Adam Ondra Introduces Top 5 Climbing Shoes by La Sportiva
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- It matters a LOT what you are wearing while you are climbing. ⚡ Climbing shoes affect your climbing style, flow and feeling for the footholds. It is important to consider not only that a bad shoe might create a bad climber but also the wrong shoe for certain climbing styles is far from ideal.
Check the next video about the top 5 climbing shoes by @LaSportivaYT that I recommend.
ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS❗
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
01:14 - Solution
02:34 - Solution Comp
03:52 - Futura
04:53 - Mantra
05:32 - Theory
07:26 - Climb World Tour by La Sportiva
07:53 - Stefano Ghisolfi (La Sportiva athlete) - @steghiso
08:28 - Jakob Schubert - @JakobSchubertClimbing
09:30 - Outro
Climbing shoes I use in this video: La Sportiva Solution:
www.lasportiva.com/alpencore/...
Get yourself amazed by beautiful pictures in my photobook - AO Photo Book:
eshop.adamondra.com/p-ao-book
Have you seen this video of mine ?!
• Adam Ondra #47: The Be...
Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
LA SPORTIVA
DIRECTED & EDITED BY
PAVEL KLEMENT
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
DOLOMITI MEDIA HOUSE
NUNATAK FILM
FILMED AT
HUDY CLIMBING GYM BRNO
KUMST CREATIVE HUB BRNO
ARCHIVE FOOTAGE
AO ARCHIVE
REEL ROCK
BIG UP PRODUCTIONS
BERNARDO GIMÉNEZ
PETR PAVLÍČEK
JAN ŠIMÁNEK
ENRICO VERONESE
PRODUCTION
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
JAN VERNER
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
© ADAM ONDRA 2023
Songlist
Tellent Studio - Skyfall
Vesper Tapes - Moving In Patterns
Audio Tape - Lantern Light
Young Presidents - Elements Of Time
#climbing #climbingshoes #rockclimbing #lasportiva
@LaSportivaYT @hudysportcz 
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Lots of comments were about the fact that downturn-aggressive shoes are painful. My own personal experience is that in the past, I climbed in rather flat climbing shoes like Miura or Katana, but I had to downsize them a lot (my performance size was 38.5 vs streetshoe is 44!). Now I am much more comfortable in downturn shoes that I don't downsize them as much (40 or 40.5), and in my experience, it works really well. I know, for the absolute majority of climbers downsizing by 3.5 sizes is still ridiculous, and I would never recommend it to any beginner or advanced climber. Overall It is true that for long vertical climbs, flat, rather stiff and slightly oversized (like Katana, for example) shoes end up being the most comfortable option. But for harder shorter climbs not necessarily the most performant option.
I got my solutions in 41 down from 44 street shoe and I easily could have gone all the way to 40. BMI has a big factor in foot volume I think and I am quite skinny. I definitely couldn't size up any higher than 41 without the shoe ending up baggy by this point. It's a really personal thing so it's really hard to advise others on downsizing, especially with how much the feet can get conditioned to the pressure of several downsizes that squeezes the entire foot surface area like a vacuum. I don't think 3.5-4 sizes down is necessarily extreme for some people depending on how hard they climb and how low their BMI is. I would never personally go beyond 4 downsizes, but with how my ability and foot conditioning are developing I can see 4 downsizes being my new norm.
Sadly, Sportiva makes the as "women's" marketed shoes only up to EU 42, which was 43 before!
I climb Sportiva shoes normally in -2,5 EU and due to my different foot sizes, that translates to 42/43 left/right foot. For example Solutions, Miura VS, Otaki Women's, etc.
BUT: Skwama and the old(!) yellow Katana VCS fit even hals a size larger than the other Sportiva climbing shoes, so there is 41,5/42,5.
There is now Skwama Women's, which fit my feet perfectly! The heel could still be a little less volume, but the rest is just perfect.
