The enjoyment of all outdoor climbing exponentially increases the more regularly you can get out. Love the videos, keep getting out and you'll keep surprising yourself with the progress.
part of outdoor bouldering is crash pad management. if a climb doesn't do much traversing, has a clean landing zone, and is fairly vertical; then you can get away with 1 or 2 pads that stay put the whole time and you can do it "safely" on your own. But when a climb moves you away from your crash pads either because of a traverse or the slope of the climb, then you'll want more pads (one person can only carry so many) or an active spotter/pad manager. When you have a spotter moving pads as you progress through a climb, you can do a whole lot more with just 2 pads. Watching you climb at the first location made me a bit nervous for your safety when you had a few people there who could have been moving pads and spotting your falls. I saw how you learned from the comments on your first lead video, so I'm sure your next outdoor bouldering trip will be much safer. Enjoy those beautiful Glens!
ignoring grades and just enjoying bouldering is definitely something I am starting to do more. seeing kids on break throw their bodies at the wall and use any hold possible to top out is inspiring
Yeah I climb consistently "v8-v10" graded shit at the gym and some v4's outdoor have still gone unsent meanwhile I have sent a handful of v7's/v8's that felt way easier than the grade would suggest. Basically, grade means nothing but overall outdoor is harder.
Yeah v6 and beyond is pretty consistent but I believe that 0-5 is so inconsistent because it’s mostly technique, so if your 5’8” on a short compression problem that’s a lower grade, it’s gonna be easier than someone like me who’s 6’3” on the same climb, but v6 and beyond poses more problems that involve technique but also have an ability ceiling
This is true with older outdoor route climbing as well I find. At my relatively local popular crag, where most of the climbs were first sent in like the 60s or 70s, I "joke" that anything under a 5.10 can be arbitrarily any grade up to, and including, 5.10a.
doubly so because many of the people putting routes up or writing guidebooks are very strong climbers and don't really remember what easy grades feel like
I think it's also because the people who tend to make FAs outdoors are usually climbers with 10-15 years of experience, who don't realize how highly developed their forearms and other requisite muscles have become. They make an FA which is, in fact, a complete breeze for them, and grade it V1, not realizing that what is a breeze for them actually still requires a large degree of forearm muscle development. In my experience outdoor V0-2 are the most inconsistent outdoor grades when compared to gym grades.
If you have an issue with falling, having a constant spotter to catch your fall, and push you towards the best spot on the crash pad if you do fall is super helpful, it gives you so much more confidence on the rock
Climbing outdoors is a testament of how all the "other" things in climbing matter so much (breathing, not overgripping, planning, flow, a sense of body awareness, mental game, route reading, etc...) It's always fun to be humbled, and to face a challenge that shuts you down. Don't forget to get back up once you get humbled by a piece of rock.
I remember watching your first climbing video, giving you (a pretty good to my opinion) advice. Let me do it again today: you really lacked a spotter. It would have been more reassuring and safe for you. I freaked out twice in this video. Glad you have not hurt yourself. Keep going!
usally the climbs in a guide book are broken up based on the side of the boulder face so to the left would indicate the left side of that face. but if the guide book didnt specify north south east or west side it was poorly written
It's also possible he skipped the intro and just bee-lined to the area. I made that mistake when I first started. Usually, these guidebooks pretty much tell you how to decipher the language in the first chapter. Things like what the stars that mark certain climbs are, how to understand the topography (albeit this one didn't have one), and most importantly, the local rules/regulations/etiquette, which I highly recommend everyone read before going out to an area for the first time. Even if you just go to the shop and flip through that one section, it'll help a lot in the long run.
Dropped by Block 10 on a recent trip and had an absolute blast. Mentioned I'd heard about the gym from your video and the lady at the front desk said you'd been in earlier that morning. Sad to have missed you, but I had a great time. If I ever return to Dundee, I'll definitely be back. Thanks for introducing me to such a great gym!
Stanage Bouldering guide book makes a note on bouldering pads: “pads are encouraged but make the problems easier.” these old school blokes were rolling the dice on breaking ankles or bruised tailbones every day and have the gall to say “you know… you’re doing it soft, if you want a real challenge, don’t use pads”
I live in southern California and the crags around are notorious for being sandbagged and having a lot of highballs, you've got boulders taller than 20ft that some blokes climbed in the 70's and 80's with a small piece of carpet to rub the dirt off what we could hardly call climbing shoes. I have a massive amount of respect for the old heads that really did throw caution to the wind to climb some silly rocks.
Building good landings is for sure a science of its own and definitely worth learning (holes between pads are just great for breaking your ankles, you need to cover them). Having a good spotter who knows what they're doing is also a must especially with sketchy landings (redirecting your fall). Climbing over Fontainebleau's soft sandy ground is totally different from a steep, risky, sharp rock littered terrain of magic wood for example.
Hey Mike, just so you know for next time, in a "sit-start" you are supposed to sit (have your butt touch the ground) and then lift off the ground with the holds. Otherwise it's a low/crouch start. Good luck on your bouldering journey 😊
Makes me think of my first outdoor bouldering experience. About an hr of bush bashing to get to the boulder ? Not sure if its even the right one , end up making up some climbs . Everything feels extremely sketchy. End up with a few tick bites about 5min in total of "climbing" and some "send" footage so stupid on rewatch it nearly sends you into an existential crisis. It does get better haha
Possibly one of the best videos I've seen to explain outdoors. It's not that it's hard per day, just different and very stylistic. A crimpy V3 could feel easy for one person and hard another, the exact same with dynamic boulders
The biggest difference I find is in route reading. Reading boulders in a gym is easy because the holds are bright pink and you already know what each hold feels like. Outside gives you no such luxury so it just takes time to learn a climb
For me when I was getting started bouldering on real rock, it helped going with someone who had climbed the area for a long time. He knew the area like the back of his hand and it was basically like getting a guided tour; no confusion about what was considered “on” or “off” on a problem. Certain areas and rock types are a better transition from the gym as well
There are some areas around me that are exceptionally clear - 200m long cliff face with obvious shelves and pockets, and others where I’ve gone 5+ times to areas with over 300 documented routes only to find a dozen low quality climbs. Went to Skyline Albert yesterday and found probably 25 new projects, while Big Choss has given me very little to return for, despite having like 8 pages in the guidebook. Feels pretty obvious that I’m missing something there.
