Short breakdown of a dynamic Climb at Central rock Framingham let me know if you think it’s a send! #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #climb #boulderinggym #climber
If you compare the orientation of the hips of the route setter and yours, for the drop knee he is oriented to the hold, yours are facing the wall. So you're pushing sideways, he is pushing towards the hold
what if the top hold is like a crack climb where you have to do an arm bar? Then your elbow would touch another hold and your hand would touch the top :P
@@jonaskarlsson5901Hmm, I think that's entire situation altogether! And still, at least the hand itself would properly match, not just the thumb. 😅 But definitely creative solution.
@@RustyClimbs True, but you're not using any other hold still. You're either in a stable position through the positioning of the rest of the body or holding on the finish hold with both hands.
@@RustyClimbsno you didn't. According to IFSC rules, a match is when the climber have both hands in controlled contact with the hold. Touching the hold with only one finger does not count as a match. A lot of people do cheat this rule, when they start and finish a rute, but in competition it doesn't count, with the one finger trick, you have to use the grib in some meaningful way to say you are in control.
@rasmusottokristensen2039 touchin with one finger does count tho all the way up to the Olympics! Controlled contact not controlled grip, 🤷🏼♂️both hands are in contact
@@RustyClimbs This is from IFSC Rulebook 20024: 8.17 A competitor ’s attempt will be: A) judged “Unsuccessful” if: 1) the competitor has made an Incorrect start; 2) the competitor has touched the safety matting after leaving the ground; 3) the Climbing Period has expired; 4) the competitor has made use of any Illegal Aid, and the relevant attempt terminated, and B) otherwise judged “Successful” where the competitor is in a Controlled position: 1) with both hands matched on the Top Hold; or 2) standing on top of the boulder, and in each case the boulder judge has raised a hand and announced “OK”. According to the IFSC rules, the top hold is considered matched only when both hands are in controlled contact with the hold. Having one hand fully on the hold and just one finger from the other hand touching does not qualify as a valid match. Both hands must be securely and stably grasping the top hold to meet the criteria for a match.
If you compare the orientation of the hips of the route setter and yours, for the drop knee he is oriented to the hold, yours are facing the wall. So you're pushing sideways, he is pushing towards the hold
I think youre right on this but itll be gone by the time i head back to this gym! So im taking the send according to ifsc rules 😂
yes
Swag we are counting it!
If you are satisfied then who cares...personally i would tick it but also try the intended till it goes cause it is exposing a weakness.
I think the point of the top is to not use any other hold when touching the finish top and being in a stable position. 😅
what if the top hold is like a crack climb where you have to do an arm bar? Then your elbow would touch another hold and your hand would touch the top :P
@@jonaskarlsson5901Hmm, I think that's entire situation altogether!
And still, at least the hand itself would properly match, not just the thumb. 😅 But definitely creative solution.
What about those super reachy finishes wherevu only get the finger tips on both hands to touch 🧐
@@RustyClimbs True, but you're not using any other hold still. You're either in a stable position through the positioning of the rest of the body or holding on the finish hold with both hands.
I have no clue!
Im right there either ya tbf
you have to match on the top hold, and show you can control that position. So it does not count. But @Galactyn just told you have to do it :)
I technically did match the top hold by ifsc rules 🤪
It does count
@@RustyClimbsno you didn't. According to IFSC rules, a match is when the climber have both hands in controlled contact with the hold. Touching the hold with only one finger does not count as a match. A lot of people do cheat this rule, when they start and finish a rute, but in competition it doesn't count, with the one finger trick, you have to use the grib in some meaningful way to say you are in control.
@rasmusottokristensen2039 touchin with one finger does count tho all the way up to the Olympics! Controlled contact not controlled grip, 🤷🏼♂️both hands are in contact
@@RustyClimbs This is from IFSC Rulebook 20024:
8.17 A competitor ’s attempt will be:
A) judged “Unsuccessful” if:
1) the competitor has made an Incorrect start;
2) the competitor has touched the safety matting after leaving the ground;
3) the Climbing Period has expired;
4) the competitor has made use of any Illegal Aid,
and the relevant attempt terminated, and
B) otherwise judged “Successful” where the competitor is in a Controlled position:
1) with both hands matched on the Top Hold; or
2) standing on top of the boulder,
and in each case the boulder judge has raised a hand and announced “OK”.
According to the IFSC rules, the top hold is considered matched only when both hands are in controlled contact with the hold. Having one hand fully on the hold and just one finger from the other hand touching does not qualify as a valid match. Both hands must be securely and stably grasping the top hold to meet the criteria for a match.