thick harnesses like butter.
I really appreciate how you leave your mistakes in so we can learn from them the way you did. That makes me respect the opinions you express so much more. I love this channel!!
Thanks for the great videos. You always talk about oiling issues killing engines. You should make a video just about oil, oil change intervals, bad oil vs. good oil, etc.
There was a coolant line to the throttle body. This is a truck engine, so the throttle plate will see plenty of vacuum, and the throttle body itself may see freezing temperatures as a result, even in the summer; This is why there is a coolant line to warm it up. Light airplanes typically have a carburetor heat knob for this exact purpose.
Remember that this engine was made to go in the Land Cruiser. The location up top keeps it dry and away from water during crossings. They are also known to last 100s of thousands of miles and decades without going out. My 06' 2uz still has oem starter. Pops off like a champ! I also think its part of the design for its versatility. The 2uzfe shares the 1uzfe block in large part. The 1uzfe was designed to go into not only verhicle but airplane and marine applications as well. I think the starter packaging aside from the known benefits assists with this versatile packaging as well.
still using the original starter that is on my Impala with 260k miles. they definitely make them better than they did years ago. i had to take the starter off to do some transmission work and they dont even use shims anymore. just bolt it up and go. plug and play!
I own one of these in my 2003 v8 4runner. Pulled my 5500lb loaded TT for a year straight as we traveled full time. 190k-207k it pulled that trailer. Still feels new. Even the trans which I have gotten to 250 degrees on hills. Just has the pesky tranfer case leak. Now that is worst then the starter.
I don't even wench on cars, but I love your teardown vids. I find them calming, you're the Bob Ross of the garage.... maybe it's all those happy little coolant accidents?
I'm restoring the interior of my gx470 and I could use a bucket of bolts. One of the previous owners removed seats to install amps/undeseat subwoofer, and they cross threaded several, among other really dumb stuff
Aw man, that was just surface rust on those bores. I bet you could have gotten the two low cylinders to pump up with some Lucas Therapy. What a great engine. Yes I own one. It’s the strongest 240-rated-hp engine I’ve ever driven.
I've seen my fair share of older timing belt engines that run just fine even though they are sludged. Not even a tick noise. They have no variable valve timing, and the timing belt doesn't need oil whereas a chain would get destroyed.
if you got that started in the original vehicle a big can of engine restore with an Italian tune-up would have probably put the compression back into spec. sometimes when an engine sits for awhile the rings get crappy at and running the engine will re seat them nicely.
So on many Toyota dohc engines that have the cams geared together, the one split gear is spring tensioned to keep backlash and gear noise down. The prevent them from unwinding (only unwinds one tooth) there is a threaded bolt hole running through the gear to lock it. Makes reinstalling them properly way easier.
My 2002 Toyota sequoia has 355,000 miles. Runs like a top. 2 things that suck on it. The AC compressors fail every like 90,000 and the ball joints are known to give out (I did have the front end drop on me) Over all I Love this engine, couldn't be happier with its performance.
I had my driver side lbj snap on me at 189k it has 275k now and going strong. The ac runs. Fine never replaced the compressor knock on wood. I did change the radiator and the starter.
Toyota (and Honda) do such a nice job engineering their engines not only to last but to be relatively easy to work on. Compare this to a similar vintage BMW V8 with 200K and all the issues they have (Nikasil anyone?), special tools needed, etc. Even making the coolant crossover pipes castings or steel instead of rubber hoses is a sign of engineering done right instead of shaving every penny out of the design. Despite not having poor maintenance with oil changes all the bearings, journals, and valve train are nearly like new in this engine. Contrast that with a poorly maintained Dodge V8 that spin bearings, drop valve seats, rocker arms fall off, etc. Or the Jeep 4 liter inline 6 that have about 10 PSI of oil pressure when they have even 100K on them (while the fake oil pressure gauge reads normal-they don’t even have an oil pressure sender just a switch).
My biggest gripe with Toyota: the 1MZ-FE (3.0L) and the 3MZ-FE (3.3L) are interference engines with timing belts. Other than that, I'm impressed with the reliability my Toyotas have given me, and how easy they have been to service or repair.
oh i DESPISED the 01 Avalon i had, that 3.0 was an oil burning, detonating, rear head gasket eating nightmare!!! 2 transmission replacements in 99k miles, and when the 3rd one failed at 126,836 miles, I donated that pig to the local fire department for a jaws of life practice vehicle, with the addendum that i be there to make the first cut, and much to my unexpected satisfaction, they also used it as a burn car as well, one of the best days of my life watching that thing get destroyed!!!!