Those landings do look rather uncomfortable for a landing zone. Definitely make sure you have a spotter for stuff like that, their job isn’t even to break your fall, but to secure your head and spine in an uncontrolled fall. That does a lot for your confidence as well, especially for sketchy landing. Also: you should really try and plan a trip to Fontainebleau at some point. It is really uncomparable to anything you else you might visit for bouldering. Not only is it a beautiful forest, it also unmatched in the density, quantity and quality of boulders. That feeling of driving to Fontainebleau for the first time and seeing some sandstone boulders in the forest out of your windows is amazing.
At the time i tried outdoor bouldering for the first time i climbed V6 moonbard benchmarks and supposedly harder stuff at the gym. I was humbled on my first sesh on rocks to a V4/V5 climber. After a couple of sessions i got used to the unique challenges and climbed V7. I am confident you will have a similar experience 😄
The no hands mantle V6 was my problem at ley quarry called "Those Hips Don't Ley" i have a video of the FA on my Insta. Brutally on the hips even with mikes variation! So cool to see it on the channel man 👍
I think you would have a good time travelling to a bouldering destination. climbing obscure local problems is great with good knowledge and lots of good communication within the community, but not the best way to intro yourself. Jump across the pond and visit Fontainbleau!
I've bouldered outdoors a few times now. Never from a guide, simply looking at rocks/walls and making my own ways up. It's more fun that way. Pretty cool that you came to the same conclusion
in regards to a comment early in the video, about suffering during an activity, but eventually deciding its fun, that's what is known as "Type 2 Fun", i.e. suffering in the moment, thinking its fun after youve done it (with type 1 fun being fun in the moment, fun in retrospect)
15:36 I have been bouldering outside for years. V3 is always something to be proud of. And in the gym its a warm up. The grades just have different meanings outside.
We went outdoor bouldering for the first time a few months ago and had the exact same issue trying to make sense of the guidebook... we just ended up looking for rocks that looked climbable and making up our own problems. We were also incredibly humbled by the grades
"Risk makes the problem feel harder" - very true and I think the main reason why people perceive outdoor bouldering to be harder: you can never fully focus on the climb itself and are always managing risk
>ignores guidebook >climbs whatever he wants with no information >doesn't care about the grade or the climb >climbs in extreme weather (rain and wind) I had my doubts but he actually has the makings of a perfect outdoor climber
So when i was setting something we had to think about is will someone going to the gym for the first time enjoy it if it was really as hard as outside. probably not so you need to stretch the lower grades downwards that way people who really are very new can get up the wall sometimes. but you also dont wanna just make the range of v0s massive so everting gets shifted. and slowly gets closer to matching their outdoor counterparts as the grades get higher.
The lesson to just try stuff that looks fun to try is a fantastic one! A lot of people I climb with get stuck on trying a boulder or a route just because it's the right grade even if it's not a great climb. If you ever end up taking a trip to Fontainbleau I'd recommend just ignoring the guidebook and putting your mat below whatever you find most inspiring. I've done some fantastic easy and hard climbs by exploring in this way.
Tried bouldering outside for the first time a couple weeks ago as well, and got equally humbled. Usually climb at 6A+ to 6B+ inside, but outside the hardest I managed was like a 5+. Great video!
Great video, Mike. I only discovered you through your videos with the Wide Boyz, but I love this channel - as someone who's only one year into my own climbing journey, your content is so relatable. Also, fantastic editing, filming and general storytelling. You have a real knack for narrative. Keep up the good work, buddy! 👏🏻
The main factor in the difference between indoor and outdoor grading is that outdoors grades are a consensus opinion of many (normally) experienced climbers, wheras indoor grades are given by a buisness whose purpose is to bring in money, and will grade boulders to make people feel better about themselves/stronger in the hopes that they will come back and pay more money. Hence they tend to artificially deflate the difficulty relative to outdoor boulders (where nobody normally has any incentive to misgrade them). I think the other large factor is that commercial climbing gyms are trending towards using much bigger footholds, and if people never learn to climb on small footholds then they will struggle a lot more if they transition to climbing outside.
Also flashing is much more difficult outdoors because even if a problem is physically within your ability, you still need to work out where the holds are. At the lower grades, indoors, reading the route is pretty self explanatory (move to the next red hold, etc). Outdoors anything can be a hold, but only the easiest sequence is graded.
I think you're probably about this - especially with the bigger chain walls. It's perhaps different at some of the old skool walls - my local gym is the Foundry in Sheffield, one of the oldest in the country (it's also a CIC and run by members rather than 100% for-profit). I don't think the grading is as soft there as it is in newer places (it does vary, of course, depending on the setter and the style). I haven't done much climbing outdoors yet - I've been climbing a year, and my only outdoor trip so far was a morning of sport climbing on Peak District limestone. But one thing I noticed was that I didn't find the footholds as bad as everyone was telling me they were, and I think that's partly down to climbing on the Wave and Moon Wall at the Foundry - you get more accustomed to thinking of teeny features as 'good' footholds if you've got a wall that mimics natural rock a bit. It's also down to the fact I've really had to work at my footwork because I'm a T-Rex with a crap ape index, minimal upper body strength and crappy tendons (I have joint hypermobility). I'm fully prepared to be schooled once I get on some outdoor boulders though! 😅 I have no doubt they'll feel WAY harder than indoors.
Hey Mike, i met you a couple of times in Scotland and have since moved to Australia. I got myself an Organic pad, actually, and have gotten involved a bit with the local bouldering community (due to the lack of sport climbing or good indoor climbing gyms in far north Queensland). I'm new to outdoor bouldering too and can confirm, bouldering grades are WAY harder outdoors. 😮
I think wolfcrag its most accessible to beginner outdoor boulders in Scotland. Bomber landings, and an absolute plethora of options and room for creativity. Stoled to see you at my local crag
You just gained the most impactful part of outdoor climbing though. A gratefulness for the smallest and grossest indoor climbing feet holds because they will never be close to the nonexistent foot holds on outdoor climbs
My dude, your climbing videos have become soooo enjoyable. Content, editing, personality. Everything on point. I genuinely enjoyed every vid on this channel 🎉
13:47 on the contrary. Grades are the best way to track progress. But yes, grades don't matter, except for knowing whether to get on something or not. If you're struggling doing a 6c there's no actual point in trying 7a, because the grades are exponential, so it most likely will be twice as hard. And the "don't matter" part, is that you just have to take something that's either at or above your limit and fight the good fight on it, by looking at a route graded around what your limit is.
