Stop Plateauing By Fixing These Common Mistakes (V4-5)
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- Опубликовано: 21 май 2024
- WIN a YEAR SUPPLY of MagDust Chalk from Rúngne
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I think this is one of our most insightful and helpful videos we've published - whilst I was filming and editing this I realised just how many golden nuggets of advise Louis was handing out during this session.
We're approaching 100K subs, and according to our analytics the majority of people who watch our videos aren't subscribed to the channel - we would appreciate it massively if you'd hit that sub button. Not only to help us reach a major milestone, but doing so really helps us to make more and higher quality videos. Thank you!
Team:
Louis Parkinson - / captaincutloose
Sam Douglas-Jones - / samdj_
Thanks to Fin for helping us out! Find his IG here: / dont.chalk.to.me
Filmed at HarroWall Climbing Centre in London, U.K.
00:00 Intro
00:43 A Crucial Tip When It Comes To Footwork and Precision
03:30 Win A Year's Supply of MagDust
04:23 Toehooking Masterclass
08:23 How To Break Down Dynamic Movement
15:35 A Common Mistake When Rocking Over
20:13 How To Tackle More Powerful Boulders
24:45 Outro
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Развлечения
WIN a YEAR SUPPLY of MagDust Chalk from Rúngne
Enter Here ▶︎ rungne.info/catalyst
Finally, there's a better chance to see Louis and Magnus climbing together and I'm excited for when that happens!
didnt get that but somehow won 20 bags of chalk and t shirt omg
@@davidshearan2377share the code 😅
Somehow ended up spinning the wheel twice, they looked slightly different, but the code doesn’t seem to work. Was so looking forward to some free MagDust.
The code is valid with any purchase ☺️
most of these tips were so obvious to me while watching, i was constantly mumbling to myself "yeah duuh", but immediately realized that these are the exact mistakes i constantly make! (i climb v4-5) Thank you very much for this video - the illustration with a climber that is relatable in skill & grade, and the dissections of each move afterwards were just perfect. Glad I am subscribed
I think a big difference between climbing along and actual training (especially with a coach) is the intent to
a) find out what you are actually doing. At least I don't have seven pairs of eyes all over my body...
b) have a clear (verbalized) idea of what you are trying to do or improve on.
I have often found myself progressing well when I was in a good learning mindset with little distraction and the will to focus on the individual moves. Sometimes I am just in the mood of: let me check this out a little deeper. Think about the individual steps. Think about the advise that I remember. See how the positions feel like. Try to make it feel right / easy. It is not rocket science, but without focus it is not training. (Climbing for fun is also fine, so no harm no foul!)
@@nilsp9426 thanks for sharing these insights, especially regarding the "good learning mindset". I think I know what you mean - I had one day like that, when the gym was quiet, and I had full focus on the problem ahead of me, with each individual move already playing ahead in my head. was a perfect day. I hope to reach that state more often.
@@ndmtzn If you try different methods and positions in the moves, you often look like a bad climber, but you have to overcome that. You learn not from sending a boulder problem, you LEARN FROM FAILING, that is VERY IMPORTANT to know!
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I’ve learnt a lot thank
This is also why recording yourself is a great tool, but you need to actually go back and watch it critically. It's normally much harder to notice technique issues while you're climbing.
My key take-away from the video is that to progress further I need to think more about moving between body positions instead of moving between holds. Thinking of the holds as the steps is such a natural beginner mindset, but at some point it just stops working. Grabbed the hold, fell down, didn't progress to the new comfortable body position.
Yes! This is such a game changer
These are all great. but the best tip I ever got from watching Louis, was for stepping on to bad footholds. It was the "just concentrate on taking the weight off the other foot, rather than trying to weight the bad foot". It completely changed slabs for me.
Which videos is that ?
@@gt1156It's in many of his videos, especially regarding scary or committing moves. But you don't need any more information than "just concentrate on taking the weight off the other foot". Whenever you are making a big scary move and you can't get the reach you need, think about if you are scared to take off your trailing foot. Focusing on doing that deliberately rather than unconsciously letting it happen will give you much more commitment and reach.
@@gt1156 it was this one... Around the 9.50 mark ruclips.net/video/MJio6EZ6ATU/видео.htmlsi=YWKj_fvpED8t9TN6
I love how Louis shapes movements and breaks them down into little steps to make them doable, so that at the end the entire movement actually is achievable. Nice work Louis! 👍
I can't get enough of these kind of video's. Exactly what I need: people on my level being coached by the best! Thanks Fin and Louis! (Key take away: do your footplacement drills! I need to hear this every video, haha).