Just for the record, Toyota(bless their hearts) from the factory install little coolant drain spouts in most, if not all of their modern engine blocks for draining the water jackets. The 1UR, 3UR, and this 2UZ all had them on both sides, they are wonderfully handy, not every engine tear down has to turn you into Miles Davis.
8:31 I own a 1UZFE which is lot like this engine. I bought the car used as my daily driver in 2011 and didn't need to replace the starter until March of 2021. So, yeah, it's a bit of work to replace it, but if you only do it once every ten years......... the starter that failed was a Denso remanufactured unit.
Those bearings looked great considering the lack of care this engine received, as far as oil changes. To get this vehicle running well again, I'd put a few ounces of MMO in each cylinder, let it soak for a few days and I bet that would help clear the rings a lot.
Have a 00 Tundra with the same engine and had to replace the engine with 270K miles. Dealer wanted almost 7k just to put a used engine with almost 200k on it. HA!!! Found one with supposedly less miles had it installed and learned the hard way that sometimes when something is too good to be true, it usually is. Wished the person who did the install would have seen your video on how to remove the wiring harness because they hacked in the the original and the truck hasn't ran quite right. Live and learn, Enjoyed the video, very informative.
On my second V8 2006 Tundra, first had 350K when sold. Bought a grandpa 2006 with 62K and hope it my last truck. Neither truck has had any repairs. I use oil analysis from BDL and new full timing belt kit every 90K. Nice tear down. Bob
Toyota has coolant cross over and doesn't have overheating issues. While competitors have coolant cross over in the front which useless and overheating problems.
i got a 2uz. It's got 250k on it and the motor runs like the day i bought it. This engine needs to work. It seems like the harder and longer I run this truck the better it performs. The 2uz is not a performance engine but it is reliable af. Edit: failure point=power adders
License plate on the Beemer is hilarious Amazing how good the bearings and main bearings look Another reason why those engines are said to be able to last 1 million miles
I have a 2003 Sequoia and that same engine purs like a kitten..At 198,000 miles it does'nt leak or use a drop of oil and when i change it still looks like golden honey on the dip stick. has had a very good life with great service records. / I'm shooting for 300,000 K.
I’m delighted to see this tear down. I have two 05 sequoias, one with 265k and one with 210k. The engines have been great in both. Mine is used for extensive highway driving while the wife’s just goes to the grocery and short trips. Absolutely love the Sequoia. In both, while replacing valve cover gaskets, i noticed the discolored, glazed situation on the driver’s side of the engines,while the passenger sides were pretty much pristine. This was the situation on both vehicles. Wondering if anyone has insight as to why that would occur. The one with 265k was purchased with 60k on it and the wife’s was purchased with 190k. Since purchase, oil is changed religiously at 4K miles. Love the channel and content
Survey Says - Replacing Tundra starter should not cost over $1000. Tundra starters last well up to 75000 miles but after that need for replacement dramatically increases. Its good to have a friend who owns a boneyard. . . I mean auto recycling facility. Thanks for the video.
I’ll vouch for the starters! They’re a lot easier on these than the 1UZ, as the rear coolant crossover blocks your access to the starter bolts, as well as the EGR pipe (don’t believe 2UZ/3UZ had EGR) which the tube always breaks and is a bear to replace. Takes me about half the time to to a truck/ LS430 starter as compared to an LS400 starter
Toyota mechanic of ten years, I've done four UZ starters in that time. They're not that bad to do, but very reliable overall.
I've known a handful of people with uz powered vehicles. I think I knew one who had to replace it. Doesnt seem to be any more reliable/unreliable than a traditional placed starter.
Is that rubber timing belt a problem or is it durable?
@@albrownmd not a problem, toyota specs 90k replacement intervals but ive heard of people going 200k without issue.
I was just scrolling the comments for a tech to back up the fact that they don't go bad. It's not the hottest part of the engine by any means as ANY other location means that the starter will be next to a ridiculously hot exhaust manifold.
@@84Prerunner You mean they got lucky, if your 110% past the manufacturer interval your risking massive damage.
10:00 I'm more impressed you caught it on the bounce
Makes two of us!
I own 2 vehicles with 2UZFE power plants, combined they total nearly 700k miles. Both still run flawlessly and are daily driven.
Sad part is there will never be another engine platform produced that is as reliable.
