The Climbing Iceberg V0 → V7 Explained
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- In this video, I share the 4 fundamental keys that most amateur climbers don't know how to apply correctly. These insights have been crucial in my climbing journey, and I believe they can help you too.
Stay until the end for a special free resource to help you apply these concepts and improve your climbing skills.
Free Assessment: drive.google.com/file/d/1rRed...
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Timestamps:
0:00 - Limiting Reactant
3:20 - Surface
4:55 - Proof
6:40 - Big Mistake
7:10 - Common Mistakes
8:29 - Why you can't Apply Technique
10:40 - The Most Important Part
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Dave MacLeod's Video: • Is this the most commo...
Instagram: / crispycrimpsclimbing
Disclaimer: This video is for educational purposes only. Any information shared is based on personal experiences and research.
Song: Lotus Sky Dreams
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Hey guys sorry for the pale, expressionless face through out the video. I had food poisioning 2 days before I filmed this, I didnt want to keep on waiting to make the video so ended up just going with it. But if you are interested in a quick way to lose 5kg in 2 days I can certanly recomend eating fish in a dodgy place 😁
Came for climbing, stayed for diet tips!
@@rrrents Lol! Follow at your own peril
Can barely hold my own weight for 7 secs on a Beastmaker 20mm edge with both hands, climbing V6 and projecting V7. I think finger strength is definitely a weakness, but in the end I think footwork and flexibility is what truly holds me back. Very good video! I agree with all of your points throughout!
I'm the same way, I can hang on 20mm but my hands tremble. I used to be much stronger but have put off finger training for about 3 years, I would love to get back into it but with the starts I mentioned in this video
I feel like finger strength is my main weakness. I cannot hold myself on 20mm edge at all. Max 1-2 seconds if I am fully warmed up and have a perfect conditions. Although I only climb at around v4 (sometimes v5 on slab). Flexibility is definitely in the list there as well, however it is improving quite a lot. I started deliberately working on it after just a month of climbing and now it is not as bad as it used to be.
As long as you put in the time there is always results, thats the best way to keep on going
Thats really good though. I can hold my weight on a 20mm edge for about 4 sec with my right hand and only 1-2 sec with my left. Despite that im still climbing v7-v8 so i think u definitely got the finger strenght
@@henrikblomqvist720 of course it always depends on the boulder but I'm with you! Most people can do more than they think
Interesting take, and I can somehow relate to that. What I have been doing recently to mitigate that is to purposely try my hard projects when I am relatively fatigued. This way my intention is to learn and optimize the moves. This has helped me to keep progressing even if my strength levels might be above the grade.
Qué bueno encontrar un canal de un compatriota compartiendo conocimiento de este hermoso deporte (: Buenísimo el video, seguí metiendolé! Un Abrazo
Gracias Joaco! Voy a seguir dandole para adelante 😁
4:15 that heel hook made me laugh
Lol yeah, used to happen all the time 🤣
muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. escalo hace años pero mi unico propósito fue lograr el TOP. La filosofía de la escalada no me interesé nunca en estes años y por eso me quedé en el nivel V4. Eso se cambió hace 8 meses y pico y ahora puedo escalar V6-V7. hoy por ejemplo hice mis primeros dynos.
En tu video hablas exactamente sobre estas cosas que para mi significan la filosofía de la escalada. Gracias. Mi español es de nivel B1, espero que tu puedes entender mi mensaje. Un abrazo desde Hamburgo, Alex
Hola Alex! Tu español es muy bueno, si no me decias que tu nivel era B1 asumia que vivias en españa ya que la forma de hablar es un poco distinta a argentina. Yo estaba en la misma posicion que vos y creo que este cambio de mentalidad me ayudo mucho a desbloquear una nueva forma de ver el mundo. Que bueno que a vos tambien te haya resultado positivo, un abrazo desde Tokyo!
Nice video! Great to see your channel growing 💪
Thanks man! I'll keep on trying my best 😁
The Last one is crazy accurate and Important! Make sure to watch all the way!
Its tough to convey these concepts in a wholistic, calm not preachy way. You share it quite well well done Crispy crimps looking forward to more stuff from this channel
Thanks man! One of the reasons I learned all this stuff is by watching your highlight videos 🤣
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing haha
Another banger vid!
Thanks man! Trying my best, in a few weeks there's gonna be a string of incredible ones!
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I’m looking forward to it!
Nice video :D
Thanks Benji! The next one will be the warm up one, just like you wanted
Great video! Keep up the great work!
Thanks! I'll keep them coming 😁
climbing v7 with 140% bw so pretty spot on, for me personally it always feels like if i don't have a dedicated fingerboard routine in my plan i suffer from more injurys than with one. that's most likely due to the fact that i would go climbing instead 😂 and also a bigger climber so my fingers need some special love.
Great to see you are spot on for your grade! That means that with just some dedicated movement practice you can easily break into new grades, keep it up man 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing in my opinion consistency is key in climbing progression. but not "normal consistency" like climbing only v4. Rather progressivly overload consistency (in different aspects e.g. technique, power, (finger) strength) will make you break that plateau over time. unfortunately every time i felt like breaking into the v8&v9 range a injury happend but good news the v6-v7 range felt easier every time.
@@roman4692 Yeah I know what you mean my friend, I feel the same way. The good thing, as you say, is there's many ways to view progress. As long as something is moving forward you are always improving!
If you don't mind me asking how much do you weigh?
@@BiggieChungulus if you asking me: ~189cm/88kg
great vid :)
Glad you enjoyed it, trying my best to make it fun 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing really good information in an entertaining format! during my session today i thought about multiple topics from the vid
Thanks Collin, I'll keep them coming!