I actually disagree with trying the harder grades. There have been many times that, for whatever reason, I've done the harder grade but couldn't get the lower one! Thanks for watching 💪
@@MikeBoydClimbs That's just bad grades. If they're decently often climbed, due to the fact climbing grades are exponential you should never be able to get a higher grade but not get the lower one.
@@RockClimberAlex I'd also disagree, grades are HUGELY subjective, differ from crag to crag and boulder to boulder. Especially in the lower end (up to v6 maybe? Which is firmly where I am). They're not bad grades, they're subjective grades, they're historic grades, they're dependent upon height, or being better at certain types of climb. There are some HORRENDOUS V1s out there, which I've struggled to tick, yet there are a number of V4s I've flashed. I know I'm stronger at steep stuff and weaker at slabs (dire footwork) I agree grades are useful as an indicator - I wouldn't visit a crag that had one v1 and 20 v8s - I'd know there's not enough for me there but I've ticked a fair few climbs outside of what I'd consider my max grade range because they suit me. Or maybe they're just soft.
@@mrgrinch835134 This, 100%. Especially the difference at every crag, here in Vic, Australia, a v7 at Macedon is very different to a V7 at Grampians. Also, grades aren't exponential. One grade up is not double the difficulty/effort, that's ridiculous
Inspirational stuff! The scariness kf outdoor bouldering has put me off so far but this makes me want to give it a go. Indoor has the convenience factor too, which is hard to beat
The fun part is also seeing your progression, like you can climb the same rock for years and still make progress, and its just permanently there, and they are everywhere. its basically infinite :D you never get the same fatigue as in the Gym imo, like there is always something new you can do when it comes to climbing. youre not just lifting something in a monotone fashion
Every time I visit a new climbing area its pretty much a given the first day will involve at least several hours of being lost looking for a specific route or problem. It's a pretty magical experience. Once you know where everything is, there's less to discover and you have to put on the try-hard pants.
Man, I twisted my ankle in almost a 90* angle when I was bouldering inside, just landed in the “perfect” way right in the middle between where the crash pads came together. I still feel it ache after 8ish years when I walk too much. I don’t think I will be bouldering outside anytime soon.
9:35 It's better to use some spotting when you have a wall behind... Even if it doesn't seem too close - a fall from a slabby boulder could throw you far enough.
Great to see you finally getting outdoors, but please please wear a helmet. I know it's seen as ridiculously uncool, but I know a lot of boulderers who have got hurt hitting their head on landings. The better the climber the safer they usually are, they're less likely to fall in an uncontrolled manner, but for us amateurs I consider a helmet to be essential equipment.
I boulder V11/8A outdoors and this guy gets a bloody Organic sponsorship! 😂 Good on ya though Mike, I’ve enjoyed your videos since before you got into climbing and been waiting for an outdoor bouldering video 💪. Hit me up if you ever fancy some Peak District bouldering!
It's kinda crazy how V11 isn't hard anymore lol, when I started many years ago V11 was mythical and would get you sponsored but these days there's like 15 V11 climbers in my gym each evening. Just wild how the standard has increased
That guidebook is a nightmare. I've found a lot of Scottish bouldering crags are really poorly covered by photo topos. Spend a disproportionate amount of time watching vids of the problems everywhere to know what to climb. Lednock is lush!
Love this. I've been getting gradually better indoors and I'm really excited to go out with an experienced companion some time and try my hand at getting absolutely humbled :D
Mike, you improved a lot since you started out! If you want to improve even more I recommend working on your flexibility and precise and slow movement especially on smaller footholds. I think this outdoor video really showed where you have space to improve.
I feel like there's a big difference in lower grades and thats due to the history of outdoor climbing, it's been a hobby for people who already know how to climb and have good level of finger strength. That's why the grades feel hard for newer climbers because they start to venture outside after one year of bouldering etc (and that's only a good thing!). The grade gap should even out once you get to 7a-7a+ (v6-v7). So I would say if you can climb over 7a+ inside but can't send a 7a outside, your gym is soft.
You should get more and bigger pads, those that you used are indeed scary. Also if you have rocks under them, a spotter would guide a potential fall away from them.
I feel like vertical/slab climbs outdoor can be harder than vertical/slab climbs indoor. But overhanging routes outdoors are roughly the same/easier when it comes to grades. I've sent an outdoor V6 but I have yet to do an indoor V6, and it was basically a roof with a cruxy headwall move to a top out.
It helps a lot if you have an assist at the ground that helps you fall right and adjust pads if you don't have many. Outdoors... you need to learn to read the boulders first, it's just different. That V5 no handholds looks about right, maybe you're just not good a doing the balance mantle thing. It's very good feet and no overhang.
Hah, no way, I thought the V3 traverse was fair for the grade. Whereas some of the other V3s I've tried have been absolutely nails, like each move is v4
12:35 "That's a really rare position in a gym". More like "when root settlers in a gym don't climb outdoors". It's a very usual thing to start low in the gym I go to, even on the V3 level. Nice video, overall. Entertaining.
It’s quite rare for the landing to be completely flat (unless you’re in Fontainebleau). The solution is usually just to bring more pads. When climbing with my friends we usually have 6-8 pads per problem (sometimes more if the landing is especially bad). This is of course unfortunate if you’re only starting out and you and your friends don’t have an endless amount of pads :D
Hoping to get some crashpads and experiment with outdoor bouldering for my first time too! Been awesome to watch you document your climbing, good stuff :D
@@MikeBoydClimbs That’s fantastic, looking forward to that video. Don’t get discouraged in Font, it can be a difficult transition for people coming from an indoor boulder gym or limestone crag. Some areas there may seem to have notoriously difficult lower graded circuit problems, particularly on slab or vertical terrain. Be prepared to put all your weight through your feet on seemingly non existent footholds. It takes time to get used to, my advice would be to spend at least a week in stead of just a weekend. Good luck and have fun!