Mine is about 500K miles and still strong... love the 2UZ so much I don't mine their fuel thirsty behavior 😅
@@ej254 What kind of gas mileage you getting out of yours? Mine is like 15 city, 18 highway
@@timothyandrewnielsen 11 city 14 highway 2000 tundra 140,000 miles
I have a 3uzfe (ls430) which I love and am hear while shopping for a 2uz 😂 thanks for the encouragement!
dude you could be tearing down the same engine every week and i'd enjoy it, seeing the things that can go wrong and your personality make any video fun to watch
Yup
Absolutely... I need more of these videos faster! 😃
If this man died (May God forbid) i know exactly who to cast to play him in the movie.
@@ChuddleBuggy Adam Sandler?
@@gedungisphoopnuchle9121 nice name
Hands down my favorite gasoline motor ever produced. My 2005 tundra has 700000 miles on it right now. i plan on keeping it for as long as possible. Might eve break a world record idk lol. anyways, thanks for the video! it was very informative! Its videos like these make me subscribe and remember who to buy parts from.
How's the truck doin!?
I hope you hit a million!
How many miles are you up to?
Future Tip: These engines have block drain ports/valves from the factory. They're at the bottom of each bank of cylinders, near the oil pan rail. They let you drain all the coolant.
Looks like “his guy” that took the engine out didn’t even attempt to drain it. Hahahaha
@@I_know_what_im_talking_about sometimes if your hand is too big you cannot do anything lol
I was yelling this in my head the whole time
I was happy to find that on the Yaris I had when I did the coolant flush on it
@@ChrisReneP nice bird
My '03 Tundra is about to turn 600,000 miles. The mileage is the same as the day I bought it new. Virtually no oil being consumed.
You take care of these engines and they will take care of you.
Congratulations, you are the only person on this planet that had a bad 2UZ-FE
Also it's amazing the amount of abuse and neglect these UZ engines can take and still run fine. I got a LS430 with the 4.3 3UZ in at the dealer like a year ago, vehicle had over 200k on it and the customer had gone almost 10k miles on their oil change interval (factory recommended interval is 5k miles) and came in complaining of a light knocking noise (this car was clapped out and had lived a rough life by how rough it looked). I checked the oil level and was getting nothing on the dipstick. These cars hold 5.5 quarts of oil and I had to put in 4.5 quarts to get the oil level right. This car was running around for who knows how long on only a quart of very dirty overdue oil. I drove the car for a good while after filling it up and did a full oil change and was expecting glitter to come out and the filter to have metal in it and after changing the oil it was veryyyy dirty but no metal in it. Did the second oil change and let it run and the noise went away completely and the customer took it.... mind blown! Love those amazing Toyota/Lexus UZ engines they are extremely under rated especially by people who don't know much about them.
Don’t make enough power to hurt anything lol
@Silent but Deadly I'll take reliability over hurt any day.
@@JR-uc5oz mines a turd but does good for me I guess lol
Yeah, they are SOLID.
Generally very good motor, but I’m gonna also be the unpopular opinion.. the fact they need a T-belt every 90k miles almost guarantees they don’t fully get abused. With that said I enjoy my LX470.
It's just a very well designed, very well engineered motor. All my vehicles are Toyotas. They're the only brand that has earned my loyalty by their performance and reliability.
That engine just needs a refresh, clean up the pistons, new rings and bearings and give the bores a bit of a hone and it's probably good for another 20 years with regular use and maintenance. Nice to see a teardown that doesn't end up with confetti in the oilpan,
Yeah but I'd rather just not deal with an engine so fragile that sitting for a year destroys it. Why I'm gonna take the 4.6 out of my '99 P-71 Crown Vic and slap a 302 Windsor in instead. Backdate to a more durable engine, throw a manual trans in it while I'm at it, and be done with the matter. Also gonna put a 4bbl carb in instead of messing with EFI; part of why the 4.6 is blown in the first damn place is EFI problems.
@@TestECull Yeah, EFI is the problem and totally not the fucking donut who owns it. Yup, definitely that EFI.
break out the dingle ball and ship it.
@@TestECull I never had any EFI issues with my '03 P71. What I did have problems with were sparkplug/ignition coil wells filling up with oil. After that was handled, cylinder #3 blew its spark plug out of the head. No. I didn't over torque it. The head barely has 3-4 turns worth of aluminum holding the spark plug in. I bought a heli-coil kit, made the repair on the driveway and it was ok. I sold it at 199,800 miles.