I can hang 200% body weight, I climb V9 and looks like I have the finger strength to climb V14-V15
I have found that finger strength is very rarely a limiting factor for me… that being said I still have not touched a hang board or campus board, just constantly working my technique with on the wall drills.
Damn, you're pretty strong my friend. I think there's a lot of people that naturally tend to go to a style maybe yours is pretty fingery and thats how you got so strong. What drills do you do?
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I primarily moonboard (2016 set). That’s probably the source of my finger strength gains. Within the past 2 years I’ve pretty much just been doing limit bouldering sessions 3 days a week. I used to do lots of flagging drills and lock-off or even campus work. Recently I’ve been finding a lacking of my endurance so I started doing 4x4’s on mid-grade boulders (for me that’s around V5).
You talked about reactions and what you need, so I was wondering if you had any tips for getting talker? Jk great video.
Lol! Thats for your comment ☺
Enjoy your videos so much!
Thank you! I will keep on trying hard to make more 😁
Great video ❤
Thanks!!
33% bw on 20mm with 3 pulley strains. BW on 12mm with 3 pulley strains and 2 more flexor strains. Taking time off now, but I was climbing V7s outside.
Don't think it's good to use inside grades since I can climb V8/9 in some gyms... I think most people who "can't hang BW" are using indoor grades because there is no way you are touching an outside crimpfest V5/6 lol
I get where you're coming from, I think outdoor styles depend a lot where you live. Where I live now is mainly really small edges which is what I find the hardest, but in other outdoor spots there's sloppers or pockets, or just bif moves of of sharper but bigger holds. I would love to sometime get the chance to travel and get to know more outdoor stuff since to be honest I havent done much
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Good point. I've only climbed in the northeast and one place on the west coast so I don't have too much experience. In the Northeast, It's almost entirely small crimps while out west (Berkeley, CA), it was bigger holds with bad feet and awkward moves
we want drills!! XD
Great video! thanks for the tips, it is definitely a much healthier and long term driven approach to climbing! Will take into consideration
I think you just hit the mark with your comment, once you change from short term to long term I think it allows you to improve a lot more. You can clearly see that small gains can accumulate and instead of just focusing on hitting the next project you can address other stuff that in the long run will make you a much better climber
I fully agree with everything you say in this video, 10/10
Thanks for your comment! Anything you would add to it?
So the problem with the grade v relative strength data is it doesn't factor weight.
Hey BiggieChungulus 🤣 It does! If you look at the Y axis it says Percentage Bodyweight
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingthats a ratio, it doesnt factor in the difference between a 100lbs person pulling 200lbs vs a 200lbs person pulling 250lbs.
@@BiggieChungulus isn't it based off of the % weight you can pull? Wouldn't that make it take weight into account?
I'm not great at maths so don't take my word for that last part, it just how I understand it. If it's wrong please correct me and explain so I learn 😁
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingwell it could explain why some people climb v11 at ~130% vs some people at ~220%. It would be safe to assume bigger people have less relative strength. Don't get me wrong, I believe climbing is a democraric sport and that every body type (that is reasonably low in bodyfat) is viable. I also agree most climbers especially in the v6-v8 range are stronger than their grade. I just believe the relative vs absolute strength distinction is a missing nuance here.
Ohh now I see what you mean, yeah thats true. I think like you climbing is one of the "fairest" sports, since many different skills are used maybe someone who isnt as strong might be way more flexible and get the top. Having said that it's true that the only way i think climbing does favor a certain body type is usually on the weight aspect. But most people arent climbing for a living and thair true rival is their past self so I dont think its as important as just improving.
Nice point I didnt even stop to think about, thanks for bringing it up 😁
Ok, ok, I have strong finger strength, yes, but my finger endurance is 0. I only ever have one hard climb in me (V4). I'll concede that my technique is probably also severely lacking.
The good thing about being strong is that any improvement you do in technique is 10 fold, the bad thing is that you can default to that style of climbing very easily so its hard to control yourself and improve. Technique will give you more endurance since every individual move takes less out of you and that will compound session over session 😁
Playing music over your echoey voice is quite distracting.
Thanks for the tip my friend, noted for the next one!
climbing V5 with only about 75% body weight.....not sure what that means except maybe finger strength IS my problem
You are a Gem, my friend! With a little bit of consistent training you can keep your movement abilities improving while gaining strength at a solid pace
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing thanks! Only problem is my body weight is 185# of muscle, so it may take some harder finger strength training to work on that % body weight number. At 100% my fingers need to take the weight of many other people 125%. I feel like the weight factor isn’t spoke about much in these conversations, yet it has real influence on outcome
@@ryanfitzalan8634 Take it slow, your journey is yours alone. As long as you keep on improving a bit on strength and keep climbing like you have I don't see why you couldn't break into V6 soon! Lower grades especially need much less finger strength than most people think
I can barely hang 100% on 20mm, but i recently sent my first v5 (6c). I think strength might be handy in my case, but the working the shoulders really helped me. Great vid dude!
Yeah! Shoulders are incredible, I feel that they are the "Upper Body Hips". If you dont feel solid on them its hard to do much. Congrats on the V5! I do think that especially on lower grades people are way stronger than what what they need to be but its kind of bound to be that way since they have the least exposure to good technique. But all comes in time if you go at it!
180% body weight climbing V8/V9. Should be climbing v12ish
I wouldnt take it like the only truth but I do think there is clearly some correlation. Also if you think about it the people that this can benefit the most is beginners since they get strong fast but their movement skills lag behind. Keep on crushing it man!