The shoe exists just up to 42... and that half a size down is really painfull! So, my pair of Skwama Women's in 41,5/42 are not my go to indoor climbing shoe, they come out just for special occasions. Which is quite never. I could kiss someones ass at Sportiva to make the "women's" models (stupid term, also the Skwama W have far less volume than the unisex, so LV would be correct) up to 43 again. Which they stopped completely. Why?
For example the Otaki is a very stiff shoe. It also has XS Edge rubber. With XS Grip 2 rubber, it is - for me - a much better shoe! And I'm heavy, so it is not like the women's models are up to 50kg anyways and for other people too soft. I cannot understand this.
But i suppose since they sell every climbing shoe and would sell more, if they produced more, they focus more on the best selling models and sizes, that the distributor doesn't sit on "exotic" sizes, which may never get sold until the rubber is bad.
Sad
The most important requisite is that the shoe fits your foot shape! La Sportiva tends to produce shoes for narrow feet. Go to climbing gyms and stores and try them! If you are a beginner, just use rental shoes until you find a pair that won't make you stop climbing because of too much pain! Some brands also have charts for their shoes on foot shape and shoe characteristics!
La Sportiva Testarossa, Miura VS, Theory, Mantra, Speedster are all great for wide feet actually. I have super wide feet by any standard and I have no problem fitting these shoes. I have way more problems fitting Evolv, five ten and Madrock in fact. Also scarpa only has the instinct and Veloce as wide options. For reference, my foot is 25 cm long and 11 cm wide, which is Extra wide by any standard. The D-tech in theory allows the shoe to adapt to a wider foot, same goes for the no edge shoes in general - there is no limit to how wide they can stretch since they dont have a fixed sole width. Instinct and Testarosa are built on the same last and when I compared the two, they have the same width and length ratio as well as volume. Miura VS is absolutely the widest shoe one the market without a single doubt, they are insanely wide. Either way, definetely avoid any and all offerings from evolv, five ten and madrock, even if they claim "high volume", its medium volume at best.
@@matakos22 Also worth mentioning that people with bunions tend to consider their feet wide but that tends to not be the case, at least not in the standard sense. Your feet are not wide but deformed and you need to look for shoe shape that accomodates the bunion, and wide shoes only sometimes fill that need.
Just to take away some confusion, wideness of the feet is only one of the features! It's also about the shape of the toes, the heels, the volume, a lot of factors! Usually the best way is just to go and try!
@@AllegraClimbingPsychologist Another point of confusion is that people *think* they have wide feet but never actually measured them. When it comes down to it, La Sportiva has the most models built on a wider last. I not only have climbed trough most of the popular platforms, but I also have been at a resole shop and took a look at the different lasts provided directly by manufacturers for particular model, and the top 3 widest ones were all from Sportiva, followerd by Scarpa instinct.
I have chunky feet (not wide, but massive) and katanas fit me well
Overall It is true that for long vertical climbs, flat, rather stiff and slightly oversized (like Katana, for example) shoes end up being the most comfortable option. But for harder shorter climbs not necessarily the most performant option. In general, 30 years ago, it was an absolute trend - extreme downsizing was pretty much the only option to have performant shoes. But modern climbing shoes do not require that due to better construction.
yeah Katana are incredibly comfortable to me even 3 size down
to everyone watching: please take this video with a grain of salt because obviously adam is sponsored by la sportiva
sure la sportiva shoes are really good shoes but there are definetly some downsides two and a lot of other brands you should consider as well:
-la sportiva shoes fit people with narrow feet much better
-la sportiva shoes especially are known for being quite high performance shoes and that comes with a high price tag, so if the grade you are currently at doesnt start with an 8 you will most likely not be able to utilse the full potential of these shoes
-la sportiva shoes are also not going to be the most long lasting, if used frequently they start to fall apart rather quickly
-keep in mind: pros often dont even use the regular models but have personalied ones made for them by their sponsors
and the best way to find the right climbing shoe for you is always to go to a store and start trying them on
Which shoe last the longest ? I’m beginner and would like a very strong one as I climb often and don’t want to buy new shoes often
@@Furansowakun stiffer shoes often last longer, especially beginner shoes that less technicals and more durable
@@Furansowakun personally I love my pair of Theory but in six months of hard climbing the sole is almost destroyed, even though they're amazing, they're also really hard to resole
@@Furansowakun In order or durability in La Sportiva catalog:
-Tarantula (I would advise against, low quality rubber and comfort)
-Finale VS (My top choice for beginners at indoor climbing)
-Mythos!! (My top choice for durability/crag/comfort. Can be not as comfy on narrow feet. They stretch A LOT, buy 2 sizes down)
-TC Pros (Ultra durable, ultra expensive, ultra specific.)