@@2006gtobob On mine, the injectors just stopped closing off. It was running stupid rich and getting around 5-7mpg, was stumbling on part throttle cruise and at idle...ran like a hot damn full blast though. At the time I couldn't afford to buy all eight injectors so I parked it and went back to driving my F150...funnily enough I had bought the 'vic so I could do an engine overhaul on that just due to old age...by the time I had saved up and bought injectors the cylinder walls had rusted up about like we see in this engine.
I put them in, started it up. It only fired on 7. Puked blue out the back. I took it on a quarter mile testdrive, during which time it drank 3-4 quarts of oil and spat the dipstick out of the tube. Parked it again and it hasn't moved since. Been sitting there for 4 years now while I mulled over what engine I was gonna swap into it since I had to contend with the emissions test in my area plugging into the ECU for a '99.
Well, effective Jan 14, 2022, my county of Tennessee is dropping emissions testing, so I'm just gonna slam a 302w 4bbl in it mated to a 5-speed likely yanked out of a Mustang and be done with the matter. No more EFI, no more fragile modern engine, no more automatic trans. Win win win if you ask me. If I don't have to get it sniffed anymore I don't need to worry about all the DTCs it's going to throw when it powers on and doesn't detect that an engine's even in the car.
I haven't decided how I'm gonna light it off yet. I might just go points; I'm not building a hotrod here merely getting the car driveable again with an engine I know will last and last. Performance goal is roughly equivalent to the way the 4.6 pulled before it blew up. Points simplify wiring to an almost stupid degree as all I need to do is find a 10 amp KEO circuit and wire that to the coil +, and honestly they're not a big deal to work with on a Windsor V8. But I might also go with a hall effect pickup and an MSD 6AL fender mounted box.
Maybe after the swap is done and I've driven it a bit I'll have autozombie pull codes for s's and g's.
I've been an auto mechanic for 14 years. I that time I've done exactly two of those starters. Yes, they suck to do in the truck.
There is definitely a market for buckets of brand specific bolts. A local Suzuki 4X4 shop( Trail Tough) has been selling them for years. I bought 2 many years ago. Best purchase I have ever made when I was playing with Sammies.
I feel the exact same way
We tend to fill a Costco coffee can with any vehicle-specific fastenners when we part out a car to supply spares for one of our race cars (usually selling interior and exterior trim then crushing it). Generic stuff just goes the most used 5 cans: metric bolts, metric nuts, SAE bolts, SAE nuts, washers and spacers. At the track we kinda of stage them in a place anyone can get to as other teams ae always asking for XYZ.
So yeah, for those that do not part out a car or two every year, model specific bucket of bolts have value for sure. Get into something like a BMW E46 or newer and there are so many specialty nuts, bolts, studs, etc I can image those would have more value than say a late-model Tundra but I could be wrong. I certainly see a niche, discontinued brand like your Suzuki being very valuable. Even the crappy Neon I rehabbed for someone that needed a cheap car getting back on their feet and four bolts on the rear suspension that at least two snap on removal...two of the bolts are $35 each and about a week lead time and the other two are NLA.
My grandfather kept buckets of bolts around his shop his whole life. He had owned a gas station with mechanics bays in the 50s and 60s.
Years ago when in the Honda/Acura swap scene when we had free reign at the junkyard we ALWAYS snagged as many 8 and 10mm bolts we could get our ratchets on.
Awesome! I've wondered what a 2UZ looks like torn down. I've got a 2002 Tundra with 175K. Love it! Oil every 5K, plugs every 80K. Great engine! Thanks
Me too Mike. My 2000 Tundra had 132k on the OD. Changed the oil regularly and no oil burning. Very dependable engine.
When those valve covers came off, I immediately thought it just needed new rings with how clean it was inside and outside.
It's nice to see and hear you work on these engines... Honestly if I weren't so old, I'd come and apply for a job... No swearing, funny, informative, a triple crown! Thanx again! 😎
As a tech, thank you for not butchering the wiring harness.
As someone who makes money selling it (likely to the engine swap guys), it is in his best interest as well. Sill, wish more folks would try a little harder in the commercial world but even more so at self service yards.
Yep u r right,I’ve seen so many are using the pliers with force to remove the sensor plug
Wonderful, I hope this guys gets his hands on a Honda J-series V6 engine. Also, I’d love to see a breakdown of VW’s VR-series or W engines.
Second the Honda J Series V6. Have been hoping he gets one and takes it apart. Have one myself and love it. Over 280k miles and no problems.