I can totaly understand the fear of falling outdoors. I've tried some outdoor bouldering within the last couple of weeks and it is totally different to being indoors. I'm not going as risky as indoors😅
one thing to consider is that outdoor boulders have a much higher difficulty minimum than indoor boulders. a v0 outdoors is much harder than an indoor one because jug ladders just don’t exist outdooors.
This was a great opportunity for a collab! Maybe some guidance on how to use the pads and spotting and all that safety stuff!! How about Dave MacLeod??
I think you're right. One of the local instructors I know said "it's not harder; it's just different". For the easier grades, at least, sometimes (not always!) you have more options because you're not restricted to a set of coloured holds. I've not done much outdoor climbing at all yet - only one sport climbing sesh on limestone. But I actually found I was able to play to my strengths more outside. I found more opportunities to do things with my legs and hips (I'm a T-Rex!) and not feel frustrated because the route was set by a tall/long-armed person and I'm forced to dyno (a skill I'm working on, but I prefer precise, techy climbing!) for a hold that others can just reach up and grab. That said, that was only one outing, and it wasn't bouldering. But I think there's something in that idea. There's potentially more room for creativity and freedom of interpretation, but learning to 'read' the rock is almost an entirely new skill in itself and the risk factor and variability of conditions adds to perceptions of difficulty.
Hi Mike, have you tried soft shoes, which also typically come with with gripier rubber, like the scarpa veloce. Great for bouldering where there is lots of smearing. The Scarpa Vapors you have in this video are very stiff and have the less grippy vibram edge rubber.
To all the people who think spotters are important: Can you show me one video where the spotter actually made a difference? I feel like most of the time the spotter is standing on wobbly feet, not prepared to exert any kind of force.or standing in the wrong spot (usually too close) entirely. I think they might be able to prevent your head from hitting the ground (or rocks) but that could be greatly mitigated with a helmet as well.
I went outdoor for first time ever last weekend and got destroyed, I climb v6/7 indoor(very soft gym) and was terrified climbing something I could easily hold
Maybe if you'd had someone spotting you, which is probably recommended on page 7 in the book you didn't read, you'd have some more headspace to focus on the rock :). Great video! Thank you
It's the same for lead climbing outdoors, by the way, at least here in Austria. I climb about as much outside as i do inside. Indoors my on-sight level is roundabout 6b/6b+, outside i can mostly only onsight 6a's. A few days ago i was stood in front of an alleged 6b+, that starts okay, with relatively good holds and burly moves, but about half way up it turns into a ~10% overhanging slab. The decent holds turn into half-pad crimps with fuck all feet. Bit tough for a 6b+ in my opinion. I agree though, fuck the grades. It was a fun day climbing anyways.
outdoor climbs i think are easier its just the mental thing for me indoors i have 0 fear falling off the wall been climbing now for 2 and a half months and climbing about v5-v6 i couldnt imagine doing those grades outside though through sheer fear of breaking a bone XD
Bouldering is so scary. Been trad climbing for 2 years now and sport climbing for many more. But man... When falling with a rope you only hit the ground sometimes. Bouldering you hit the ground every god damn time.
Really well made video. Just subbed!! We have just started exploring and videoing outdoor bouldering more too and have gone twice in two different locations in the last month. They both seemed harder but the second place seemed a lot harder and I'm wondering how much of it was down to the a rare 23 degrees C bluebird day in Ireland. It was so hard to hold anything 😋
not understanding the guidebook is the first step to outdoor bouldering. you did it right.
😂
No first step is not buying any guide believeing you can make it with on line free material
Plus Boulder Scotland is the worst guidebook ever made
The enjoyment of all outdoor climbing exponentially increases the more regularly you can get out. Love the videos, keep getting out and you'll keep surprising yourself with the progress.
I'll need keep going with it then 💪
part of outdoor bouldering is crash pad management. if a climb doesn't do much traversing, has a clean landing zone, and is fairly vertical; then you can get away with 1 or 2 pads that stay put the whole time and you can do it "safely" on your own. But when a climb moves you away from your crash pads either because of a traverse or the slope of the climb, then you'll want more pads (one person can only carry so many) or an active spotter/pad manager. When you have a spotter moving pads as you progress through a climb, you can do a whole lot more with just 2 pads.
Watching you climb at the first location made me a bit nervous for your safety when you had a few people there who could have been moving pads and spotting your falls. I saw how you learned from the comments on your first lead video, so I'm sure your next outdoor bouldering trip will be much safer. Enjoy those beautiful Glens!
ignoring grades and just enjoying bouldering is definitely something I am starting to do more. seeing kids on break throw their bodies at the wall and use any hold possible to top out is inspiring
I think on the lower end of boulders there's a ton of sandbagging because obscure boulders never get regraded.
Yeah I climb consistently "v8-v10" graded shit at the gym and some v4's outdoor have still gone unsent meanwhile I have sent a handful of v7's/v8's that felt way easier than the grade would suggest. Basically, grade means nothing but overall outdoor is harder.
Yeah v6 and beyond is pretty consistent but I believe that 0-5 is so inconsistent because it’s mostly technique, so if your 5’8” on a short compression problem that’s a lower grade, it’s gonna be easier than someone like me who’s 6’3” on the same climb, but v6 and beyond poses more problems that involve technique but also have an ability ceiling
This is true with older outdoor route climbing as well I find. At my relatively local popular crag, where most of the climbs were first sent in like the 60s or 70s, I "joke" that anything under a 5.10 can be arbitrarily any grade up to, and including, 5.10a.
doubly so because many of the people putting routes up or writing guidebooks are very strong climbers and don't really remember what easy grades feel like
I think it's also because the people who tend to make FAs outdoors are usually climbers with 10-15 years of experience, who don't realize how highly developed their forearms and other requisite muscles have become. They make an FA which is, in fact, a complete breeze for them, and grade it V1, not realizing that what is a breeze for them actually still requires a large degree of forearm muscle development.