-Katana lace (Now we are getting on the high end stuff. Great at everything, very stiff and durable but not as comfortable. Not best choice to use as all round as beginner)
-Miura VS (Awesome durability, high end stiff shoes. High performance on vertical, low confort.)
TLDR: Go for the Finale VS if you only indoor climb or the Mythos if your feet are slightly wider or look for only comfort. Cheers:)
@@Furansowakun if you want to purchase fewer shoes, buy two at the same time and cycle them between sessions, using one pair in a session, rest day, other pair the next session, and another rest day means the shoes have three days to regain tension. Then, learn when to resole the shoe before digging into the rand.
As well, "stiff" shoes do not necessarily last longer. A stiffer rubber often can, but especially in modern commercial sets a stiffer rubber often means grating across holds and losing far more rubber. Being intentional with climbing is an easier way to conserve shoes, and getting a warmup off the wall will further help.
15 second ad comes up while watching youtube? exit the video. 10 minute ad by Adam Ondra? watch every second.
I had solution’s for a while but made the switch to futura’s and haven’t really looked back. I found smearing to be way easier with the futura’s. Great Video! I wish I had this back when I was first starting climbing
You forgot to mention MIURA, your truly favorite shoe that you have been wearing while making most of your hardest ascents.
Adam is wearing the Muira in this video. It's a great shoe.... But I'm old and change is hard. 😁
Yeah strange he didnt mention them...maybe Miura doesn't need as much advertising? I've got like 10 pairs so I dont need convincing lol
agreed. I honestly expected Miura to be in there
Probably because the shoe is getting revamped
Hi, it is true, it seems that I forgot Miura, but I did not mention them on purpose. I used to climb with them a ton in the past, it is a good all-round shoe and it is truly incredible for the year it was "born" in 1997, but I think there are shoes that perform much better in all the climbing styles that I used to use it for. Even though I used to use it for competitions, it is definitely stiff and not very sensitive for indoor footholds. It resulted in relatively many footslips in the past. It is good for edging outside, but for very vertical razorblades, Katana Laces (Woman) is better and for slightly overhanging, Solution is better.
It was great climbing with Miura's, but I am sure that with more modern climbing shoes you can take more advantage of your feet for every imaginable climbing style. Adam
As much as I appreciate the Brand, Adam saying he wouldnt do most of his hardest routes without them seems an unnecessary overstatment...
My 5.10s have been working great for more than a decade. Indoor and outdoor. But then again, i am just a weak amateur who climbs for fun... So the Idea of showcasing the models, allowing people like myself to try them is a great branding insight!
Thanks Adam, hopefully a new pair of Solutions will help me send this tricky V2 climb in my gym before it's reset.
V1 on my gym
@@adribier savage
Great informative video! It really helped me make an educated decision on which climbing shoe is best for me.
Thank you!
Amazing how detailed you explain every single shoe! Love it!
You realize this is an ad right?
For me, the best indoor Shoe is the La Sportiva Theory. Changed everything for me :) For Outdoor the Skwama and Solution ❤
My way to go is skwama, really comfortable for my weight, I'm skinny. Incredible changing in the climbing after 6 months with the vapor V from scarpa.
We need to try so much shoes for know what is the right one for you.
I have worn my vapor v's to absolute death after 13 months.. can't wait to get the solution comp!