The socket bounce was epic. I'd buy that magic socket off ya.
Boomerang socket! When I throw down my sockets, they never come back!
No issues with the 4.7 2000 Tundra in the 21 years I've owned it. It only has 89K miles on it at this point. I would drive it until the wheels fall off but I think my wheel are going to fall off first. Great video, always wanted to see the inside the 4.7 motor as long as it wasn't my motor.
My friend I graduated in 1999 and for graduation he got a brand new 99 Tacoma. We both became lift operators at snoqualmie pass and commuted every day to the mountain in that thing. We put crazy miles on that thing. But point of my story is we ran out of gas one time and he decided to use the clutch start cancel button to start the truck in gear wich caused the truck to drive forwards on just the starter. We wen 2MILES!!! Like that all the way to the gas station. Later less than a year later we ended up replacing the starter solenoid and eventually a clutch but that’s it incredibly tough trucks.
Many times I have bought what’s called a “Lot” of bolts/hardware from a engine, car, and especially motorcycle tear down on eBay. Many times they are less than $100 plus shipping for the lot but sometimes they are a $100+ depending the situation. It’s a great way to replace hard to find hardware, not sure how profitable it is as it does require throwing all of the bolts in a small bin, taking a few pictures and inventory etc… but it’s helpful for us that like to work on stuff.
Great video. Back 40 years ago when I worked a side job pulling engines in a junk yard I would get my ass chewed out for not draining coolant from the engines that I pulled.
"You'll need a new engine." Words a 2UZ owner will likely never hear.
2000 Tundra guy here, I’m always worried about somthin’ breaking but then I’m reminded that they last forever haha
Most it’ll ever need is rings
@@whoopdeedoop6587 I've done more to fix chassis rust on my 01 than anything to the motor. I'm convinced the motor will pull loose from the frame before it let's go
@@Lou_Spowells probably lmao
@@whoopdeedoop6587 I have a 2000 4.7 tundra. I love it! I had an 03 until a wreck did it in. But it drove away from its own wreck that i had driving it. And it drove itself on a tow truck with a 7,000 lb loaded utility trailer behind it when it was totally demolished (9,000 in damages) by the previous owner’s employee. I love these trucks! So much that I swapped the frame out in my driveway on the 2000 I have.
36MM of socket to get this off. made me laugh so hard my roommates asked if I was ok. love the vids man
Yeah, I'm pretty sure it doesn't work that way, but made perfect sense in this context, lol...
My 2001 Tundra will never get to sit for long enough to get cylinder bore rust, so I find this reassuring.
Glad to see that you are good to customers at your shop.
I have a first gen 1uz I put in a 89 Isuzu Trooper. They are a bulletproof engine. The starter while hard to access are overbuilt and rarely have an issue. 400-500k is not unheard of out of them. Most people don't realize the 1uz was designed for CART racing originally before they used it in the LS400. 6 bolt main, beefy rods, and non interference unlike the later models. Has a great sound too, with no vibration at all.
Great series of engines.
I did maintenance on a ton of those motors, never saw a failure that wasn't from neglect and it had to be way beyond the usual neglect. Stick a "service bolt in the spring loaded scissors gear on the driven cam makes things a lot easier. Great presentation!
Makes WHAT a lot easier?
03 sequoia with this engine in it, 3 inch lift on the rear and 2 1/2 lift on the front, running 33" BFG's, and drives like the day i bought it.
7k between oil changes with synthetic oil only, did a valve cover gasket at 210k miles, looked super clean, definitely not like the one you just took apart...
Haven't had to replace the starter, but have stared at it cursing the engineer that laughed when he put it there.
Great motor, smoothest running engine ive ever had, and starts right up every time.
Change that timing belt please. Mine just broke at 340k mi and now I am needing to consider phase two of the battle wagons future. Had changed at 120k and 240k prior.
The cam caps are marked per side so you don’t need to worry about getting them mixed up. They are marked by side, intake/exhaust, and number. There is even an arrow telling you which way goes to the front of the engine
I saw something I have never seen before on an V-8 engine . The pistons are marked LH and RH . Leave it to Toyota to be so precise !
Please do a video on the key programmer. I used to be a locksmith and am very interested.
I love the sound of bolts cracking open. Sounds like victory.
Specialty hardware is something so many people overlook. So hard to find new. Any time I go to the style serve years I never leave without a lot of hardware you don't get at the store. Bolts with large captured washers especially. Flanged lock nuts, anything clean. That stuff is invaluable in a pinch. I have a hardware tackle box I bring on all my long trips because you just never know
I just bought a 07 sequoia same engine. 229 k miles. Hope it runs a long time. Due for timing belt.just did trans and both diffs and oil change. So fluids are fresh.