In my experience outdoor V0-2 are the most inconsistent outdoor grades when compared to gym grades.
If you have an issue with falling, having a constant spotter to catch your fall, and push you towards the best spot on the crash pad if you do fall is super helpful, it gives you so much more confidence on the rock
Climbing outdoors is a testament of how all the "other" things in climbing matter so much (breathing, not overgripping, planning, flow, a sense of body awareness, mental game, route reading, etc...) It's always fun to be humbled, and to face a challenge that shuts you down. Don't forget to get back up once you get humbled by a piece of rock.
I remember watching your first climbing video, giving you (a pretty good to my opinion) advice.
Let me do it again today: you really lacked a spotter. It would have been more reassuring and safe for you. I freaked out twice in this video. Glad you have not hurt yourself.
Keep going!
who writes "to the left"in this kind of context?! what are we supposed to get from it😂
everything
usally the climbs in a guide book are broken up based on the side of the boulder face so to the left would indicate the left side of that face. but if the guide book didnt specify north south east or west side it was poorly written
It's also possible he skipped the intro and just bee-lined to the area. I made that mistake when I first started. Usually, these guidebooks pretty much tell you how to decipher the language in the first chapter. Things like what the stars that mark certain climbs are, how to understand the topography (albeit this one didn't have one), and most importantly, the local rules/regulations/etiquette, which I highly recommend everyone read before going out to an area for the first time. Even if you just go to the shop and flip through that one section, it'll help a lot in the long run.
Dropped by Block 10 on a recent trip and had an absolute blast. Mentioned I'd heard about the gym from your video and the lady at the front desk said you'd been in earlier that morning. Sad to have missed you, but I had a great time. If I ever return to Dundee, I'll definitely be back. Thanks for introducing me to such a great gym!
Tara actually told me you did. Sorry I missed you. thanks for checking out my local gym 💪
Stanage Bouldering guide book makes a note on bouldering pads: “pads are encouraged but make the problems easier.”
these old school blokes were rolling the dice on breaking ankles or bruised tailbones every day and have the gall to say “you know… you’re doing it soft, if you want a real challenge, don’t use pads”
I live in southern California and the crags around are notorious for being sandbagged and having a lot of highballs, you've got boulders taller than 20ft that some blokes climbed in the 70's and 80's with a small piece of carpet to rub the dirt off what we could hardly call climbing shoes. I have a massive amount of respect for the old heads that really did throw caution to the wind to climb some silly rocks.
Building good landings is for sure a science of its own and definitely worth learning (holes between pads are just great for breaking your ankles, you need to cover them). Having a good spotter who knows what they're doing is also a must especially with sketchy landings (redirecting your fall). Climbing over Fontainebleau's soft sandy ground is totally different from a steep, risky, sharp rock littered terrain of magic wood for example.
Hey Mike, just so you know for next time, in a "sit-start" you are supposed to sit (have your butt touch the ground) and then lift off the ground with the holds. Otherwise it's a low/crouch start. Good luck on your bouldering journey 😊
I actually didn't know that! Thanks for watching 💪
@@MikeBoydClimbs And if you can't sit your butt on the ground, just stack another pad underneath. It totally still counts...
Makes me think of my first outdoor bouldering experience. About an hr of bush bashing to get to the boulder ? Not sure if its even the right one , end up making up some climbs . Everything feels extremely sketchy. End up with a few tick bites about 5min in total of "climbing" and some "send" footage so stupid on rewatch it nearly sends you into an existential crisis.
It does get better haha
Damn... you described it so well even down to the tick bites...
This comment gave me a good giggle, you have a way with words
Possibly one of the best videos I've seen to explain outdoors. It's not that it's hard per day, just different and very stylistic. A crimpy V3 could feel easy for one person and hard another, the exact same with dynamic boulders
The biggest difference I find is in route reading. Reading boulders in a gym is easy because the holds are bright pink and you already know what each hold feels like. Outside gives you no such luxury so it just takes time to learn a climb
I absolutely love your climbing content! It’s awesome to be able to see how you make progress in rock climbing!
Glad you enjoy it! Thanks for the comment
For me when I was getting started bouldering on real rock, it helped going with someone who had climbed the area for a long time. He knew the area like the back of his hand and it was basically like getting a guided tour; no confusion about what was considered “on” or “off” on a problem. Certain areas and rock types are a better transition from the gym as well
There are some areas around me that are exceptionally clear - 200m long cliff face with obvious shelves and pockets, and others where I’ve gone 5+ times to areas with over 300 documented routes only to find a dozen low quality climbs.
Went to Skyline Albert yesterday and found probably 25 new projects, while Big Choss has given me very little to return for, despite having like 8 pages in the guidebook. Feels pretty obvious that I’m missing something there.
Those landings do look rather uncomfortable for a landing zone. Definitely make sure you have a spotter for stuff like that, their job isn’t even to break your fall, but to secure your head and spine in an uncontrolled fall. That does a lot for your confidence as well, especially for sketchy landing. Also: you should really try and plan a trip to Fontainebleau at some point. It is really uncomparable to anything you else you might visit for bouldering. Not only is it a beautiful forest, it also unmatched in the density, quantity and quality of boulders. That feeling of driving to Fontainebleau for the first time and seeing some sandstone boulders in the forest out of your windows is amazing.
fontainebleau is on the cards!
3:16 Exactly why i started my channel - i may not send them perfectly but gives the next person an idea!
You are making the exact type of climbing videos i want to see. It is also the types of videos i want to make myself some day :)
thanks for the kind words. I'm trying to make content that I would like to watch so it sounds like we are quite similar in that way 😊
Finally! I've been getting into outdoors too and have experienced nearly all of the same difficulties. It's such a relief knowing it's not just me.
Wide Boyz tee spotted. It's a great thing that Mike goes climbing all decked in high visibility orange clothes.
Absolutely need a spotter! This is scary stuff Mike
At the time i tried outdoor bouldering for the first time i climbed V6 moonbard benchmarks and supposedly harder stuff at the gym. I was humbled on my first sesh on rocks to a V4/V5 climber. After a couple of sessions i got used to the unique challenges and climbed V7. I am confident you will have a similar experience 😄
I've never tried the moonboard but I've heard it's mega hard too!