@@The94Beanie solution I've tried, not sensitive, i Don't like it, maybe because i have a skin feet. Atm i'm in love with drago LV, incredibile shoes for my weight
I started climbing less than two years ago and I think it was the first time I bought something because the company sponsored someone I look up to. I got a great deal on a pair of Finale, without aggressively downsizing, and I couldn't be happier. I find they're great all-rounders and really comfortable. And I know some beginner climbers that made the mistake of getting small aggressive shoes as a first shoe and they just can't train as much because of the pain.
bless you adam ondra
The Theorys are quickly becoming my favourite climbing shoe after the OG Shamans. Love being able to throw a single pair of shoes into my pack when going to the mountains - they do it all really well
And this is what you call a great product placement. Absolute amazing job.
Adam climbed tons of very hard routes in the miura lace when he was very young. Dont really get why this shoe isnt even mentioned. For me the miura VS is also the greatest shoe for vertical rock climbing, especially on limestone. Very supportive and super percise. You dont need to feel stuff with it, you just stand on it.
it seems to me that shoes with laces are less and less popular... Honestly, I prefer them with laces than those with velcro
Love my VS. Just wish there was more rubber on the upper part of the toe :(
Because this video is obviously a La Sportiva climbing shoe ad. Therefore, just newer shoes get promoted + the all time flagship Solutions.
Not even the (new) Katana Lace for Granite. And no Miura, wether Lace nor VS. So, soft indoor style shoes only, normal Solutions beeing the stiffest one in the video.
@@fredericp64 Why? the toes are so much curled up, toe hooks would never stick more when there wozuld be more rubber on the top, because of the little surface area touching the hold. But with Miura VS you won't climb indoor toe hooky volumes anyway, so it absolutely doenst matter. They are a face climbing weapon only and where are toe hooks on a flatt wall? Right, nowhere.
@@philipppuchner1115 don't know what you're talking about. I boulder indoors and wish there was more rubber on top so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Thanks Adam!
Curious to try the Solution now, but I'll probably never give up my Katana's; they are the shoe that gives me the most confidence to pull through something tough
Adam you can do 10A if you goto Scarpa! 😏
Yeah he needs dragos
I love MIURA, one of the best climbing shoes out there
I like the mantra. Fits good to my feet, especially the heel. They'roe quiet comfy and work well for me. But you dont see them that often 😅
Low volume skwarmas are my go to, still perfect after 6 months of constant use, I have a wide flat foot with a narrow heel and they’re perfect
Yup! I'm a little dude with wide and flat feet too - this "women's" version is good for virtually anything, a nice middle ground on the stiffness-softness scale :) Pretty durable for an XS Grip 2 shoe!
I can't believe I just watched a 10 min long advertisement and enjoyed it that much. For me, my Scarpas are more comfortable in the toe section, but my La Sportivas fit better for heel hooks. Maybe downsizing would help, but I still need my feet for walking, so I am careful with that...
I like the Miura, although lacing up can be annoying especially when bouldering
Almost exclusively climbing indoors, switched from Skwama in different sizes to Theory and Mantra. Haven't looked back. Mantra most practical for indoor gyms, except for tough heel hooks, slips off too easily, then I pull out the Theory.
The theory is sooo soft and soo, so good. Only con is that if you smash your toes against a hold it hurts A LOT because it's so soft. But that's more of a skill-issue than a shoe-issue haha.
No skwama?😀 my favorite shoes
Scarpa has a great selection of intermediate shoes that are just perfect for your first 2 years of climbing.
Love the Theory! Would love it even more if the heel would be made with sticky black rubber and not that slippery yellow stuff ;)
I climb with the futura and i love it ! (still i should try the others shoes)
Not sure if anyone will see this, but it would be great to have a stiffer version of the standard solution for 90kg+ climbers. Similar to the idea of the womens version (identical construction), but designed to have the same properties for a higher weight bracket!
I agree!