Louis, you are the reason for my quick progression. I watch your training videos religiously. I've been climbing since mid November. I'm currently flashing up to 5c and can do most 6a-6b after a few tries. My friends often comment that I've progressed very quickly and I always point them to your channel. You've helped me so much, Thank you!
It also depends on your strength.... you cannot build good finger strength in such a short time. I guess you are a light weight climber.
A friend has a BMI of 17. He also progressed very quick, but in the more powerful problems he is a bit more struggling.
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as a climber currently plateaued at v5, i'm excited to learn from this video!
Let us know your key takeaways!
Its all so technical, everything has to be really dialled in. Love it.
Hmm, I am also around the V4 peak. Something I really struggle with as a taller, heavier climber is moves where my box gets compressed a lot, forcing my center of gravity further from the wall. Those type of boulders simply feel impossible for me, with no clue how to fix it.
THANK YOU FIN, Louie & Catalyst climbing for these amazing coaching videos
Absolutely loved this...Louis' coaching style is brilliant. I'm a teacher and so much of what he does is in line with educational theory - in fact I've used clips to show student teachers what to do!
Really love this video! Part coaching, part movement comparison, all helpful. Thanks!
Another really useful video. Louis explains body position so well
Very instructive ... I have all of those issues/technical limitations so this really resonates with me.
Thanks Louis!
A really fantastic lesson, I really rooted for Fin, thanks!
Amazing insights into some very specific techniques...this channel always delivers!
Good tip for deliberate footwork: pick some beginner climbs (v0 to v2) on slab-to-certical walls, and climb them without raising your hands above your shoulders (unless absolutely unavoidable). You'll have little choice but to focus on bringing your feet up and getting max value out of foot placement and orientation.
Very helpful video - great job Fin! I’d have similar issues with these climbs, so your efforts were great examples for me. Very helpful advice Louie.
Thank you so much. You are such a brilliant teacher and this made such an impact on my climbing!!
Awesome video! Louis your advices are great and well explained and Fin thank you for doing this, it was so good to see you taking in the advices and then improving!
So useful! Thank you, Louis!
These coaching videos in general are by my favorite part of your account! It’s been incredibly helpful in my climbing. The most helpful parts for me are breaking down dynamic moves and the mindset work - especially with other female climbers!
Thanks for the video. I love this kind of series. I mean, all your videos are great, but this kind of video I get the most for my next climbing training as a beginner
Very helpful! I love these coaching videos at the intermediate level.
Im always suprised how good you can figure out problems and how to solve them. Your Videos help me so much to improve my boulder skills. I hope to see more of your viedos, because I enjoyed seeing every one of it so far!
My boy Finlay 👊🏻💥 toe catch was sick, now you have to teach me how to do them 😂
More of this! So helpful.
Very clear explanations! Loved it
I'm usually sceptical about climbing tips videos, but the format of coaching combined with/turned into general tips makes it very watchable, and makes it easier to pick up the lessons as well!
The way you demonstrated how to learn a dyno sequence was really cool. I've been trying some other tips like using extra (off route) holds to make the move easier, but I feel like they don't always apply so well for a dynamic sequence.
Fin's handle is fantastic!
And the tips are definitively going to be useful, I think 😀
So I am at the point of playing on v4 and got a few now, this video really hit home for me as I have 3 projects that I am currently failing on with very similar movements. Tomorrow can’t come fast enough as this really got my wheels turning on what I need to correct. In particular the breaking down a move to just touching the hold then committing a little more each try and learning from each attempt. I typically just go it vs just upping the commitment a little more each try. I really feel that might help my mindset vs seeing it a failure every time.
Great tips, Louis. My son was just saying to me the other day to break down the moves, get the positon right, and concentrate on each move as it comes.
Really first-class coaching.
Absolutely awesome! Great work and definitely take some tips from this ❤
i love all the videos you guys put out i would love to see a video talking more on advanced type of climbing like how to think with more intention but also how to process each small stepping stones if that would be at all possible thank you guys again for the wonderful videos!!
Really good work from Fin! 💪💪
Fully rocking over would've saved me like 15 tries yesterday. I even thought of this channel when I did it the right way. Nice video as always.