The no hands mantle V6 was my problem at ley quarry called "Those Hips Don't Ley" i have a video of the FA on my Insta. Brutally on the hips even with mikes variation! So cool to see it on the channel man 👍
Nice one. It's a really nice boulder. The V6 variation is insanely difficult!
I think you would have a good time travelling to a bouldering destination. climbing obscure local problems is great with good knowledge and lots of good communication within the community, but not the best way to intro yourself. Jump across the pond and visit Fontainbleau!
I dont think he can time travel
Glen Lednock is pretty good, at least below f7a
@@patrickfleming turns out font still exists, just double checked for you
@lliammcbean6819 I'm well aware, I spent the last week there.
@@patrickfleming took me a month but I just got the time travel joke…
I've bouldered outdoors a few times now. Never from a guide, simply looking at rocks/walls and making my own ways up. It's more fun that way. Pretty cool that you came to the same conclusion
You should do a font trip! Bonus is the boolder app is absolutely amazing, so easy to find stuff and full of topos and GPS
I'll check it out! Thanks for watching 💪
in regards to a comment early in the video, about suffering during an activity, but eventually deciding its fun, that's what is known as "Type 2 Fun", i.e. suffering in the moment, thinking its fun after youve done it (with type 1 fun being fun in the moment, fun in retrospect)
i think footwork is extremely important outside and can make a huge difference in how hard you find the boulders
15:36 I have been bouldering outside for years. V3 is always something to be proud of. And in the gym its a warm up. The grades just have different meanings outside.
We went outdoor bouldering for the first time a few months ago and had the exact same issue trying to make sense of the guidebook... we just ended up looking for rocks that looked climbable and making up our own problems. We were also incredibly humbled by the grades
"Risk makes the problem feel harder" - very true and I think the main reason why people perceive outdoor bouldering to be harder: you can never fully focus on the climb itself and are always managing risk
>ignores guidebook
>climbs whatever he wants with no information
>doesn't care about the grade or the climb
>climbs in extreme weather (rain and wind)
I had my doubts but he actually has the makings of a perfect outdoor climber
So when i was setting something we had to think about is will someone going to the gym for the first time enjoy it if it was really as hard as outside. probably not so you need to stretch the lower grades downwards that way people who really are very new can get up the wall sometimes. but you also dont wanna just make the range of v0s massive so everting gets shifted. and slowly gets closer to matching their outdoor counterparts as the grades get higher.
The lesson to just try stuff that looks fun to try is a fantastic one! A lot of people I climb with get stuck on trying a boulder or a route just because it's the right grade even if it's not a great climb. If you ever end up taking a trip to Fontainbleau I'd recommend just ignoring the guidebook and putting your mat below whatever you find most inspiring. I've done some fantastic easy and hard climbs by exploring in this way.
Tried bouldering outside for the first time a couple weeks ago as well, and got equally humbled. Usually climb at 6A+ to 6B+ inside, but outside the hardest I managed was like a 5+. Great video!
glad I'm not the only one!
Great video, Mike. I only discovered you through your videos with the Wide Boyz, but I love this channel - as someone who's only one year into my own climbing journey, your content is so relatable.
Also, fantastic editing, filming and general storytelling. You have a real knack for narrative. Keep up the good work, buddy! 👏🏻
thanks Anna, that really means a lot 😊
The main factor in the difference between indoor and outdoor grading is that outdoors grades are a consensus opinion of many (normally) experienced climbers, wheras indoor grades are given by a buisness whose purpose is to bring in money, and will grade boulders to make people feel better about themselves/stronger in the hopes that they will come back and pay more money. Hence they tend to artificially deflate the difficulty relative to outdoor boulders (where nobody normally has any incentive to misgrade them). I think the other large factor is that commercial climbing gyms are trending towards using much bigger footholds, and if people never learn to climb on small footholds then they will struggle a lot more if they transition to climbing outside.
Also flashing is much more difficult outdoors because even if a problem is physically within your ability, you still need to work out where the holds are. At the lower grades, indoors, reading the route is pretty self explanatory (move to the next red hold, etc). Outdoors anything can be a hold, but only the easiest sequence is graded.
I think you're probably about this - especially with the bigger chain walls. It's perhaps different at some of the old skool walls - my local gym is the Foundry in Sheffield, one of the oldest in the country (it's also a CIC and run by members rather than 100% for-profit). I don't think the grading is as soft there as it is in newer places (it does vary, of course, depending on the setter and the style).
I haven't done much climbing outdoors yet - I've been climbing a year, and my only outdoor trip so far was a morning of sport climbing on Peak District limestone. But one thing I noticed was that I didn't find the footholds as bad as everyone was telling me they were, and I think that's partly down to climbing on the Wave and Moon Wall at the Foundry - you get more accustomed to thinking of teeny features as 'good' footholds if you've got a wall that mimics natural rock a bit. It's also down to the fact I've really had to work at my footwork because I'm a T-Rex with a crap ape index, minimal upper body strength and crappy tendons (I have joint hypermobility).
I'm fully prepared to be schooled once I get on some outdoor boulders though! 😅 I have no doubt they'll feel WAY harder than indoors.
Hey Mike, i met you a couple of times in Scotland and have since moved to Australia. I got myself an Organic pad, actually, and have gotten involved a bit with the local bouldering community (due to the lack of sport climbing or good indoor climbing gyms in far north Queensland). I'm new to outdoor bouldering too and can confirm, bouldering grades are WAY harder outdoors. 😮
I think wolfcrag its most accessible to beginner outdoor boulders in Scotland. Bomber landings, and an absolute plethora of options and room for creativity. Stoled to see you at my local crag
You just gained the most impactful part of outdoor climbing though. A gratefulness for the smallest and grossest indoor climbing feet holds because they will never be close to the nonexistent foot holds on outdoor climbs
My dude, your climbing videos have become soooo enjoyable. Content, editing, personality. Everything on point. I genuinely enjoyed every vid on this channel 🎉
13:47 on the contrary. Grades are the best way to track progress. But yes, grades don't matter, except for knowing whether to get on something or not. If you're struggling doing a 6c there's no actual point in trying 7a, because the grades are exponential, so it most likely will be twice as hard. And the "don't matter" part, is that you just have to take something that's either at or above your limit and fight the good fight on it, by looking at a route graded around what your limit is.