I'm relatively flat footed. Tarantula's were amazing and got me to 6A. I switched to Otaki's now, but they hurt so damn much. Yes I can climb 6B but i'm actually looking at something that's more comfortable. Looking at La sportiva Zenith now.
Try katana lace! For me they hurt muuuuch less the the otakis but do have quite a bit of Performance
try tenaya, i had the same problem with sportivas they are stiff like wood, then i tried tenayas and it was a revelation, really comfortable from the first session, and only gets better while the time passes. They have a really nice upper that conforms to every foot without pressure points.
Try Ocun Strike. Similar to Tarantulas and the rubber of Ocun sticks better in my opinion. Have tried some shoes (bought, tried a bit then sold...) but I stayed with this.
Zenit is a pretty limiting shoe - super comfy but not very grippy and almost totally flat. I used them as a beginner and now warm up in them - not suitable for sending hard climbs though
Bought a Tarantula as a beginner 5 months ago. Just bought an Otaki. Found it uncomfy on the first session now got used to it. I like it. Now I'm keen to try something softer for slopers. Mantra?
I'm surprised he didn't mention the key difference between the solution and solution comp - the heel.
Tell me...!
Hi, I did not really mention the difference about the heelhook because it is very difficult to fit everything into one video, but I consider the stiffness more key difference. Heelhooks are different, and it is question of personal preference, and how you are used to it. Honestly, I can't really tell which heelhook I like the best. Adam
@@klemens4876 The heel on the solution comp is a softer, more traditional heel, very similar to the futura's _(as opposed to the iconic molded heel cup the original solution)._
Similar to the way soles work; softer rubber is more sensitive and sticky for iffy placements, stiffer rubber deforms less for pulling harder (at least in my experience, YMMV)
The toe patch is also larger, and I _believe_ the rubber is 0.5mm thinner. So the thinner sole and more malleable heel make for a generally softer shoe.
Again, though, this is all from my experience. Different people use climbing shoes differently.
So i’m wondering,
I started with average beginner shoes and now upgraded to solutions (downsized 3 sizes from regular)
After trying on different shoes i felt the solution had the nicest fit for my narrower heel
How do you deal with the different fit of the shoes?
I’m now looking at futura so that i still have good shoes for smearing
But i’m in doubt because most shoes don’t fit my heel
Would you recommend trying futura and also downsizing aggressively or would solution women be an option downsizing less aggressive and thus having more room for smearing
(I don’t mind having to be more precise with my feet)
Have fun at the crag!
I really like my Solutions but am keen to try Theory on hard boulder projects with very technical feet and tiny toe smears
I looove the katanas for ropes, personally. They edge like craaaaazy! 😁 But mad rocks drones fit too perfectly to not use them for bouldering 😆
I love "katana" for the comfort and "skwama" for precision ! La sportiva ❤
I'm one with the wall on my Miura VS's !
Nice!
been climbing with solution comps for years now. tried a few other options but for me it‘s in a completely different league
Adam how can you forget the miura? you used it on silence and la dura dura, and a lot of other climbs before 2014
Hi, it seems that I forgot Miura, but I did not mention them on purpose. I used to climb with them a ton in the past, it is a good all-round shoe and it is truly incredible for the year it was "born" in 1997, but I think there are shoes that perform much better in all the climbing styles that I used to use it for. Even though I used to use it for competitions, it is definitely stiff and not very sensitive for indoor footholds. It resulted in relatively many footslips in the past. It is good for edging outside, but for very vertical razorblades, Katana Laces (Woman) is better and for slightly overhanging, Solution is better.
it was great climbing with Miura's, but I am sure that with more modern climbing shoes you can take more advantage of your feet for every imaginable climbing style. Adam
Does the solution comp have a big difference in the heel vs regular solution? A lot of my friends claim it’s way better.
Ive got the geniuses and i use them for indoor climbing and theyre actually really good. i got them because i got an insane deal
I love adam
La Sportiva climbing shoes and the right shoe size! That is a special sience! I prefer Scarpa shoes ! :))
Would you guys plz give a suggestion for a shoe to a heavy climber like me with over 80kg, with a wide foot who need's comfortablity?