Brother there's 3 things man cannot look away from;
1) fire
2) water flowing
3) greasy engine teardowns
Keep up the good work young man!!!
You’re a good tech, bro. You are conscientious in your work and I’d say 80% is text book the proper way to do it, the rest coming from your experience and knowing where you can short cut. There are a lot of bad wrenches her on RUclips, butchers that make me cringe, but really enjoy watching you work 👍🏼
Thank you!
The socket bounce to get the bolt out. I thought I'd never see anyone but me do that. Perfect form. Haha
There are two 2007 tundra’s with the 4.7 that made it over 1,000,000 miles. That’s one of the best engines Toyota ever made. I had a Sequoia with over 230,000 miles with that engine.
Нет, 1FZFE намного надёжнее и ресурснее этого двигателя, так что лутще что сделала тоета это 1 FZ FE!
@@ЭкскурсиипоСочииАбхазииошибаешься
By far the best engine I've owned. Had one with 300k and still ran great in a 2001 Tundra. You have to really have to mistreat these engines to break them.
That was awesome! Thoroughly enjoyed your tear down. I have a 1st gen Tundra with one of these (I've worked on it a fair amount too) and I quite enjoyed seeing the 2UZ disassembled like this. Thanks!
Two tools I have not seen you use Eric: Magnet on a stick (instant retreival of 12s in the valley), compound diagonals (wire cutters) - once used you'll never go back... Great video as always....
He uses magnets for spark plug removal quite often.
I part a lot of Honda's and Toyota's. I also save all the good bolts for my personal cars and friends. They go in a big bucket and I get my kid to sort them into the right bins.
Also, get yourself a set of cable cutters. They cut through hose and thick harnesses like butter.
I really appreciate how you leave your mistakes in so we can learn from them the way you did. That makes me respect the opinions you express so much more. I love this channel!!
I had an 03 4Runner with this 4.7 engine. Most reliable car I ever owned.
You have impeccable patience taking these engines apart. Thank you for sharing, and I hope you keep doing what you are doing!
Thanks for the great videos.
You always talk about oiling issues killing engines. You should make a video just about oil, oil change intervals, bad oil vs. good oil, etc.
Don’t forget about the 4th gen 4runners with the 4.7 with and without vvti
There was a coolant line to the throttle body. This is a truck engine, so the throttle plate will see plenty of vacuum, and the throttle body itself may see freezing temperatures as a result, even in the summer; This is why there is a coolant line to warm it up. Light airplanes typically have a carburetor heat knob for this exact purpose.
Remember that this engine was made to go in the Land Cruiser. The location up top keeps it dry and away from water during crossings. They are also known to last 100s of thousands of miles and decades without going out. My 06' 2uz still has oem starter. Pops off like a champ! I also think its part of the design for its versatility. The 2uzfe shares the 1uzfe block in large part. The 1uzfe was designed to go into not only verhicle but airplane and marine applications as well. I think the starter packaging aside from the known benefits assists with this versatile packaging as well.
still using the original starter that is on my Impala with 260k miles. they definitely make them better than they did years ago. i had to take the starter off to do some transmission work and they dont even use shims anymore. just bolt it up and go. plug and play!
I own one of these in my 2003 v8 4runner. Pulled my 5500lb loaded TT for a year straight as we traveled full time. 190k-207k it pulled that trailer. Still feels new. Even the trans which I have gotten to 250 degrees on hills. Just has the pesky tranfer case leak. Now that is worst then the starter.
I don't even wench on cars, but I love your teardown vids. I find them calming, you're the Bob Ross of the garage.... maybe it's all those happy little coolant accidents?
I feel like a weirdo, I would pay for a 5 gallon bucket of decent random automotive bolts...
My nuts and bolts bin could use a refill lol
I would pay for one to
Me too, would be satisfying to open a box of random crap.
I run demolition derby and I've saved all the bolts from a car when I stripped it and actually had luck selling them.
I'm restoring the interior of my gx470 and I could use a bucket of bolts. One of the previous owners removed seats to install amps/undeseat subwoofer, and they cross threaded several, among other really dumb stuff
Ah good. A dearly anticipated and well timed sermon from the Temple of Teardown. Saturday night company.
TWO TWELVES 😂
TAPE YOUR SOCKET ON A LITTLE.