I actually disagree with trying the harder grades. There have been many times that, for whatever reason, I've done the harder grade but couldn't get the lower one! Thanks for watching 💪
@@MikeBoydClimbs That's just bad grades. If they're decently often climbed, due to the fact climbing grades are exponential you should never be able to get a higher grade but not get the lower one.
@@RockClimberAlex I'd also disagree, grades are HUGELY subjective, differ from crag to crag and boulder to boulder. Especially in the lower end (up to v6 maybe? Which is firmly where I am).
They're not bad grades, they're subjective grades, they're historic grades, they're dependent upon height, or being better at certain types of climb. There are some HORRENDOUS V1s out there, which I've struggled to tick, yet there are a number of V4s I've flashed. I know I'm stronger at steep stuff and weaker at slabs (dire footwork)
I agree grades are useful as an indicator - I wouldn't visit a crag that had one v1 and 20 v8s - I'd know there's not enough for me there but I've ticked a fair few climbs outside of what I'd consider my max grade range because they suit me.
Or maybe they're just soft.
@@mrgrinch835134 This, 100%.
Especially the difference at every crag, here in Vic, Australia, a v7 at Macedon is very different to a V7 at Grampians.
Also, grades aren't exponential. One grade up is not double the difficulty/effort, that's ridiculous
Inspirational stuff! The scariness kf outdoor bouldering has put me off so far but this makes me want to give it a go. Indoor has the convenience factor too, which is hard to beat
Try to find a place that has flat landings to get started. Enjoy! (and thanks for watching)
The fun part is also seeing your progression, like you can climb the same rock for years and still make progress, and its just permanently there, and they are everywhere. its basically infinite :D you never get the same fatigue as in the Gym imo, like there is always something new you can do when it comes to climbing. youre not just lifting something in a monotone fashion
Every time I visit a new climbing area its pretty much a given the first day will involve at least several hours of being lost looking for a specific route or problem. It's a pretty magical experience. Once you know where everything is, there's less to discover and you have to put on the try-hard pants.
Nice video buddy. I appreciate that you have this climbing channel. It’s what got me subbed to your main channel actually
13:20: 'We all have egos here'
13:58: 'At the lower end - V5 and below'
Alright Mr V6...
Thats why you need to make friends to help carry in more pads! Will make it feel much better
Thank you for confirming i should stick with ropes. This looks like injury central for me. Looks fun but I know my place.
Man, I twisted my ankle in almost a 90* angle when I was bouldering inside, just landed in the “perfect” way right in the middle between where the crash pads came together. I still feel it ache after 8ish years when I walk too much. I don’t think I will be bouldering outside anytime soon.
9:35 It's better to use some spotting when you have a wall behind... Even if it doesn't seem too close - a fall from a slabby boulder could throw you far enough.
Great to see you finally getting outdoors, but please please wear a helmet. I know it's seen as ridiculously uncool, but I know a lot of boulderers who have got hurt hitting their head on landings. The better the climber the safer they usually are, they're less likely to fall in an uncontrolled manner, but for us amateurs I consider a helmet to be essential equipment.
Ugh I love that you’ve shared your entire journey. It’s like getting to experience my own climbing firsts again
I boulder V11/8A outdoors and this guy gets a bloody Organic sponsorship! 😂 Good on ya though Mike, I’ve enjoyed your videos since before you got into climbing and been waiting for an outdoor bouldering video 💪. Hit me up if you ever fancy some Peak District bouldering!
Maybe your one subscriber will buy hundreds of pads when you get sponsorship too 😅
It's kinda crazy how V11 isn't hard anymore lol, when I started many years ago V11 was mythical and would get you sponsored but these days there's like 15 V11 climbers in my gym each evening. Just wild how the standard has increased
That guidebook is a nightmare. I've found a lot of Scottish bouldering crags are really poorly covered by photo topos. Spend a disproportionate amount of time watching vids of the problems everywhere to know what to climb. Lednock is lush!
signed up for my first outdoor lead intro workshop in 2 weeks - I hold responsible for this
Love this. I've been getting gradually better indoors and I'm really excited to go out with an experienced companion some time and try my hand at getting absolutely humbled :D
IF you never started climbing, would you wear bright orange pants?
Mike, you improved a lot since you started out! If you want to improve even more I recommend working on your flexibility and precise and slow movement especially on smaller footholds. I think this outdoor video really showed where you have space to improve.
flexibility is definitely an issue! I need to improve that aspect. Thanks for watching 💪
I feel like there's a big difference in lower grades and thats due to the history of outdoor climbing, it's been a hobby for people who already know how to climb and have good level of finger strength. That's why the grades feel hard for newer climbers because they start to venture outside after one year of bouldering etc (and that's only a good thing!). The grade gap should even out once you get to 7a-7a+ (v6-v7). So I would say if you can climb over 7a+ inside but can't send a 7a outside, your gym is soft.
You should get more and bigger pads, those that you used are indeed scary. Also if you have rocks under them, a spotter would guide a potential fall away from them.
I feel like vertical/slab climbs outdoor can be harder than vertical/slab climbs indoor. But overhanging routes outdoors are roughly the same/easier when it comes to grades. I've sent an outdoor V6 but I have yet to do an indoor V6, and it was basically a roof with a cruxy headwall move to a top out.
5:00 sounds exactly right
It helps a lot if you have an assist at the ground that helps you fall right and adjust pads if you don't have many.
Outdoors... you need to learn to read the boulders first, it's just different.
That V5 no handholds looks about right, maybe you're just not good a doing the balance mantle thing. It's very good feet and no overhang.
Nice seeing Wolfcrag, been meaning to get back there since last year, fun crag with good variety at the low end
Hah, no way, I thought the V3 traverse was fair for the grade. Whereas some of the other V3s I've tried have been absolutely nails, like each move is v4
12:35 "That's a really rare position in a gym". More like "when root settlers in a gym don't climb outdoors". It's a very usual thing to start low in the gym I go to, even on the V3 level.
Nice video, overall. Entertaining.