Also....
Where can i check the tourroute. I would like to know if it has a stop in switzerland?
I just sent my first v4 in rental shoes and I’m so ready for my own pair, but I’m unsure what to buy because my feet are huge. I wear a size 15, I usually downsize to 14 with the rentals but my feet are also super wide, would any of these sportivas be good for me? I was looking at the skarpa veloces…
Can the shoelaces of solution be made wider?
Otherwise, if it is stretched for a long time, it will easily break due to friction
Im currently on my third pair of the Kubo’s! Imo they are a great intermediate shoe to bridge the gap from cheap beginners to expensive high end performance. They use the P3 technology and give plenty of rubber on the upper toe-box for cheeky toe hooks while having a super secure heel for that precision and grip you want!
Theyre a great all around shoe that ive used to send everything from indoor slab, vertical, overhang, lead to outdoor sport.
Ever tried resoling?
@@AllegraClimbingPsychologist yup, first pair were far too gone to resole, but my second pair were sent out to be resoled while i got a 3rd to have a good rotation going to maximize longevity
The whole video misses the point in my opinion. If the shoe does not fit properly, then all the hocus pocus regarding the technology, stiffness, softness, No-Edge etc. is completely irrelevant. Actually, I found and find La Sportiva very good. However, the more advanced shoes for my very narrow feet (as a man) are often just too wide and I can not and do not want to buy the shoe so smaller, so I ultimately ended up with Red Chili. The Kubo from La Sportiva is actually really good here in its narrow fit, but also has its weaknesses and is for me still in the beginner's range - or a good all-round shoe. The Solution Comp would actually be the perfect shoe for me for bouldering, but is still too wide, so that the soft heel does not fit well. Any smaller would also not be possible, because he then no longer sits in the length. In the end, I now wear the Red Chili Voltage LV because it is simply narrower and offers me comparable qualities to the Solution Comp.
The fit is the central point, the rest is bonus. Who still believes today, he must ruin his feet / toes and joints with too small, ill-fitting shoes, is himself to blame.
As a promotional and informational video, though, it was quite nice. Only, what good is it to know what kind of shoes Ondra or Schubert wear, when both have completely different feet than I do? Right, nothing at all.
Wow cool video, but that's shoes for climbing on the natural rocks, can you do the video with best shoes for indoor climbing (not only indoor bouldering)? Or video about only bouldering shoes?
Hi, I would not really make much difference between indoor bouldering and indoor sport climbing. In general, the footholds are not extremely small in the gym, and I recommend to use softer shoes to train your toes, to have better sensitivity. I tend to use slightly stiffer shoes for sportclimbing because the hard indoor sport route usually rely on tricky heelhooks and I usually feel more confident heelhooking with slightly stiffer shoes like Solution Comp. If you usually climb on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain, the any noedge shoe is the way to go! They last longer. Adam
There was one US date listed on the World Tour....and it was 2100 miles away from me.
And happened weeks before this video.
It says its totally cancelled in the UK! 😂
Hey Adam really great video! I always love the way you speak about your climbing experience! Nevertheless I would appreciate more transparency on being sponsored by La Sportiva. I didn't catch any mention of it in the video or in the description💪
The whole thing is literally an advert for la sportiva!!
No recognition for Skwama😢 my absolute favourite and universal shoe especially if you have wider foot. I use it outdoors and indoors and it’s always great. Just sent it for another resoling 💪
Skwama is definitely great shoe too! I won World Championships 2016 in Skwamas! Also good thing is that they are wider than Solutions, so it is good option when your foot is wide!