Pretty much the ideal video for me - I've tried that V5 dyno loads since they've put it up, without any success - Definitely going to work on what's said around it - The other two I haven't, but I'll give them a go based on what was said and see how I get on! Cheers for making this ( especially at an LCC gym!)
Great video ! Thank you to both of you guys !
Great tips and analysis as usual!
Hey Louis! Great video. I've been climbing twice since our coaching session and I've been bashing out some difficult climbs. Your words about mindset helped so much. 🤗🤗
So glad to hear it! Keep crushing
Great video! I love the idea of body position being the steps of a climb and not the holds themselves. Should help me a lot. I'm right at this 4-5 level!
Great video such a good coach!
Really helpful advice, thanks!
Great short lesson. The "standing up fully before attempting to grab" part is really helpful to me. I'm probably fumbling my sequences constantly, as I'm focusing only on the last steps. I logically need to build the foundation before I'm raising the walls. Also practice wise.
very good video, very well explained, thank you!
Thank you for this video :) I was just telling a friend lately when he was giving me advice on a dynamic climb, "wow this is a lot to think about". I'll try to remember that I don't have to think about everything at once from the start, and learn my dynos in stages instead :D
Thank you so much Louis, your instructional content is really motivating to me. Like, I could get back onto the wall right now and try really hard, even though I'm still resting up from my last session (so I won't).
One of my main learnings from these videos has been to be really mindful of what I'm doing during a climb: Why did I fall off and what do I need to do differently? You've really got me thinking about foot placement and hip positioning in particular and that has already helped me loads. Breaking down moves that I can try without comitting to a sequence that feels risky to me has also been hugely helpful for my confidence to commit to said sequence later on. Also occasionally skipping a move that I'm stuck on to see how the next holds/moves after that feel - motivationally really good.
Points I'm taking away from todays video:
- Overshooting and landing into the "toe"-hook - can't wait to have a go at that one
- Focus on first touch even more
- Try slowing down during dynamic movement to find balance
- Climb extra haaard!
Thank you for all the helpful videos! My climbing technique has made big improvements the last few months thanks to you!
Loooove to hear that!
@@CatalystClimbing i've always enjoyed dynamic moves, but that tip about not overthinking it and just letting your body naturally do the move is super helpful! also, toe hooks have always been tricky for me, so I'll be sure to use that tip in my next session
Yeah for sure! I love the tip of ‘imagine your body doing the move, and then clear your mind to execute’. Works a treat for tricky coordination dynos!
your exercises are great! i try to implement every now and then some of them and it feels so good if you feel how easy one or two things get after a while :) i have still a lot to learn and what should i say other than it's fun to do so :)
Thanks a lot for the video, great tips that will definitely be useful as I'm stuck at v5 too
Thanks for another great video! I have a specific problem I am trying to work on, but maybe I'm not the only one, and it's worth covering in the future.
I have problems with placing high feet, and even when I can, the tension is already so high that I have even more problems shifting my body over my leg and standing up. I know this kind of move is very common, and I practise on beginner boulders (I delete some holds and try to climb up). Also, I work on my flexibility, but there may be more exercises I can do, or maybe I try to execute these movements the wrong.
Anyway, thanks for the hard work, I already learned so much watching your videos.
Awesome stuff. I'd love to see a Louis and Magnus collab!
Thanks these videos are amazing!
Some people be watching this thinking these are V6/7 climbs because loads of gyms grade climbs far too high. Really good to see coaching on accurately graded climbs!
Can't have too many tips vids with Louis.
🗽As always, very well explained by Louis. 👍👍
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Most of this explains how much the core power in climbing is the main thing.
The steady of any movement is good only if you core strength can manage the movement.
Great video as well 🎉
I totally needed this. I have been struggling with body position with slopers and this is exactly the wisdom and encouragement I needed today. Thanks Louis, Fin, and all!
저는 영어 잘 못하는데도 원하는 포인트를 넘 쉽고 간단하게 설명해주시네요 😊
Idk if this is too obvious, but one thing that helped me fight plateauing is to climb a problem until it's clean, rather than until you top it. I used to fight my way up V4 and be like "doesn't matter, made it to the top" and move on to the next problem. Now I repeat a problem until I feel that I've learned everything I can from it. Repeat it enough to where you could answer the question Louis asks @18:36 : "what if that hold was worse?" You should know the reasons behind each move well enough to answer that question. Thanks for the tips, as a casual climber breaking past V5 has been a struggle!