Please get spotters, I like your content
It’s quite rare for the landing to be completely flat (unless you’re in Fontainebleau). The solution is usually just to bring more pads. When climbing with my friends we usually have 6-8 pads per problem (sometimes more if the landing is especially bad). This is of course unfortunate if you’re only starting out and you and your friends don’t have an endless amount of pads :D
Hoping to get some crashpads and experiment with outdoor bouldering for my first time too! Been awesome to watch you document your climbing, good stuff :D
enjoy! Thanks for watching 💪
Awesome video. When are you planning a trip to Fontainebleau next?
Very soon!
@@MikeBoydClimbs That’s fantastic, looking forward to that video. Don’t get discouraged in Font, it can be a difficult transition for people coming from an indoor boulder gym or limestone crag. Some areas there may seem to have notoriously difficult lower graded circuit problems, particularly on slab or vertical terrain. Be prepared to put all your weight through your feet on seemingly non existent footholds. It takes time to get used to, my advice would be to spend at least a week in stead of just a weekend. Good luck and have fun!
I can totaly understand the fear of falling outdoors.
I've tried some outdoor bouldering within the last couple of weeks and it is totally different to being indoors.
I'm not going as risky as indoors😅
Got to bring some spray paint next time, to colorgrade routes and mark the holds.
The names of the random boulder problems is half the fun! Please show them along with the grades next time.
one thing to consider is that outdoor boulders have a much higher difficulty minimum than indoor boulders. a v0 outdoors is much harder than an indoor one because jug ladders just don’t exist outdooors.
we need to start the scale at v-5
This was a great opportunity for a collab! Maybe some guidance on how to use the pads and spotting and all that safety stuff!! How about Dave MacLeod??
Dave’s the biggest grade sandbagger going 😅
OMG 8 MINS in and I just realised Mike is using a wideboyz shirt LETS GOOOO
If you go outside please don’t leave rubbish, brush off your chalk and don’t play loud music 😅 cheers…grades have too many variables so just have fun.
Its really based on your environment and skillset so we cant say anything for everyone with certainty
I think you're right. One of the local instructors I know said "it's not harder; it's just different".
For the easier grades, at least, sometimes (not always!) you have more options because you're not restricted to a set of coloured holds. I've not done much outdoor climbing at all yet - only one sport climbing sesh on limestone. But I actually found I was able to play to my strengths more outside. I found more opportunities to do things with my legs and hips (I'm a T-Rex!) and not feel frustrated because the route was set by a tall/long-armed person and I'm forced to dyno (a skill I'm working on, but I prefer precise, techy climbing!) for a hold that others can just reach up and grab.
That said, that was only one outing, and it wasn't bouldering. But I think there's something in that idea. There's potentially more room for creativity and freedom of interpretation, but learning to 'read' the rock is almost an entirely new skill in itself and the risk factor and variability of conditions adds to perceptions of difficulty.
Hi Mike, have you tried soft shoes, which also typically come with with gripier rubber, like the scarpa veloce. Great for bouldering where there is lots of smearing. The Scarpa Vapors you have in this video are very stiff and have the less grippy vibram edge rubber.
Nice to see places I've been in this video
I know this technically isn't climbing, but I do recommend trying out some hard "via ferrata" too.
I have the exact same shoe, tc pro. I notice that they're much better for outdoor. agree?
Mother Nature didnt assign grade tags to her beautiful sculptures, so why should we? Just enjoy, smile with friends, and never stop exploring
absolutely 💪
To all the people who think spotters are important: Can you show me one video where the spotter actually made a difference? I feel like most of the time the spotter is standing on wobbly feet, not prepared to exert any kind of force.or standing in the wrong spot (usually too close) entirely. I think they might be able to prevent your head from hitting the ground (or rocks) but that could be greatly mitigated with a helmet as well.
I went outdoor for first time ever last weekend and got destroyed, I climb v6/7 indoor(very soft gym) and was terrified climbing something I could easily hold
welcome to the club! Thanks for watching 💪
Maybe if you'd had someone spotting you, which is probably recommended on page 7 in the book you didn't read, you'd have some more headspace to focus on the rock :).
Great video! Thank you
It's the same for lead climbing outdoors, by the way, at least here in Austria. I climb about as much outside as i do inside. Indoors my on-sight level is roundabout 6b/6b+, outside i can mostly only onsight 6a's.
A few days ago i was stood in front of an alleged 6b+, that starts okay, with relatively good holds and burly moves, but about half way up it turns into a ~10% overhanging slab. The decent holds turn into half-pad crimps with fuck all feet. Bit tough for a 6b+ in my opinion.
I agree though, fuck the grades. It was a fun day climbing anyways.
sounds like a gnarly line! Thanks for watching 💪
If its a well known spot I'd suggest looking for send videos on RUclips. People like to post their sends.
outdoor climbs i think are easier its just the mental thing for me indoors i have 0 fear falling off the wall been climbing now for 2 and a half months and climbing about v5-v6 i couldnt imagine doing those grades outside though through sheer fear of breaking a bone XD
For me outdoors is hardwr until V7 and after than indoors becomes hard. Honestly, indoor V10-V11s are insane.
Yes, unless you are comparing to board grades, which are pretty similar to outdoor grades.
This is too funny. Camera man must have been laughing his ass off at this guy down climbing
Bouldering is so scary. Been trad climbing for 2 years now and sport climbing for many more. But man... When falling with a rope you only hit the ground sometimes. Bouldering you hit the ground every god damn time.
You need a spottter forctuat pointy rock
What is the brand of your orange pants ? (I like it) Thanks
Wild Country
(I received these for free, but I would recommend)
@@MikeBoydClimbs Thank you for the quick reply, I will buy one too :)
Thanks Mike, helps a lot
Really well made video. Just subbed!! We have just started exploring and videoing outdoor bouldering more too and have gone twice in two different locations in the last month. They both seemed harder but the second place seemed a lot harder and I'm wondering how much of it was down to the a rare 23 degrees C bluebird day in Ireland. It was so hard to hold anything 😋
thanks for subbing :) 23 degrees would be horrible conditions. Congrats for sticking with it!
Now try the buttermilks or Yosemite you’ll be doing V0- routes. It’s ridiculously sandbagged there