@@AdamOndra wow thanks for your reply Adam. I hope to one day meet you in real life one the crag. Fingers crossed there are places that have 7b-7c next to 9c to make it happen 😂
@@AdamOndra
Yeah i wonder how they compare to other high perfermers from La Sportiva, Skwama are my first and only shoes so far, after climbing for few months (V5) (gym boulder only) and i love them, (88kg 191cm, regular 46/47 i use 44.5 skwamas) so i wanted bigger volume shoes for comfort so i am happy with them.
for future purchases (if i wanted to try something new) i wonder if skwama is more similar to sol. comp or theories style, what kind of shoes you replace your skwamas with and why you no longer use them? in my opinion only thing skwamas are missing is better smear so i am thinking of Theorys but not sure if they are too soft for my weight
Wildclimb!!!
im climbing in lasportiva but i think they miss a wider, stiff and performance model. My foot is wider than normal but nothing abnormal, i never had to buy specific shoes for any sport or everyday use, but i cant downsize my solutions by even half a number or my toes goes numb and lose every bit of sensitivity. I found the best fit ever in the Scarpa Instinct VSbut the way they place a stitching around the big finger dig in my flesh and after half a day i had to put them away, after washing them because were covered in blood. And still cant find the perfect shoe for me.
Honorable mention: Testarossa
For sure! Curious to hear why the exclusion
Taratula's are really comfortable for me but they just don't hold up. The sole started separation after 2 climbing sessions
Terrible shoes not maked by la sportiva for some reason. (Font: my seller)
Tarantulas are really good after you resole them with proper rubber.
@@Qadow good suggestion
If you want a shoe with similar feel to Tarantulas but a lot more durable and better rubber, try the TC Pros. I really like them as a neutral stiff shoe, especially for slabby climbs and crack outdoors, but also for non overhanging sport routes in general. Not the best for bouldering or overhanging stuff though.
@@qazaqwert TC Pro is almost double the price of Tarantulas. If you are begginer Tarantulas are safe purchase.
Did y’all notice Adam mono pocket that old bolt hole :45s in? 😅
I would like to see more models with S-heel technology. Only Otaki and Skwama can give me that almost no slip heel feel when heel hooking
I love the s-heel too! Why isn't it implemented in more models?
The overall shoe design is only one dimension of the shoe fit and function. Shoe fit is mostly driven by the last shape. There is no one size (model) fits all. There is no substitute for fit testing.
There are several distinct differences in peoples feet, with less overlap than is implied by shoe manufactures in the high performance models. In the toe region there is long big toe & long second toe with a fast big taper to little toe; flat across two toes & flat across three toes with very little taper to little toe (Roman foot), and there is long toed (phalanges) people and very short toes. Volume is a poor representation of these differences. When using a tight shoe, these differences really matter a lot if the toes are flat or bunched up. When you hear of someone that is wearing a shoe three sizes below their street size, they almost certainly have long phalanges and bunch their toes in the front volume. That shape shoe will likely not fit someone with flat short Roman toes.
In the heal there are obviously large and small volume heals and long and short A. tendons. If the heal is big, heal hooks and simple walking will be bad. If the heal is too small, the whole shoe will not fit right.
I would like to see more variety and transparency in foot/shoe last use across manufactures, with an emphasis in adding the Roman flat short toe and tight flexible heal, the opposite of the Theory and Drago models, but otherwise keeping with their shoe designs. Someday.
Must be the top 5 shoes by profitability….
I like to train with my Tarantulaces, its easy on the foot and forces better footwork; but climb with another brand.
I love the Mythos because I'm addicted to crack climbing
It's kind of funny how you get the notification that this video contains paid ads, but the whole video is nothing more than a 10min advertisement.
Best shoe for heavy climber (85kg) indoor ?
I'm a little lighter, but I have loved La Sportiva Otaki - comfortable, a bit wider, with a stiff, precise toe for edging.
I am 95 KG and I run the standard solution most of the time, but it's a significantly softer shoe than it was designed to be due to my weight (which is honestly not a bad thing for indoors). My backup is the Theory for comp style. For a really stiff shoe I use the Evolv phantom or Madrock drone (special order size 15 lol), but those are honestly pretty bad for indoor style in my opinion and I only use them occasionally outdoors. I love the idea of the mantra, but it's far too soft of a shoe for someone at my weight. For context I am 6'4, have climbed up to V10, and have probably tried 20 different climbing shoe types so far. TL;DR the standard solution.