Really appreciate the regular videos. Such a cathartic watch. Thank you.
"Rust circlets" Priceless!
Aw man, that was just surface rust on those bores. I bet you could have gotten the two low cylinders to pump up with some Lucas Therapy.
What a great engine. Yes I own one. It’s the strongest 240-rated-hp engine I’ve ever driven.
I've seen my fair share of older timing belt engines that run just fine even though they are sludged. Not even a tick noise. They have no variable valve timing, and the timing belt doesn't need oil whereas a chain would get destroyed.
Chains add metal fast which wears mains and rods
if you got that started in the original vehicle a big can of engine restore with an Italian tune-up would have probably put the compression back into spec. sometimes when an engine sits for awhile the rings get crappy at and running the engine will re seat them nicely.
I sense a vice grip fan?
So on many Toyota dohc engines that have the cams geared together, the one split gear is spring tensioned to keep backlash and gear noise down. The prevent them from unwinding (only unwinds one tooth) there is a threaded bolt hole running through the gear to lock it. Makes reinstalling them properly way easier.
This. Either you or your friend have to reset that scissor cam, thread a bolt in, reinstall cams, and remove the bolt.
My 2002 Toyota sequoia has 355,000 miles. Runs like a top. 2 things that suck on it. The AC compressors fail every like 90,000 and the ball joints are known to give out (I did have the front end drop on me)
Over all I Love this engine, couldn't be happier with its performance.
I had my driver side lbj snap on me at 189k it has 275k now and going strong. The ac runs. Fine never replaced the compressor knock on wood. I did change the radiator and the starter.
My man bounced a socket like a ball and had to give a slomo replay😂
Toyota (and Honda) do such a nice job engineering their engines not only to last but to be relatively easy to work on. Compare this to a similar vintage BMW V8 with 200K and all the issues they have (Nikasil anyone?), special tools needed, etc. Even making the coolant crossover pipes castings or steel instead of rubber hoses is a sign of engineering done right instead of shaving every penny out of the design. Despite not having poor maintenance with oil changes all the bearings, journals, and valve train are nearly like new in this engine. Contrast that with a poorly maintained Dodge V8 that spin bearings, drop valve seats, rocker arms fall off, etc. Or the Jeep 4 liter inline 6 that have about 10 PSI of oil pressure when they have even 100K on them (while the fake oil pressure gauge reads normal-they don’t even have an oil pressure sender just a switch).
This is straight up asmr for gear heads. Really appreciate the content homie!
My biggest gripe with Toyota: the 1MZ-FE (3.0L) and the 3MZ-FE (3.3L) are interference engines with timing belts. Other than that, I'm impressed with the reliability my Toyotas have given me, and how easy they have been to service or repair.
oh i DESPISED the 01 Avalon i had, that 3.0 was an oil burning, detonating, rear head gasket eating nightmare!!! 2 transmission replacements in 99k miles, and when the 3rd one failed at 126,836 miles, I donated that pig to the local fire department for a jaws of life practice vehicle, with the addendum that i be there to make the first cut, and much to my unexpected satisfaction, they also used it as a burn car as well, one of the best days of my life watching that thing get destroyed!!!!
Just for the record, Toyota(bless their hearts) from the factory install little coolant drain spouts in most, if not all of their modern engine blocks for draining the water jackets. The 1UR, 3UR, and this 2UZ all had them on both sides, they are wonderfully handy, not every engine tear down has to turn you into Miles Davis.
I found it on this block when I flipped it over. In the rust belt they’re usually pretty rusted shut but I’ll try it next time
I suppose I’m spoiled living North of the rust belt
8:31 I own a 1UZFE which is lot like this engine. I bought the car used as my daily driver in 2011 and didn't need to replace the starter until March of 2021. So, yeah, it's a bit of work to replace it, but if you only do it once every ten years......... the starter that failed was a Denso remanufactured unit.
Those bearings looked great considering the lack of care this engine received, as far as oil changes. To get this vehicle running well again, I'd put a few ounces of MMO in each cylinder, let it soak for a few days and I bet that would help clear the rings a lot.
Every time a new video pops up my day gets better
Have a 00 Tundra with the same engine and had to replace the engine with 270K miles. Dealer wanted almost 7k just to put a used engine with almost 200k on it. HA!!! Found one with supposedly less miles had it installed and learned the hard way that sometimes when something is too good to be true, it usually is. Wished the person who did the install would have seen your video on how to remove the wiring harness because they hacked in the the original and the truck hasn't ran quite right. Live and learn, Enjoyed the video, very informative.