That was a great video, i hope my toe hook game will improve with all the good advices =)
THANKS AGAIN!
Great video!
You're such a great teacher. I would like to have some lessons from you
Key takeaway....foot placement drills....breaking down dynos...and instead of fighting with bad holds quickly get to the right angle to use the hold. Oh yes and finish the mantle before going to yhe next move. So to recap key takeaways ...basically everything you said. 😂 Thanks so much!
The dyno breakdown ESPECIALLY was helpful imo.
Lol I utterly failed at both of the first V3s in this video just last week. New tips to have another go at them next week!
Ah yes, the classic rock-over blunder. I fall in this trap oh so often.
Generally I'll muscle through a tough spot and look for the next move as quick as I can, but every time I follow this advice about 'completing' the rock-over before making the next move I'm more often successful and it's easier. It's also tough to remember when I'm struggling on some project I've been throwing myself at for a while.
Always, thanks for the great advice!
Hey Louis, as always: great video! I have a lot of climbs where I know I can probably do the moves, but am way too scared to even try them and it is very frustrating because I feel like that is what's holding me back on a lot of routes. I know I am not alone with this so I was wondering if you could cover overcoming fear in a video. :)
great teaching mate
was routing for fin during the vid!!!
I love this!!! Can we have another one with higher grades as well? That would be so great. But this was super fun to watch! And very useful :)
this is so good
I like that the climbs are a variety oh styles, all round climbing at the same grade
Finn seems to be a better climber than he realises! A real candidate for a total post plateau blast off!
Love these coaching videos. I'd kill for an in person session with you! Any chance of a followup vid for V6-7?
I'm working on V5/6 but some of these stuff helped me a lot. Thanks.
Do you also have a coaching session video with V6/7?
Yussss a video for my grade range
thats mad, I randomly met and was trying a boulder with Fin about a month ago at Boardroom in Wimbledon, London! Hey dude!
Great vid! Glad to know I'm not the only one plateaued at v4-5 😅
The toehook demonstration is gold, i guess its the same with bathangs? The weight should go closer to the ankle?
love the video! And which gym is this?
I reckon I'd climb a grade or two higher just having Louis there egging me on 😂
best climbing tescher. insane you're still at such a low level of subs. I'd love to learn from you dude. wonder how i could do it!
I really like these videos. At what grade would you say the main blocker is no longer technique, but strength?
very useful
i won the years supply of magdust + t shirt w my spin. thanks dude :)
I found on the heel hook coming closer to the ankle more holding power stronger grip
Louis recommends a book, I immediately pause to write down the title. I guess, I do trust that guy. 😅
Fin is my nephew what a top man so proud of him 😊
Hey Louis do you have a video on improving at overhang climbing its something my gf and I both struggle with and are looking for good content on it
Inner game of tennis is an awesome book for anyone doing anything.. :)
This is excellent stuff; however, very few gyms in the States have dynamic movement and still focus on static climbs. When I try significant dynamic movements, I feel a lot of judgment from everyone in the gym.
I watch a lot of your videos, and I find them to be very helpful. People seem impressed at my abilities, as weak as I feel they are, when the learn I have been climbing less than 6 months. Thank you for everything you do to help us. By the way, I'm 63 years young.
Amazing video Louis, thanks. Your opening of someone climbing for a few years who feels stuck at v4-5 was 🎯
One other piece though, I feel in addition to technique which can be coached and improved, the biggest thing I see between v5 vs v6 climbers is just loads more finger strength and loads better ability on system boards.
The first camera angle on the first problem made it look like he was stood on the floor and frenchied the first 2 moves 😂 how terrible a human being am I because I was shouting to my phone “HE DIDN’T DO IT” then it showed the other angle where he was stodd on a foot hold and I was like “ah…fair enough” 😂
"The way i was thinking about doing it completely went out the window" yep especially on the 45 always underestimate how much harder the angle can make it
Climbing for about a year, stuck around V4-V5 area; this is helpful. Would you recommend some careful and protocol based fingerboarding? I feel as though my strength and tension are there to progress.
Definitely check out Emil’s twice a day fingerboard protocol - great for keeping fingers healthy and building strength!
@@CatalystClimbing thanks brother, I'll take a look.
if i get the chance again to apply for a video coaching (you did a shoutout on instagram back then for this one) i would fly all the way from southern bavaria, germany to London just to get to climb with you