I'm 85.5, i go solutions comp/instinct vs on moonboard and plastic in general, kataki/boostic outdoor.. each has pros and cons, you just need to start from one pair and then try out some other options
At 80kg, I bought the La Sportiva Kubos, and really love them. They are on the stiffer side, but I find that at my weight they smear just fine. They are not super aggressive either, and I don't have to remove them in between every bloc attempt. The toe and heel rubber is generous too.
I was on the fence between these and the Skwamas, but I think these offer a much greater comfort and still perform just fine.
The best la sportiva is a Scarpa Drago.
Adam,it ain't the shoes that gets you up those hard routes. It's being Ondra that does it.
I expected this video to represent Adams Top 5 climbing shoes (by La Sportiva, obviously, since he's been climbing them for so long). I would have been super curious about that. About which shoe adam chose for which climb and why.
But the video seems to be more about " The Top 5 Climbing Shoes La Sportiva wants to sell you" Text by LS, spoken by Adam
La Sportiva is great, I have some solutions myself. But Adam definitely would have done all his same hard projects had he not been wearing them. His phrasing at the end is just a bit weird to me, it gives almost more credit to the shoes than to him
Yeah, super cringe. Adam must have needed a down payment for a new house or something. They should update the records to show the FAs were done by La Sportiva with help from AO 😅
the huge problem with no edge shoes is the resole. They are more expensive at start and then the resole will take so much time and more money than the normal one... you need to have a sponsor to use it daily
Miura VS ❤
Best all-rounder for really heavy climbers (not those 75kg lightweights who act like being Bud Spencer) 😜
No review of the Katana or Miura? Seriously?
Yeah... look a lot like a Sportiva Commercial ! Yeah good shoes are nice, but maybe investing in your foot technique is more valuable...
anyone using Testarossa? looking for feedback
Where is the la sportiva miura
everyone's foot is different and you cannot expect a shoe that works for someone else to work for you. if the last doesn't match your foot, it won't work. period. forcing it will just hurt you.
Honestly this is my least favourite kind of video on your channel. It is basically a very long advertisement, and you have not been able to mention the Miura they don´t longer make, that you loved so much. I obviously accept it just because you are sponsored, and I think it is good that you are. Anyways, hope to see you climb next time.
Also, I don´t know if its scripted for you but saying things like you would not have sent your projects without La Sportiva makes it ridiculous in my eyes.
petition to get cobras in the top 5 pls
That's only one event in the USA. Please try to get a couple of more organized. Climbing shoe selection is so bad over here.
For Heavy climber :) ? 86Kg
haha, so that counterbalance Shawn's decision?
damn, testarossa getting no love. imo sportiva's best shoe
what do you use it for? in vertical (not overhanging) do you think is better the Katana ?
@@noiseforthealgorithm4668 it's my fav shoe for slightly to very overhanging limestone. it can stand on those little knobs super well. For vertical climbing, it's probably a little too downturned to be the best shoe for that
cool, but how to buy climbing shoes when there is no sizes at all lmao
Im team Scarpa
Very handsome man
Bro did not include shoe named after him 😂
Adam, you forgot the best soles in the business - Unparallel rules them all.
There isn't a best climbing shoe, but it would be the Geniuses
I do not accept climbing shoes with aggressive profile. Don't want to deform my toes or feet. More importantly climbing in uncomfortable shoes with constant pain takes away all the joy of this this sport.
I got my regular shoe size when buying climbing shoes, now i look like a balerina trying to push the toes as further as possible into the shoe :((((
I got a full size down lol, but I’m doing ok but there scarpa so not as small
remember to mute, when you watching Adam climbing
Scarpa and Tenaya are better though
MIURA
Adam checkout another climber joythi raj
Weird add
This is an ad
nah bro get a pair of scarpa dragos, la sportiva is doing nothing these few years on making better shoes