On my second V8 2006 Tundra, first had 350K when sold. Bought a grandpa 2006 with 62K and hope it my last truck. Neither truck has had any repairs. I use oil analysis from BDL and new full timing belt kit every 90K. Nice tear down. Bob
Toyota has coolant cross over and doesn't have overheating issues. While competitors have coolant cross over in the front which useless and overheating problems.
At least it doesn't have the secondary air pump and valving in that one. Another pain to replace when it malfunctions
Starter isn’t too terrible to replace, just annoying. Thankfully they don’t go bad too often.
I've got the same engine on my truck and I will take your advice into consideration to keep it running as long as possible thanks for the video.
These engines dont go bad, i have 399,877 miles right now. I hope I catch that 400,000
well not as bad as I expected honestly. total salvageable motor.
I love my 2UZ LX 470. Ready to do the starter replacement - a rite of passage for all 2UZ owners. great video!
Just got my first 2uz (03 tree with 264k). Seems like the starter is an absolute nightmare with the secondary air injection motors that came in 05+.
Engine was like "Oooh, you touch my tralala" when you decided to remove water pump.
This made me chuckle
When I replaced the water pump and timing belt, it dumped sooo much coolant and my garage... my father was not happy!
I fully agree about trying to get away without rebuild. This rust will be taken off by rings and rings will be taken off by this rust
i got a 2uz. It's got 250k on it and the motor runs like the day i bought it. This engine needs to work. It seems like the harder and longer I run this truck the better it performs. The 2uz is not a performance engine but it is reliable af.
Edit: failure point=power adders
Failure point = heater t's
The starters rarely ever break. I have 3 with over 300k and have not had one fail.
Fun Fact: The lead engineer for the cooling system design on this engine was Richard Dicks.
License plate on the Beemer is hilarious
Amazing how good the bearings and main bearings look
Another reason why those engines are said to be able to last 1 million miles
Ahhhh! I sorely needed a teardown fix! Thanks for doing what you do! :D
You need a small magnate on an extendable rod to get those dropped sockets, reach down and get them back when you drop one.
I have a 2003 Sequoia and that same engine purs like a kitten..At 198,000 miles it does'nt leak or use a drop of oil and when i change it still looks like golden honey on the dip stick. has had a very good life with great service records. / I'm shooting for 300,000 K.
@7:46 get the Stealman Pro socket swivel extension set. It’s an 8 in extension with a swivel socket permanently attached. Never lose another socket
Great video buddy. You make them very interesting with your dialogue. See you on the next one. Big Al.
Nice e34. I have a 95 540 just like it. 270k and still on daily duty. They're great cars.
I’m delighted to see this tear down. I have two 05 sequoias, one with 265k and one with 210k. The engines have been great in both. Mine is used for extensive highway driving while the wife’s just goes to the grocery and short trips. Absolutely love the Sequoia. In both, while replacing valve cover gaskets, i noticed the discolored, glazed situation on the driver’s side of the engines,while the passenger sides were pretty much pristine. This was the situation on both vehicles. Wondering if anyone has insight as to why that would occur. The one with 265k was purchased with 60k on it and the wife’s was purchased with 190k. Since purchase, oil is changed religiously at 4K miles.
Love the channel and content
The PCV system.
“…..rust circlips…..”. OMG, laughed out loud at that one. Great one liner !! 👏👏👏
Survey Says - Replacing Tundra starter should not cost over $1000. Tundra starters last well up to 75000 miles but after that need for replacement dramatically increases. Its good to have a friend who owns a boneyard. . . I mean auto recycling facility. Thanks for the video.
Thanks! this is what I run in my cruiser and I love it. Great to see what inside of one with similar miles looks like. 👍
The one feeling when I do cars uploads a video you’ve been waiting for for the whole week
Don't forget 2003-2004 4Runners also had this one!
I’ll vouch for the starters! They’re a lot easier on these than the 1UZ, as the rear coolant crossover blocks your access to the starter bolts, as well as the EGR pipe (don’t believe 2UZ/3UZ had EGR) which the tube always breaks and is a bear to replace. Takes me about half the time to to a truck/ LS430 starter as compared to an LS400 starter
3uz fe has an egr
And the real treat at the end, standing in front of an E34 👌
Thanks for this one, ALWAYS excellent commentary and content, yeah I have and 03 4 runner with this motor, 184k and is still perfect, thanks again.